I'm wating for my 5k retina here, but is this a normal thing?
So long at Shanghai, and 2 times the same "departure scan" status?
Probably just the dock workers opening it up and putting fingerprints all over dat screen.
I'm wating for my 5k retina here, but is this a normal thing?
So long at Shanghai, and 2 times the same "departure scan" status?
Is it known what the 256 GB SSD is inside the 2014 Mac mini? Sandisk or Samsung or is it a lottery type of deal?
The one iFixit tore apart was an HGST.
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Mac+Mini+Late+2014+Teardown/30410
I'm close to buying a 5K iMac.
Uses: Hobby programming (XCode), web-surfing (lots of text reading), light Steam gaming (mostly Source & Blizzard games) but rare.
I am set on choosing the highest GPU solution (R9 M295X 4 GB GDDR5).
Questions:
1. Mistake to go with 3.5GHZ i5 (vs 4.0GHZ i7) ?
2. I'm considering 256GB Flash (free alternative). Or should I stick to default 1GB Fusion Drive? Noisy? Performance?
3. Any performance issues sticking with the default 8GB ram? (see uses above)
Always max out ram, especially if you don't usually upgrade when you don't have to.
The iMac is whisper quiet no matter what HDD you choose, I see no reason not to go with the larger fusion drive.
Processor probably isn't as important.
Any good benchmarks for the 4.0 retina out there? Looking for a new After Effects machine
Questions:
1. Mistake to go with 3.5GHZ i5 (vs 4.0GHZ i7) ?
2. I'm considering 256GB Flash (free alternative). Or should I stick to default 1GB Fusion Drive? Noisy? Performance?
3. Any performance issues sticking with the default 8GB ram? (see uses above)
I'm close to buying a 5K iMac.
Uses: Hobby programming (XCode), web-surfing (lots of text reading), light Steam gaming (mostly Source & Blizzard games) but rare.
I am set on choosing the highest GPU solution (R9 M295X 4 GB GDDR5).
Questions:
1. Mistake to go with 3.5GHZ i5 (vs 4.0GHZ i7) ?
2. I'm considering 256GB Flash (free alternative). Or should I stick to default 1GB Fusion Drive? Noisy? Performance?
3. Any performance issues sticking with the default 8GB ram? (see uses above)
Curious question about my iMac. Would it be possible to put a second disk in it later on? How does Apple do their Fusion drives in the iMac? Do they have some sort of double disk caddy that can hold both the normal 1TB/3TB HDD and the SSD, or is the SSD actually a chip that connects elsewhere and isn't a traditional SSD but just Flash chips?
When I ever do get around to replacing the HDD in this machine one day I'd love to just keep the HDD in it and add the SSD. Unless the caddy they use is an Apple only device you can't buy anywhere aftermarket. Would be neat if the Flash part was just a connector that could interface with those aftermarket Flash replacement kits they make for the Airs and Retina MBPs.
I'm close to buying a 5K iMac.
Uses: Hobby programming (XCode), web-surfing (lots of text reading), light Steam gaming (mostly Source & Blizzard games) but rare.
I am set on choosing the highest GPU solution (R9 M295X 4 GB GDDR5).
Questions:
1. Mistake to go with 3.5GHZ i5 (vs 4.0GHZ i7) ?
2. I'm considering 256GB Flash (free alternative). Or should I stick to default 1GB Fusion Drive? Noisy? Performance?
3. Any performance issues sticking with the default 8GB ram? (see uses above)
So it does have the components for just putting Flash in there and keeping the HDD as it is? I know OWC has kits for replacing the HDD that comes with the suction cups, all the tools and the adhesive to replace it with, but I wonder if they have a kit to install Flash, or at least a kit for getting inside sold separately.There's a PCIe SSD socket and a traditional hard drive in the case; the PCIe flash storage are at least on the outside identical to MBP PCIe SSDs so I think they're swappable. You're going to have to remove the screen, which is not an easy task, and cut through some adhesives, though.
So it does have the components for just putting Flash in there and keeping the HDD as it is? I know OWC has kits for replacing the HDD that comes with the suction cups, all the tools and the adhesive to replace it with, but I wonder if they have a kit to install Flash, or at least a kit for getting inside sold separately.
Not that I'm planning on doing it anytime soon. It really does look like a lot of fun work. Maybe sometime down the road. I just want to know my options. I might not even bother keeping the 1TB HDD and just replace it with a normal SSD at that point. Who knows.
Always max out ram, especially if you don't usually upgrade when you don't have to.
The iMac is whisper quiet no matter what HDD you choose, I see no reason not to go with the larger fusion drive.
Processor probably isn't as important.
I would agree with this, except, to say buy as much RAM as you can afford rather than max it out. I mean sure, bump up from the 2x4GB default, and go for 2x8GB for total 16GB. leaves you room to add 16GB more later (assuming 5K model has 4x regular so-dimm slots).
Do you really need 32GB straight away?
Unless it'd soldered of a pain in the ads to get at you should never pay apple for ram upgrades. Do it yourself for cheaper and sell off the old ram to offset the cost even more. 8 gig of sodimm still fetch 60-80 bucks easily.
If it was me, I'd definitely get the PCIe SSD without question. You can always get an external drive for more space. If you can afford it, I'd get the i7. If you feel it's unnecessary than don't get it.
1. No.
2. I went all flash. No regrets.
3. 8 will be good for 2 years.
Thanks for all the great replies!If you're willing to do the cutting and suction-cup screen removal, yadda yadda, the CPU is actual unsoldered, meaning it's trivial to replace (once you've gotten access to it.) So maxing the GPU (the thing you can't change) is the priority. Beyond that, I've always felt it's better to go all-flash because I don't want the chance of one part of my fusion drive dying, and I'd rather have the speed bump all the time rather than hit slowdowns now and then.
Why not print out a release form to make them deliver it no matter what? Do you have a place they could put it where it won't be stolen?Hnnnng, my Retina iMac was due to delivery at afternoon today, but the UPS guy came at 9.30 AM, when i wasn't at home
Why not print out a release form to make them deliver it no matter what? Do you have a place they could put it where it won't be stolen?
295X 4GBGPU, 4GHZ I7, 16GB ram, 512GB Flash (and a Trackpad as I already own a Magic Mouse + Super Drive).
Damn. That sucks. No trustworthy neighbor or anything? Hopefully you'll be home when they try again. Though I do know here in the US they also give you an option to hold it at the delivery hub so you can pick it up yourself if there's no chance of being home when they try.I'm from Berlin, when i would do that the Mac would be stolen in 2 minutes.
Damn. That sucks. No trustworthy neighbor or anything? Hopefully you'll be home when they try again. Though I do know here in the US they also give you an option to hold it at the delivery hub so you can pick it up yourself if there's no chance of being home when they try.
The markup on the i7 is disgusting, but the total price of the system is so high that upping the processor actually has pretty decent value when you are already committed to the iMac. Relative to the base setup, it's 10% more total cost, and it has at least 10% more performance from pure clockspeed advantage alone. I'm pretty sure I've seen from benchmarks that the additional features of i7 (more cache, hyperthreading) are especially good with compiling - up to something like 25% more speed - so if you're coding then the i7 is a great value on the Retina iMac.295X 4GBGPU, 4GHZ I7, 16GB ram, 512GB Flash (and a Trackpad as I already own a Magic Mouse + Super Drive).
Best Buy has the 2012 Mac Mini for $400. Good deal for a media machine under the TV? Seems like one.
So I got my 13" 2014 rMBP a few days ago, and I'm really enjoying it so far. The display is absurdly crisp, the battery life is pretty nuts coming from a 4 year old Lenovo that died in a few hours off the charger, and while I knew I would get along with OS X from spending some time with my sister's Air, I'm pretty surprised by how smooth of an experience the various features and gestures, like swiping to another desktop, two-finger right-clicking, and swiping to go back and forward, have made using this machine.
I am still a noob to OS X, so I wanted to pop in and ask if anyone had any tips or any recommended programs I should install on here.
What programs freak out with BTT? And what do you mean no difference? You have to add gestures yourself.A lot of people here recommend BetterTouchTool, but honestly I've never felt much of a difference except when a program freaks out when I'm using it and I have to disable it.
I am still a noob to OS X, so I wanted to pop in and ask if anyone had any tips or any recommended programs I should install on here.
What programs freak out with BTT? And what do you mean no difference? You have to add gestures yourself.
iStat Menus is awesome. I just bought it. So much information at a glance. I hope they add sidebar widgets. (If possible. I really hope widget support isn't limited only to App Store apps.)
Yeah, I think thats the one. I don't use mouse accelerators myself. I hate hate hate Windows' acceleration. Mac's just feels correct to me. It only took me a short few minutes to adjust 14 years ago when I switched but now whenever I go to try Windows I can't stand it.Sorry, misspoke. Not BTT, whatever the mouse acceleration changing application is. Smoothmouse?
Sorry, misspoke. Not BTT, whatever the mouse acceleration changing application is. Smoothmouse?
I need a UPS. In the fall it gets super windy and power gets knocked out periodically. I have way too many hard drives to risk killing some because of constant knockouts.
But I don't know which one to get. I need it to provide enough temporary power for my iMac and about 4-6 external hard drives. I also want it to be quiet. And if it has the ability to tell my computer to safely shut down if it looks like power won't be returning and possibly turn it back on when it does, even better.
I'm looking at NewEgg but I can't tell which ones are the ones I need.
If you can, see if you hear any sort of sound. Some of the ones I saw on NewEgg had complaints of a low buzzing sound which, in my quiet room, would be annoying as hell. The fan of the iMac is as loud as I want to hear at night when I'm trying to sleep. A buzzing would bug the shit out of me. The brand was APC I think, but they make like a few dozen different models. I just need one for a computer and a handful of HDDs.Haven't had any issues with the ones at work, I'll go check and see what they actually are.
It doesn't have answers to all your questions but it mentions the fact that it needs to be a sine-wave UPS:
Thanks. I will calculate when I get home. They don't need drivers though? Is the feature built into OS X or something?UPSes are rated for how many VA they support as well as the battery capacity. To figure out the VA draw of your gear, plug the wattage or current draw of the various AC power supplies into this calculator. Apple will list the iMac's somewhere, and the wall warts will do so for the HDDs.
Once you have found how many VAs you need, find some UPSes that offer that much.
I haven't used a Belkin or APC UPS that didn't talk to my Macs via USB, no driver needed (I think; memory fuzzy). Set your shutdown preferences in the Energy System pref.
Thanks. I will calculate when I get home. They don't need drivers though? Is the feature built into OS X or something?
OK, I must be stupid or something. Apple charges $200 for 16 GB of RAM (2 x 8 GB). Why do they charge $600 for 32 GB (4 x 8 GB)? It's not like they're using higher density RAM (2 x 16 GB). So 32 GB should be $400. Right? Or am I an idiot?
I don't actually need 32 GB. 16 GB is more than plenty to future-proof the system for me. I'm just wondering what the hell is going on.
No... It's totally just apple ripping people off. This has long been know. Always upgrade yourself if you can.Oh, wait, I think I realize my mistake. The $200 price is giving you credit for the 2 x 4 GB modules they get to keep if you order the 16 GB upgrade. So you have to pay full price for the additional 2 x 8 GB.
OK, I was (am) an idiot.
But man almost $15 (with shipping) for one key goddamn.
Could I have gotten this fixed cheaper?