Junior Mint
Member
Good to hear, thanks. I don't think I can go back down to 1280x800 or whatever the best for retina equivalent was on the 13" from the 1440x900 on my Air.
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Mac Hardware and Software |OT| - All things Macintosh
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Good to hear, thanks. I don't think I can go back down to 1280x800 or whatever the best for retina equivalent was on the 13" from the 1440x900 on my Air.
Yeah I was mostly just picking up a cheap computer for my father to use and I got a great deal on one for about 100 bucks so I just grabbed it. I haven't installed Yosemite yet but I did upgrade it all the way to Mavericks and I'll have to say its running pretty much without a hitch. Sometimes it can slow down because of the slow HD but I reckon I'll put a cheap SSD into it and he will be fine for some year at the very least. All he does is light browsing, facebook and some flash videos. Hilariously enough this older computer is a real step up from the one which broke which was newer but running one of those awful solo core celerons.
adamsappel
Member
This has started happening to me, also, on my iMac trackpad. I think it's an issue with Chrome.
The Real Abed
Perma-Junior
Go to an Apple Store and play with one. You can set the resolution easily to try it out. It's the best way to make sure you don't make a bad decision.
That said, with the Retina displays Apple's always going to default to a low setting. But at least Retina means you can easily go higher without losing the detail you would with a normal display.
I mean the default for the 15" rMBP is 1440x900. That's pretty goddamn low. It was low even on my 13" Air. The default for the 13" rMBP is 1280x800 which is even worse once you've tasted a higher resolution. (The 13" rMBP can go to 1680x1050 HiDPI which is much better than the default.)
Well for a while you could get 1680x1050 or whatever the res was as a hi-rez (I think antiglare as well) BTO option. Which is funny to me since that's the size of the 20" ACD I'm still rocking since 2004.
The Real Abed
Perma-Junior
Haha, me too. Yeah there was a High Res option for the 15". Thankfully Retina pretty much makes having two versions moot since you can now smoothly choose your own without losing any image quality anymore.
I also have a 20" ACD that has 1680x1050. I don't use it anymore since I got my iMac. For a few days however I had it hooked up to my iMac. But the difference in picture brightness and resolution was too much to bother anymore.
Just did some quick testing in Firefox and Safari, and I think you're right. It might just be related to Chrome.
Damn. Between this, Google removing support for NPAPI's, and slow ass gifs lately, Chrome has been really pissing me off.
I have an iMac with a 20" ACDhooked up to it. I love it.
Yeah I think the ACD tops out at 250 cd/m. And iMacs have been getting steadily brighter, probably to counter the glossy screen as much as anything else. Mactracker's last info on brightness is the mid-2010 models of iMacs with a 375 cd/m screen.
adamsappel
Member
Are you having any issues with cut-and-pasting? I can highlight text, but right-click doesn't bring up the typical options.
Nope, my copy/cut/paste is working properly.
sevenchaos
Banned
I seek advice.
My parents would like to replace their 2009 iMac with another iMac. They would like to get a 27 inch. I think the Retina isn't worth the extra few hundred dollars and I doubt they'd appreciate the display. Do you think now is a bad time to upgrade to a regular 27 inch?
My parents would like to replace their 2009 iMac with another iMac. They would like to get a 27 inch. I think the Retina isn't worth the extra few hundred dollars and I doubt they'd appreciate the display. Do you think now is a bad time to upgrade to a regular 27 inch?
Look at it this way: Assuming Apple keeps to the rollout design it used with the retina Macbook Pros, buying a non-retina 27" is only going to get worse in the future, because they're just going to drop the price but not upgrade the internals. So that might make getting refurb or used current model a better buy, or waiting a year and picking up the 2013 model, et al. the best option for you and your parents.
Hi, it seems like the time has come to upgrade my old black MacBook, battery has completely died, and I can't install the latest Yosemite and XCode versions.
I've been thinking to buy the base MacBook Pro Retina 13", the 256GB upgrade it's a bit expensive, any advice about this model?
Btw, I would like to get another battery for the old MacBook, but they are very expensive, any counterfeits alternative ?
I've been thinking to buy the base MacBook Pro Retina 13", the 256GB upgrade it's a bit expensive, any advice about this model?
Btw, I would like to get another battery for the old MacBook, but they are very expensive, any counterfeits alternative ?
aparisi2274
Member
Ok, this may sound like a weird question, but hopefully someone can help.
Can someone who has a late 2013 27" iMac, let me know what manufacturer Apple uses for its memory modules?
I am going to be getting a new 27" iMac for Christmas, and I am going to upgrade myself, and was trying to keep the memory manufacturer consistent with what they have pre-loaded.
I was looking at the crucial modules, which seem really good.
Thanks
Can someone who has a late 2013 27" iMac, let me know what manufacturer Apple uses for its memory modules?
I am going to be getting a new 27" iMac for Christmas, and I am going to upgrade myself, and was trying to keep the memory manufacturer consistent with what they have pre-loaded.
I was looking at the crucial modules, which seem really good.
Thanks
Crucial and OWC are solid for memory and have good returns policies. Hynix is another option.
Here's the advice I always give about "buying now" vs waiting for an update on hardware:
It's a gamble.
On the one hand, sure you may wait until update time and get more bang for your buck, updated processors, more ram, new design etc. you can sometimes win.
Other times you might "lose". For example I was waiting for an update to the iMacs in mid 2013, while the late 2012 had been out for like 9 months. I needed a computer and I have a few weeks until some announcement passed just in case (even "analysts" we're predicting an update). It never came so I just bought it.
A month or two later my model was updated. What happened? They introusced haswell architecture (unimportant for the large part for a desktop as the gains are mostly in low power usage) and they dropped the discrete graphics card for my model. Sure thrn in built is "comparable", but I always like the robustness of a discrete card.
In this way I sort of "won" by just getting what I needed. People should just consider the value of what is out now and the price. For people like yor parents, they'd never know any difference between current model and any processor or storage bump. Sure they may introduce new features that you'd miss out on but like I said that's the gamble. The best update I could see them doing is introducing fusion drive as standard.
Another thing about waiting is that it might not actually happen. I expected updates to come in October but only the retina surfaced. So if you were waiting then you'd still be waiting now. Another disadvantage is that here in NZ, the price of macs is dependent on the current exchange rate. When the retina dropped, it updated the prices of the entire Mac line and they all became more experience
Without actually changing. So at least here, it was a bad move to "wait".
Lastly, there are most definitely "bad" models or generations of macs. By getting anew update you CAN be a sort of early adopter for a new tech. Older ones have at least been out for 6-9 months and have a better chance at having issues surface and be known and ether corrected or reported.
Of course nothing is ever certain or 100%, but just things to consider.
Just get a reputable brand as others have pointed out. Hynix is one I've seen apple use but there are even "lots" of ram within a manufacturer and probably anything out of the allotment outside the ones apple purchase would be considered "non-apple" ram in tears anyway. But it doesn't matter. Just make sure you have the right type and keep them paired.
I think the slots in an iMac are alternating to pair, so just keep that in mind.
PhoncipleBone
Banned
About a week ago, my early 2009 iMac and every external drive attached to it died. Putting the drives in new enclosures fixed the issue with them, but the iMac would not turn on at all.
After taking it in to be inspected, the power supply was definitely shot, but they couldn't be sure if the logic board was fried too unless they got power to it.
Well, what a coincidence. A week before the computer died, Apple declared the model "vintage" and stopped shipping parts for it. So I would have to find another vendor for the power supply. So, I could have ordered a new power supply, get it installed, and have it work. Or maybe it would say that logic board was shot too and I was out the money of the labor to install the new PSU.
So I just said, "Fuck it!" and went to get a new computer today. Thank god for Best Buy no interest financing.
I went from a 2.6Ghz Core 2 Duo 24" iMac to a brand new 15" Retina MacBook pro. Damn this thing is fast. I am in love again.
After taking it in to be inspected, the power supply was definitely shot, but they couldn't be sure if the logic board was fried too unless they got power to it.
Well, what a coincidence. A week before the computer died, Apple declared the model "vintage" and stopped shipping parts for it. So I would have to find another vendor for the power supply. So, I could have ordered a new power supply, get it installed, and have it work. Or maybe it would say that logic board was shot too and I was out the money of the labor to install the new PSU.
So I just said, "Fuck it!" and went to get a new computer today. Thank god for Best Buy no interest financing.
I went from a 2.6Ghz Core 2 Duo 24" iMac to a brand new 15" Retina MacBook pro. Damn this thing is fast. I am in love again.
My old Core 2 Quad Windows desktop was really showing its age, so I finally decided to take the plunge. So, my first OSX machine will arrive January 5th, and will be a 13 inch rMBP with maxed out CPU/RAM and a 512GB SSD.
Changing OS with a 2000+ purchase is a bit scary, to be honest.
Changing OS with a 2000+ purchase is a bit scary, to be honest.
It's not like you're going to some obscure Unknown OS. Millions of users who are very happy and we're happy to help!
Napoleonthechimp
Member
The GPU on my late 2011 MBP finally died due to the same notorious defect that has caused many of the same model to suffer the same fate.
Rather than waste time with Apple I went ahead and got someone to solder on a new GPU using proper lead based solder, and not the crap stuff that Apple used (which apparently fails after a period of time).
After it is all done (I have to wait another week before it is sent back) I'll be £200 out of pocket because of Apple's poor design and manufacturing decisions.
Rather than waste time with Apple I went ahead and got someone to solder on a new GPU using proper lead based solder, and not the crap stuff that Apple used (which apparently fails after a period of time).
After it is all done (I have to wait another week before it is sent back) I'll be £200 out of pocket because of Apple's poor design and manufacturing decisions.
There's fairly good reasons not to use lead-based solders anymore...
Anyone help me decide, i have 3 options, the 2 mac configurations and prices listed below or wait...
Currently running a 2010 MBP, want to get a desktop, mainly going to use it for web design / programming (asp.net, c#, angularjs etc), general surfing and light gaming (Football Manager, locksmith 2014, civ v, sim city, maybe some wow or bioshock that sort of thing).
Option 1: 2013 27" iMac
£2,319.00
3.5GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7, Turbo Boost up to 3.9GHz
8GB 1600MHz DDR3 SDRAM - 2X4GB
512GB Flash Storage
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780M 4GB GDDR5
Apple Magic Mouse
Apple Wireless Keyboard (British) & User's Guide (English)
Accessory Kit
Option 2: Retina iMac 2014 27"
£2,639.00
4.0GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7, Turbo Boost up to 4.4GHz
8GB 1600MHz DDR3 SDRAM - 2x4GB
512GB Flash Storage
AMD Radeon R9 M295X 4GB GDDR5
Apple Magic Mouse
Apple Wireless Keyboard (British) & User's Guide (English)
Accessory Kit
Reasons for waiting: heard that the Retina iMac runs quite hot, would prefer nvidia graphics as they tend to run cooler? The 2013 iMac is seems like I'm paying top dollar for an already out of date machine, not sure when they might update the non-retina models?
Currently running a 2010 MBP, want to get a desktop, mainly going to use it for web design / programming (asp.net, c#, angularjs etc), general surfing and light gaming (Football Manager, locksmith 2014, civ v, sim city, maybe some wow or bioshock that sort of thing).
Option 1: 2013 27" iMac
£2,319.00
3.5GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7, Turbo Boost up to 3.9GHz
8GB 1600MHz DDR3 SDRAM - 2X4GB
512GB Flash Storage
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780M 4GB GDDR5
Apple Magic Mouse
Apple Wireless Keyboard (British) & User's Guide (English)
Accessory Kit
Option 2: Retina iMac 2014 27"
£2,639.00
4.0GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7, Turbo Boost up to 4.4GHz
8GB 1600MHz DDR3 SDRAM - 2x4GB
512GB Flash Storage
AMD Radeon R9 M295X 4GB GDDR5
Apple Magic Mouse
Apple Wireless Keyboard (British) & User's Guide (English)
Accessory Kit
Reasons for waiting: heard that the Retina iMac runs quite hot, would prefer nvidia graphics as they tend to run cooler? The 2013 iMac is seems like I'm paying top dollar for an already out of date machine, not sure when they might update the non-retina models?
Napoleonthechimp
Member
If they assembled it properly I wouldn't have to resort to paying someone to solder on a new GPU in the first place.
They are in all likelihood not going to update non-retina iMacs, but rather drop prices on retina and non-retina models, and phase the old models out over time like the Macbook Pros.
Mr. Wonderful
Member
Was this a problem strictly because of the soldering? (I experienced GPU failures 3 times because of it myself before I finally just stopped gaming on it).
It seems like dedicated laptop GPUs have always had quality control issues to one level or another. Maybe it's getting better with the increased focus on power efficiency, and therefore reduction in heat, but all the more reason to go high-end Intel for GPU if you don't need the dedicated GPU power.
Napoleonthechimp
Member
From what I've heard the eco friendly solder has been raised as a possible reason for GPU failures. In fact a bit of armchair research tells me it is a known issue in electronic manufacturing.
Here's an article from a couple of months ago about the 2011 MBP defects: http://www.theregister.co.uk/2014/10/29/apple_facing_class_action_over_broken_macbook_claims/
PhoncipleBone
Banned
Only a day of using a new Retina MBP, and I am questioning how I went so many years without having an SSD in my computer. It is just stoopid fast. Everything loads instantly.
Zeyphersan
Banned
Pretty much. I refuse to have any computer without an SSD now. My current gaming desktop has the OS on an SSD, and my next build is going to only use SSDs
On topic: I don't have any specific questions (yet) but it looks like I'll be getting my first MacBook (specifically a 13" rMBP) within the next couple days and I'm super excited! Been wanting a Mac for a while!
I guess, is there anything I should know about having a MacBook that's not "obvious"? I know the basics of the OS and everything
Not really, I don't think. If you want to save some money you can buy refurb and essentially get a new computer that way for $100-300 cheaper. RAM is not upgradeable, the SSD is.
PhoncipleBone
Banned
Turned on more of the gesture controls for the trackpad, including tap to click. God, it is so nice. I had been using the regular clicking on the pad on my wife's old MBP, but after turning on the tap to click and all the gestures for window dragging and right clicking, I cannot go back to using her computer. I will be fumbling around and confused.
Again, on my previous post: how did I go so many years without an SSD? I understand moving from a Core 2 Duo to a quad core i7, and 8GB to 16GB of RAM is going to make a difference, but the ridiculous load times, or lack thereof, for nearly everything on the SSD is so eye opening. Those few seconds waiting for applications to load or the minutes for the computer to boot on that old HDD seem like an eternity now.
Now I just need a brand new router to see what kind of speed increases that will bring to things.
Again, on my previous post: how did I go so many years without an SSD? I understand moving from a Core 2 Duo to a quad core i7, and 8GB to 16GB of RAM is going to make a difference, but the ridiculous load times, or lack thereof, for nearly everything on the SSD is so eye opening. Those few seconds waiting for applications to load or the minutes for the computer to boot on that old HDD seem like an eternity now.
Now I just need a brand new router to see what kind of speed increases that will bring to things.
I have gigabit internet and an AC router; my speedtests went from ~130mbps on my Macbook Air to 600+ on my MBPr.
twozerotwo
Member
GAF pls.
What the fuck is going on with my Mac?
You can't see it because of the screenshot but the mouse in the first pic is hovering over the wifi and the mouse in the second pic is hovering over the bluetooth.
I was using it fine for hours and just now I was about to shut it down for the night when I saw that happened when I was turning off the wifi. I shut it down once already and it did nothing.
What the fuck is going on with my Mac?
You can't see it because of the screenshot but the mouse in the first pic is hovering over the wifi and the mouse in the second pic is hovering over the bluetooth.
I was using it fine for hours and just now I was about to shut it down for the night when I saw that happened when I was turning off the wifi. I shut it down once already and it did nothing.
PhoncipleBone
Banned
I can't get AirPlay to work on my new computer. It always worked fine on my old iMac, and still works fine on my wife's older MacBook Pro and our iOS devices. I still have a second gen Apple TV. Is it not compatible with AirPlay on Yosemite?
Napoleonthechimp
Member
My MBP has now been fully repaired, with the GPU being confirmed as the main culprit.
charlemagne
Member
GAF pls.
What the fuck is going on with my Mac?
You can't see it because of the screenshot but the mouse in the first pic is hovering over the wifi and the mouse in the second pic is hovering over the bluetooth.
I was using it fine for hours and just now I was about to shut it down for the night when I saw that happened when I was turning off the wifi. I shut it down once already and it did nothing.
This happens to me sometimes too. Never figured out what it was.
My boss gave me a Macbook Air 13" for 2 weeks to play around with it. So far I'm really liking it. A lot of things are better than in Windows.
Is there a way to move a windows to the side and let it maximize to 50% of the screen? Windows has this nice feature for working with 2 windows side2side.
Like here:
Edit: Hyperdock is also nice. Well, I could get used to this. Maybe I will buy a Macbook Pro.
Is there a way to move a windows to the side and let it maximize to 50% of the screen? Windows has this nice feature for working with 2 windows side2side.
Like here:
Wow! This is awesome, thanks for the link. Any other recommendations for adding features that improve work flow?
Edit: Hyperdock is also nice. Well, I could get used to this. Maybe I will buy a Macbook Pro.
Well I just fucked up. Had my laptop sitting on a TV tray that has some shoddy legs on it, and I accidentally knocked it over, causing my laptop to slide off and hit the side of my desk. Didn't notice anything wrong until I saw a weird shadow near my USB port:
I probably wouldn't be as mad if I hadn't literally just paid off my laptop TODAY. It still functions okay, but whatever I put in there is now loose and slides around if I touch it. Is there any chance it could be fixed and not be hugely expensive? I looked up a tear down of the Macbook Pro, and it appears that the entire body of the laptop besides the bottom and components inside are one piece
I just don't want to bother with the Apple Store if it's anything more than a few hundred dollars.
I probably wouldn't be as mad if I hadn't literally just paid off my laptop TODAY. It still functions okay, but whatever I put in there is now loose and slides around if I touch it. Is there any chance it could be fixed and not be hugely expensive? I looked up a tear down of the Macbook Pro, and it appears that the entire body of the laptop besides the bottom and components inside are one piece
I just don't want to bother with the Apple Store if it's anything more than a few hundred dollars.The Real Abed
Perma-Junior
That's an interesting dent. How did the USB plug not break first? I guess the aluminum there is kind of thin.
Yeah, it's all one piece. It's kind of their big thing. Being able to manufacture a computer from one piece of aluminum is what they're good at.
Best you can do is take it in, explain the situation and see what they say. Is it still under warranty?
Yeah, it's all one piece. It's kind of their big thing. Being able to manufacture a computer from one piece of aluminum is what they're good at.
Best you can do is take it in, explain the situation and see what they say. Is it still under warranty?
anonymous_abc
Member
If the port still works, I would maybe attempt to very(!) lightly hammer it back into shape.
Assuming only the aluminium is out of whack.
Assuming only the aluminium is out of whack.
It is not under warranty. I never got Apple Care because I don't hardly take my laptop outside of the house and wasn't worried about it. Honestly not sure how that even happened. I had my mouse plugged into it, and when I picked the laptop up, it appeared to have hit more towards the top where the power plug was, but it did hit the ground at an angle, so I'm guessing the USB port got pushed upwards.
I guess I'll take it to Apple the holidays and just see what they say. I'm sure it will be ridiculously expensive to fix as they'll probably have to replace the entire top.
chronos4590
Member
Got a mid 2010 MBP. Looking to increase some performance in some form since I realuE its slugging at times badly and other times runs fairly well. I want it running better though before it gets worse. Looking into a SSD And maybe an increase of ram too but that can come a bit later. Any suggestions?
Cosmetic damage to top case is an entire top case and keyboard replacement usually. Any damage to ports can also be an entire logic board replacement as they can be soldered on.
That's officially speaking. For older machines and out of warranty it's usually not worth doing through authorised channels.
Aside from basic soft maintenance routines (various resets, clearing out space, permissions repairs and system volume checks etc), your general options are a reinstall of OS, or otherwise as you stated upgrade RAM and HD.
My parents came by today and dropped off some old computers for me to "deal with" (ie. sell on Craigslist).
I've got my old MacBook, an iBook G4, and an old iMac.
I want to get the data off of these things before wiping them and putting them up for sale, is there a better way to do this than dragging the HD over to my Time Capsule? I don't need the data on my current primary machine, just want it in storage.
I've got my old MacBook, an iBook G4, and an old iMac.
I want to get the data off of these things before wiping them and putting them up for sale, is there a better way to do this than dragging the HD over to my Time Capsule? I don't need the data on my current primary machine, just want it in storage.
The Real Abed
Perma-Junior
Either that or try target mode. But that might not be available at all since you might not have mutual ports between the machines that would support target. Might as well just copy them to the time capsule. Do you not have a spare USB HDD lying around to do it faster? How much data do you think you'd even have to save? And why don't you already have it? When I get a new machine I always migrate my files over. I haven't lost a file since 2001. (The last time I had a HDD crash without having a backup.)