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Magic: the Gathering - Oath o/t Gatewatch |OT| Look again, the mana is now diamonds!

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bigkrev

Member
I am about to start MTGO. Help me out here. Anything I need to know?

- I will have a monthly budget of around 20$
- I am fine with the idea of budget decks and pauper
- I do not know anything about drafting, and I do not think I will focus on it at all
- Something from my young days, but hey: I actually want to..open some boosters every now and then? is it a sin?

Opening packs on MTGO is basically lighting money on fire. There are 3 cards in Battle for Zendikar that are worth more than the value of the pack, for example. Commons and Uncommons of current sets are essentially valueless once they have been out for a week.

And yeah, play pauper. You can buy into just about any deck for around 50 dollars, and there are lots of overlap in money cards, and if you are willing to forgo Pyroblast and Hydroblast (I believe the 2 most expensive cards in the format), it gets even cheaper.
 

Angry Grimace

Two cannibals are eating a clown. One turns to the other and says "does something taste funny to you?"
Opening packs in real life is setting money on fire, just with the visceral thrill of cracking a pack.
 

Angry Grimace

Two cannibals are eating a clown. One turns to the other and says "does something taste funny to you?"
Bulk rares have at least a tiny amount of value in Paper, while bulk rares on MTGO could be worth less than a penny in some cases

Bulk rares have less value in real life than paper as far as I know. I don't even know who you could sell them to. IDK I've found paper bulk to be literally worthless as opposed to "almost worthless" on MTGO *shrug*
 

Crocodile

Member
Bulk rares have less value in real life than paper as far as I know. I don't even know who you could sell them to. IDK I've found paper bulk to be literally worthless as opposed to "almost worthless" on MTGO *shrug*

You can sell them en mass to vendors at GPs and local events. The greatest value of bulk rares though in in trade fodder.
 

bigkrev

Member
Bulk rares have less value in real life than paper as far as I know. I don't even know who you could sell them to. IDK I've found paper bulk to be literally worthless as opposed to "almost worthless" on MTGO *shrug*

If you show up to a GP, you can probably get 15-20 cents for bulk rares. Most online sites will give you 10 cents for bulk rares.
 
Bulk rares have less value in real life than paper as far as I know.

My experience is that in paper they're worth more on average but significantly less liquid (which contributes to the former -- if you want a Comet Storm online you can just instantly have it, but if you want it in paper you do have to find the person who decided to use real physical space holding copies of Comet Storm, and pay a teeny-tiny premium as a result.)
 

noquarter

Member
I am about to start MTGO. Help me out here. Anything I need to know?

- I will have a monthly budget of around 20$
- I am fine with the idea of budget decks and pauper
- I do not know anything about drafting, and I do not think I will focus on it at all
- Something from my young days, but hey: I actually want to..open some boosters every now and then? is it a sin?
I would look at getting a Momir Vig avatar. The games are different and something that you really can't do in paper. Pretty sure they go less than 20 tix, so your budget should be fine.

Also, try to find a place to get tix cheaper than the store. Sometimes you cam find people selling them for $.95. Doesn't save you a lot, but does save you some money.

There are also a ton of bots that give out commons and uncommons, look around for them. The MTGO Academy bit used to be pretty good, you could google the answer and get some cards for free.

Don't be afraid to spend time with the gold bordered cards. Don't recommend actually buying any extras, but spend time getting used to the controls in the training room with the gold cards before actually spending money.
 

V_Arnold

Member
Yes if you open current draft packs. Cause the moment they stop offering draft queues, it'll crater in value.

Opening packs on MTGO is basically lighting money on fire. There are 3 cards in Battle for Zendikar that are worth more than the value of the pack, for example. Commons and Uncommons of current sets are essentially valueless once they have been out for a week.

And yeah, play pauper. You can buy into just about any deck for around 50 dollars, and there are lots of overlap in money cards, and if you are willing to forgo Pyroblast and Hydroblast (I believe the 2 most expensive cards in the format), it gets even cheaper.

Here is my problem though: I am usually *very* undecisive when it comes to pack building.
In offline, I usually bought a display at the beginning of a set, and then based on what I got, I started thinking about potential decks and what I needed to get them. Obviously, that will be very hard to replicate online, but I need some sort of "oh snap, now I have a direction" thing. Or maybe Ill just look up cardlists and decide based on what I find fun :D
 

bigkrev

Member
Here is my problem though: I am usually *very* undecisive when it comes to pack building.
In offline, I usually bought a display at the beginning of a set, and then based on what I got, I started thinking about potential decks and what I needed to get them. Obviously, that will be very hard to replicate online, but I need some sort of "oh snap, now I have a direction" thing. Or maybe Ill just look up cardlists and decide based on what I find fun :D

You can usually buy a complete set for the cost of what a box costs in paper magic (around $100 after shipping). Some sets are less- Magic Origins minus Jace is about 50 dollars, Battle for Zendikar is about 70 dollars, Fate Reforged is about 35 dollars. The upside to buying complete sets is that you can, for $25, redeem a complete set for a paper version of sets.

If you are heartset on cracking boosters, Magic Online might not be a good idea for you TBH.
 

V_Arnold

Member
Yeah, I looked up the prices of rares, and you guys are right, it is very unwise to buy boosters since the rare's prices are so much lower in online than compared to paper (source: mtggoldfish), I was a bit suprised at some of the numbers you gave me.

I will have discipline and build up a collection of cards a non-randomized way then : )
 
Spoiler season approaches.

CcdOz8uUYAAfYeG.jpg


reddit said:
Brain in a Glass Jar 2
Artifact Rare
1, T: Put a charge counter on ~, you may cast an instant or sorcery spell with converted mana cost equal to the number of charge counters on ~ from your hand without paying its mana costs.
3, T: Remove X charge counters from ~: Scry X
 

noquarter

Member
Yeah, I looked up the prices of rares, and you guys are right, it is very unwise to buy boosters since the rare's prices are so much lower in online than compared to paper (source: mtggoldfish), I was a bit suprised at some of the numbers you gave me.

I will have discipline and build up a collection of cards a non-randomized way then : )
You can still occasionally randomly open packs, just make sure it is during a draft.

If you utilize the free cards from bots and the bots that buy commons and uncommons, you could start to get a collection for free, but you need to work at it. I started trying to do that and it didn't amount to much, think I got a cheap playset of something dumb for a brew I was working on, but it still helped.

And if you are playing limited, be honest to yourself about your ability. If you aren't that good, don't do the 8-4, you probably won't ever win a pack. Yes, 4-3-2-2 doesn't pay out as good, but you have a better chance of going 2-1 and getting 2 packs then of going 4-0 or 3-1. Plus, usually the people playing 8-4 are really good and the pool in the Swiss and 4-3-2-2 are not as good.
 

G.ZZZ

Member
It's sort of an aether vial for spells, slightly faster, but also slightly more expensive (it give you 1 net mana at the third activation, which is two turns after you play it, whereas vial give you parity 1 turn after you play it, and 1 mana advantage after two turns, but also can be played 1 turn sooner.).
Dunno the biggest problem i see with the card is that it's a card that let you cheat costs, which is great when you lock down the board, but on the other hand, when you lock down the board you don't wanna cast spells, you wanna play win conditions. It's an interesting and difficult to evaluate card, that's for sure.

EDIT: nah it's just bad.
 

ultron87

Member
It'd be more interesting if putting the counter on it was a "may". But then you could use it to cast the no mana cost spells so that'd probably cause something dumb to happen.
 

bigkrev

Member
[QUOTE="God's Beard!";197217790]Seems good with living end/restore balance

Edit: oh you have to put the counter? Boooo[/QUOTE]

Yeah, that is where I went first :(
 
[QUOTE="God's Beard!";197217790]Seems good with living end/restore balance

Edit: oh you have to put the counter? Boooo[/QUOTE]

I immediately did a card search to see if there was anything that could prevent counters from being put on permanents you control. Sadly, there are only cards that prevent counters going on creatures.

If they had only made putting the counter on be part of the cost, you could respond with something that pulled it off...
 

ultron87

Member
The charge counter even happens as part of the resolution of the ability, so you can't remove it with Power Conduit (or other things) in response to cast a 0 cost spell. Boooo, lol.
 
You will not be able to use your sideboard until game 3 of a Pro Tour Top 8 match
http://magic.wizards.com/en/article...o-tour-sunday-playoff-sideboarding-2016-03-01

Good change

There are two ways to look at this. If you compare the percentage of sideboarded and non-sideboarded games in Bo3 vs Bo5, it looks really out of whack:

Code:
                        Bo3     Bo5 (old)     Bo5 (new)
Maindeck Games (%)    1 (33%)    1 (20%)       2 (40%)
Sideboard Games (%)   2 (66%)    4 (80%)       3 (60%)

But think about it differently. What if you're playing a linear strategy that expects to win a significant percentage of maindeck games? Think about something like Dredge here. How many sideboarded games do you have to win in the old system vs the new?

Code:
                                          Bo3     Bo5 (old)     Bo5 (new)
Sideboarded Wins to Win Match (%)       1 (50%)    2 (50%)       1 (33%)

I think this change is fine for formats like Standard where the meta is a little tighter and sideboards are less impactful, but for something like Modern I don't really like it as much.
 

G.ZZZ

Member
There are two ways to look at this. If you compare the percentage of sideboarded and non-sideboarded games in Bo3 vs Bo5, it looks really out of whack:

Code:
                        Bo3     Bo5 (old)     Bo5 (new)
Maindeck Games (%)    1 (33%)    1 (20%)       2 (40%)
Sideboard Games (%)   2 (66%)    4 (80%)       3 (60%)

But think about it differently. What if you're playing a linear strategy that expects to win a significant percentage of maindeck games? Think about something like Dredge here. How many sideboarded games do you have to win in the old system vs the new?

Code:
                                          Bo3     Bo5 (old)     Bo5 (new)
Sideboarded Wins to Win Match (%)       1 (50%)    2 (50%)       1 (33%)

I think this change is fine for formats like Standard where the meta is a little tighter and sideboards are less impactful, but for something like Modern I don't really like it as much.

Same for me. I'd rather have two Bo3 and a decisive game with sb on if both players win one Bo3. Sorta like real sports.
 
Twist on some classic Legacy action I've been messing with:

Esper ReaniMentor

naya2flw9.png


So far it's been pretty fun. Being able to side into pure midrange or pure combo is pretty appealing. I'm not sold on the second dread return, maybe it should be an Animate Dead, not sure. I think I'd rather have AD than Exhume in this deck because I'm not always bringing back cards that win the game on their own and AD gets around flusterstorm pretty neatly.
 
But think about it differently. What if you're playing a linear strategy that expects to win a significant percentage of maindeck games? Think about something like Dredge here. How many sideboarded games do you have to win in the old system vs the new?

If you have a linear strategy that's 80% (or whatever) against your opponent's deck unsideboarded that should translate into a significant advantage. Under the old system there's a huge tilt away from decks that perform well pre-sideboard exclusively for the finals, whereas this approach preserves the relative worthiness of the decks more closely.
 
Hey guys - I am playing in a No Ban List Modern tournament tomorrow night, and would like some feedback on my list:

4 Deathrite Shaman
4 Stoneforge Mystic
1 Batterskull
1 Umezawa's Jitte
4 Birthing Pod
1 Spellskite
4 Green Sun's Zenith
1 Melira, Sylvok Outcast
1 Restoration Angel
1 Gaddock Teeg
1 Varolz the Scar-Striped
1 Reclamation Sage
1 Scavenging Ooze
4 Siege Rhino
3 Kitchen Finks
1 Anafenza, Kin-Tree Spirit
1 Viscera Seer
1 Bloodthrone Vampire
1 Murderous Redcap
1 Kataki, War's Wage
1 Ethersworn Canonist


3 Razorverge Thicket
4 Windswept Heath
1 Temple Garden
1 Overgrown Tomb
1 Godless Shrine
4 Verdant Catacombs
2 Marsh Flats
1 Dryad Arbor
3 Forest
1 Plains
1 Swamp



2 Trinisphere
2 Chalice of the Void
3 Ethersworn Canonist
1 Orzhov Pontiff
3 Aven Mindcensor
1 Kitchen Finks
1 Painter's Servant
1 Spirit of the Labyrinth
1 Aegis of the Gods

I'm expecting at least one Storm deck, one Elfball deck, and one or two other Birthing Pod decks; the rest of the field could be anything.

Any recommendations? I would also like to fit a Reveillark and an Eternal Witness in the maindeck; I'm considering taking out a Siege Rhino and a Kitchen Finks, but am open to other opinions.
 

DashReindeer

Lead Community Manager, Outpost Games
Well, I officially spent the most I ever have on a single card this weekend. Put in a ridiculously low Best Offer for a Moat not expecting them to take me up on it. Bear in mind that ridiculously low for a Moat is still way more than one should spend on a single card. Oh well, one step closer to completing my Legends collection. Still need to find a reasonably priced Chains of Mephistopheles and Nether Void.
 

bigkrev

Member
What would you take out for it? I'm not even convinced it would be that good in this deck, but I'm willing to hear it out.

It's more a "fundamentally, you shouldn't play your deck" post.
I wouldn't play anything other than a Skullclamp deck or a T2 combo deck like Burning Shoal or Storm if I was playing No Ban List Modern
 
[QUOTE="God's Beard!";197242031]What's the best No ban modern Stoneforge + Skullclamp deck, anyway? Elves or Fairies? Dredge? Affinity with Glimpse of Nature?[/QUOTE]
I'd be leaning hard to Fairies, if only because Bitterblossom+Skullclamp seems completely nuts.
 
And then watch as Reddit whines about it not existing despite this last Pro Tour being responsible for the Twin Ban/Eldrazi Hell.

I think everyone's been suitably chastened about that. (Also the original uproar came at a time when the level of Modern support overall was in doubt, which is definitely not true anymore.)
 
[QUOTE="God's Beard!";197242031]What's the best No ban modern Stoneforge + Skullclamp deck, anyway? Elves or Fairies? Dredge? Affinity with Glimpse of Nature?[/QUOTE]

I'm not sure I'd even bother with Stoneforge if I was full-on Skullclamp. I'd either go Elves with Glimpse or Delver with Young Pyromancer.
 

Angry Grimace

Two cannibals are eating a clown. One turns to the other and says "does something taste funny to you?"
[QUOTE="God's Beard!";197242031]What's the best No ban modern Stoneforge + Skullclamp deck, anyway? Elves or Fairies? Dredge? Affinity with Glimpse of Nature?[/QUOTE]

I doubt you really need Stoneforge. Elves is idiotic with Glimpse and Skullclamp. Either one of those and you're basically going off.
 
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