The Phantomnaut
Neo Member
That Nyko stick cost $500 too much.
Thanks to a certain benefactor, I am also getting my Hori Fighting Edge too!
Thanks to a certain benefactor, I am also getting my Hori Fighting Edge too!
heya markman is there anyway to get replacement screws for the top of a TE? One of the screws had the top part break off.
and I have no willpower so I'll probably getting a ps3 fighting edge (since its hori buttons and I dont want the mult-colors).
What is that bag mark?
Go to a hardware store with one of the other 6 screws. My TE had rusty screws so i went to a hardware store and bought 6 stainless steel scews with the hex gate key like the te scews.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to elegantly get rid of those two dead 24mm buttons on the top panel? I don't want to use hole plugs, I don't think they look good. Removing them would just leave holes. I'm happy with it right now, unless a better idea comes along.
NO.[Picture of coiled cord around Hori RAP]
NO.
Don't do that. Treat that cord with care because the part where the shielding connects to the stick WILL come out and your cord might undergo actual damage afterward.
That's some sexy art, Shao!
Who/what did you use to print the art out?
Just got a UPS notification stating that my PS3 Fighting EDGE will be here on Monday via Hori (USA). That was a bit earlier than I expected!
That is really awesome art shadowebb.
Wait, so the things will be here monday, or they will ship monday?
My girlfriend bought it as a gift, and she won't tell me when it ships. :/ lol
Wait, so the things will be here monday, or they will ship monday?
My girlfriend bought it as a gift, and she won't tell me when it ships. :/ lol
I mostly post my pics in the srk thread, but I thought I'd share my collection here. I'm feeling that iron fist template shaowebb. Aside from the usual, there's a couple of tek cases, a project giant sword, sapphire 8 arc, korean omni, norris arcade stick, and a painted foe hammer older diy case.
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I mostly post my pics in the srk thread, but I thought I'd share my collection here. I'm feeling that iron fist template shaowebb. Aside from the usual, there's a couple of tek cases, a project giant sword, sapphire 8 arc, korean omni, norris arcade stick, and a painted foe hammer older diy case.
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I mostly post my pics in the srk thread, but I thought I'd share my collection here. I'm feeling that iron fist template shaowebb. Aside from the usual, there's a couple of tek cases, a project giant sword, sapphire 8 arc, korean omni, norris arcade stick, and a painted foe hammer older diy case.
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As someone with experience with Korean sticks, would you say they have a higher or lower length below the mount compared to a Sanwa? I'm trying to find out if a Fanta will bottom out in a certain box when a Sanwa definitely already does.
It's the part where the cord shielding connects to the rubber stump that passes it through the case wall. It'll break off with wear. The actual PCB connection is further inside and that'll be fine, but it won't mean much when the cable is broken midway.So there is an issue with the cord being pulled out of the socket that connects it to the internal PCB?
I guess the coiling does tug on the connection.
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The playtech is to the left of the HRAP3. Given the size, you'd think it would be light, but it's heavier by a bit. The balltop is pretty cheap.
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A pleasant surprise was how ergonomic this layout is. It sound ridiculous, but having my left forearm perpendicular to the front edge of the box allows my hand to reach and maintain the bottom position on the stick. On other sticks, I have to change the angle of my wrist. This may also be because I play on the first 6, and not the last 6. The Playtech is about as long as the HRAP.
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Here's a shot of the stick, with all the debris that came off from mashing the bottom plate. It's a Sanwa clone. It has metal parts and quick disconnects, which is very surprising. I will keep it in there once I sand down the bottom panel.
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Bottom panel. You can see the two large weights, and the spot where the joystick rubbed. The raised button spots are there because the PCB is pressure sensitive, as you can see here....
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It has two harnesses. There isn't actually any solder spots on the pcb other than under those harnesses. I haven't decided if this will make it easier or tougher to switch out the buttons. Which are shitty, by the way.
Okay, now I'm a bit confused - I just got -another- UPS email on behalf of Hori USA. Different tracking number, ETA on this one is 6/27. I went back and checked the first email, and the status on it is still "Ready for pickup". Sounds like someone done goofed up.
It has two harnesses. There isn't actually any solder spots on the pcb other than under those harnesses. I haven't decided if this will make it easier or tougher to switch out the buttons. Which are shitty, by the way.
It looks like the buttons are of the rubber membrane variety - where pushing a button down bridges the traces on that larger PCB. If you intend to replace the buttons and keep the stock PCB, you would just chuck the larger PCB entirely and run the buttons directly into those wires that formerly ran into it (8 signal wires, and one ground, it looks like).
It might be worth just replacing the PCB with a Cthulhu or something, honestly.