Speaking of addictions...
Got all the latest QanBa/Eightarc stuff :X
Did they send you the stick Flash Metroid was using at CEO? That stick probably one the best looking sticks out there right now.
NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread
- Thread starter MarkMan
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Did they send you the stick Flash Metroid was using at CEO? That stick probably one the best looking sticks out there right now.
KingOfReading
Banned
I've got an issue with my arcade stick that I'm not too sure how to solve. The best thing a friend and I could think to do was hit up the guys in this thread to see if you knew how to fix it.
I've taken a picture of the stick's guts, and hopefully this helps.
http://i.imgur.com/goLgZ.jpg
During a regular game of Marvel 3, the light attack button just stopped working. After tinkering around with it for a while we realized that it just wasn't hitting the contact every time we would press the button. 90% of the time it would fail to register. We swapped out buttons and found out that there's definitely something wrong at the end of the wire, and not the button itself. I'm pretty sure the little plastic contacts I'm holding up need to be cut off, and new contacts need to be made. What do I do in order to do this?
If it's a matter of purchasing some things online, I'm in Japan, so any help on sites with international shipping or buying within Japan would be great.
If you need any more info, please let me know.
I've taken a picture of the stick's guts, and hopefully this helps.
http://i.imgur.com/goLgZ.jpg
During a regular game of Marvel 3, the light attack button just stopped working. After tinkering around with it for a while we realized that it just wasn't hitting the contact every time we would press the button. 90% of the time it would fail to register. We swapped out buttons and found out that there's definitely something wrong at the end of the wire, and not the button itself. I'm pretty sure the little plastic contacts I'm holding up need to be cut off, and new contacts need to be made. What do I do in order to do this?
If it's a matter of purchasing some things online, I'm in Japan, so any help on sites with international shipping or buying within Japan would be great.
If you need any more info, please let me know.
Maybe he doesn't have full control over his right hand for reasons I won't bother going in to on a message board?
Fair enough. If you're dealing with a disability, you gotta do what you gotta do to play.
StarCreator
Member
Those are quick disconnects - shoudn't be terribly hard to come by. If you're in Japan, I'd go with Akihabarashop.jp; I can't remember if they carry quick disconnects but they could at least point you in the right direction if they don't.
To be honest though, I wouldn't be so sure the quick disconnects are at fault. The wire itself or even the PCB at the other end are more likely points of failure, since you've ruled out the button. A simple continuity tester should tell you if the wire itself is still good.
ipitydatfu
Member
if all else fails, just strip the wire about 1/2 inch then wrap it through and around the buttons
its very ghetto, and not pretty. but it works
That crystal clear.
If you're confident that the problem is the connector, look for .110 quick disconnects. That's what they're called. I'm not sure where to find them in Japan though.
Speaking of addictions...
Got all the latest QanBa/Eightarc stuff :X
Is that the three eLivePros and Synthesis?
Also, saw on SRK that Hori is releasing. Compact 360 in the states...to add to the blue and black being released for PS3 in J-land. It is so cute:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086CTR12/?tag=neogaf0e-20
StarCreator
Member
Wow, that IS adorable. Might have to get one just because.
I'm not an addict, really
KingOfReading
Banned
As sucky and ghetto as it is, this is probably how I'm going to end up fixing this. I'll keep you guys updated on what does/doesn't work.
I'll check online for the disconnects though, just to be sure that that's the issue.
Thanks for all of the info.
Yeah, like the little pocket version...same EX nomenclature which sells it!
StarCreator
Member
A friend actually liked to use alligator clips instead of quick disconnects. Pretty much the same principle, except fastened by spring pressure rather than a simple hook.
You could also just solder the wire to the button directly, but the pitfalls of doing this is obvious.
I still advocate checking the wire itself with a continuity tester just to make sure that isn't the point of failure. Inspecting the PCB for cracks or other things that would break traces would also be a good idea.
Finally got done with my first fightstick project. Art came in today from Tek-Innovations.com and went right ahead on replacing the top.
At first, it was a regular MVC2 TE stick for the Xbox 360, but after dual modding it with a TE Kitty, replacing both the stick and buttons with new Sanwa parts (buttons are clear smoke), and getting a friend of mine to help me with the art, it is now a weapon worthy of getting me to Top 8 of UMVC3 at EVO 2012 (that or it might make me go 0-2... who knows!).
Project Alita: Link to Imgur Album
:')
At first, it was a regular MVC2 TE stick for the Xbox 360, but after dual modding it with a TE Kitty, replacing both the stick and buttons with new Sanwa parts (buttons are clear smoke), and getting a friend of mine to help me with the art, it is now a weapon worthy of getting me to Top 8 of UMVC3 at EVO 2012 (that or it might make me go 0-2... who knows!).
Project Alita: Link to Imgur Album
:')
The Phantomnaut
Neo Member
Oh yeah regarding the Omni stick, there are none in-stock until after EVO where there will be some news regarding it.
Stabby McSter
Member
Oh yeah regarding the Omni stick, there are none in-stock until after EVO where there will be some news regarding it.
DID YOU GET YOUR TOKKI STICKS YET
Does this have a PS3 version?
MarkMan
loves Arcade Sticks
yes.
The Phantomnaut
Neo Member
If there was a stick that allowed me to play as Toki in HnK well...
A lot of you are stick savvy, any advice on a joystick that seems to have trouble registering diagonals? I keep missing fireballs.
I stretched the spring a bit to make it stiffer, and it now has a bat top (although I was having problems with the ball top as well).
Anything I can do to make it more sensitive, and still have a tighter spring? (square gate Sanwa JLF btw) I didn't seem to have this problem on my previous, normal JLF stick.
I stretched the spring a bit to make it stiffer, and it now has a bat top (although I was having problems with the ball top as well).
Anything I can do to make it more sensitive, and still have a tighter spring? (square gate Sanwa JLF btw) I didn't seem to have this problem on my previous, normal JLF stick.
shaowebb
Member
Holy crap is that Batlle Angel Alita aka Gunnm?! Freakin' beautiful man. If only she was a character in a fighter...Panzer Kunst=Top Tier.
The Phantomnaut
Neo Member
Use another spring along with the JLF spring. Probably a Seimitsu LS-32.
Yeah I've been thinking of trying a Seimitsu stick. I think a couple people I know have them in their sticks. Gonna get a hold of them and try them out soon.
Best store in America is now www.focusattack.com . Not sure about their international shipping though :\
http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/ That's the best for Europe stuff afaik.
Got a picture? I'm not having any luck finding any detailed pics of the guts using Google image search. If it's similar to my HRAP 1, a Seimitsu LS-56 should drop in with no modification and stock mounting plate. Alternatively, a LS-32 can be mounted with a MS plate, and fitted with a shaft extender to give it enough clearance to be comfortably usable. Otherwise the plastic base would have to be modified pretty extensively.
Theonik
Member
Thank you both for the links, will look them over to see which is more convenient, both work out to roughly the same money due to how small it is.
Yeah,
Posting in a second. Any help will be appreciated. Kills me that I'm stuck with a sanwa in there. Hopefully there are now parts available.
So this is how it comes stock:
And the actual mounting plate:
Yeah, tried the 32 in there back when it was released, no go. Even bought a 32 based on the prior-released Futari stick...then got surprised ;-(
So, a 56 will just drop in?
Yes, a 56 will drop in with either the stock VF mounting plate, or the MS plate. (Just get a couple shorter screws.)
Crap, of course I can't find the thread where the guy modded his LS-32. It basically involved dremeling the plastic base of the stick in half horizontally in order to give the shaft enough height. The other option suggested was to use a LS-32 with one of the straight plates (VF or MS) and a shaft extender.
http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/products/LS-32-ShaftExtender.htm
So LS-56-01 is the one to go for? I'm guessing I need one of those cable connectors as well? The old sanwa stick is just hard-soldered. The old mounting screws won't work? And, finally, is the 56 a good shooter stick? It is not the Seimitsu stick that feels like a JLF, is it?
Thanks for detailing!
Either way, you're in for a solder job. Either attaching the 5-pin connector to the PCB, or soldering up the original wires to the LS-56 contacts. (My HRAP had the connector already, so it was plug-n-play.) Good luck.
The screws used to mount the JLF are long enough to go through the mounting bracket and the joystick base, so they'll hit the underside of the top panel if you try to use them to mount just a plate to the bracket. I actually used those same screws, and just doubled up spacers to give it a tight fit. As long as it holds together, it's good enough.
As for the stick itself, I've been putting it through its paces for the last few weeks with all sorts of games. It does throw a little longer than a 32 or a 40, but the engage is quick, and spring nice and stiff, so it gives you good control in shooters.
The new Seimitsu part that has a softer spring is the LS-58. I'd like to try that one out someday too.
StarCreator
Member
I wonder if this particular PCB is common ground. If not, no choice but to wire up each microswitch separately. (Also best not to order the version with the microswitches soldered to a PCB in this case, as you'd have to break the traces or swap out the microswitches entirely if so.)
Yes, good point. I'd go for the LS-56 in your case Yes Boss.
Ok,
Thanks both BOTEC and Starcreator.
I think I'll just go ahead with the LS-56.
I don't have any problem with a little soldering.
I'll be at MAK next week and will try to pick up the proper parts. If I need anything else then I'll order once I get back to the states.
Excited for the 56...all my other Seimitsu sticks are 32s and that is all I've ever used.
Thanks both BOTEC and Starcreator.
I think I'll just go ahead with the LS-56.
I don't have any problem with a little soldering.
I'll be at MAK next week and will try to pick up the proper parts. If I need anything else then I'll order once I get back to the states.
Excited for the 56...all my other Seimitsu sticks are 32s and that is all I've ever used.
I have a 32, a 40, and 56, and I can't even begin to pick a favorite. I love them all equally, even though they're all feel completely different from each other. Seimitsu 4 lyfe!
And of course I just found the SRK thread and blog post it links to:
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/hrap2-modding-guide-review.14430/page-4#post-980155
http://erwin1.blog64.fc2.com/blog-entry-14.html
Props to jdm714.
Have fun in Japan. I randomly found this site while looking at joystick porn:
http://ifs.nog.cc/pld.hp.infoseek.co.jp/map-e.html
Wow,
Cool stuff.
Seeing that HRAP 2 SA image with all Seimitsu stuff is pretty cool!
Don't think I'd ever change mine, though since it is all SA branded.
EDIT: (Whoops...looks like that is a HRAP SE...such a cool stick. Wish I had one)
I did order that Totatek Saturn-to-PS2 adapter _dementia showed in the pick-up thread a few months back and plan on using the HRAP 2 SA as my new Saturn stick. Gonna be Sanwa, though.
Thanks for the Akihabara link. Kinda going in blind to the place...looking around on July 4th, then shopping on the 5th. Got $1000 cash which should get me a few things. Going back at the end of July, for a second pass and to get another J-360 to take back to germany. Should be fun...last time I was in Tokyo was in the early eighties as a kid (!)
Cool stuff.
Seeing that HRAP 2 SA image with all Seimitsu stuff is pretty cool!
Don't think I'd ever change mine, though since it is all SA branded.
EDIT: (Whoops...looks like that is a HRAP SE...such a cool stick. Wish I had one)
I did order that Totatek Saturn-to-PS2 adapter _dementia showed in the pick-up thread a few months back and plan on using the HRAP 2 SA as my new Saturn stick. Gonna be Sanwa, though.
Thanks for the Akihabara link. Kinda going in blind to the place...looking around on July 4th, then shopping on the 5th. Got $1000 cash which should get me a few things. Going back at the end of July, for a second pass and to get another J-360 to take back to germany. Should be fun...last time I was in Tokyo was in the early eighties as a kid (!)
About that ToToTek, a minor technical issue I've come across. The L1 and R1 buttons are mapped as C and Z respectively on the Saturn side, making L2/R2 Saturn's L/R. This makes sense on paper, but some Saturn games (X-men COTA, X-men VS SF, etc.) don't allow for the L/R buttons to be re-mapped. That means that you're going to potentially loose your HK button on the HRAP 2 SA. I actually had to rewire my HRAP 1 a tiny bit to make L2(L) into R1(Z) in order to use it effectively with Saturn stuff. On the flip side, all PSX games I've tried allow for any button to be remapped, so my crazy new button layout still works with all the PSX stuff after some option editing.
Same with Dreamcast. The adapter I have (EMS Total Control 2) maps L1 and R1 onto L/R, with L2/R2 being lost to the ether. I would swap the R2 and L1 on your HRAP 2 SA just in case to make it adapter proof.
y2kenjination
Member
Finally finished my stick, even though I've barely even touched fighting games in the past year 
Almost wondering if it would look better with a pink bezel...Eh, not going to spend anymore time or effort on it. -_-;
Almost wondering if it would look better with a pink bezel...Eh, not going to spend anymore time or effort on it. -_-;
Auskeek,
I've got two of those. Both new. Lemme know if you want the second one. I don't think I need two anymore. I'd be willing to ship it to Australia...probably for $160 delivered from Ca, USA.
SegaManAU
Gold Member
$180 for the stick plus another $100 shipping.
Was pretty expensive but I wanted this stick so badly I was willing to get ripped off.
Jump on it, Auskeek! Great pricing...wish you told me earlier. =(
You would probably have to get that joystick from an import shop IF they're carrying it at all.... I think the VF5 stick is a Hori Store exclusive.
Right now, the release is scheduled only for Japan and (later) the US.
Probably the Japanese version is going to be cheaper to get your hands on if you're in the Pacific rim in New Zealand/Australia/thereabouts...
The shipping costs from the US or Asia to the US are outrageous...
Shadaloo is another option (don't have the website URL on me).
I think they're in Denmark/Netherlands. They're smaller than arcadeshop.de (Germany) and more Sanwa-centric but they carry LS-32's and a few Seimitsu buttons if I remember correctly.
GremlinSolutions (UK; URL not on me) is another choice. They're more Sanwa-centric, too (sorry, that's the way it is worldwide) but can get the Seimitsu parts (access to the whole catalog) but it might take awhile depending on what's in-stock (even Akihabarashop customers generally have to wait on parts).
I had no issues with their customer service of either Gremlin Solutions or Shadaloo. Took me a while to get my order (2-3 weeks) but I'm in the US.
Hot damn, I would have pounced on this hard if I hadn't already bought a stick last month. Thanks for the very generous offer though
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