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NeoGAF Timepiece Thread Of Fine Wristwatches

T

TimeEffect

Member
Hey WatchGAF, I am new, but have really grown fond of clockwork.

I want a classy watch that at minimum tells time, but I'd like one that tells the date too.

I am in love with Tourbillon, but I'm expecting that to be vastly out of my budget. What's a good watch for $300 or less? (I will take any recommendation of any price, but realistically can't afford something super expensive)
 
M

maxheadwound

Member
ThyMusicMan said:
There's Some great looking watches on here wow ..
I just bought a Citizen Men's Watch Chronograph BL5380-58E.. My First "nicer" watch , it'll be here tomorrow
BL5380-58EA-600x600.jpg


This is a very nice looking watch... hope it arrives soon
Click to expand...
 
G

GalacticSushiman

Member
TimeEffect said:
Hey WatchGAF, I am new, but have really grown fond of clockwork.

I want a classy watch that at minimum tells time, but I'd like one that tells the date too.

I am in love with Tourbillon, but I'm expecting that to be vastly out of my budget. What's a good watch for $300 or less? (I will take any recommendation of any price, but realistically can't afford something super expensive)
Click to expand...

You can get very inexpensive tourbillon if you look to China, if not you need to accumulate $40k to get a JLC which is cheapest swiss made :).
I personally own a Montiek with Seagull Tourbillon and I am very satisfied with it, the cheapest are probably from Minorva (although their design is really not satisfying to me) and should go for 700-800 minimum. A montiek is around $2k.

5 years ago when those Chinese companies started crafting tourbillon, you could have found one for as cheap as 200-300, but not anymore, sorry.
 
Death Dealer

Death Dealer

Member
TimeEffect said:
What's a good watch for $300 or less? (I will take any recommendation of any price, but realistically can't afford something super expensive)
Click to expand...

There are thousands of watches in that price range. Hard to make a recommendation without at least knowing what style of watch you're looking for. I'll just say in that price range, if you want automatic movement, Seiko and Orient will likely be your best bet.
 
E

Enron

Banned
Death Dealer said:
One thing you should know about the SKX00 divers, I've read the metal bracelets are lightweight and rattle prone. I think they have folded end links. The stock monster bracelets are better. So I ordered my 007 on a rubber strap (which sucks by the way) and got an aftermarket oyster bracelet with solid end links from an HK watch modder named Yobokies. It's really sharp and makes the watch look even better.
Click to expand...

I can vouch for Yobokies. I too bought the aftermarket oyster bracelet from him and was pretty pleased with it for my old SKX031. His bracelet links actually have screws instead of pin + collars! Big plus IMO. The bracelet that came with my 031 was absolute garbage. When you buy an SKX series diver, the first thing you do is buy a strap or aftermarket bracelet for it and throw the stock one directly in the garbage.
 
P

PjotrStroganov

Member
Death Dealer said:
That's what I have, an SKX007. At first, it seemed pretty big and chunky, but not comically huge or anything, like some of those 47mm Panerai watches. And it seems slim in comparison to a Monster.

For a modern diving watch, I think its 42mm size is considered about average. But that depends on your wrist size. Mine are 7". If you have small wrists, like 6", Seiko makes a watch that looks identical to an SKX007 but reduced in size , the SKX013.

But if you have average size wrists, the 42mm is not too large at all. I actually tried on a Rolex Sub Date after wearing the Seiko for a while and the Rolex at 40mm seemed slightly small. But I have an Orient dress watch that is 40.5mm and it's perfectly sized not small at all, so you have to account for the style of watch and the shape of the case and lugs etc. Some watches wear smaller or larger than their size would indicate.

One thing you should know about the SKX00 divers, I've read the metal bracelets are lightweight and rattle prone. I think they have folded end links. The stock monster bracelets are better. So I ordered my 007 on a rubber strap (which sucks by the way) and got an aftermarket oyster bracelet with solid end links from an HK watch modder named Yobokies. It's really sharp and makes the watch look even better.

All together, it's a fantastic watch. One of the best values out there.




I don't think they're being discontinued. At most, they might change the nomenclature, but it will be the same watch. They've been making these style of divers for about 40 years. The latest monsters got the new movement. And they are already putting the 4R16 movement into some Seiko 5s that cost less than a 007. So I think it's only a matter of time before the SKX00 line gets the updated movement too.
But like I said earlier, I don't think hand winding or hacking are must have features in a dive watch anyways.
Click to expand...

My current quartz Seiko is 42 mm and it fits perfectly on my 7 inch tree trunk of a wrist;) So it's nice know this will probably be the perfect size for me.

Yobokies' price seems to be a bit steep compared to the watch. Of all modded bracelets it does seem to fit the 007 the best though. A trusted ebay seller called wjean28 also has some attractive and a bit less expensive bracelets. As luck would have it a fellow countryman of mine who is an absolute Seiko and Monster nut sells (modded) watches and bracelets for great prices. Most of his watches come without a box or papers though, so I plan to get a cheaper boxed one from creationwatches and the bracelet from Monsterwatches. That's just me being anal about stuff. As far as I understand from the description, the oyster bracelets seem to be the same as those on wjean28's store for an even lower price.

After this one I will really stop buying watches. Really. Really...
 
T

TimeEffect

Member
GalacticSushiman said:
You can get very inexpensive tourbillon if you look to China, if not you need to accumulate $40k to get a JLC which is cheapest swiss made :).
I personally own a Montiek with Seagull Tourbillon and I am very satisfied with it, the cheapest are probably from Minorva (although their design is really not satisfying to me) and should go for 700-800 minimum. A montiek is around $2k.

5 years ago when those Chinese companies started crafting tourbillon, you could have found one for as cheap as 200-300, but not anymore, sorry.
Click to expand...

JLC is what I like, but geez, $40K lol.

Now I wish I had a better career path, these watches are amazing.

Why did the Chinese products stop?


Death Dealer said:
There are thousands of watches in that price range. Hard to make a recommendation without at least knowing what style of watch you're looking for. I'll just say in that price range, if you want automatic movement, Seiko and Orient will likely be your best bet.
Click to expand...

Hard to say what I'm into, recommend me anything.

Generally, I'd love a tourbillon, but if that's too much, something mechanical where I can see the machinery moving/ticking. It just looks so beautiful.

I didn't know wind-up watches were still a thing, how does that work/how long do those last?

I'd like a watch that can also tell me the date, but I dont care for something like the moon phase. Black is what I prefer, with the classical time design to cover the whole border of the watch (circular design).

Not sure what else to say, but I really wouldn't mind looking at anything reasonably priced, with the tourbillon/mechanical components visible. Oh, and I assume most these watches are waterproof
 
B

Brera

Banned
I'm still waiting for my Seamaster Pro to get back from a service and stem repair! It's been broken 4 months and been away for a month. It's been on my wrist every day for 4 years, so strange without it :-(
 
J

Jason's Ultimatum

Member
Brera said:
I'm still waiting for my Seamaster Pro to get back from a service and stem repair! It's been broken 4 months and been away for a month. It's been on my wrist every day for 4 years, so strange without it :-(
Click to expand...

Which SMP? How much are you being charged?

I'm seriously debating for the now whether to go used quartz or auto. If I get an auto, it's going to be the older Bond SMP watch, which I think released in 2004? The ONLY way I'm going to buy an auto of the 2531 is if it has been serviced in the past 2-3 years, because that's an old ass watch. I can't afford to spend $300-$400 to get it serviced.

But is there way not to spend that much to get it serviced? I've read sometimes you only need a one or two things cleaned up that won't cost $400.
 
Death Dealer

Death Dealer

Member
TimeEffect said:
Hard to say what I'm into, recommend me anything.

Generally, I'd love a tourbillon, but if that's too much, something mechanical where I can see the machinery moving/ticking. It just looks so beautiful.

I didn't know wind-up watches were still a thing, how does that work/how long do those last?
Click to expand...

There are 2 main types of watches.
Quartz -which runs off a battery

And mechanical watches which get their energy from a spring under tension.

Of the mechanical watches, there are two types:

Automatics - which have a rotor that uses the kinetic energy of the wearer to wind the mainspring, some autos can also be hand wound.

Manual wind - mechanical watches which are not automatic. They HAVE to be wound by hand.

The power reserve is the measurement of how many hours a watch can run after being fully wound. It varies, but usually even really cheap watches will have a 36 hour power reserve. So in theory, you could take it off one night, let it take the next day off, and the morning after it should still be running.


This watch might work for you. It's got an opening on the dial so you can see the escapement working. They call it an "open heart".

http://orientwatchusa.com/fdb08004b


I have a Bambino. Similar to the Esteem model except with a date window vs open heart. And it's got a domed crystal and pie pan shaped dial, kind of retro 60's.
http://orientwatchusa.com/er24004b


Another choice could be the Vintage. It's got a sapphire crystal and power reserve meter on the front, and unlike the Esteem, it shows the movement from the underside of the watch. They call that a display back case.

http://orientwatchusa.com/mens/classic-watches/ffd0f002b

All of those are available for substantially less than MSRP. Orient is a good value for the money.
 
G

GalacticSushiman

Member
TimeEffect said:
JLC is what I like, but geez, $40K lol.

Now I wish I had a better career path, these watches are amazing.

Why did the Chinese products stop?




Hard to say what I'm into, recommend me anything.

Generally, I'd love a tourbillon, but if that's too much, something mechanical where I can see the machinery moving/ticking. It just looks so beautiful.

I didn't know wind-up watches were still a thing, how does that work/how long do those last?

I'd like a watch that can also tell me the date, but I dont care for something like the moon phase. Black is what I prefer, with the classical time design to cover the whole border of the watch (circular design).

Not sure what else to say, but I really wouldn't mind looking at anything reasonably priced, with the tourbillon/mechanical components visible. Oh, and I assume most these watches are waterproof
Click to expand...

The chinese kept on producing tourbillon, but the price went up as the movement was tested and shown great reliability - my watch is still within a minute with my phone after up to 2 weeks.

There are 2 types of mechanical watch, automatic (usually with a rotor which moves with your wrist), or winding, which require you to wind the crown. The power reserve is usually between 30 and 40h, so if you do it everyday, you will be alright (I do it before storing it).

Owing to your requirements, I think a Seiko is definitely the way to go, and if you just like to see the movement you can look at skeleton watches, they are in your budget if you go quartz.

Edit: and I fully agree with deathdealer, if you want to go mechanical, Orient is an excellent choice.
 
Death Dealer

Death Dealer

Member
PjotrStroganov said:
As far as I understand from the description, the oyster bracelets seem to be the same as those on wjean28's store for an even lower price.
Click to expand...

I don't know about that webstore you linked to but regarding wjean's bracelets, from what I hear, it's the same actual bracelet that yobokies sells, I think most of those sellers source them from the same place. Where they differ is the end links and clasps.

Yobokies has the reputation for the best fit on his solid end links. I believe he manufacturers them himself. Also he sells them with a signed Seiko clasp. Which is nice because it looks like a stock bracelet. But yeah he isn't cheap. I think I paid about $100 with shipping for the bracelet.

Edit: Ok, it looks like that place monster watches sells them with the signed clasp too. 60 Euro. About what I paid from yobokies. Either way you go, it's worth upgrading from the stock bracelet for an SKX.
 
Death Dealer

Death Dealer

Member
Jason's Ultimatum said:
Guys, any advice on my previous post?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't spend that money on a quartz SMP. It's a compromise, I would regret. Not nearly as cool as an auto IMO.


Regarding servicing, I hear going to Omega themselves is expensive. You need to find an independent watch maker. I think a lot of them will service a simple 3 hand, non-chronograph movement for like $100 or so. But that's just what I've heard.
 
G

GalacticSushiman

Member
Death Dealer said:
I wouldn't spend that money on a quartz SMP. It's a compromise, I would regret. Not nearly as cool as an auto IMO.


Regarding servicing, I hear going to Omega themselves is expensive. You need to find an independent watch maker. I think a lot of them will service a simple 3 hand, non-chronograph movement for like $100 or so. But that's just what I've heard.
Click to expand...

Agreed, from the moment you want to spend more than $1000, I would only look into mecanical, just as a principle, especially if it's a watch you mean to keep for long.

(the only exception maybe for women, the quartz Cartier still rules :))
 
J

Jason's Ultimatum

Member
I'm just a bit nervous to spend that much for an auto when it's going to cost hundreds of dollars to get it serviced in 6 months to a year or two.

What about jewelers like Mayors or Jareds? Do they do watch serving? Spending a $100 would be awesome.
 
P

Pilgor

Member
Jason's Ultimatum said:
I'm just a bit nervous to spend that much for an auto when it's going to cost hundreds of dollars to get it serviced in 6 months to a year or two.

What about jewelers like Mayors or Jareds? Do they do watch serving? Spending a $100 would be awesome.
Click to expand...

Expensive watches are expensive to maintain. A good automatic watch should be cleaned every 5 years, with a professional cleaning costing around $400. Getting a watch serviced by the manufacturer is fine, but significantly more expensive.
 
T

TimeEffect

Member
Death Dealer said:
There are 2 main types of watches.
Quartz -which runs off a battery

And mechanical watches which get their energy from a spring under tension.

Of the mechanical watches, there are two types:

Automatics - which have a rotor that uses the kinetic energy of the wearer to wind the mainspring, some autos can also be hand wound.

Manual wind - mechanical watches which are not automatic. They HAVE to be wound by hand.

The power reserve is the measurement of how many hours a watch can run after being fully wound. It varies, but usually even really cheap watches will have a 36 hour power reserve. So in theory, you could take it off one night, let it take the next day off, and the morning after it should still be running.


This watch might work for you. It's got an opening on the dial so you can see the escapement working. They call it an "open heart".

http://orientwatchusa.com/fdb08004b


I have a Bambino. Similar to the Esteem model except with a date window vs open heart. And it's got a domed crystal and pie pan shaped dial, kind of retro 60's.
http://orientwatchusa.com/er24004b


Another choice could be the Vintage. It's got a sapphire crystal and power reserve meter on the front, and unlike the Esteem, it shows the movement from the underside of the watch. They call that a display back case.

http://orientwatchusa.com/mens/classic-watches/ffd0f002b

All of those are available for substantially less than MSRP. Orient is a good value for the money.
Click to expand...

GalacticSushiman said:
The chinese kept on producing tourbillon, but the price went up as the movement was tested and shown great reliability - my watch is still within a minute with my phone after up to 2 weeks.

There are 2 types of mechanical watch, automatic (usually with a rotor which moves with your wrist), or winding, which require you to wind the crown. The power reserve is usually between 30 and 40h, so if you do it everyday, you will be alright (I do it before storing it).

Owing to your requirements, I think a Seiko is definitely the way to go, and if you just like to see the movement you can look at skeleton watches, they are in your budget if you go quartz.

Edit: and I fully agree with deathdealer, if you want to go mechanical, Orient is an excellent choice.
Click to expand...


Thanks guys!!

The Orient Esteem is BEAUTIFUL.

That's the kind of watch I'm looking for-- sleek, simple, and shows off the skeleton. Is there anything like this which additionally shows the date? I assume this is waterproof?

If you guys have anymore, please feel free to post. I believe I prefer open-heart, automatic mechanical watches. I'm still adamant on a Tourbillon viewing if possible, leather straps preferably

Edit: Oh my goodness, these watches glow in the dark? :O
 
J

Jason's Ultimatum

Member
GalacticSushiman said:
FYI, a SPM Pro on WUS for $2.2k right now
Click to expand...

Chrono? Yuck. I don't like chrono. Don't care for the functions, and I'd like to see the large second hand move.

A 2531 was sold for $1950 on WUS. 90-95% condition, but those watches are pretty damn old.

This 2220 was sold for $2200:

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f29/sold-mint-omega-smp-2220-80-co-axial-$2200-807715.html

I've read with the co-axial, you don't have service watches for about 10 years. I guess I can wait and save more money and hopefully find someone selling one for $2,000. Would take another month or two.

The reason why I was thinking quartz is because the watch wouldn't be my only one watch for the rest of my life. God willing I find a career, I'd either sell the quartz or just buy a new Omega.

Or I can just buy a different brand new for around $1600-$1800. Don't know what dive watches are out there for my 6 inch wrists. I'd like to stay 41.5x12. Anything higher is a no-go.
 
N

nakedsushi

Member
Pilgor said:
Expensive watches are expensive to maintain. A good automatic watch should be cleaned every 5 years, with a professional cleaning costing around $400. Getting a watch serviced by the manufacturer is fine, but significantly more expensive.
Click to expand...

Really? My local watch guy cleaned and repaired a mechanical Omega that was running fast for $75. He did a great job too. He used to work at Seiko a long time ago.
 
E

Enron

Banned
Death Dealer said:
You need to find an independent watchmaker.

I don't think many jewelers, especially common chain stores found in malls, service watches anymore.
Click to expand...

I asked Mayor's if they serviced Omegas once back when i was in college and didn't know much about watches. Was trying to get my dad's old Constellation brought back to life. The guy told me they just send them to the Omega repair center.
 
Death Dealer

Death Dealer

Member
Enron said:
I asked Mayor's if they serviced Omegas once back when i was in college and didn't know much about watches. Was trying to get my dad's old Constellation brought back to life. The guy told me they just send them to the Omega repair center.
Click to expand...


Yeah it's a special skill. I guess back in the day, every jewelry shop typically had someone that worked on watches, but now they just send them to out of state repair centers.


But I think most cities with a population over a million probably have an independent watchmaker. I know there is one in my town. Although I haven't needed to use him for anything yet. None of my autos are that old. Although I want to acquire a vintage 70's "6138" Seiko chronograph, that will probably need servicing before I wear it.
 
T

TimeEffect

Member
Opinions, GAF?


Orient Esteem
-- Classic, and simple, but lacks date tracking

db08004b.jpg


PERIGAUM MENS MULTI FUNCTION AUTOMATIC WHITE DIAL WATCH P-1117-RW
--Has all the features of the Orient, though I'd like black if possible

51Ync6vGUJL._SY445_.jpg


Really digging #2. Is the Perigaum brand any good compared to Orient? Any other similar recommendations?

Love the Semi-Skeleton look, but are there more complicated skeleton models (I understand tourbillon is too expensive, but any other buzz words I can google?) Is "5 ATM" a good waterproof level? Is it a good idea to buy any of this from Ebay? I am looking at an eBay selection, would very much like to get it. I presume it should fit on my wrist properly..
 
T

thesoapster

Member
Jason's Ultimatum said:
I've read with the co-axial, you don't have service watches for about 10 years. I guess I can wait and save more money and hopefully find someone selling one for $2,000. Would take another month or two.

The reason why I was thinking quartz is because the watch wouldn't be my only one watch for the rest of my life. God willing I find a career, I'd either sell the quartz or just buy a new Omega.
Click to expand...

When I bought mine the jeweler said it's around 7 years. Honestly I think if you get a "cool" watch automatic is just much nicer to look at.
 
R

radios shipping overview

Member
TimeEffect said:
Really? :/ Thought it was French.

It's retailing for about the same price as the Orient
Click to expand...

There's a lot of Chinese-run brands that are made to sound European, and European brands that use cheap Chinese movements.

Seiko, Citizen, and Orient offer excellent value for the money. Chances are the Chinese watch will be nowhere near the quality of the Orient.
 
Death Dealer

Death Dealer

Member
TimeEffect said:
Really digging #2. Is the Perigaum brand any good compared to Orient? Any other similar recommendations?


Love the Semi-Skeleton look, but are there more complicated skeleton models (I understand tourbillon is too expensive, but any other buzz words I can google?) Is "5 ATM" a good waterproof level? Is it a good idea to buy any of this from Ebay? I am looking at an eBay selection, would very much like to get it. I presume it should fit on my wrist properly..
Click to expand...





I had never heard of it, but a quick search through the www.watchuseek.com forums told me it's a brand to be avoided. Shady warranty, many owners reported watches with obvious cosmetic flaws, and the movements seem to be unreliable. I'll try and think of other budget minded suggestions now that you've really narrowed it down.

This explains water resistance ratings. 5 ATM is good enough for everyday use.

http://deloachwatchservice.com/other_stuff/water_resistancy.htm

There are several well known internet watch dealers. I can recommend both Long Island Watch and Creation Watches. But there are others too. I check ebay from time to time, and don't find a lot of good deals on new, but inexpensive watches. But there are good seller on there for other kinds of watches. Used speedmasters from Japan for example.



I've been wanting to get a Chinese tourbillon too. Not a Sea Gull brand, because they're not cheap. But a reputable watch case assembler that uses the Sea Gull tourbillon movement.

Perpetual sells a Blancpain style flying 1 minute tourbillon for under $1000. Classy.
tourbillon_T_04b2.jpg



http://www.perpetual-watch.com/tourbillon.html


The Breguet type tourbillon (the original classic style of tourbillon) with Sea Gull movement costs about $1700.
http://www.perpetual-watch.com/Tourbillon2.html

The Breguet type is supposed to be inherently more durable. They're both really cool. As someone said earlier, a luxury Swiss watch with a tourbillon is at least $40,000.

It's like getting a V-12 engine car for the price of an I-4.
 
T

TimeEffect

Member
^ Thanks fellas, $1700 is way out of my budget though, lol.

I'll stick with Orient, but, do they make watches with both open-heart and date-tracking meters? I cannot seem to find one that is both Open heart and that tracks the day

So, to narrow it down:

Orient, or any other high quality brand
Open Heart
Exhibition caseback
Automatic (with windup option)
Tracks the date (don't care for the month, but preferably tracks the date)
Leather/non-steel strap
 
G

GalacticSushiman

Member
Honestly if you are to buy a tourbillon for more than a $1000, Montiek offers a much more refined case and design and at least includes a Seagull.

If it's about seeing the movement the Orient is probably the best value for money, sacrificing the date for that value proposition is your best shot :)
 
T

TimeEffect

Member
GalacticSushiman said:
Honestly if you are to buy a tourbillon for more than a $1000, Montiek offers a much more refined case and design and at least includes a Seagull.

If it's about seeing the movement the Orient is probably the best value for money, sacrificing the date for that value proposition is your best shot :)
Click to expand...

So you cant get both date and open heart, right?

It seems Tourbillon watches are way out of my league, so I'll stick to Orient level brands.
 
I

iamblades

Member
TimeEffect said:
So you cant get both date and open heart, right?

It seems Tourbillon watches are way out of my league, so I'll stick to Orient level brands.
Click to expand...

You can get an open watch with a date function, just not the traditional date window type, because the date wheel would block the view. they can always add an extra dial and hand. Of course that clutters the appearance of the watch(especially in combination with additional complications like month day moonphase or chronograph features), which is why the date window is used where possible instead.

I don't know of any watch that fits everything you want in your price range though.

Edit: I found this

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008NX1EIS/
 
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