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NeoGAF Timepiece Thread Of Fine Wristwatches

BrettWeir

Member
Beautiful watch.

For my 30th I am either getting a Pelagos or SubC no-date. Was dead set on the Pelagos, but got some inheritance money recently that makes the Rolex possible.

Now just have to decide if I want to put up with all the judgement and "is it real?" questions that come with wearing a Rolex. I go back and forth all the time and may just have my wife surprise me.

Thank you!

Both are gorgeous watches. I've always wanted a Sub until the Pelagos came out. It has so many things that fit what I want over what a Sub is. Just a personal preference.

Good luck with your hunt and wear it in good health!
 
New watch!

C9iZrbg.jpg
 
So much money spent on an eta movement.

Never have understood this logic.

Sure, in-house movements are great but is there an other industry where making things "in-house" is viewed as so important? What is the practical advantage? ETA movements are accurate, reliable and CHEAP to service.

Rolex makes all their Steel and Gold for the watches, but what value does that add?? It's cool but not particularly advantageous to you or I.
 
I just think that if you're going to buy an expensive watch and your family and friends asks why you spent so much money on a watch, there should be a reason.

You can get a Planet Ocean 8500 for a few hundred dollars more that has an in-house movement (co-axial). Even cheaper for a used one on the market.

My grail and one and only watch is either an Aqua Terra or Bond Seamaster 300m. Even though I own a watch that's 42mm x 13mm, I just can't get over thickness of the PO and the size in general of a PO. 42mm is my max, but I'd rather have a 40mm watch, so the AT 2500, may just have to suffice. Plus, I don't like the teak look of the new AT models.

Or I'd like to get an Explorer 1, though I find Rolex's clasps ugly.
 
I just think that if you're going to buy an expensive watch and your family and friends asks why you spent so much money on a watch, there should be a reason.

You can get a Planet Ocean 8500 for a few hundred dollars more that has an in-house movement (co-axial). Even cheaper for a used one on the market.

My grail and one and only watch is either an Aqua Terra or Bond Seamaster 300m. Even though I own a watch that's 42mm x 13mm, I just can't get over thickness of the PO and the size in general of a PO. 42mm is my max, but I'd rather have a 40mm watch, so the AT 2500, may just have to suffice. Plus, I don't like the teak look of the new AT models.

Or I'd like to get an Explorer 1, though I find Rolex's clasps ugly.

At the end of the day, the worth of an item is determined by what people are willing to pay for it.

But I do agree, if you drop $4K on a watch that you better have your reasons for doing so. An in-house movement may make you feel better, but its not actually doing anything for you other than making the ownership costs of your watch higher. And, most Rolex/Tudor watches have closed backs, so you wouldn't even know what movement was inside without opening the case back.

There are many other reasons to drop a couple thousand on a watch, such as:

- Finishing (Pelagos is essentially a Rolex with ETA movement)
- Materials (Pelagos is titanium with ceramic bezel)
- Prestige/brand history (independent from in-house components)
- Design innovation (see Pelagos clasp)
- Durability/reliability
- Servicing cost
- Lume performance
- Legibility

I think the Pelagos scores high on all of these. If you want a Sub with in-house movement, you are going to pay at least double.
 
I don't like the snow flake hands or the dial in general. The Black Bay is damn gorgeous, though. Dial is simply clean and easy to read, and reminds a me a bit of the Seamaster 300m. The BB isn't thick by no means, either. Only 10mm, which is pretty thin, which I like.

I just think the Tudor should knock off a grand, and it'd be a pretty great deal.
 

BrettWeir

Member
Meh. I'm perfectly happy with an overhauled ETA. I almost prefer it. When it comes service time, I will send my Rolex in, and it will cost a small fortune. Getting my Tudor serviced will be a lot less hefty on the wallet. Sorry, but to me....a movement alone is not worth the $4k extra it would have cost me to get into a Sub.

I mean, sure it's not COSC, but right now, it's running +2/day.

Different strokes for different folks.
 
How much does it cost for a basic service from Rolex? Or what about an independent watchmaker? I think Omega costs $500 and some change, but really, if you put away $5 a month for 10 years, which doesn't seem that far off due to co axial, you'd have plenty enough to pay for servicing.

I wouldn't mind getting a Black Bay, but the second hand prices are insane. I wouldn't pay more than $2400.

EDIT-Actually, I don't mind the snow flake hands, but it just looks better on the BB.
 
How much does it cost for a basic service from Rolex? Or what about an independent watchmaker? I think Omega costs $500 and some change, but really, if you put away $5 a month for 10 years, which doesn't seem that far off due to co axial, you'd have plenty enough to pay for servicing.

I wouldn't mind getting a Black Bay, but the second hand prices are insane. I wouldn't pay more than $2400.

EDIT-Actually, I don't mind the snow flake hands, but it just looks better on the BB.

Don't have a Rolex (yet), but have heard it is about $700 for basic service on a new-ish Sub. On older/vintage pieces (like BrettWeir's Pepsi GMT) the number can get real big, real fast.
 

BrettWeir

Member
How much does it cost for a basic service from Rolex? Or what about an independent watchmaker? I think Omega costs $500 and some change, but really, if you put away $5 a month for 10 years, which doesn't seem that far off due to co axial, you'd have plenty enough to pay for servicing.

I wouldn't mind getting a Black Bay, but the second hand prices are insane. I wouldn't pay more than $2400.

EDIT-Actually, I don't mind the snow flake hands, but it just looks better on the BB.

Minimum is $700, plus the $45 shipping.

An ETA service is around $100 from any decent watchmaker. I know a few, and their work is phenomenal.

I've seen a few BB's go for around what your saying, on Watchrecon.

It took me a LONG time to like Snowflake hands. A friend purchased a vintage Tudor 94110, and I fell in love with them.

MaizeRage listed everything that made me fall in love with the Pelagos. But honestly, my main reason, was because of the pointed crown guards. I absolutely LOVE them on my GMT, and know it's a very rare thing to have on them. The Pelagos is a complete homage to that, which I love.


Very cool Cereal Killer. Congrats again!
 
I love simple dials on dive watches, and I do prefer the circles over the boxed indices:



edit-and it'd cost $100 to service a black bay from an independent repairer?

You just get a better overall package with the seamaster, though I must admit I used to hate the skeleton hands, but they've grown on me, and I'm glad the ceramic version got rid of the wavy design. Your finished product has a clean, very legible dial.
 
Now that Jason is defending in-house movements, my job is 100% done here, I will move on and preach other uncharted forums :D

...Joke aside, if you pay $4k for an item that could be also bought for $10, you want to know why you drop that much money... And engraving the logo of a company on a rotor from a generic $150 ETA 2824 does not really qualify for me :D ...that said, the Pelagos is a wonderful watch with a modern and original look, and it has something playful over their Rolex counterparts I just love :D

(I am still contemplating the Heritage Chrono Blue as an holiday/sport watch... If only those markers and blue lines were aligned... )
 
If the pelagos has the same modifications as the black bay, then its still a 2824 top grade.

though cost of service for in house movements, go find a trustworthy independent watch repairer. They charge anywhere between $280-$400 to repair a coaxial movement. That's better than paying over $500 to send it off to omega.
 

Keen

Aliens ate my babysitter
The GMT? I believe so. Not half as many homages as the Sub, but yeah. Steinhart comes to mind right off the bat.

**Edit
Oops. LOL. Sorry, I thought I posted another picture with my Rolex in it, and you were referring to it. There are no homages to the Pelagos, since it's so new. There are definitely ones for the vintage Snowflakes. Here's the Pelagos by my 1675 Rolex GMT Master. Below that is my Steinhart that is an homage to the Submariner. Obviously Mercedes hands, not snowflake on that one.
iUeCL31jHwnwm.JPG

iSipwR3YVpFgs.JPG



I love that Pepsi, pretty much the only Rolex I have any interest in owning. One day...
 

pwack

Member
As someone who is relatively agnostic as to in-house movements, I think that Pelagos is great. Is there any sort of scratch resistant treatment on the titanium?

I just got back from a long weekend in NYC where I managed to sneak in a few minutes of watch shopping. Went to Torneau on Madison Ave, who is supposed to carry Grand Seikos. They had only two of them in the whole store, both locked away in a wall display. Very disappointing! One of them was the new spring drive chrono, which sure did look great. Also went over to Wempe, which had a very nice selection and great staff.
 
Yeah, and I don't like the new AT models. I find the teak dial bleh. Give me the 2500 model all day:



BTW, do most local watch repair shops only do a complete overhaul on mechanical watches, or are there basic services? Like say after 4-5 years your watch stops or it's running slow. If it dies, do they NEED to do a a complete overhaul, or can they service the movement? What if a watch just needs cleaning instead of a complete movement re-work?

Thanks
 

BrettWeir

Member
Referring to local sources, there are (or should be) basic services, yes. You can choose to have whatever done that you want.

My next watch is probably going to be an SKX007. Only for the fact that it's cheap, and you can mod the hell out of it. I want to tinker around, even though I have incredibly shaky hands sometimes.
 

sgjackson

Member
There's a part of me that really wants a no-bullshit sports watch like a stainless Explorer or Aqua Terra, but both are out of my price range right now. Does anyone have any suggestions for watches like that (mechanical movement, medium-sized, simple face designs with few to no numbers, stainless bracelet, at most a date function but preferably just hour and minute) for under 1k? I've seen some Hamiltons and Tissots that come close, but don't seem to scratch the itch the same way as comparable Rolexes/Omegas/Grand Seikos do.
 

pwack

Member
There's a part of me that really wants a no-bullshit sports watch like a stainless Explorer or Aqua Terra, but both are out of my price range right now. Does anyone have any suggestions for watches like that (mechanical movement, medium-sized, simple face designs with few to no numbers, stainless bracelet, at most a date function but preferably just hour and minute) for under 1k? I've seen some Hamiltons and Tissots that come close, but don't seem to scratch the itch the same way as comparable Rolexes/Omegas/Grand Seikos do.

I would suggest a used Sinn 556a or 556i, or a new Archimede Outdoor.

I'll post pics when not on my phone.
 
There's a part of me that really wants a no-bullshit sports watch like a stainless Explorer or Aqua Terra, but both are out of my price range right now. Does anyone have any suggestions for watches like that (mechanical movement, medium-sized, simple face designs with few to no numbers, stainless bracelet, at most a date function but preferably just hour and minute) for under 1k? I've seen some Hamiltons and Tissots that come close, but don't seem to scratch the itch the same way as comparable Rolexes/Omegas/Grand Seikos do.

Sinn is the right place to look at, I would also add Oris (for instance this sporty in your price range with a design that should suit you).

That said, if what you REALLY want is an explorer or an AT (just FYI, they are not sport watches per se, one is an 'expedition/rough travel watch' (if that means anything :D), and the other is supposed to be a diver since it's a seamaster sub-brand), my (humble and personal) advice is: it took you time to save up for 1k, do it 3 more times and get a used Explorer from the 80s/90s with that nice pepsi bezel, and don't settle for less. You will not regret it, trust me :)

Enjoy the hunt, that's half of the fun :D
 

sgjackson

Member
Sinn is the right place to look at, I would also add Oris (for instance this sporty in your price range with a design that should suit you).

That said, if what you REALLY want is an explorer or an AT (just FYI, they are not sport watches per se, one is an 'expedition/rough travel watch' (if that means anything :D), and the other is supposed to be a diver since it's a seamaster sub-brand), my (humble and personal) advice is: it took you time to save up for 1k, do it 3 more times and get a used Explorer from the 80s/90s with that nice pepsi bezel, and don't settle for less. You will not regret it, trust me :)

Enjoy the hunt, that's half of the fun :D

Yeah, I guess in my head I delineated sport vs. dress as something like "watches with metal bracelets I'd wear casually" vs. "watches with leather straps I'd wear with business/formal attire," when it's more granular than that.

Pepsi bezels do absolutely nothing for me (and I think if I'm getting something more overtly diver-styled in general I'm either getting a Sub or something like a CW Trident), but taking a look at what options are available to me I'm think I'm with you on saving up for one of the watches I really want.
 
Yeah, I guess in my head I delineated sport vs. dress as something like "watches with metal bracelets I'd wear casually" vs. "watches with leather straps I'd wear with business/formal attire," when it's more granular than that.

Pepsi bezels do absolutely nothing for me (and I think if I'm getting something more overtly diver-styled in general I'm either getting a Sub or something like a CW Trident), but taking a look at what options are available to me I'm think I'm with you on saving up for one of the watches I really want.

The pepsi bezel is a question of taste - and it's the 'marmite' of the watch world :D - but by looking at chrono24 I saw some great Explorer for $3-4k without the rotating bezel that could work.

Oh and please, go sub (better if vintage, those 5512/5513 are just so admirable on every levels) if you want a diver, the CW trident, while an ok watch, tends to be a bit over-hyped if you ask me :)
 
I think my next buy will be an Explorer II.
GMT Master II would be a nice addition to my pilot watch collection but the image projected by the Explorer II is more glamorous to me currently.

I nearly bit the bullet but then i had the opportunity to find a "cheap" flight to Japan so it's at least set back till bonus time.
 

JYabbz

Neo Member
Bumping this thread, seems to be dead at the moment.


a7u8ynah.jpg



Here's what I picked up so far in 2014:
  • Seiko SARB065
  • Seiko SARB017
  • Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic
  • Hamilton Khaki Pioneer Mechanical

Out of all of them, the Khaki Pioneer Mechanical is turning out to be my favorite. Vintage inspired pilot, Swiss 2801 hacking movement, bead blasted onion bezel case, cathedral hands, and sapphire crystal. Really hard to compete with this watch at a sub $400 price point for such a unique and quality pilot that doesn't look like a German Flieger. Definitely a unsuspected mini-grail that I stumbled upon and a must have for Pilot lovers.
 
Bumping this thread, seems to be dead at the moment.

Here's what I picked up so far in 2014:
  • Seiko SARB065
  • Seiko SARB017
  • Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic
  • Hamilton Khaki Pioneer Mechanical

Out of all of them, the Khaki Pioneer Mechanical is turning out to be my favorite. Vintage inspired pilot, Swiss 2801 hacking movement, bead blasted onion bezel case, cathedral hands, and sapphire crystal. Really hard to compete with this watch at a sub $400 price point for such a unique and quality pilot that doesn't look like a German Flieger. Definitely a unsuspected mini-grail that I stumbled upon and a must have for Pilot lovers.

You are on a shopping spree it seems! (I disagree on the Khaki, but that's really a matter of personal taste and nothing else...) Wear those in good health my friend!

Blu10: their new in-house caliber is interesting, although it lacks finishing and a few people reported some issues with it (date unaligned, accuracy issues... classic for a new caliber, but it was in 2009-2010 so it's probably ok now...). It's a big watch though, and the bezel/bracelet are quite large and shiny, which can steal a bit the show from the dial, just make sure to try it on before anything.

On Brietling, I am in love with their Transocean line from the 70s. Such class in 38mm. I could see myself with one in the future...

 

Blu10

Member
Blu10: their new in-house caliber is interesting, although it lacks finishing and a few people reported some issues with it (date unaligned, accuracy issues... classic for a new caliber, but it was in 2009-2010 so it's probably ok now...). It's a big watch though, and the bezel/bracelet are quite large and shiny, which can steal a bit the show from the dial, just make sure to try it on before anything.

On Brietling, I am in love with their Transocean line from the 70s. Such class in 38mm. I could see myself with one in the future...

I actually went in looking at a speedy but the only one that interested me was the women's one strangely enough.

I saw the breitling and yeah the case was very shiny but the watch itself was only 40mm, and she mentioned it was an in house movement...assumed it was the same movement as the b1.

Ultimately I'm try to replace the first watch I ever bought (ecodrive chronograph) with an automatic...preferably with a white face for under 6k.

Probably worth mentioning that my wrists are only 6 1/2", so depending on lug length I never go above a 42mm
 
Yes. Beautiful piece. Never seen one. It really opens your eyes on how creative watch makers can be.

Edit: just saw your post JYabbz. The SAB017 remains a striking watch. Love the look Hamilton Khaki Pioneer. There's something about that type of bezel that attracts me.
 

kehs

Banned
After having a 24 hour watch for a month or two, i find it hard to tell time on my regular watch when i wear it.

I dont think having a 24 hour clock at work helps either.
 
There's a jeweler shop 10 minutes from me that sells Grand Seikos and GO watches (alongside the usual Ball, Breitling, and Omega and other brands).

I've never seen a GO or GS in the flesh. Think I'm gonna pop by and take a look at them. I'm OCD'ing on what size watch would fit my 6 inch wrist, so going there and trying on some watches would ease my mind and narrow down the list. I'd love a PO 42mm, but it's too damn thick. =\

I just hate going into those watch shops if I'm not buying anything. In my mind I'm thinking they're getting pissed or something.
 
I just hate going into those watch shops if I'm not buying anything. In my mind I'm thinking they're getting pissed or something.

They are used to this and expect it, believe me.

I went between 4 to 7 times in the shops where I bought my high-end pieces, nobody EVER made me feel bad about it, they were diligent and understanding about this all the time.

But, because I was feeling just like you, after I bought my GO PML, I asked a clerk - who took care of me during nearly 2 months... - about it very honestly and brutally, here is how the discussion went (loose quoting on my part):

'ok, let's be honest mister, you were a bit annoyed that I came by 6 times to your store after sending multiple emails and took so much of your time to choose something, right?'

'oh, quite the contrary, I love to find the RIGHT piece, at the RIGHT price for someone, and you can only do it over a long period of time, look at this couple' (he shows a couple buying a Cartier tank covered with diamonds at the other side of the room, it's a large store) 'they just came in, and will leave the store with a piece. Is it cool for the business? For sure, but did the store clerk appreciated the negotiation/his time with them? Of course not. We not only respect people who take their time and come here multiple times before taking the plunge, we actually prefer dealing with them (...partly because they will not get back to the store after 2 weeks to change their watch because they actually prefer another model they just saw on the internet....)'

(of course, you could argue that the guy was just nice to a customer, which I understand, but I know the guy for 2 years now, and I promise you he speaks his mind :D)

So, please, whatever the store, if it's a good AD, don't feel bad about it, if anything it should be the other way around, you should be proud to take your time and not succumb at the first blingy piece :)

Just my $.02 based on my personal experience, of course.
 
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