I initially hated TB too, but my re-read made me appreciate a few aspects of it.
Pros:
+The first ten chapters or so are straight up humor, and some of the best in the series.
+Franky's first adventure with the Straw Hats, and his only one before the New World.
+Oz is a fantastic concept lore-wise and has the honor of the first group battle in the series, requiring all of the Straw Hats to take down.
+Nightmare Luffy is cool as hell
+Moriah has a cool backstory with Kaido
+Amazing epilogue with Kuma. One of Zoro's (and even Sanji's) best moments.
+Ryuma in general. Ryuma vs. Zoro.
+I'm already negative!!
+BROOK
Cons:
-Absalom, Lola, Hogback, Cindry, Perona, Bearsy, and most of the supporting cast aren't very interesting, and ugly to boot. The only exception is the Sanji Penguindog, and the
Captain John cameo if you count that - although that's easy to miss.
-Slow pacing, too much time spent on weirdly unimportant things
-Moriah's scissor shadow ability is dumb. His fruit in general is pretty dumb. I get that it fits his lazy character but it's just not very interesting to watch him fight. Even in Marineford he was dull.
-Robin's powers start becoming really weird here
-Thriller Bark itself is a pretty boring setting, aside from its concept
-Anime only complaint, but Moriah's voice doesn't fit him
at all. What were they thinking? He should have a deep, rumbling, imposing voice.
It's still my least favorite arc, unless you count Amazon Lily,
but I like it a lot more than I used to. The hyper cartoony complaint is totally valid. Even compared to the rest of the series it feels stylistically off somehow.