• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

PC Racing Sims Thread

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
What's weird is that everybody comes here for wheel questions even though there is a thread for that. But that's cool, everyone here is happy to help, I think.

The Thrustmaster T300 is the way to go in price-performance ratio, I wouldn't know anyone who disagrees. If you need a lower price, check the T150, most people who have a direct comparison between the T150 (or TMX on if you don't want PS4, but Xb1 compatibility) and the Logitech G29/G920 seem to prefer the T150 because of its belt-driven tech, even though the materials feel cheaper. The other alternative is trying to find an older G27 somewhere. Not supported by this-gen consoles, but on the PC it's still the most widespread wheel around.

Thanks. I didn't know there was a thread for wheels, ha. I only need one for PC. No next gen consoles for this guy!
 
most people who have a direct comparison between the T150 (or TMX on if you don't want PS4, but Xb1 compatibility) and the Logitech G29/G920 seem to prefer the T150 because of its belt-driven tech, even though the materials feel cheaper.
It seems I'm in the minority with this opinion, but I think the T150's steering system is considerably inferior to the G29's.
 

Branson

Member
Wish iRacing would fix the dynamic track on the oval series. The last few NASCAR races I've watched had the track completely rubber in and have marbles like 20 laps in.
 

Megasoum

Banned
Hmmm so the round rubber pad at the top of the big bolt on the TH8A shifter mount came off so now the metal circle pad at the top of the bolt is the thing that touches directly the bottom of my desk...

I don't really mind if is marks the underside of my desk but the lack of grip without the rubber really makes the whole shifter not stick properly to my desk now.

Anybody has advice on how I could fix that?

I assume some kind of glue that works well between rubber and metal?
 
Also, so I need a stand or just my desk?
If you have a fairly normal desk (not unusually thick or with something like a drawer in the way), then the clamps that come with Logitech or Thrustmaster wheels should be fine. Pedals can go on the floor - Logitech pedals have a decent carpet grip but otherwise you'll want to secure them in some way. If you desk is fairly shallow then you might be able to push them up against the wall, otherwise a box pushed against the wall might do the trick, or you may want to bolt them to a piece of wood that can brace against the wall instead.

A stand can be more convenient if you want to fold everything away after each session. When I used a desk, my pedals were permanently on the floor, with the power and pedal cables ready to go on the desk. That way I just needed to clamp the wheel to the desk, plug in the two cables, and it was good to go. Annoying having pedals under your feet all the time, but I got used to it!
 

Megasoum

Banned
So I decided to rent F1 2015 at my local library for the XB1 (since I can use my TX with it)...

Holy shit I haven't had this much fun in a long time. Sure it doesn't have the best physics or FFB or the best graphics (especially on XB1!) but man those races!

Started a season. It was raining for quali and race at Melbourne.

Managed to qualify first with Vettel. Kept my first place after the start with HAM #2 and ROS #3 (obviously lol).

I pitted first halfway through the race (doing a 25% race). HAM managed to undercut me with his pitstop on the next lap. He came out right in front of me after his stop. I was battling hard with him for a lap but then he wasn't careful during a yellow flag and read ended Bottas who was running slowly in the middle of the track (lol...). So I was back to #2 with ROS being #1 before his stop.

ROS pit on the next lap and the fucker manage to undercut me too! I end up having a couple of super intense close racing laps with him and I overtake him.

I then have to manage my fuel and tires for the rest of the lap but I finish first.

Fuck this was fun!

I'm officialy hyped for F1 2016 now.




On a bit more negative note... My TX restarted 3 times tonight. Happened twice on the XB1 and once on the PC. Really not sure what's happening... It just reboots without warning.
 

saladine1

Junior Member
I haven't played F1 game in a very long time.
Are there any 'legend' cars or modes of sorts or is it only modern cars?

Is it worth playing or should I hold off 'till 2016?

I have to say, the new engine sounds are putting me off lol...

Bring back the V12's and V10's..!
 

DD

Member
I haven't played F1 game in a very long time.
Are there any 'legend' cars or modes of sorts or is it only modern cars?

Is it worth playing or should I hold off 'till 2016?

The 2013 version had some classic cars and tracks, and it seems that it's still the best one. It's an old gen title, tho.
 

Megasoum

Banned
The 2013 version had some classic cars and tracks, and it seems that it's still the best one. It's an old gen title, tho.

I heard a lot of people say that 2015 was the best one in the recent years.

I haven't played a lot of each but I have to agree personally. 2015 is a blast so far except for the fact that it's lacking on the feature side (mainly missing a proper career).

Also I love the fact that you don't have to deal with KERS anymore. DRS is already plenty of button to manage during a lap, I hated having to deal with KERS too.


Edit: So I actually decided to buy the 2015 game on PC (I was playing it on XB1 so far). The cheapest one (by far) was Gamergate for 20$ US. I bought it, paid for it with Paypal and now the transaction is "Under Manual review" which is apparently a rare occurence.... This is fucking bullshit.. So I bought and paid for a game and I can't even play it until a dude in Sweden decides I can? I bought it because I have free time tonight, not tomorrow night.
 

Dave_6

Member
Finally got a new desk the other day, so if I decide to upgrade to a TX/T300 or a CSWv2 I have something to mount it to. My old desk wouldn't let me even mount the Logitech shifter so now I'm trying to learn heel and toe for the first time :p It isn't easy lol.
Here's a pic; don't mind the wires. Going to re route the headphone cable under the desk but there isn't anything I can really do about all the G27 wires.
27489922285_9ed8ea92c0_k.jpg
 

Megasoum

Banned
Huh... So I finally got my copy of F1 2015... I boot the game with my TX using the Alcantara leather rim.

The game recognize it as an xbox controller (I get button prompts for B, A ,Y, X) but none of the buttons on my wheel are "A"..

So I can remap the ingame controls in the menu to fit whatever I want but I can't actually go to the track cause I don't have a A button?
 
On a bit more negative note... My TX restarted 3 times tonight. Happened twice on the XB1 and once on the PC. Really not sure what's happening... It just reboots without warning.

Doesn't sound too healthy :/

My TX has been great for a long time but a few days ago the wheel went *ping* and I lost all ffb.

Carried in my race muttering "oh you little fucking bastard, I can't afford to replace you. You're getting unplugged and you'd better work when I turn you back on or you're going out the fucking window"

Thankfully the wheel sprung back into life and I apologised to her for my little outburst. We're taking things slowly (calibration, menus) but I'm sure we'll get back on track soon enough.
 
Huh... So I finally got my copy of F1 2015... I boot the game with my TX using the Alcantara leather rim.

The game recognize it as an xbox controller (I get button prompts for B, A ,Y, X) but none of the buttons on my wheel are "A"..

So I can remap the ingame controls in the menu to fit whatever I want but I can't actually go to the track cause I don't have a A button?
One of the buttons on that rim should function as A by default. I forget which, but I think it was in the bottom left. If you've done a remapping then it may have messed this up. If you're not finding it, I'd reset the controls to default and see if it works then.
 

Megasoum

Banned
One of the buttons on that rim should function as A by default. I forget which, but I think it was in the bottom left. If you've done a remapping then it may have messed this up. If you're not finding it, I'd reset the controls to default and see if it works then.

Yeah I managed to get a A button to finally get on track but the controls are still fucking weird.

In the remaping menu is shows as "Button ##" but the UI shows them as Xbox button prompts. The problem is that those xbox buttons prompts on the screen don't actually match the buttons on the wheel itself.

Dirt Rally only shows you the button numbers which actually match the wheel rim's button numbers.

I really don't know why F1 2015 shows Xbox buttons on PC when the wheel isn't actually recognized as an Xbox wheel.
 

DD

Member
I heard a lot of people say that 2015 was the best one in the recent years.

I haven't played a lot of each but I have to agree personally. 2015 is a blast so far except for the fact that it's lacking on the feature side (mainly missing a proper career).

Also I love the fact that you don't have to deal with KERS anymore. DRS is already plenty of button to manage during a lap, I hated having to deal with KERS too.


Edit: So I actually decided to buy the 2015 game on PC (I was playing it on XB1 so far). The cheapest one (by far) was Gamergate for 20$ US. I bought it, paid for it with Paypal and now the transaction is "Under Manual review" which is apparently a rare occurence.... This is fucking bullshit.. So I bought and paid for a game and I can't even play it until a dude in Sweden decides I can? I bought it because I have free time tonight, not tomorrow night.
Hmm, I played 2015 for just a little bit. It seemed solid (and people usually say that), but it also lack features like the career mode and safety car. But I'm pumped for 2016.



Finally got a new desk the other day, so if I decide to upgrade to a TX/T300 or a CSWv2 I have something to mount it to. My old desk wouldn't let me even mount the Logitech shifter so now I'm trying to learn heel and toe for the first time :p It isn't easy lol.
Here's a pic; don't mind the wires. Going to re route the headphone cable under the desk but there isn't anything I can really do about all the G27 wires.
Nice! I'm worried about the room for the shifter too, when my G27 arrives (probably today). Does it go further than the wheel on the desk?
 

Dave_6

Member
Nice! I'm worried about the room for the shifter too, when my G27 arrives (probably today). Does it go further than the wheel on the desk?

No, I've got both mounted as far on as they will go. It works fine, just wish I could mount the shifter lower like in a real car.
 

DD

Member
No, I've got both mounted as far on as they will go. It works fine, just wish I could mount the shifter lower like in a real car.

Cool, I think it will fit then.

I had one of these borrowed some time ago. I seems to me that the G27 is actually smaller in depth, which is great.

Logitech-MOMO-Force-Feedback-Racing-Wheel.jpeg
 

Dave_6

Member
Got no room for a wheel stand pro?

They bought out an extension for a shifter so you can mount it in a much more natural position.

I've got plenty of room for one of those, still haven't ruled out the idea of getting one. It would be easier than taking the wheel on and off and having to plug/unplug all the cables each day. I'd probably have to move the monitor closer to me though if I used one.
 
Oh yeah take a good look into getting one then.

The centre post doesn't get in the way imo and you can get a really nice, comfortable driving position with a wsp. Also I used to find my monitor or TV rocked around when using it on the same desk as a wheel.
 

terrible

Banned
I'm pretty sure my TX or T300 would rip my desk in half at 100% force when counter steering lol.

I wish I had room for a proper Playseat but I still really like my Playseat Challenge. A proper sitting position is pretty underrated.
 

Megasoum

Banned
So the F1 2016 page is up on Steam...

Pretty bare bone right now but it mentions Steam Workshop support??? No fucking way that the FOM would allow mods in that game.


http://store.steampowered.com/app/391040


Edit: Ah, my friend is telling me that you can share your setups and steering wheel settings via the workshop in Dirt Rally? That's cool
 

TJP

Member
bsimracing said:
From now on, the rFactor 2 development team will be concentrating their efforts on the Steam version of rFactor 2, and announced that this build will be the last update of the non-Steam version. Steam will by default auto-update you to 1098 when you next try to launch rF2.

Build 1098 Release notes:

Features:
Session starting times now default to track GDB values rather than always 9am.
Changed default for Controller.JSON value “Use thread” from “true” to “false”.
TTool: added a way to set the Surface Load Goal during Quasi Static Analysis, rather than using Surface Height directly
Restore garage setup upon race rejoin, if server’s Multiplayer.JSON setting “Race Rejoin” is set to the new value of 3. Note this may be used to restore the fixed setup when that feature is enabled.
Added mixture adjustment.
Added diffusive adhesion to tire model
Tire planar contact compliances can now be adjusted based on tire pressure, etc
Added ability to automatically mirror tires rather than re-running TTool tests on a mirrored tire.

Fixes:
Various fixes for multiple pitlanes tracks.
For rear flap rules, check track wetness in all sessions, not just race by default.
Fixed bug where if an AI retires early due to mechanical failure & doesn’t make it completely off the road (to the right), AI following him might try to avoid him….by turning straight into him.
When the player’s car is under AI control & the race finishes, he will now retire to the pits and stay retired.
Changed the way FFB gets ‘paused’ to avoid halts with certain FFB drivers.
Fix for 2nd pitlane cars not finding the right pitlane in race.
Fixed exploit that could allow people to change the fuel level when that wasn’t supposed to be allowed.
Fixed some issues with virtual vehicles not showing up in car list.
Fixed AI cars in pitlane when yellow flag gets thrown getting confused about what they are doing.
Anisotropic filter setting fixed for gJED GMTs.

Known issue:
Lost wheel intermittent repair after driver change, possibly more likely with higher damage percent set. ‘Normal’ damage repairs function as intended.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
Bought AC and am about to pull the trigger on a T150. Seems that, after some additional research, that's the best entry level option for me. If I find myself super digging it, I can always upgrade.
 
Finally got a new desk the other day, so if I decide to upgrade to a TX/T300 or a CSWv2 I have something to mount it to. My old desk wouldn't let me even mount the Logitech shifter so now I'm trying to learn heel and toe for the first time :p It isn't easy lol.
Here's a pic; don't mind the wires. Going to re route the headphone cable under the desk but there isn't anything I can really do about all the G27 wires.
Two questions: what keyboard is that and where do you get a headphone stand.
 
I didn't know AC put in a single eye, distortion corrected output for the Rift. It was old school double eyed last I checked.

I saw Olli Pahkala's video today and couldn't believe how good it looked. I had to get my stuff setup after watching it, and yeah, it looks amazing especially with "Pixels Per Display Pixel Override" at 2.

Hopefully iRacing will look just as clean come tomorrow.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
Just been playing AC with a controller, and I super suck! :D

I need to learn how to brake, accelerate, and shift more "correctly".
 

Watevaman

Member
For those of you who run sims without ABS, how do you get a feel for the locking point? In AC, I leave TCS and ABS on factory settings, which means some cars have ABS enabled or disabled. I've always found, even with my T500 pedals, that I can't get a good feeling for when the brakes are gonna lock. I try my best to do braking in a straight line, try to use threshold braking, and try to be aware of when the wheels are locking, but I find all of this to significantly hamper my times as I have to brake earlier and with less pressure to avoid locking. Right now I'm stuck with my DFGT and it's brake pedal is utter trash, to be expected.

When I first started playing sims, I had ABS enabled all the time, but I eventually disabled it more to get a "realistic" setting. However, unlike TCS off where I can come troll and have fun with slides, I can't control lockups as well.
 

Dave_6

Member
I hooked up my DFGT and pedals to my PS3 a while back to play GT6. After using a G27 for so long, I could not understand how I ever did anything with the DFGT pedals. They are utter shit! Lol.

Has anyone ever modded their G25/27 pedals with spring mods, like the ones from Nixim or GT-Eye?
 

terrible

Banned
For those of you who run sims without ABS, how do you get a feel for the locking point? In AC, I leave TCS and ABS on factory settings, which means some cars have ABS enabled or disabled. I've always found, even with my T500 pedals, that I can't get a good feeling for when the brakes are gonna lock. I try my best to do braking in a straight line, try to use threshold braking, and try to be aware of when the wheels are locking, but I find all of this to significantly hamper my times as I have to brake earlier and with less pressure to avoid locking. Right now I'm stuck with my DFGT and it's brake pedal is utter trash, to be expected.

When I first started playing sims, I had ABS enabled all the time, but I eventually disabled it more to get a "realistic" setting. However, unlike TCS off where I can come troll and have fun with slides, I can't control lockups as well.

I just use the brake mod that comes with the T3PA pedals. It helps me significantly when it comes to threshold braking.
 
Right now I'm stuck with my DFGT and it's brake pedal is utter trash, to be expected.
It's difficult to be consistent or accurate on stock DFGT pedals, as the resistance is so low, and the quality of the potentiometer reading, combined with the resolution, is poor. But it is possible to modulate brake pressure if you're very careful. Placing the pedal input 'app' in your eye line in AC can help you become more conscious of hitting the threshold mark, but you need very good foot control to avoid going too far. It's all too easy to immediately hit 100% travel on the DFGT brake, particularly if you're racing hard. As you probably know, a potentiometer brake reading isn't ideal, as you have to hit the correct position along the travel, as compared to a load cell, where you have to hit the right 'pressure', which feels more natural. However, adding a bunch of resistance to the travel can make a huge difference immediately, as it begins to feel like you're aiming for the same 'pressure' each time, like a load cell.

If you google DFGT pedal mod and look at the images, you'll see a number of interesting solutions. A popular one is to simply stick half a squash ball or some kind of dense foam underneath the lever. The brake mod that terrible mentioned is a similar idea.

I hooked up my DFGT and pedals to my PS3 a while back to play GT6. After using a G27 for so long, I could not understand how I ever did anything with the DFGT pedals. They are utter shit! Lol.

Has anyone ever modded their G25/27 pedals with spring mods, like the ones from Nixim or GT-Eye?
I've installed a Nixim mod before, it's a big improvement over stock.
 
Anything that can be done to add "expectation" to your brake is well worth it.

I've had a GTEYE before and liked it, but may have preferred the Nixim. I've done everything under the sun to DFGT pedals including balls, and bungee, foam.

Whatever it takes to gain more trust in your brake.
 

Watevaman

Member
Anything that can be done to add "expectation" to your brake is well worth it.

I've had a GTEYE before and liked it, but may have preferred the Nixim. I've done everything under the sun to DFGT pedals including balls, and bungee, foam.

Whatever it takes to gain more trust in your brake.

I'm thinking of hauling the T500 down with the Playseat but room is tight at my current place. I think for now I'll just keep ABS on and not worry about it.
 

spuckthew

Member
For those of you who run sims without ABS, how do you get a feel for the locking point? In AC, I leave TCS and ABS on factory settings, which means some cars have ABS enabled or disabled. I've always found, even with my T500 pedals, that I can't get a good feeling for when the brakes are gonna lock. I try my best to do braking in a straight line, try to use threshold braking, and try to be aware of when the wheels are locking, but I find all of this to significantly hamper my times as I have to brake earlier and with less pressure to avoid locking. Right now I'm stuck with my DFGT and it's brake pedal is utter trash, to be expected.

When I first started playing sims, I had ABS enabled all the time, but I eventually disabled it more to get a "realistic" setting. However, unlike TCS off where I can come troll and have fun with slides, I can't control lockups as well.

I can't drive AC without factory ABS and TCS. I mean, some cars are better than others (GT/race cars surprisingly), but I cannot drive the road cars for shit. By contrast, iRacing, rFactor 2, and R3E are fine in this regard. I am using shitty TX default wheels, but still.
 

Zeth

Member
I didn't know AC put in a single eye, distortion corrected output for the Rift. It was old school double eyed last I checked.

I saw Olli Pahkala's video today and couldn't believe how good it looked. I had to get my stuff setup after watching it, and yeah, it looks amazing especially with "Pixels Per Display Pixel Override" at 2.

Hopefully iRacing will look just as clean come tomorrow.

Rift with AC is incredible. I've been playing every day since I got my CV1 and the update released on about the same day.
 

Shaneus

Member
Anything that can be done to add "expectation" to your brake is well worth it.

I've had a GTEYE before and liked it, but may have preferred the Nixim. I've done everything under the sun to DFGT pedals including balls, and bungee, foam.

Whatever it takes to gain more trust in your brake.
I can vouch for the GTEYE as well. Worked out even better for me, it's made in Australia so it only took about two days from buying it to receive it in the mail.
 

TJP

Member
I've installed a Nixim mod before, it's a big improvement over stock.
I have the GTEye and it is a big improvement although if you have powerful legs, you'll still push the brake pedal to the stop with ease. I need to put a squash ball or something else to make the pedal even harder to press.
 
Top Bottom