phazedplasma
Member
damn this thread is awesome, im not sure i'll have anything to contribute, but looking forward to everyones progress!
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Plastic Scale Modeling Age |OT| Planes, tanks, cars, sci-fi & more
- Thread starter Wubby
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lastplayed
Member
Hope GAF doesn't mind a bit of self promotion, but I've recently launched my own modeling channel. It's early days yet and I'm still working out what sort of videos I want to make etc, but there's 4 videos up. Hopefully they aren't too boring!
Nice! Congrats.
Nice! Congrats.
The latest issue of Fine Scale Modeler has a really nice HMS Dreadnought on the cover. Lots of people that do these kits go above and beyond with brass etching, wood overlay for the decks, and wire rigging. This particular model is gorgeous.
Subscribed.
lastplayed
Member
Subscribed.
Thanks!
Razgriz-Specter
Member
Has there been true 1/100 scale Evangelion models?
Get some results on google but those don't seem right given the price and such.
Get some results on google but those don't seem right given the price and such.
Those are non-scale model kits. Though the PG kit is around 1/200 scale.
Razgriz-Specter
Member
Thanks, seemed like a stretch considering at their smallest they are almost double the taller Gundams.
Razgriz-Specter
Member
So I ordered a bunch of generic civilian figures in different scales and man you can customize them so easily at that size.
Started out just making a 1/100 Mei-Ling to go with my Metal Gear kits.
Ended up also doing Sniper Wolf and an Otacon figure in 1/100.
Olga is next.
Non-Metal Gear related I made a 1/100 Takao from Arpeggio of Blue Steel.
Working on an Asuka from Evangelion.
Kongou & Akagi from Kantai Collection and Iona & Kongou from Blue Steel are next.
Started out just making a 1/100 Mei-Ling to go with my Metal Gear kits.
Ended up also doing Sniper Wolf and an Otacon figure in 1/100.
Olga is next.
Non-Metal Gear related I made a 1/100 Takao from Arpeggio of Blue Steel.
Working on an Asuka from Evangelion.
Kongou & Akagi from Kantai Collection and Iona & Kongou from Blue Steel are next.
lastplayed
Member
Elitist1945
Member
Damn. I'd show off my models (Queen Mary 2 1:400, Titanic 1:600) but they were done years ago and look like shit now.
lastplayed
Member
You should post them anyway, would love to see them! All that matters is if you like them and gave it your best shot, I know myself I'm far from building some of the models I've seen on the net.
Razgriz-Specter
Member
Decided to give up on the 1/100 ships.
Very limited selection and the few they actually do have are around $1,000+.
Not to mention size is a problem at that scale, limiting me to possibly 1 kit.
So I found Trumpeter's 1/200 kits and will likely go with a couple of those in the $250-$300 range.
Started with the USS Iowa(wanted Missouri but figured to start cheaper)
Want Yamoto but the price is looking ridiculous on it, saw just one at $750.
Also looking for maybe an Akagi, Takao or Kongou.
Very limited selection and the few they actually do have are around $1,000+.
Not to mention size is a problem at that scale, limiting me to possibly 1 kit.
So I found Trumpeter's 1/200 kits and will likely go with a couple of those in the $250-$300 range.
Started with the USS Iowa(wanted Missouri but figured to start cheaper)
Want Yamoto but the price is looking ridiculous on it, saw just one at $750.
Also looking for maybe an Akagi, Takao or Kongou.
lastplayed
Member
1/00 would be huge!
1/350 is big enough for me, with my two Enterprises.
Where I've so far painted and weathered the hull and deck:
And built the tower:
There's no photo-etch unfortunately, it's a bit pricey so I've just settled for building out of the box.
1/350 is big enough for me, with my two Enterprises.
Where I've so far painted and weathered the hull and deck:
And built the tower:
There's no photo-etch unfortunately, it's a bit pricey so I've just settled for building out of the box.
Razgriz-Specter
Member
Im actually thinking about the 1/350s versions for RC conversions.
Originally thought about doing it on the 1/200 but at that price im too scared to mess with it.
Also as they are cheaper I want to attempt something like this
On a Takao or Kirishima kit.
Still trying to figure out a lightsource for that though.
hooijdonk17
Member
OK GAF, I've had this sitting around since 2000. Let's do this.
If anyone's familiar with the kit, or something similar, please advise. The official instructions for painting the livery is paint white, then apply the red decals. That, to me, is absurd. I plan on doing it with white sprey, masking tape, then red sprey. Am I right to think it would be infinitely better this way?
Also, fuck enamels. I'll be doing it all in acrylic paints and washes. Anyone else use these paints for scale models?
If anyone's familiar with the kit, or something similar, please advise. The official instructions for painting the livery is paint white, then apply the red decals. That, to me, is absurd. I plan on doing it with white sprey, masking tape, then red sprey. Am I right to think it would be infinitely better this way?
Also, fuck enamels. I'll be doing it all in acrylic paints and washes. Anyone else use these paints for scale models?
Yes, it would look better and considering the age of the decals it would probably also be easier to just paint the red parts instead of using the decals.
Chairmanchuck
Member
Anyone knows what other anime shows Hasegawa did? A friend gave me a Last Exile model. Still have to finish my 2.0 Eva 01 and Gundam Wing.
lastplayed
Member
Yep, that's all I use (except for a few Tamiya spray cans). The Vallejo model acrylics even have sweet fragrances.
Razgriz-Specter
Member
Holy cow, the 1/200 Iowa just got here and I can't believe how big it it.
Makes the 1/275 Russian Destroyer I have look like a dingy.
The photoetch is scaring me.
Makes the 1/275 Russian Destroyer I have look like a dingy.
The photoetch is scaring me.
OK GAF, I've had this sitting around since 2000. Let's do this.
If anyone's familiar with the kit, or something similar, please advise. The official instructions for painting the livery is paint white, then apply the red decals. That, to me, is absurd. I plan on doing it with white sprey, masking tape, then red sprey. Am I right to think it would be infinitely better this way?
Also, fuck enamels. I'll be doing it all in acrylic paints and washes. Anyone else use these paints for scale models?
I've got an MP4/7 still in the box myself. They recommend TS-36 I think, fluorescent red. From what I've seen, it's a really good match for that era McLaren.
lastplayed
Member
lol, how big is it?
Razgriz-Specter
Member
Going on 6ft.
lastplayed
Member
Razgriz-Specter
Member
Good lord.. where do you put something like that?
Was my first question when I pulled the hull out of the box.
and im wanting 1-3 more 1/200 ships so I need to figure something out.
A decent stint at playing world of warships and a desire to get back into this combine and I'm gonna buy the 1:500 Nagato battleship from fujimi that's coming out this month when it stocks.
https://hlj.com/product/FUJ61011/Nav
It seems to be cheaper than the older version of the same model (non-premiuim), but I could only find one badly translated reference as to whats different, being some additional aftermarket parts included like metal/PE parts? Not sure. I'm assuming its cheaper because its newly made and stocked vs. older models lying around at various retailers. If anyone finds out let me know I'm curious if its a good thing or a bad thing that a newer version is coming out that's much cheaper than the stock of the older models.
Relatedly: how to choose colors? It's been a long time since I've bought one of these and I have a decent hobby kit from miniature-gaming days but most of my acrylic paints are long since solidified.
https://hlj.com/product/FUJ61011/Nav
It seems to be cheaper than the older version of the same model (non-premiuim), but I could only find one badly translated reference as to whats different, being some additional aftermarket parts included like metal/PE parts? Not sure. I'm assuming its cheaper because its newly made and stocked vs. older models lying around at various retailers. If anyone finds out let me know I'm curious if its a good thing or a bad thing that a newer version is coming out that's much cheaper than the stock of the older models.
Relatedly: how to choose colors? It's been a long time since I've bought one of these and I have a decent hobby kit from miniature-gaming days but most of my acrylic paints are long since solidified.
Razgriz-Specter
Member
Im really not understanding the purpose of 90% of this Photo etch for anything other than the wires and railings.
"Okay here are 100 pre-sculpted doors, now glue this one random photo etch door on. Got 50 sculpted life preservers, here are 5 photo etched"
"Okay here are 100 pre-sculpted doors, now glue this one random photo etch door on. Got 50 sculpted life preservers, here are 5 photo etched"
lastplayed
Member
Maybe it's to correct some missing parts? Otherwise yeah that does seem odd.
See if you can find a build that someone did of the same kit online. Maybe even on Fine Scale Modeler. See what they did.
lastplayed
Member
Enterprise got some much needed attention tonight. I really need to finish her.
Agent_ShortBus
Member
Hey guys I have a quick question if you don't mind my asking. So I'm in the middle of fixing up my actual car (accident long story) and decided I'd buy a 1/18 DIE CAST MODEL and try and make it look kinda like my real car. I've never painted anything before so I tried winging it. In the end it came out ok and not as crappy as I expected haha. So now my question, is there any way to get the plastic windshield pieces on the model to look like their tinted? I want to make the rear and small side ones look tinted.
Sorry for the crappy pics. I'm also gonna fix up the parts where i missed paint the first time in the future.
Sorry for the crappy pics. I'm also gonna fix up the parts where i missed paint the first time in the future.
lastplayed
Member
I guess the easiest way is to paint them with a transparent/clear coloured paint, like smoke or something.
Applying with a brush might be tricky to get an even coat (especially important with transparent paint), would be better to remove the plastic and spray with an airbrush.
Cool car btw. I've got a diecast of mine too, except it's not quite the Type-R version.
Agent_ShortBus
Member
I guess the easiest way is to paint them with a transparent/clear coloured paint, like smoke or something.
Applying with a brush might be tricky to get an even coat (especially important with transparent paint), would be better to remove the plastic and spray with an airbrush.
Cool car btw. I've got a diecast of mine too, except it's not quite the Type-R version.
Thanks I'll try it. I never even thought of transparent/clear coloured paint. I don't have an airbrush so a regular brush will have to do. I'm not to worried of it coming out perfect. I just want it to kinda look like my car haha.
lastplayed
Member
Cool, if you go for brushing I suggest doing a thin coat, let it dry, then repeat until you get the required tint. Doing so should cut down on unsightly brush strokes.
thesuperfunk
Member
Just grab a Tamiya spray can ...
Chairmanchuck
Member
Almost finished my Gundam Wing model.
I really hate those pressure stickers....
I really hate those pressure stickers....
lastplayed
Member
Finally started to build my tiny transparent aircraft for the Enterprise.
Finally started to build my tiny transparent aircraft for the Enterprise.
Where's Wonderwoman?
lastplayed
Member
In the can.
lastplayed
Member
Depends what I'm sanding.
Sometimes it can take a while, especially if it's a delicate part. Maybe try with a lower grit paper and then work your way up the finer grit numbers the closer you get?
I also use a small metal sanding file just to remove small bits quickly.
I was working the opposite, first 1500 then 1200. I''l try switching it. And speaking of metal sanding files, what do we use them instead of sand paper?
lastplayed
Member
1500 is pretty fine, I'd usually only use that for polishing. I start at 400 and then finish with 1200, if I need a finer finish I'll wet the surface and then use 1200.
But it's not like I live by those rules, it just depends what paper I've got at the time and what model I'm working on.
I only use a tiny metal file, like this.
Mostly for quickly removing the stubs you get after clipping a piece off the sprue. It's also handy for filing down photo-etch parts.
Razgriz-Specter
Member
My model is pretty much on hold till I get paid and can buy more supplies.
Hull and deck alone used almost an entire can of gloss clear-coat.
Might need more haze gray as well because its starting to look like it might not be enough for such a huge ship.
Im amazed how good the standard plastic deck turned out though,
basically painted it a sand color gave that a gloss clear-coat then did a dark brown wash , a gloss clear-coat over the wash and finally a flat coat over that.
Hull and deck alone used almost an entire can of gloss clear-coat.
Might need more haze gray as well because its starting to look like it might not be enough for such a huge ship.
Im amazed how good the standard plastic deck turned out though,
basically painted it a sand color gave that a gloss clear-coat then did a dark brown wash , a gloss clear-coat over the wash and finally a flat coat over that.
lastplayed
Member
Been working on the Phalanx guns for the Enterprise.
On the left are the kit parts, on the right are some resin and photoetch aftermarket upgrades. A slight improvement!
On the left are the kit parts, on the right are some resin and photoetch aftermarket upgrades. A slight improvement!
lastplayed
Member
It really is. But to be fair to Tamiya, the Enterprise kit is 30 years old.
Been working on the Phalanx guns for the Enterprise.
On the left are the kit parts, on the right are some resin and photoetch aftermarket upgrades. A slight improvement!
Fucking cool