cyborgnumberblue
Member
Heads up to Massachusetts-GAF, some dude is selling 4 Sony PVM-2030s.
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Retro AV Club Thread 2: Classic Gaming Done Right!
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bodine1231
Member
That's a good price. I'm selling mine for $350 but it just had a full cap replacement done so the picture is gorgeous.
bodine1231
Member
You need a SCART to DB25 D-sub cable.
sixteen-bit
Member
Tempted. Listing's already 8 days old tho. I bet they're gone :/
Kawika
Member
So I think my PS1 disc drive is dying. I really wish I looked at the serial number but it was after they took out the composite hook ups in the back. I looked it up online and it appears to be SCPH-5501 because it still has that serial port thing on the side (the action replay/link port). IIRC they took that out in the last revision before the PSX which I also have.
The main reason is this is my modded PS1 and I have a ton of imports that I would still like to be playing.
Anyway,Is there a prefered seller of the drives I should be aware of? So many different looking drives available on ebay I thought I would ask here first.
The main reason is this is my modded PS1 and I have a ton of imports that I would still like to be playing.
Anyway,Is there a prefered seller of the drives I should be aware of? So many different looking drives available on ebay I thought I would ask here first.
PumpkinSpice
Banned
Yeah so make sure you get the right serial number because there are a LOT of different revisions to the drive assembly.
If you end up ordering a new one, most of the assemblies on ebay are shit. They're made from cheaper parts that wear down over time (more plastic, less metal) with not as good a fit to everything and you can end up with scratched discs as say the drive spindle loosens.
If you can get an original one that would be best but it's not always possible. I ended up taking a shit assembly, carefully removing just the laser itself + ribbon cable and placing that inside my OEM/original assembly. Was a pain but the end result is pretty good.
I would recommend trying to adjust the laser pot first since that might be all you need. You need to be careful here, as only a small adjustment in one direction or the other should be all you need. If you end up installing a new laser/assembly you will likely need to do this anyway.
Is it just backups that you're having issues with or normal discs? If it's just backups I'd also recommend trying higher quality blanks and a lower-speed burn before anything else.
Shin Johnpv
Member
Just ordered some RGB cables for my original PS.
Kawika
Member
I don't have any back up games. Its all NTSC-J or NTSC-U games. The disc sounds like it struggles to load and often takes a really long time but eventually loads. No skipping on audio. I heard the modchip can make some games like Chrono Cross hard to load. It just sounds like its having an awful time in there. The thing is, I only had it about a year before I got a PS2 and I played mostly everything on that instead. So I the laser should have really low hours on it.
Not related
A friend has a JVC TM-H1750CG. It supports 480p I already have 2 240p/480i monitors but I think this might be worth checking out. He is offering to sell it for about $100. I just wanted to know if anyone has seen this monitor. I can't really find much on it outside of the manual here
http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/monitor/brochure/tmh1750cgu.pdf
Looks like that model doesn't have built in RGB inputs, so you may need to also buy an RGB card to get the most out of it, unless your friend is selling it with an RGB card installed.
Other than that retroAV gaf seem to have a lot of love for 480p JVC monitors and they're often used for the best images you'll see in the scan-line screen shot thread.
I got this one for my chipped scph-1001 and it works flawlessly:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EFUPWY/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I did have to swap the top plastic of my old drive(easy) for it to fit perfectly in mine. Not sure if you need to for the scph-5501.
Kawika
Member
It does come with the RGB Card. I have 20F1U but that thing is a monster. and I would like to clear some room in that space. According to the manual it doesn't support 31hz but maybe it does with the card? I am not sure how this monitor works. I am excited none the less.
Thank you. I will check my model number tonight. I appreciate everyone's input.
bodine1231
Member
I've got the JVC V1710CG and its freaking gorgeous,does all resolutions and is sharp as hell. People keep focusing on the PVM's but the higher end JVC's are fantastic.
Just got this badboy in today. Works perfectly with every console in the chain. Not noticing any loss in quality either. And as a bonus the Knight Rider lights match my Metroid poster perfectly!
Just got this badboy in today. Works perfectly with every console in the chain. Not noticing any loss in quality either. And as a bonus the Knight Rider lights match my Metroid poster perfectly!
Danny Dudekisser
I paid good money for this Dynex!
SCART cables notwithstanding, I think I finally have the rest of the stuff I need to have my gaming setup be... well, halfway decent again. Pretty excited to finally get all this shit hooked up, and maybe actually take some pictures of it.
Kawika
Member
I've got the JVC V1710CG and its freaking gorgeous,does all resolutions and is sharp as hell. People keep focusing on the PVM's but the higher end JVC's are fantastic.
Just got this badboy in today. Works perfectly with every console in the chain. Not noticing any loss in quality either. And as a bonus the Knight Rider lights match my Metroid poster perfectly!
I'm trying to figure out how to select 480p. With my BVM if I have sync on it won't work so I have to turn sync off. Do I have to have a dsub with vertical and horizontal sync. I have a feeling this thing might support it because I have the RGB card on the back.
Electric Eye
Banned
So after about a week I received my Chinese CGA chassis and man I'm so excited at the results. After some tinkering I got it fired up on the donor TV tube and can now move on to getting started on the cab. I have a noami GD system going into it and am also planning to install a dreamcast moded for the cab. More importantly with the chassis being less than $60 its a cheap way to mod tv tubes to accepts straight RGB and so after im done with the cab my next project will be a TV modded with one of these chassis connected to rgb moded consoles.
Donor TV: Free 27" Panasonic
TV chassis out
Arcade Chassis installed
Lots of knobs to play around with. Its a guessing game as its all in non english and no instructions
The cab its going into along with the naomi board.
MVC looking good needs some tweeks and its upside down (easy fix the verticle leads are reversed)
Donor TV: Free 27" Panasonic
TV chassis out
Arcade Chassis installed
Lots of knobs to play around with. Its a guessing game as its all in non english and no instructions
The cab its going into along with the naomi board.
MVC looking good needs some tweeks and its upside down (easy fix the verticle leads are reversed)
Kawika
Member
According to this thread on Reddit. Its only 240p/480i oh well.
https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/wiki/speclist
Still not a bad monitor. I like it a lot and its the sweet spot between my 2 Sony's.
https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/wiki/speclist
Still not a bad monitor. I like it a lot and its the sweet spot between my 2 Sony's.
Nice! I've got the 1950, sucks that they don't do 480p but still great monitors.
Barrel Cannon
Member
Heads up Retro AV gaf, GDEMU has a new batch of GDEMUs coming this Saturday. Not in the market for one myself but I know some of you are.
Are you following some sort of guide for this at all? Seems like a lot of work but from my understanding of your post, you are doing all this to get RGB by connecting it directly from the chassis to your board?
Are you following some sort of guide for this at all? Seems like a lot of work but from my understanding of your post, you are doing all this to get RGB by connecting it directly from the chassis to your board?
sixteen-bit
Member
Not in the market for GDEMU either, but I'm close on RHEA.
davidwhangchoi
Member
i eventually need a dreamcast. but saturn first.
Electric Eye
Banned
No it's a lot easier than it looks. What I'm doing is removing the tv's guts and replacing them with a universal arcade board. These boards inputs are RGB only. It's a very cheap way to build an rgb monitor because tv tubes are practically free.
Barrel Cannon
Member
Hmmm, well I guess years of hearing not to open up CRT's has scared me into attempting something like what you are doing. Without a guide I'd be going in blind like you. Any recommendations on safety precautions?
Guess most of us are in the same boat XD. P.S. I miss your old avatar sixteen-bit.
Kawika
Member
How well does the GDEMU work? I recently found out about it but I've never seen anyone I know talk about it. Does it have 100% compatibility?
Yeah I am really considering selling my BVM 20F1U. Its a better monitor for sure. But not much better and the money I can get for it would recoup some of my costs of buying new hardware and games. This monitor was barely used and the picture is so so sharp its really amazing how much of a difference low hours makes.
The RHEA has great compatibility too? The only reason I haven't gotten a saturn is the price of the software.
You see the little pcb at the end of the tube? Don't touch it.
Both products work extremely well and are pretty well supported by the seller. (Receiving multiple firmware upgrades, etc.) They both have near, if not complete compatibility with their respective libraries. If you can get yours hands on them, definitely do it.
I am. Thanks for the heads up!
Barrel Cannon
Member
Not sure if it has full compatibility but heard great things about how well it works. It does have a limitation on how many folders it can have for games though
As far as Saturn is concerned Japan prices in general are much cheaper than US counterparts and pair well with an action replay. It works great as well. No more skipping when your CD is scratched even slightly or laser is giving issues.
Not super hard, to be honest. You'll need some way of running the games off the drive, such as a Free McBoot memory card, and an adapter to get a modern HDD to fit the Network Adapter (Different amount of pins). Personally, I use an SD card adapter, which works fine, and makes it much easier to add/remove games in my setup, though your mileage may vary.
There's tutorials on everything if you look, not sure whether they should be linked here or not.
Shin Johnpv
Member
You can either get an older ide drive, or there's adapters as well as mod kits for the PS2's Network adapter that allow it to use a SATA hard drive. The real problem is in not having the hard drive rails that came with the official hard drive. So the drive sits in there a bit loose, make sure not to move your PS2 around much.
Thankfully I still have a older PC with ATA support. I tried to use a spare ATA drive with the software but getting a error with it.
It's amazing how just setting the contrast just a bit too high can make your PVM look way less sharp. After a certain threshold on my set, colors start to bleed a lot more and the whole picture looks a lot uglier. When I turn it down, everything looks nice and sharp again.
The brighter colors (especially any sort of white text) also bleed into the scanlines when it's up too high. I don't really like that on a PVM. It looks better on consumer sets though.
The brighter colors (especially any sort of white text) also bleed into the scanlines when it's up too high. I don't really like that on a PVM. It looks better on consumer sets though.
dancrane212
Member
Well, my return of the GC_video dongle went well so props to Zeldaxpro for that at least; contacted him a couple weeks ago after the first report of it shorting out a Cube popped up and had no issue sending it back for a refund. Figure I'll just wait it out now and see how things shake out with future developments.
bodine1231
Member
Try adding a BNC resistor to one of the line outs. I've had to do that on three or four of the PVMs I got. It'll limit the contrast and improve colors without making them bleed. HUGE difference.
Barrel Cannon
Member
^I've been meaning to get some caps. Thanks for the reminder
RadarScope1
Member
Huh. Where do you get these?
Barrel Cannon
Member
I would just resort to Ebay. Although if you are in the States you probably have more options that RetroAV GAF will comment on
Been meaning to do this. Didn't realize it was so important. I'll order some today.
Any reason why I shouldn't just put them on all of the line outs?
RadarScope1
Member
The prices on eBay are quite varied. Any reason not to use the cheaper ones? Also, I assume you need to match the ohms to what's listed on the hookups (75 in my case)?
socksfelloff
Member
Pvms auto terminate unused outputs @ 75ohm so that's not needed. BVMs do not auto terminate and require the resistor caps.
bodine1231
Member
Not all PVM's do this,the older ones don't.
I'm having the same trouble right now. I cannot get the left monitor to true black when no signal is present like the one on the right. Both are 20M4U's with the same settings. I've tried putting resistors but that didnt change anything. I'm wondering if there's a setting I'm missing or maybe an internal pot.
Edit: I'm seeing a hint of raster lines so I'm guessing there is a "screen" or some sort of pot on the flyback like an arcade monitor that I need to lower.
socksfelloff
Member
Hmmm every PVM I've seen does. Consult the manual I guess!
Looks like a brightness/contrast issue to me. If it's not it makes me miss missle for his crt knowledge!
bodine1231
Member
Almost all of the 14" PVM's from the TV studio that I bought had them. I also had to put one on an M2 on the green output to bring it in line.
mariosbrother
Member
That's a fun set up. Like the SM3 lightup.
Kawika
Member
I found out i have the 7001 model. So I've never attempted to adjust the laser pot. Whats involved?
PumpkinSpice
Banned
Take system apart, find it, use a small screwdriver to gently turn very fine amounts, test with games, repeat until you have it right.
It's best not to go more than like 1/4 turn in either direction from where you start as adjusting this changes the voltage going into the laser itself. The last time I did this I marked one spot with a permanent marker to make that part easier.
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