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Retro AV Club Thread 2: Classic Gaming Done Right!

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Danny Dudekisser

I paid good money for this Dynex!
YOOO. I got a Harmony Elite remote, and got it set up so that it controls my OSSC and all that.

Why didn't I do this sooner? Especially with the gscartsw in place, this makes switching from my Blu Ray player to the SNES or whatever suuuuper easy. Before this, I had to switch the HDMI on my TV and on my receiver and had like 12378 remotes. Feels like my old school stuff is actually integrated into the setup now.


Edit: Also, it's nice to not have to use that ghetto Chinese remote the OSSC came with.
 

bodine1231

Member
Noob question(s) incoming. I picked up a PVM last year. My first one and I have nothing to compare it to. I was playing on it today and coming back to it after a few months, and the blacks looked very washed out to me. More like a dark grey. What's the black level supposed to be like on these? It's tough to tell through youtube videos but I'm seeing what appears to be really deep and rich blacks on similar sets. What should my expectation be here?

Are you using RGB or component?
 
YOOO. I got a Harmony Elite remote, and got it set up so that it controls my OSSC and all that.

Why didn't I do this sooner? Especially with the gscartsw in place, this makes switching from my Blu Ray player to the SNES or whatever suuuuper easy. Before this, I had to switch the HDMI on my TV and on my receiver and had like 12378 remotes. Feels like my old school stuff is actually integrated into the setup now.


Edit: Also, it's nice to not have to use that ghetto Chinese remote the OSSC came with.

Have you tried the remote with your omega yet ?
 

jsnepo

Member
I know this has been asked quite a few times already but I just want a general consensus of which to get especially now that the Framemeister is available locally in our country (no shipping fees). Should I get the OSSC pr Framemeister for 240p and 480i/p gaming? Which one has better compatibility and looks better?
 

Omerta

Member
Hey all - just testing the waters:

I have an slg in a box that has only been used (literally) once and is brand new in condition that I'm interested in selling.

If anyone's interested I'd sell it for an absolute steal! Get in touch if you're interested.
 

Crynox

Neo Member
Does anyone here prefer their 14" PVM over their 20" PVM?

I feel like 14 inches is a nice sweet spot because everything looks so sharp at that size, yet it's still big enough so that you're not squinting or anything.

My 20 incher is still my main PVM but something about the 14 inch one is way more magical in person.

Late response..

I much prefer 14 inch. I played on this size for many years then went on a mission to get a larger screen that could match the picture quality of 14inch but after lots of trail and error, ended up back with 14inch. Bigger is not always better!
 

bodine1231

Member
Is there any place in the US that sells PAL Gamecubes? I ordered one about 3 weeks ago from Gamesconnection.co but it looks like its in transportation limbo.


I know this has been asked quite a few times already but I just want a general consensus of which to get especially now that the Framemeister is available locally in our country (no shipping fees). Should I get the OSSC pr Framemeister for 240p and 480i/p gaming? Which one has better compatibility and looks better?

OSSC definitely looks better. I'd check the thread at videogameperfection to see if your TV is compatible with the OSSC first. If it is then the OSSC wins imo.

Hey all - just testing the waters:

I have an slg in a box that has only been used (literally) once and is brand new in condition that I'm interested in selling.

If anyone's interested I'd sell it for an absolute steal! Get in touch if you're interested.

Whats an slg?
 

televator

Member
I know this has been asked quite a few times already but I just want a general consensus of which to get especially now that the Framemeister is available locally in our country (no shipping fees). Should I get the OSSC pr Framemeister for 240p and 480i/p gaming? Which one has better compatibility and looks better?

In the next OT we'll have to make this question a more prominent highlight in the OP. It gets asked like every other page.

The FM still has better compatibility, but the OSSC isn't as bad as it was before it seems. OSSC looks better for 240p and is lag free with both 240 and 480i. The FM has more scaling and zooming options, and better quality handling of 480i at the cost of small lag.
 
In the next OT we'll have to make this question a more prominent highlight in the OP. It gets asked like every other page.

The FM still has better compatibility, but the OSSC isn't as bad as it was before it seems. OSSC looks better for 240p and is lag free with both 240 and 480i. The FM has more scaling and zooming options, and better quality handling of 480i at the cost of small lag.

Maybe a mod can get this into the OP soon.
 
Got my Famicom Disk System yesterday. Now I need my Analogue NT Mini before I can actually test it lol.

If the disk drive works fine, would you be willing to tell us where you got it? I've noticed a seemingly new seller on eBay who is selling refurbished drives for a decent price. He's in Canada, so that helps the price if you're in the US. I have a drive but it's a bit off. Can't get my FDSStick to work yet, either.

Crap, sorry for the DP.
 

New002

Member
Are you using RGB or component?

RGB from my SNES. I ended up playing with the sub bright value in the service menu as it was producing slightly better results than the front adjustment. I got it to where I'm happy enough with it, although there's some slight loss of detail at said brightness level. I used the background in an MMX stage to judge detail loss, and then fired up SMW and hit a hint box since they are solid black with white text. From there I lowered the brightness ever do slightly until the black field showed no scanlines. Scanlines were only visible on the white text.

Without some real world reference though I may be spinning my wheels over a picture that's not actually that bad.

Now, this is a medical monitor, so I dunno if that has anything to do with it. Maybe the MD PVMs were built with slightly different internals to different specs or something, and the picture isn't exactly the same as an equivalent broadcast monitor. Dunno.
 

bodine1231

Member
RGB from my SNES. I ended up playing with the sub bright value in the service menu as it was producing slightly better results than the front adjustment. I got it to where I'm happy enough with it, although there's some slight loss of detail at said brightness level. I used the background in an MMX stage to judge detail loss, and then fired up SMW and hit a hint box since they are solid black with white text. From there I lowered the brightness ever do slightly until the black field showed no scanlines. Scanlines were only visible on the white text.

Without some real world reference though I may be spinning my wheels over a picture that's not actually that bad.

Now, this is a medical monitor, so I dunno if that has anything to do with it. Maybe the MD PVMs were built with slightly different internals to different specs or something, and the picture isn't exactly the same as an equivalent broadcast monitor. Dunno.

You could always crack it open and adjust the screen pot. Just make sure to set everything to stock.
 

New002

Member
You could always crack it open and adjust the screen pot. Just make sure to set everything to stock.

Relatively safe adjustment to make? You're talking to a total noob when it comes to this, and all I've heard is that you don't wanna be poking around inside a CRT if you don't know what you're doing.

Thanks for your help btw. I ran across this thread and my set originally looked like the one on the left. It currently looks more like the one on the right, but adjusting this screen pot sounds like it's something I'd want to try out in addition to everything else.
 

bodine1231

Member
Relatively safe adjustment to make? You're talking to a total noob when it comes to this, and all I've heard is that you don't wanna be poking around inside a CRT if you don't know what you're doing.

Thanks for your help btw. I ran across this thread and my set originally looked like the one on the left. It currently looks more like the one on the right, but adjusting this screen pot sounds like it's something I'd want to try out in addition to everything else.

Not dangerous at all. The only thing that will electrocute you is the anode cap on top of the tube,PVM's are very easy to work on. There should be two knobs on the flyback,Focus and Screen,the first controls the sharpness and the second the brightness/gamma. If you want to be extra safe just use a plastic screwdriver,I just use my hands. You can leave it running while you do it. Just make sure to set everything stock. Just make sure to make tiny turns to the pot and not spin it all the way one way.
 
I know this has been asked quite a few times already but I just want a general consensus of which to get especially now that the Framemeister is available locally in our country (no shipping fees). Should I get the OSSC pr Framemeister for 240p and 480i/p gaming? Which one has better compatibility and looks better?

It depends on your tv, and setup. While compatibility has improved with the OSSC it's not universal the way it is with the framemeister yet. You have pros and cons to both and it really depends on what systems you have and how you're going to be hooking them up. The OSSC has no lag, but it also won't take any inputs other than component or RGB. The FM can take composite, S-Video, Component, RGB, and even HDMI, but it's handling of colors isn't as nice as the OSSC.


I would do like others have said and check the compatibility first for your tv and the consoles you most want to play with it.
 

New002

Member
Not dangerous at all. The only thing that will electrocute you is the anode cap on top of the tube,PVM's are very easy to work on. There should be two knobs on the flyback,Focus and Screen,the first controls the sharpness and the second the brightness/gamma. If you want to be extra safe just use a plastic screwdriver,I just use my hands. You can leave it running while you do it. Just make sure to set everything stock. Just make sure to make tiny turns to the pot and not spin it all the way one way.

Sounds good. When I'm able to get to it I'll set the sub bright and contrast back to the default values, with the front knobs to halfway, and then see what the screen adjustment does. Appreciate it.
 

Peltz

Member
Not dangerous at all. The only thing that will electrocute you is the anode cap on top of the tube,PVM's are very easy to work on. There should be two knobs on the flyback,Focus and Screen,the first controls the sharpness and the second the brightness/gamma. If you want to be extra safe just use a plastic screwdriver,I just use my hands. You can leave it running while you do it. Just make sure to set everything stock. Just make sure to make tiny turns to the pot and not spin it all the way one way.

If you someone could find a picture of exactly what to touch and avoid I'd appreciate it. I don't want to open a PVM without knowing exactly what's what.
 
It depends on your tv, and setup. While compatibility has improved with the OSSC it's not universal the way it is with the framemeister yet. You have pros and cons to both and it really depends on what systems you have and how you're going to be hooking them up. The OSSC has no lag, but it also won't take any inputs other than component or RGB. The FM can take composite, S-Video, Component, RGB, and even HDMI, but it's handling of colors isn't as nice as the OSSC.


I would do like others have said and check the compatibility first for your tv and the consoles you most want to play with it.


The ossc accepts vga(rgbHV) as well.

It's a tough call. The framiester works on any display but fine tuning the profiles can be confusing.

The ossc can require some fiddling to get it to work (if at all) but if your display supports it there's no confusing post setup.
 

bodine1231

Member
I finally got my PAL Gamecube in and I'm noticing alot of noise on the screen. Is there anything I can do to fix this inside the console? I really don't want to have to return something overseas. I got the new PAL Scart cable from retroconsoleaccesories on eBay thats shielded.

VGzN539l.jpg
 

Peltz

Member
I finally got my PAL Gamecube in and I'm noticing alot of noise on the screen. Is there anything I can do to fix this inside the console? I really don't want to have to return something overseas. I got the new PAL Scart cable from retroconsoleaccesories on eBay thats shielded.

VGzN539l.jpg

That could be due to a poor power supply. Are you using a first party AC adapter?
 

bodine1231

Member
Fuck me,no it's third party. I thought that's what it could be but wasn't positive. Btw I'll do a video for you guys showing how to make adjustments inside a pvm and what not to touch. I need to adjust the focus on my M2U so might as well.
 

Peltz

Member
Fuck me,no it's third party. I thought that's what it could be but wasn't positive. Btw I'll do a video for you guys showing how to make adjustments inside a pvm and what not to touch. I need to adjust the focus on my M2U so might as well.

Thanks! I'd really appreciate that. My 20M2U is a bit soft/unfocused in the center compared to the edges.
 

Rirse

Neo Member
Where can you get a good Gamecube power adapter these days anyway? I am using a third party one that Disc Replay gave me when I bought my NTSC Gamecube on my Pal Gamecube.
 
Ah, in addition to the fact there is a wire terminating to the actual case of my PVM, the focus dial is essentially inaccessible, being positioned mere inches behind the input output board, snug next to the anode termination.

I'd have to adjust it, hook it up again, compare it, then open it back up and adjust it again. I'm just going to not mess with it, it isn't nearly that bad that I'd be willing to be that particular with the process.
 

Peltz

Member
21317933_10101947302207670_7367979925280618670_n.jpg


New steel cart for CRT goodness. Just put it together tonight.

Not sure what I'm going to do about my 20m2u on the right though. My 14m2u is going to rest on top and double up as a tate monitor (if I ever get into shmups). Otherwise, it's just there because why the hell not?

And of course, the crown jewel, Mr. PVM 20l5 sits in the center at perfect eye level. :*)

Putting the 20m2u on the bottom would just be silly wouldn't it?

200.gif
 
21317933_10101947302207670_7367979925280618670_n.jpg


New steel cart for CRT goodness. Just put it together tonight.

Not sure what I'm going to do about my 20m2u on the right though. My 14m2u is going to rest on top and double up as a tate monitor (if I ever get into shmups). Otherwise, it's just there because why the hell not?

And of course, the crown jewel, Mr. PVM 20l5 sits in the center at perfect eye level. :*)

Putting the 20m2u on the bottom would just be silly wouldn't it?

200.gif
i can't wait to check it out!!!
 

dhonk

Member
Oh noooooooooooooooooo!

Whats wrong with my SNES Jr's audio :C I just put in retrofixes RGB board, and was playing DKC happily until I heard some weird shit in the music. High pitched parts get really fucked up?? I totally didnt notice before the mod cause Super Mario World sounded fine when I got the system. I slammed in LTTP to rule out the cart but it did it was even worse! Help. :C

https://youtu.be/Em98GoLLHeI
 

Danny Dudekisser

I paid good money for this Dynex!
Then get a VCR and watch Destinos to learn Spanish. That show really shit the bed after the first 5 or so episodes. The absolute lowlight of Spanish class.
 
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