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Retro AV Club Thread 2: Classic Gaming Done Right!

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Timu

Member
Life's too short for that kinda thinking, at least when it comes to retro (new games are of course a different thing). Flashcarts honestly saved me from obsessive-compulsive game collecting where I was more focused in looking at pretty boxes on my shelf than actually playing games.
Yeah, pretty much this.

However I still buy retro games.
 

Peltz

Member
I've got an itch to buy a widescreen BVM (or PVM if they made those too?) How fucked am I in that endeavor?

I do love my 20L5 though, it's wonderful

I've only seen 2-3 widescreen BVMs out in the wild in the in NYC since I fell down this rabbit hole 3 years ago. That should tell you something.

They DO exist, but they will definitely command a hefty premium, especially if they have the input modules and good geometry - which will be less likely than 4:3 sets, considering their shape. I've never actually seen a widescreen CRT (even on consumer sets) that had geometry that didn't suck.

Good luck!
 
I've only seen 2-3 widescreen BVMs out in the wild in the in NYC since I fell down this rabbit hole 3 years ago. That should tell you something.

They DO exist, but they will definitely command a hefty premium, especially if they have the input modules and good geometry - which will be less likely than 4:3 sets, considering their shape. I've never actually seen a widescreen CRT (even on consumer sets) that had geometry that didn't suck.

Good luck!
Good feedback! I appreciate it. Probably not worth chasing down!
 

Peltz

Member
How does one even come across something like that? I'd buy one.
There's three more in NYC. One is factory sealed. The others are new in box and barely used. All the packaging is still there too plus the foam and everything. These things are spotless with perfect geometry.

Pm me and I'll hook you up with details. You'll pay a premium, but these things are basically untouched. So it's worth it in this case.

The people who own them are downright meticulous in how they handle them. Ive honestly never seen anything like it. They don't even put them on the floor. Always on a price of cardboard instead then re-wrapped up
 

Snazzy

Neo Member
There's three more in NYC. One is factory sealed. The others are new in box and barely used. All the packaging is still there too plus the foam and everything. These things are spotless with perfect geometry.

Pm me and I'll hook you up with details. You'll pay a premium, but these things are basically untouched. So it's worth it in this case.

The people who own them are downright meticulous in how they handle them. Ive honestly never seen anything like it. They don't even put them on the floor. Always on a price of cardboard instead then re-wrapped up

That's awesome. Pants off and Pm sent!
 

Peltz

Member
I stayed up all night playing. I'm drunk on image quality and sleep deprivation.

I almost wish I bought two of them, even at such a high price. It's going to be the saddest day if this thing ever dies on me.

Worth every penny. 240p scanlines are just other-worldly on this thing too.
 

Peltz

Member
For PS3 and Xbox 360 games, is there any way to force a game's native resolution if it's under 720p?


I was thinking about trying some 720p/1080i games on the 20l5. Namely the following:

Demon's Souls
Wonderful 101
Xenoblade Chronicles X
Super Mario 3D World
Ninja Gaiden 2
Catherine
Super Mario Maker
etc.

I doubt it will replace my 60 inch as the go to display for this sort of stuff, but it could be neat just for the lolz.
 
For PS3 and Xbox 360 games, is there any way to force a game's native resolution if it's under 720p?


I was thinking about trying some 720p/1080i games on the 20l5. Namely the following:

Demon's Souls
Wonderful 101
Xenoblade Chronicles X
Super Mario 3D World
Ninja Gaiden 2
Catherine
Super Mario Maker
etc.

I doubt it will replace my 60 inch as the go to display for this sort of stuff, but it could be neat just for the lolz.

To my knowledge there is no way to force the games internal resolution as it is automatically scaled whatever resolution you set in the console settings. I've never heard of any way to do it through homebrew either.

Also pretty jelly that you got a new in box 480 pvm :p. Congrats Peltz! I still need to secure a 480P monitor one day and will probably settle for a computer monitor with a component->VGA adapter

Also, I have played all of those games except Catherine and love them all dearly.
 

Kawika

Member
correct me if i'm wrong but i don't think you can.

the F1U has 900 lines, the 20L5 800,
maybe the 20L5 is more comparable to the 800 line BVM 20G1U that i have.

According to Savon-Pat, the picture tube is the exact same on the 20F1U and the 20L5. Even he was saying the 800 vs 900 was suspect. I can honestly say, the 20L5 that I have is better than the 20F1U I had.
 

Peltz

Member
Some untouched cell phone shots and my initial impressions below. As always, pictures just can't do this CRT screen justice! Colors are way more vibrant in person. Click to enlarge:

21150126_10101940873820210_3277340849075309102_n.jpg


21150451_10101940873006840_3100856747981900308_n.jpg



21106768_10101940868865140_2865552609940513356_n.jpg


21150088_10101940868860150_6541877270518917230_n.jpg


21192664_10101940875796250_466593816916707118_n.jpg

Some thoughts:

So, I've played 480p upscaled on a fixed pixel display since 2003 or so when I got my first 720p LCD screen. Then I switched back to 480i about 3 years ago when I got my first PVM and felt like it was worth the tradeoff of not having a scaled image. There were less jaggies and seeing assets in 480i native on a CRT felt like it was closer to what the developers intended than seeing assets in 480p, upscaled to 1080p. I thought that there wasn't much difference between 480i and 480p as long as you had a high quality signal like component or RGB and a high quality display like a standard def Sony PVM. Basically, the reason why is because I thought that the difference in temporal resolution only meant that you get the same exact image in 480i as 480p but with a bit more visual "noise."

Now that I'm seeing 480p in a properly native EDTV sync, however, my opinion has changed... a lot. By having a higher temporal resolution, 480p allows you to see way more detail than what is possible in 480i. This is true in several instances I've already noticed: With regard to ground texture work, for example, the ground textures in Super Mario Galaxy are far more distinct and visible. You can see distinct textures drawn onto the ground as you play that just don't really hold together when the game is in motion in 480i. With regard to panning the camera in 30 FPS games- well, in 480i, panning the camera in Xenoblade Chronicles causes details to basically fall apart. You can actually see every other row of the pixels "catching up" to the camera when panning. In 480p, by contrast, everything remains "whole" and easier to see.

It is also true with regard to text. Small is almost "hazy" in 480i with how much noise is generated. In 480p, however, it looks exactly how you'd expect to and is far easier on the eyes. Overall, I'd say the picture looks more like HD than SD. It's a true half step between the two formats, as opposed to my previous notion - that it was almost the same as 480i.

And it's amazing how minimal the jaggies are in 480p. They're definitely still there and you can easily see them if you have enough of a trained eye (which everyone in this thread certainly does). But damn, it almost looks HD because it's so sharp and smooth. And the colors are so deep and rich that it's almost like liquid (I really can't think of any other way to describe it).

TL,DR: I used to think that there isn't a big difference between 480i on a SDTV and 480p on a EDTV, but it really does look like double the resolution in person and 480p is a true half way point between 480i and 720p.
 

Peltz

Member
Anyone know if this adds significant input lag? I would be using it for my Xbox to play games that are fairly timing sensitive(Soul Calibur, SF3, NGB, Unreal Championship 2)

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7113

edit: ^Yea, progressive almost always looks better IMO for 6th gen console games that support it!

It probably will. I'd use this instead:

https://www.beharbros.com/garo

It will be lag free and worth the price. There won't be any scaling though so don't try to feed a 480i signal into your VGA monitor - it won't work.

Although the monoprice converter is cheaper, there's a pretty good chance you will be unhappy with the results. The beharbros option, however, is a very safe bet. They only make good gaming stuff.

How is the PVM-14L2? I am eyeing one right now and want to put it next to my desktop for retro gaming.

If it's in good condition then it should be a great set for 240p and 480i. It's 600 lines, so it will be sharper and have more distinct scanlines than consumer CRTs, but not the super-insanely sharp look of the BVM monitors. Basically, it will have a very high quality look while still being authentic. If you grew up in the arcade, it will be similar to some of the sets used in the mid to late 90s. 600 lines is a near perfect balance of sharpness and color bleed for 240p content in my opinion. I have two monitors with 600 lines and I will never let them go or stop playing SD content on them even though I'm blowing up the thread with my new 800 line beast (it's a bit too razor sharp in some ways).

Really, it all comes down to what condition it's in. That's the most important thing. If it's in good condition, then I can't imagine you'd be unhappy playing on it.
 
According to Savon-Pat, the picture tube is the exact same on the 20F1U and the 20L5. Even he was saying the 800 vs 900 was suspect. I can honestly say, the 20L5 that I have is better than the 20F1U I had.
i thought it'd prob be the same between the G1 and F1, it's minimal difference anyways between 800-900 for 240p/480i.
 

Peltz

Member
Now that the adrenaline of owning a 20l5 is starting to subside (only slightly lol), if I'm being perfectly honest, it feels like overkill for 240p content. It's just so sharp that it's like... too much. It's almost like having fake scanlines on an emulator. They kind of get in the way of the artwork on my humble opinion.

I've really never seen anything like it. It's almost like it's scaling the image in HD, but it's still natively rendered at the same time. I know some of you like that. But it's kind of too much.

Like I love scanlines as much as the next guy, but it's like a breast man dating a chick with an E or F sized rack. Even if it's all natural, it can be too much of a good thing.
 

Peltz

Member
/shudders

"Artisanal" omg, I can't stop thinking of hipsters right now :p
You're in a thread full of people playing outdated tech on outdated devices because it's "more authentic" than the dozens of more convenient/modern alternatives.

You're in hipster denial, dude.
 

bodine1231

Member
Now that the adrenaline of owning a 20l5 is starting to subside (only slightly lol), if I'm being perfectly honest, it feels like overkill for 240p content. It's just so sharp that it's like... too much. It's almost like having fake scanlines on an emulator. They kind of get in the way of the artwork on my humble opinion.

I've really never seen anything like it. It's almost like it's scaling the image in HD, but it's still natively rendered at the same time. I know some of you like that. But it's kind of too much.

Like I love scanlines as much as the next guy, but it's like a breast man dating a chick with an E or F sized rack. Even if it's all natural, it can be too much of a good thing.

That's why I got rid of mine and my 20F1U. I like the extra sharpness but the scanlines were too dark and distracting. I think the 20M4U is the perfect balance.
 

Peltz

Member
That's why I got rid of mine and my 20F1U. I like the extra sharpness but the scanlines were too dark and distracting. I think the 20M4U is the perfect balance.

What other PVMs and BVMs have you owned?

Isn't the 20M4U just as sharp as the 20l5? It's 800 lines.

I have a 14m2u and 20m2u which were basicaly the lower resolution-600 line versions of the M4U series.
 

Rirse

Neo Member
It probably will. I'd use this instead:

https://www.beharbros.com/garo

It will be lag free and worth the price. There won't be any scaling though so don't try to feed a 480i signal into your VGA monitor - it won't work.

Although the monoprice converter is cheaper, there's a pretty good chance you will be unhappy with the results. The beharbros option, however, is a very safe bet. They only make good gaming stuff.



If it's in good condition then it should be a great set for 240p and 480i. It's 600 lines, so it will be sharper and have more distinct scanlines than consumer CRTs, but not the super-insanely sharp look of the BVM monitors. Basically, it will have a very high quality look while still being authentic. If you grew up in the arcade, it will be similar to some of the sets used in the mid to late 90s. 600 lines is a near perfect balance of sharpness and color bleed for 240p content in my opinion. I have two monitors with 600 lines and I will never let them go or stop playing SD content on them even though I'm blowing up the thread with my new 800 line beast (it's a bit too razor sharp in some ways).

Really, it all comes down to what condition it's in. That's the most important thing. If it's in good condition, then I can't imagine you'd be unhappy playing on it.

That good to hear. It looks to be in great condition from the seller.
 
It probably will. I'd use this instead:

https://www.beharbros.com/garo

It will be lag free and worth the price. There won't be any scaling though so don't try to feed a 480i signal into your VGA monitor - it won't work.

Although the monoprice converter is cheaper, there's a pretty good chance you will be unhappy with the results. The beharbros option, however, is a very safe bet. They only make good gaming stuff.

Thanks, I'll check it out, but looks like it won't be an impulse buy(I'll have save a bit of money over the next month and buy it). I didn't plan on feeding anything from it in 480i and as far as I know nearly all xbox games(at least the ones worth their salt) natively support 480p without having to be forced through a modded xbox.

What other PVMs and BVMs have you owned?

Isn't the 20M4U just as sharp as the 20l5? It's 800 lines.

I have a 14m2u and 20m2u which were basicaly the lower resolution-600 line versions of the M4U series.

I have the 20m2u as well. I love it to bits but feel that it's not super bright like my standard CRT that just bleeds light.
 

bodine1231

Member
What other PVMs and BVMs have you owned?

Isn't the 20M4U just as sharp as the 20l5? It's 800 lines.

I have a 14m2u and 20m2u which were basicaly the lower resolution-600 line versions of the M4U series.

Might be the same lines but it's a different tube. The 20L5 looked noticeably sharper than my M4 side by side. Let's see,I've owned

M2u
M2mdu
M4u
1954q
20l5
2030
20f1u
14l2
14l1
1394q

I'd say the 20L5 is overall best because of the versatility and looks. The M4U is the best bang for buck.
 

Peltz

Member
Playing Wonderful 101 on my new CRT.

0_0

I may actually shed a tear for this. It's a thing of beauty. I thought I knew how good games could look, but I was wrong. This is hype af.
 
That could very well be old caps. My M2U is bright as hell. Have you tried increasing the screen pot on the fly back?

I have no idea what that is. I do have a brightness knob on the front of my screen and it gets more than bright enough for my needs when I have it about 75% up. I just figured it looks pretty dark at the default brightness(50%).
 

bodine1231

Member
I have no idea what that is. I do have a brightness knob on the front of my screen and it gets more than bright enough for my needs when I have it about 75% up. I just figured it looks pretty dark at the default brightness(50%).

It should be. Are you using RGB or component? If component try changing the component level in the menu. You could also try increasing sub-bright and sub-contrast in the service menu. There Are two knobs on your fly back (google it) when you take off the case that's used to adjust focus and brightness.
 

Peltz

Member
It should be. Are you using RGB or component? If component try changing the component level in the menu. You could also try increasing sub-bright and sub-contrast in the service menu. There Are two knobs on your fly back (google it) when you take off the case that's used to adjust focus and brightness.

There's a focus knob!? Damn. I wish I weren't so deathly afraid of death or I'd open my 20m2u to adjust it.
 
It should be. Are you using RGB or component? If component try changing the component level in the menu. You could also try increasing sub-bright and sub-contrast in the service menu. There Are two knobs on your fly back (google it) when you take off the case that's used to adjust focus and brightness.
Currently reading an article I found on Google about safety precautions. I'll try the service menu first as well because the precautions listed to adjust the flyback seem scary.

Edit: also I am using component, but the brightness issue is with s-video as well so it's probably not just the component settings.
 

bodine1231

Member
Currently reading an article I found on Google about safety precautions. I'll try the service menu first as well because the precautions listed to adjust the flyback seem scary.

Edit: also I am using component, but the brightness issue is with s-video as well so it's probably not just the component settings.

Adjusting the knobs on the flyback is safe,just don't touch the anode cap on top of the tube. You can do this while the monitor is running,just set everything to stock and adjust. You can use a plastic screwdriver or plastic knife to be extra safe but its not necessary.

You should still try changing the component level first,I'm betting thats whats making your picture too dark,there is also and adjustment for the Svideo in the service menu. I think its under NTSC but I'm not positive.

There's a focus knob!? Damn. I wish I weren't so deathly afraid of death or I'd open my 20m2u to adjust it.

Yeah usually its the middle of the screen that becomes soft over time. Adjusting the focus pot usually clears this up otherwise its a cap.
 

Peltz

Member
Does anyone know of a good stand with wheels for a 14 or 20" PVM? I have too many CRTs and need to get organized. Something relatively slim that can still hold a PVM would be appreciated.
 

Morfeo

The Chuck Norris of Peace
Now that the adrenaline of owning a 20l5 is starting to subside (only slightly lol), if I'm being perfectly honest, it feels like overkill for 240p content. It's just so sharp that it's like... too much. It's almost like having fake scanlines on an emulator. They kind of get in the way of the artwork on my humble opinion.

I've really never seen anything like it. It's almost like it's scaling the image in HD, but it's still natively rendered at the same time. I know some of you like that. But it's kind of too much.

Like I love scanlines as much as the next guy, but it's like a breast man dating a chick with an E or F sized rack. Even if it's all natural, it can be too much of a good thing.

Can it?
 

dubc35

Member
Does anyone know of a good stand with wheels for a 14 or 20" PVM? I have too many CRTs and need to get organized. Something relatively slim that can still hold a PVM would be appreciated.
I have a 20" on an end table that sits on those furntiture moving pads so it slides easily on carpet. It's not the most elegant solution but it works for me.

I built a couple end tables from an old dining room table top and black iron pipe a couple months ago. They work ok but I would have beefed them up for 20" crt duty as well as adding casters.

I guess it depends on what fits in to your room. Grainger.com has industrial type stuff as well as globalindustrial.com. Wire shelving is an option with added casters. DIY something. Thrift shop an end table or coffee table.
 

Peltz

Member
Thanks for the suggestion dubc35. I think I'm going to buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Q1M6A8/?tag=neogaf0e-20


I'm going to put the 20l5 on the top shelf, and the 20m2u on the middle shelf.... because why not? The top shelf has a max height of 42 inches. So there should be plenty of room on that second shelf for an 18" tall Pvm while still being able to play both at reasonably-close-to-eye-level when seated. (or maybe I should put the 20l5 on the middle shelf? Hmmm... not sure yet).

Bonus points for the old school classroom feel lol. My only question is, do you think it will be sturdy enough? It's made of steel, but only weighs 25 lbs. Two PVMs is a shit load of weight and it doesn't mention max capacity.
 
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