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Retro AV Club Thread 2: Classic Gaming Done Right!

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Kawika

Member
Hey guys, Peltz just texted me some pics to share as he is out of the office and asked if i can post it on his behalf to supplement the conversation:

20L5
nZHvfmkh.jpg






20m2u
QWk8EX3h.jpg



have at it and continue away on the discussion =)

Mine is similar and I have to say, I find the 20L5's scan lines to be superior. The beef's peltz has with it are quite opposite for me. I absolutely love how sharp it is. I love the thicker scan lines. The color seems to be more vibrant than my 20F1U.
 

Peltz

Member
Thanks Dave!

Okay. It's super subtle, but take a look at the color yellow in each shot. The 20l5 is slightly cooler and I think it's caused by the size of the scanlines along with a slight difference in black level.
 

bodine1231

Member
That looks about right. Ones 800 lines ones 600,the 600 will look softer. That's why many people don't like the look of BVM's because the lines are so harsh and distinct,if you told me that was a pic from an OSSC I'd believe you. The L5 has the same picture as a 20F1U.

Thanks Dave!

Okay. It's super subtle, but take a look at the color yellow in each shot. The 20l5 is slightly cooler and I think it's caused by the size of the scanlines along with a slight difference in black level.

Its just a calibration issue,the "slightly cooler" that you mentioned can be stamped out. There are menu's upon menu's for that sort of thing. Maybe dropping the Green gain will bring the blacks down. Green gain has a tendency to make blacks brighter,at least on arcade monitors I've had. There are tons and tons and tons of little tweaks like that that can have an effect on the picture. Are they both set to D65? Kinda looks like the top is D65 and the bottom is D93.
 
I actually kind of prefer the 'scan lines' (gaps between rasters) to be a little thinner, but I still have love for the monitors like the Sony PVM-20L5 and JVC DT-V1710CGU. The focus is so tight because these monitors also do high-definition, not just 240p and 480i. The rasters don't even touch in 480p mode on these!

No monitor anybody gamed on back in the day, including 240p computer monitors from Commodore (Amiga) and Atari (ST) actually looked anything like that, though. Even if you were using a broadcast monitor in the 90s you'd never actually see 'scan lines' that thick (aka so much space between the actual scanlines or raster).

So, they aren't authentic looking, but personal preference is nobody's business but your own.
 

Peltz

Member
That looks about right. Ones 800 lines ones 600,the 600 will look softer. That's why many people don't like the look of BVM's because the lines are so harsh and distinct,if you told me that was a pic from an OSSC I'd believe you. The L5 has the same picture as a 20F1U.



Its just a calibration issue,the "slightly cooler" that you mentioned can be stamped out. There are menu's upon menu's for that sort of thing. Maybe dropping the Green gain will bring the blacks down. Green gain has a tendency to make blacks brighter,at least on arcade monitors I've had. There are tons and tons and tons of little tweaks like that that can have an effect on the picture. Are they both set to D65? Kinda looks like the top is D65 and the bottom is D93.
Both are D65. I may want to go into a user preset to configure the temp a bit warmer for my tastes. I was thinking of increasing the red rather than decreasing the green though.

Is there anywhere that I can read up on how to do this properly?
 

bodine1231

Member
Oh by the way I FINALLY got my Pal gamecube in and tried it out with the framemeister. It looks great! I'm still noticing some rolling noise on the signal though,it has to be from the XRGB because I don't see it on my PVM. The previous owner included a sync stripper which taps into the power of the XRGB,that has to be whats causing it. I don't have a normal scart connector for it to test though.

Also,there's a trick to zooming the picture while keeping small thin scanlines on the mini...just resize it using the TV's zoom and not the XRGB! When you zoom on the XRGB it also thins out the scanlines and makes them wider,basically unusable. This gives me great hope for the OSSC when I get the new one next week. The only reason I use an XRGB was for zooming gba,doesnt look like I'll need it if this works.


Fusion on a 55" zoomed with thin scanlines.
NtNy9quh.jpg
 

Peltz

Member
Oh by the way I FINALLY got my Pal gamecube in and tried it out with the framemeister. It looks great! I'm still noticing some rolling noise on the signal though,it has to be from the XRGB because I don't see it on my PVM. The previous owner included a sync stripper which taps into the power of the XRGB,that has to be whats causing it. I don't have a normal scart connector for it to test though.

Also,there's a trick to zooming the picture while keeping small thin scanlines on the mini...just resize it using the TV's zoom and not the XRGB! When you zoom on the XRGB it also thins out the scanlines and makes them wider,basically unusable. This gives me great hope for the OSSC when I get the new one next week. The only reason I use an XRGB was for zooming gba,doesnt look like I'll need it if this works.


Fusion on a 55" zoomed with thin scanlines.
NtNy9quh.jpg
If I had your stash, I wouldn't waste my time with upscalers. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad they exist and that I have one myself. And I would consider an OSSC too someday.

But man... I hope I never actually have to use them.
 

bodine1231

Member
If I had your stash, I wouldn't waste my time with upscalers. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad they exist and that I have one myself. And I would consider an OSSC too someday.

But man... I hope I never actually have to use them.

Its just for the GBA. And sometimes its nice to play on a big ass screen
 
Oh by the way I FINALLY got my Pal gamecube in and tried it out with the framemeister. It looks great! I'm still noticing some rolling noise on the signal though,it has to be from the XRGB because I don't see it on my PVM. The previous owner included a sync stripper which taps into the power of the XRGB,that has to be whats causing it. I don't have a normal scart connector for it to test though.

Also,there's a trick to zooming the picture while keeping small thin scanlines on the mini...just resize it using the TV's zoom and not the XRGB! When you zoom on the XRGB it also thins out the scanlines and makes them wider,basically unusable. This gives me great hope for the OSSC when I get the new one next week. The only reason I use an XRGB was for zooming gba,doesnt look like I'll need it if this works.


Fusion on a 55" zoomed with thin scanlines.
NtNy9quh.jpg

Doesn't Gameboy Interface have options for zooming?
 

Yes Boss!

Member
Mine is similar and I have to say, I find the 20L5's scan lines to be superior. The beef's peltz has with it are quite opposite for me. I absolutely love how sharp it is. I love the thicker scan lines. The color seems to be more vibrant than my 20F1U.

Same here. My 20L5 has this exceedingly pleasing vibrant look for 240p stuff. I love it.
 
No. The TV can't handle the scan rate. GBA too incompatible.

My TV handles ULL 240p component at the wrong aspect ratio for some reason. I corrected it using the zoom functions and played for a while and couldn't find any issues. Ultimately it was just easier to use LL and not have to have a weird probably slightly wrong aspect ratio correction.
 
My TV handles ULL 240p component at the wrong aspect ratio for some reason. I corrected it using the zoom functions and played for a while and couldn't find any issues. Ultimately it was just easier to use LL and not have to have a weird probably slightly wrong aspect ratio correction.

That's because of the scan rate.

Look there might be a couple of sets out there that can handle it but it's gonna be quite atypical.
 

bodine1231

Member
Saw this little guy at the thrift store today for $5,couldn't believe it. I've never seen one in person this small. It powered on but the screen was dead so I left it. It had RGB,Svideo and composite too! I bet the picture is insanely sharp on a tube this small.

GBwImbdl.jpg


2KB8jQJl.jpg
 
If I had your stash, I wouldn't waste my time with upscalers. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad they exist and that I have one myself. And I would consider an OSSC too someday.

But man... I hope I never actually have to use them.

Each to their own, but my 20L5 sits in the corner as a table for controllers right now since i bought an oled tv and paired with the ossc.

Just cannot beat a big screen display no matter what imo.
 

Rydeen

Member
Saw this little guy at the thrift store today for $5,couldn't believe it. I've never seen one in person this small. It powered on but the screen was dead so I left it. It had RGB,Svideo and composite too! I bet the picture is insanely sharp on a tube this small.

GBwImbdl.jpg


2KB8jQJl.jpg

I have one, found a bunch of them at Goodwill a couple years ago for $25 each, bought one for me and one for a friend. They're awesome little sets and very sharp for the size, but the fidelity is less impressive since it is only an 8" display. I'll update with pic of it when I get home.
 
Played some FDS with FDSStick last night and noticed my RAM adapter and console (RBG modded AV) were quite hot when I turned them off. Anything to worry about there or is that normal?
 
Mine is similar and I have to say, I find the 20L5's scan lines to be superior. The beef's peltz has with it are quite opposite for me. I absolutely love how sharp it is. I love the thicker scan lines. The color seems to be more vibrant than my 20F1U.

yeah the 20L5 is the holy grail IMO.

Was too bad the one I bought had a bad red gun, had to return it.
 
White kind of power adapter are you using?

The official Genesis model 1 adapter, which seems to be the most often recommended. Plugged into a power strip with several other components in my setup, but only the TV and 2.1 stereo system are also on at the same time as any one console.
 

Yes Boss!

Member
Finally got around to putting the jailbreak firmware on my analogue mini. I don't have a computer so I finally had a coworker help me out. Enjoying it on the 20L5 with component. Pretty dope!

JMwm1H6.jpg


hehLj7C.jpg
 

SKINNER!

Banned
Sorry to ask again about the framemeister but I'm a little confused with the Solaris website. Has anyone from the UK able to order one from the site? There's two options to purchase. A normal one and a "EU tax free" version. Does the EU Tax free version apply to the UK too? It costs a little more but I presume its to prevent your item from stopping at customs. But given its labelled EU and UK customs operates differently to the EU I really don't want to pay more for the item only for it to stop at UK customs because I'm supposed to pay tax on it. Also, are prices on Solaris dependent on a currency conversion or is the £ they advertise set by them? Wondering if there's an advantage for me to pay with a different currency.
 

Kawika

Member
So, has anyone ever tried converting HDMI to SDI? There are a ton of options out there. Anything lag-free?

I was actually wondering about getting HDMI to component in a good way. I've seen HDMI to component cables and powered converters. Anyone know have anything they've had decent luck with?

I have never heard anything about SDI for gaming even though I've had a few of those cards for various bvms through the years.
 

Peltz

Member
I was actually wondering about getting HDMI to component in a good way. I've seen HDMI to component cables and powered converters. Anyone know have anything they've had decent luck with?

I have never heard anything about SDI for gaming even though I've had a few of those cards for various bvms through the years.

I figured HDMI can more cleanly be converted to SDI than Component because it's all digital.

In my mind, going from digital to analogue has to be more complicated than any other conversion.
 
I figured HDMI can more cleanly be converted to SDI than Component because it's all digital.

In my mind, going from digital to analogue has to be more complicated than any other conversion.
Dont most devices that generate an analog output convert it from digital
 
Dont most devices that generate an analog output convert it from digital

Like if you want to see or listen to anything everything eventually has to become analog.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I do believe all video signals output by any game console are digital. That's how we are able to get things like N64hdmi, NESRGB etc

Depends what you mean by "output." Most consoles have a digital version of the video output that goes chip-to-chip to be converted to analog voltage. Frequently that is converted to RGBS analog and then from there to composite & etc.

NESRGB is the perfect case of where that doesn't happen at all. To save cost or something the PPU takes commands from the CPU and out of the chip comes composite video. Somewhere in the chip a digital verson of the NTSC color space (YIQ) is generated but it's never available outside the PPU itself. NESRGB takes the commands given to the PPU and instead generates RGB color version of the same thing, minus some color error.
 

bodine1231

Member
Anyone interested in a Framemeister? I bought it on eBay to do some lag tests and don't need it now. I'll let it go for what I paid for it with free UPS ground shipping. ($375) Comes with JP21 and Euro Scart w/sync stripper.
 
RetroUSB released a news update about the AVS, they've started to ship them out

After almost 8 months of waiting, I finally get one, on the same day as the Nintendo Direct too

Anyone interested in a Framemeister? I bought it on eBay to do some lag tests and don't need it now. I'll let it go for what I paid for it with free UPS ground shipping. ($375) Comes with JP21 and Euro Scart w/sync stripper.

That's a pretty good deal considering that's the price you'd normally have to pay for the Framemeister by itself, and the sync stripper cable costs around an extra $30
 
I thought I should ask here since you all are screen pixel experts.

There was something that felt a bit wrong with my Super Famicom when it comes to picture quality, and upon further inspection I can see that half of the screen has this weird "noise" or "grain". It is very visible when there is a dark or light coloured screen. The scanlines help to migitate the appearance but it kinda rubs me wrong.

I am guessing this might be a hardware problem? I admit I bought a modified SFC from ebay over a year ago, and using a generic power adapter that they sold in Akihabara. The video cable is a Csync Japanese Scart cable and I am playing through a Framemeister.

Is there a possibility of a simple fix, or my only choice is to replace with another Super Famicom. Not really interested in buying another SFC anytime soon, but I guess I have learned my lesson from buying modded consoles on ebay.

Heres some pics for your judgement:
UH1j2w.jpg


Not very visible on this scene from Rockman and Bass:
9inwkf.jpg
 
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