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Retro AV Club Thread 2: Classic Gaming Done Right!

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Rirse

Neo Member
Guys,so,like,I just spent all of the money I've earned (and more) on a pallet of BVM's


UDOBLddl.jpg


I'm super fucking nervous right now,lol. I have no idea if these work or not and getting them shipped here safety is going to give me a damn heartattack. I'm honestly considering taking a whole week off work and renting a van and just drive 2500+ miles to pick it up. I was quoted ~$500 for Fedex Freight on Uship.com (both me and the seller have forklift and dock) which is reasonable but I'm so terrified of damage. Driving from Louisiana to Washington would be insane but I could guarantee their safety and see the country as a bonus. It would cost a bit more in gas and the rental as well. I don't know what to do.

I also spent way way more on this than I intended to but something like this is so freaking rare I had to jump it. I figure if they are all dead I can get with Savon-pat to have them fixed,fix it myself or just sell them broken for $350 and maybe break even. I may also eBay my M4U and 2030 as well as my RGB NES to help pay for this. I'll rebuy my consoles back later as I sell these and just slum it on the Wii. Also,if you live on the way from Louisiana to WA and want to buy a BVM (and I decide to drive) hit me up and maybe we can meet and not risk shipping it. I posted this in the CRT Reddit thread and have a couple people interested in picking one up on the way back so thats a plus for driving there I guess.

Sorry for rambling,this is the biggest financial risk I've ever taken (not really,playing with house money at this point,but still) and not sure what to do.

Retrogaf please
tumblr_o3ndr6LfM91uuj1vto1_500.gif

Jeez you have crazy luck with the PVM. I just got one and was happy to even win it on ebay for under 200 shipped. I say drive, as there just nothing like a cross country drive. Plus you can at least find out quickly if they work at the hotel.
 

TheShinobi

Neo Member
I recently order a fairly cheap, but with some physical damage, 13" pvm-1353MD. Does anybody know if this is a good model? Its my first pvm and im both nervous and excited for it.
 

Fallen92

Member
So I wasn't sure where to ask but I have a weird problem with my SNES. I took it apart to clean out some of the dust and now when I put the top casing on it, it doesn't boot. When I removed it though, it works fine. It's a really weird problem I'm not sure what's wrong. I've never heard of this happening before. Any ideas what might be wrong?
 

Peltz

Member
Those are some solid choices, and I think a sealed sub was absolutely the way to go... particularly in light of being in a smaller apartment. Boomy, shitty bass is just annoying as hell.

Edit: Oh, and if it wasn't already on the list, definitely get a SubDude for that thing. Gets rid of unwanted resonances (particularly useful in an apartment, of course), and makes the bass sound cleaner. I've got one for both of my setups, and can't imagine going without.
Yea, although I don't think Hsu's ported subs would sound boomy or shitty at all (they are so darn versatile) for my tastes in music (mostly jazz and classical), I want the cleanest and most musical sounding subwoofer possible. I do still think this sub will kick the shit out of you if you let it though. Chances are, I'll have the gain turned way down anyway. I like a lean, tight sound from my subwoofers. So that's why I went with a sealed option.

In all truth, I did hem and haw over which of their subwoofers to get. But I think all of their options are likely going to be great considering I've never owned a subwoofer anywhere near this quality.

And thanks for the recommendation of a SubDude. I'll definitely Pick one up.
 

Acidote

Member
The other day I saw a small 21" Sony CRT tv someone left with a small paper that had "IT WORKS" written on it. I thought I could pick it up and give it to my brother since one of his arcade monitors broke down a few weeks ago, and so I did.
We tested it a little bit (with AV cables until RGBs arrive) and when where done he said "Thank you but this is your CRT, because I just got my arcade monitor repaired. Use it with your PS2 and SNES."

A few days later I start reading this thread and realize what a rabbit hole this is.

What have I done.

By the way the model is KV-21X5E. I hope it's decent, I haven't gotten into the service menu or checked anything else yet.
 
The other day I saw a small 21" Sony CRT tv someone left with a small paper that had "IT WORKS" written on it. I though I could pick it up and give it to my brother since one of his arcade monitors broke down a few weeks ago, and so I did.
We tested it a little bit (with AV cables until RGBs arrive) and when where done he said "Thank you but this is your CRT, because I just got my arcade monitor repaired. Use it with your PS2 and SNES."

A few days later I start reading this thread and realize what a rabbit hole this is.

What have I done.

By the way the model is KV-21X5E. I hope it's decent, I haven't gotten into the service menu or checked anything else yet.

Congrats! I have a newer Sony model than that, but I absolutely love it for retrogaming. The trinitron looks so flat I'd swear it's hardly curved!
 

Danny Dudekisser

I paid good money for this Dynex!
Yea, although I don't think Hsu's ported subs would sound boomy or shitty at all (they are so darn versatile) for my tastes in music (mostly jazz and classical), I want the cleanest and most musical sounding subwoofer possible. I do still think this sub will kick the shit out of you if you let it though. Chances are, I'll have the gain turned way down anyway. I like a lean, tight sound from my subwoofers. So that's why I went with a sealed option.

In all truth, I did hem and haw over which of their subwoofers to get. But I think all of their options are likely going to be great considering I've never owned a subwoofer anywhere near this quality.

And thanks for the recommendation of a SubDude. I'll definitely Pick one up.

My friend had a vented Hsu sub, and I wasn't super impressed by it, but he had it in the corner of his apartment that had a tile floor, which no doubt played a huge role in it sounding as muddy as it did.

But yeah, I'd argue sealed is the way to go for basically every application, honestly. They don't give you as much output, but that's nothing that throwing in a second sub can't solve. And they just sound so clean. I'd never go back.
 

Peltz

Member
My friend had a vented Hsu sub, and I wasn't super impressed by it, but he had it in the corner of his apartment that had a tile floor, which no doubt played a huge role in it sounding as muddy as it did.

But yeah, I'd argue sealed is the way to go for basically every application, honestly. They don't give you as much output, but that's nothing that throwing in a second sub can't solve. And they just sound so clean. I'd never go back.

Tiled floor is definitely are a no no.

Seems like we have similar tastes in subs.

By the way, do you know of a good wall mount for the two rears? The speaker sort of has an awkward shape so I am struggling to find the right mounts.
 

Danny Dudekisser

I paid good money for this Dynex!
Tiled floor is definitely are a no no.

Seems like we have similar tastes in subs.

By the way, do you know of a good wall mount for the two rears? The speaker sort of has an awkward shape so I am struggling to find the right mounts.

Nah, I don't know about wall mounts. Stands aren't an option?
 

Peltz

Member
Nah, I don't know about wall mounts. Stands aren't an option?
I don't think stands would be good. My couch is against the back wall. I was planning to mount the two rears on that same wall wide of the couch and toe them each inward at an extreme angle.

The sound field of the CCB-8s should be wide enough to accommodate that. I'll probably also run those two in sealed mode and leave the rest open.

I'll need to add some treatments to that wall to avoid things from sounding too bouncy. I'm looking into some options that fit my modern decor. But that should work right?
 

Peltz

Member
trade it in for something with analog video outputs
Oh a receiver? Yea I wouldn't trade it in, but you definitely need (at least) one digital device and (at least) one analogue device to select components.

My analogue components will have at least 3 switches all together when all is said and done. I have a scart switch, a component switch, and a BNC matrix switch. Both the scart and component switches will output to the BNC matrix which will then output to my 2 PVMs, my Framemeister, and my HDTVs component input depending on what I'm playing.
 

Peltz

Member
I mainly like the look of it. I already have a NES hooked up but want to use this for Famicom and NES games.
If it's outputting at a minimum resolution of 720p it's never going to look correct on a PVM in my opinion. You're better off selling it for a Famicom AV and playing in composite or modding a Famicom for rgb.

I know everyone in here hates composite, but it's really not so bad on the right display. I'd rather have a too-soft lossy analogue picture for my NES games on a CRT than a too sharp non-native upscaled picture. But that's just me.
 
I mainly like the look of it. I already have a NES hooked up but want to use this for Famicom and NES games.

AVS looks great on an FHD or UHD display (I have one hooked up to my KS8000), but there is no good option for hooking it up to a PVM.

If you already have a NES, I'd see about RGB modding it and buying one of those Famicom converter cartridges.
 

RobotVM

Member
AVS looks great on an FHD or UHD display (I have one hooked up to my KS8000), but there is no good option for hooking it up to a PVM.

If you already have a NES, I'd see about RGB modding it and buying one of those Famicom converter cartridges.

Best play to get a NES RGB modded?
 

Mitama

Member
I got the OSSC at the same time I got a TV. The hardware did go through some revision. The HDMI was integrated instead of going from DVI requiring you to buy a separate HDMI adapter. There was no announcement of firmware (so I had no guarantee it would work). I wanted the tv more for modern gaming so I sold the OSSC to a fellow gaffer. I am sure, if I had that unit, it would function the same. But the main difference is between the two units is another audio input so you can have a dreamcast vga box, scart and component all hooked up at once and still be able to feed all audio inputs at the same time without swapping audio jacks. Also the dvi to hdmi made mounting it awkward to position it where I wanted to.



Yeah like I said above, some hardware upgrades were made but my real decision came months down the line when the better 5x compatibility firmware was announced. My OSSC and TV seemed like it was almost there but I wasn't willing to sit on this thing if it kind of worked. I thought it would be better to sell it and buy another one down the line.

Sorry, it's still not perfectly clear to me. Didn't you get to try the better 5x firmware or did you already sell the OSSC by then? Does it work properly on your X800D now? I'm asking since I have the same set (49" but should be the same compatibility) and I've been following your posts about it for a couple months. :p
 
So this thread is huge and I have a fairly specific setup I'm trying to brainstorm potential issues for. So here goes:

I have a Sony PVM-2950Q. Despite it having been around for years, I've never used the RGB inputs on it; it has 5 BNC style connectors and claims to take both c-sync and h-v-sync.

I have an SNES/SFC and a bunch of arcade boards, and want to set myself up with RGB output from the SNES as well as build a supergun to run arcade boards off the PVM.

Via Google I've been told I need a sync cleaner. What is this and is it actually necessary for all use cases? Or would I want it on the SNES or arcade side only?
 
So this thread is huge and I have a fairly specific setup I'm trying to brainstorm potential issues for. So here goes:

I have a Sony PVM-2950Q. Despite it having been around for years, I've never used the RGB inputs on it; it has 5 BNC style connectors and claims to take both c-sync and h-v-sync.

I have an SNES/SFC and a bunch of arcade boards, and want to set myself up with RGB output from the SNES as well as build a supergun to run arcade boards off the PVM.

Via Google I've been told I need a sync cleaner. What is this and is it actually necessary for all use cases? Or would I want it on the SNES or arcade side only?

I took a look at the monitor's input specs, and it seems to me that the H-sync BNC input accepts composite sync. This means, provided you are purchasing cables that carry an RGB signal with composite sync, you won't need a sync stripper/cleaner. In any case, if you DO need a cleaned sync signal, the seller wookiewin on ebay sells SCART to BNC cables both with a sync cleaner and without. I use the non-sync stripper cables to output to my two PVMs, so I can vouch for them. I have a Sync Strike, too, but I mainly only use it for the VGA output.
 

Danny Dudekisser

I paid good money for this Dynex!
I don't think stands would be good. My couch is against the back wall. I was planning to mount the two rears on that same wall wide of the couch and toe them each inward at an extreme angle.

The sound field of the CCB-8s should be wide enough to accommodate that. I'll probably also run those two in sealed mode and leave the rest open.

I'll need to add some treatments to that wall to avoid things from sounding too bouncy. I'm looking into some options that fit my modern decor. But that should work right?

Ah, right -- in that case, it makes sense. It should be fine to have wall-mounted speakers at a pretty extreme angle, but make sure that the tweeter on the speakers is aimed roughly at ear-level.
 

Kawika

Member
Sorry, it's still not perfectly clear to me. Didn't you get to try the better 5x firmware or did you already sell the OSSC by then? Does it work properly on your X800D now? I'm asking since I have the same set (49" but should be the same compatibility) and I've been following your posts about it for a couple months. :p

When I got my 1st OSSC earlier this year, it didn't work with my 800D. I was happy with the TV for modern gaming and since I already have a XRGB-Mini which worked well on the 800D I decided to sell my 1st OSSC (the one with the dvi port instead of the hdmi). After I sold it, the new hardware revision was announced followed a little while later with the announcement of the firmware that made 5x more compatible with tvs. My 800D would work sometimes but it would dsync a lot.

Fast forward to this week. I have the most recent firmware with the most recent hardware revision of the OSSC and for the most part it works on the 800D. Its not perfect, there are some issues. Mainly I have to use the sync stripper switch on my gsscartsw to get the SNES to work in 5x mode w/o sync issues.

Other than that, there are a few menus you need to navigate for each console you use to get them to work correctly on the 800D.

Recap of my experience

N64& Genesis: I think it works in 2x, 3x, 4x and 5x modes

PS1: Works best in 4x mode. 5x works but looks wrong

PS2: 480i pass through and double works great. 4x is almost there but not quite

SNES: 5x works nearly 100% of the time. I got pass through and 2x to work but I forgot which settings worked best. 3x and 4x didn't work

GC/Wii: 480i pass, 2x works fine. 480p pass and 2x works well. No issues

I haven't tested NES RGB, Dreamcast VGA/RGB or XBOX component.

Keep this in mind, you panel is an IPS (49") mine is a VA (43"). That might affect the outcome of what I found.
 
I took a look at the monitor's input specs, and it seems to me that the H-sync BNC input accepts composite sync. This means, provided you are purchasing cables that carry an RGB signal with composite sync, you won't need a sync stripper/cleaner. In any case, if you DO need a cleaned sync signal, the seller wookiewin on ebay sells SCART to BNC cables both with a sync cleaner and without. I use the non-sync stripper cables to output to my two PVMs, so I can vouch for them. I have a Sync Strike, too, but I mainly only use it for the VGA output.

I was thinking similar; getting SCART cables and using a Sync Strike instead of a simple SCART to VGA/RCA adapter (I already have a VGA to BNC cable the seller of the display threw in). In that scenario, I would just wire my supergun with SCART too. Would I go euro-SCART or J-SCART?
 
I was thinking similar; getting SCART cables and using a Sync Strike instead of a simple SCART to VGA/RCA adapter (I already have a VGA to BNC cable the seller of the display threw in). In that scenario, I would just wire my supergun with SCART too. Would I go euro-SCART or J-SCART?

I've always used euro, but there are a few people on here that use j21. However, I think the most common standard is Euro.
 

Mitama

Member
When I got my 1st OSSC earlier this year, it didn't work with my 800D. I was happy with the TV for modern gaming and since I already have a XRGB-Mini which worked well on the 800D I decided to sell my 1st OSSC (the one with the dvi port instead of the hdmi). After I sold it, the new hardware revision was announced followed a little while later with the announcement of the firmware that made 5x more compatible with tvs. My 800D would work sometimes but it would dsync a lot.

Fast forward to this week. I have the most recent firmware with the most recent hardware revision of the OSSC and for the most part it works on the 800D. Its not perfect, there are some issues. Mainly I have to use the sync stripper switch on my gsscartsw to get the SNES to work in 5x mode w/o sync issues.

Other than that, there are a few menus you need to navigate for each console you use to get them to work correctly on the 800D.

Recap of my experience

N64& Genesis: I think it works in 2x, 3x, 4x and 5x modes

PS1: Works best in 4x mode. 5x works but looks wrong

PS2: 480i pass through and double works great. 4x is almost there but not quite

SNES: 5x works nearly 100% of the time. I got pass through and 2x to work but I forgot which settings worked best. 3x and 4x didn't work

GC/Wii: 480i pass, 2x works fine. 480p pass and 2x works well. No issues

I haven't tested NES RGB, Dreamcast VGA/RGB or XBOX component.

Keep this in mind, you panel is an IPS (49") mine is a VA (43"). That might affect the outcome of what I found.

Sweet! Looking forward to getting one myself, especially for PS2 and Wii!
 

Peltz

Member
I was thinking similar; getting SCART cables and using a Sync Strike instead of a simple SCART to VGA/RCA adapter (I already have a VGA to BNC cable the seller of the display threw in). In that scenario, I would just wire my supergun with SCART too. Would I go euro-SCART or J-SCART?
Never go JP21. Always go Euro.
 

Khaz

Member
JP21 only if you live in Japan and used to be a video engineer over there with plenty access to JP21 hardware. Otherwise it's Scart all the way, even in Asia.

JP21 was a professional standard that never quite caught on. It's not that much more expensive (because it's a deprecated hardware no one wants wants) but much rarer, and no one makes new cables / hardware for it, unlike SCART.

SCART was a consumer standard in Europe and its use was ubiquitous. It may not be the best transport cable and socket, but you can find it everywhere for cheap. And people still make new hardware for it.
 

Peltz

Member
Well, yesterday I woke up and had a free day for the first time in months. So I decided to finally hook up every single system I owned to my setup so that I did not need to keep unhooking/rehooking up my systems. The whole process took me 5+ hours because there was so much stuff and cable management was such a nightmare.

I thought I'd need to buy a whole new shelving unit to make this happen, but it turns out that I was able to fit everything in my current shelf after all! Here's how it all works:

1. SNES, N64, Genesis, Saturn, and Dreamcast via SCART to a Bandridge 5 way switch.
2. PS2, Xbox, Wii, and GCN + GB Player via component to Monoprice 4 way component switch.
3. NES and Famicom + Disk System via Composite to a generic unpowered 3 way AV selector.

4 - Bandrige, Monoprice, and AV switches all output to a Kramer BNC Matrix switch:

5. The Kramer BNC Matrix Switch outputs Composite, RGBs, and Component to my PVMs.

6. The Kramer BNC Matrix Switch outputs Component to my HDTV.

7. The Kramer BNC Matrix Switch will also output RGBs to my Framemeister (after I acquire the necessary adapter).

8. All my HD systems are being handled by my receiver/HDTV via HDMI.



Here's the thing though. I only had 5 SCART sockets in my switch, but I have a 6th SCART system that is not hooked up right now, my Neo Geo CMVS. What should I do to remedy this? I could either:

A. Get another SCART switch and daisy chain it to my bandridge.
B. Get another SCART switch and output it directly via BNC adapter to the Kramer Matrix Switch
C. Get a SCART to BNC adapter and just hook up my CMVS directly to the Kramer Matrix Switch
D. Other (please specify)

What would you do? The reason why I may get another SCART switch is in case I decide to pull the trigger on doing the NES RGB mod. It's just that I haven't really been playing my NES much these days so I'm not sure if I really want to make the investment.
 

dubc35

Member
Reading through your options I was going to suggest Option C with the caveat that you wouldn't be buying anymore scart based systems, but it sounds like you may go NESRGB.

If you went with C, I'm assuming you could do the same for NESRGB as well, correct? You haven't filled all the BNC plugs in that beast have you, lol?

[edit] also share some pics, interested to see all of that hooked up. I'm still a plebeian hooking up one system at a time.
 
Damn, that sounds like a satisfying day!

I agree with option C if you're not getting any more SCART systems. Could you consider dropping N64 to s-video and sending that to your generic AV selector with your composite signals (I assume it has both inputs). I am not an N64 person but I've heard s-vid is pretty good for that system and RGB doesn't add as much as with other consoles. I could be way wrong about that, though.
 

Peltz

Member
Reading through your options I was going to suggest Option C with the caveat that you wouldn't be buying anymore scart based systems, but it sounds like you may go NESRGB.

If you went with C, I'm assuming you could do the same for NESRGB as well, correct? You haven't filled all the BNC plugs in that beast have you, lol?

[edit] also share some pics, interested to see all of that hooked up. I'm still a plebeian hooking up one system at a time.

Yes, I can do option C for both and still have room left over. The only thing is, Scart to BNC connectors each cost $35 or so (unless someone knows where to get them cheap) and I don't feel handy enough to make one myself. So if I buy 2 of them, that's already 70 bucks.

Plus I need to convert the audio to the pheonix block 6-pin standard which runs another 20 bucks or so per stereo connection.

In other words, every time I want to make a new SCART to BNC connection, I'm looking at a $55 investment. So that's why I'm considering daisy chaining another SCART switch and calling it a day. If I go with the bandridge, it's a $60 or so investment, but then I'm set.

And yes, I'll upload some pics later this week. I'm waiting on some longer cables for a few things before wrapping up the placement of each system. Once those come in, I'll take a photo.

Damn, that sounds like a satisfying day!

I agree with option C if you're not getting any more SCART systems. Could you consider dropping N64 to s-video and sending that to your generic AV selector with your composite signals (I assume it has both inputs). I am not an N64 person but I've heard s-vid is pretty good for that system and RGB doesn't add as much as with other consoles. I could be way wrong about that, though.


S-Video is as sharp, but the colors aren't as accurate, so I definitely don't want to downgrade what I'm used to. Sure, the difference is marginal, but I'm a big-time N64 fan and want to keep the best possible connection for it.
 

Rirse

Neo Member
How heavy is the OSSC and Hydra? I got a email from UPS saying a 32 pound item is in tomorrow, but can't think of anything but the Hydra possibly that would be coming that way.

[edit] Nevermind it was my bookshelf that was the mysterious UPS item.
 
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