Danny Dudekisser
I paid good money for this Dynex!
Drive by Chicago on your way home.
Doesn't Chicago have enough drive-bys already?
Drive by Chicago on your way home.
Guys,so,like,I just spent all of the money I've earned (and more) on a pallet of BVM's
I'm super fucking nervous right now,lol. I have no idea if these work or not and getting them shipped here safety is going to give me a damn heartattack. I'm honestly considering taking a whole week off work and renting a van and just drive 2500+ miles to pick it up. I was quoted ~$500 for Fedex Freight on Uship.com (both me and the seller have forklift and dock) which is reasonable but I'm so terrified of damage. Driving from Louisiana to Washington would be insane but I could guarantee their safety and see the country as a bonus. It would cost a bit more in gas and the rental as well. I don't know what to do.
I also spent way way more on this than I intended to but something like this is so freaking rare I had to jump it. I figure if they are all dead I can get with Savon-pat to have them fixed,fix it myself or just sell them broken for $350 and maybe break even. I may also eBay my M4U and 2030 as well as my RGB NES to help pay for this. I'll rebuy my consoles back later as I sell these and just slum it on the Wii. Also,if you live on the way from Louisiana to WA and want to buy a BVM (and I decide to drive) hit me up and maybe we can meet and not risk shipping it. I posted this in the CRT Reddit thread and have a couple people interested in picking one up on the way back so thats a plus for driving there I guess.
Sorry for rambling,this is the biggest financial risk I've ever taken (not really,playing with house money at this point,but still) and not sure what to do.
Retrogaf please
Bro, I think you have a problem.
I recently order a fairly cheap, but with some physical damage, 13" pvm-1353MD. Does anybody know if this is a good model? Its my first pvm and im both nervous and excited for it.
Yea, although I don't think Hsu's ported subs would sound boomy or shitty at all (they are so darn versatile) for my tastes in music (mostly jazz and classical), I want the cleanest and most musical sounding subwoofer possible. I do still think this sub will kick the shit out of you if you let it though. Chances are, I'll have the gain turned way down anyway. I like a lean, tight sound from my subwoofers. So that's why I went with a sealed option.Those are some solid choices, and I think a sealed sub was absolutely the way to go... particularly in light of being in a smaller apartment. Boomy, shitty bass is just annoying as hell.
Edit: Oh, and if it wasn't already on the list, definitely get a SubDude for that thing. Gets rid of unwanted resonances (particularly useful in an apartment, of course), and makes the bass sound cleaner. I've got one for both of my setups, and can't imagine going without.
The other day I saw a small 21" Sony CRT tv someone left with a small paper that had "IT WORKS" written on it. I though I could pick it up and give it to my brother since one of his arcade monitors broke down a few weeks ago, and so I did.
We tested it a little bit (with AV cables until RGBs arrive) and when where done he said "Thank you but this is your CRT, because I just got my arcade monitor repaired. Use it with your PS2 and SNES."
A few days later I start reading this thread and realize what a rabbit hole this is.
What have I done.
By the way the model is KV-21X5E. I hope it's decent, I haven't gotten into the service menu or checked anything else yet.
Yea, although I don't think Hsu's ported subs would sound boomy or shitty at all (they are so darn versatile) for my tastes in music (mostly jazz and classical), I want the cleanest and most musical sounding subwoofer possible. I do still think this sub will kick the shit out of you if you let it though. Chances are, I'll have the gain turned way down anyway. I like a lean, tight sound from my subwoofers. So that's why I went with a sealed option.
In all truth, I did hem and haw over which of their subwoofers to get. But I think all of their options are likely going to be great considering I've never owned a subwoofer anywhere near this quality.
And thanks for the recommendation of a SubDude. I'll definitely Pick one up.
My friend had a vented Hsu sub, and I wasn't super impressed by it, but he had it in the corner of his apartment that had a tile floor, which no doubt played a huge role in it sounding as muddy as it did.
But yeah, I'd argue sealed is the way to go for basically every application, honestly. They don't give you as much output, but that's nothing that throwing in a second sub can't solve. And they just sound so clean. I'd never go back.
Tiled floor is definitely are a no no.
Seems like we have similar tastes in subs.
By the way, do you know of a good wall mount for the two rears? The speaker sort of has an awkward shape so I am struggling to find the right mounts.
Doesn't Chicago have enough drive-bys already?
I don't think stands would be good. My couch is against the back wall. I was planning to mount the two rears on that same wall wide of the couch and toe them each inward at an extreme angle.Nah, I don't know about wall mounts. Stands aren't an option?
What's an AVS?Best way to connect a AVS to a PVM?
Best way to connect a AVS to a PVM?
Oh a receiver? Yea I wouldn't trade it in, but you definitely need (at least) one digital device and (at least) one analogue device to select components.trade it in for something with analog video outputs
Oh that thing. Disregard my last post and follow 16bits advice.
Oh that thing. Disregard my last post and follow 16bits advice.
Why would you get that if the goal is to play on a PVM?
If it's outputting at a minimum resolution of 720p it's never going to look correct on a PVM in my opinion. You're better off selling it for a Famicom AV and playing in composite or modding a Famicom for rgb.I mainly like the look of it. I already have a NES hooked up but want to use this for Famicom and NES games.
I mainly like the look of it. I already have a NES hooked up but want to use this for Famicom and NES games.
AVS looks great on an FHD or UHD display (I have one hooked up to my KS8000), but there is no good option for hooking it up to a PVM.
If you already have a NES, I'd see about RGB modding it and buying one of those Famicom converter cartridges.
I've only heard about them from instagram so be cautious I guess, but www.retroasia.com sells pre-modded ones from time to time.Best play to get a NES RGB modded?
Best play to get a NES RGB modded?
I got the OSSC at the same time I got a TV. The hardware did go through some revision. The HDMI was integrated instead of going from DVI requiring you to buy a separate HDMI adapter. There was no announcement of firmware (so I had no guarantee it would work). I wanted the tv more for modern gaming so I sold the OSSC to a fellow gaffer. I am sure, if I had that unit, it would function the same. But the main difference is between the two units is another audio input so you can have a dreamcast vga box, scart and component all hooked up at once and still be able to feed all audio inputs at the same time without swapping audio jacks. Also the dvi to hdmi made mounting it awkward to position it where I wanted to.
Yeah like I said above, some hardware upgrades were made but my real decision came months down the line when the better 5x compatibility firmware was announced. My OSSC and TV seemed like it was almost there but I wasn't willing to sit on this thing if it kind of worked. I thought it would be better to sell it and buy another one down the line.
So this thread is huge and I have a fairly specific setup I'm trying to brainstorm potential issues for. So here goes:
I have a Sony PVM-2950Q. Despite it having been around for years, I've never used the RGB inputs on it; it has 5 BNC style connectors and claims to take both c-sync and h-v-sync.
I have an SNES/SFC and a bunch of arcade boards, and want to set myself up with RGB output from the SNES as well as build a supergun to run arcade boards off the PVM.
Via Google I've been told I need a sync cleaner. What is this and is it actually necessary for all use cases? Or would I want it on the SNES or arcade side only?
I don't think stands would be good. My couch is against the back wall. I was planning to mount the two rears on that same wall wide of the couch and toe them each inward at an extreme angle.
The sound field of the CCB-8s should be wide enough to accommodate that. I'll probably also run those two in sealed mode and leave the rest open.
I'll need to add some treatments to that wall to avoid things from sounding too bouncy. I'm looking into some options that fit my modern decor. But that should work right?
Sorry, it's still not perfectly clear to me. Didn't you get to try the better 5x firmware or did you already sell the OSSC by then? Does it work properly on your X800D now? I'm asking since I have the same set (49" but should be the same compatibility) and I've been following your posts about it for a couple months.
I took a look at the monitor's input specs, and it seems to me that the H-sync BNC input accepts composite sync. This means, provided you are purchasing cables that carry an RGB signal with composite sync, you won't need a sync stripper/cleaner. In any case, if you DO need a cleaned sync signal, the seller wookiewin on ebay sells SCART to BNC cables both with a sync cleaner and without. I use the non-sync stripper cables to output to my two PVMs, so I can vouch for them. I have a Sync Strike, too, but I mainly only use it for the VGA output.
I was thinking similar; getting SCART cables and using a Sync Strike instead of a simple SCART to VGA/RCA adapter (I already have a VGA to BNC cable the seller of the display threw in). In that scenario, I would just wire my supergun with SCART too. Would I go euro-SCART or J-SCART?
When I got my 1st OSSC earlier this year, it didn't work with my 800D. I was happy with the TV for modern gaming and since I already have a XRGB-Mini which worked well on the 800D I decided to sell my 1st OSSC (the one with the dvi port instead of the hdmi). After I sold it, the new hardware revision was announced followed a little while later with the announcement of the firmware that made 5x more compatible with tvs. My 800D would work sometimes but it would dsync a lot.
Fast forward to this week. I have the most recent firmware with the most recent hardware revision of the OSSC and for the most part it works on the 800D. Its not perfect, there are some issues. Mainly I have to use the sync stripper switch on my gsscartsw to get the SNES to work in 5x mode w/o sync issues.
Other than that, there are a few menus you need to navigate for each console you use to get them to work correctly on the 800D.
Recap of my experience
N64& Genesis: I think it works in 2x, 3x, 4x and 5x modes
PS1: Works best in 4x mode. 5x works but looks wrong
PS2: 480i pass through and double works great. 4x is almost there but not quite
SNES: 5x works nearly 100% of the time. I got pass through and 2x to work but I forgot which settings worked best. 3x and 4x didn't work
GC/Wii: 480i pass, 2x works fine. 480p pass and 2x works well. No issues
I haven't tested NES RGB, Dreamcast VGA/RGB or XBOX component.
Keep this in mind, you panel is an IPS (49") mine is a VA (43"). That might affect the outcome of what I found.
Never go JP21. Always go Euro.I was thinking similar; getting SCART cables and using a Sync Strike instead of a simple SCART to VGA/RCA adapter (I already have a VGA to BNC cable the seller of the display threw in). In that scenario, I would just wire my supergun with SCART too. Would I go euro-SCART or J-SCART?
Reading through your options I was going to suggest Option C with the caveat that you wouldn't be buying anymore scart based systems, but it sounds like you may go NESRGB.
If you went with C, I'm assuming you could do the same for NESRGB as well, correct? You haven't filled all the BNC plugs in that beast have you, lol?
[edit] also share some pics, interested to see all of that hooked up. I'm still a plebeian hooking up one system at a time.
Damn, that sounds like a satisfying day!
I agree with option C if you're not getting any more SCART systems. Could you consider dropping N64 to s-video and sending that to your generic AV selector with your composite signals (I assume it has both inputs). I am not an N64 person but I've heard s-vid is pretty good for that system and RGB doesn't add as much as with other consoles. I could be way wrong about that, though.
blah blah blah
sorry dp
Edit... the fuck? sorry triple post. not sure how that happened.
Bob from Retro RGB just posted a video showing some stuff on his RGB modded Sony 20" tv, that was previously composite and RF only.
https://youtu.be/jbi9HEz-cww