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Retro AV Club Thread 2: Classic Gaming Done Right!

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Just got my Pop'n set-up going with my PVM at the center. Can't have any HDTV input lag...I'm terrible enough as it is!

31754842865_489b567c37_c.jpg

That's so cool!
 

Mega

Banned
Thanks mega (as always!)

Clean looking mod as far as I can tell. What should I ask him to make sure he's legit?

Edit: he has outstanding feedback. I'll likely go this route.

I would just ask to see pics of additional modded NESes/Famicoms, or other consoles if he does different types of installs... not just the single one posted in the ebay pics (assuming that's all pics of the same mod). Then compare to the images from reputable sources, or maybe ask the guys here on GAF who know what qualifies for good work.

Oh! If you go this route, ask him to do this very simple mod in addition to the NESRGB install:

http://famicomworld.com/workshop/tech/nes-zapper-on-av-famicom/
 
You think that's weird. British people drive on the wrong side of the road, too.
No. No we don't.
Well, everybody else is driving on the right side of the road. Therefore...
I love that the reason the British drive on the left side of the road is because, back in their violent feudal days, horse-riding was done on the left so their sword arm (typically the right) could reach any ne'er-do-wells passing by with their swords primed for a fight - and that that just kinda carried forward into the automotive era.
 
Voultar has been radio silent now.

I'm going to have to learn to solder, aren't I? How hard is the NES RGB to install as a first time mod?

I'm almost tempted to just grab a premodded one off ebay at this point... I was hoping to play through my NES games during the winter in glorious RGB.

Voultar had an abscess and said he would be backed up for a bit. This was on the 15th so I'd give him a few more days.
 

Peltz

Member
Voultar had an abscess and said he would be backed up for a bit. This was on the 15th so I'd give him a few more days.

Gotcha... I'll give it some more time. Thanks for the insight.

I love that the reason the British drive on the left side of the road is because, back in their violent feudal days, horse-riding was done on the left so their sword arm (typically the right) could reach any ne'er-do-wells passing by with their swords primed for a fight - and that that just kinda carried forward into the automotive era.

This thread is just a cornucopia of information.
 
Bit of hysteria there not long after I left. Framemeister will almost certainly have ample stock through 2017. Micomsoft has a whole other batch of chips with which to make units, and they don't exactly sell like hotcakes.

Also I'm not going to be able to check out my super famicom on the ossc just yet. Did learn my monitor has a very competent upscale built in though.
 
I'm going to have to learn to solder, aren't I? How hard is the NES RGB to install as a first time mod?

Don't.

Like maybe if you had some worthless PCB with DIP chips you could practice on. Even then it's hard and a very slow process without a proper desolder gun, and at that point you might as well just pay someone.
 
Bit of hysteria there not long after I left. Framemeister will almost certainly have ample stock through 2017. Micomsoft has a whole other batch of chips with which to make units, and they don't exactly sell like hotcakes.

Also I'm not going to be able to check out my super famicom on the ossc just yet. Did learn my monitor has a very competent upscale built in though.

Welcome back
 

Timu

Member
Bit of hysteria there not long after I left. Framemeister will almost certainly have ample stock through 2017. Micomsoft has a whole other batch of chips with which to make units, and they don't exactly sell like hotcakes.

Also I'm not going to be able to check out my super famicom on the ossc just yet. Did learn my monitor has a very competent upscale built in though.
Welcome back!
 

Crynox

Neo Member
I love that the reason the British drive on the left side of the road is because, back in their violent feudal days, horse-riding was done on the left so their sword arm (typically the right) could reach any ne'er-do-wells passing by with their swords primed for a fight - and that that just kinda carried forward into the automotive era.

These days we just raise our fists instead!
 
Nice. I've been off Facebook and Twitter since the US election (I asked my wife to change the passwords and keep them secret from me). It's been great -- I'm getting much more done at work.
 

MysteryM

Member
Can anyone help with Framemeister config please on a pal SNES?

I've hooked up my pal via RGB to my Framemeister, however annoyingly its not running fullscreen (i.e. its a widescreen sony LCD and I was expecting 4:3 - so black bars to the left and right). Instead i'm getting a smaller window in the middle of the screen.

The TV isn't that old - its a Sony W955, and I've set the Framemeister to output 576p 50hz, but I've also tried 720 and 1080 in 50hz with the same effect.

Its just a tad annoying that its not vertically full screen.
 
Disappointed with the OSSC handling 240p Dreamcast (SCART out of Toro to OSSC) Check out the shading on Ryu between my ASUS monitor via OSSC (right) and my PVM (left):


Toro out to monitor via VGA:


Using the Toro to go VGA in (RGBHV) on the OSSC looks a bit better, since the Toro's scanline generator is pretty shit. I have rolled off the scanline strength from 87% to 75%. In order to get the right aspect ratio, the OSSC's sync settings need to be adjusted to DTV as opposed to Auto or VESA.


Line doubling:


^^^ What is even the point of this?
 
Don't use line doubling with scanlines unless the sprites are using the full resolution and not just designed for 240p.

In line doubled 480p with scanlines, all line doubled lines will be blacked out, so you just get a larger picture with scanlines. If your game is using an effectively lineeoubled 240p output, like many arcade and retro ports to 6th gen consoles, then you'll get twice the intended scan lines since the sprites are already doubled.

This has been discussed on both vgp and shmups and marqs is aware of the request, it should come relatively soon.

**I'm using my phone and have the finger precision of a seizing sloth, pardon typos.
 
My Life In Gaming is live streaming with John from DF Retro tonight and they're playing Symphony of the Night Saturn and Playstation side by side. It'll be archived afterwards.
 

BocoDragon

or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Realize This Assgrab is Delicious
Don't.

Like maybe if you had some worthless PCB with DIP chips you could practice on. Even then it's hard and a very slow process without a proper desolder gun, and at that point you might as well just pay someone.
^ this

I saw people recommending desoldering the NES PPU with a solder iron and solder sucker. Well... maybe. But you could also get yourself into trouble sucking the solder out halfway and just making a mess of things.

Desolder gun required IMO. And those are so expensive that you might just want to pay a modder.
 
^ this

I saw people recommending desoldering the NES PPU with a solder iron and solder sucker. Well... maybe. But you could also get yourself into trouble sucking the solder out halfway and just making a mess of things.

Desolder gun required IMO. And those are so expensive that you might just want to pay a modder.

This is where I'm at. There's one less Famicom in the world because I wasn't using the right tools.
 

Khaz

Member
Desolder gun required IMO. And those are so expensive that you might just want to pay a modder.

I've been using one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019RM6F8C/?tag=neogaf0e-20
($34 on Amazon, probably cheaper on eBay)
41tF6wBrvZL.jpg


It does the job, but it works differently than a real desoldering gun. It's more like a solder sucker with a heating tip, when ready you press the red button and it depresses a vacuum, sucking up what you just heated. But it doesn't constantly vacuums, it's a one-off "pop". The thing to be careful about is that it tends to sneeze out solder as soon as the button is released. You don't want to tap the button, but hold it and move the tip over a safe surface to release the button. Cheap behaviour for a cheap product, but apart from this I've been very happy with it as it does the job. Desoldering good practices still apply, like adding fresh tin on old joints to better remove everything, etc.

[edit] Apparently it works only on 220V? read descriptions carefully to get the right model.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmNJ8pdA1AQ
 
Learn to solder.

It's a life skill that will save you money and make you a god in some peoples eyes.

Not just that but don't cheap out on your tools.

I can solder well enough -- I'm an engineer so I'm not great at it -- but I bought a cheap ass de-soldering iron and it works for small things but I was having a hell of a time getting the PPU off. Then I made the mistake of asking my wife if she could prop it up a bit and she busted a cap in it (literally). Oh well. Next time I don't want to deal with it.
 
Not just that but don't cheap out on your tools.

I can solder well enough -- I'm an engineer so I'm not great at it -- but I bought a cheap ass de-soldering iron and it works for small things but I was having a hell of a time getting the PPU off. Then I made the mistake of asking my wife if she could prop it up a bit and she busted a cap in it (literally). Oh well. Next time I don't want to deal with it.
Do you still have the board? Replacing a cap is really easy... I managed to tear a via on the PPU doing mine but adding a simple bodge wire fixed it.
 
Do you still have the board? Replacing a cap is really easy... I managed to tear a via on the PPU doing mine but adding a simple bodge wire fixed it.

It should be around here somewhere. I moved since then so it's probably still in a box. I'm not sure where to go to find out how many farads the capacitor should be.
 
Is it true that newer Wii consoles have better video output than older ones? How much better is it? Particularly RGB/S-Video/Component.

Also, has anybody here managed to convert an NTSC Wii to output RGB? I read that it can be done via "AnyRegion Changer"... but might cause issues with some VC games?

Do PAL VC games on Wii run at 50Hz?
 
Usually just look at the numbers on it and Google them. If the cap is missing, check a high res image online.

It was tiny and disintegrated. Actually, is the board inside the Twin Famicom the same? I might be able to just compare the two since I have one of those too.
 
Noob question but if I wanna use my headphones with a PCM what do I need as far as adapters?

PVM?

I have all of my consoles routed into a gscartsw switch box and use a SCART->BNC adapter to connect to my PVM. The BNC adapter has RCA cables for audio so if your setup is similar you can just get a RCA->3.5 mm headphone adapter. Just unplug it or use another switch box to switch between your speakers and your headphones.

I wonder if anyone makes a RCA->bluetooth broadcast system.
 

New002

Member
PVM?

I have all of my consoles routed into a gscartsw switch box and use a SCART->BNC adapter to connect to my PVM. The BNC adapter has RCA cables for audio so if your setup is similar you can just get a RCA->3.5 mm headphone adapter. Just unplug it or use another switch box to switch between your speakers and your headphones.

I wonder if anyone makes a RCA->bluetooth broadcast system.

I assume you mean PVM. I bought a RCA to 3.5mm adapter a couple days ago I'll let you know how it works when I get it.

Basically something like one of these:

Yeah sorry for the typo. On mobile and missed it. I actually think I have one of those adapters lying around...I'll have to look around when I get home. Thanks!
 

Mega

Banned
Noob question but if I wanna use my headphones with a PCM what do I need as far as adapters?

Route all sound from your consoles to external audio, whether that's a receiver or a pair of stereo desktop speakers. Don't use the crappy built-in (likely mono) sound. Most speakers and receivers have a headphone jack in front.
 

eEK!

Neo Member
I'm pretty sure my PVM has headphone jacks built in.

Yah but as Mega says its likely to be mono and not great quality.

Most studio monitors don't have great audio, as anyone working on audio would have a better amp than any audio solution they could include without breaking the bank.

Fortunately your BNC adapter will probably have red and while RCA plugs for audio which can be plugged into a crazy amount of audio devices or very easily converted to a 3.5mm plug.

For example I'm using this headphone amp which is a big improvement over inbuilt sound and wasn't too expensive.
 

Mega

Banned
^Seriously, guys. This is the thread for classic gaming done right! If you already have a PVM, don't cheap out on good audio when it can be had for very little money relative to the cost of everything else in this endeavor.
 
^Seriously, guys. This is the thread for classic gaming done right! If you already have a PVM, don't cheap out on good audio when it can be had for very little money relative to the cost of everything else in this endeavor.

All my money was wasted on monitors.
 

JEKKI

Member
Question! Silly question, but question nonetheless!

I'm in America and considering buying the framemeister from that Solaris site...

will they charge me foreign transaction fees? Even tho prices listed in USD?

I'm debating if I should use my international credit card which does not charge for foreign transactions, or my new card that doesnt pay interest til 2018 (so I can spend the whole year paying off the purchase lol)
 
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