• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

javadots

Banned
Fixinated!!! :D

Thank you so much for your patience and help over such a relatively trivial matter javadots; much appreciated.

The first option did the trick [after I had shut down my pc to install some pending Windows Updates]

Sure thing man. That's the problem with old software, it takes a while for processing. You usually have to log off and log back in, or restart.

Enjoy!
 
Sure thing man. That's the problem with old software, it takes a while for processing. You usually have to log off and log back in, or restart.

Enjoy!

I'll bear that in mind! Thanks for the heads up :).

If by enjoy, you mean don't worry about soiling yourself when you actually play the game....well I can't promise anything but I'll try!

Oh and having it available as a shortcut in my Steam Client is just extra win! :D
 

Dries

Member
Yeah it's the graphics card and perhaps the TV you are using. There's nothing you can* do, some things are just incompatible. You may try at purchasing another graphics card, but I don't know if it's worth the effort to only find out that it really is your television :/
Is it really that bothersome?

Man, that would suck :-/

Anyway.. I uploaded a video. Be sure to watch it in HD, otherwise it's not very noticeable.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yflRXOtLfUA
 
It could potentially be a PSU shortage. Check all of your PSU connectors and make sure they are in their correct motherboard sockets. Then, try and reset your CMOS jumper, which is pictured below:
1697487-cmos_jumper.jpg


Shift this 2-pin connector one over to the other pin so that it will then leave the pin at the end, that it was initially sitting on, exposed. Leave it on this new position for 10 seconds or so, then revert it back to its original state, its original position. Try and booting up now.

FYI: Check and see if the I/O switch in the back of the desktop is switched off :p

The I/O switch is definitely on.

Tried the jumper. Retried shorting the power switch pins. Nothing. Sigh.
 
Here is the world's most trivial software problem, cross-posted from the firefox thread:


So Firefox is still playing poorly with Flash, even after a flash update this morning.

Visiting certain sites (tumblr for example) with flash makes the browser hang and not respond for sometimes up to five seconds.

Disabling flash player seems makes the problem go away instantly. I googled the problem and one suggestion was changing Flash's cfg file to remove the new "protected mode", but that doesn't seem to work.

Anyone else get this issue? I feel like switching to Chrome until this sorts itself out.
 

javadots

Banned
Here is the world's most trivial software problem, cross-posted from the firefox thread:


So Firefox is still playing poorly with Flash, even after a flash update this morning.

Visiting certain sites (tumblr for example) with flash makes the browser hang and not respond for sometimes up to five seconds.

Disabling flash player seems makes the problem go away instantly. I googled the problem and one suggestion was changing Flash's cfg file to remove the new "protected mode", but that doesn't seem to work.

Anyone else get this issue? I feel like switching to Chrome until this sorts itself out.

I have Chrome and Firefox for particularly this reason. I use one and wait until the other fixes itself in due time. I also re-install the broken browser just in case. For browser security, get HTTPS Everywhere from the EFF site.
 

Dai101

Banned
I've tried the paperclip in the 24-pin connector trick, and the fans all kicked on fine. I think the PSU is working okay. It is semi-modular, so I can't swap out every cable.

Damaged PSU sometimes do that. Doesn't mean they're working correctly under operating environment though.
 

Strike

Member
Go into your BIOS during boot time and manually select the main hard drive you use, all the while choosing 'none' for secondary and third boot devices.
I don't think the computer is detecting the drive at all. I'm pretty sure it's plugged in. I'm going to see if I could plug it into a different computer.
 
Get another PSU. Get one with higher amperes and slightly higher voltage this time.

Really? It seemed to be working fine before I added the optical drive. Upon disconnecting the optical drive, it still doesn't work. Could it not be an issue in the motherboard?

It would really suck to spend more money on the wrong thing.
 

t-ramp

Member
Really? It seemed to be working fine before I added the optical drive. Upon disconnecting the optical drive, it still doesn't work. Could it not be an issue in the motherboard?

It would really suck to spend more money on the wrong thing.
Are there any LEDs on the motherboard?

Did you try shorting the power button pins on the front panel header with a screwdriver or something?
 
Are there any LEDs on the motherboard?

Did you try shorting the power button pins on the front panel header with a screwdriver or something?

I didn't notice any LEDs when it was working. Don't think there are any. Either way, they're not coming on now. I tried shorting the pins, but got nothing.
 

javadots

Banned
It would really suck to spend more money on the wrong thing.

Disconnect the harddrive as well and try it out. If that doesn't work, disconnect one of the PSU connectors from the motherboard and try it out, and repeat this disconnection of PSU connectors but with a different connector everytime, plugging the prior connector back onto the designated socket on the mobo. It's all trial and error at this point.
 

Amagon

Member
Maybe you guys can help me out here for a moment. I have these power speakers, Behringer Truth B2031A, that I want to connect to the computer but I don't know what is the proper way to go. They use a XLR connector and a 1/4" TRS cable. I'm using on-board sound from the motherboard on my pc. Any suggestions would be great, thanks.
 

javadots

Banned

Dai101

Banned
Hey guys, any good free Norton Ghost type software available? I want to get an image of my SSD.

What brand is your SSD? Or your old HDD? Some manufacturers offer free trials or even suites if you have a HDD/SSD of their brands. I've Seagate Disk Wizard (Powered By Acronis)

Also, you can try both Ultimate Boot CD http://www.ubcd4win.com/

Or Hirens Boot DVD/CD they contain some tools to that effect.
 
Hi TechSupportGAF. For a few months now my laptop has been making a loud clicking sound from time to time. At first I thought it was the hard drive, so I backed up everything. Months later it's still working. I ran Check Disk the other day, still zero bad sectors. I don't know what's up. It's hard to predict when the sound will occur, but I finally managed to record it. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20755857/VN810049.mp3

Thanks for any help in advance.
 

Dai101

Banned
Hi TechSupportGAF. For a few months now my laptop has been making a loud clicking sound from time to time. At first I thought it was the hard drive, so I backed up everything. Months later it's still working. I ran Check Disk the other day, still zero bad sectors. I don't know what's up. It's hard to predict when the sound will occur, but I finally managed to record it. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20755857/VN810049.mp3

Thanks for any help in advance.

If isn't the HDD failing (the dreaded "click of DEATH!!") it could be the laptop fan
 

MrKnives

Member
So TechSupportGAF.

Yesterday I was stupid enough to spill juice all over my Quickfire TK Mechanical Keyboard and now half the keys are all sticky. I've removed all the keys and cleaned them as much as I could but some of them are still just awful.

Can you somehow easily remove the switches itself so I can clean it up and reassemble? I know in some keyboards you can in and some you can't.

Any other cool tricks or tips how to give them the old feel back? Or am I doomed with this.
 

Kainazzo

Member
I've got a Z77 motherboard that I used to use with 2 GTX 680s in SLI. GPU-Z always reported these cards as running at PCI 3.0@8x. Today I've replaced them with 2 780s, and now they are reported at 1.1@8x. I've heard about power saving features that knock it down to 1.1 when not in heavy use, but it appears to be genuinely stuck there, both when running the bus interface benchmark within GPU-Z, and in anything else. In fact, performance is about 10% below the 680s across the board, despite the clockspeed readings being correct.

The cards appear to work fine otherwise. Is it really a bandwidth issue, or a known driver bug?

Edit: I'm hoping it's just a bug in GPU-Z, as NVIDIA Inspector is correctly reporting PCI 3.0
nSOFAUL.jpg
 
So I'm building a PC (well, my friend is doing most of the work) and we got stuck on installing Windows 7. We had the ISO on a flash drive, plugged it in and Windows began its setup, but it couldn't find my HDD. We made sure it was plugged in and it was warm to the touch so it was clearly receiving power, but it could not be detected. We opened BIOS and it was not detecting my hard drive.

At this point, can I safely assume that it's defective? My friend believes it is. The reason this is important is because my optical drive is also defective — wouldn't power on at all, tested in 2 computers — and my PC case arrived missing its frontal intake fan. I bought all these parts from TigerDirect.com and unless I'm mistaken it seems they shipped me 3 faulty items. This is absolutely unacceptable, but I wanted to make sure that my HDD is defective before I send them a nasty email.
 
We opened BIOS and it was not detecting my hard drive.

At this point, can I safely assume that it's defective?

If you can get a second opinion (by connecting it to another machine via USB or SATA) and it's still undetected, then yes, it is then safe to assume it is defective.
 
If you can get a second opinion (by connecting it to another machine via USB or SATA) and it's still undetected, then yes, it is then safe to assume it is defective.

Ok thanks, I will do that at a friend's house. If it's worth noting, we plugged in a spare HDD using the same exact SATA cables, and it was detected and Windows installed just fine.
 
Phone-GAF:

My mom's phone turns on the "Bluetooth Headset" option during calls she makes in her car, when her phone is connected to the car via Bluetooth. It effectively mutes her, and she can't speak until she manually hits the button to turn it off.

It only recently started happening and I was wondering if anyone had any similar issues/experiences with this problem?


Problem solved with simple restart.
 

CyReN

Member
My laptop has been randomly freezing in the last day, about 4 times it just randomly freezes. Any ideas? Took out battery, ran scans, etc and nothing. The laptop about 2-3 years old too.
 

Dai101

Banned
My laptop has been randomly freezing in the last day, about 4 times it just randomly freezes. Any ideas? Took out battery, ran scans, etc and nothing. The laptop about 2-3 years old too.

Could be hardware related (HDD or RAM failing). Maybe it's overheating and shutsdown as a precaution
 

Strike

Member
Update: I was able to plug in the hard drive via usb and it was recognized by a laptop. I'm currently scanning and defragmenting the drive. I also got a new SATA cable. I'm wondering if it's possible to clone it to a new drive at this point. Any other suggestions?
 

Raw64life

Member
Maybe this should go in the Steam thread but I'm not sure. I had problems with my PC recently (turned out to be busted power supply, swapped them and all is well), but before I fixed this I wiped my boot drive (an SSD) and re-installed Windows. Prior to doing that, I always kept all my Steam games on a separate drive using Steam Mover (I know Steam has an option for installing on separate drives now but I started using Steam Mover before such an option existed and never stopped). So now I have all the game data on on a separate hard drive and Steam on my boot drive. Any way to get Steam to recognize the games I have?

Anyone?
 

MrBig

Member

When you choose to install a game off steam it should give you the prompt to choose the install location. It should recognize the previous installs located there and sync with them, but I have not tried doing so myself. If steam mover uses a folder structure different than steam it wont work unless you manually move them into the install folder structure theyre supposed to be in.
 
Well, it's been a few days since my problem first started...

I thought I might as well try here.

I'm building my first PC and have hit a snag. I managed to get the flash screen, but I didn't have a Sata cable for my optical drive. So I picked one up the next day and plugged it in. I hit the power button, and got nothing. No lights, no fans, or anything. I tested the PSU with a paperclip and it works. I tried shorting the power switch pins, but couldn't manage to do it. Not sure if I did it right though.

I can't think of anything I did to screw up the system. Don't see any lose wires. The only thing I can think of is maybe I did something to the power button when I put a usb cord into the parallel slot.

... And I haven't really had time to fool around with it until tonight. Unplugged the optical drive, the hard drive, and alternated the cables on the motherboard, but I'm still getting nothing. Again, putting a paperclip in the 24-pin connecter does start the fans.

Is it definitely the PSU or might I have a motherboard issue?
 

mhayze

Member
My laptop has been randomly freezing in the last day, about 4 times it just randomly freezes. Any ideas? Took out battery, ran scans, etc and nothing. The laptop about 2-3 years old too.

Older laptops often clog up with dust and start overheating. Try running it on a cooling pad, and if that makes a difference, it might be heat related. Excess heat can also damage some components.
 

Sayer

Member
Am i in the right thread?

Im trying to build a pc and came up with the below specs could you let me know what you think please?

Intel i7 3770 - (4 x 3.4 GHZ) - ivy bridge
8GB 1600MHz (1x8GB) - (DDr3)
NVIDIA GFORCE GTX660 - 2GB -(GAINWARD) -(PCI-E)
Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3H (Intel B75)

I'm guessing i need a a SDD along with normal harddrive? More/faster ram? Is Ivybridge the latest model or should i go i5?

Finally im not sure if the GPU is decent.

Any advice, opinions would be greatly appreciated!
 
Am i in the right thread?

Im trying to build a pc and came up with the below specs could you let me know what you think please?

Intel i7 3770 - (4 x 3.4 GHZ) - ivy bridge
8GB 1600MHz (1x8GB) - (DDr3)
NVIDIA GFORCE GTX660 - 2GB -(GAINWARD) -(PCI-E)
Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3H (Intel B75)

I'm guessing i need a a SDD along with normal harddrive? More/faster ram? Is Ivybridge the latest model or should i go i5?

Finally im not sure if the GPU is decent.

Any advice, opinions would be greatly appreciated!

You'd probably get better feedback in this thread.
 
Just installed a new SSD a few days ago but as you can see the performane isnt what it should be. Now my mobo is 4yrs old or so and it only has Sata 3gb interface, so im assuming thats the cause or is there something else i may be overlooking here?
Thanks for the help.
 

mhayze

Member
Am i in the right thread?

Im trying to build a pc and came up with the below specs could you let me know what you think please?

Intel i7 3770 - (4 x 3.4 GHZ) - ivy bridge
8GB 1600MHz (1x8GB) - (DDr3)
NVIDIA GFORCE GTX660 - 2GB -(GAINWARD) -(PCI-E)
Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3H (Intel B75)

I'm guessing i need a a SDD along with normal harddrive? More/faster ram? Is Ivybridge the latest model or should i go i5?

Finally im not sure if the GPU is decent.

Any advice, opinions would be greatly appreciated!

Since you ask:
- Ivy Bridge is fine, but Haswell is the latest. While the Haswell CPUs are not that much better for a desktop than the equiv. Ivy Bridge, for the average user the improvements to the chipset and integrated GPU, and better longevity is worth going Haswell i5, IMHO.

- Go dual channel with your RAM, either 4x2 or 8x2. 1600mhz is fine

- I would recommend a GTX 760 - again, not much price benefit to 660, unless it's used. Shop around for a deal, if the extra $20 matters

- SSD are very nice, they make your PC feel a lot faster in daily use, IMHO. Keep a regular HD for media and infrequently used apps / games
 
Okay, I need some technical help here. First my specs for whatever reason:

Asus Maximus IV Gene Z/Gen3
i5 2500k 3.3 not o'ced
12 gig RAM
Nvidia GTX 560ti
Asus BD-ROM
Samsung 830 64 gig - WIn boot drive
Samsung HD103SJ

I can't get my 1 TB hard drive to consistently appear and remain stable. It began only recently to randomly disconnect in the middle of using it and so I first scanned it, found no problems, always found it in Bios, etc. So I tried all different ports/cables, eventually the same problem. So I RMA'd it. Fast forward to today, same deal with the drive they sent me. So it is not the drive? Or they're both bad.

1.) My SSD has no problems, on a SATA 6.0 port.
2.) My BD-ROM has no problems, on a SATA 3.0 port.
Conclusion: Sata controller fine?

I've tried both old and new drives on 6.0/3.0 ports and new cables. They either don't work at all or work for a little while and then disappear. I find it hard to believe that all the cables and both drives would all be bad. I don't know what to do though. I'm on a clean WIn 7 install with nothing else on the SSD.

Is there a virus that could do this? An IRQ conflict? Something else? Firmware(but why did this randomly start a few weeks ago?)?

Please help, I'll answer any further questions.
 
Top Bottom