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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

Have you updated all drivers for your motherboard? Specifically SATA controller ones?

Run the Intel full package https://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=20775

And these ones for your jmicron chipset - http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/sata/JMicron_V117582_XPVistaWin7.zip

As well - plug it into the ports that aren't Red - I'd try it in your other 6gb/s port first.
Thanks for responding.

But yes, I've updated both of those driver packages. And yeah, I've literally tried it in every port available. When it does work, it is only for a brief time.

In my internet googling I found references to 'solder points' on motherboards going bad and somehow affecting ports? Like if they heat up while being used they work intermittently? I literally don't know what this means, could be unrelated, maybe it means something to someone else.
 
Heya tech support Gaf, I have a small question to ask.

Over the past few days, every once in awhile the forums here will cause a 'shockwave crash'. Everything hangs until it crashes, and then proceeds as normal. Is this my computer I should be worrying about or a faulty ad or something? It only happens on the Neogaf site (I have ads blocked everywhere else)
 

Kabuto

Member
so we got a new gateway/router in my house and every laptop and phone can connect to the wifi except my gaming pc. I type in my password correctly yet it always say "Network Security Key Mismatch". Can anybody help?
 
The other day the power went out on me while I had my PC on and ever since then it freezes up every 20-30 minutes now. Is it possible Windows 7 has got some sort of corruption from not shutting down properly?
 
Thanks for responding.

But yes, I've updated both of those driver packages. And yeah, I've literally tried it in every port available. When it does work, it is only for a brief time.

In my internet googling I found references to 'solder points' on motherboards going bad and somehow affecting ports? Like if they heat up while being used they work intermittently? I literally don't know what this means, could be unrelated, maybe it means something to someone else.

If your motherboard is from the first few months of 2011, there is an error in the intel chipset that causes sata ports to fail over time. They pulled every board from the marked and offered replacement boards to everybody. I got one of the boards but had it replaced as soon as they got out the new correct boards (labled B3). A friend of mine didn't have it replaced and suffers the same error as you. Basically it only applies to the intel sata 3.0 ports. The sata 6.0 ports and any matrox ports should be unaffected. I don't remember the color codes, but it should be the ports you have the most of.
 

Megasoum

Banned
Hey guys, I have a problem that's been bugging me for a while at work and I was wondering if there's a solution available somewhere.

I often have to copy and move around large quantity of files on our corporate network. The problem is that many other employees have access to those files too so I often run into cases where I can't move a file or a folder because it's in use by another user.

Is there a way to 1- Check if the file is in use (other than trying to move it) and 2-See who's using the file at the time?

Thanks!
 
If your motherboard is from the first few months of 2011, there is an error in the intel chipset that causes sata ports to fail over time. They pulled every board from the marked and offered replacement boards to everybody. I got one of the boards but had it replaced as soon as they got out the new correct boards (labled B3). A friend of mine didn't have it replaced and suffers the same error as you. Basically it only applies to the intel sata 3.0 ports. The sata 6.0 ports and any matrox ports should be unaffected. I don't remember the color codes, but it should be the ports you have the most of.

I read about that also, affects the P67 chipsets. Apparently they were having people upgrade to the z68 chipsets which is what I have...but it does make me wonder, since it is incredibly similar to what is happening to me. I may just go the lazy way and get a USB 3.0 external and bypass this whole issue. I've still got a year and a half on my board warranty.
 
My desktop has been suddenly powering down by itself, usually in the middle of processing intensive situations. I'm guessing it's overheating.

I did put it together 3 or 4 years ago, so I know the basics of what pieces go where, but I've never checked a CPU temp before (there are utilities that do this, right?).

What might be different now than was a year ago and how can I diagnose it?
 

seb_n

Member
Hey guys, I have a problem that's been bugging me for a while at work and I was wondering if there's a solution available somewhere.

I often have to copy and move around large quantity of files on our corporate network. The problem is that many other employees have access to those files too so I often run into cases where I can't move a file or a folder because it's in use by another user.

Is there a way to 1- Check if the file is in use (other than trying to move it) and 2-See who's using the file at the time?

Thanks!

Only way really is if you have access to the file server itself, you are able to see open files and session

If its Server 2008, its in the server manager console under "Roles" and then "File Services" then "Share and Storage Management" in the actions panel on the right, you have "Manager Sessions" and "Manage Open Files" this will show you all the information you require.

If its Server 2003, right click my computer and then "manage" its under the disk management (if i recall correctly)

Of course, if you dont have domain admin priviledges or elevated priviledges and are unable to access the file server directly, you are out of luck.
 

Karak

Member
My desktop has been suddenly powering down by itself, usually in the middle of processing intensive situations. I'm guessing it's overheating.

I did put it together 3 or 4 years ago, so I know the basics of what pieces go where, but I've never checked a CPU temp before (there are utilities that do this, right?).

What might be different now than was a year ago and how can I diagnose it?

Overheating or a bad PSU. Use anything free online to check your CPU temp and that can be ruled out. Countless programs can be found just using google. Even Speccy could do it.

Most likely its going to turn out to be your PSU though.
 
Overheating or a bad PSU. Use anything free online to check your CPU temp and that can be ruled out.

Most likely its going to turn out to be your PSU.
OK. I'm not home at the moment but when I check it, what should the temperature be and what is too high?

And why would the PSU specifically crap out when rendering a video for example? Thanks.
 

Karak

Member
OK. I'm not home at the moment but when I check it, what should the temperature be and what is too high?

Depends completely on your CPU and GPU. Find out the types and look online for average temps.

The PSU needs to supply a perfectly stable power supply to the CPU(and everything else) without error. When a PSU goes bad many times it shows up when heavy work begins and the power draw climbs. If it fails (crash). In fact its pretty atypical behavior for a PSU failure to show up in those ways.

The nice thing is that many PSU's have great warranties and tons of options so if it did go bad you can get something super compatible and at a higher overall wattage(more is better to a certain degree of course)
 

Megasoum

Banned
Only way really is if you have access to the file server itself, you are able to see open files and session

If its Server 2008, its in the server manager console under "Roles" and then "File Services" then "Share and Storage Management" in the actions panel on the right, you have "Manager Sessions" and "Manage Open Files" this will show you all the information you require.

If its Server 2003, right click my computer and then "manage" its under the disk management (if i recall correctly)

Of course, if you dont have domain admin priviledges or elevated priviledges and are unable to access the file server directly, you are out of luck.

Yeah ok that's what I feared. I don't have admin priviledge right now.

Thanks!
 
The other day the power went out on me while I had my PC on and ever since then it freezes up every 20-30 minutes now. Is it possible Windows 7 has got some sort of corruption from not shutting down properly?

Correction, now my PC will no longer even boot Windows 7. Immediately crashes and tries to reboot.

Halp Plz
 

seb_n

Member
Correction, now my PC will no longer even boot Windows 7. Immediately crashes and tries to reboot.

Halp Plz

Does it POST (go through startup screen with bios details, beep etc) or does it just contunially reboot. Or, does it start to load Windows then reboot?
 
Does it POST (go through startup screen with bios details, beep etc) or does it just contunially reboot. Or, does it start to load Windows then reboot?

It does go through the BIOS screen. It gets to that Windows 7 loading screen of the 4 squares forming, then crashes, a blue screen flashes and it immediately restarts.
 
Overheating or a bad PSU. Use anything free online to check your CPU temp and that can be ruled out. Countless programs can be found just using google. Even Speccy could do it.

Most likely its going to turn out to be your PSU though.
Oh, man. I used Core Temp and all the cores are above 95 degrees, often going above 100, even though the load is only at like 2%. A quick search implies that they should be below 80:

http://communities.intel.com/thread/10300

What is going on? Do I need to replace the thermal paste? I have no idea what's causing it.
 
Oh, man. I used Core Temp and all the cores are above 95 degrees, often going above 100, even though the load is only at like 2%. A quick search implies that they should be below 80:

http://communities.intel.com/thread/10300

What is going on? Do I need to replace the thermal paste? I have no idea what's causing it.

The usual routine:-

1. Clean out all the dust from the system

2. Replace the previous TIM compound from the CPU and the CPU heatsink with a new one, curing it first if necessary.

3. Check that the fans are in order, espcially the CPU fan,
 
R

Rösti

Unconfirmed Member
I have this problem when trying to install two typeface files (in TrueType format, .ttf). It's the same typeface but in two different weights, but Windows 7 refuses for some reason to install both weights at the same time. If I have one installed and try to install the other, I just get this message:

The typeface already exists. Would you like to replace the typeface?

I briefly looked at the code (with Notepad...) and noticed that both files feature the following string:

Code:
R e g u l a r  Regular

This comes directly after the mention of the weight, so it's like this:

Code:
Light R e g u l a r  Regular
Code:
Medium R e g u l a r  Regular

Removing Regular obviously corrupted the file. Anyway, what may cause this problem, I have never encountered it before?
 

Strike

Member
Okay GAF, I managed to get all my files off of the failing hard drive, bought a new one, formatted it, and it still won't recognize the new drive. Any suggestions?
 
Okay GAF, I managed to get all my files off of the failing hard drive, bought a new one, formatted it, and it still won't recognize the new drive. Any suggestions?

Your situation sounds a lot like mine I posted up above(then again I don't know your specs). Try different ports/cables/drivers. Check the setting for the hard drive in the BIOS.

Anyway, I decided to give up, I bought a external USB 3.0 drive to bypass whatever my unknown SATA issue is. After you've exhausted every other option in your case, there's another one for you.
 
It does go through the BIOS screen. It gets to that Windows 7 loading screen of the 4 squares forming, then crashes, a blue screen flashes and it immediately restarts.

It now will boot windows but crashes after a while again and blue screen flashes, reboots.
I tried formatting both my SSD and HD and doing a clean install of windows and it did not solve this problem. I tried taking out one stick of RAM and then the other, didn't help either. I went in my Bios and restored everything to default settings (had my CPU overclocked) still same problem.

Don't know what to do :(
 
It now will boot windows but crashes after a while again and blue screen flashes, reboots.
I tried formatting both my SSD and HD and doing a clean install of windows and it did not solve this problem. I tried taking out one stick of RAM and then the other, didn't help either. I went in my Bios and restored everything to default settings (had my CPU overclocked) still same problem.

Don't know what to do :(

What exactly is the faulting module/driver when the BSOD happens?

You can prevent the system from restarting automatically when the BSOD occurs by heading to the Advanced System Settings (just type it into the Startmenu Search bar), then heading to the Startup and recovery Settings, and finally uncheck the Automatically restart checkbox there and check the Write an event to the system log. Also ensure that the "Write debugging information" dropdown menu is set to "Small kernel dump".

When the next BSOD happens, you will now be able to see exactly what the faulty module is.

To help with the analysis, you can also download this free program called BlueScreenView by Nirsoft, which allows you to view all the previous minidumps your system made when it crapped out previously.
 

kehs

Banned
I'm stumped, I'm having a problem with my wifi network. All but two devices are working fine.

These two laptops keep having trouble staying connected on the network. If I keep a sustained connection going, like a download or something it stays connected. Speedtests work perfectly, but if I start browsing pages it will time out disconnect and reconnect.

My phone/table/Google TV sitting right next to these two laptops work perfectly.

I've trouble shooted the shit out of it and I can't think of anything that would cause this.

They area both win7 laptops a cr48, and an Asus 1000he netbook.
 

Kabuto

Member
I'm stumped, I'm having a problem with my eifi network. All but two devices are working fine.

These two laptops keep having trouble staying connected on the network. If I keep a sustained connection going, like a download or something it stays connected. Speedtests work perfectly, but if I start browsing pages it will time out disconnect and reconnect.

My phone/table/Google TV sitting right next to these two laptops work perfectly.

I've trouble shooted the shit out of it and I can't think of anything that would cause this.

They area both win7 laptops a cr48, and an Asus 1000he netbook.

I am having a similar problem as you. My mom, sister's laptops and my iPhone connect fine. My gaming pc now connects occasionally but it's mostly not connecting to my wifi.
 
What exactly is the faulting module/driver when the BSOD happens?

You can prevent the system from restarting automatically when the BSOD occurs by heading to the Advanced System Settings (just type it into the Startmenu Search bar), then heading to the Startup and recovery Settings, and finally uncheck the Automatically restart checkbox there and check the Write an event to the system log. Also ensure that the "Write debugging information" dropdown menu is set to "Small kernel dump".

When the next BSOD happens, you will now be able to see exactly what the faulty module is.

To help with the analysis, you can also download this free program called BlueScreenView by Nirsoft, which allows you to view all the previous minidumps your system made when it crapped out previously.

Here is a picture I took of the Blue Screen that comes up:

http://i.imgur.com/eK34Rit.jpg
 
That is the worst sort of BSOD, the one that gives only vague information without a precise faulty module displayed.

Try the BlueScreenView program I linked to earlier on. It'll be able to dig into the minidump files your PC is producing each and everytime your PC has a BSOD.

Thanks, will do.
 

Kikarian

Member
Chrome shows this weird font after installing Helvetica Neua.

I uninstalled Helvetica but it still appears like this.

I've noticed it only looks like this on GAF. It's fine on Twitter etc.

M8MUBgl.png


4CXwbYs.png
 
I've been having issues with the desktop I built a few months back. Sometimes the computer will just shut off as if it was unplugged. This has happened during games, when watching something on Netflix, browsing the internet, and possibly once when just idle. There's no blue screen and no warning of overheating that I know of. Does this seem to point more to a hardware issue?
 

Dai101

Banned
I've been having issues with the desktop I built a few months back. Sometimes the computer will just shut off as if it was unplugged. This has happened during games, when watching something on Netflix, browsing the internet, and possibly once when just idle. There's no blue screen and no warning of overheating that I know of. Does this seem to point more to a hardware issue?

I will go for the PSU. Maybe another hardware too (CPU, RAM). If you have a PSU at hand try changing it and give it a shot and see how it works.
 
I will go for the PSU. Maybe another hardware too (CPU, RAM). If you have a PSU at hand try changing it and give it a shot and see how it works.

I don't have one around and I'm pretty sure nobody I know does either. Dumb question but do I need to try to match the PSU up with the rest of my parts or is it pretty much a universal thing? Do you have anything you'd recommend in particular?

edit: Is HWMonitor a reliable program? I looked at thetemperatures in there and the CPU is overheating according to that. It should hit a max of around 74c and it has reached 87c at its max. If this is the case I was thinking about redoing the thermal paste, cleaning the case, and maybe putting more effort into the cable management.

edit x2: Sorry if any information i give is vague/unhelpful. I built this with a lot of help from someone else and don't know a lot about computers. I've been working on that though.
 

Dai101

Banned
I don't have one around and I'm pretty sure nobody I know does either. Dumb question but do I need to try to match the PSU up with the rest of my parts or is it pretty much a universal thing? Do you have anything you'd recommend in particular?

Well, any >>> 400W PSU could do the trick, so if you can't get one borrowed try buying a very cheap one for testing. First try just the esscential (MoBo, RAM, video card, primary HDD) and check how it works. If it works fine try adding more hardware. If it passes then it was your old PSU. Now with all confidence you can go and buy a better one or stick with this until it blows xD
 

Akai__

Member
Hey guys,

I have a little problem to set up my Black Magic Intensity Pro correctly. It's installed in my main PC and I want to capture the screen of my old PC.

I'm using HDMI cables and I've set them to the right input/output positions, but this is what I'm getting:


I'm only getting a picture on 1080p 30 FPS, but yeah, it doubles the desktop.

Here are also my Black Magic Control Panel setting:


I hope someone knows a workaround for this problem.

Thanks in advance.
 

kehs

Banned
I'm stumped, I'm having a problem with my wifi network. All but two devices are working fine.

These two laptops keep having trouble staying connected on the network. If I keep a sustained connection going, like a download or something it stays connected. Speedtests work perfectly, but if I start browsing pages it will time out disconnect and reconnect.

My phone/table/Google TV sitting right next to these two laptops work perfectly.

I've trouble shooted the shit out of it and I can't think of anything that would cause this.

They area both win7 laptops a cr48, and an Asus 1000he netbook.

Looks like I tracked it down to the WiFi card on my cr48 dying. It seems to be requesting IP addresses infinitely from the network. Static IP doesn't work. The second laptop doesn't work because it was requesting the same IP as the cr 48 causing IP conflict.

Time for a new laptop!
 

Fatalah

Member
My friend removed his camera's SD card before it was "safe to remove", and now the card is unreadable.

QKdcyev.png


I'm trying to recover his vacation photos, but not having much luck. Any advice?

Programs I've tried:
TestDisk -- Does not detect the removable drive
Recuva - Unable to connect to the removable drive
iCareRecovery - Sees the removable drive, but detects 0 files to recover.

This is maddening!
 

Dai101

Banned
My friend removed his camera's SD card before it was "safe to remove", and now the card is unreadable.

QKdcyev.png


I'm trying to recover his vacation photos, but not having much luck. Any advice?

Programs I've tried:
TestDisk -- Does not detect the removable drive
Recuva - Unable to connect to the removable drive
iCareRecovery - Sees the removable drive, but detects 0 files to recover.

This is maddening!

Try this first:

http://hddguru.com/software/HDD-LLF-Low-Level-Format-Tool/

Then try a forensics or a deep recovery program, i can suggest using the ones in the often mentioned Hirens' Boot DVD/CD. Try recovering files or the whole partition before the Low Level Format, if possible

Best case scenario, maybe you can recover the files, or the MC. Worst case scenario?, that MC is toasted =P
 

Fatalah

Member
Try this first:

http://hddguru.com/software/HDD-LLF-Low-Level-Format-Tool/

Then try a forensics or a deep recovery program, i can suggest using the ones in the often mentioned Hirens' Boot DVD/CD. Try recovering files or the whole partition before the Low Level Format, if possible

Best case scenario, maybe you can recover the files, or the MC. Worst case scenario?, that MC is toasted =P

So my best bet is to reformat and hope to recover via a deep scanning recovery too?

Which filesystem should I reformat to, FAT, FAT 32, NTFS?

Update: HDDGuru does not detect the drive.
 

GhaleonEB

Member
A good sized external hard drive would make sense, then at least it would be a one time copy rather than multiple efforts. And as an added bonus you have a back up drive when you're done.

You can but a larger HDD put in you current system and then copy everything. Once you done you can format your old HDD install your OS and continue using your PC as normal.

Thanks guys. I've waited a bit to go much further as I was waiting for my mid-year bonus to see what kind of PC I could afford.

Is this what you had in mind with a backup HDD? I just went to Newegg and found the highest rated external HDD, a Seagate 500 GB, that I could afford.

Any issues moving data between OS? I'm in Vista, and will be moving to Windows 8. If I backup my data, are there any pitfalls to watch for moving stuff over to the new device? (I'm going to search around online as well, but this thread as been invaluable so I wanted to as here as well.)

Thanks.
 

Dark Rider

Member
Hey teck GAF,

I am about to buy a new router so I have a questions.
I want my wireless network to be secure by all means possible, so is it possible to do the combination of hidden network + password encrypted + only a list of MAC address devices can connect?
is there other useful ways to add to the combination?

Thank you in advance :)
 
Hey teck GAF,

I am about to buy a new router so I have a questions.
I want my wireless network to be secure by all means possible, so is it possible to do the combination of hidden network + password encrypted + only a list of MAC address devices can connect?
is there other useful ways to add to the combination?

Thank you in advance :)

You've pretty much covered it all.

Ensure that you've set it to WPA2-PSK + AES or TKIP (AES > TKIP) at the minimum. Anything less (like WEP and basic WPA) is just asking for your WIFI network to be hacked within seconds.

Some would argue that disabling the wireless SSID broadcast and having a MAC address whitelist are counterproductive, since both can be easily broken through anyway via wireless sniffing tools and MAC address spoofing by a determined hacker.
 

Dai101

Banned
^^ Pretty much that.

Also disable the WPS (if the router has that button) function too. There's some tools that attack that too and even if you have WPA AES if WPS is active it can be hacked.
 

Dark Rider

Member
You've pretty much covered it all.

Ensure that you've set it to WPA2-PSK + AES or TKIP (AES > TKIP) at the minimum. Anything less (like WEP and basic WPA) is just asking for your WIFI network to be hacked within seconds.

Some would argue that disabling the wireless SSID broadcast and having a MAC address whitelist are counterproductive, since both can be easily broken through anyway via wireless sniffing tools and MAC address spoofing by a determined hacker.

So I can actually apply all 3 measures at the same time?
is WPA2-PSK + AES the best way for encryption and password?
about disabling SSID broadcast and MAC address whitelist, I meant in addition to the encryption and password not on their own, I'm just trying to get the maximum security possible :p
can I make the range for the network small? I'm guessing there is no way to control that :(

I wonder what brand will give me all this :x

EDIT:
^^ Pretty much that.

Also disable the WPS (if the router has that button) function too. There's some tools that attack that too and even if you have WPA AES if WPS is active it can be hacked.

That will still be active even if I was using WPA2-PSK + AES?!
 

Dark Rider

Member
Usually it comes as default in most routers that use it, so yeah, you need to disable it.

I'll make sure to disable it thank you :)
so I can get all 3 (WPA2-PSK + AES + SSID broadcast disabled + MAC address whitelist) working together?
I want to use this combination so even if someone has the password they cant access the network because they are not on the MAC address white-list.
can I make the network range smaller?
if you have any other tips to make it more secure I'd appreciate it :)
 
I'll make sure to disable it thank you :)
so I can get all 3 (WPA2-PSK + AES + SSID broadcast disabled + MAC address whitelist) working together?
I want to use this combination so even if someone has the password they cant access the network because they are not on the MAC address white-list.
can I make the network range smaller?
if you have any other tips to make it more secure I'd appreciate it :)

Yep. Depends on the firmware.

If your router supports a form of Tomato firmware or DD-WRT you can easily use them reduce the network range of your router.

Amongst other things.
 
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