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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

Odd (not so much an issue) problem.

I have a fan on my desk and a desktop PC. When I turn the fan off, my PC makes the device removed noise and freezes for a second. Would that be because they're both connected to the same power-plug?

Also, does this mean the PC isn't getting enough power, or my fan is taking too much?
 

Dai101

Banned
Eh, some russian porn sites, but I think it's ok!

My laptop came with McAfee, but I hate it.

Is Windows Defender enough?

I was thinking in warez and stuff like that since MSE has trouble with day-one threats but for porn is OK. Windows Defender in W8? it's good to go.
 

Holden

Member
hey gaf i got a problem with my pc thats rather annoying

whenever i boot it up, after the windows logo and all comes, my screen just turns black with only the cursor on that i can move ( keyboard doesn't work). So i'm unable to do anything.

So to try to fix that i put in my windows 7 64bit installing disc that has the system repair ( that i've used in past to fix my PC multiple times) but i get this error whenever i try to repair now (never got before):
This version of System Recovery Options is not compatible with the version of windows you are trying to repair. Try using a recovery disc that is compatible with this version of windows.

So, i don't really know what to do, some help would be nice because i'm really confused about this.

hardware:
1hdd (1tb)
1 cd/dvd drive (usb)
P8Z77-V LK (mobo)
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
hey gaf i got a problem with my pc thats rather annoying

whenever i boot it up, after the windows logo and all comes, my screen just turns black with only the cursor on that i can move ( keyboard doesn't work). So i'm unable to do anything.

So to try to fix that i put in my windows 7 64bit installing disc that has the system repair ( that i've used in past to fix my PC multiple times) but i get this error whenever i try to repair now (never got before):


So, i don't really know what to do, some help would be nice because i'm really confused about this.

hardware:
1hdd (1tb)
1 cd/dvd drive (usb)
P8Z77-V LK (mobo)
is the disk service pack 1 and the computer not service pack 1 or vice versa? Essentially it thinks its a different version and the only thing that could do that is service pack 1

Thats the only thing I can think of. But good luck, in 4 years of helpdesk I was able to repair windows XP all the time with this method. When we moved to windows 7, not once was I able to ever get system repair to work, with any of the methods. The one thing I didnt like about Windows 7.
 

Holden

Member
Hmm the disk might not be SP1 and i don't even know if my PC is in SP1 or not... i suppose it was...?

And is there a way to download the SP1 system repair?


and system repair has always worked for me :/ i used it on multiple ocasion and worked fine :////
 

Telaso

Banned
Ok GAF. Heres a tricky one. Know that I'm the local sys admin at my job. See the tl;dr for the actual quick question.


We have 2 computers running XP SP2 due to the software used on them will not work on anything newer. Both the hard drives are 500gb PATA drives with what seems like an insane amount of bad sectors. We have no backups of these drives anywhere (I have not worked here long, cleaning up someone elses old mess). They were both identical when they were put into the computers. Both computers are identical hardware wise.

I am trying to get the WIndows images off these drives and onto another PATA drive in case one of them finally dies. I have a 250gb PATA drive and 2 80gb PATA drives currently that I was told to use. Know that they will not purchase another 500gb drive due to budget cutting. I have used clonezilla in the past successfully for other uses so I have tried using it to get the Windows partition off these drives but I cannot get it to load from the drive due to it missing the MBR. I have been able to successfully pull of the 120gb partition onto the 250gb drive, but unable to get it to load on any computer, even after running the Win xp repair off the disc used to originally create the image of the drives.

tl;dr: I'm looking for some free software to copy a MBR and windows partition off a 500gb PATA drive onto a 250gb PATA drive that will let me boot windows from it on the computer I got it off. Any suggestions?
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
Ok GAF. Heres a tricky one. Know that I'm the local sys admin at my job. See the tl;dr for the actual quick question.


We have 2 computers running XP SP2 due to the software used on them will not work on anything newer. Both the hard drives are 500gb PATA drives with what seems like an insane amount of bad sectors. We have no backups of these drives anywhere (I have not worked here long, cleaning up someone elses old mess). They were both identical when they were put into the computers. Both computers are identical hardware wise.

I am trying to get the WIndows images off these drives and onto another PATA drive in case one of them finally dies. I have a 250gb PATA drive and 2 80gb PATA drives currently that I was told to use. Know that they will not purchase another 500gb drive due to budget cutting. I have used clonezilla in the past successfully for other uses so I have tried using it to get the Windows partition off these drives but I cannot get it to load from the drive due to it missing the MBR. I have been able to successfully pull of the 120gb partition onto the 250gb drive, but unable to get it to load on any computer, even after running the Win xp repair off the disc used to originally create the image of the drives.

tl;dr: I'm looking for some free software to copy a MBR and windows partition off a 500gb PATA drive onto a 250gb PATA drive that will let me boot windows from it on the computer I got it off. Any suggestions?
is Windows AIK installed anywhere? Imagex is exactly what this was designed for. Its free btw.
 

Calmine

Member
Thought this would be the best place to post this.

I have a HD7950 with a 2560x1440 monitor on Windows 8 64bit. Whenever it's a graphically intense game I use a 1920x1080 resolution but ill regardless of the resolution expect the native it appear to be boxed with borders.

I've enabled Scale image to full panel size on the Catalyst control panel but this makes no difference. Even tried Maintain aspect ratio again no difference exactly the same.

I've downgraded the drivers to 13.5 and on 13.6 beta made no difference. The only way to work and get a Full screen at 1920x1080 is dropping the Desktop native to 1080 but that's not what I want.

Please any idea's or even a solution would be very grateful.
 

Tendo

Member
Before I RMA this thing - is my graphics card dead?

Have an Nvidia 660ti and about a month ago it would randomly start failing during games. Black screen, sound continues, then it fires back up but at a very low framerate. Tried updating/ rolling back drivers - no go. yesterday it just goes into a constant crash reboot cycle.

Now, this all started when I updated drivers. I said to heck with it, I have to reformat anyway, I'll do a fresh install.

I do a fresh install of windows wiping out the old partition. Install my mobo drivers for usb and lan. Start doing windows updates. Windows updates finish and the computer reboots but now i'm stuck in a reboot loop. I can boot into safe mode, but not normal windows, it just reboots after the windows logo.

I take the graphics card out and plug my video into the mobo and it boots into windows normally.

Is my card dead or is it something else?
 
I've got a mother of a virus or something on my computer that I've been trying remove to no avail. Do you think you folks could be of any help? The computer is running Windows Vista and was running fine until about a week away when everything started to chug suddenly.

Now every time I open pretty much any application the computer will lock up for 30 seconds or so. I won't be able to interact with the program I'm opening or the task bar or anything. Eventually it will start moving again but stop a few minutes later. In addition, I am getting weird error dialogue boxes and MSE has mysteriously stopped running a few times.

From Googling the text in the popup boxes, I'm led to believe I might be dealing with something called SubSeven? It looks like some sort of weird Trojan that is good at evading capture and slowing the shit out of my computer. The slowness and weird error messages fit, so I'm assuming it's that.

I've tried running a host of anti-virus software and the like. MSE, Avast, SpyBot, and MalWareBytes each one in turn but have found nothing. I've run them in safe mode and out of it but the problem persists. I'm on my last leg and seriously considering giving up and buying a new laptop. Do you guys have any ideas as to what I can do?
 
I've got a mother of a virus or something on my computer that I've been trying remove to no avail. Do you think you folks could be of any help? The computer is running Windows Vista and was running fine until about a week away when everything started to chug suddenly.

Now every time I open pretty much any application the computer will lock up for 30 seconds or so. I won't be able to interact with the program I'm opening or the task bar or anything. Eventually it will start moving again but stop a few minutes later. In addition, I am getting weird error dialogue boxes and MSE has mysteriously stopped running a few times.

From Googling the text in the popup boxes, I'm led to believe I might be dealing with something called SubSeven? It looks like some sort of weird Trojan that is good at evading capture and slowing the shit out of my computer. The slowness and weird error messages fit, so I'm assuming it's that.

I've tried running a host of anti-virus software and the like. MSE, Avast, SpyBot, and MalWareBytes each one in turn but have found nothing. I've run them in safe mode and out of it but the problem persists. I'm on my last leg and seriously considering giving up and buying a new laptop. Do you guys have any ideas as to what I can do?

Short answer?

1. Backup any important data offline (I hesitate to even suggest this, lest your backups become infected too), offline meaning you detach the drive from your laptop and put it in a USB/eSATA enclosure and move the vital files to another PC.

1a. Make sure you have the original Vista COA sticker (with the product code etc) at the bottom of your laptop and your Vista manufacturer provided discs before doing the next step.

2. Nuke it from orbit. Seriously. Format C: etc.

3. Reinstall Vista using the manufacturer discs.. (ugh, you're really unfortunate to have been stuck with this OS, would recommend a 7 upgrade if you're so inclined)
 
Short answer?

1. Backup any important data offline (I hesitate to even suggest this, lest your backups become infected too), offline meaning you detach the drive from your laptop and put it in a USB/eSATA enclosure and move the vital files to another PC.

1a. Make sure you have the original Vista COA sticker (with the product code etc) at the bottom of your laptop and your Vista manufacturer provided discs before doing the next step.

2. Nuke it from orbit. Seriously. Format C: etc.

3. Reinstall Vista using the manufacturer discs.. (ugh, you're really unfortunate to have been stuck with this OS, would recommend a 7 upgrade if you're so inclined)

Damn, I was afraid it might come to this. I've been thinking lately about needing a new computer. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and buy one if my old one is lost. I'm really torn/nervous with regards to saving all my old data, though. Bleh. Thanks for the help.
 
GAF, please help. I just picked up a new Sony VAIO windows 8 laptop. It loaded up and connected to my WiFi right off the bat with no problems. I then downloaded iTunes, Chrome, and then Avast. Shortly after that I was unable to connect to the internet despite the fact that it shows a strong, still connected WiFi.

I have rebooted and it processed all of the necessary updates. Please let me know what I'm missing. Thanks!
 

Dai101

Banned
GAF, please help. I just picked up a new Sony VAIO windows 8 laptop. It loaded up and connected to my WiFi right off the bat with no problems. I then downloaded iTunes, Chrome, and then Avast. Shortly after that I was unable to connect to the internet despite the fact that it shows a strong, still connected WiFi.

I have rebooted and it processed all of the necessary updates. Please let me know what I'm missing. Thanks!

Why would you install avast? Get rid of it, W8 already has an antivir program running, if you really need one get kaspersky at least. Also check if this (avast) hasn't modified anything on your connection.
 
Why would you install avast? Get rid of it, W8 already has an antivir program running, if you really need one get kaspersky at least. Also check if this (avast) hasn't modified anything on your connection.

Used it on my last computer and thought it was a good program. I'll uninstall it though and see if it helps.

So the default W8 security is adequate for normal usage?


Edit - and that did it. Thanks for the help :)
 

Skytylz

Banned
This may be too obscure, but I just spent all day trying to get linux to boot from an internal HDD with this setup: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDAMA-Server-Motherboard-Dual-AMD-Opteron-250-2-4GHz-/260755977530

I say linux because I tried several versions. Anyways, the closest I got was macpup booting from the usb drive, but I could never get that to copy over to the internal hdds and boot. I made it through the install of ubuntu and xubuntu from the usb drive but when i rebooted at the end I would just end up at a black screen with a blinking cursor. Any tips?

Also, I didn't buy this from that ebay listing so don't make fun of me :p My cousin gave it to me and it seems to be a bit over my head! My ultimate goal is to make a media server out of it for music and maybe some videos if it can handle it. I finished my internship for the summer and have a few weeks so i thought this was a good project to keep me busy for a while.

Edit: So I gave up trying to get it to boot from one of the internal hard drives. I think it may be an issue with the hdds being connected through a pci card. I decided to go with an UnRAID set up. I can throw Plex or Serviio on there to get the functionality I'm looking for.
 

Emwitus

Member
Hi tech gaf.
Im starting to hate pc's but i digress. Recently, my computer started flashing. Like it's like the computer would flicker off for a second and come back on(I'm assuming it's just the monitor but i'm also losing sound for a sec and its not an actually reboot). I'm not sure what it is. This happens randomly....don't know how else two describe it. I've never had an issue with viruses in well over a year. Two biggest changes are me starting to use it for gaming and i installed a server called soundwire to listen to sound wirelessly. PLEASE HELP.
 

Herne

Member
Alright guys, big post here, apologies for that in advance.

I have a series of desktop and laptop computers in my apartment hooked up to an Asus DSL-N55U router through various means. My own desktop is connected directly to the router, one of my flatmate has one cable connected to the router which goes up into his room, and connects to a switch which is then connected to his two desktops. Also connected to the router is a cable going into the kitchen, which connects to another switch, the TP-Link SG100-5D. Connected to this is my other flatmate's desktop, and the media pc in the living room. The laptops are connected to the one wifi source in the apartment, the router.

Now, all of the cables and switches we had until recently were 100mb, and I wanted to upgrade to gigabit. So I replaced the switch in the kitchen with the SG100-5D, and everything connected to it fine with no issues. Yesterday the CAT6 gigabit cables arrived in the post and I hooked them up - one replacing the cable going from the router to the switch in the kitchen, and the other replacing the cable to the media pc. I do transfer a lot between the media pc and my desktop, so those were the ones I wanted upgraded first (my desktop has long had a gigabit cable connected at 100mb). My flatmate's desktop in the kitchen remained connected at 100mb with the new CAT6 cable connecting the switch to the router, and that's fine, it means there is no issue with the cable. I say that, however, because the media pc refuses to connect using it's new cable.

It is giving the hair-tearing issue of the unidentified network problem, my old nemesis which I have not experienced in some time. Usually it can be fixed by assigning an IP address to the machine, then adding a network address, or adding the address first, then adding an ip address and removing the network address.. just trial and error until it decides to work. But nothing I've done will solve this one. It is really pissing me off, because the one machine I really do want hooked up via gigabit is the one that won't play ball. The media pc is a S775 based machine, with the Asus motherboard carrying an Atheros AR8131 ethernet adapter, which is a gigabit adapter. It even says so when I click on the adapter status. The light does come on the switch when I connect the cable into a port, meaning it is recognising that it is there.

I have tried the usual TCP/IP and network address shenanigans, I have disabled and uninstalled the adapter, unplugged the cable from the switch and plugged into another port, unplugged it and turned off the switch then plugged it back in and turned the switch back on, plugged the cable going from the switch to the router into another port on both (though my flatmate's pc has no issue so that's not the problem), reset the IP stack... I'm really at the end of my tether. If I assign it an IP address and type in my router's address (192.168.1.1) into the default gateway, it gives an error about it not being correct or something. It won't ping the router, says something about a general failure to transmit. It does not show up on the router's connected devices list. I cannot ping it from any other machine. I have tried telling it in Advanced System Settings that the network is a home one (it always defaults to business for some reason, and never changes anyway no matter what I tell it). It will not bring up the network map.

Any suggestions would be great guys, I am so sick of this bloody issue, I have had it before but have always been able to resolve it eventually. But this time it's worrying that it's giving the error about the default gateway address is wrong, that it won't ping the router's IP. If it means anything, the two cables I bought can be seen here.
 
OK folks, an annoying thing that's popped up just in the last few weeks:

Whenever I try to open a .pdf file in Adobe's reader (or in my browser), I get the following message:
"Adobe Reader cannot open in Protected Mode due to a problem with your system configuration. Would you like to open Adobe Reader with Protected Mode disabled?"
I can access the file if I select the option to open in protected mode, but regardless of the choice, I cannot open any other program on the computer, including OS programs. I get a "0xc0000142" error every time. A reboot fixes the problem, but I know it's related to Adobe; I can reproduce the issue.

I'm using Foxit to open .pdf files, which works great—there aren't any issues opening other programs afterward. But I'm still very confused... I haven't made any major changes to the system recently, I don't think.


I'm running 64bit Win 8, if that matters.
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
I have tried the usual TCP/IP and network address shenanigans, I have disabled and uninstalled the adapter, unplugged the cable from the switch and plugged into another port, unplugged it and turned off the switch then plugged it back in and turned the switch back on, plugged the cable going from the switch to the router into another port on both (though my flatmate's pc has no issue so that's not the problem), reset the IP stack... I'm really at the end of my tether. If I assign it an IP address and type in my router's address (192.168.1.1) into the default gateway, it gives an error about it not being correct or something. It won't ping the router, says something about a general failure to transmit. It does not show up on the router's connected devices list. I cannot ping it from any other machine. I have tried telling it in Advanced System Settings that the network is a home one (it always defaults to business for some reason, and never changes anyway no matter what I tell it). It will not bring up the network map.
[/URL].
i read this part twice, so sorry if you mentioned it, but did you try a different gigabit cable?

Other than that, I would say move the media pc into where the router is and plug it in with the cable thats connected to your regular PC, eliminate all the variables. If it works there go further out. If it doesnt then the NIC card may be bad with CAT6 but works fine on CAT5.


OK folks, an annoying thing that's popped up just in the last few weeks:

Whenever I try to open a .pdf file in Adobe's reader (or in my browser), I get the following message:

I can access the file if I select the option to open in protected mode, but regardless of the choice, I cannot open any other program on the computer, including OS programs. I get a "0xc0000142" error every time. A reboot fixes the problem, but I know it's related to Adobe; I can reproduce the issue.

I'm using Foxit to open .pdf files, which works great—there aren't any issues opening other programs afterward. But I'm still very confused... I haven't made any major changes to the system recently, I don't think.


I'm running 64bit Win 8, if that matters.
have you tried any of this?
http://helpx.adobe.com/acrobat/kb/reader-core-dll-error.html

I've seen this before, and the only thing I ever found to fix it was to uninstall and re-install.

As to you haven't made any changes.... no worries, Adobe just sucks :)
 
have you tried any of this?
http://helpx.adobe.com/acrobat/kb/reader-core-dll-error.html

I've seen this before, and the only thing I ever found to fix it was to uninstall and re-install.

As to you haven't made any changes.... no worries, Adobe just sucks :)

Thanks! I downloaded the installer and tried to install it over my current installation when trying to solve the issue, but it told me I already had it installed. I'll do a full reinstall over the weekend.

Such an odd problem.
 

Herne

Member
i read this part twice, so sorry if you mentioned it, but did you try a different gigabit cable?

Other than that, I would say move the media pc into where the router is and plug it in with the cable thats connected to your regular PC, eliminate all the variables. If it works there go further out. If it doesnt then the NIC card may be bad with CAT6 but works fine on CAT5.

I didn't try a different gigabit cable, as the two I bought are the only ones I have. And I can't really move the media pc, or use the cable that's connected to my desktop - the media pc is in the living room, the router is in the hall and my desktop is on another floor.

Thanks for the response, though...
 
Youtube quesiton here.

Is anyone else having these problems?

1. Youtube wont load music, only video until X amount of the video has passed
2. Youtube wont load pass 2 seconds


I have to keep refreshing the page until it finally works.

Its a newly built PC, a week old, with Chrome as my browser.


Sooooo infuriating at the moment.
 

Dai101

Banned
Youtube quesiton here.

Is anyone else having these problems?

1. Youtube wont load music, only video until X amount of the video has passed
2. Youtube wont load pass 2 seconds


I have to keep refreshing the page until it finally works.

Its a newly built PC, a week old, with Chrome as my browser.


Sooooo infuriating at the moment.

There's your problem.
 

Dai101

Banned
Is it seriously Chome causing it?

I mean christ, you'd expect the company that owns both Chrome and Youtube to not have any faults with the two.

To b fair i don't really know, i just hate that product. It's so fucking awful. Try with any other browser, Firefox, Opera, hell, even IE is better than chrome and see how it works.

Just blue.
The same colour my screen gets when there it's not getting anything, so I don't think it's a BSOD.

It's as if my PC is turning off (afaik my monitor cares), but all the fans are still trucking on.

Weird. If it was a BSOD i'll say it was a driver or something.
 
I am using an old Mac Keyboard on my Windows 7 PC.

This one here exactly.



I used this Key Tweak software to easily swap the "Command ⌘" key with the Control Key on the corner of the keyboard to make it Windows keyboard friendly. But what I cannot do is figure out how to make any of the (Function) F14, F15 and F16 keys to work as a "Print Screen" key.

I take screen shots lot for whatever reasons, but now I cannot do it with my physical keyboard, can only do it by using the (soft) windows on screen keyboard.

Which is obviously far less practical than hitting "Ctrl + Prt Scn"

Can anyone out there tell me how to make "Ctrl + Prt Scn" work on Windows (7) for this keyboard? Much appreciate it.

(Yes. I know, just go out and buy a cheap windows keyboard. etc. etc. but for now I am stuck with this.)

Snipping Tool.
 

MNC

Member
Hey TechGAF,

I have a laptop. 3 USB ports. Since this morning, every time I stick a bluetooth adapter in USB port #3, it completely shuts down instantly (short circuits?) This does not happen in other slots with the bluetooth adapter, or with other devices in port #3. It only happens in port #3, with bluetooth adapter.

What is this?
Why is it happening?
Can I resolve it and if so, how?
 
Just built a new PC. i5 processor, Samsung SSD, Sapphire 7970 GPU, and such. Things are working well. I fired up BioShock Infinite to test how well it ran, and everything was flawless on high settings.

A few days pass. I add a VGA connection to a monitor, so I'll have that along with my HDMI connection to TV. Try BioShock again and now it stutters like crazy. Checked processes, restarted, and still it's running terribly. I opened Windows Experience Index and it's giving me a 6.5 for graphics and gaming graphics. Everything else in the high 7s.

Any ideas on what's wrong?
 
When I power on my PC I have to select Windows 7 with the enter button on like an old bios type screen before my computer will start, drives me mental.

Any thoughts ?, any help appreciated !
 
When I power on my PC I have to select Windows 7 with the enter button on like an old bios type screen before my computer will start, drives me mental.

Any thoughts ?, any help appreciated !

If Windows 7 is the only OS you're running on your system and you're not multibooting, you can do the following:-

1. Head to the Advanced System Settings (Start --> type in Advanced System Settings --> scroll to view Advanced system Settings and press enter.)

2. In the System Properties box, head to the Startup and recovery settings panel.

3. In the Startup and recovery settings panel, untick "Time to display list of operating systems" and also ensure that the "Default operating system" is set to Windows 7.

4. Hit OK, and reboot your computer when asked to do so.

5. Your PC should boot straight to Windows from now on.
 
If Windows 7 is the only OS you're running on your system and you're not multibooting, you can do the following:-

1. Head to the Advanced System Settings (Start --> type in Advanced System Settings --> scroll to view Advanced system Settings and press enter.)

2. In the System Properties box, head to the Startup and recovery settings panel.

3. In the Startup and recovery settings panel, untick "Time to display list of operating systems" and also ensure that the "Default operating system" is set to Windows 7.

4. Hit OK, and reboot your computer when asked to do so.

5. Your PC should boot straight to Windows from now on.

Thanks so much mate, you're a star !.
 
Snipping Tool.

Thanks for the reply, you were the only one, I appreciate it immensely...

I settled with a freeware app called "SharpKeys" got rid of "Key Tweak" (Even though it had an easier to use UI, though it was not functioning fully.)


SharpKeys goes right in there and changes the Regkeys for your keyboard ( It's safe, you can always reverse it once you are done using the mac keyboard using the SharpKeys app again ) Anyway everything worked great, programmed the PrtnScr key easily etc.

Here's the blog I followed step by step, fully served my needs.
 
http://www.diffen.com/difference/FAT32_vs_NTFS

FAT32 is compatible with anything, from mobile phones to media players to cameras and etc. but has disadvantages in modern environments like video production for it size limit (Up to 4GB per file)

Not to mention its (FAT32) much higher cluster sizes make it grossly more inefficient when storing smaller size files on the HDD. You waste more real disk space using FAT32 vs NTFS if using the default cluster settings.

A disk meant to be used solely for a Windows OS (XP and beyond) should be formatted on nothing BUT NTFS.
 
Hey, TechSupport GAF. I have a Mac Pro desktop from... I don't know, I think 2006, and it's starting to go (no surprise). I've added stuff to it over the years, so it's still more than enough computer for my needs, but I'm pretty sure the power supply and motherboard are about to fail. Considering Mac Pro desktops aren't the cheapest, should I (can I?) just look into replacing these things? I assume the power supply won't be too bad, but what can I do about the motherboard that doesn't involve getting reamed by Apple? I mean, I love my Macs, but let's not pretend they're cheap ever. Looking for tips and advice. Husband has some experience working on PCs so can probably do the replacements if I go that route and find out where to look for parts, but if a replacement motherboard is going to be crazy expensive, I'll just break down and grumble my way to a new Mac.
 
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