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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

T

Telaso

Banned
Alright gaf, see if you have an answer to something that no one in my organization has, or anything that 10 of us can find online.

I have two computers that when loading a certain internal webpage with IE it doesnt work. I have tried version 8-10 on each of them. FF and Chrome work just fine. Other computers in the company, work just fine with IE on every version. Its not a compatibility issue that I can see.

Here is the weird part, I go into the dev options and disable CSS from loading, then it all comes up and works fine. I have compared the settings on the working computers and everything looks identical. This has been driving me nuts.....

Edit: I believe the issue is with extra fonts being installed on a few peoples computers!
 
Z

Zynx

Member
Quick question - I just reinstalled windows 7 (without wiping my data), and as far as I remember, I should proceed with my motherboard drivers, then video card drivers next. Is there anything else I need to do before proceeding with installing my usual programs and such?
 
K

kirblar

Member
Deleted a large backlog of unused games from my hard drive last night. Is causing major issues today. System was freezing repeatedly, now won't boot up outside of Safe Mode. Is not the FX card, removed it, downloaded onboard FX drivers, same issue appeared. (However, graphics in safe mode? Much nicer!) Seems like there's some major issue, likely with the graphics, but have no idea how to troubleshoot or remedy something like this.
 
P

poodpick

Member
Just build a new haswell system and it seems to be running extremely hot. Is 80-90 degrees under load normal?

4770k
stock intel cooler
asus z87-a

motherboard chipset runs at 30-35 degrees

cpucsgozsjkp.png
 
Jzero

Jzero

Member
poodpick said:
Just build a new haswell system and it seems to be running extremely hot. Is 80-90 degrees under load normal?

4770k
stock intel cooler
asus z87-a

motherboard chipset runs at 30-35 degrees

cpucsgozsjkp.png
Click to expand...

You should get an aftermarket cooler. The stock ones usually suck.
 
A

Addnan

Member
poodpick said:
Just build a new haswell system and it seems to be running extremely hot. Is 80-90 degrees under load normal?

4770k
stock intel cooler
asus z87-a

motherboard chipset runs at 30-35 degrees

cpucsgozsjkp.png
Click to expand...

What case do you have it in? Overclocked?

Haswell generally runs warmer than Ivy, but even then 90 whist gaming, assuming not overclocked, not stress testing is a little higher than I would like even if it is with stock cooler.

An aftermarket cooler will certainly help. Cooler Master Hyper 212 is the go to cooler. It's cheap and it is good.
 
P

poodpick

Member
Addnan said:
What case do you have it in? Overclocked?

Haswell generally runs warmer than Ivy, but even then 90 whist gaming, assuming not overclocked, not stress testing is a little higher than I would like even if it is with stock cooler.

An aftermarket cooler will certainly help. Cooler Master Hyper 212 is the go to cooler. It's cheap and it is good.
Click to expand...

I'm running stock clocks and stock cooler. I have an old thermalright extreme 120 w/scythe s-flex fan that I can slap on there if lga775 coolers work on lga1150 mounts. Just wondering whether I should take this cpu back and exchange it at microcenter. Will be picking up a noctua nh-d14 in the near future.

Edit: Gigabyte aurora 3D 570
 
A

Addnan

Member
poodpick said:
I'm running stock clocks and stock cooler. I have an old thermalright extreme 120 w/scythe s-flex fan that I can slap on there if lga775 coolers work on lga1150 mounts. Just wondering whether I should take this cpu back and exchange it at microcenter. Will be picking up a noctua nh-d14 in the near future.

Edit: Gigabyte aurora 3D 570
Click to expand...

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=600246&page=122 Post in there. Maybe someone with better cooling knowledge can reply to you.

It could be that your CPU cooler has not been installed correctly, or poor airflow, but I don't see the latter having such an impact to the point of throttling.
 
A

Afro

Member
I may be doing something wrong, but I'm trying to use my 360 headset with my PC via the official wired controller.

Here are the steps I found online and it almost worked.

1) Plug in your headset to your controller.
2) Plug in your controller into your PC's usb port.
3 Click Start > Settings > Control Panel > Sounds, Speech and Audio Devices > Sounds and Audio Devices > Audio (Tab). Under Playback, choose your sound card in your PC. Under Recording, choose XBOX 360 for Windows (Headset). Click Volume for Recording and slide it to maximum.

My friend could hear me talking, but his voice would only come out of my speakers and not the headset. Is this even possible or do I just need a PC headset?
 
T

t-ramp

Member
Afro said:
I may be doing something wrong, but I'm trying to use my 360 headset with my PC via the official wired controller.

Here are the steps I found online and it almost worked.

1) Plug in your headset to your controller.
2) Plug in your controller into your PC's usb port.
3 Click Start > Settings > Control Panel > Sounds, Speech and Audio Devices > Sounds and Audio Devices > Audio (Tab). Under Playback, choose your sound card in your PC. Under Recording, choose XBOX 360 for Windows (Headset). Click Volume for Recording and slide it to maximum.

My friend could hear me talking, but his voice would only come out of my speakers and not the headset. Is this even possible or do I just need a PC headset?
Click to expand...
You probably need to set the headset as the default playback device.

I don't know if there's a way to send game audio to the speakers and communication audio to the headset, though, if that's your goal.
 
V

Vyer

Member
Vox-Pop said:
I can't connect my iPhone to my PC. Drivers won't update. Any idea what's wrong?
Click to expand...

Do you have any problems with Windows Update? Have you connected the phone to the PC before?

I don't connect my iphone to my PC much anymore, but I have seen a simple unplug iphone-restart-plug back in fix the driver error before.
 
V

Vox-Pop

Contains Sucralose
Vyer said:
Do you have any problems with Windows Update? Have you connected the phone to the PC before?

I don't connect my iphone to my PC much anymore, but I have seen a simple unplug iphone-restart-plug back in fix the driver error before.
Click to expand...

First time. Windows Update never works, always get an error while downloading message.

It now recognizes it as a camera after some tampering. iTunes dose not recognize it.
 
P

params7

Banned
A Human Becoming said:
Is a combo of Advanced SystemCare, Malwarebytes, Ad-Aware Antivirus and CCleaner overkill?
Click to expand...

Way too fucking overkill. Malwarebytes is the only scanner you need to deal with viruses, trojans, spy and adwares. It'll find everything Ad-Aware will + more. I haven't used CCleaner and related tune up utilities in a while, I don't think they really make much of a difference anymore with Win 7 onwards.
 
V

Vyer

Member
Vox-Pop said:
First time. Windows Update never works, always get an error while downloading message.

It now recognizes it as a camera after some tampering. iTunes dose not recognize it.
Click to expand...

Do you mean your Windows Update never works period, or just when trying to get these specific drivers?

What version of Windows do you have?
 
F

frogg609

Member
So my current drive setup

C: SSD (OS, some programs)
D: Data (my docs etc, Steam, Origin, Blizzard games)

I'm getting a 2TB drive today, and was going to use the WD version of Acronis TrueImage to copy everything from D: to my new drive.

If I do that, then shut down, pull the old D: drive, then make the new one D: (if it doesn't automatically do this), will I have any real issues, or will I be okay?
 
D

Dai101

Banned
frogg609 said:
So my current drive setup

C: SSD (OS, some programs)
D: Data (my docs etc, Steam, Origin, Blizzard games)

I'm getting a 2TB drive today, and was going to use the WD version of Acronis TrueImage to copy everything from D: to my new drive.

If I do that, then shut down, pull the old D: drive, then make the new one D: (if it doesn't automatically do this), will I have any real issues, or will I be okay?
Click to expand...

It should be OK. Then again if Windows assigns a new letter you can manually assign the required letter.
 
F

frogg609

Member
Dai101 said:
It should be OK. Then again if Windows assigns a new letter you can manually assign the required letter.
Click to expand...

Cool. Yea I figured Windows may not be nice about it, and that's fine. Just want to make sure I'm not going to have to reinstall those apps after doing it (annoying to me).

Thanks!
 
D

Dai101

Banned
BTW. Do that outside of your current Windows install. Do it from a standalone environment or if your Acronis can boot from itself even better.
 
G

Glasshole

Banned
Alright guys, this is a tough one.

I built myself a PC with an SSD (40gb) as well as a RAID 5 (3 x 2.00tb) setup about two years ago. The RAID 5 worked like a charm, always has.

The SSD however turned out to be a very bad decision. I put almost exclusively windows 7 on it, almost no other programs ( ! ) apart from the ones I'm gonna mention further on. Windows, however, would proceed to just basically shit itself to death: Initially, I had 10 of those 40gb free, but with time, it would just fill that space up with nonsense, huge old install files that weren't deleted, and some programs would still put some files on this drive (C:) even though they were installed on D: (the RAID 5), which is of course not unusual.

So the SSD would regularly just fill up until I had 0kb left on C: and I would try to make some space, as usual.
However, last night I was downloading some larger (legal) stuff through torrent (utorrent) and let the computer run overnight. When I checked it in the morning, there were warnings that there was no space left on C: again, and next time I checked, D: was fucking gone.

Disk Manager says:
The virtual disk is there, it is however labelled "unallocated space"

AMD RAIDXpert says:
Everything should be up to normal, they're still assigned to the volume I assigned them to. "Functional", etc. However, it does state that 1.99 of 2tb on each drive are used, and 300mb on each are free, but I think that's normal?

Thinking that windows had just destroyed itself, I bought a new 120gb SSD today and installed Windows 7 anew with all drivers, replaced the old SSD. No luck: Same shit here.

I googled this fault of course, but I was unable to find anything. Also, I have not dared to "create a simple volume" on it, which is the only option Disk Manager gives me. Thought I'd rather backcheck with you guys.

Any help will be much appreciated. I've got at least 2 tb on this RAID, half of which is data I need for university.
 
C

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
Glasshole said:
Alright guys, this is a tough one.

I built myself a PC with an SSD (40gb) as well as a RAID 5 (3 x 2.00gb) setup about two years ago. The RAID 5 worked like a charm, always has.

The SSD however turned out to be a very bad decision. I put almost exclusively windows 7 on it, almost no other programs ( ! ) apart from the ones I'm gonna mention further on. Windows, however, would proceed to just basically shit itself to death: Initially, I had 10 of those 40gb free, but with time, it would just fill that space up with nonsense, huge old install files that weren't deleted, and some programs would still put some files on this drive (C:) even though they were installed on D: (the RAID 5), which is of course not unusual.

So the SSD would regularly just fill up until I had 0kb left on C: and I would try to make some space, as usual.
However, last night I was downloading some larger (legal) stuff through torrent (utorrent) and let the computer run overnight. When I checked it in the morning, there were warnings that there was no space left on C: again, and next time I checked, D: was fucking gone.

Disk Manager says:
The virtual disk is there, it is however labelled "unallocated space"

AMD RAIDXpert says:
Everything should be up to normal, they're still assigned to the volume I assigned them to. "Functional", etc. However, it does state that 1.99 of 2gb on each drive are used, and 300mb on each are free, but I think that's normal?

Thinking that windows had just destroyed itself, I bought a new 120gb SSD today and installed Windows 7 anew with all drivers, replaced the old SSD. No luck: Same shit here.

I googled this fault of course, but I was unable to find anything. Also, I have not dared to "create a simple volume" on it, which is the only option Disk Manager gives me. Thought I'd rather backcheck with you guys.

Any help will be much appreciated. I've got at least 2 gb on this RAID, half of which is data I need for university.
Click to expand...

was the RAID5 created with Windows disk manager or via BIOS raid controller? Or some other software?

Its highly, highly unlikely that the entire RAID died at once, though it is possible and would be some really bad luck. I would start with making sure all the drives in the RAID are powered and that they are all connected properly to the motherboard.

When my SSD died I had 2 500gb drives in a RAID 0 created by windows, when I got back into my new Windows install it saw them and imported them fine.
 
G

Glasshole

Banned
captive said:
was the RAID5 created with Windows disk manager or via BIOS raid controller? Or some other software?

Its highly, highly unlikely that the entire RAID died at once, though it is possible and would be some really bad luck. I would start with making sure all the drives in the RAID are powered and that they are all connected properly to the motherboard.

When my SSD died I had 2 500gb drives in a RAID 0 created by windows, when I got back into my new Windows install it saw them and imported them fine.
Click to expand...

As far as I can remember, I assigned them in a BIOS GUI, and I believe I partitioned them in Windows later on so I could use them. Standard procedure, I believe?

They are connected and powered properly. As I said, even RAIDXpert says that they're all fine.
 
C

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
Glasshole said:
As far as I can remember, I assigned them in a BIOS GUI, and I believe I partitioned them in Windows later on so I could use them. Standard procedure, I believe?

They are connected and powered properly. As I said, even RAIDXpert says that they're all fine.
Click to expand...

is RAIDxper the raid controller? If you built it through the BIOS Raid controller it sounds like it went bad.
 
A

aett

Member
Reposting this from the 560ti/i5 2500k thread:

Bumping this thread because I just tried to overclock my 560 ti a little bit. I used MSI Afterburner and started off just adjusting the core clock a little bit to test it out, but when I run FurMark, it shuts down after a second and I get the following error message:

"The NVIDIA OpenGL driver lost connectionn with the display driver due to exceeding the Windows Time-Out limit and is unable to continue.
The application must close.

Error code: 7"

Anyone seen this before?
Click to expand...

The only suggestion someone offered was that my card's voltage might be low. That made sense to me, because both Bioshock Infinite and Tomb Raider (2013) would crash my computer unless I manually raised my card's voltage from 0.987v to 1.025v. So, I tried doing that again while barely overclocking my card, but FurMark still crashed and I got the exact same OpenGL error message.

Any help would be appreciated. Every part of my PC came from one of the suggested builds here on NeoGAF back in September 2011, and both the graphics card and the processor were highly recommended as they were both great for overclocking. Now that I'm finally trying to do so but can't, I'm really disappointed.
 
M

malfcn

Member
At 1am my aeroglass (whatever) switched to basic. Everything is legit though. (Win 7 Pro)
And it just switched back on its own. What the heck.
 
B

brianmcdoogle

Member
I forgot about this thread, and even though I created a thread about this, I'll post here as well...


I recently got a raspberry pi that I'm trying to configure into a sort of VPN hotspot that I can connect to on a wide variety of devices. For example, I want my notebook, phone, and desktop to all connect to a raspberry pi and have their internet activity filtered through the VPN. I'm running into trouble.

I've followed the steps to set up my raspberry pi as a wifi point using THIS GUIDE, and it works wonderfully; I can connect to the raspberry pi and access the internet through all of those devices.

Then, I installed OpenVPN by doing this:
Code: 
sudo apt-get install openvpn resolvconf
And then downloading my VPN configuration files to /etc/openvpn/
Finally,
Code: 
sudo /etc/init.d/openvpn start

And, this is where things get screwed up. While SSH'ed into the raspberry pi, I can check the ip address of the raspberry pi before and after the VPN starts by doing
Code: 
curl ifconfig.me
, and it does indeed show a change in the ip address which means the VPN is connecting.

The problem is that any devices that now connects through the wifi point of the raspberry pi no longer has any internet connectivity; after connecting to the raspberry pi when the VPN is started, I can't load a webpage. I don't really know what to do. Any help?
 
S

sn00zer

Member
So im having a weird skype issue. My friend has a mac computer with windows installed....when in windows mode the video quality is super, full HD blah blah blah.....but when in Mac mode the video quality is quite shite. Does anyone running Windows and Mac on their comp know of this issue or how to fix it?
 
R

Robso

Member
Is there a program out there able to stream games from my PC to a laptop seamlessly with no lag?

Imagine it's not likely. :(
 
S

smokeandmirrors

Banned
I think a power outage took out my nic on my motherboard. I can't connect out and even after resetting the connection, deleting and reinstalling the driver, and running ipconfig, it still won't connect. It doesn't even list a default gateway. The computer doesn't even show in my router page. Checked all the cables and they work, just not for this computer...

Anything else I can do to fix it?
 
S

Sneaky Gato

Member
I'm having a rather weird issue with my laptop. When I go to shut off the computer it just becomes stuck at the shutting down screen. I've left it there for hours and it never gets off that screen and I have to manually press the power button. When I turn it back on though it acts as if it had just shut down normally. It also happens about half the time a reset. Any ideas of what may be causing this? As far as I can tell it is having no effect on the normal operations. It is just this one isolated thing.
 
A

ambientmystic

Member
Sneaky Gato said:
I'm having a rather weird issue with my laptop. When I go to shut off the computer it just becomes stuck at the shutting down screen. I've left it there for hours and it never gets off that screen and I have to manually press the power button. When I turn it back on though it acts as if it had just shut down normally. It also happens about half the time a reset. Any ideas of what may be causing this? As far as I can tell it is having no effect on the normal operations. It is just this one isolated thing.
Click to expand...

Try the following (for diagnostic purposes only):-

1. Boot up your PC in Safe mode. (hit F8 before the Windows logo comes up after the BIOS screen finishes doing it's thing)

2. After Windows loads up, Shutdown (yes, shutdown) your PC again normally.

3. Take note if there's a difference. If the laptop doesn't get stuck anymore, it means that one your background applications is the cause of the hold up (a software issue/OS issue). Safe mode means that only a barebones version of Windows is loaded up, so we're taking your apps that start up normally together with Windows in the background out of the equation.

4. If the laptop still gets stuck, we're then venturing into hardware territory.

Do reply back with your findings.
 
S

Sagitario

Member
Anyone knows a bit about DD-WRT and its commands?
I'm trying these codes on an Atheros based router to change the MAC address:
ifconfig ath0 down
ifconfig ath0 hw ether 40:53:50:4F:4F:44
ifconfig ath0 up
Click to expand...
First and second lines work ("ifconfig -a" shows the interface as down with that specific MAC), and theoretically the third one too since the wireless LED indicator turns on when executing it (the ifconfig command also says ath0 is up).
But after that, there is no wi-fi signal at all (phone, laptop, consoles and handhelds don't show the SSID when searching for it). The only way to fix this is manually restarting the router (off/on switch) or clicking "Apply Settings" (no changes necessary) in the Wireless tab of the DD-WRT control panel (cause that makes the router restart).
If I change the MAC in Address Clone tab, the router resets/restarts itself with the new address (all LEDs but the power one turn off and then back on).
So, is "ifconfig ath0 up" missing something to actually enable the wireless signal (and not only starting the interface)?
 
O

oni_saru

Member
So my laptop fell off the bed and the charging needle on the side moved a bit. I opened it up to fix it but it seemed the plastic box thing that kept the needle in place broke so I was left with just the needle and the other metal part that make charging/power possible.

I had a temporary solution that involved that special tape for electronics. But that may have been a fire hazard. So my question is, are there usb capable batteries out there for laptops?

I found this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002K8M9HC/?tag=neogaf0e-20 but I"m not sure if this is a viable long term solution. Anything better? The charging needle for the laptop is a straight no go now. and from what I read I would need to replace the whole charging part.
 
D

Dai101

Banned
oni_saru said:
So my laptop fell off the bed and the charging needle on the side moved a bit. I opened it up to fix it but it seemed the plastic box thing that kept the needle in place broke so I was left with just the needle and the other metal part that make charging/power possible.

I had a temporary solution that involved that special tape for electronics. But that may have been a fire hazard. So my question is, are there usb capable batteries out there for laptops?

I found this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002K8M9HC/?tag=neogaf0e-20 but I"m not sure if this is a viable long term solution. Anything better? The charging needle for the laptop is a straight no go now. and from what I read I would need to replace the whole charging part.
Click to expand...

Long time solution? Only repairing/replacing that part.
 
I

I H8 Memes

Member
Hey guys I'm having trouble with my xbox 360 controller after a reformat of my machine. In Steam BPM the sticks work but none of the triggers do, pressing A button does nothing and pressing B button does what A button should do. Home button doesnt work at all. The full circle of light around the home button does light up when booting the PC but the normal way that one section around home button should be lit (indicating Player 1 controller) is never lit.

Just problems all around with the controller right now. I dont have any games installed that I could test the controller out with right now, but I'm sure it would be the same results anyway.
 
H

Hawkian

The Cryptarch's Bane
I H8 Memes said:
Hey guys I'm having trouble with my xbox 360 controller after a reformat of my machine. In Steam BPM the sticks work but none of the triggers do, pressing A button does nothing and pressing B button does what A button should do. Home button doesnt work at all. The full circle of light around the home button does light up when booting the PC but the normal way that one section around home button should be lit (indicating Player 1 controller) is never lit.

Just problems all around with the controller right now. I dont have any games installed that I could test the controller out with right now, but I'm sure it would be the same results anyway.
Click to expand...
First thing you need to try is uninstalling the device from device manager and then readding it with freshly obtained drivers.

Is this a wireless controller?
 
I

I H8 Memes

Member
Hawkian said:
First think you need to try is uninstalling the device from device manager and then readding it with freshly obtained drivers.

Is this a wireless controller?
Click to expand...


This didnt work. But it did give me the idea to go ahead and uninstall and reinstall my usb driver software. Then I uninstalled and reinstalled the controller software. I now have the correct lighting around the home button, but still no triggers are working in BPM and B is to select something and X to go back instead of A to select and B to back. I will wait until I have a game I can test with installed then come back if this is still a problem and not just a problem with Steams BPM.


Edit: Seems to be working fine in games now that i have reinstalled both usb and controller drivers. Must just be a bug with BPM.
 
G

gerg

Member
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, as I'd really like to avoid losing my laptop while someone takes a look at this.

Yesterday I noticed that Firefox seemed slower than normal - GIFs especially wouldn't play smoothly, and would skip or freeze every so often. (YouTube videos, on the other hand, played fine,) Today I decided to reset it (as Mozilla suggests), but this made the problem worse. Now it crashes all the time, text doesn't display in the url bar as I type it, and if I open menus they display black until I scroll over each item.

I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling Firefox. I've run a fall scan on Malwarebytes, which picked up nothing. I've even tried a system restore, which brings up another, bigger problem, in that every time I attempt to do so I get an error message "0x80070005". (This says that the restore couldn't complete as it can't access a file, which is "probably" caused by anti-malware software. However, aside from Malwarebytes I only have MSE installed.)

Is it worth trying a system restore in safe mode, or am I screwed?
 
T

tci

Member
If you disable HWA in Firefox, does it also happen? Also I would delete the browser data which I'm guessing the uninstaller doesn't remove. Might be corrupted.

When removing Firefox delete the Firefox folder in: C:\Users\USERNAME\AppData\Local\Mozilla\Firefox

Also you can get the location of the cache folders by typing about:cache in Firefox
 
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