Professor Renegade
Banned
God dammit Microsoft.
-
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
God dammit Microsoft.
fierrotlepou
Member
Hi guys, I just bought an LG LED monitor. I thought everything would be okay out of the box, but it seems that the colors suck. They suck badly.
Can anyone tell me what they might've used to calibrate their monitors?
Or if I should use certain color correction tools on my pc or something?
I have a GTX 770 and a LG 22EN43T-B.
Thanks.
Can anyone tell me what they might've used to calibrate their monitors?
Or if I should use certain color correction tools on my pc or something?
I have a GTX 770 and a LG 22EN43T-B.
Thanks.
LaserBuddha
Member
EDIT: never mind I figured it out.
LaserBuddha
Member
S I've been having an issue with hard lockups in Wndows 7. After a few minutes of being booted up in normal mode, everything on the screen will stop responding, followed quickly by the cursor freezing too. If I boot up and don't sign in, it will soon freeze at the sign on screen too.
This doesn't happen if I start up in Safe mode or start in diagnostic mode. I've already tried restoring to a state before the problem. Malware scans turn up nothing.
What's weird is that before today, it would freeze in safe mode too, and even when I was doing that repair utility from the boot options menu. That's why I went and bought a new power supply today, since the old one was really noisy and underpowered anyway. My problem didn't go away, but now safe mode seems to work fine.
So is the most efficient way to sort out this problem really just to enable services, one at a time, until I see what makes it freeze up? That's going to be tedious...
This doesn't happen if I start up in Safe mode or start in diagnostic mode. I've already tried restoring to a state before the problem. Malware scans turn up nothing.
What's weird is that before today, it would freeze in safe mode too, and even when I was doing that repair utility from the boot options menu. That's why I went and bought a new power supply today, since the old one was really noisy and underpowered anyway. My problem didn't go away, but now safe mode seems to work fine.
So is the most efficient way to sort out this problem really just to enable services, one at a time, until I see what makes it freeze up? That's going to be tedious...
LaserBuddha
Member
Yeah that's a good idea, I just hate having to mess with making a Dell recovery disk. And I already completely reformatted this year.... 
EDIT: NUKE THE BASTARD
EDIT: NUKE THE BASTARD
My computer randomly restarted in the middle of playing Saints Row 2 last night. I installed Core Temp and saw that my CPU was getting temperatures from 60 C to 90 C under load.
I'm not very smart at this, but that seems really hot. I have only used the stock fan/heatsink that came with my i5 2500k. I probably need to buy a new cooling solution, right?
If so, what does Gaf recommend? I have a ECS P67H2-A3 motherboard if that makes any difference.
I'm not very smart at this, but that seems really hot. I have only used the stock fan/heatsink that came with my i5 2500k. I probably need to buy a new cooling solution, right?
If so, what does Gaf recommend? I have a ECS P67H2-A3 motherboard if that makes any difference.
The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is a good choice, as long as your case is wide enough.
How would I know if my case is wide enough? My case has the dimensions of 21.5" x9" x 21.3"(HxWxD), but I know that it isn't as simple as just comparing that to the physical size of the cooler.
Thank you so much for your help!
Alright, having even bigger problems now. After work, I decided to spray out my PC with compressed air. I figured it is possible that dust build up to be contributing to my pc getting hot.
So I plug my pc back in and the first thing I notice is that my computer immediately turns on when I plug it in. I press the front power/reset buttons to no effect. There is nothing being pushed to the monitors, the fans are going but I don't hear the beep when I normally start the computer.
So I google it, and someone online says to unplug the motherboard battery, and plug it back in after five minutes to reset the bios. I am too afraid to do that, and im not exactly sure what that is so I read the manual that came with my motherboard, and it says to press a button on the back (CMOS I think) to reset the bios.
I do that and it is still powers on when I plug it in. I decide to try reseating all of my connections, starting with my ram. I start by reseating one of my ram slots, plug it up to test it and now the computer wont come on at all.
So I guess now my computer is totally broken!
So I plug my pc back in and the first thing I notice is that my computer immediately turns on when I plug it in. I press the front power/reset buttons to no effect. There is nothing being pushed to the monitors, the fans are going but I don't hear the beep when I normally start the computer.
So I google it, and someone online says to unplug the motherboard battery, and plug it back in after five minutes to reset the bios. I am too afraid to do that, and im not exactly sure what that is so I read the manual that came with my motherboard, and it says to press a button on the back (CMOS I think) to reset the bios.
I do that and it is still powers on when I plug it in. I decide to try reseating all of my connections, starting with my ram. I start by reseating one of my ram slots, plug it up to test it and now the computer wont come on at all.
So I guess now my computer is totally broken!
I have a new Eminent EM4556 wBUS 300 wireless receiver which worked worked fine until I rebooted my computer and now I get the error "The settings saved on this computer for the network do not match the requirements of the network" and it cannot connect any longer.
Googling this gave me a whole bunch of results and solutions, none of which seem to help so far.
What I've tried already:
+ Rebooting PC again - plugging out/in - uninstalling/installing - updating drivers
+ Removing and manually re adding the wireless connection in Control Panel\Network and Internet\Manage Wireless Networks
I have another wireless receiver (Eminent EM4454) which works fine, and the settings used to connect to the wireless connection look identical to the new device.
edit: I just tried the Eminent EM4556 wBUS 300 on another laptop and it doesn't work there either, which leads me to believe something is wrong in the receiver?
Solved.
Go through this list to narrow it down:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems
Shorter:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDArticles&op=Story&ndar_id=15
If you have access to a multimeter, you can also check your PSU voltages if it looks like it could be broken:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDArticles&op=Story&ndar_id=25
If it's any consolation, my PC is borked as well atm. I have to wait until the end of the month to fix it after going down some wrong leads. In my case it's most likely the PSU, which is why I have the above links handy.
Have a laptop running Vista Premium, how do I go about doing a clean install without the original installation disc? License key is on the bottom of the laptop, and all I want to do is wipe everything off it and basically go back to factory settings. There is no partition on the drive for recovery.
What options do I have? Google has so far told me that I need to contact the manufacturer to get that disc.
What options do I have? Google has so far told me that I need to contact the manufacturer to get that disc.
You could always find a non-cracked version of the same Vista and install that then use your license. You might have to call microsoft to activate it though. At least, this works for 7...
My turn, I have a 2TB external HDD that I want to partition into 2 drives and format 1 NTFS and 1 FAT32. Is that possible? And what program should I use? I've tried so many programs today and none seem to work..
Casanova
Member
Simple question, I think.
I could spend time looking into it, but even after taking all that time I would probably just make a bad decision anyway. Which is why I'm turning to TechGAF. I'm looking for a quick, reliable answer.
What else can I do to my computer to make FPS much smoother and be able to run low demanding games on medium or so settings on my somewhat old PC? I'm mostly a console gamer, so the only game I really ever play on PC is League of Legends. Which currently runs at 26-33 FPS on 1680x1050 Native Resolution, "Low" all-around settings.
Here are my specs,
System Information
------------------
Time of this report: 9/20/2013, 22:17:29
Machine name: USER-6E7D75B11B
Operating System: Windows XP Professional (5.1, Build 2600) Service Pack 3 (2600.xpsp_sp3_qfe.101209-1646)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: HP-Pavilion
System Model: GS354AA-ABA a6203w
BIOS: Phoenix - AwardBIOS v6.00PG
Processor: AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 4400+, MMX, 3DNow (2 CPUs), ~2.3GHz
Memory: 3070MB RAM
Page File: 832MB used, 3421MB available
Windows Dir: C:\WINDOWS
DirectX Version: DirectX 9.0c (4.09.0000.0904)
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
DxDiag Version: 5.03.2600.5512 32bit Unicode
The graphics card was just recently upgraded and it was relatively cheap ($60- (ATI Radeon HD 5450) )so maybe the graphics card is the single best solution to the issue - or maybe it's just time to stop being so damn cheap and trade this toaster oven in for an actual PC.
Keep in mind, please, that I am cheap(broke), I'm in college, and I have a lot of expenses. I also really don't play PC that much and I don't need a great gaming rig, really.
I did, however, just receive a small bonus so I'm looking for a quick compatible upgrade.
Thanks, GAF.
I could spend time looking into it, but even after taking all that time I would probably just make a bad decision anyway. Which is why I'm turning to TechGAF. I'm looking for a quick, reliable answer.
What else can I do to my computer to make FPS much smoother and be able to run low demanding games on medium or so settings on my somewhat old PC? I'm mostly a console gamer, so the only game I really ever play on PC is League of Legends. Which currently runs at 26-33 FPS on 1680x1050 Native Resolution, "Low" all-around settings.
Here are my specs,
System Information
------------------
Time of this report: 9/20/2013, 22:17:29
Machine name: USER-6E7D75B11B
Operating System: Windows XP Professional (5.1, Build 2600) Service Pack 3 (2600.xpsp_sp3_qfe.101209-1646)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: HP-Pavilion
System Model: GS354AA-ABA a6203w
BIOS: Phoenix - AwardBIOS v6.00PG
Processor: AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 4400+, MMX, 3DNow (2 CPUs), ~2.3GHz
Memory: 3070MB RAM
Page File: 832MB used, 3421MB available
Windows Dir: C:\WINDOWS
DirectX Version: DirectX 9.0c (4.09.0000.0904)
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
DxDiag Version: 5.03.2600.5512 32bit Unicode
The graphics card was just recently upgraded and it was relatively cheap ($60- (ATI Radeon HD 5450) )so maybe the graphics card is the single best solution to the issue - or maybe it's just time to stop being so damn cheap and trade this toaster oven in for an actual PC.
Keep in mind, please, that I am cheap(broke), I'm in college, and I have a lot of expenses. I also really don't play PC that much and I don't need a great gaming rig, really.
I did, however, just receive a small bonus so I'm looking for a quick compatible upgrade.
Thanks, GAF.
Sorry man, that's pretty much rebuild territory. Go to the I Need A New PC thread and read the OP. There are solutions for all budgets.
EDIT: More to your question - while a better video card (the one you got isn't designed for gaming) would help. There's no guarantee that your powersupply or case would have enough power/enough room to run one.
Basically you're looking at the following chain of events.
Buy new video card to play game
powersupply doesn't have enough power/case doesn't have enough room
buy new case and powersupply to run video card
computer still slow because of cpu
buy new cpu
cpu doesn't fit in that motherboard
buy new motherboard
old ram won't work in new motherboard
buy new ram
... so by that point, you're only a hard drive/ssd away from a whole new computer anyway.
There is a cherrypicked $450-500 build in the pc thread that has decent legs for upgrading.
EDIT: More to your question - while a better video card (the one you got isn't designed for gaming) would help. There's no guarantee that your powersupply or case would have enough power/enough room to run one.
Basically you're looking at the following chain of events.
Buy new video card to play game
powersupply doesn't have enough power/case doesn't have enough room
buy new case and powersupply to run video card
computer still slow because of cpu
buy new cpu
cpu doesn't fit in that motherboard
buy new motherboard
old ram won't work in new motherboard
buy new ram
... so by that point, you're only a hard drive/ssd away from a whole new computer anyway.
There is a cherrypicked $450-500 build in the pc thread that has decent legs for upgrading.
Having problems with windows 7 and the mouse freezing after a couple of hours or sometimes minutes from booting up which then crashes the entire system. I checked the hard drive and its fine, no bad sectors.
CPU temp, video card temp: all within range
Memory is working fine, no error messages
Power supply was switched out with a new one and still the problem occured.
I tried different mouses and the freezing then crashing still occurs
I sometimes get a blue screen where it claims it has to memory dump or " A clock interrupt was not received on a secondary processor"
But most of the time when it freezes I get this
CPU temp, video card temp: all within range
Memory is working fine, no error messages
Power supply was switched out with a new one and still the problem occured.
I tried different mouses and the freezing then crashing still occurs
I sometimes get a blue screen where it claims it has to memory dump or " A clock interrupt was not received on a secondary processor"
But most of the time when it freezes I get this
Having problems with windows 7 and the mouse freezing after a couple of hours or sometimes minutes from booting up which then crashes the entire system. I checked the hard drive and its fine, no bad sectors.
CPU temp, video card temp: all within range
Memory is working fine, no error messages
Power supply was switched out with a new one and still the problem occured.
I tried different mouses and the freezing then crashing still occurs
I sometimes get a blue screen where it claims it has to memory dump or " A clock interrupt was not received on a secondary processor"
But most of the time when it freezes I get this
Google tells me that it's related to overclocking, so are you? If so you might wanna turn it off or try finding a more stable OC.
That graphics card driver have been known to cause issues. Use 314.22.
If you have a 7xx-series card, this thread might help you.
http://pcabusers.org/forums/showthread.php?p=335463
not overclocking but I will try that driver. thanks!
smokeandmirrors
Banned
But I can't log in because it says "Your PC is offline. Please sign in with the last password used on the PC". But I can't because the password to log into the PC won't work because it's offline.
Is there any way to fix this or is it another fun "quirk" of Windows 8? and if it's the latter
WHY THE FUCK DID THEY THINK THIS WAS A FUCKING GOOD IDEA JESUS CHRIST MICROSOFT.
Got it fixed but I had to connect via ethernet instead and go through the process of resetting the password because apparently each password entry whilst it was offline counted as an incorrect entry? Oh well.
Okay, I just refreshed my Windows 8 PC, but before I did that, I discovered a cool feature where I could share the audio from a Bluetooth-enabled device with the PC. When connecting a device, a shortcut would automatically be added to my metro desktop and when connecting, a settings window would pop up where I was giving two options:
1: Connect this device's music/media
2: Control this device with your keyboard and mouse
Since refreshing, I haven't been able to find those settings. I'm not even aware if there was some Bluetooth-related program that allowed for this features, but Google-searching is showing up nothing but "How to connect a Bluetooth device" or "How to use your Windows Bluetooth device to connect to your Android." Pretty unhelpful.
Does anyone here have any clue about what it was that allowed me to connect my Android's audio through my computer? It was helpful as heck because I could study while having music run from my tablet without needing a separate program open on my PC. Plus, there was a small window that would pop up on my PC that would allow me to control the audio coming from the Bluetooth device.
[edit]
Okay, getting closer but not quite finding it yet. I found a video that shows the menu screen I'm looking for, but it isn't very helpful with telling me how to get there.
[edit 2]
All right, I found a website mentioning the how-to process. The problem is that I don't have these settings suddenly and it doesn't mention anywhere how you activate/update to them. I really have no clue how I even got these settings to pop up to begin with.
[edit 3]
My Bluetooth is made my Broadcom, so I checked out their driver-update program and it notifies me that it doesn't support my PC (Lifebook T902). I'm pretty sure I re-installed all Fujitsu drivers after the refresh including all windows updates. I'll recheck to be sure.
[edit 4]
Success! It was actually a Fujitsu driver. I apparently skipped over it, but now after entering into the device manager menu, double-clicking on a device will prompt that menu I mentioned earlier, allowing me to connect to the device and stream the audio through my PC.
Uh...thanks? lol
1: Connect this device's music/media
2: Control this device with your keyboard and mouse
Since refreshing, I haven't been able to find those settings. I'm not even aware if there was some Bluetooth-related program that allowed for this features, but Google-searching is showing up nothing but "How to connect a Bluetooth device" or "How to use your Windows Bluetooth device to connect to your Android." Pretty unhelpful.
Does anyone here have any clue about what it was that allowed me to connect my Android's audio through my computer? It was helpful as heck because I could study while having music run from my tablet without needing a separate program open on my PC. Plus, there was a small window that would pop up on my PC that would allow me to control the audio coming from the Bluetooth device.
[edit]
Okay, getting closer but not quite finding it yet. I found a video that shows the menu screen I'm looking for, but it isn't very helpful with telling me how to get there.
[edit 2]
All right, I found a website mentioning the how-to process. The problem is that I don't have these settings suddenly and it doesn't mention anywhere how you activate/update to them. I really have no clue how I even got these settings to pop up to begin with.
[edit 3]
My Bluetooth is made my Broadcom, so I checked out their driver-update program and it notifies me that it doesn't support my PC (Lifebook T902). I'm pretty sure I re-installed all Fujitsu drivers after the refresh including all windows updates. I'll recheck to be sure.
[edit 4]
Success! It was actually a Fujitsu driver. I apparently skipped over it, but now after entering into the device manager menu, double-clicking on a device will prompt that menu I mentioned earlier, allowing me to connect to the device and stream the audio through my PC.
Uh...thanks? lol
Casanova
Member
Thanks for the help, kennah.
I believe I have found a compatible card that may be more feasible alternative for me, due to my current financial situation. If you (or someone else) could check to see if it is, in fact, a compatible upgrade, that would be great.
Here it is.
My "maximum bus setting" is PCI Express 2.0x16, according to the AMD Catalyst Control Center, so I searched for an upgrade based on those stipulations.
My computer specs, again, if anyone needs them:
Machine name: USER-6E7D75B11B
Operating System: Windows XP Professional (5.1, Build 2600) Service Pack 3 (2600.xpsp_sp3_qfe.101209-1646)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: HP-Pavilion
System Model: GS354AA-ABA a6203w
BIOS: Phoenix - AwardBIOS v6.00PG
Processor: AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 4400+, MMX, 3DNow (2 CPUs), ~2.3GHz
Memory: 3070MB RAM
Page File: 832MB used, 3421MB available
Windows Dir: C:\WINDOWS
DirectX Version: DirectX 9.0c (4.09.0000.0904)
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
DxDiag Version: 5.03.2600.5512 32bit Unicode
Thanks again, GAF.
EDIT: If you could also give me a general estimate at the improvements I might see with this upgrade, that would be more than appreciated. I currently have a ATI Radeon HD 5450 PCI Express 2.0x16 1024MB DDR3
Horse Detective
Why the long case?
Hey guys, I am obviously searching for a fix for this on google, but I thought I would post it here at the chance that someone has an easy fix.
Very often, my computer crashes with the new blue screen and says"DRVR_IRQL_NOT_LESS_THAN_OR_EQL(e22w8x64.sys)"
I have Windows 8. Thanks guys.
Very often, my computer crashes with the new blue screen and says"DRVR_IRQL_NOT_LESS_THAN_OR_EQL(e22w8x64.sys)"
I have Windows 8. Thanks guys.
http://service.msicomputer.com/msi_user/TechFAQdetail.aspx?formid=3054
It's related to some network driver service. disabling this service should help.
Horse Detective
Why the long case?
Thanks. Apparently the startup app was already disabled by me. I "stopped" the part in services. "Stop" doesn't sound permanent though.
You could always do a reboot to see if its indeed disabled.
I would otherwise recommend going through services.msc and disable it all together.
Windows key + R and type in "services.msc" without "", find the service. It'll probably be under Qualcomm, Atheros or Killer. Double Click and in the drop down menu labeled "startup type", set it to disabled.
http://www.eightforums.com/tutorials/12411-services-start-stop-disable-windows-8-a.html
See the link for more information
Horse Detective
Why the long case?
You could always do a reboot to see if its indeed disabled.
I would otherwise recommend going through services.msc and disable it all together.
Windows key + R and type in "services.msc" without "", find the service. It'll probably be under Qualcomm, Atheros or Killer. Double Click and in the drop down menu labeled "startup type", set it to disabled.
http://www.eightforums.com/tutorials/12411-services-start-stop-disable-windows-8-a.html
See the link for more information
Oh wow, thank you.
I need to get my googling skills up. I was under the impression that this was a driver issue from what my results yielded.
LaserBuddha
Member
Alright you mighty wizards, I need a little guidance for something I'm about to do.
It seems like I have a failing hard drive in my Dell Studio XPS 7100. I've been having random hard lockups that happen only a few minutes after booting up. This has even happened in safe mode occasionally, and during a system repair outside of windows. I have already done a full wipe/restore with recovery media (that probably didn't nuke the drive entirely properly) and replaced the power supply. This resolved the issue for a few days and now it's back.
What I've managed to get is a factory image on USB created in the Dell Datasafe application (having used the recovery partition last time). This should allow me to get win7 and my drivers installed on a new drive that has no recovery partition.
I was thinking of using this opportunity to upgrade to an SSD, and that's where I need your help. How is it that I'm going to put in this SSD and recover my factory image from USB? I don't know if the image will work properly on an SSD, and I really don't even know how you set up the SSD outside of Windows vs an HDD.
Bonus round: I was thinking of perhaps moving to Windows 8, particularly if I'm going to need a fresh copy of Windows to make this work. The only driver for my PC from Dell other than things like Radeon drivers is the one for the wireless card, and it only has a Windows 7 driver. Should these drivers usually work fine in Windows 8?
It seems like I have a failing hard drive in my Dell Studio XPS 7100. I've been having random hard lockups that happen only a few minutes after booting up. This has even happened in safe mode occasionally, and during a system repair outside of windows. I have already done a full wipe/restore with recovery media (that probably didn't nuke the drive entirely properly) and replaced the power supply. This resolved the issue for a few days and now it's back.
What I've managed to get is a factory image on USB created in the Dell Datasafe application (having used the recovery partition last time). This should allow me to get win7 and my drivers installed on a new drive that has no recovery partition.
I was thinking of using this opportunity to upgrade to an SSD, and that's where I need your help. How is it that I'm going to put in this SSD and recover my factory image from USB? I don't know if the image will work properly on an SSD, and I really don't even know how you set up the SSD outside of Windows vs an HDD.
Bonus round: I was thinking of perhaps moving to Windows 8, particularly if I'm going to need a fresh copy of Windows to make this work. The only driver for my PC from Dell other than things like Radeon drivers is the one for the wireless card, and it only has a Windows 7 driver. Should these drivers usually work fine in Windows 8?
Phoenician_Viking
Banned
My internet connection on my laptop is barely working. I am not sure why. It started happening 2 days ago, and there´s no issue with the connection on my Ipad. I restored my laptop to the 18th of this month and it´s still slow or barely working. It keeps telling me that "This webpage is not available" I tried both Chrome and Firefox. What could be the problem?
LaserBuddha
Member
I am going to ask a more direct question:
If I swap out my HDD for an SSD, then boot to a flash drive to do a factory image restore with Dell media, is there anything in that process that needs to be done differently for an SSD? Could it get screwed up by the recovery program trying to treat the SSD like a HDD in some way?
The only thing I know about having an SSD is that you shouldn't defrag it.
If I swap out my HDD for an SSD, then boot to a flash drive to do a factory image restore with Dell media, is there anything in that process that needs to be done differently for an SSD? Could it get screwed up by the recovery program trying to treat the SSD like a HDD in some way?
The only thing I know about having an SSD is that you shouldn't defrag it.
Sorry man, I stand by what I said earlier. You'll see some minor improvements from that card, but the 6670 isn't a gaming card either. It is probably the best thing that would work in your current computer, but.. yeah. Good luck I guess.
You'll be fine.
Joel Was Right
Member
I cannot access this website. I'm subscribed to it's podcasts, which require a username/password as its behind a paywall. I recently downloaded Instacast, and it needed the login details. I guess I entered them incorrectly because straight after that, I wasn't able to access the site and haven't been able to since.
I get this screen.
I cannot automatically download my podcasts via iTunes either. What has caused this and can you suggest a solution?
I get this screen.
I cannot automatically download my podcasts via iTunes either. What has caused this and can you suggest a solution?
Hi guys.
So yeah, I have a bit of a problem in terms of my PS3 and resolution/image size. I play it on a 40" Samsung TV, games and home screen etc. is fine, but blu rays seem to not size correctly, seemingly stuck in 4:3, and does not fully stretch when I messed with the settings - specifically Family Guy: Something Something Dark Side.
Now I haven't tried it with other blu rays or normal DVDs, mainly because I'm not entirely fussed, and I don't have a very large collection. Though it is a small irritation - Would this be the consoles fault or not setting the TV correctly? I would assume the playback as the main menu to the blu ray worked fine and stretched to the edges of the screen is the issue.
Any help would be fantastic, cheers.
So yeah, I have a bit of a problem in terms of my PS3 and resolution/image size. I play it on a 40" Samsung TV, games and home screen etc. is fine, but blu rays seem to not size correctly, seemingly stuck in 4:3, and does not fully stretch when I messed with the settings - specifically Family Guy: Something Something Dark Side.
Now I haven't tried it with other blu rays or normal DVDs, mainly because I'm not entirely fussed, and I don't have a very large collection. Though it is a small irritation - Would this be the consoles fault or not setting the TV correctly? I would assume the playback as the main menu to the blu ray worked fine and stretched to the edges of the screen is the issue.
Any help would be fantastic, cheers.
Patrick Bateman
Member
I will start uni in two weeks and thought about buying a laptop instead of taking my Mac into the dorm. I thought that most stuff probably runs on windows and I want to buy a Thinkpad-laptop.
But now I wonder how I can get my data from the Mac on the Windows-laptop in the most easiest way.
But now I wonder how I can get my data from the Mac on the Windows-laptop in the most easiest way.
What kind of data?
Patrick Bateman
Member
Docs, mp3 etc.
Patrick Bateman
Member
Probably the easiest way. Thank you!
Horse Detective
Why the long case?
Am I pretty much fucked if I want to view Blu Rays without Cyberlink?
Little Old Man
Member
Need your help tech gaf. Essentially I'm all but certain my PSU has had it, but I'm wondering if there is anyway to check this, and/or if something else might be at fault.
Symptoms: every time I turn on my desktop, the system will take several attempts to boot up. In the cases where it fails to boot, the system can run for anything from a couple of seconds, all the way to half a minute before powering down and trying again. Sometimes it will boot second go around, others towards ten. In every case there is no image sent to my screen. Also at least one fan in the case doesn't sound right- too loud or two quiet I can't tell for sure.
Funny thing is that once it has booted, the system is fine. I've changed over my GPU to no effect, so no issue there.
Symptoms: every time I turn on my desktop, the system will take several attempts to boot up. In the cases where it fails to boot, the system can run for anything from a couple of seconds, all the way to half a minute before powering down and trying again. Sometimes it will boot second go around, others towards ten. In every case there is no image sent to my screen. Also at least one fan in the case doesn't sound right- too loud or two quiet I can't tell for sure.
Funny thing is that once it has booted, the system is fine. I've changed over my GPU to no effect, so no issue there.
You could use MakeMKV to rip the main title to your hard drive and then play the file with whatever MKV-compatible player you want.
By the way, to maintain Blu-ray ripping functionality, you might need to enter the monthly beta key found here: http://www.makemkv.com/forum2/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1053
What motherboard do you have? I think there were some boards/chipsets plagued by cold boot loop bugs like what you are experiencing.
Little Old Man
Member
Gigabyte ep45-ds3p.
I've just tried swapping out ram sticks (I have 4x1gb ddr2 sticks), and it seemed to work, then when I switched back up to four it failed again, Will try this again tomorrow to see if I can determine if one or more sticks are buggered.
You can try PotPlayer http://www.videohelp.com/tools/PotPlayer
It's free
If you can try first with another PSU, a cheap or borrowed will do the job.
ZachDeKoromaru
Banned
So my laptop (running Windows 7 if that helps at all) since about a week ago has been running at extremely slow rates when it had previously ran just fine. It takes forever to start up and when I'm on things will freeze often and just as previously said, run incredibly slowly. I had removed a trojan which I thought would resolve the problem but it's still like this.
Any known solutions for this, or perhaps it's a hardware problem I'm having?
Any known solutions for this, or perhaps it's a hardware problem I'm having?
Jzero
Member
Clean your temporary files and such with Ccleaner and then run a virus scan again with Malwarebytes.
Also, check your start up programs and disable some that you don't need that urgently.