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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
AlteredBeast
Fork 'em, Sparky!
Basically what I ended up doing.
Other question: If I have a Dynamic IP from my ISP, is there a way I can know what my home IP address is at any time (away from home) so that I can use my wake on lan feature? Otherwise, everytime it changes, I would have no way of doing it, right?
Elsewise, how would I accomplish this!
AngryChinchilla
Member
I've got an issue that I need some help with. My dad just got a 660ti 3GB for a build he is doing. In the mean time, he is letting me test it out to make sure it works well, so I have been putting it through its paces. I am having a very annoying issue with the multiple monitor support, though. I set it up on my 3 identical 23" monitors (dvi, dvi, hdmi) and set up the surround through the driver control center (5760x1080). It works like a charm. Games run great and everything, but it disables itself every time that the monitors get put to sleep. If put the computer to sleep and wake it up, Windows make the noise when it finds a new device, it is black for a few seconds and when it comes up, only the middle monitor is on and the other two go to standby. My Windows screen resolution pain looks like this:
At this point the nvidia control panel won't re-enable the surround until I use the Windows screen resolution to re-enable the other two monitors individually. This happens 100% of the time when either my computer goes to sleep, or the monitors sleep from inactivity. It is driving my nuts.
At this point the nvidia control panel won't re-enable the surround until I use the Windows screen resolution to re-enable the other two monitors individually. This happens 100% of the time when either my computer goes to sleep, or the monitors sleep from inactivity. It is driving my nuts.
Hey guys I have an odd issue. The available space on my c drive seems to be just disappearing. I did disk cleanup a few days ago after the update and was at 12gb free. Left my computer on and haven't used it in 4 days. I come back to it and it's at 9.5gb and I literally saw it go down to 9.2 while I wasn't touching anything.
What's going on?
What's going on?
If you're on Windows 7, check if you have Security Update for Windows 7 (KB2859537) installed. If you do uninstall it and see if your problem disappear.
What operating system are you using?
Well it's happening on both my OSX and Windows 7, but I am specifically talking about W7 right now. I thought it might be Chrome (the cause of the problem on OSX) but I closed Chrome and nothing happened.
That's a pretty large laptop. I use this one for my 17.3 inch laptop, but I imagine it should be to problematic to use on yours. It's stable enough that I think you won't have issues. Also, you can adjust the position of the fans to align to wherever you find your laptop producing heat the most.
I've never used OSX so I'm not sure what the problem might be. On Windows 7 try these options, maybe it'll help you.
1. Go to C:\Windows\SoftwareDistribution\Download, select all the files shift+delete and remove all of them
2. Download CCleaner it might delete some unnecessary stuff and free your space
3. Use SpaceSniffer to see what files take so much space
4. Check this website, it might fix your problem. http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorial...-usage.html?filter[2]=Performance Maintenance
5. Do a full scan of your computer with your antivirus and Malwarebytes
Hey Pc gaf, quick question before i press the purchase button, I have this ram in my pc already. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145250
I just want to make sure if I buy this ram to fill my other 3 slots there won't be a compatibility problem. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...20131013144751
This is my mobo if it helps, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131365
I just want to make sure if I buy this ram to fill my other 3 slots there won't be a compatibility problem. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...20131013144751
This is my mobo if it helps, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131365
The Driver
Member
Hey y'all I'm at the end of my rope here.
About two days ago I turned my crummy college laptop on that's served me well for the past few years. It was in the process of turning on when I shut it off because it sounded like something was caught in the fan. Turn it back on and no noise but I come to the problem I'm currently having.
1.) Upon boot I get the Windows Recovery or start up normally options. Start up normally is a dead end, my PC tried and then circles back to the same menu after loading the "Starting Windows" screen.
2.) Okay now to try the recovery options. I try the start up repair. This too fails. Saying something along the lines of Windows could not repair automatically. I check the diagnostic log and I get 1 root cause of there being NO clear root cause with error 0x0 popping up SEVERAL times throughout the logs tests. I've ran the system repair about 17 times at this point (I know).
3.) next option, System Restore. I try this and have several restore points, the furthest being all the way on October 4th. Still none of these work, as it goes through the process of system restore only to fail after finalizing and I get error 0x800700b7. I too have tried to restore several times.
4.) next I try the memory check, upon doing this no errors come up in the initial check from what I can remember and it does nothing I fix the issue.
5.) at this point I jump online and try a bunch of different things.
A.) I try the sfc/ scannow in the command prompt but this fails as I get an error saying I have a system repair pending or some chit and I need to restart to try it again. Of course upon restarting it still does not allow the scan to run.
B.) I try locating the system registry files and repairing them manually using the command prompt as well. This involves copying the older registry files before my computer locked up on me. This seemed to give me no errors, but to be honest I don't know if I completed it correctly as the last step is to just copy the old registry files. Don't know if I was supposed to replace them or what. Anyway I restart and this didn't do anything to fix the issue either.
At this point I have no clue what it is. The error seems fairly common but nothing has worked so far. It could be my antivirus, I have avast (it's never ever really done anything though) blocking me from messing around with the updates but I can't get in and disable it as Safemode also just loops back to the system repair menu like starting normally does. All I can access is the five recovery options basically Start Up Repair (fail), System Restore (fail), System Image Restore (more on that in a bit), Memory Check (not a fail but no help seemingly), and the Command Prompt (all commands have failed so far?).
At this point I'm thinking I'm thinking some boot up file is corrupted and I'm gonna need a system recovery disk to boot from and repair my OS (Windows 7). I didn't really want to go down this road as I'm a broke college kid , not wanting to waste money on something that could fail as well and the shadier options of acquiring said recovery disc always make me uncomfortable about viruses and what not. It's $40 bucks, it's not really that bad, but if one of y'all can offer your opinion on if you think this will actually work given my circumstances or have another method for me to try I am all ears.
I'm really desperate at this point as I don't want some tech guy to wipe my computer for a $100+ or me have to do it myself. I don't have super important docs or anything but I have tons of pictures and music from over the years that mean a lot to me, that I really don't want to lose on on top of all the given college work I have to do. Again any suggestions are welcome. Sorry for any incoherence btw as I'm typing this on my phone after doing all of the above so I'm a bit worn out.
About two days ago I turned my crummy college laptop on that's served me well for the past few years. It was in the process of turning on when I shut it off because it sounded like something was caught in the fan. Turn it back on and no noise but I come to the problem I'm currently having.
1.) Upon boot I get the Windows Recovery or start up normally options. Start up normally is a dead end, my PC tried and then circles back to the same menu after loading the "Starting Windows" screen.
2.) Okay now to try the recovery options. I try the start up repair. This too fails. Saying something along the lines of Windows could not repair automatically. I check the diagnostic log and I get 1 root cause of there being NO clear root cause with error 0x0 popping up SEVERAL times throughout the logs tests. I've ran the system repair about 17 times at this point (I know).
3.) next option, System Restore. I try this and have several restore points, the furthest being all the way on October 4th. Still none of these work, as it goes through the process of system restore only to fail after finalizing and I get error 0x800700b7. I too have tried to restore several times.
4.) next I try the memory check, upon doing this no errors come up in the initial check from what I can remember and it does nothing I fix the issue.
5.) at this point I jump online and try a bunch of different things.
A.) I try the sfc/ scannow in the command prompt but this fails as I get an error saying I have a system repair pending or some chit and I need to restart to try it again. Of course upon restarting it still does not allow the scan to run.
B.) I try locating the system registry files and repairing them manually using the command prompt as well. This involves copying the older registry files before my computer locked up on me. This seemed to give me no errors, but to be honest I don't know if I completed it correctly as the last step is to just copy the old registry files. Don't know if I was supposed to replace them or what. Anyway I restart and this didn't do anything to fix the issue either.
At this point I have no clue what it is. The error seems fairly common but nothing has worked so far. It could be my antivirus, I have avast (it's never ever really done anything though) blocking me from messing around with the updates but I can't get in and disable it as Safemode also just loops back to the system repair menu like starting normally does. All I can access is the five recovery options basically Start Up Repair (fail), System Restore (fail), System Image Restore (more on that in a bit), Memory Check (not a fail but no help seemingly), and the Command Prompt (all commands have failed so far?).
At this point I'm thinking I'm thinking some boot up file is corrupted and I'm gonna need a system recovery disk to boot from and repair my OS (Windows 7). I didn't really want to go down this road as I'm a broke college kid , not wanting to waste money on something that could fail as well and the shadier options of acquiring said recovery disc always make me uncomfortable about viruses and what not. It's $40 bucks, it's not really that bad, but if one of y'all can offer your opinion on if you think this will actually work given my circumstances or have another method for me to try I am all ears.
I'm really desperate at this point as I don't want some tech guy to wipe my computer for a $100+ or me have to do it myself. I don't have super important docs or anything but I have tons of pictures and music from over the years that mean a lot to me, that I really don't want to lose on on top of all the given college work I have to do. Again any suggestions are welcome. Sorry for any incoherence btw as I'm typing this on my phone after doing all of the above so I'm a bit worn out.
ambientmystic
Member
There's always the nuclear option to consider. This is however dependant on your answer to the following questions:-
Do you have an a spare external HDD to backup your vital documents, pictures, etc to, and a spare working PC you can borrow to do it on?
Do you still have your Windows sticker at the bottom of your laptop with the Product ID information clearly legible?
Do you have a spare USB thumbdrive that is at least 4GB large?
If your answer is yes to all questions, you can then proceed with the nuclear option, which involves wiping and reinstalling Windows from scratch.
Procedure:-
0. Whatever you do, make sure you backup everything you want to the external drive beforehand. Also write down the Product ID from the sticker at the bottom of your laptop.
1. The installation media (I'm assuming you're on Windows 7) can be obtained legitimately and for no cost from MS's DigitalRiver distribution system here. Just choose the correct version that came preinstalled with your system when you bought it, you'll have to activate it later on anyway.
2. You'll need a spare working PC to make the media from the iso file you've downloaded using this Microsoft Windows 7 Download Tool on your thumbdrive.
3. Once you've made the installation media on your thumbdrive, boot up your laptop from the thumbdrive and wipe away the previous installation, and install Windows. Should take between 20 - 40 minutes depending on your specs.
4. Once installation is done, activate Windows using the Product ID you've noted down earlier on. Phone activation can also be used if it refuses to play ball.
5. Restore your documents etc.
If you had everything I asked of you earlier on, you shouldn't have to pay a dime for the procedure.
The Driver
Member
That sounds pretty good, I'm about to show my ignorance though so I have to ask, how do I get the files off my computer if I can't access anything past the repair menu? Unless there is some kind of command prompt.
It looks like the only way to do that is if you physically remove the HDD and put it in a external enclosure HD or connect it via USB. I could probably do it but that's starting to get into the "I might as well pay someone to do this" territory considering the time I'll need and likelyhood ill mess something up lol.
The only other option that is preferable is the boot from CD one but I'm kinda confused on that, the boot CD wouldn't be the same as the iOS cd I'll be creating would it? It's kind of like a temporary shell instead? What program would I use for that? Sorry for all the questions and thanks for the help!
It looks like the only way to do that is if you physically remove the HDD and put it in a external enclosure HD or connect it via USB. I could probably do it but that's starting to get into the "I might as well pay someone to do this" territory considering the time I'll need and likelyhood ill mess something up lol.
The only other option that is preferable is the boot from CD one but I'm kinda confused on that, the boot CD wouldn't be the same as the iOS cd I'll be creating would it? It's kind of like a temporary shell instead? What program would I use for that? Sorry for all the questions and thanks for the help!
The Driver
Member
Hmm. I'm assuming though that if it is the hard drive that's gonna throw a wrench into the process, having to buy a new drive and all. Anyway to test if the thing actually works before I remove it?
Hey guys I have a question for you.
We're using a web server at work to host files that are then downloaded by a "device" (I can't say what exactly because of NDA but let's just say that that device can only download a file from a http link).
I can download the files just fine but for a reason out of my control the files that are downloaded have very long filename and I can't change it. It's really a pain to input that long name everytime on the "device" (lol).
This is server that is setup by the IT departement so I don't really have any controls over it. All I can do is drop the file in a shared drive.
Is there anyway to make some kind of shortcut so that I could point the device to that shortcut (that happens to have a very short filename of course) and it would "trick" it into downloading the long filename file?
I used to host the files on my PC and I was using HFS which was great and was letting me rename the files (without actually renaming the file on the HDD) but now that's it's hosted by IT I lost that feature.
We're using a web server at work to host files that are then downloaded by a "device" (I can't say what exactly because of NDA but let's just say that that device can only download a file from a http link).
I can download the files just fine but for a reason out of my control the files that are downloaded have very long filename and I can't change it. It's really a pain to input that long name everytime on the "device" (lol).
This is server that is setup by the IT departement so I don't really have any controls over it. All I can do is drop the file in a shared drive.
Is there anyway to make some kind of shortcut so that I could point the device to that shortcut (that happens to have a very short filename of course) and it would "trick" it into downloading the long filename file?
I used to host the files on my PC and I was using HFS which was great and was letting me rename the files (without actually renaming the file on the HDD) but now that's it's hosted by IT I lost that feature.
encephalon
Member
Hey, I have a question (Win 7).
I went to uninstall a program - Real Player (lol) and noticed there was no uninstall. So I went to my list of programs and started up the "Change/Uninstall" dialogue, clicking yes. No uninstall thing came up, it just deleted it from the list of my programs and left the program on the hard disc. It's sitting in program files and works just fine. I'm guessing this happened because I stupidly forgot to close my browser (which has a plug in ... so I can download youtube videos, which is why I installed it in the first place). Or maybe, given the lack of uninstall, Real Player is just evil.
What should I do? Just delete what I can find in program files and appdata (the only places I know where to look ...) and be done with it?
I went to uninstall a program - Real Player (lol) and noticed there was no uninstall. So I went to my list of programs and started up the "Change/Uninstall" dialogue, clicking yes. No uninstall thing came up, it just deleted it from the list of my programs and left the program on the hard disc. It's sitting in program files and works just fine. I'm guessing this happened because I stupidly forgot to close my browser (which has a plug in ... so I can download youtube videos, which is why I installed it in the first place). Or maybe, given the lack of uninstall, Real Player is just evil.
What should I do? Just delete what I can find in program files and appdata (the only places I know where to look ...) and be done with it?
Just set it to boot to desktop and it's pretty similar, just faster.
The Driver
Member
Alright y'all, after much consideration I caved and took the laptop to some tech guys I know. They claim it's the hard drive crapping out. At this point I figured as much so no surprise, it's getting replaced now.
The thing I'm confused on is data recovery. I made it clear to the guy that I didn't want to lose my data if possible on the old drive. Now you guys mentioned that I can just buy a USB cable/enclosure/whatever and plug the sucker in as essentially a big ugly external drive.
I'm hearing other things though about slaving the hard drive instead. This doesn't sound too difficult but I'd obviously prefer to just be lazy and drag and drop files instead of messing with bios and other recovery programs and all that chit, provided the old drive isn't completely dead that is.
Is their really a difference between the two processes other than the slave drive basically becoming a secondary drive? I don't really care for that, I just want my data back lul.
The thing I'm confused on is data recovery. I made it clear to the guy that I didn't want to lose my data if possible on the old drive. Now you guys mentioned that I can just buy a USB cable/enclosure/whatever and plug the sucker in as essentially a big ugly external drive.
I'm hearing other things though about slaving the hard drive instead. This doesn't sound too difficult but I'd obviously prefer to just be lazy and drag and drop files instead of messing with bios and other recovery programs and all that chit, provided the old drive isn't completely dead that is.
Is their really a difference between the two processes other than the slave drive basically becoming a secondary drive? I don't really care for that, I just want my data back lul.
I got a GTX 760 and did a three monitor setup recently. I am running the Nvidia 327.23 drivers (and have tried the latest beta drivers) and every time I run a game, after some seconds or a minute, my monitors will show solid colors and my computer will reboot. I previously had an Nvidia 260 (can't remember what drivers I was on at the time) and never had crashes like this. I'm using Windows 8 (now 8.1).
I have a 650W PSU so I don't think that is the problem. I have tried to search and see that a lot of people are having issues with drivers, but I don't know how to test if it is a driver issue or if my card is bad.
I have had a couple "Graphics driver crashed and was recovered successfully" errors, but basically everything works fine when I'm just browsing the web and such.
Any ideas or similar experiences?
I have a 650W PSU so I don't think that is the problem. I have tried to search and see that a lot of people are having issues with drivers, but I don't know how to test if it is a driver issue or if my card is bad.
I have had a couple "Graphics driver crashed and was recovered successfully" errors, but basically everything works fine when I'm just browsing the web and such.
Any ideas or similar experiences?
uncleniccius
Member
Hey guys,
So yesterday I installed Windows 8,and it was working fine until it booted after the install, my laptop now won't load properly, and when I turn it on the Samsung symbol comes up (as it is a Samsung laptop) but after that the screen goes black.
The only thing that has a reaction is wiggling the mouse, it leads to the mouse icon appearing with the loading circle, but nothing happens.. I can't do anything, so is there any way to reset it or something, I'll be phoning ms when their customer service opens tomorrow, but I thought I'd ask here as you guys are usually helpful.
Thanks.
So yesterday I installed Windows 8,and it was working fine until it booted after the install, my laptop now won't load properly, and when I turn it on the Samsung symbol comes up (as it is a Samsung laptop) but after that the screen goes black.
The only thing that has a reaction is wiggling the mouse, it leads to the mouse icon appearing with the loading circle, but nothing happens.. I can't do anything, so is there any way to reset it or something, I'll be phoning ms when their customer service opens tomorrow, but I thought I'd ask here as you guys are usually helpful.
Thanks.
FUBAR McDangles
Member
Hey, all. So I have a printer(HP Photosmart C5180) that I have been having issues with.
So when I hit the power button to turn it off after printing something, usually it is "on" for ~30 seconds to a minute or so and is doing stuff. Not really sure what it does, but it sounds like it is re-aligning everything and making sure everything is in proper position before completely shutting down.
Well, me being an idiot, I unplugged it the other week while it was doing this cool-down cycle thing. Since, we haven't been able to print anything. We've been getting error reports, mainly mis-alignment alerts, whenever we try to print anything.
Is there anything I can do to fix this? Or am I screwed?
Thanks for the help!
So when I hit the power button to turn it off after printing something, usually it is "on" for ~30 seconds to a minute or so and is doing stuff. Not really sure what it does, but it sounds like it is re-aligning everything and making sure everything is in proper position before completely shutting down.
Well, me being an idiot, I unplugged it the other week while it was doing this cool-down cycle thing. Since, we haven't been able to print anything. We've been getting error reports, mainly mis-alignment alerts, whenever we try to print anything.
Is there anything I can do to fix this? Or am I screwed?
Thanks for the help!
I found a setting in my BIOS under the AHCI settings (enabled because I use a SSD as my c:, all my other drive are regular mechanical drives), and after enabling it now all mechanical drives have to "spin up" to be accessed instead of always being instantly accessible.
So my question is, should I leave this enabled? On the plus, it does reduce my power consumption over time, and since i leave this machine on 24/7 that may be a good thing.
However I am worried that constant spin-up/spin-down will produce extra wear on the drives and I could see more frequent drive failures.
What is your advice GAF? Should I disable the setting or not? I have an x58 mobo and I believe the setting was called "stagger spinup support" or somesuch
So my question is, should I leave this enabled? On the plus, it does reduce my power consumption over time, and since i leave this machine on 24/7 that may be a good thing.
However I am worried that constant spin-up/spin-down will produce extra wear on the drives and I could see more frequent drive failures.
What is your advice GAF? Should I disable the setting or not? I have an x58 mobo and I believe the setting was called "stagger spinup support" or somesuch
Use your W8 install iso to run the Windows install repair tool and see if it can fix the problem.
Go to the power options menu, the advanced settings for you power plan, navigate through the hard disk tree and tell it to never turn them off.
Thanks T__T Forgot about this setting!! This is a clean install, no wonder. I had previously set it to 'never'
Have you tried to force it to realign again? If I'm not mistaken you can do this with the HP software (printer settings/toolbox or something).
Switch it on, realign, print something to test.
uncleniccius
Member
I had to use recovery in the end, how would I have done what you advised?
FUBAR McDangles
Member
On the printer we've gone into "settings" and tried to realign it that way, but it still is a bit iffy on printing. It either prints really faintly/crookedly/whatever or doesn't at all and we get an error message.
It is extremely disappointing.
Allforce
Member
I've got a (probably stupid) question. I recently got a laptop, the resolution is something like 1368x768 which is pretty standard I'm assuming.
It has an HDMI out, if I use that output to a 1980x1080 monitor can I have the laptop output in that resolution? How do I do this? Is it as simple as changing the resolution on the laptop settings because it only goes up to the 1368x768 setting.
It has an HDMI out, if I use that output to a 1980x1080 monitor can I have the laptop output in that resolution? How do I do this? Is it as simple as changing the resolution on the laptop settings because it only goes up to the 1368x768 setting.
You're laptop will unlikely support two drives anyhow so the easiest way to set this up is buying an enclosure.
Well, you could always unplug whatever optical drive's in there and replace it with the hard drive, but i'm gonna assume this is something beyond your expertise?
Having two slots for hard drives plus an optical drive is highly unlikely on most laptops.
Depending on what brand it is it's gonna be a PITA taking apart anyhow (unless you're running something like a Clevo/Alienware).
I'd go with a simple usb enclosure just so you can backup all your important files.
It might be driver related. Nvidia just released a new driver that may or may not be buggy. Try it out.
People have said to stick with 314.22 though but it doesn't officially support GTX 760 iirc.
This link should be able to help you if you decide you want to run the older one instead.
http://pcabusers.org/forums/showthread.php?p=335463
Otherwise, try the new one. You can get it here:
http://www.geforce.com/drivers
Connect the monitor which supports that resolution and turn it on. Find the Screen Resolution setting (right-click on desktop) and you should see your secondary monitor pop up there. You should be able to change the resolution there. You can't run anything higher than 1366x768 on your laptop screen though, if that's what you're asking (unless its rated higher, which i doubt).
pikachu Lv 5
Member
Here is one I consulted uncle Google about but couldn't get an answer to.
Whenever I try to turn on my computer, it takes 2 attempts before anything shows up. The fans turn on but nothing functions. I have to hold the power button and turn it off, turn it on again and usually the second try gets it going, sometimes more than 2 tries are needed. I don't have any error messages on start-up, it just turns on like it normally would. I put my PC together and swear on something holy that I followed every instruction given to me very closely. It's not really that big of a deal to me but it just bugs me that I don't know what is causing it.
Whenever I try to turn on my computer, it takes 2 attempts before anything shows up. The fans turn on but nothing functions. I have to hold the power button and turn it off, turn it on again and usually the second try gets it going, sometimes more than 2 tries are needed. I don't have any error messages on start-up, it just turns on like it normally would. I put my PC together and swear on something holy that I followed every instruction given to me very closely. It's not really that big of a deal to me but it just bugs me that I don't know what is causing it.
Yeah I saw that posted in another thread, thanks for the heads up!
Really itching to get home and try the new drivers out, especially since I got Bioshock Infinity for $9.99 last night and kinda want to actually play it.
Have you tried wiping out your POST settings? That or replacing the motherboard battery.
Its possible this has nothing to do with it, but I've seen something similar that was fixed by replacing that battery.
Have you tried doing it on your pc/mac instead of on the printer itself (see if you can find some realign options in the setup)? Maybe replace the cartridges if you have some spare ones lying around and then realign it.
Don't really know what else to try after this. Printers are the most horrible things to get working again once they break. Is it still under warranty?
iJudged
Banned
Let me try here since the laptop forums seem to be very quiet.
Buying a laptop, specs...need quick input
17in
Intel Core i5 2nd gen (quad? ) running at 2.67ghz
6GB Ram
500gb HD
ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5850
How good is it for gaming, will it handle some of the newer games?
This laptop is $400, my budget is around $500.
Can I find something better or is this as good as it gets for this price? Any suggestions? Thnx much
Buying a laptop, specs...need quick input
17in
Intel Core i5 2nd gen (quad? ) running at 2.67ghz
6GB Ram
500gb HD
ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5850
How good is it for gaming, will it handle some of the newer games?
This laptop is $400, my budget is around $500.
Can I find something better or is this as good as it gets for this price? Any suggestions? Thnx much
I want to buy a monitor to hook up to my laptop. Ebay is having some kind of sale on these two refurbished Samsung monitors. Can somebody explain why the slightly smaller one is so much cheaper? I don't really understand what all of the specs mean. Is one of them a lot better image quality? It's between this one and this one.
I split my Fusion drive on my iMac with this guide:
http://www.macworld.com/article/2015664/how-to-split-up-a-fusion-drive.html
I'm considering exchanging it for a new MacBook Pro (I'm in the 14 day return period from Apple). Any advice on what to do?
there's a guide about creating a Fusion Drive on the same website:
http://www.macworld.com/article/2015664/how-to-split-up-a-fusion-drive.html
but I'm not sure if this would be the same way Apple does it and if it would cause problems.
I'm considering just asking Apple. I wouldn't mind keeping the iMac really, but really liked what I saw today and I'm within the return period.
I do work with a guy who used to work as a tech at an Apple Store and I'm waiting to see what he says back (email), but I figured I'd ask on here.
http://www.macworld.com/article/2015664/how-to-split-up-a-fusion-drive.html
I'm considering exchanging it for a new MacBook Pro (I'm in the 14 day return period from Apple). Any advice on what to do?
there's a guide about creating a Fusion Drive on the same website:
http://www.macworld.com/article/2015664/how-to-split-up-a-fusion-drive.html
but I'm not sure if this would be the same way Apple does it and if it would cause problems.
I'm considering just asking Apple. I wouldn't mind keeping the iMac really, but really liked what I saw today and I'm within the return period.
I do work with a guy who used to work as a tech at an Apple Store and I'm waiting to see what he says back (email), but I figured I'd ask on here.
ambientmystic
Member
That.. is actually a pretty decent laptop for the price.
Granted it is very dated (The 5850 is a 2010/2011 era DX11 graphics card and was the 2nd fastest ATI card in its class at the time), but it should be able to handle newer games at lower resolutions semi-decently. The i5 in that laptop is just a dual core with Hyper Threading though. (2 cores, 4 threads).
Only Intel chips with the i7 xxxx-QM designation are quads when it comes to laptops, afaik.
Don't count on it handling next gen though (it will run, but poorly). We're looking at a Desktop Radeon 7850/7870 as the baseline card, 8 GB RAM at the minimum coupled with a Core i7 quad.
2 questions/concerns for you PC experts to maybe help me with. Please be nice to me; I'm a noob with new PC stuff.
1) Recently bought an Alienware X51 R2 with a 4770 CPU. It's nice enough, BUT it freezes about once a day -- literally freezes, not resetting or BSOD. The screen is exactly whatever was happening at the moment of the freeze, and the PC is completely unresponsive. I have to hold the reset button for a few seconds to force a reset to get it working again. This is not related to gaming or anything intensive. It literally happens even when my PC is just left alone downloading files. Pretty bad. I already have an RMA and plan to return it. But what exactly could be causing this?
2) I've discovered that using the Microsoft wireless receiver for XB360 pads completely destroys WiFi signal. For example, my PC gets around 14 - 20 mbps WiFi without the MS receiver plugged in, but as soon as the receiver is plugged in my WiFi drops way down to 2 - 4 mbps. WTF? Now, my router is pretty far away so the signal is maybe 50 - 60%. But is that normal? I guess I'll have to return the receiver and just use a wired controller? Meh.
Appreciate any responses.
1) Recently bought an Alienware X51 R2 with a 4770 CPU. It's nice enough, BUT it freezes about once a day -- literally freezes, not resetting or BSOD. The screen is exactly whatever was happening at the moment of the freeze, and the PC is completely unresponsive. I have to hold the reset button for a few seconds to force a reset to get it working again. This is not related to gaming or anything intensive. It literally happens even when my PC is just left alone downloading files. Pretty bad. I already have an RMA and plan to return it. But what exactly could be causing this?
2) I've discovered that using the Microsoft wireless receiver for XB360 pads completely destroys WiFi signal. For example, my PC gets around 14 - 20 mbps WiFi without the MS receiver plugged in, but as soon as the receiver is plugged in my WiFi drops way down to 2 - 4 mbps. WTF? Now, my router is pretty far away so the signal is maybe 50 - 60%. But is that normal? I guess I'll have to return the receiver and just use a wired controller? Meh.
Appreciate any responses.
iJudged
Banned
Thanks, just waited to make sure it can handle WoW, Rift and some of the other mmos
FUBAR McDangles
Member
We tried to hook it up to our computer but we don't have the software for it. My gf's mom gave us this printer when we moved in and she still has the disc but can't find it anywhere. And if we want to get the software, we'd have to pay like $40-$50 apparently. It's an older printer.
We might just have to pick something up on Black Friday. Oh well.
D
Deleted member 1235
Unconfirmed Member
set your background on both to exact same. then right click the taskbar and go to navigation tab, your boot to desktop stuff is in there.
I'd recommend running like that for a while to see if you can't get your head around the start screen, once you boot to desktop and have your backgrounds the same, the metro thing is not very jarring at all and it works quite well.
if you really need your start button, everybody talks about 'start8'. I don't see why that would be a good idea though, because if you use metro apps on there then it will still take you to the metro interface.
Taco_Human
Member
I have a question. I have an external HDD that stopped powering on. It's a Western Digital 1.5 TB, and the case won't power on. I ordered a replacement encasing for it off of Newegg. So if I take it out and replace the casing, should I be able to recover the data?
pikachu Lv 5
Member
Tried and didn't work. This all started from the beginning. All new parts, but from first start up it's been like this.
Not sure if this is the right place or not, but whenever I connect my gaming pc to my plasma tv, the desktop is extremely zoomed in. The only thing that helps is if I change the input name on my TV to be DVI PC it becomes much closer to what I see on my monitor when connected. However, it's still very slightly cuts off some parts of the screen.
For example my Steam icon is pinned to my taskbar and on my monitor it shows it in full. However, on my TV the black end of the Steam icon is almost cut off, which means that the empty space under the steam icon is being cut off.
This is how I see it on my monitor.
This is my TV.
Sorry about the poorly done crop job, but the main point is how the bottom empty space of the taskbar seems to be cut off.
How do I stop my TV from doing this?
For example my Steam icon is pinned to my taskbar and on my monitor it shows it in full. However, on my TV the black end of the Steam icon is almost cut off, which means that the empty space under the steam icon is being cut off.
This is how I see it on my monitor.
This is my TV.
Sorry about the poorly done crop job, but the main point is how the bottom empty space of the taskbar seems to be cut off.
How do I stop my TV from doing this?
Hey sorry for the delay, but yea none of those fixed my issue. It's weird...I don't know where my storage space is going!
And another quick question, I just got a Logitech C920 HD webcam. I notice my Skype video lags a lot. Is there any way to turn down the quality of video that my webcam is sending so that it lags less? Would that even matter?
1) I'd run a virus scan first with something like malwarebytes, then run on-board diagnostics to check if it could be a hardware issue with the hard drive or the RAM chips. Google how to run on-board diagnostics for your system (usually you can select it from the boot options screen by pressing F8 right when the computer starts). If you think the crashes are completely random (i.e not triggered by opening a specific application/game etc) then it could just be a hardware issue, but I'd run thorough scans first and perhaps even checkdisk.
2) Log into the router and try to set the wifi channels to 1, 6, or 11. If its set to one of those numbers already, or auto, set it to one of the other two numbers.
Read more about what I'm talking here:
http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/2113...ter-channel-to-optimize-your-wireless-signal/
Looks like both the Xbox 360 controller radio and your router are beaming their signals on the same channel causing interference. For all of this I'm assuming your router is operating on the 2.4ghz band. If it is, try looking for a better router which is able to run its wifi on the 5ghz band.
Or you can just get the wired 360 controller
Sorry for the late reply,
Maybe try downloading the drivers from the site (basically the same as what's on the disc)?
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareCategory?product=1153481&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&cc=us
Choose HP Photosmart Software Suite (under Driver - Product Installation Software)
You can also try the HP Print and Scan Doctor (under Utility - Diagnostic Tools (‏2)) to fix the aligning problems.