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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
So I have a Brother Wireless printer. It works fine until I restart my computer (I think this is what triggers it, but may be something else).
Basically, if I haven't used it in a while, it will say it's disconnected when I try to print something...but if I turn the printer off and then back on, Windows will find it again and everything will be good.
Any idea why this happens?
Basically, if I haven't used it in a while, it will say it's disconnected when I try to print something...but if I turn the printer off and then back on, Windows will find it again and everything will be good.
Any idea why this happens?
Did you recently install a new driver for your GPU? If you did, install an older version, if you didn't, try to install a new driver. Just to try and rule out the GPU being the problem.
Any recent hardware changes?
Are you able to try with a different screen?
Maybe the printer goes into a sleep mode after a certain time of no activity. Maybe check your printer settings/manual?
Horse Detective
Why the long case?
Question,
I have an SSD and a HD. They are C: and D:.
However recently, some of my software has been detecting a third. I thought it was my printer, and when I disconnected the USB, this third drive disappeared from the registry of one of my applications. However, in a separate application, it still shows up. The icon looks like a disc, but there is nothing in the tray.
I have an SSD and a HD. They are C: and D:.
However recently, some of my software has been detecting a third. I thought it was my printer, and when I disconnected the USB, this third drive disappeared from the registry of one of my applications. However, in a separate application, it still shows up. The icon looks like a disc, but there is nothing in the tray.
It does go to a low power mode, but when I first got it there was no problem with waking up when a new print job came in. I can't remember when this specific issue started happening.
Not a huge deal since I don't print much, but it just continues the cycle of never having a perfectly functional printer. I hate printers...
I'll see if there are any related settings, thanks!
I'm wondering, when the printer goes to low power mode and you try to print something, does it show up as "printer offline" when you check your documents queue window?
Hate printers as well, they haven't really evolved for years except for all the extra bells and whistles.
Yes, when it's not working it's shows as offline (or 'not connected'), but even in sleep mode it still normally shows as connected. I haven't used it in 24 hours and it works when I try to print something now, but I haven't restarted my computer. I'm pretty sure it only happens when I restart my computer (I realize I could verify this easily right now, but will probably check later).
It's just so strange because the printer is on WiFi and my computer has nothing to do with it. When it's having its "issue" my Macbook can't see it either, but a power cycle fixes that too.
Or maybe it just takes longer than 24 hours and my router does something with it, I don't know.
From another thread:
So Cryptlocker has gotten me a touch paranoid, so I figured I'd ask Tech-GAF about other problems i'm worried about.
I'm sort of a noob when it comes to processes and the like, so I figured I'd show the ones I'm worried about and hope that Techsavy-GAF can help me out by explaining what they do/are used for. I don't think the ones I'm concerned about are viruses/___ware per say, but it never hurts to check.
-igfxsrvc/igfxext
-hkcmd
-nvvsvc
-nvXDSync
-csrss
-YCMirage. (I'm thinking a porn site installed this, but it could very well be my webcam.)
-SSCKbdHK
-ETDCtrl
-brs
-igfxpers
-unsecapp
-EasySpeedUpManager
That last one I'm wondering about the most. It seems so... generic of a program that I'm thinking it's spy/mal/ransomware or the like.
ambientmystic
Member
Can you folks help me out with running a Memtest? I want to boot it from USB Flash drive. I set up my flash drive, but every time I boot my PC, it goes straight to Windows 7. I changed the order of booting prioriity in BIOS, but still I can't run a Memtest.
During startup, I also hit F11 to select a boot device, but there was no USB Flash drive there
.
Here is the boot order:
Any advice?
During startup, I also hit F11 to select a boot device, but there was no USB Flash drive there
.Here is the boot order:
Any advice?
Can you folks help me out with running a Memtest? I want to boot it from USB Flash drive. I set up my flash drive, but every time I boot my PC, it goes straight to Windows 7. I changed the order of booting prioriity in BIOS, but still I can't run a Memtest.
During startup, I also hit F11 to select a boot device, but there was no USB Flash drive there
Here is the boot order:
Any advice?
Could be USB Hard Drive or USB Key. My old AMI BIOS called any USB drive just USB HDD.
So my computer has been getting a variety of BSOD and shutting down every 5-20 minutes for the past several months. I've tried swapping out a new psu, new memory, using on board video, etc and I still get the same problems. But I've been too poor to upgrade.
This morning out of frustration I punched the front of my computer and some how shorted the system and it makes this noise and not boot up
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qotpyathdggy3zr/Video Oct 29, 3 00 18 PM.mov
So I just said screw it and bought a new CPU, memory and motherboard. And it was working fine after the 3rd reboot the same noise is happening and my computer is stuck on the motherboard logo.
Any suggestions?
This morning out of frustration I punched the front of my computer and some how shorted the system and it makes this noise and not boot up
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qotpyathdggy3zr/Video Oct 29, 3 00 18 PM.mov
So I just said screw it and bought a new CPU, memory and motherboard. And it was working fine after the 3rd reboot the same noise is happening and my computer is stuck on the motherboard logo.
Any suggestions?
Hey GAF!
Can any recommend me a good log parser? I'm going to be monitoring an ASA firewall via the ASDM client. (I'm a network security student learning how to do this for me work study program). I'm looking into different log parsers on my own but wanted to see if anyone on GAF has any recommendations. Can be freeware or commercial software. Thanks!
Can any recommend me a good log parser? I'm going to be monitoring an ASA firewall via the ASDM client. (I'm a network security student learning how to do this for me work study program). I'm looking into different log parsers on my own but wanted to see if anyone on GAF has any recommendations. Can be freeware or commercial software. Thanks!
Your HDD is FUBAR.
StickyFingers
Member
Itunes doesn't open when I click on 'open in Itunes' link in Chrome.
It used to do that befor my laptop had to be sent away for repairs. Anybody know what to do?
It used to do that befor my laptop had to be sent away for repairs. Anybody know what to do?
Need some help with an office issue. My boss and her secretary both need access to a program. Right now they each have the program on their own computers but whenever they make any changes to it, they have to copy some big file and paste it over to the other persons computer or else they would be working on different versions. I was thinking that a third computer could be brought into the room that is dedicated for that program and then accessed for when that program needs to be used. Problem is that space in their office is at a premium so there is not enough room for a third workstation but I was thinking that there could be some like kvm switch solution where the third computer can connect with the boss' and secretaries monitors. My office has no IT person or department and I am the most computer literate person in the office so any help would be appreciated.
Did they deactivate the iTunes plugin in Chrome? Check "chrome://plugins" whether the "iTunes Detector Plugin" is enabled. If it's not there reinstalling/updating iTunes could fix it.
robertsan21
Member
I need a program that will check how much internet I have been using on my macbook.
Any good programs available?
Any good programs available?
so I got a new cable modem and router. everything connects fine wirelessly except the ps3 which when trying to connect says exchanging key information a few times then fails saying it was unable to confirm the key.
I'm using the say pass key as before, I've tried to start a new connection from scratch and same error.
cable modem is a moto sb6141
router is a netgear n750
I'm using the say pass key as before, I've tried to start a new connection from scratch and same error.
cable modem is a moto sb6141
router is a netgear n750
Wouldn't it make more sense to dump the program in a network folder and have them run it from there? That way the computer/server it's on could be anywhere.
Now for my own issue:
Any time I use a fullscreen application, at some point it will alt tab back to desktop. I can go straight back into the application/game, but it happens every time and I'm not sure what's causing it. I've left task manager running to see if there's a process that jumps in resource usage at that time, but nothing out of the ordinary. Any ideas on how I can nail down what's causing this?
StickyFingers
Member
The plugin is there and is activated. I reinstalled Itunes but it still doesn't work. This is so stupid. It always worked perfectly and now it's broken somehow.
thanks for the help though, any other ideas. Anybody else have an idea?
This happened to me before. I deleted all entires of it on my PS3, rebooted it, and created a full new one manually. Worked after that.
NTIETS13A_Superiority
Banned
Howto make win7 run desently in minilaptop (1GB ddr3, Atom N455, GMA3150) . Also Visual Studio 2012 runs like shit. Escpecially wpf application xaml part. Sluggish shit.
Hi all, I was wondering if somebody could help me with a little problem.
I have a Dell Inspiron 530 with a 350W PSU and I have just brought a second hand GPU off my mate: a HIS Radeon HD 5770 ice Q5.
The trouble is I need to update my PSU, probably to around 500W, to run the thing but I'm coming up a blank with trying to find a suitable unit that will fit the case. I've looked on various sites and there doesn't appear to be many definite answers and I don't want to get it wrong. I have the normal size case and am from the UK. Any Ideas?
Thanks for your help.
I have a Dell Inspiron 530 with a 350W PSU and I have just brought a second hand GPU off my mate: a HIS Radeon HD 5770 ice Q5.
The trouble is I need to update my PSU, probably to around 500W, to run the thing but I'm coming up a blank with trying to find a suitable unit that will fit the case. I've looked on various sites and there doesn't appear to be many definite answers and I don't want to get it wrong. I have the normal size case and am from the UK. Any Ideas?
Thanks for your help.
Most PSU's state they will fit standard ATX if they do. So if it says size fits for that you should be fine.
Many thanks for your quick reply, it's very much appreciated.
I'll go and have a look now.
Hello techies!
So lately I've been having problems with my computer's reliability. I've built it three years ago under the guidance with the "Build your own PC thread" here on GAF. This year in April, I gave it some much needed upgrades, but in turn it makes it harder to pinpoint my problems which started to happen at around the same time (but very frequently lately).
I'll try to add as much detail as possible, hopefully not over bloating with information:
1. Every so often, I'll say about 20% of the time, a few seconds in when I wake my computer from sleep mode, a blue screen of death with the error message "DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL" appears. Google gets me info about Nvidia video driver being the cause of this. I never had an Nvidia driver card. This is not limited to just after sleep mode, it also happened randomly during light use of the computer (no gaming, CAD, or any extreme processing.
2. About 5-10% of the time, same situation but not related, my mechanical keyboard will not register. It's as if the driver crashes, but I can't tell because I cannot log into my account. Some signs point is more of a USB driver issue, since the LED lights flicker on and then OFF after re-plugging the cord. The led is supposed to remain solid during normal use. This particular problem never happened with the crash in problem 1, although I never had enough time to check since the crash occurs within seconds.
*I'll mention at this point none of these issues occurred prior to the upgrades, crashes were non-existent.
3. My load-ups are noticeably slower. I've upgraded from a Crucial C300 64GB SSD to a Samsung 840 256GB SSD (not the PRO), and the loading to desktop has been slower. I tried to enable TRIM, but even after running the the commands in CMD and restarting the computer, Hard Disk Sentinel still says TRIM is not enabled. It also rates the performance at 80%, while the 3 year old C300 is still rated above 95%. It makes sense to me.
I admit, I did not do a fresh install of the OS on the new SSD. I simply migrated the contents over.
My Specs:
Windows 7 SP1 64bit
Radeon 6850 gfx card
Rosewill Mechanical Keyboard RK-9000BR (problem #2)
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (suspect)
SSD1 - Crucial C300
SSD2 - Samsung 840 Series
HDD1 and HDD2- WD Caviar Black 1TB (also looking to RAID these eventually)
If a screenshot of my BIOS is needed, let me know. Specifically which sections. Also any other info needed I can provide.
Thanks for the help!
So lately I've been having problems with my computer's reliability. I've built it three years ago under the guidance with the "Build your own PC thread" here on GAF. This year in April, I gave it some much needed upgrades, but in turn it makes it harder to pinpoint my problems which started to happen at around the same time (but very frequently lately).
I'll try to add as much detail as possible, hopefully not over bloating with information:
1. Every so often, I'll say about 20% of the time, a few seconds in when I wake my computer from sleep mode, a blue screen of death with the error message "DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL" appears. Google gets me info about Nvidia video driver being the cause of this. I never had an Nvidia driver card. This is not limited to just after sleep mode, it also happened randomly during light use of the computer (no gaming, CAD, or any extreme processing.
2. About 5-10% of the time, same situation but not related, my mechanical keyboard will not register. It's as if the driver crashes, but I can't tell because I cannot log into my account. Some signs point is more of a USB driver issue, since the LED lights flicker on and then OFF after re-plugging the cord. The led is supposed to remain solid during normal use. This particular problem never happened with the crash in problem 1, although I never had enough time to check since the crash occurs within seconds.
*I'll mention at this point none of these issues occurred prior to the upgrades, crashes were non-existent.
3. My load-ups are noticeably slower. I've upgraded from a Crucial C300 64GB SSD to a Samsung 840 256GB SSD (not the PRO), and the loading to desktop has been slower. I tried to enable TRIM, but even after running the the commands in CMD and restarting the computer, Hard Disk Sentinel still says TRIM is not enabled. It also rates the performance at 80%, while the 3 year old C300 is still rated above 95%. It makes sense to me.
I admit, I did not do a fresh install of the OS on the new SSD. I simply migrated the contents over.
My Specs:
Windows 7 SP1 64bit
Radeon 6850 gfx card
Rosewill Mechanical Keyboard RK-9000BR (problem #2)
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (suspect)
SSD1 - Crucial C300
SSD2 - Samsung 840 Series
HDD1 and HDD2- WD Caviar Black 1TB (also looking to RAID these eventually)
If a screenshot of my BIOS is needed, let me know. Specifically which sections. Also any other info needed I can provide.
Thanks for the help!
Cross posting from other thread, because I was too lazy to check if there is a thread on gaf dedicated to tech help.
Some very helpful users suggested updating my BIOS and drivers, and so I did, but the BSODs kept on happening. Later I was suggested to run a MemTest, and after 12 hours, there were no errors found on my RAM. I also checked my HDD and SDD, and they both seem fine according to diagnostic software.
So, what else is there for me to do? Should I just buy new RAM and hope it will solve my problem?
Some very helpful users suggested updating my BIOS and drivers, and so I did, but the BSODs kept on happening. Later I was suggested to run a MemTest, and after 12 hours, there were no errors found on my RAM. I also checked my HDD and SDD, and they both seem fine according to diagnostic software.
So, what else is there for me to do? Should I just buy new RAM and hope it will solve my problem?
1. Might be driver related, Possibly hardware related (BSOD's almost always point to hardware issues). Since you just migrated over your previous install this could be the issue. Do a Fresh install.
2. Again, it sounds related and again, it might be hardware issues. Do a fresh install.
3. You should have the drive in AHCI mode in BIOS. This should be set prior to installing Windows. Putting it in AHCI after windows has been installed will result in a BSOD. I suggest doing it because you're gonna need a fresh install anyways.
This is related to migrating and it's likely that's whats causing the slower boot time.
So yea, do a fresh install.
EDIT
Since memtest did not find anything i wouldn't go out and buy new memory. It could be related to drivers. I know Punkbuster (anti cheat software used in battlefield) and realtek drivers (most common integrated sound card and network adapter) have caused issues. You could try uninstalling these drivers and cleaning them out with something like driver sweeper. Windows have generic drivers that works just fine. Realtek are god awful.
I would avoid updating drivers through software. Just go to the manufacturer's site and download them. You only really have to download chipset drivers from the motherboard website and graphics card drivers.
What you could do, if you feel like you've tried testing everything is do a fresh install so there's no drivers interfering and just slowly add software again til you notice the bsods.
Have you run prime 95 to see if the bsods happen during cpu load? There's also gpu testing software to rule out that. Furmark is the only that comes to mind but that is more of a burn in/temperature test and not something that should be running for more than 20 minutes tops. Check the "i need a new pc" thread over at the gaming side for software suggestions.
goldenticket
Member
ok guys/gals i need help setting up my parents iPad to be able to send and receive texts to other iphones/ipads using the messaging app. i don't have an iPad just an iPhone and google is failing me.
Welp, I did MemTest again and after 3 hours, it shows one error. So should I replace this ram now?
ab.aeterno
Member
Hey SupportGAF.
So I'm looking to find a backup software equivalent to Acronis True Image. The UI was pretty good and the software made automating backups easy, but when it actually came time to do a restore, it managed to completely fuck up the boot record of the hard drive the backup was on. It took an Ubuntu live disc and hours to recover other backups off the drive and wipe it.
Needless to say, I won't be touching another Acronis product after the ordeal it caused (it also fucked up the hard drive it restored, and I had to do a fresh install on it anyways.)
I'd love to find something equivalent. Any recommendations?
So I'm looking to find a backup software equivalent to Acronis True Image. The UI was pretty good and the software made automating backups easy, but when it actually came time to do a restore, it managed to completely fuck up the boot record of the hard drive the backup was on. It took an Ubuntu live disc and hours to recover other backups off the drive and wipe it.
Needless to say, I won't be touching another Acronis product after the ordeal it caused (it also fucked up the hard drive it restored, and I had to do a fresh install on it anyways.)
I'd love to find something equivalent. Any recommendations?
A question about Windows installation:
Will installation fail if there's not enough room to create a full hiberfile.sys and page file?
The reason is I have a 256gb SSD in my Macbook, and I'd like to allocate 30gb for Windows, but since I have 16gb of RAM I assume it's going to attempt to waste 32gb of space with those files.
I can always set the partition to 45gb and delete them once it's installed, but then I'll have a bunch of empty wasted space. Unless there's a way I can shrink the Boot Camp volume afterward?
Edit: Microsoft's own requirements give a 20gb minimum, so I'm guessing it'll just shrink those files down so they fit. I'll give it a try.
Edit 2: It worked, and apparently it prioritized creating a 16gb swap file over the hiberfile, which it didn't create at all. So hibernation was just disabled from the start.
Will installation fail if there's not enough room to create a full hiberfile.sys and page file?
The reason is I have a 256gb SSD in my Macbook, and I'd like to allocate 30gb for Windows, but since I have 16gb of RAM I assume it's going to attempt to waste 32gb of space with those files.
I can always set the partition to 45gb and delete them once it's installed, but then I'll have a bunch of empty wasted space. Unless there's a way I can shrink the Boot Camp volume afterward?
Edit: Microsoft's own requirements give a 20gb minimum, so I'm guessing it'll just shrink those files down so they fit. I'll give it a try.
Edit 2: It worked, and apparently it prioritized creating a 16gb swap file over the hiberfile, which it didn't create at all. So hibernation was just disabled from the start.
The One Who Knocks
Member
For those of you who this is too long to read the entire post: Could you please link the drivers that I need to install (see first image for what I have)? I would be quite grateful as it has been a headache thus far.
I'm hoping somebody here would be able to clarify what drivers I need. I have the following:
When I try to update drivers automatically using the device manager I get a message saying that "the drivers are up to date". I know that this is false as I can see this:
Now, unless I'm missing something, it seems pretty obvious that these are, in fact, not up to date. So I went to AMD's website and installed the auto-detect tool and saw this:
Anyway, despite being almost certain that that was incorrect, for the highlighted reason, I installed that suggested driver (not using that programme which gives me an error every time I use it), uninstalled it, and reinstalled it; this solved an issue I was having with "The Typing of the Dead: Overkill" where it would not boot. It ran smoothly the first day but, after that, the framerate plummeted to around 10FPS from 30-60FPS without any altered settings; I'm aware my graphics card is not good (it is a laptop and wasn't hugely expensive) but I don't understand why the framerate would plummet so heavily (it actually ran better on integrated graphics [15-20FPS] which I find laughable). I tried "Mark of the Ninja", which had been a smooth 60FPS, and it, too, had plummeted to around 10FPS. It, therefore, became pretty clear to me that the driver was, as I had thought, incorrect. I went on AMD's website and entered these:
and downloaded the "AMD Mobility Radeon™ Driver Verification Tool" (which was updated only a few days ago seemingly which makes me even more certain that the Device Manager is incorrect). After installing all of that, I got issues that no AMD Driver was installed after rebooting to complete the installation, so something clearly went wrong, and the integrated graphics stated that there was a new driver available in the Device Manager.
I'm after restoring the system to before I messed with any of the drivers and am back with what I had initially, but I would greatly appreciate any assistance with this, and any links to what drivers I actually need.
EDIT: Also, I know this is probably a simpler issue than most as I'm not hugely competant with computer software/hardware but I simply don't understand why the auto-detect is displaying a HD 4xxx series driver, why that works in solving the compatability issue with "The Typing of the Dead" but slaughters the frame rate in other games (I'm quite sure it's because it's incorrect) and why the driver that I think should work is, seemingly, not (unless I'm somehow botching the installation).
I'm hoping somebody here would be able to clarify what drivers I need. I have the following:
When I try to update drivers automatically using the device manager I get a message saying that "the drivers are up to date". I know that this is false as I can see this:
Now, unless I'm missing something, it seems pretty obvious that these are, in fact, not up to date. So I went to AMD's website and installed the auto-detect tool and saw this:
Anyway, despite being almost certain that that was incorrect, for the highlighted reason, I installed that suggested driver (not using that programme which gives me an error every time I use it), uninstalled it, and reinstalled it; this solved an issue I was having with "The Typing of the Dead: Overkill" where it would not boot. It ran smoothly the first day but, after that, the framerate plummeted to around 10FPS from 30-60FPS without any altered settings; I'm aware my graphics card is not good (it is a laptop and wasn't hugely expensive) but I don't understand why the framerate would plummet so heavily (it actually ran better on integrated graphics [15-20FPS] which I find laughable). I tried "Mark of the Ninja", which had been a smooth 60FPS, and it, too, had plummeted to around 10FPS. It, therefore, became pretty clear to me that the driver was, as I had thought, incorrect. I went on AMD's website and entered these:
and downloaded the "AMD Mobility Radeon™ Driver Verification Tool" (which was updated only a few days ago seemingly which makes me even more certain that the Device Manager is incorrect). After installing all of that, I got issues that no AMD Driver was installed after rebooting to complete the installation, so something clearly went wrong, and the integrated graphics stated that there was a new driver available in the Device Manager.
I'm after restoring the system to before I messed with any of the drivers and am back with what I had initially, but I would greatly appreciate any assistance with this, and any links to what drivers I actually need.
EDIT: Also, I know this is probably a simpler issue than most as I'm not hugely competant with computer software/hardware but I simply don't understand why the auto-detect is displaying a HD 4xxx series driver, why that works in solving the compatability issue with "The Typing of the Dead" but slaughters the frame rate in other games (I'm quite sure it's because it's incorrect) and why the driver that I think should work is, seemingly, not (unless I'm somehow botching the installation).
Guys, need some quick help if possible.
So I've been running an i5 750 and Asus P7P55D for like 4 years and finally decided to upgrade. I bought a 4670K and Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H last week. Today I decided to put it all together. Put everything in, booted it up, and got into the UEFI BIOS first time. No issues.
I also wanted to try out Windows 8.1 on my personal machine, so I used Parted Magic to erase my 128GB Crucial M4. All went smoothly.
Windows 8.1 installed extremely quickly (like 10 minutes? I was surprised how fast it was). But I noticed this watermark in the bottom right corner of the screen Secure Boot isnt configured correctly (I had actually heard about this when 8.1 was officially released but completely forgot about it until I saw it on my own PC). So I Google the fix and it seemed straightforward enough: just turn the PC off, go back into the BIOS, and make sure Secure Boot is enabled and that some Intel platform key is installed...
...Oh how I was wrong. Basically I turned some option on in the BIOS to do with the platform keys and now my PC doesn't even seem to be POSTing. I tried resetting the BIOS using the motherboard's reset switch and even removed the CMOS battery for a few minutes - nothing worked. So one moment I have a perfectly fine PC to one that appears to be broken in some way. What was looking like a 10 minute job has turned into a right ball ache. I really don't want to RMA the motherboard because I'm not convinced it's actually bricked (I didn't physically touch it before it started acting up - I simply changed a BIOS setting). Although initially I thought I might have accidentally turned off the Intel Graphics in the BIOS as I wasn't getting a picture, but I plugged my graphics card back in and was having the same problem.
So yeah, any help would be appreciated.
So I've been running an i5 750 and Asus P7P55D for like 4 years and finally decided to upgrade. I bought a 4670K and Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H last week. Today I decided to put it all together. Put everything in, booted it up, and got into the UEFI BIOS first time. No issues.
I also wanted to try out Windows 8.1 on my personal machine, so I used Parted Magic to erase my 128GB Crucial M4. All went smoothly.
Windows 8.1 installed extremely quickly (like 10 minutes? I was surprised how fast it was). But I noticed this watermark in the bottom right corner of the screen Secure Boot isnt configured correctly (I had actually heard about this when 8.1 was officially released but completely forgot about it until I saw it on my own PC). So I Google the fix and it seemed straightforward enough: just turn the PC off, go back into the BIOS, and make sure Secure Boot is enabled and that some Intel platform key is installed...
...Oh how I was wrong. Basically I turned some option on in the BIOS to do with the platform keys and now my PC doesn't even seem to be POSTing. I tried resetting the BIOS using the motherboard's reset switch and even removed the CMOS battery for a few minutes - nothing worked. So one moment I have a perfectly fine PC to one that appears to be broken in some way. What was looking like a 10 minute job has turned into a right ball ache. I really don't want to RMA the motherboard because I'm not convinced it's actually bricked (I didn't physically touch it before it started acting up - I simply changed a BIOS setting). Although initially I thought I might have accidentally turned off the Intel Graphics in the BIOS as I wasn't getting a picture, but I plugged my graphics card back in and was having the same problem.
So yeah, any help would be appreciated.
I built my computer in 2011 and have been running Windows 7 with no problems until two weeks ago. Suddenly, my computer has started freezing at what seem like random times. The freezes are not consistent in how they occur either. Usually it's a standard lock up where everything is frozen, mouse cursor, monitor, etc. This will typically stay frozen until I manually restart. Sometimes it'll comeback from that frozen state after a minute, and then typically freeze again soon after. It doesn't blue screen, and it doesn't restart.
There are a couple of cases where I notice it consistently freezing. One is typing a search in a help file for Mathematica, the other is when typing in a comment box on gaf. I can't say for sure if Firefox is always open during the freezes though. It does freeze in other cases as well.
I suspected my SSD drive so I've updated the firmware and done what I beleive is the correct procedure for turning of LPM for the hard drive through the registry. The freezing has continued.
Anyway, I'm at a loss for what it is. Is there some error reporting I can find that would help?
Here's my setup:
Windows 7 Professional
MSI P67A-G43 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
CORSAIR XMS 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) RAM
EVGA SuperClocked 01G-P3-1563-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5
Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz
Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power ATX12V
Crucial M4 CT064M4SSD2 2.5" 64GB SATA III SSD (OS Drive)
Samsung 830 Series SSD (Storage Drive)
There are a couple of cases where I notice it consistently freezing. One is typing a search in a help file for Mathematica, the other is when typing in a comment box on gaf. I can't say for sure if Firefox is always open during the freezes though. It does freeze in other cases as well.
I suspected my SSD drive so I've updated the firmware and done what I beleive is the correct procedure for turning of LPM for the hard drive through the registry. The freezing has continued.
Anyway, I'm at a loss for what it is. Is there some error reporting I can find that would help?
Here's my setup:
Windows 7 Professional
MSI P67A-G43 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
CORSAIR XMS 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) RAM
EVGA SuperClocked 01G-P3-1563-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5
Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz
Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power ATX12V
Crucial M4 CT064M4SSD2 2.5" 64GB SATA III SSD (OS Drive)
Samsung 830 Series SSD (Storage Drive)
Brawly Likes to Brawl
Member
I'm having a problem where a mouse I'm using with a new laptop I got a week ago will frequently act as if I double clicked when I meant to do a single click. The mouse is admittedly kind of old but doesn't seem to be in bad shape. Is there any way I could recalibrate it to try and fix the clicking, or will I have to just buy a new one?
I'll do a fresh install.
I'd start there at least. Since you had no issues before installing a new drive. Migrating from a different sized drive can cause issues. I've done it multiple times before with hdd's but the system always felt significantly slower. Remember to back up important files!
You could take out one stick/test sticks separately. If you don't want to wait just do it over night or something. if it's not reporting any issues after 8+ hours you will wanna try running the system with only one stick for x days and see if the system is stable. If it is, congrats, you need new RAM.
You could also just go out and buy new RAM but i'm cheap and really only buy new hardware after rigorous testing.
Have you checked the manual and tried clearing cmos with the jumper?
Refer to your motherboard manual.
You could try that as well as leaving the battery out for a couple of hours. In rare cases it doesn't actually reset, although from experience this tend to be a case of a faulty motherboard. :/
Do you have the PC Speaker connected? Connect it if you have one and listen to the error signal, if any. Not sure if newer mobos even use error signals since i haven't had to deal with a pc speaker in chassis for years.
Look up what bios it is (ami, award or whatever) and search for bios beep codes. That might get you in the right direction.
Have you tried disconnecting everything except one stick of ram and cpu fan? Try that also just in case. Change the RAM stick if one doesn't seem to work.
Check the event viewer and see if you can decipher there what's causing the lock ups.
Administrative Events should show the errors prior to the lock up.
Could be a driver?
Ronabo
Member
Uninstall your graphics driver. Then download and run Driver Sweeper to make sure all the old crap is gone. Then try the auto detect thing again.
The thing is, I only have one stick of ram (8gb)
. I connected it to another slot on MOBO, and if that doesn't help, I'll reinstall Windows. AND IF THAT DOESN'T help, well, I'll buy new RAM.Update: so shortly after my request for help I decided to have another fiddle (left everything installed). I decided to flick he top CMOS switch off to see what it did. I'm not used to the concept of a dual-BIOS but assumed that's what the switches were (ie you could turn one BIOS off if one configuration was acting up). Anyway, after doing that I pressed the CMOS button and the PC started booting up. I got a message saying the BIOS had been reset. Problem sorted. I loaded BIOS defaults and just went back into Windows. For he rest of the evening I decided I couldn't be arsed with the hassle of tweaking my system in case it went tits up again so just left RAM and CPU at stock clocks (for the record I didn't overclock previously, but did intend to once everything was sorted). So yeah, everything seemingly working well.
So it gets quite late and in my infinite wisdom decide to try an overclock on the CPU. I shoved the multiplier on 40 and put then CPU voltage on 1.050. Now, I'm hoping I've made a non-fatal schoolboy error now because after setting that overclock my system was freezing on the Gigabyte splash screen. It was late so I couldn't be bothered to open her up to reset the BIOS, but I'm hoping that's all I'll need to do when I get home from work.
Otherwise for the 3-4 hours that I actually managed to use my PC for, it was flawless. It's just the BIOS giving me aggro it seems...
I can see all of the forced restarts I did as critical errors, but no real pattern (to me) of other errors. There are always several events around the time of the restart, but they seem to change each time. Is there a place to get help reading the even viewer?
Sorry for extremly late reply. Laptop monitor is broken(long story) so it's permanently connected via hdmi to my HD sony tele. No hardware changes or driver updates(that i know of). i'll give the driver update a try see what happens. Thanks for the feedback terafe!!!!
The One Who Knocks
Member
It hasn't been enough to update the drivers to the most recent ones (for some reason, they now state "09/12/2010") but it has been enough to solve my issues with The Typing of the Dead which is primarily what I was looking for so thank you.
I'm new be nice
Member
Hey guys I think I might have a Virus that is able to survive a complete Windows wipe to factory settings. I've got a reformatted hard-drive that i'd like to install a fresh copy of Windows onto, but I can't seem to find where to download Windows 8.1 so I can put it onto a disk without using some weird shady thing.
Is there not an official ISO or something I can download? I upgraded from 7 to 8 via a download so I don't have a disk to do this.
Edit: Wow! Talk about confusing! After spending 30 minutes on Microsoft's support line everything was finally clarified. On this page I downloaded Windows 8.1 and every time I entered my product key it would tell me it was invalid. Apparently, even though Windows 8.1 is free, if you originally only bought Windows 8 you have to download the Windows 8 installer first instead of the Windows 8.1 installer otherwise it will not recognize your product key.
Christ what a stupid design decision. At least it's all cleared up now.
Is there not an official ISO or something I can download? I upgraded from 7 to 8 via a download so I don't have a disk to do this.
Edit: Wow! Talk about confusing! After spending 30 minutes on Microsoft's support line everything was finally clarified. On this page I downloaded Windows 8.1 and every time I entered my product key it would tell me it was invalid. Apparently, even though Windows 8.1 is free, if you originally only bought Windows 8 you have to download the Windows 8 installer first instead of the Windows 8.1 installer otherwise it will not recognize your product key.
Christ what a stupid design decision. At least it's all cleared up now.