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[esms]

I don't know if it's something to do with the GPU.

I tried booting it up with one RAM card, and Windows started up normally and ran the repair program. Everything looked good so I turned it off, put in the RAM card I took out, and booted it up again. Everything seemed to be working fine until it just randomly shut down/crashed a few hours later.
I started it back up again and ran the Memory Diagnostic Program, only 2% in and it said that there was a hardware error, but it shut down/crashed again before it could finish the diagnostic.

So yeah, now my PC is just sitting here too.

Ok, so I was drinking heavily last week and was inspired to try and fix this thing. Somehow, I missed this post.

Tried uninstalling and deleting the display driver and the catalyst control centre and doing a fresh install of the drivers?

This was the key. Do a complete uninstall of your drivers. Like, really complete. I followed this guide. If you have an Nvidia card, this guide will help you. Give it a shot and see if it works.

 

[Ifrit]

I would probably start with a test of the computers memory. Use software like memtest86. If it is not a memory problem, it will be a bit harder to diagnose. Often I will take most of the computer apart, and add parts back to it until I can find the issue.

I normally do that too, but t can be pretty time consuming. I was hoping there could be a better way

 

[OmegaSkittle]

Hey, guess what? I plugged my HDMI cables in the wrong port. Problem solved. Lol

Glad your problem was solved! That's why before I get my hands dirty with troubleshooting, I make absolute sure everything is plugged in correctly and snug.

 

[Zombine]

Glad your problem was solved! That's why before I get my hands dirty with troubleshooting, I make absolute sure everything is plugged in correctly and snug.

The only issue that I am having at this point is that my CD drive is busted. It miraculously read windows 8 and that is all set up, but it refuses to read my Z97X-SLI CD. Is there a way for me to just download the driver and enter my key?

 

[OmegaSkittle]

The only issue that I am having at this point is that my CD drive is busted. It miraculously read windows 8 and that is all set up, but it refuses to read my Z97X-SLI CD. Is there a way for me to just download the driver and enter my key?

Link to the drivers for the Z97X-SLI: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4957#dl

Select whatever you want from the drop-down menu and the appropriate OS and it will list everything for you.

 

[Zombine]

I've only run into one more weird issue and I think I'll be all set. The computer I just built is no slouch. 8 gigs of ram, z97x motherboard GTX 970...and Far Cry 4 runs abysmally. I mean absolutely disgusting. My frame rate is in the dirt and I think it may have something to do with the game using the integrated graphics over my 970. I've looked for options, but I don't know if my Nvidia card is set as the default.

The weird part is that the menus are fine, but once I get to in game it all goes to shit.

 

[Rebel Leader]

Once in a while I get a Action center saying that windows was not shut down properly

 

[OmegaSkittle]

I've only run into one more weird issue and I think I'll be all set. The computer I just built is no slouch. 8 gigs of ram, z97x motherboard GTX 970...and Far Cry 4 runs abysmally. I mean absolutely disgusting. My frame rate is in the dirt and I think it may have something to do with the game using the integrated graphics over my 970. I've looked for options, but I don't know if my Nvidia card is set as the default.

The weird part is that the menus are fine, but once I get to in game it all goes to shit.

Make sure your graphics drivers are up to date: http://www.geforce.com/drivers

Looks like the latest version is 344.75 - WHQL

 

[Woffls]

Found a strange issue with my Dad's PC yesterday. It was trying to connect to a proxy server, but it was only the local host 127.0.0.1 or whatever address and it turned out the internet settings were set to use a proxy DNS, but the box was blank.

Is this likely to have been caused by one of the odd malware programs I found on there, or is it a thing that Windows 7 does sometimes? I find it strange that malware would go to the effort of changing adding a non-malicious proxy.

Never seen it myself, but I'd like to know whether this is likely to require a lecture on malware or not Thanks.

 

[Dystify]

.

 

[Corsick]

Preface: I copy and pasted this from the DAI performance thread as I think it was a bad fit. This is more of a monitor issue than a DAI one and probably doesn't belong there.

Hi everyone, I just got a second monitor and am having some small issues. First of all, my new monitor is set as the primary and It's a dell ultra sharp u2414h. Sometimes when I open up DA:I on it, the screen goes black right away with all the sounds working but nothing displaying. What fixes this is setting my monitors to duplicate the desktop on both, then switching back to extend displays. This is inconvenient and I was looking to see what I could do to fix it. I did manage to install Nview desktop manager to extend my taskbar to both monitors (using windows 7 64bit) but couldn't get the clock and icon tray to the secondary monitor. I was wondering if anyone else has had any odd issues like this. Another thing that is a bit frustrating is that I was somehow able to get the game to run fine on my new monitor in borderless windowed mode where it would NOT bring up the taskbar on top of the bottom of the game and cut off the sound when I clicked on something on my other monitor. I don't know how I did this but it was nice when I didn't want part of the game obscured or sound cut off when I did something on my other display. Not sure if anyone could help with these things but any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[BPoole]

I currently have Kanto YUMI speakers, and noticed they have a subwoofer in port on the back. The manual states that it needs a self powered subwoofer, which makes sense, but I don't understand how I would connect a subwoofer to them. Here are the ports on the YUMIs:

Here are the ports for the sub I'm looking to buy

Would the just connect via the L/R inputs on the sub? If so, what kind of wire do I use to connect them?

 

[opticalmace]

I currently have Kanto YUMI speakers, and noticed they have a subwoofer in port on the back. The manual states that it needs a self powered subwoofer, which makes sense, but I don't understand how I would connect a subwoofer to them. Here are the ports on the YUMIs:



Here are the ports for the sub I'm looking to buy



Would the just connect via the L/R inputs on the sub? If so, what kind of wire do I use to connect them?

Use something like this: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=2680&seq=1&format=2

You can just plug it into one of the channels on the sub. Or use a splitter if you want, doesn't really matter (I just checked the sub's manual: http://www.polkaudio.com/Media/POLK/Product%20Manuals/PSW10_12_MN.pdf).

 

[BPoole]

Use something like this: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=2680&seq=1&format=2

You can just plug it into one of the channels on the sub. Or use a splitter if you want, doesn't really matter (I just checked the sub's manual: http://www.polkaudio.com/Media/POLK/Product%20Manuals/PSW10_12_MN.pdf).

Awesome, thank you!

Just ordered the sub and the cable

 

[BraXzy]

Currently looking at two different laptops that're under £300. Mainly gonna be used for general stuff like browsing the web, watching videos etc. Nothing serious like gaming. Thoughts? Can I get better for the money?

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/2583075.htm#pdpPromotions

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/1474219.htm

 

[Celegus]

Also posted on Tom's Hardware, but if anyone has an idea...

I'm trying to help my in-laws out with their computer problems, but I'm 4 hours away and will only have one chance to get it working when I visit in a couple weeks. Which makes testing rather difficult. I was there last week, but didn't have much time to mess with it or figure out what might be bad.

Their computer recently stopped turning on when put into sleep mode - not sure exactly when it started, at least a few months ago. It will eventually turn on if you switch off the power supply from the back and wait 15-20 minutes, then turn it back on and hit the power. Most of the time anyway, it was still finnicky. Sometimes it wouldn't turn on at all, and once it even turned on just from disconnecting the power button jumper. Usually after cutting power completely and trying it, the CPU fan would start to spin for half a second and then nothing, but only the first time after reconnecting the power.

When you get lucky and it does turn on, it stays on indefinitely (they're leaving it on for the next two weeks until I come back as a precaution), so it doesn't seem to be the PSU itself. Unless there's a short somewhere, but I didn't think to test unplugging each device from the PSU individually.

I'm just not sure if it's the motherboard, the power supply, or even the case and the front connections. I tried hooking up the reset button to the power pins to no avail, and also touching the two power pins together with a screwdriver (nothing). Hopefully it's not the motherboard, because it's a Socket AM2+ CPU and those aren't too common these days. I'm just nervous since I'll need to order any parts before I head over to their house, and only get one shot at it.

This is the motherboard in question - about 4 years old. Thanks in advance if anyone has any ideas or has run into this before, my google-fu hasn't come up with a clear answer yet. I can provide any additional info if it helps.

 

[atr0cious]

This instead.

So I went ahead and grabbed this Aspire V15 Nitro Black on reccomendation from the laptop thread, but when I went to run the PES2015 demo, it said I had zero vram. Do I have to buy a video card for this thing? Also, I was reading about turbo boost, but I cannot find out how to enable it or anything. The BIOS menu doesn't even show up when pressing F2, just some general power options.

Any help would be great, as I have no idea how these new fangled laptops work.

 

[Mik2121]

GAF, I need your help! I've been stuck with my broken PC for a week already and I definitely need to get back to it. Was busy at work so I didn't have much time to look into it.

My PC specs are as follow:

Intel Core i7-3820 3.60GHz
NVIDIA GeForce GTX680 2GB
750W Delta Electronics PSU
16GB DDR3 SDRAM(PC3-12800/4GBx4/4channel)


Got 2 HDDs

SATA3 2TB HDD
Samsung 120GB (840series SATA6Gb/s)

If you need more specific info, lemme know.

Now, regarding the actual issue... it all started about 2 months ago, when my PC suddenly decided to shut down. I tried to turn it on and it would go into an endless loop without even reaching the BIOS screen. Sometimes I could even hear some sort of scratchy sound.

After a few tries it came back to life but it happened again a month ago. Again, it came back to life. Last week it happened again and I tried booting it without any USB nor anything connected, and no luck. It came back one but turned itself off after a couple hours and now it's been dead for a week.

When I turn it on the fans start, the motherboard lights go on (the little + and - buttons and something else), but the keyboard doesn't even turn on and after some 20 seconds or so it just dies and restarts again.

I have a feeling it might be the SDD where I have my Windows installed, or the PSU if the PC isn't receiving enough power, but I have absolutely no idea. Recently I've had a bunch of things plugged into my PC...



Anyway, if you guys can help me out here, I'd appreciate it. If it's something like just a broken HDD or something it's alright, I can go and grab a new one. I just want to get it healed!

 

[Fevaweva]

TechSupport GAF I need your help!

Seemingly at random, these things happen to my computer:

• It locks up with no BSOD and I am unable to do anything until I physically restart my pc
• My keyboard and mouse don't work when I start up the computer
• Windows fails to start...admittedly this has only happened once
• It will lock up right at the beginning of the start up process...usually when loading the BIOS I think

It is nothing to do with memory (I had memory troubles before and it was nothing like this) and it happens so sporadically (sometimes weeks go by without a hitch) that I don't know what good taking it a part and putting it back together will do. The only constants are this: Something bad usually happens when I start up my computer or playing a game/watching a video.

I don't know what information you need to help me, so here is my Dxdiag. Oh and my computer was custom built by my dad and me.

 

[Joohanh]

Hey guys, here's one where I'm in a deadlock:

I can run games using DirectX 11 perfectly, but if I switch to older interfaces (DX10 or DX9), my games turn into a blurry mess. I think the problem is with texture filtering: the models themselves are rendered fine.

I'm using the latest ATI Catalyst and my video card is HD 5870.

I've tried, of course, all the basics including:

• updating and reinstalling drivers
• updating and reinstalling redistributables
• running dxdiag and checking everything is fine

The only thing I haven't really tried is uninstalling and reinstalling DirectX itself, as Microsoft's installer insists everything is fine.

Any suggestions?

EDIT:

I'll edit my post to provide a solution if people are encountering the same problems. (I solved this myself )

The issue arises sometimes if you're using a third party driver adjustment program such as RadeonPro. If you mess around with the global settings, you might screw your registry entries for graphical effects. Reinstalling stuff doesn't help, because new drivers and such just get their specifications from the registry. It's quite simple, but hard to figure out.

 

[mrklaw]

My office outlook mailbox is hitting its limit and I want to auto archive older emails in my inbox. But is there any way to only archive the inbox, not the subfolders? I have my project/subject folders as subfolders from my inbox, so they are stored online and I can access them anywhere. If I turn on the default auto-archive it archives those emails that I want to keep stored in my folders.

 

[mrmisterwaa]

My office outlook mailbox is hitting its limit and I want to auto archive older emails in my inbox. But is there any way to only archive the inbox, not the subfolders? I have my project/subject folders as subfolders from my inbox, so they are stored online and I can access them anywhere. If I turn on the default auto-archive it archives those emails that I want to keep stored in my folders.

Only recently started using Outlook at work. Have you tried setting the autoarchive functionality for those specific sub-folders to "do not archive"?

 

[Brutalx2]

Hey GAF, i've got a decent computer and every game i play lately is just having a low FPS problem, and i tried everything in game. (forgive me if this is not the right place but i am desperate for an answer)
Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4590 CPU @ 3.30GHz x4 ~3301MHz
AMD Radeon R9 200 Series
8GB RAM

All drivers are up to date, any suggestion on what might be the problem?

 

[opticalmace]

Hey GAF, i've got a decent computer and every game i play lately is just having a low FPS problem, and i tried everything in game. (forgive me if this is not the right place but i am desperate for an answer)
Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4590 CPU @ 3.30GHz x4 ~3301MHz
AMD Radeon R9 200 Series
8GB RAM

All drivers are up to date, any suggestion on what might be the problem?

What video card in particular is it? What resolution do you play at? What games and what settings (medium, ultra, etc)?

 

[Brutalx2]

What video card in particular is it? What resolution do you play at? What games and what settings (medium, ultra, etc)?

It actually says AMD Radeon R9 200 Series in the Device Manager, i am playing at 1920X1080, and it actually at every game at any settings(on normal it runs on 5 FPS and that is the highest) : Archeage, FFXIV, GW2.

Should i re-install my driver ?

 

[opticalmace]

It actually says AMD Radeon R9 200 Series in the Device Manager, i am playing at 1920X1080, and it actually at every game at any settings(on normal it runs on 5 FPS and that is the highest) : Archeage, FFXIV, GW2.

Should i re-install my driver ?

5fps? Whoa, definitely try reinstalling the driver. Grab the newest AMD driver and a program called DDU (http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html).

Then:
- uninstall current amd drivers in windows using the regular amd tool
- reboot into safe mode; use DDU to wipe out any remaining bits of that driver
- reboot into windows normally, then install the latest amd drivers.

Would you mind installing Speccy (http://www.piriform.com/speccy)? Then we can see your exact system specs.

 

[Brutalx2]

Would you mind installing Speccy (http://www.piriform.com/speccy)? Then we can see your exact system specs.

there you go:
Graphic Card:

Overall:

 

[kennah]

Judging by the device id you have a 280X. That should be getting way more than 5fps.

 

[Brutalx2]

Edit: I figured out the problem. The version 14.9 of the Radeon driver was defective!! I rerolled it back to 14.4 and now everything is working perfectly! Thank you guys for the help!

 

[Baleoce]

Was modding a third party pad of mine (putting in different analogue sticks, and noticed that the red/green wire connector for the L2 button had come loose from its board. It was a really short wire so it made things difficult when I had to take the main board off to get to the sticks. There was two small silver spots where the wires resided. Am I going to need to solder them back, or is there any other way I can do it?

 

[mrmisterwaa]

Question: I occasionally get a "CPU fan error!" warning at start up. I've opened up the case about half a dozen times this has happened and checked everything carefully to see whether any of the fans have stopped or anything isn't functioning properly. However, all of them usually work the way they're supposed to.
Only oddity is that a single fan to the side of the case will occasionally not start (regardless of whether that CPU error appears or not), but starts working again over time or immediately if you give it a small spin manually. I've checked the temperature both immediately after these errors and after having played a game for a very long time and no component ever leaves the acceptable temperature range.

What could be giving me these errors? Is there something wrong that I'm not seeing?

CPU Fan Error - could be anything from faulty wiring or the processor not being seated correctly.

Can you please provide a bit more information as your seat? What is your processor? What motherboard? What heatsink are you using?

List of things you can try to solve the problem:
Check to see if the CPU fan pins are damaged. (Anything from broken/bent pins)
Re-seat processor.
Try another heatsink.

CPU Fan Error is the result of anything interfering with the pins/fans connected to them - this happens to my rig quiet a bit as I am using liquid cooling and my radiator fans are connected to the CPU Fan Pins (as I do not actually have a fan-based-heat sink on the CPU).

 

[opticalmace]

Edit: I figured out the problem. The version 14.9 of the Radeon driver was defective!! I rerolled it back to 14.4 and now everything is working perfectly! Thank you guys for the help!

Glad it worked out.

 

[The Red Wizard]

My PC doesn't want to boot to Windows. Sometimes I get an error that says that Windows needs to be repaired, most times the screen just stays blank and the monitor says that there's no signal. At one point I managed to get to the boot menu and my SSD showed up and loaded Windows fine but when I went into the BIOS, only one of my HDDs came up, not the other one or the SSD with Windows.

Does anyone know what I should do?

 

[BraXzy]

This is probably a stupid question but I'm not all that savvy with networks/wireless.

What do I need to buy in order to boost my wireless signal in my room using an ethernet from the router downstairs?

Signal is patchy in my room upstairs, and I've seen stuff that you plug in near your router, it catches the wireless signal and amplifies it.. I don't want that. I have a mega long ethernet cable that feeds into a splitter in my room upstairs and goes to my other wired devices. I want a wireless splitter/transmitter.

Would I just use a router? How would that work?

 

[terrisus]

Hey all. So, I'm encountering the following issue trying to use a Dual-Monitor setup

Windows 8.1
Laptop
Connected to television via HDMI cable
Set to Extend
Power settings set to "Do Nothing" on lid close


Everything works perfectly fine when I have the laptop open. I can move stuff back and forth between the screens, everything is normal, etc.
However, as soon as I close the laptop, the display on the television flicks, and everything that was on the laptop screen now appears on the television (with the stuff that had been on the television disappearing).

Considering my laptop is set to Do Nothing on lid close, I don't see why it should make a bit of difference that my laptop lid is closed. It should continue doing what it's doing, and the television should continue to display what had been on it.
So, what am I doing wrong/how can I get it to do that?

 

[OdysseusVA]

Hey TechSupportGAF!

So, Im attempting to setup QoS/limit bandwidth for Wifi devices and the phone I'm testing it on is not sticking. Tried setting a static IP and by MAC address, but the only way it currently works (kinda) is if I leave the QoS input and output rules blank. Down speed is limited but not the upload.

The router is an Actiontec MI424WR Rev. I from Verizon


Thanks!

 

[Husker86]

Hey all. So, I'm encountering the following issue trying to use a Dual-Monitor setup

Windows 8.1
Laptop
Connected to television via HDMI cable
Set to Extend
Power settings set to "Do Nothing" on lid close


Everything works perfectly fine when I have the laptop open. I can move stuff back and forth between the screens, everything is normal, etc.
However, as soon as I close the laptop, the display on the television flicks, and everything that was on the laptop screen now appears on the television (with the stuff that had been on the television disappearing).

Considering my laptop is set to Do Nothing on lid close, I don't see why it should make a bit of difference that my laptop lid is closed. It should continue doing what it's doing, and the television should continue to display what had been on it.
So, what am I doing wrong/how can I get it to do that?

Basically, you are going from the computer thinking it has 2 monitors, to it thinking it has 1. As far as I know, you can't change this on laptops; it doesn't want you to have items in the second, non-existent monitor, that you cannot reach. It kinda works how you want it on desktops, though, as they apparently can't tell if a monitor is on or off. However, if you unplug a monitor from a desktop (which is technically what you're doing when you shut the lid of your laptop) I bet it would do the same thing.

 

[terrisus]

Basically, you are going from the computer thinking it has 2 monitors, to it thinking it has 1.

I don't see why, considering I'm telling it to "Do Nothing" on lid close.
It should be the same as me tossing a towel over it, essentially

Spoiler

(which might be my alternative... >.>)

It kinda works how you want it on desktops, though, as they apparently can't tell if a monitor is on or off.

Which is what this should be doing. Again, "Do Nothing"

However, if you unplug a monitor from a desktop (which is technically what you're doing when you shut the lid of your laptop) I bet it would do the same thing.

That's not the same thing at all, and that's definitely not "technically" what I'm doing.

In fact, if anything, I'm doing (or should be doing) even less here than "turning off" a desktop monitor.
The screen can stay on for all I care - I just want it closed.


I mean, if it can't be done, it is what it is. I know I don't need to convince you, as if you can change it or something.
But, it's extremely silly that it's doing "something" when I'm telling it to do "nothing."

Ah well... maybe there's a program out there which just turns off the light on the monitor or something, which I'll have to find instead.

 

[oneHeero]

Hoping I could get some help with WiFi drop outs.

I use a basic netgear wnr2000 v4 and have been using it for the past year w no problems.

My pc is wired, tv, ps4 and phone are on WiFi.

I always use Netflix on ps4 but over past month I can't get through full episodes of anything without constant buffering / time outs. I noticed my phone drops WiFi connection sometimes too. I turned off tv and phone WiFi but problem still persist. I've called twc, no problems w connection.

I've power cycled everything. Modem off, than router, ps4 and tv. I've reset my router and updated the firmware and the problem still consist. It'll work for an hr but than start to drop out. This happens using Netflix on ps4, on tv Netflix buffers but stays connected most times but buffers very often.

I was thinking about getting a new router to see if that fixed problem but looking for any suggestions.

 

[Husker86]

I don't see why, considering I'm telling it to "Do Nothing" on lid close.
It should be the same as me tossing a towel over it, essentially

Spoiler

(which might be my alternative... >.>)

Which is what this should be doing. Again, "Do Nothing"



That's not the same thing at all, and that's definitely not "technically" what I'm doing.

In fact, if anything, I'm doing (or should be doing) even less here than "turning off" a desktop monitor.
The screen can stay on for all I care - I just want it closed.


I mean, if it can't be done, it is what it is. I know I don't need to convince you, as if you can change it or something.
But, it's extremely silly that it's doing "something" when I'm telling it to do "nothing."

Ah well... maybe there's a program out there which just turns off the light on the monitor or something, which I'll have to find instead.

Yes, it is "technically" "what" "you're" "doing" as far as the computer is concerned, or else it would be working how you wanted it, wouldn't it? I'm trying to help, no need to get snarky.

There definitely isn't a default Windows setting to keep a display on when the lid is closed because I assume they wouldn't think there would be a use case for that.

I'm pretty sure you'd have to get some third party software, which I have no doubt has to exist.

Does your laptop have ATI/Nvidia graphics? One response I read to a question like yours said that the ATI software made this user-configurable (he was having the opposite problem you are).

 

[terrisus]

Yes, it is "technically" "what" "you're" "doing" as far as the computer is concerned, or else it would be working how you wanted it, wouldn't it? I'm trying to help, no need to get snarky.

There definitely isn't a default Windows setting to keep a display on when the lid is closed because I assume they wouldn't think there would be a use case for that.

I'm pretty sure you'd have to get some third party software, which I have no doubt has to exist.

Does your laptop have ATI/Nvidia graphics? One response I read to a question like yours said that the ATI software made this user-configurable (he was having the opposite problem you are).

Sorry, not trying to be snarky.

Just, I mean, "Do Nothing..."
It shouldn't need a "Windows State..."
It shouldn't be doing anything differently.

It should be exactly the same thing as the laptop being open.
Screen on, images displayed, etc.

It says "Do Nothing"
So why is it doing something?

Anyway, have an NVidia dedicated card.
I'll check that out in the morning.

 

[BreakyBoy]

I don't see why, considering I'm telling it to "Do Nothing" on lid close.
It should be the same as me tossing a towel over it, essentially

Spoiler

(which might be my alternative... >.>)

Which is what this should be doing. Again, "Do Nothing"

That's not the same thing at all, and that's definitely not "technically" what I'm doing.

In fact, if anything, I'm doing (or should be doing) even less here than "turning off" a desktop monitor.
The screen can stay on for all I care - I just want it closed.

You've said before that you want to be a programmer, so let's think of this from a logical/programmer perspective.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Do Nothing setting you're referring to is a drop-down that has other options that all refer to "power functions" (i.e. shut down, hibernate, etc) that would apply to the laptop when your lid closes. As such, each one of those options probably has a one-to-one relationship with some OS level function that has to do with powering down your computer.

So when you close your laptop lid, that triggers an event in the OS that is set up to call whatever function/method/command associated with your chosen option in that drop down list. Shut Down option calls Shut Down method, etc.

Except for Do Nothing. Because there probably isn't a "power function" that corresponds to "do nothing". What that option means is an English language equivalent of telling the OS to not do anything *power* related when the Lid Close event happens.

So, since it does nothing, the OS trucks on once you close the lid. But what's that? A previously available display has been removed! Fire off another event! That event probably calls an OS function that tries to consolidate your desktop's windows to the currently available screen resolution (which is now whatever it was, minus your laptop's display resolution).

Tl;Dr Do Nothing doesn't mean what you think it means. It's working under a different context than what you're assuming.

 

[SneakyStephan]

Getting purple video in youtube in chrome with html5 videos since I updated my gpu drivers a few weeks ago... (amd)
There has been no fix or new driver since then, googling it doesn't help as all the 'purple video' results are for flash player (and it happens with html5 for me not with flash, flash videos play fine)

Any suggestions? I'm really tired of AMD always giving me problems, with my previous amd gpu I had problems with video playback in firefox.

 

[BraXzy]

This is probably a stupid question but I'm not all that savvy with networks/wireless.

What do I need to buy in order to boost my wireless signal in my room using an ethernet from the router downstairs?

Signal is patchy in my room upstairs, and I've seen stuff that you plug in near your router, it catches the wireless signal and amplifies it.. I don't want that. I have a mega long ethernet cable that feeds into a splitter in my room upstairs and goes to my other wired devices. I want a wireless splitter/transmitter.

Would I just use a router? How would that work?

Repost for new page.

 

[terrisus]

let's think of this from a logical/programmer perspective.

I mean, logically, and from a programming perspective, if I had an option that said "Do Nothing," I would expect it to do nothing.

I mean, things are perfectly fine with the screen at a 90° angle, 75°, 50°, 25°, 10°, 5°... Pretty much on down to a 1° angle.
But, as soon as it hits 0°, all of a sudden it does something

I'm almost tempted to just stick a little wedge in between the screen and the base to keep it from closing all the way.
Unfortunately, that's a guaranteed way to get either a cracked screen or a cracked case.

Tl;Dr Do Nothing doesn't mean what you think it means. It's working under a different context than what you're assuming.

Apparently.
I guess I'll just have to find a way around it.

 

[Husker86]

Repost for new page.

This is probably a stupid question but I'm not all that savvy with networks/wireless.

What do I need to buy in order to boost my wireless signal in my room using an ethernet from the router downstairs?

Signal is patchy in my room upstairs, and I've seen stuff that you plug in near your router, it catches the wireless signal and amplifies it.. I don't want that. I have a mega long ethernet cable that feeds into a splitter in my room upstairs and goes to my other wired devices. I want a wireless splitter/transmitter.

Would I just use a router? How would that work?

Yeah, if you have a an ethernet cable in the area where you want better wireless signal all you do is get a router (can go pretty cheap since you won't be using the router functions) and set it to "Access Point" mode. This disables the "router" functions.

Then you can either set the SSID to the same as your main router, or you can make a new SSID so you can be sure you're connecting to the closer network.

 

[Taco_Human]

I'm trying to fix a friend's laptop. They have an issue with Agent Monitor.exe giving an error on boot saying Qt5core.dll is missing.

I tried to uninstall the program which was apparently caused by Vtech Learning Lodge, and I can't. If I attempt to uninstall it gives the same error, but with uninstaller.exe in the error name.

Anyone see this before?

 

[FrsDvl]

So i was asked to fix this lady's laptop. She threw it across the room when she got mad, and now it won't boot. Didn't want to spent too much time on it, managed to backup some of her stuff, and decided i'll just re-install it.

Now every time i try installing Windows, it'll start copying files to the hard drive, and after a minute or so it comes back with an error. After that the hard drive doesn't seem to exist anymore. So the hard drive seems to turn itself off after a little while.

Sometimes the hard drive doesn't show up at all when i need to pick which drive i want to install windows to.

Should i just assume the hard drive is broken?

 

[SailorCosmos]

So i was asked to fix this lady's laptop. She threw it across the room when she got mad, and now it won't boot. Didn't want to spent too much time on it, managed to backup some of her stuff, and decided i'll just re-install it.

Now every time i try installing Windows, it'll start copying files to the hard drive, and after a minute or so it comes back with an error. After that the hard drive doesn't seem to exist anymore. So the hard drive seems to turn itself off after a little while.

Sometimes the hard drive doesn't show up at all when i need to pick which drive i want to install windows to.

Should i just assume the hard drive is broken?

Yeah, the shock from the laptop being thrown almost assuredly broke the HDD.

 

[FrsDvl]

Yeah, the shock from the laptop being thrown almost assuredly broke the HDD.

That's what i figured, but found it odd that i could access the drive to backup some pictures and stuff. I guess i'll just tell her to get a new hard drive then