Awesome, thanks.
-
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Awesome, thanks.
Something like that happened to me a month ago, it's awful. The solution was switching the mouse to another usb port (it was on a usb 3.0, the blue ones, i moved the mouse to a 2.0). It's crazy but worked for me, no more freezes. Hope it helps if you didn't already tried that, it took weeks for me to figure this out.
SecretMoblin
Member
hi techgaf, I'm mostly computer illiterate so I'm wondering if anyone could help:
I was playing Portal 2 with a friend when suddenly I got a BSOD (I'm on Windows 8.1) with clock_watchdog_error. The last time I got that error message was over a year ago and I'm confused as to what causes it or what the potential solutions might be, because I'm fearful it might happen again.
Apparently according to random Google search results it's a hardware issue?
I'm running an overclocked i5 3570K and according to Speccy normal temps are in the 27-33 degrees Celsius range. Virtually everything I throw at it runs fine, so I'm confused as to what triggers it and how to stop it.
Should I clean the heatsink some more? I've seen suggestions to update the BIOS but I've also been told to never update the BIOS as it's unnecessary or whatever. I'm confused.
I was playing Portal 2 with a friend when suddenly I got a BSOD (I'm on Windows 8.1) with clock_watchdog_error. The last time I got that error message was over a year ago and I'm confused as to what causes it or what the potential solutions might be, because I'm fearful it might happen again.
Apparently according to random Google search results it's a hardware issue?
I'm running an overclocked i5 3570K and according to Speccy normal temps are in the 27-33 degrees Celsius range. Virtually everything I throw at it runs fine, so I'm confused as to what triggers it and how to stop it.
Should I clean the heatsink some more? I've seen suggestions to update the BIOS but I've also been told to never update the BIOS as it's unnecessary or whatever. I'm confused.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
How did you overclock your CPU? What is your clock ratio and vcore? That error is typical of an unstable overclock even if it doesn't happen too frequently. Increasing the vcore value in BIOS can often remedy it if your temperature allows. Try increasing it by 0.05.
Regarding temp: do not use speccy. Download HWinfo64 and see how hot your CPU is under load. Idle temp is rather meaningless.
SecretMoblin
Member
I just overclocked it using the bios settings, increasing the clock rate and testing it each time... there was some guide on the internet for my specific motherboard (I built the computer in late 2012). I don't think I fiddled with voltage, because I think I recall a number of warnings about serious potential damage if you don't know what you're doing, and I certainly didn't and don't. I might have, though.
I downloaded HWinfo64 and I think (?) this is the relevant info about my CPU/clock:
Code:
Processor Name: Intel Core i5-3570K
Original Processor Frequency: 3400.0 MHz
CPU ID: 000306A9
CPU Brand Name: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-3570K CPU @ 3.40GHz
CPU Vendor: GenuineIntel
CPU Stepping: E1
CPU Code Name: Ivy Bridge-DT
CPU S-Spec: SR0PM
CPU Thermal Design Power (TDP): 77.0 W
CPU IA Cores Thermal Design Current (TDC): 150.0 A
CPU GT Cores Thermal Design Current (TDC): 46.0 A
CPU Power Limits (Max): Power = Unlimited, Time = Unlimited
CPU Power Limit 1 (Long Duration): Power = 500.00 W, Time = 1.00 sec [Unlocked]
CPU Power Limit 2 (Short Duration): Power = 500.00 W, Time = Unlimited [Unlocked]
Number of Overclocking Bins: Unlimited
Overclocking Extra Voltage: 0.004 V
CPU Type: Production Unit
CPU Platform: Socket H2 (LGA1155)
Microcode Update Revision: 1B
Number of CPU Cores: 4
Number of Logical CPUs: 4
Operating Points
CPU LFM (Minimum): 1600.0 MHz = 16 x 100.0 MHz
CPU HFM (Maximum): 3400.0 MHz = 34 x 100.0 MHz
CPU Turbo: 4300.0 MHz = 43 x 100.0 MHz [Unlocked]
CPU Current: 4299.7 MHz = 43 x 100.0 MHz @ 1.2209 V
CPU Bus Type: Intel Direct Media Interface (DMI) v2.0
Maximum DMI Link Speed: 5.0 GT/s
Current DMI Link Speed: 5.0 GT/sIf it matters, HWinfo64 says my BIOS is dated 11/24/2012.
I appreciate the help!
lordfuzzybutt
Member
If you say you didn't mess with the voltage then it should be on auto, which can cause some other problems such as overheating.
Ok, I will need to know the exact brand and model of your motherboard. And if you can, go into BIOS and take a picture of the screen where it reports your clock ratio and voltage. That would help a lot as I need to know exactly what you did.
SecretMoblin
Member
It's an ASRock Z77 Extreme4, I think it was a fairly common motherboard at the time.
Apologies for the phone pics, here are what I believe are the relevant sections:
http://i.imgur.com/MRyDZNG.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SsfBFEA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/aA3X6ld.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OPnsTsf.jpg
Additional Turbo Voltage +0.004V
Offset Voltage -0.005V (I may have changed it to this, but I'm honestly not sure)
Honestly I might just try changing it from 4.3GHz to 4.2, I rarely run very intensive games on it anyway.
Again, I really appreciate it!
lordfuzzybutt
Member
That is perfect. And you are welcome, this is what this thread is for.
Basically yes, if you do not really need it, reducing it to 4.2 would be the easiest tweak. Given that your system crashed twice in a year I believe it should be much more stable at 4.2.
However if you want to keep it at 4.3 or go higher in the future, increasing the offset voltage is the way to go, but it requires some testing to ensure safety and stability which I do not think you would like to do it anyway.
Your BIOS is not the latest, and the change logs for later versions do not specify anything related to your problem so I guess you don't need to update it. Personally I always keep my BIOS up to date but it is not really necessary unless it is supposed to fix something that is broken.
Anyway, I recommend going back to 4.2 and call it a day.
Edit:
You can use the sensor function in HWinfo64, set it to start minimized whenever windows boot up, let it record your temperature. If it ever gets too hot when you are playing game or whatever, it might be worth to clean the CPU cooler and reapply the thermal paste. But that is another matter and I just suggest it as a method to keep track of your system.
SecretMoblin
Member
I'll do that then.
Thanks for all the help!
Thanks for all the help!
ChoklitReign
Member
I was able to add Deluge to the hosted application box if I use a specific listening port on TCP, but I still can't prove that port is opened.
Hey, guys. I recently switched from Firefox back to Chrome. I use dark themes on some pages, such as the new-tab page. Unfortunately, Chrome has an issue where the page will open up completely white before switching to the dark theme, which causes a bright white flash every time you go to open a new tab, or click on a link.
Google just provides a bunch of support threads of people suffering the same issues. There was one extension mentioned that was supposed to fix it, but it did nothing.
Does anyone have a solution to this?
Google just provides a bunch of support threads of people suffering the same issues. There was one extension mentioned that was supposed to fix it, but it did nothing.
Does anyone have a solution to this?
creationtheory
Member
Any VMware Horizon View admins here? I have a question about multi vlan network configurations across multiple pools.
Have 3 hdds on this pc, a 256gb ssd mx100 that i use for boot (8.1 64-bit), a 750gb samsung hdd that is a work horse (it is old but still works) and a 2tb hitachi. All SATA. I used to get 80MB xfer speeds from the 750gb->2tb hdd, then it would eventually slow down to the 30s or slower. Tonight i did a lot of transfering and didnt pay attention, and it got down to 5.5MB/sec, which is pathetically slow. Is it possible the drive is going bad? Could it be i need to format it? Its on the same format from several os's ago. Not much is on the 750, i could wipe it clean in no time.
Tried copying a large file from the 2TB->750GB and it was super fast, 60+MB steady. Its when i go from the 750->2TB where its insanely slow.
More edit -
Copying a 1.8GB file from 750->2tb = 2 min 11 sec 13MB/s, copying the identical file from the 2tb->750 = 25 sec and 67MB/s.
Copying a 2 gig file from 750->750 = 23MB/s, copying 2 gig file from 2tb->2tb = 65MB/s. Looks like the 750 is the culprit.
I think the 750gb is on port 5 of the 6 sata ports, im going to switch it to port 2 and see what happens in about 15 min when a file xfer is finished.
Everything remains the same. Going to clean up the drive contents, wipe it and see if that helps. Also, switching the hdd ports restored the usb3 via controller to work, my usb3 ports now work again (was about to rma the mb).
So, happy news to report. Wiped the drive partitions, formatted it, now its working at 85MB/s. All done.
Tried copying a large file from the 2TB->750GB and it was super fast, 60+MB steady. Its when i go from the 750->2TB where its insanely slow.
More edit -
Copying a 1.8GB file from 750->2tb = 2 min 11 sec 13MB/s, copying the identical file from the 2tb->750 = 25 sec and 67MB/s.
Copying a 2 gig file from 750->750 = 23MB/s, copying 2 gig file from 2tb->2tb = 65MB/s. Looks like the 750 is the culprit.
I think the 750gb is on port 5 of the 6 sata ports, im going to switch it to port 2 and see what happens in about 15 min when a file xfer is finished.
Everything remains the same. Going to clean up the drive contents, wipe it and see if that helps. Also, switching the hdd ports restored the usb3 via controller to work, my usb3 ports now work again (was about to rma the mb).
So, happy news to report. Wiped the drive partitions, formatted it, now its working at 85MB/s. All done.
aygomyownroad
Member
Not a PC problem as such but don't think it is new thread worthy.
I am waiting on a HP Stream 7 arriving this week (£50), and I am looking in to a keyboard and mouse for it.
It has Bluetooth, but from what I have seen Bluetooth keyboards are really expensive. There are keyboards that have a dongle with them, but as the HP stream 7 doesn't have a usb these keyboards may be useless.
Anyone know of any solution that works with windows tablets or a cheap Bluetooth keyboards and mice. Really struggling to fin any that are cheap (Cheap is £25-30)
I am waiting on a HP Stream 7 arriving this week (£50), and I am looking in to a keyboard and mouse for it.
It has Bluetooth, but from what I have seen Bluetooth keyboards are really expensive. There are keyboards that have a dongle with them, but as the HP stream 7 doesn't have a usb these keyboards may be useless.
Anyone know of any solution that works with windows tablets or a cheap Bluetooth keyboards and mice. Really struggling to fin any that are cheap (Cheap is £25-30)
ZackieChan
Member
Hello tech support GAF. I need to access some shady sites on behalf of a client (in order to check before doing a DMCA takedown), but I'm afraid they will be full of malware. Is there a way to insulate my machine before going to these sites? Can I go through some other website that shields me from the malware?
Thanks for any help you can give! I'm on a MacBook Air, running the latest Safari, but I can use Chrome or Firefox, as well.
Thanks for any help you can give! I'm on a MacBook Air, running the latest Safari, but I can use Chrome or Firefox, as well.
Best bet is probably to go through a virtual machine. Look for.. I think VMWare or VirtualBox. Basically acts a sandbox you can use without worrying about things (not sure if both are free).
Though there may still be some vulnerability there. Anyone who knows more about it should correct me if so. Can't hurt to run some malware and virus scans afterward, just in case.
ZackieChan
Member
RumblingRosco
Member
EDIT: Never mind, resolved the issue. The setting I was looking for was under File --> Options --> display --> "Print option" header --> "Print drawings created in Word"... for some reason it had become un-checked and without checking that option none of the images would show up.
I have an issue with printing images via Microsoft Word.
I'm using Word from Office Professional Plus 2010. I have a document that is about 20 pages long mostly of text, but spread throughout I have some images saved. They're graphs I made in Excel. I copy and pasted each graph into the document, set each image to Wrap "In Front of Text," and each graph was set as an image file rather than as an editable Excel graph.
I need to save this file as a PDF. when I try to Save As --> PDF, the PDF file looks fine except there are no images. None at all. When I try to print the Word file, there are no images in the Print Preview. I've looked for options relating to "Print Images" but can't find anything like that in the Print Options menu in Word. Am I missing something?
I've printed and saved hundreds of files as PDFs and never had this issue.
I have an issue with printing images via Microsoft Word.
I'm using Word from Office Professional Plus 2010. I have a document that is about 20 pages long mostly of text, but spread throughout I have some images saved. They're graphs I made in Excel. I copy and pasted each graph into the document, set each image to Wrap "In Front of Text," and each graph was set as an image file rather than as an editable Excel graph.
I need to save this file as a PDF. when I try to Save As --> PDF, the PDF file looks fine except there are no images. None at all. When I try to print the Word file, there are no images in the Print Preview. I've looked for options relating to "Print Images" but can't find anything like that in the Print Options menu in Word. Am I missing something?
I've printed and saved hundreds of files as PDFs and never had this issue.
HotHamWater
Member
Anyone got any recommendations for software that can easily trim some video files? I literally just need to define new start and stop points on some videos and save them.
I posted this in the laptop thread:
Is there a way to stop my display port from using intergrated graphics? My Rog Swift is running off of the Intel chip, thus stopping me from being able to use GSYNC. I might return this laptop. I have the new Alienware 17 R2 laptops if that helps.
I've got 11 days to return this thing if there isn't a way to get this to work like I want it.
Is there a way to stop my display port from using intergrated graphics? My Rog Swift is running off of the Intel chip, thus stopping me from being able to use GSYNC. I might return this laptop. I have the new Alienware 17 R2 laptops if that helps.
I've got 11 days to return this thing if there isn't a way to get this to work like I want it.
If you purchase an usb otg adapter you should be able to use almost any usb device with your tablet, As for the Bluetooth peripherals you can probably find some cheap off brands on ebay/amazon for cheap.
Is there no option to do so under the bios? (It may be referred to as optimus)
You can also try playing around with the Manage 3D settings under the nvidia control panel.
Combichristoffersen
Combovers don't work when there is no hair
So, I finally got the Yamaha app to control my receiver via my phone to work, but is there something similar that would allow me to turn on and off my PS4 via my phone?
VindictiveGnome
Member
So I'm having a very annoying issue with my desktop. It restarts all of a sudden when I'm playing games. It's hard to predict when it will happen, but it's usually within 2-3 minutes of joining a match in Titanfall. I added up the wattage of all my PC components and I'm well below my PSUs wattage. Anyone else experience this?
-AMD 8350 (stock)
-Corsair 8gb RAM (2x4gb sticks)
-MSI 770 4gb
-2x SSDs
-2x HDDs
-DVD drive
-Corsair HX 850
-AMD 8350 (stock)
-Corsair 8gb RAM (2x4gb sticks)
-MSI 770 4gb
-2x SSDs
-2x HDDs
-DVD drive
-Corsair HX 850
lordfuzzybutt
Member
What PSU do you have? And does it give any error?
VindictiveGnome
Member
I meant to put that. Corsair HX 850. Event Viewer views it as a Critical error, Event ID 41, Source: Kernel-Power, Log: System.
So it crashes within 2-3 minutes of joining a Titanfall match, but I can play Alien Isolation in 4k for thirty minutes with no crashes.
You think it might be related to a Nvidia driver or something? Seems like I need to test more games.
Edit: Started up the new GFWL-less version of Dirt 3 and was changing the graphics settings when it crashed/restarted. Tried to play the game again and it crashed mid-race.
Corsair wants to do a RMA, so I guess I'll do that and see if it fixes the issue.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Sorry I went to dinner and forgot that I was waiting for your answer.
It can be various issues, including a faulty PSU. So before RMA, try the following:
Go to bios, reset everything to default.
Use DDU to uninstall the gpu driver in safe mode, then download the latest driver and reinstall.
Run memtest.
I recommend running memtest first, for at least 10 passes.
VindictiveGnome
Member
I'm on pass 3. I'll let you know how it goes! I appreciate your help.
VindictiveGnome
Member
Alright, so no errors in memtest. I let it go for 10 passes and I used DDU in safe mode and reset everything to default in the BIOS beforehand.
I started up Titanfall this morning and it crashed before I could even choose a matchmaking playlist. Same event number as before.
I started up Titanfall this morning and it crashed before I could even choose a matchmaking playlist. Same event number as before.
Something 100% safe you can do and pretty easy too it's downloading an Ubuntu Live image, burn it onto a DVD, reset you computer and boot through the DVD (you might have to change the boot order of you PC but it's not hard) and, without touching anything, launch the pre-installed browser and do what you need through it.
It's probably overkill, but if you're really worried it's a way.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Hmmm, do you have anyone who can lend you a PSU to test?
Does it only crash when you get in game? How about normal use?
Did you check all the plugs to make sure everything is tight?
What is your CPU temp? During normal use? and under load? HWinfo64 is good for measuring it.
It might be possible that your CPU cooler is loose somehow and make it crash instantly while under load.
Is your MOBO on the latest BIOS?
But it looks more and more likely to be the PSU.
VindictiveGnome
Member
Unfortunately no, I don't have anyone with a spare PSU. I can render out videos in After Effects and Cinema 4D just fine. One video took ~36 hours to render out in C4D and no crashes occurred. I did a small temp test using HWinfo64 a week or two ago and everything was fine. I'll check all my cords when I get home tonight, but I haven't opened up the computer in a long time, so nothing should be out of place. I'm not sure if my MOBO is on the latest BIOS. I updated it maybe a year ago or so, but I'll check that when I get home as well.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Try removing the graphics card and run it on the iGPU. Test some games see if it crashes.
So lately I'm having two seperate issues with my laptop that I didn't really have before. First is the issue of heat. My laptop never ran particularly hot, but as of late the exhaust fan is working particularly hard and kicking how hot air.
Second, my virtual memory is being taxed to hell and back by the "System" process. My PC says it has like 4.6GB of virtual memory (4.5 recommended) but it's still tapped out. It's really hurting performance, particularly with photoshop.
Any ideas?
Second, my virtual memory is being taxed to hell and back by the "System" process. My PC says it has like 4.6GB of virtual memory (4.5 recommended) but it's still tapped out. It's really hurting performance, particularly with photoshop.
Any ideas?
terrisus
Member
Random question that's been bothering me for a while, but I never get around to doing anything about.
Windows 8.1 (don't remember if previous versions did this. I don't think so, but I could be wrong), Desktop mode.
When you have windows open along the taskbar (web browser windows, Word documents, etc.), if you left-click and move your cursor up, you get a menu with a list of choices like "Pin this program to taskbar" and "Close window"
How do I disable this/get it to stop happening?
I can't even begin to count the amount of times I've clicked on something down there intending to go to it, only to apparently hold my button down too long, for my moving of the cursor to indicate I want that menu to pop up - a menu that I literally never use - and since, of course, "Close window" is down at the bottom right next to where I clicked, the window gets closed. It's pretty infuriating.
Windows 8.1 (don't remember if previous versions did this. I don't think so, but I could be wrong), Desktop mode.
When you have windows open along the taskbar (web browser windows, Word documents, etc.), if you left-click and move your cursor up, you get a menu with a list of choices like "Pin this program to taskbar" and "Close window"
How do I disable this/get it to stop happening?
I can't even begin to count the amount of times I've clicked on something down there intending to go to it, only to apparently hold my button down too long, for my moving of the cursor to indicate I want that menu to pop up - a menu that I literally never use - and since, of course, "Close window" is down at the bottom right next to where I clicked, the window gets closed. It's pretty infuriating.
Hey guys quick question...
For my work I have to move a lot of very big folders (up to 200gb at a time) from my SSD to my Raid backup.
Right now I do it by simply drag and dropping in Windows Explorer. It works but it's kinda slow and annoying so I was thinking about finding a more efficient way of doing it.
At first I thought about adding a shortcut to the backup folder in the "Send To" menu but this only copy the folder instead of moving it.
I looked into maybe using a .bat file or even coding a small C# console app but in both cases you can't move a folder between two volumes, you have to stay on the same drive.
Anybody knows an easy solution for that? Maybe a way to actually move instead of copying when using the Send To menu?
For my work I have to move a lot of very big folders (up to 200gb at a time) from my SSD to my Raid backup.
Right now I do it by simply drag and dropping in Windows Explorer. It works but it's kinda slow and annoying so I was thinking about finding a more efficient way of doing it.
At first I thought about adding a shortcut to the backup folder in the "Send To" menu but this only copy the folder instead of moving it.
I looked into maybe using a .bat file or even coding a small C# console app but in both cases you can't move a folder between two volumes, you have to stay on the same drive.
Anybody knows an easy solution for that? Maybe a way to actually move instead of copying when using the Send To menu?
VindictiveGnome
Member
But..but how will I see what I'm doing? All my display ports will be gone.
Your monitor doesn't have any DVI and/or HDMI ports?
You should never "move" important data like that. Always copy then delete.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
I mean use the integrated gpu, but my bad, it slips my mind that an AMD mobo won't have one. Which mobo you have btw? If you have more than one PCIe slot, switch the video card to another slot and try again.
SyenceLabb
Member
Use robocopy from the command line.
Finally was able to order my PS3 Yellow Light of Death Fix kit:
https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Game-C...ellow-Light-of-Death-YLOD-Fix-Kit/IF213-028-1
Looks like I'm going in to fix it next weekend.
Should be a good project.
https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Game-C...ellow-Light-of-Death-YLOD-Fix-Kit/IF213-028-1
Looks like I'm going in to fix it next weekend.
Should be a good project.
Hardware question for the crowd-
I moved across the country last year and my desktop was shipped in a truck to follow me. While it worked perfectly fine before, I have not been able to get to display since. It's a piece'd together desktop a friend put together for me with parts I bought, so while I'm vaguely familiar with hardware from researching what I needed and getting the parts, I don't understand the assembly of it.
I did some rudimentary troubleshooting and anyway, and here's what I've found.
I can cut the power on just fine. The computer turns on and most of the parts inside the case appear to be functioning fine. The fans on the CPU run, the mobo lights up, and the GPU seems to be running fine as well. However, a fan in the upper backside of the case does not work, no matter what, when it worked before. The central piece of the fan from which the blades extend heats up, but never works.
Additionally, I tried connecting my headphones to the backside of the case where the fan that doesn't work is and where the connections for my visual output, run through my mother board, is. I can't get any sound, but when I connect to the headphone jack at the front of the computer, I can hear sounds as I mash the keyboard.
I checked PSU connections and everything appears to be tight- no loose or unconnected cables. So my current thinking is this- either the part of the mobo near the upper backside of the case is damaged or part of my PSU has been damaged in the move. Does this seem like the right diagnosis or are there other checks you guys would encourage me to make before acting on that assumption?
I'm planning on replacing parts anyway with some upgrades; I just didn't want to begin researching what I should replace and how to fix/replace stuff until I figured out the source of the display issue first.
I moved across the country last year and my desktop was shipped in a truck to follow me. While it worked perfectly fine before, I have not been able to get to display since. It's a piece'd together desktop a friend put together for me with parts I bought, so while I'm vaguely familiar with hardware from researching what I needed and getting the parts, I don't understand the assembly of it.
I did some rudimentary troubleshooting and anyway, and here's what I've found.
I can cut the power on just fine. The computer turns on and most of the parts inside the case appear to be functioning fine. The fans on the CPU run, the mobo lights up, and the GPU seems to be running fine as well. However, a fan in the upper backside of the case does not work, no matter what, when it worked before. The central piece of the fan from which the blades extend heats up, but never works.
Additionally, I tried connecting my headphones to the backside of the case where the fan that doesn't work is and where the connections for my visual output, run through my mother board, is. I can't get any sound, but when I connect to the headphone jack at the front of the computer, I can hear sounds as I mash the keyboard.
I checked PSU connections and everything appears to be tight- no loose or unconnected cables. So my current thinking is this- either the part of the mobo near the upper backside of the case is damaged or part of my PSU has been damaged in the move. Does this seem like the right diagnosis or are there other checks you guys would encourage me to make before acting on that assumption?
I'm planning on replacing parts anyway with some upgrades; I just didn't want to begin researching what I should replace and how to fix/replace stuff until I figured out the source of the display issue first.
Sorry for not replying sooner but the original issue was due to the tablet's sd card reader being busted and not the sd card itself.
Replaced the old one and got a new tablet but now i'n having trouble the actual sd card now as it's not saving anything to it and if deleted whatever is saved on it is immediately restored and formatting it on the actual tablet gives me a "device is currently in use by another process error" and won't format however i tried formatting it on a different computer and it resulted in a "unable to format error".
It wasn't doing this a couple days ago and i'm at a lost for what to do
Taco_Human
Member
Thanks, but my acceleration is already disabled. My pc only has 3.0 slots, no 2.0 I've been checking out resource monitor but I'm not exactly familiar with it, I can't tell if when the mouse freezes if it affects it or not.
Edit: My disk usage seems to skyrocket everytime my mouse freezes. I'm trying to figure out what it could be.
Edit: I really might just do a fresh install. This is really annoying.
Are there two GPUs? A video card + an integrated display? Try connecting to one than the other, see if the other is now the default. After that try clearing CMOS.
Scalemail Ted
Member
I have a mid 2012 13" macbook pro that started to have HDD slow downs. As a precaution, I backed up my data to a 2TB western digital "my passport" hard drive and soon after my macbook drive failed. I did not use time machine, just saved my users folder.
I had successfully mounted the "passport" drive into a 14.04 ubuntu machine just days ago to retrieve a file that I needed, and everything worked fine. But today, when I finally had the time to properly duplicate the user data from the "passport" to another backup drive... of course the passport drive is no longer mounting. It gives me the following error message:
Error mounting /dev/sdb1 at /media/rbuse/My Passport: Command-line `mount -t "exfat" -o "uhelper=udisks2,nodev,nosuid,uid=1000,gid=1000,iocharset=utf8,namecase=0,errors=remount-ro,umask=0077" "/dev/sdb1" "/media/rbuse/My Passport"' exited with non-zero exit status 1:
stdout: `FUSE exfat 1.0.1
'
stderr: `ERROR: `._.com.apple.timemachine.donotpresent' has invalid checksum (0x6634 != 0x4044).
'
I really need to access this data. What can i do to get it to mount properly?
I had successfully mounted the "passport" drive into a 14.04 ubuntu machine just days ago to retrieve a file that I needed, and everything worked fine. But today, when I finally had the time to properly duplicate the user data from the "passport" to another backup drive... of course the passport drive is no longer mounting. It gives me the following error message:
Error mounting /dev/sdb1 at /media/rbuse/My Passport: Command-line `mount -t "exfat" -o "uhelper=udisks2,nodev,nosuid,uid=1000,gid=1000,iocharset=utf8,namecase=0,errors=remount-ro,umask=0077" "/dev/sdb1" "/media/rbuse/My Passport"' exited with non-zero exit status 1:
stdout: `FUSE exfat 1.0.1
'
stderr: `ERROR: `._.com.apple.timemachine.donotpresent' has invalid checksum (0x6634 != 0x4044).
'
I really need to access this data. What can i do to get it to mount properly?
This is probably a really stupid question with a really obvious answer, but it's bugging me something rotten. I use my PS4 to watch Netflix. My PS4 is located in my room upstairs. It's connected wirelessly to the router downstairs. Downstairs, I get full speed at 17Mbp/s. Upstairs, I used to get 1-2Mbp/s in my room. I recently bought this and I now get 10Mbp/s in my room on my PS4. Perfect for Netflix. Except, for some reason, changing my DNS settings never work anymore, whereas they did before. Would I have to configure the routers DNS settings now instead of my PS4, or am I able to alter the settings within the above extender? Please help, I need my US Netflix back...
Hi I got a device from the UK but I live in another place in Europe. The cord is the same as the standard ones between PSU and wall outlet. According to the store I could buy a spare EU PSU cord and use that one instead of the cord that came with the device.
I did so but just noticed that there is a difference in Ampere (Amperage?) between the two cords. The one that came with the device supports 13 Amperage and the one I have support 10 Amperage.
Is it safe to plug in? There is no issue with voltage in regards to the device so it's only the ampere that I need info on.
Best regards!
I did so but just noticed that there is a difference in Ampere (Amperage?) between the two cords. The one that came with the device supports 13 Amperage and the one I have support 10 Amperage.
Is it safe to plug in? There is no issue with voltage in regards to the device so it's only the ampere that I need info on.
Best regards!
thesuperfunk
Member
Can you try and output video to another device?
Does the device itself have a power rating on it? You should be fine provided your appliance doesn't pull more than 10a