It's a rice cooker. The Volt in my region is 220 and it says it will consume between 410-450W. Can't see anything about Amps though.
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
It's a rice cooker. The Volt in my region is 220 and it says it will consume between 410-450W. Can't see anything about Amps though.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Well, P=I*V, so it pulls around 1.86-2.04 amps.
Taco_Human
Member
Holy fuck, I found a page on Toms hardware that finally fixed my problem. It might help someone else out one day here.
If you have a mouse that is constantly freezing and unfreezing, or it stops functioning while still plugged in, but it's still detected as working, this is how I fixed it.
Restart, boot into BIOS, and go to advanced tab.
There should be an option called USB configuration with XHCI mode set to "auto" or "smart auto."
Just disable this completely, save and reboot, and bam. No more freezing more every few seconds or having to unplug and reply mouse in. It worked for me. I'm so happy this shit is done for.
If you have a mouse that is constantly freezing and unfreezing, or it stops functioning while still plugged in, but it's still detected as working, this is how I fixed it.
Restart, boot into BIOS, and go to advanced tab.
There should be an option called USB configuration with XHCI mode set to "auto" or "smart auto."
Just disable this completely, save and reboot, and bam. No more freezing more every few seconds or having to unplug and reply mouse in. It worked for me. I'm so happy this shit is done for.
Is this the GAF spot for PC help? My friend has a Sony mid range laptop that's started acting like shit after an update a while ago. It just randomly runs really slow, won't shut down etc. Ran MS Defender and Malwarebytes without finding anything. Tried restoring to an earlier date and that failed. Right now I'm running chkdisc but it hangs up at 74% of the last step. When I reboot it goes right back into chkdisc and hangs up again.
If it was a desk top I would just reformat and install windows again but its a laptop with specific drivers and the windows license # can't be read. Any advice on what to do?
If it was a desk top I would just reformat and install windows again but its a laptop with specific drivers and the windows license # can't be read. Any advice on what to do?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
This is the desktop thread, the laptop thread is here http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=745783
But you can download some program called Key Finder, it will find the key of the OS version installed, use it to reformat the laptop. If you have problem, call MS and explain you are trying to reformat the same machine.
But if chkdsk fails, it looks like the hdd is going out.
Thanks for the Key Finder bit. chkdsk doesn't fail as much as it just stops. It gets to verifying free space, slowly works up to 74%, and then nothing. All the other basic windows HD test were fine.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Well, I meant hang as you mentioned. Verifying disk space is often the slowest process, try leaving it overnight? But the same things happen to me with a lot of laptops I have seen. All in all, it doesn't look too good.
Just got a new mobo. After fiddling with getting everything hooked up, it won't recognize the GPU in the first slot. It will however recognize a pcie x1 wifi card in the same slot. The gpu does work in other slots.
Any ideas what's going on? I've tried updating the bios, and clearing cmosultiple times. The mobo is a z97x killer. In the hardware monitor in the UEFI, it just doesn't recognize anything as being inserted.
Is the slot just blown?
Any ideas what's going on? I've tried updating the bios, and clearing cmosultiple times. The mobo is a z97x killer. In the hardware monitor in the UEFI, it just doesn't recognize anything as being inserted.
Is the slot just blown?
Schrade
Member
The first slot is a PCI Express x1 slot so I'm not sure how you're fitting a GPU in there.
Sorry, the second slot. The PCIe x16 slot.
Hi everyone, got a bit of a problem here and thought I might as well see if someone could help. Right now I'm getting a freezing issue that I can't pin on being hardware or software related yet. I tested both my sticks of ram and one was faulty but the other tested out just fine in the same slot, so I tossed the bad one. Unfortunately while that fixed an issue with blue screening it has not changed this issue with freezing. My PC froze roughly 4 or 5 times while installing wow and I was thinking that might have corrupted some of the files as the game locks up when transitioning to a cinematic (not an in game cutscene) but plays flawlessly else wise. I did do a repair check to see if my installation was damaged but it checked out fine. The freezes are relatively sporadic and unpredictable, high strain on the pc while gaming does not cause it, as it can freeze while simply web browsing. My temps are fine for my CPU and GPU (maxes out around 64c and my cpu around 60c). I'm running an ASRock Z77 Pro3 mobo, 3570k and a 660 2gb version, all three are stock right now. Anything come to mind for a fix?
soccersamabu
Member
Little help please. Do not know if this is the best spot to post but does any one know how to convert FLAC to MP3? Any suggestions would be grateful. Thank you
diggmcbadass
Member
What kind of freezes? Permanent until you shut down your PC, or small ones that last for a few seconds before resuming?
In either case, freezes are often (mostly) HW related and can come from faulty MB, hard drive, or any device inserted into the PCI slot. Might be one of the hardest things to correctly diagnose. Especially if you don't have replacement parts you can try instead.
ZackieChan
Member
Any obvious reason why my phone and tablet would connect to a WiFi network fine, but my MacBook Air connects and gets no data, or doesn't connect at all? It is perplexing me.
Also, is there a way to get to sign-in pages for public WiFi when they don't show up? For instance, I am in a Bangkok McDonald's and there is open WiFi, but no data. I assume I need to agree to some terms, but nothing shows up.
Also, is there a way to get to sign-in pages for public WiFi when they don't show up? For instance, I am in a Bangkok McDonald's and there is open WiFi, but no data. I assume I need to agree to some terms, but nothing shows up.
I already posted in the Windows 8.1 thread, but maybe you guys can help me out here too:
----------------------------------------------------------------
I just got my HP Stream 7 with Windows 8.1
For some reason, the browser agent isn't set to mobile, which is a bit ridiculous, considering we are talking about a 7" display here.
I read that you can change the User Agent string somehow, somewhere, but I couldn't find out how.. Can someone point me in the right direction?
----------------------------------------------------------------
I just got my HP Stream 7 with Windows 8.1
For some reason, the browser agent isn't set to mobile, which is a bit ridiculous, considering we are talking about a 7" display here.
I read that you can change the User Agent string somehow, somewhere, but I couldn't find out how.. Can someone point me in the right direction?
DaCocoBrova
Finally bought a new PSP, but then pushed the demon onto someone else. Jesus.
FUBAR McDangles
Member
My fiancee's laptop won't boot up and I suspect it is a harddrive failure.
What should I look for to confirm it? Anything I can do to recover files that are (were?) on there?
What should I look for to confirm it? Anything I can do to recover files that are (were?) on there?
If it's really dead it would not show up in the BIOS.
Can be really difficult to retrieve data from it if that is the case. The main problem would be that a PC probably wouldn't detect it. Get an external case with a dedicated power supply. Might be the best option to detect if it is fact dead.
Oracle Dragon
Member
Get a Linux Live CD or bootable USB and see if you can see get to anything on the HD. Alternatives are to take it out and plug it into another PC to check the same.
In terms of getting stuff off, it depends on the nature of the failure. If it is the platters, sometimes. If it is the PCB you're going to be in more trouble (that's the "throw it out" stage for most enthusiasts). If it is critical you can pay for data recovery services, but it's not cheap, and can escalate quickly depending on the type of damage.
If it actually works and is just very unreliable, you can get reasonable (for free) results plugging it into another PC and just copying everything off with a tool that will skip errors (like Teracopy). It's slow, and you won't get everything (if you're lucky the problem areas are just OS stuff, and not your actual files). Last time I did this, it took about 19 hours to copy the data off the drive, but it was cheap and I got most of my stuff I needed.
FUBAR McDangles
Member
Yeah I was messing around with it (I'm the first to admit I don't know a whole lot about computers, but I figure I can do better than some) and the computer was not detecting a hard drive at all. Which is obviously false because it is physically still in there.
Hmm any way to figure out which one of these it is?
Basically she just has a whole bunch of pictures and songs on it that she wants. Nothing absolutely essential but it's obviously kind of a bummer.
The harddrive cannot be detected by the computer so I'm not sure if it works/is unreadable/whatever.
Thanks for the help fellas. I appreciate all answers and any help I can get.
If you have a external casing available then I would remove the drive from the PC and put it in there. Then hook it up to a different computer. If not you must follow Oracle's example for a live cd/usb. Both will require a fair bit of technical knowledge.
Some manufacturers have manuals available on their site ton how to remove the hard drive. On some system they can be a bit tricky to remove. Others fairly easy.
Your best option would be to use a different PC to diagnose the disk from a external case. That is in case the PC have a faulty mainboard/sata connector. If the disk is detected then you can try to run a checkbooks utility to see if the problem is bad blocks on the drive. which can take hours in some cases.
Help Gaf. I have a Netgear r6300 router. Its more than a couple years old now and lately I have had issues with connectivity. A few months ago my connection would drop occasionally from my laptop, or I would get the limited internet icon on my wireless taskbar icon. More recently my bandwidth would would fluctuate from normal to barely anything loading when browsing websites, and then a minute later be fine again. Now a couple times tonight I have been getting DNS errors where I can't connect to websites but I still am able to transfer data after testing a torrent. This was affecting all my wireless devices, laptop, phone, ipad. Usually I just fix it by powering down my cable modem and router, and turn them back on, which usually solves the problem in the short term.
At first I thought it was my ISP because they can be shit, then when I was having similar bandwidth issues at my parents who I was visiting last week (they have the same router, bought around the same time, I recommended it) I thought it was maybe my laptop's radio, because their desktop still had internet connection and was loading websites fine. I started using the troubleshoot problems on my windows 8.1 computer and it would reset my laptop wireless adapter and it my internet would work again for a while. My laptop wireless adapter is Qualcomm Atheros AR9485WB-EG, if that helps, and I updated my drivers for my wireless adapter.
When I got back to my home late last week I thought maybe it's the routers and decided to test it out. So today I plugged my desktop pc directly into my modem once I got DNS errors, and sure enough no wireless connection on any of my mobile devices, no wired connection from my router, but my deskop had no issue connecting once plugged into the actual modem. The download speeds are constant and not fluctuating either. So I think its the router. Reseting seems to fix things in the short term but I have days where these issues happen multiple times and days when nothing happens and it works fine.
I was just wondering if its time to buy a new router? The r6300 has been really good up until a few months ago, it was a good soldier maybe its on its last legs? Is there anything I can do to remedy this problem? If not is there any good router recommendations?
Sorry if i'm not being very clear, networking confuses the hell out of me, and this shit is frustrating, and it makes me feel so stupid.
At first I thought it was my ISP because they can be shit, then when I was having similar bandwidth issues at my parents who I was visiting last week (they have the same router, bought around the same time, I recommended it) I thought it was maybe my laptop's radio, because their desktop still had internet connection and was loading websites fine. I started using the troubleshoot problems on my windows 8.1 computer and it would reset my laptop wireless adapter and it my internet would work again for a while. My laptop wireless adapter is Qualcomm Atheros AR9485WB-EG, if that helps, and I updated my drivers for my wireless adapter.
When I got back to my home late last week I thought maybe it's the routers and decided to test it out. So today I plugged my desktop pc directly into my modem once I got DNS errors, and sure enough no wireless connection on any of my mobile devices, no wired connection from my router, but my deskop had no issue connecting once plugged into the actual modem. The download speeds are constant and not fluctuating either. So I think its the router. Reseting seems to fix things in the short term but I have days where these issues happen multiple times and days when nothing happens and it works fine.
I was just wondering if its time to buy a new router? The r6300 has been really good up until a few months ago, it was a good soldier maybe its on its last legs? Is there anything I can do to remedy this problem? If not is there any good router recommendations?
Sorry if i'm not being very clear, networking confuses the hell out of me, and this shit is frustrating, and it makes me feel so stupid.
Yep, worked like a charm, thanks for the note.
SMART reports that my HDD is bad. I had problems when I used it as the OS drive, now it's used for trash files and games and it seems fine more or less even if SMART still reports imminent drive failure. Could it be that the hardware itself is fine and it's a software related problem? Could a format or a checkdisk fix it?
Also, is it strange to have 512-byte sectors? Because my other HDD has 4096-byte sectors.
Also, is it strange to have 512-byte sectors? Because my other HDD has 4096-byte sectors.
VindictiveGnome
Member
Sorry I'm getting back to you so late. I sent back my PSU to Corsair before going on vacation. Installed the new one tonight and was able to play a whole match of Titanfall without my computer restarting. I'll do more testing tomorrow before I say it's 100% fixed, but it's looking good. I greatly appreciate your help lordfuzzybutt!
ipitydatfu
Member
my sister's pc is on the fritz and i have no idea whats going on. it randomly freezes, sometimes i shut down and it'll restart. i bought a new gfx card because it died a few months ago. now it cant even surf the internet
the most this pc was used for was steam, until i had my own computer.
i dont even know where to begin to troubleshoot
the most this pc was used for was steam, until i had my own computer.
i dont even know where to begin to troubleshoot
Cloggerdude
Member
Crap, of course I would find this thread after making my own. I knew we had to have one of these, but couldn't find it through search.
Basically, whenever I turn on my computer, it will go through its normal boot procedure, the loading Windows 7 icon animation will come up, and then, right when Windows would normally appear, my monitors go into power save mode. The computer itself doesn't turn off or anything like that though, just the monitors. Here is some additional information:
- This all started immediately after I moved my pc from one room to the next this past weekend. The computer wasn't dropped or anything and I can see no loose wires/connections.
- The computer boots perfectly into Safe mode. I am actually typing this on the computer now.
- I have tried disabling all Non-Windows Services and all Startup items using MSConfig, but it has no impact.
- I have removed/tested the following pieces of hardware to determine if they were the problem: DVD Drive, Graphics Card (AMD R290), Sound card (Asus Xonar DG), all secondary hard drives, primary drive (ran disk check), both sticks of RAM, different RAM slots, and the power supply.
- Have performed malware scan using Malwarebytes. No issues found and hadn't had any issues previously.
- I ordered a new power supply, as I was convinced that was the problem, but the problem still occurs.
- There is a clicking sound right when the monitors turn off, which I originally thought was the power supply. I later determined that it was the sound card, but removing the sound card has no effect. I assume that this is the amp on the card clicking on/off. Not sure if this helps with the problem, but figured I would mention it.
- I cannot boot into VGA mode. I've tried everything, but the only options I receive are to boot into Safe Mode, Safe Mode with Networking, etc...
- I am currently running one monitor on the integrated graphics card. The problem occurs both on the integrated and the external graphics cards.
- Components are as follows:
CPU: i7 2600k
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO
RAM: G-Skill Ripjaws X (F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM) x 2 - 8gigs total
Primary HD: OCZ Agility 3 SSD (firmware update has been performed)
I'm pretty much at my wits end here. I've tried everything I can possibly think of, short of replacing the entire motherboard. I would gladly do that if it would fix it, but I just cannot think of a reason as to why the motherboard would cause me not to be able to boot into windows. Especially when it will boot into safe mode just fine. If you guys need any other info to help figure this out, just let me know!
Basically, whenever I turn on my computer, it will go through its normal boot procedure, the loading Windows 7 icon animation will come up, and then, right when Windows would normally appear, my monitors go into power save mode. The computer itself doesn't turn off or anything like that though, just the monitors. Here is some additional information:
- This all started immediately after I moved my pc from one room to the next this past weekend. The computer wasn't dropped or anything and I can see no loose wires/connections.
- The computer boots perfectly into Safe mode. I am actually typing this on the computer now.
- I have tried disabling all Non-Windows Services and all Startup items using MSConfig, but it has no impact.
- I have removed/tested the following pieces of hardware to determine if they were the problem: DVD Drive, Graphics Card (AMD R290), Sound card (Asus Xonar DG), all secondary hard drives, primary drive (ran disk check), both sticks of RAM, different RAM slots, and the power supply.
- Have performed malware scan using Malwarebytes. No issues found and hadn't had any issues previously.
- I ordered a new power supply, as I was convinced that was the problem, but the problem still occurs.
- There is a clicking sound right when the monitors turn off, which I originally thought was the power supply. I later determined that it was the sound card, but removing the sound card has no effect. I assume that this is the amp on the card clicking on/off. Not sure if this helps with the problem, but figured I would mention it.
- I cannot boot into VGA mode. I've tried everything, but the only options I receive are to boot into Safe Mode, Safe Mode with Networking, etc...
- I am currently running one monitor on the integrated graphics card. The problem occurs both on the integrated and the external graphics cards.
- Components are as follows:
CPU: i7 2600k
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO
RAM: G-Skill Ripjaws X (F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM) x 2 - 8gigs total
Primary HD: OCZ Agility 3 SSD (firmware update has been performed)
I'm pretty much at my wits end here. I've tried everything I can possibly think of, short of replacing the entire motherboard. I would gladly do that if it would fix it, but I just cannot think of a reason as to why the motherboard would cause me not to be able to boot into windows. Especially when it will boot into safe mode just fine. If you guys need any other info to help figure this out, just let me know!
If safe mode is working, it makes me think there's an issue with your OS install. Could be system corruption or maybe some issue with a driver or something. Have you updated any drivers recently? Some other things to try: Run sfc /scannow to check for corruption in Windows. Also, check the event logs for errors. There could be something in there to help point to the problem.
If the system file check utility doesn't find anything, you could try booting to your Windows installation media (if you have it) and try a repair option there. To further rule out the hardware, you could try a fresh install of Windows on a spare HDD if you have one. A Linux live CD could even help rule out an issue with the hardware. If things are looking okay with your hardware, worst case - back up the essentials, reformat, and reinstall the OS.
Mitch
Banned
Hey TechSupportGAF. Will get right to my issue.
Computer hard resets while gaming. Abrupt shutdown and immediate restart. No error messages in the event viewer, nor does the program WhoCrashed show anything.
Hardware:
GTX 680 2GB
i7 3770k (with Corsair H100i cooler)
8GB RAM
Win 7 64 bit
GIGABYTE GA-H77N-WIFI Mini ITX Intel Motherboard
Samsung 840 EVO 500GB SSD
My current build is in a Corsair Obsidian 250D case, which is a mini ITX build.
I monitor my temperatures via HW Monitor, and set my GPU fan speed through MSI Afterburner. Under full load, the CPU hovers around 50-55c, and the GPU around 65-75c (65% fan speed). When running a burn-in test, the GPU will hit 84c.
From what I've read, this points to a PSU issue. The thing is, I never once experienced sudden crashes like this when my hardware was in a larger case (Antec 300 IIRC). I was also using the stock Intel cooler with the processor, since the H100i isn't compatible with my Antec case.
Previous setup:
Stock CPU cooler
Antec mid-tower case
New setup:
H100i cooler
2x MASSCOOL FD08025S1M4 80mm fans (1 in the front, and 1 in the back)
Corsair 250D mini-tower case
Put together this build in late 2012, and initially made the switch to the mini-tower in May of last year. Had the issue back then, which ultimately led me to move back to my larger case. Decided to try it out again, since I wanted to OC my processor while playing GTAV. Haven't bothered doing that yet, since it performs rather well already. The first 2-3 crashes happened while playing FFXIV, and the most recent while playing GTAV.
Computer hard resets while gaming. Abrupt shutdown and immediate restart. No error messages in the event viewer, nor does the program WhoCrashed show anything.
Hardware:
GTX 680 2GB
i7 3770k (with Corsair H100i cooler)
8GB RAM
Win 7 64 bit
GIGABYTE GA-H77N-WIFI Mini ITX Intel Motherboard
Samsung 840 EVO 500GB SSD
My current build is in a Corsair Obsidian 250D case, which is a mini ITX build.
I monitor my temperatures via HW Monitor, and set my GPU fan speed through MSI Afterburner. Under full load, the CPU hovers around 50-55c, and the GPU around 65-75c (65% fan speed). When running a burn-in test, the GPU will hit 84c.
From what I've read, this points to a PSU issue. The thing is, I never once experienced sudden crashes like this when my hardware was in a larger case (Antec 300 IIRC). I was also using the stock Intel cooler with the processor, since the H100i isn't compatible with my Antec case.
Previous setup:
Stock CPU cooler
Antec mid-tower case
New setup:
H100i cooler
2x MASSCOOL FD08025S1M4 80mm fans (1 in the front, and 1 in the back)
Corsair 250D mini-tower case
Put together this build in late 2012, and initially made the switch to the mini-tower in May of last year. Had the issue back then, which ultimately led me to move back to my larger case. Decided to try it out again, since I wanted to OC my processor while playing GTAV. Haven't bothered doing that yet, since it performs rather well already. The first 2-3 crashes happened while playing FFXIV, and the most recent while playing GTAV.
Cloggerdude
Member
Thanks for the reply. I went and ran sfc /scannow last night, but it completed successfully and reported no errors. I believe I did update my ATI drivers a week or so ago, but could that be causing the issue even when using the integrated graphics?
Actually, maybe that does have something to do with it. I guess I'll try uninstalling the AMD drivers when I get home tonight.
Cloggerdude
Member
Sorry for the double post, but here's my update, because I believe I've narrowed down the cause of the problem:
- After some googling, I downloaded "Display Driver Uninstaller", ran it in Safe Mode, and uninstalled all the AMD Drivers.
- At that point, the computer still wouldn't boot, so I ran the program again and uninstalled the Intel display drivers.
- Restarted the computer and, BAM, windows boots up! Overjoyed, I immediately install everything back in the computer, reboot, and install the AMD drivers. After installation, I reboot and....same problem. Acts like it's booting into Windows, but then monitor goes to sleep.
- Booted back into Safe Mode, uninstalled the AMD drivers, and computer boots just fine again. This time I went and grabbed the BETA drivers from AMD's website. Same problem.
- Repeat above process, but this time I grab older Drivers (14.9) from Guru3d. Install....same problem.
So now I'm sitting here, booted into Windows just fine, with the monitor hooked into my Graphics card (R9 290), but unable to install any kind of drivers. Is it possible that it is the Graphics Card that is messed up? Of course, it's hard for me to believe that's what the problem is, since I had the problem even when the card wasn't in the computer, but I have no clue what else it could be.
I mean, it would make sense to me that maybe the new drivers wouldn't be compatible with my system, but why the crap would older drivers not work either?
- After some googling, I downloaded "Display Driver Uninstaller", ran it in Safe Mode, and uninstalled all the AMD Drivers.
- At that point, the computer still wouldn't boot, so I ran the program again and uninstalled the Intel display drivers.
- Restarted the computer and, BAM, windows boots up! Overjoyed, I immediately install everything back in the computer, reboot, and install the AMD drivers. After installation, I reboot and....same problem. Acts like it's booting into Windows, but then monitor goes to sleep.
- Booted back into Safe Mode, uninstalled the AMD drivers, and computer boots just fine again. This time I went and grabbed the BETA drivers from AMD's website. Same problem.
- Repeat above process, but this time I grab older Drivers (14.9) from Guru3d. Install....same problem.
So now I'm sitting here, booted into Windows just fine, with the monitor hooked into my Graphics card (R9 290), but unable to install any kind of drivers. Is it possible that it is the Graphics Card that is messed up? Of course, it's hard for me to believe that's what the problem is, since I had the problem even when the card wasn't in the computer, but I have no clue what else it could be.
I mean, it would make sense to me that maybe the new drivers wouldn't be compatible with my system, but why the crap would older drivers not work either?
Hardware specs are a moving target. It's what makes old drivers old. It is to be expected that old drivers wouldn't work perfectly (or at all) with new hardware, since they were written when the hardware didn't exists.
Anyway, I see you temporarily ran on the Intel IGP. You say you re-installed everything, so presumably the Intel drivers as well as the AMD drivers after that? Did you try manually de-activating the Intel IGP in the BIOS before you installed the drivers for your AMD card?
Anyway, I see you temporarily ran on the Intel IGP. You say you re-installed everything, so presumably the Intel drivers as well as the AMD drivers after that? Did you try manually de-activating the Intel IGP in the BIOS before you installed the drivers for your AMD card?
Cloggerdude
Member
Tried what you said, but no luck. Uninstalled all AMD drivers again, went into BIOS and manually de-activated the Intel IGP, booted back into Windows, reinstalled the AMD drivers, and....same problem.
Also, when I say older drivers, I'm talking as in September/May of last year (2014). I know for a fact that the September drivers worked, since that's what I originally installed when I got the card.
I see.
It does sound like installing the drivers messed something up, but if a good scrubbing (getting rid of all traces of the drivers using external tools, like http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html) didn't get rid of the problem I'd format, or try CornDoggs other suggestions.
It does sound like installing the drivers messed something up, but if a good scrubbing (getting rid of all traces of the drivers using external tools, like http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html) didn't get rid of the problem I'd format, or try CornDoggs other suggestions.
Oracle Dragon
Member
If its the platters (that's pretty general, it could be many things, but generally mechanical) then normally the hard drive works but is very unreliable, PC can crash when using it as a boot drive, it can be really slow, or it can make grinding / ticking noises, etc..
However in your case, you mentioned the BIOS doesn't even show it at all. If you want to be extra thorough you can try plugging it in to a different PC, there is always a (small) chance it is the SATA port or power on the laptop... but, it sounds like it may be shot.
Dreams-Visions
Member
Hey guys I relocated my desktop PC and now my CPU fan keeps revving up secondary to the CPU getting hot. This was never a thing before moving the PC.
Any ideas on where to start? Do I need to look at reapplying thermal paste? Compressed air? Is it possible something got moved or disconnected that could be causing the high temps/fan reaction?
Any ideas on where to start? Do I need to look at reapplying thermal paste? Compressed air? Is it possible something got moved or disconnected that could be causing the high temps/fan reaction?
Oracle Dragon
Member
I have a wireless problem I'm trying to overcome... I have an older WAP54G that I set up on the top floor, as my router in the basement couldn't get the job done. I gave it the same SSID and put it on a different channel, and connected it to the basement router via a power over Ethernet adapter. Everything works and I get decent wireless access upstairs.
However here's where the problem comes in: Despite it being 54MBps G (as well as my phone), I seem to fluctuate between 8Mbps and 12Mbps on this connection. It shouldn't be the device, because I can take my phone to the downstairs router and get 48Mbps.
I thought it may have been interference from neighbours WiFi (I live in a townhome), so I put WiFi Analyser on my phone and started scanning. I used it to move my upstairs WAP to the best channel, but the problem remains. I flashed it to DD-WRT hoping to boost the antenna gain a bit, but it didn't make a difference.
Any advice on boosting the WiFi speed? It doesn't have to be earth shattering, I'm only using it to stream video to the phone, heck probably anything over 10Mbps is adequate. The problem is that the speed keeps bouncing around and when it drops below 10 the video hitches and sometimes it will even disconnect from Netflix or my CTV app saying that my network is too slow. I will go and buy a 5Gz router for upstairs if I need to (something cheap like the Linksys E2500), but I would prefer to avoid spending the extra cash at the current time.
However here's where the problem comes in: Despite it being 54MBps G (as well as my phone), I seem to fluctuate between 8Mbps and 12Mbps on this connection. It shouldn't be the device, because I can take my phone to the downstairs router and get 48Mbps.
I thought it may have been interference from neighbours WiFi (I live in a townhome), so I put WiFi Analyser on my phone and started scanning. I used it to move my upstairs WAP to the best channel, but the problem remains. I flashed it to DD-WRT hoping to boost the antenna gain a bit, but it didn't make a difference.
Any advice on boosting the WiFi speed? It doesn't have to be earth shattering, I'm only using it to stream video to the phone, heck probably anything over 10Mbps is adequate. The problem is that the speed keeps bouncing around and when it drops below 10 the video hitches and sometimes it will even disconnect from Netflix or my CTV app saying that my network is too slow. I will go and buy a 5Gz router for upstairs if I need to (something cheap like the Linksys E2500), but I would prefer to avoid spending the extra cash at the current time.
It's very possible that you just hear it better now or that the airflow is being restricted somehow, not within the case, but where the fans draw the air from or exhaust it to.
Dreams-Visions
Member
Nah, both the current room and the previous room are whisper-quiet. I now her a jet engine attempting lift off occasionally. Definitely new. I'm gonna pick up some compressed air. we'll see if that's it. if not, thermal paste will probably be my next move.
uncredited male
Member
It might also be possible you are not getting as much cool intake air as you were before you moved.
Dreams-Visions
Member
Just wanted to update on my hot CPU issue.
I went ahead and picked up some thermal paste and cleaning solution from a local PC parts store. Reapplied the thermal paste with some Artic Silver 5 (credit card spreading method). PC now idles ~17C lower than it was before, and maxes ~40C lower than before. She needed some new thermal paste. I also went through it with a can of compressed air, but there wasn't much dust.
Thanks for the help, boys!
I went ahead and picked up some thermal paste and cleaning solution from a local PC parts store. Reapplied the thermal paste with some Artic Silver 5 (credit card spreading method). PC now idles ~17C lower than it was before, and maxes ~40C lower than before. She needed some new thermal paste. I also went through it with a can of compressed air, but there wasn't much dust.
Thanks for the help, boys!
Exactly same problem on a notebook HP G-62. Intel Graphics and ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5470.
I already did everything you mention, before reading your post and i'm in the same place.
Only difference is after using Display Driver Uninstaller and installing old drivers I got some artifacts after 5 minutes of use, or bsod blaming atikmpag.sys if i plug an external monitor.
I'm going to format as soon as i have some free time.
Nice. Always good to hear back from people in support threads.
Femmeworth
Banned
Need some help, I think my router is damaged. There have been nasty storms here lately and a few days ago one killed the modem. The modem has been replaced through my ISP but I still can't get the router functional. It's an Asus WL-520GU running Tomato. The lights on it flash but it won't connect anything to the internet, and I can't access the firmware through browsers.
Could be just the power supply. I assume it's external, so if you have one that provides the same amperage and voltage (should be written somewhere on them) you could test it with that. The connectors shouldn't be a problem, but I don't know how standardized they are across the world.
MrToughPants
Brian Burke punched my mom
Last night I put my PC in sleep mode, the problem is it didn't go to sleep my PC was just in the logging off stage for a few minutes. So I manually hit the on/off button on my tower, I've done this before with no problems over the years. I start my PC and it wouldn't display anything. I shut it off again and ever since it just won't start period unless I hit memok button on the MB. When I hit memok it boots up with the memory is ok, press F1 to continue or go to bios splash page and after that everything is fine, pc runs normally. Any idea on what would cause this?
Schrade
Member
Go to the BIOS, load the "Optimized Defaults" option in the BIOS. If you installed Windows with SATA AHCI then make sure your SATA ports are set to AHCI mode. (You should have installed the OS with this on if you didn't)
Then make any other BIOS changes you normally do and then save the settings.
Reboot and let the system startup, Shutdown normally and then power it on again and see if you have that same issue.
Note: It's generally a good idea to Load Optimized Defaults in BIOSes so they can read the SPD on the RAM and set the timings to optimal settings.
For anyone on Windows 8.1, be wary of the Update KB3000850. It's the November rollup, so it's 700+ mb in size.
There are tons of reports of people getting a Black Screen once you reboot your PC: Basically, once you are past the login screen, you are welcomed to a screen without icons or wallpaper. You can move your mouse, but can't see anything else.
Solution: Uninstall the update KB3000850.
The conflict could be either on having old Graphic drivers, an old version of your AV (like Avast) or any software that modifies the way your screen behaves (including Classic shell,START8,Startisback).
If that happens to you, press CTRL+ALT+DEL and open the Task Manager. On the File menu, select "New Task (Run)" and in the new screen, put: Control Panel.
Under "Programs", pick "Uninstall a program" and on the left side, select "View installed updates". That should give you the list of all the Windows updates currently installed. Look for 3000850, uninstall it and reboot.
There are other more complex ways to fix it, including restoring an older version of the file /windows/system32/windows.ui.immersive.dll but rolling back the update is easier. Hope it helps.
There are tons of reports of people getting a Black Screen once you reboot your PC: Basically, once you are past the login screen, you are welcomed to a screen without icons or wallpaper. You can move your mouse, but can't see anything else.
Solution: Uninstall the update KB3000850.
The conflict could be either on having old Graphic drivers, an old version of your AV (like Avast) or any software that modifies the way your screen behaves (including Classic shell,START8,Startisback).
If that happens to you, press CTRL+ALT+DEL and open the Task Manager. On the File menu, select "New Task (Run)" and in the new screen, put: Control Panel.
Under "Programs", pick "Uninstall a program" and on the left side, select "View installed updates". That should give you the list of all the Windows updates currently installed. Look for 3000850, uninstall it and reboot.
There are other more complex ways to fix it, including restoring an older version of the file /windows/system32/windows.ui.immersive.dll but rolling back the update is easier. Hope it helps.
A.D. Skinner
Member
Small annoying thing I'm hoping someone can aid with.
When I use the media buttons on my KB for volume + or - it also raises and lowers the volume bar in Winamp, what gives?
When I use the media buttons on my KB for volume + or - it also raises and lowers the volume bar in Winamp, what gives?
diggmcbadass
Member
It's been ages since I've used Winamp, but I think there is an option to turn off media key volume control in the options somewhere.