I'm having some issues with my blackwidow keyboard. The 'S' 'N' and Space key work at the same time for a few mins then stop. These specific keys just randomly start and stop working. Every other key works perfectly. I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling drivers. I've also tried cleaning the keys. Any ideas?
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
R
Rösti
Unconfirmed Member
In a recent Windows 10 build (not sure which one), it appears the Microsoft Basic Render Driver was changed a bit. I used to be able to have a maximum screen resolution of 1600x1200 under the MBRD, but now the maximum is 1280x1024 for some reason. This driver is currently my only chance to play certain games but also enable certain settings in some games (like World of Warcraft).
Now I'm searching for a file called basicdisplay.inf to see if it may be possible to add a line to allow for more resolutions, but I have yet to find this file. The registry folder it points to I haven't got authorization to read. Any ideas on what to do?
Edit: Nevermind, I found the solution. It turns out I had the uncommon display options set to hide. Now I have many more resolutions to choose from.
Now I'm searching for a file called basicdisplay.inf to see if it may be possible to add a line to allow for more resolutions, but I have yet to find this file. The registry folder it points to I haven't got authorization to read. Any ideas on what to do?
Edit: Nevermind, I found the solution. It turns out I had the uncommon display options set to hide. Now I have many more resolutions to choose from.
GAF I recently had W8 reinstalled too my formerly W10 laptop after it crashed. I needed to reinstall chrome. When I try download Chrome or any Browser for that matter. it download and then at the bottom it says Run, Save and Open , etc. No matter how many times I click run, save and run or just save, the button is unresponsive. There is like a dotted line around an option when you click it. Basically I cannot run, open or save any downloaded files. Help Please. Enternet Explorer is killing me.
Freezasaurus
Member
Hey guys, I have a quick question. Over the past day or two, I noticed that when I clear my Firefox cache, it doesn't completely empty. It would go down to 138k, but that's it. And just now, it went up a bit to 142k. I can't seem to drop it below that for some reason.
There doesn't seem to be anything wrong otherwise, so I don't know if this is anything to be concerned about or just a glitch.
Edit: Okay, I think I might have fixed it. I just deleted the cache2 folder. Now it seems okay. What was weird before is that it was showing there were 15 entries in the disk cache, but when I clicked for it to show entries, nothing appeared.
There doesn't seem to be anything wrong otherwise, so I don't know if this is anything to be concerned about or just a glitch.
Edit: Okay, I think I might have fixed it. I just deleted the cache2 folder. Now it seems okay. What was weird before is that it was showing there were 15 entries in the disk cache, but when I clicked for it to show entries, nothing appeared.
ChawlieTheFair
pip pip cheerio you slags!
Ok so I'm a bit screwed and now my final solution is to post to places like reddit and GAF and see if anyone knows what the fuck is going on.
So to shorten up this story, because it's a lot: I bought a new, full tower computer case, and a new PSU and moved the innards of my previous case to the new one last week. Plug it in, everything comes on, fans working, can boot into bios, fantastic. So, after initial logo boot up, I get a message "Reboot and select proper boot device". I'll list in detail what happened later on in the post, but to keep this paragraph short, i'll skip ahead. So that happened, googled around and tried a bunch of different solutions. Anyway, I decide to just reinstall windows completely using my Win 8 disk. So when booting from the windows 8 disk, and trying to freshly install windows 8 on a completely formatted and wiped HDD, it simply won't let me, telling me windows can't be installed/can't find the appropriate partition, things to that effect. Skip ahead a lil bit, decide to buy a entirely fresh HDD from best buy. Hook it up, go into windows 8 CD, and despite this being a BRAND NEW HDD STRAIGHT OUT OF THE BOX, I get the same message.
^So that's the short story. The computer comes on, I can access the bios, I can see all the information and the normal peripherals listed there, but I can't install windows 8 to a brand new HDD, fresh out of the box, bought TODAY. I can only think that I fucked up something in the transfer of the parts, but if I did I wouldn't have a clue about how to narrow down what it could be.
Now here's a more explained version:
Win 10 64 bit (Win 8 64 Bit Installation CD)
HDD 2TB Seagate
Secondary HDD WD 500GB
8GB RAM
MSI Z77 GD65 Mobo BIOS Ver 10.11
i5 3570k
GTX 970(Possibly Broken gives Code 43 when PC previously worked)
So I bought a new case (HAF 932) from Newegg and a new PSU (EVGA 650 Watt), did a bit of dusting and switched all my parts over. Turn on, everything seems to be fine, get pass bios loading screen MSI thing, get the message "Reboot and Select Proper Boot Device". I thought ok, let's check the boot order. Get into bios, make sure Seagate 2TB is first on the list, save and reboot. Same message given again. I open up the computer and Noticed I've put the 2TB Seagate into port 2 whilst the 500GB was in Port 1. Switch them around, hoping it will fix it. Nope. Go through the boot order and disable everything except the 2TB Seagate. Also doesn't work, same message. Take out the CMOS battery, put it back in, then hold down the power button to discharge(google suggestion). Reboot, same issue. Throw in my original Windows 8 installation CD, with the intention of doing a repair. The repairs "couldn't be made". Try Using the Refresh option, get given the message "The Drive where Windows is installed is locked Unlock the drive and try again. I try every other option on the Installation CD, none of them function. I try to follow a youtube tutorial where one of the steps in the command prompt was "create partition efi" or something to that effect after disk check, and I got the message along the lines of "Your drive must first be converted to GPT". I stopped there as these are all things fairly out of my experience range and I don't want to cock things up further by doing something wrong in the command prompt.
So, at this point I decided to just reinstall Windows 8, but I wanna keep my main 2TB seagate and maybe get the data off it later if possible, so I unhook it and decide to wipe the 500GB WD secondary. Put in the Win 8 CD. Now, neither remove all files/transfer files options work. Using the command prompt and google suggestions, I wipe/delete/format the drive, getting it into totally unallocated space (it is listed by the Windows CD and the Command prompt as such). It STILL will not let me install. So using more google tutorials, I manually set up the partitions and such. The HDD itself is listed as "healthy" in the Command Prompt. It STILL won't let me install, giving me the same error messages. At this point I figured I must have just corrupted the harddrives some how, go out to best buy, and just get a WD 1TB HDD for like $50. Come home, hook it up, a brand new HDD out of the box, and I get the exact same error message.
SO, after all that, does anyone have a licking idea of what I have fucked up on? It is possible I have short circuited/static shocked something?
My next steps (later on, fairly frustrated right now) is to remove the GTX 970. I had assumed it was a windows 10 glitch that didn't allow it function, but I suppose it could itself be faulty. I also have some different sets of RAM, though I'm not sure they're compatible with my board but I think they are. I bought some new CMOS batteries and plan to try that first, though I don't expect it to work.
Now, in the transfer to the new case I did a bunch of dusting and reapplies thermal paste to the CPU. In case that matters.
And finally as it currently stands:
SPECS:
NZXT Gamma Case (Now HAF 932)
Win 10 64 Bit (free updated originally from Win 8.1, which was updated from Win 8)
8GB Crucial RAM
MSI Z77 GD65 Bios Ver 10.11 (up to date)
i5 3570k currently at default clock ( was at OC of 4.5ghz but defaulted bios when trying to fix Code 43 on the GTX 970)
GTX 970 (which was being listed by Win 10, but had a code 43 error, could get no video signal from it)
XFX 650 Watt PSU NON-Modular (Now a Modular EVGA 650 Watt)
So to shorten up this story, because it's a lot: I bought a new, full tower computer case, and a new PSU and moved the innards of my previous case to the new one last week. Plug it in, everything comes on, fans working, can boot into bios, fantastic. So, after initial logo boot up, I get a message "Reboot and select proper boot device". I'll list in detail what happened later on in the post, but to keep this paragraph short, i'll skip ahead. So that happened, googled around and tried a bunch of different solutions. Anyway, I decide to just reinstall windows completely using my Win 8 disk. So when booting from the windows 8 disk, and trying to freshly install windows 8 on a completely formatted and wiped HDD, it simply won't let me, telling me windows can't be installed/can't find the appropriate partition, things to that effect. Skip ahead a lil bit, decide to buy a entirely fresh HDD from best buy. Hook it up, go into windows 8 CD, and despite this being a BRAND NEW HDD STRAIGHT OUT OF THE BOX, I get the same message.
^So that's the short story. The computer comes on, I can access the bios, I can see all the information and the normal peripherals listed there, but I can't install windows 8 to a brand new HDD, fresh out of the box, bought TODAY. I can only think that I fucked up something in the transfer of the parts, but if I did I wouldn't have a clue about how to narrow down what it could be.
Now here's a more explained version:
Win 10 64 bit (Win 8 64 Bit Installation CD)
HDD 2TB Seagate
Secondary HDD WD 500GB
8GB RAM
MSI Z77 GD65 Mobo BIOS Ver 10.11
i5 3570k
GTX 970(Possibly Broken gives Code 43 when PC previously worked)
So I bought a new case (HAF 932) from Newegg and a new PSU (EVGA 650 Watt), did a bit of dusting and switched all my parts over. Turn on, everything seems to be fine, get pass bios loading screen MSI thing, get the message "Reboot and Select Proper Boot Device". I thought ok, let's check the boot order. Get into bios, make sure Seagate 2TB is first on the list, save and reboot. Same message given again. I open up the computer and Noticed I've put the 2TB Seagate into port 2 whilst the 500GB was in Port 1. Switch them around, hoping it will fix it. Nope. Go through the boot order and disable everything except the 2TB Seagate. Also doesn't work, same message. Take out the CMOS battery, put it back in, then hold down the power button to discharge(google suggestion). Reboot, same issue. Throw in my original Windows 8 installation CD, with the intention of doing a repair. The repairs "couldn't be made". Try Using the Refresh option, get given the message "The Drive where Windows is installed is locked Unlock the drive and try again. I try every other option on the Installation CD, none of them function. I try to follow a youtube tutorial where one of the steps in the command prompt was "create partition efi" or something to that effect after disk check, and I got the message along the lines of "Your drive must first be converted to GPT". I stopped there as these are all things fairly out of my experience range and I don't want to cock things up further by doing something wrong in the command prompt.
So, at this point I decided to just reinstall Windows 8, but I wanna keep my main 2TB seagate and maybe get the data off it later if possible, so I unhook it and decide to wipe the 500GB WD secondary. Put in the Win 8 CD. Now, neither remove all files/transfer files options work. Using the command prompt and google suggestions, I wipe/delete/format the drive, getting it into totally unallocated space (it is listed by the Windows CD and the Command prompt as such). It STILL will not let me install. So using more google tutorials, I manually set up the partitions and such. The HDD itself is listed as "healthy" in the Command Prompt. It STILL won't let me install, giving me the same error messages. At this point I figured I must have just corrupted the harddrives some how, go out to best buy, and just get a WD 1TB HDD for like $50. Come home, hook it up, a brand new HDD out of the box, and I get the exact same error message.
SO, after all that, does anyone have a licking idea of what I have fucked up on? It is possible I have short circuited/static shocked something?
My next steps (later on, fairly frustrated right now) is to remove the GTX 970. I had assumed it was a windows 10 glitch that didn't allow it function, but I suppose it could itself be faulty. I also have some different sets of RAM, though I'm not sure they're compatible with my board but I think they are. I bought some new CMOS batteries and plan to try that first, though I don't expect it to work.
Now, in the transfer to the new case I did a bunch of dusting and reapplies thermal paste to the CPU. In case that matters.
And finally as it currently stands:
SPECS:
NZXT Gamma Case (Now HAF 932)
Win 10 64 Bit (free updated originally from Win 8.1, which was updated from Win 8)
8GB Crucial RAM
MSI Z77 GD65 Bios Ver 10.11 (up to date)
i5 3570k currently at default clock ( was at OC of 4.5ghz but defaulted bios when trying to fix Code 43 on the GTX 970)
GTX 970 (which was being listed by Win 10, but had a code 43 error, could get no video signal from it)
XFX 650 Watt PSU NON-Modular (Now a Modular EVGA 650 Watt)
Zepp Twofist
Member
I didn't read all of your post, but 2 things stand out to me. HDDs not working and GFX cards giving an error. On a modular PSU, it is possible to plug the power cables for PCI (gfx card) and HDD into the wrong connectors, something that will fry your harddrive motor and not provide enough power for your graphics card.
I think I'm about to finally take the free Windows 10 upgrade before the offer is gone for a few key reasons(I was planning on keeping 7 but what finally pushed me over the edge is all the Anywhere games that are only going to be playable on Xbox and W10).
I just have a small question, is there anything I should know before I upgrade? Anything I need to do to prepare before I leave Windows 7 forever? Precautions or anything like that? I assume all my files and programs will be fine but if there's anything else to know about before I upgrade I'd love some tips and information about it.
I just have a small question, is there anything I should know before I upgrade? Anything I need to do to prepare before I leave Windows 7 forever? Precautions or anything like that? I assume all my files and programs will be fine but if there's anything else to know about before I upgrade I'd love some tips and information about it.
Zepp Twofist
Member
Not really. There used to be a rollback feature in case something went wrong. I hope it is still in there.
ChawlieTheFair
pip pip cheerio you slags!
Nah the GFX card was buggered before, it was an RMA that I guess they didn't fix properly or is just clashing with something on my end.
Anyway, in case I can save anyone the headache. Couldn't get into my original HDD, but on the new HDD, what fixed me being able to install windows is first flicking it's boot mode to IDE, letting windows load up, then rebooting, flicking boot mode BACK to ACHI, and THEN it worked. Don't know why, but it did. Thank god this is over, and now I gotta find a way to transfer my data to the new HDD.
Don't know if it was posted but lately I've been getting a bunch of seemingly random ads popping up in Chrome pretending to the link I clicked on. Did tons of various virus scans, malware scans, etc, only to find nothing. I disabled all my extensions in Chrome and enabled them one by one and found the culprit:
Imgur Uploader
It says the author deleted the extension but it was still functional despite that. Just an FYI if anyone else is getting a headache from the same problem.
Imgur Uploader
It says the author deleted the extension but it was still functional despite that. Just an FYI if anyone else is getting a headache from the same problem.
D
Deleted member 245925
Unconfirmed Member
*Update*: New PSU seems to have fixed my issues. PSUs are a mystery to me. 
Thanks again.
My new PC (specs below) instantly shuts down if my GPU is under moderate to heavy load without any bluescreen or whatsoever. The event log shows kernel power 41 (63) critical event, which basically only tells you the PC was not properly shut down. Since there are no BSOD, there are also no dumps etc.
PC specs:
Mainboard: Asus ROG Maximus VIII Impact Z170 MiniITX (latest BIOS)
CPU: Intel i7 6700k (not OC so far)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 2400MHz CL14
SSD: Samsung Evo 850 1TB
GPU: Asus Strix Geforce 970 (from old PC, latest driver)
PSU: be quiet! STRAIGHT POWER CM E9 480W (from old PC)
I can reproduce the shutdown by starting Furmark, which will instantly shut down the PC. I have also experienced shut downs after 15 minutes or so in Overwatch, but I had no issues so far in Rocket League. I also tried Witcher 3, where it gets interesting. If I run my RAM with the XMP profile (2400 MHz), the PC shuts off after a few minutes. If I disable XMP (2133 MHz), it shuts off a few seconds after getting ingame. Furmark shuts it down instantly, regardless of XMP setting. Temperatures don't seem to be an issue (max GPU: 75°C, CPU 100% load in Prime95: 75°C, gaming: 40°C).
Since it is such a generic error, there are tons of posts online about people with the same issue and lots of possible solutions. So far I have tried:
- RAM: memtest86+ for a few hours, no issues
- RAM: Tested both sticks separately in each slot, doesn't make a difference
- CPU: Prime95 for an hour, no issues
- CPU: removed 970 and ran Furmark on internal GPU, no issues
- GPU/PSU: Installed both back into my old PC and ran Furmark, no issues
- GPU: Tried older drivers, issue remained (old PC also had newest drivers)
- Other: Uninstalled Asus/Realtek audio drivers and software, issue remained (fixed it for some people apparently)
- Other: Plugged my PC into a different outlet in my appartment (some people suggested general power issues, I know the power grid in my appartment is old and sucks, had issues before)
A lot of people with this issue point to the PSU. But since it works fine in my old PC, which draws more power than the new one, I can't really imagine it being a problem. Could it be that my new mainboard is more sensitive to power issues resulting from the outlet/PSU and therefore shuts down while the old one (ASRock Z68 Pro3) didn't have any issues with that? Would it make sense to flash an older BIOS version? All power related settings are on default.
I'm pretty much out of ideas on what I could further try to fix this other than buying a new PSU to see if that fixes it, but I'm not confident it will, since the current one works fine in my old PC. Does anyone have any further suggestions on what I could try? Thanks.
Thanks again.My new PC (specs below) instantly shuts down if my GPU is under moderate to heavy load without any bluescreen or whatsoever. The event log shows kernel power 41 (63) critical event, which basically only tells you the PC was not properly shut down. Since there are no BSOD, there are also no dumps etc.
PC specs:
Mainboard: Asus ROG Maximus VIII Impact Z170 MiniITX (latest BIOS)
CPU: Intel i7 6700k (not OC so far)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 2400MHz CL14
SSD: Samsung Evo 850 1TB
GPU: Asus Strix Geforce 970 (from old PC, latest driver)
PSU: be quiet! STRAIGHT POWER CM E9 480W (from old PC)
I can reproduce the shutdown by starting Furmark, which will instantly shut down the PC. I have also experienced shut downs after 15 minutes or so in Overwatch, but I had no issues so far in Rocket League. I also tried Witcher 3, where it gets interesting. If I run my RAM with the XMP profile (2400 MHz), the PC shuts off after a few minutes. If I disable XMP (2133 MHz), it shuts off a few seconds after getting ingame. Furmark shuts it down instantly, regardless of XMP setting. Temperatures don't seem to be an issue (max GPU: 75°C, CPU 100% load in Prime95: 75°C, gaming: 40°C).
Since it is such a generic error, there are tons of posts online about people with the same issue and lots of possible solutions. So far I have tried:
- RAM: memtest86+ for a few hours, no issues
- RAM: Tested both sticks separately in each slot, doesn't make a difference
- CPU: Prime95 for an hour, no issues
- CPU: removed 970 and ran Furmark on internal GPU, no issues
- GPU/PSU: Installed both back into my old PC and ran Furmark, no issues
- GPU: Tried older drivers, issue remained (old PC also had newest drivers)
- Other: Uninstalled Asus/Realtek audio drivers and software, issue remained (fixed it for some people apparently)
- Other: Plugged my PC into a different outlet in my appartment (some people suggested general power issues, I know the power grid in my appartment is old and sucks, had issues before)
A lot of people with this issue point to the PSU. But since it works fine in my old PC, which draws more power than the new one, I can't really imagine it being a problem. Could it be that my new mainboard is more sensitive to power issues resulting from the outlet/PSU and therefore shuts down while the old one (ASRock Z68 Pro3) didn't have any issues with that? Would it make sense to flash an older BIOS version? All power related settings are on default.
I'm pretty much out of ideas on what I could further try to fix this other than buying a new PSU to see if that fixes it, but I'm not confident it will, since the current one works fine in my old PC. Does anyone have any further suggestions on what I could try? Thanks.
SJRB
Gold Member
Bought a brand new laptop, comes with Windows 10. My mission was to dualboot with Linux but the UEFI pretty much prohibits dualbooting [already disabled CSM and all that in the BIOS, didn't help]. After an entire weekend of messing around I basically gave up and installed Linux through a Virtualbox. But because of the limited resources it runs way too slow.
Now I don't particularly care about Windows 10, it's riddled with bloatware [seriously, like you wouldn't believe how much garbage is on this laptop] and I'm just using the laptop to browse and mess around a bit.
Are there any mayor issues with just installing Ubuntu as primary OS and completely deleting Windows 10?
Now I don't particularly care about Windows 10, it's riddled with bloatware [seriously, like you wouldn't believe how much garbage is on this laptop] and I'm just using the laptop to browse and mess around a bit.
Are there any mayor issues with just installing Ubuntu as primary OS and completely deleting Windows 10?
I had a very similar issue a while ago, my PC would just turn off completely during certain applications, like 3DMark Ice Storm or MGS V.
Ended up being the PSU, which was a 6 year old Corsair 850W. RMA'd it and got an HX850i and no issues since.
mrmisterwaa
Neo Member
Honestly? It's probably the PSU.
If it only happening during moderate / heavy load - it is because you are reaching the upper limit of that cap.
Beside gaming (and still)? Or very specific software?
If you can, I'd try a Live USB/CD distribution to be sure that all hardware is properly supported, but beside this, I really think it's a valid replacement now. I'm not that fond of Ubuntu, but that's a personal feeling... I still have a Seven on my laptop, but all my desktop computers run single-boot Debians now.
That's assuming you know Linux a bit, but I guess it's the case...
(and hell, I hate UEFI limitations and hardware tatoos...)
D
Deleted member 245925
Unconfirmed Member
Yeah, I've already ordered a new PSU to check if that's the issue, I hope that's it.
The thing is, my PSU works fine in my old PC under heavy load and that PC actually draws more power than my new one. That's the odd thing and why I questioned the PSU being the culprit in the first place. Guess I'll find out on Tuesday when the new PSU arrives.
Thanks for the respones.
*Update*: New PSU seems to have fixed my issues. PSUs are a mystery to me.
Thanks again.
D
Deleted member 12837
Unconfirmed Member
I couldn't find a separate thread for home networking-related questions, so I'm hoping this is the right place to ask this:
I just got Google Fiber (yay!). However, the only hookup for their box is tucked away deep in a closet that's essentially the worst spot in the entire apartment for a wi-fi signal to be broadcasting from. Luckily for me, the apartment has a few ethernet wall outlets, and they hardwired the box to those when they came to set everything up.
The living room is the best spot in the apartment to set up a wireless access point. I also need a few ethernet ports to hardwire things to (my HTPC, NAS, etc). The way I see it, I have 2 options:
1) Buy a switch to expand the # of wired ports I can connect to, and a wireless AP for wi-fi throughout the apartment
2) Set up my existing Netgear WNDR3700 router in "AP mode" to act as both a wireless access point and a switch, but leaving the DHCP and other router functions to the Google box to avoid a double NAT situation.
Choice #1 is more expensive, but gives me a bit more flexibility (can separate the wireless AP and switch to separate locations if needed). I'm also not sure how easy it is to configure the WNDR3700 the way I'd need to.
Thoughts? If I do decide to go with #1, any suggestions for what brand/model of switch and wireless AP to purchase? Would either option make it more or less difficult for me to stream things remotely from outside of the network in the future if I decide I want to do so (gaming, media, etc)?
I just got Google Fiber (yay!). However, the only hookup for their box is tucked away deep in a closet that's essentially the worst spot in the entire apartment for a wi-fi signal to be broadcasting from. Luckily for me, the apartment has a few ethernet wall outlets, and they hardwired the box to those when they came to set everything up.
The living room is the best spot in the apartment to set up a wireless access point. I also need a few ethernet ports to hardwire things to (my HTPC, NAS, etc). The way I see it, I have 2 options:
1) Buy a switch to expand the # of wired ports I can connect to, and a wireless AP for wi-fi throughout the apartment
2) Set up my existing Netgear WNDR3700 router in "AP mode" to act as both a wireless access point and a switch, but leaving the DHCP and other router functions to the Google box to avoid a double NAT situation.
Choice #1 is more expensive, but gives me a bit more flexibility (can separate the wireless AP and switch to separate locations if needed). I'm also not sure how easy it is to configure the WNDR3700 the way I'd need to.
Thoughts? If I do decide to go with #1, any suggestions for what brand/model of switch and wireless AP to purchase? Would either option make it more or less difficult for me to stream things remotely from outside of the network in the future if I decide I want to do so (gaming, media, etc)?
adamsapple
Or is it just one of Phil's balls in my throat?
This is not really a tech support question, but i'm hoping the tech experts here can assist me.
I'm planning to do various certifications to increase my job scope, starting with the basic CompTIA A+ certs, for those who've done them, will the videos on Professor Messors website (http://www.professormesser.com/) be enough for preparation or would I need to rent some books as well ?
I'm planning to do various certifications to increase my job scope, starting with the basic CompTIA A+ certs, for those who've done them, will the videos on Professor Messors website (http://www.professormesser.com/) be enough for preparation or would I need to rent some books as well ?
D
Deleted member 245925
Unconfirmed Member
New PSU seems to have fixed my issues. PSUs are a mystery to me.
Thanks again.Since you have reused your SSD and it's not clear from the post, did you do a fresh install of Windows? Your issues seem more software/driver related than hardware related to me. If you didn't do a fresh install, maybe there are some conflicts with old drivers? You could try running Display Driver Uninstaller (DDU) to completely remove your GPU drivers and then reinstall them. I don't have any other ideas, sorry.
Hey guys,
So I started playing around a bit with Downsampling in games. I have a dual monitor setup which means that everytime that my main monitor changes resolution (ie: everything I boot up or exit a downsampled game) all the windows on my second screen move around and goes to weird places.
Is there any ways, in Windows 10, to kind of "lockdown" windows position so that they don't move around everytime my main screen changes resolution?
So I started playing around a bit with Downsampling in games. I have a dual monitor setup which means that everytime that my main monitor changes resolution (ie: everything I boot up or exit a downsampled game) all the windows on my second screen move around and goes to weird places.
Is there any ways, in Windows 10, to kind of "lockdown" windows position so that they don't move around everytime my main screen changes resolution?
I've had this problem for I think about two years now.
Initially I thought the problem was my laptop's screen just getting black so it was dead. Then I noticed it wasn't a permanent problem because it went back on. But it started to happen more often and often. Then I noticed that it wasn't all black and I could still see something very dark in the background. So I went to the local PC fixer here.
I was already afraid that the screen would just work while it was there and that my problem wasn't fixed so I told them in advance very clear what my problem was. Fixer said, yea you gonna need a new screen for that. Gonna cost you €190,-. Said yolo, do it. Came back to collect it a week later, just before I had a lan party with friends.
But just that same evening I already had my screenlight dimming and had to connect it to a tv to continue playing. So I was scammed (the probably just saw it working and did nothing at all), but I already managed to lose the receipts within hours, so there wasn't really anything I could do about that.
Anyways, did some more research and found out it are my backlight inverters and I looked about replacing them. People saying it's easy on most laptops, but not on all and I'm afraid my laptop is one of those where it isn't easy. I already opened my screen myself and I didn't really know where to look so before doing any permanent damage to still working parts I gave up.
I have a Samsung NP300E5A. I guess my question is if one of you guys know it's an easy fix? Because I still really like my laptop.
Initially I thought the problem was my laptop's screen just getting black so it was dead. Then I noticed it wasn't a permanent problem because it went back on. But it started to happen more often and often. Then I noticed that it wasn't all black and I could still see something very dark in the background. So I went to the local PC fixer here.
I was already afraid that the screen would just work while it was there and that my problem wasn't fixed so I told them in advance very clear what my problem was. Fixer said, yea you gonna need a new screen for that. Gonna cost you €190,-. Said yolo, do it. Came back to collect it a week later, just before I had a lan party with friends.
But just that same evening I already had my screenlight dimming and had to connect it to a tv to continue playing. So I was scammed (the probably just saw it working and did nothing at all), but I already managed to lose the receipts within hours, so there wasn't really anything I could do about that.
Anyways, did some more research and found out it are my backlight inverters and I looked about replacing them. People saying it's easy on most laptops, but not on all and I'm afraid my laptop is one of those where it isn't easy. I already opened my screen myself and I didn't really know where to look so before doing any permanent damage to still working parts I gave up.
I have a Samsung NP300E5A. I guess my question is if one of you guys know it's an easy fix? Because I still really like my laptop.
Patrick Young
Member
Inverters became integrated with the displays (or the other end of the LVDS cable?) themselves for a lot of models over the years so that might not be an option.
If it's seperate, should be easy. I'm expecting just to remove the display bezel and it'll be below the screen, between the hinges.
Test the display before you put it back together.
The cable that connects to the screen might be the thing that's faulty.
If it's seperate, should be easy. I'm expecting just to remove the display bezel and it'll be below the screen, between the hinges.
Test the display before you put it back together.
The cable that connects to the screen might be the thing that's faulty.
Thanks. I've had my screen open but I don't know how my backlight inverters would look so I gave up kinda quick.
I do think the problem are my backlight inverters because I have all the similar issues other people have with it. When the brightness is higher they have to work harder so they get warm and shut down quicker. Because since I know that I always use the lowest possible brightness and I get more uptime from my screen now.
I hoped somebody would know how the backlighters on my model of laptop could be replaced. If it was possible. It's a relatively old laptop I guess, so maybe they aren't integrated with the screen yet.
I do think the problem are my backlight inverters because I have all the similar issues other people have with it. When the brightness is higher they have to work harder so they get warm and shut down quicker. Because since I know that I always use the lowest possible brightness and I get more uptime from my screen now.
I hoped somebody would know how the backlighters on my model of laptop could be replaced. If it was possible. It's a relatively old laptop I guess, so maybe they aren't integrated with the screen yet.
Can you have one video card driving a monitor, while another video card does the graphics processing?
Basically I want to have my monitor plugged into my 970, but have the gtx 1080 doing the graphics processing (not SLI obviously)
I just got a new Gtx 1080 replacing the 970. There is a widespread problem detailed here that affects me I am stuck at 60hz refresh on my 120hz monitor on the gtx 1080. https://forums.geforce.com/default/...-correctly-past-330-mhz-dl-dvi-pixel-clock/1/ .
So I want to use the GTX 970 to plug my monitor into to get around this problem but still get the advantages of the GTX 1080 processing power.
Basically I want to have my monitor plugged into my 970, but have the gtx 1080 doing the graphics processing (not SLI obviously)
I just got a new Gtx 1080 replacing the 970. There is a widespread problem detailed here that affects me I am stuck at 60hz refresh on my 120hz monitor on the gtx 1080. https://forums.geforce.com/default/...-correctly-past-330-mhz-dl-dvi-pixel-clock/1/ .
So I want to use the GTX 970 to plug my monitor into to get around this problem but still get the advantages of the GTX 1080 processing power.
CelticKnight
Member
No idea if anyone will be able to help, but it's worth a shot anyway.
The speakers on my PC work fine, they're plugged into the 3.5 (on-board audio) jack on the rear panel. On the side of the right-side speaker itself is a headphone socket but when ever I plug headphones in I get a constant "hissing" sound that isn't present when using just the speakers. And if I turn the speakers off while the headphones are still plugged in, I still get the hissing. I still get it when the PC itself is turned off.
Any idea where the problem is?
The speakers on my PC work fine, they're plugged into the 3.5 (on-board audio) jack on the rear panel. On the side of the right-side speaker itself is a headphone socket but when ever I plug headphones in I get a constant "hissing" sound that isn't present when using just the speakers. And if I turn the speakers off while the headphones are still plugged in, I still get the hissing. I still get it when the PC itself is turned off.
Any idea where the problem is?
Melhisedek
Member
I have a Samsung Evo SSD 500GB and 2 Seagate HDD in my PC.
Thing is sometimes it takes ages to open a file or "This Pc" icon. I can understand the 2 HDDs but right now I wanted to open a picture from the SSD (on Desktop). I got the window of "Foto" app and than I waited for at least 2-3 seconds before png loaded. It is less than 600 Kb byw. I could hear the mechanical drives spinning up as well although the file was on the SSD. If I try it right now it opens instantly
Any ides on what is causing this?
Win 10
3570k @ 4.4 GHz
16 GB RAM
GTX 770
Thing is sometimes it takes ages to open a file or "This Pc" icon. I can understand the 2 HDDs but right now I wanted to open a picture from the SSD (on Desktop). I got the window of "Foto" app and than I waited for at least 2-3 seconds before png loaded. It is less than 600 Kb byw. I could hear the mechanical drives spinning up as well although the file was on the SSD. If I try it right now it opens instantly
Any ides on what is causing this?
Win 10
3570k @ 4.4 GHz
16 GB RAM
GTX 770
D
Deleted member 245925
Unconfirmed Member
I had the same issue with Notepad++. I guess both programs not only open the requested file but also check for available drives or something like that and therefore all drives in your PC have to spin up if they are in standby. I don't know a solution other than preventing HDDs from going into standby in the first place by adjusting the energy options in Windows. My new PC doesn't have HDDs anymore so that solved the issue I guess.
Melhisedek
Member
Is there any negatives about not allowing disks to turn off? I mean running them all the time?
D
Deleted member 245925
Unconfirmed Member
Well, they'll need slightly more power if they are permanently running. Other than that, their life expectancy may be reduced, but other people suggest that a lot of hard disk failures stem from spinning up.
Kibbles
Member
I have some adware/malware/whatever the hell on Chrome that is constantly opening pop-up ads when I click any link. Yes I've tried reset settings in Chrome, still happens. I've done a full scan with Adwcleaner and MalwareBytes and it still happens. It's driving me nuts. Any other good programs for this? I notice the url nsl.mapticket.net pop up sometimes before it redirects to a page. But googling only gets me to fake pre-written pages just telling me to do all of what I already did as stated above.
Zepp Twofist
Member
They consume more power, and that is more or less the only noticeable thing. If they fail faster or sooner on either setting isn't really a big issue, since the drive will last for 3-4+ years regardless. If it fails sooner than that it would most likely have done so anyway.
Viruz
Member
First thing I'll do is uninstall all the 'legit' extensions, then try a full scan with herdProtect
http://www.herdprotect.com/downloads.aspx
You also can schedule a daily scan.
Polioliolio
Member
For the last few weeks, in Opera browser, I can no longer fullscreen youtube videos...
Actually, I can fullscreen it with the fullscreen button, but then it says, in the youtube window on the lower right 'fullscreen is unavailable, learn more'.. It's allowed in Opera's exceptions, I've downloaded the latest Opera and Flash, and it's still giving me this issue. So it'll be fullscreen, but the controls and the line showing where the video currently is playing, won't go off the screen.
I don't understand it. Anyone else having the issue?
edit: It actually says at the top "Youtube.com is now fullscreen" but the youtube player suggests it's not fullscreen.. I feel like it's a youtube issue.
Actually, I can fullscreen it with the fullscreen button, but then it says, in the youtube window on the lower right 'fullscreen is unavailable, learn more'.. It's allowed in Opera's exceptions, I've downloaded the latest Opera and Flash, and it's still giving me this issue. So it'll be fullscreen, but the controls and the line showing where the video currently is playing, won't go off the screen.
I don't understand it. Anyone else having the issue?
edit: It actually says at the top "Youtube.com is now fullscreen" but the youtube player suggests it's not fullscreen.. I feel like it's a youtube issue.
Massingberd
Member
Two questions, any help is gratefully received.
I've just updated to Windows 10 64-bit. After the Bios screen I'm now gettng a message saying Realtek LAN cable isn't connected, press F1 to continue. Boot up process then goes fine. I've seen some advice online saying to update the Realtek PCIE GBE family controller drivers, but when I'm trying to do this through Device Manager, Windows is saying that my drivers are up to date and won't install the new drivers. How can I get round this?
Second issue is that I've got two external USB HDDs. This is causing a delay on the initial bios screen of about 30 or 40 seconds. When removing them, the boot up time is far quicker. Again, how can I get round this?
I've just updated to Windows 10 64-bit. After the Bios screen I'm now gettng a message saying Realtek LAN cable isn't connected, press F1 to continue. Boot up process then goes fine. I've seen some advice online saying to update the Realtek PCIE GBE family controller drivers, but when I'm trying to do this through Device Manager, Windows is saying that my drivers are up to date and won't install the new drivers. How can I get round this?
Second issue is that I've got two external USB HDDs. This is causing a delay on the initial bios screen of about 30 or 40 seconds. When removing them, the boot up time is far quicker. Again, how can I get round this?
Go to your mobo's product page and get the drivers there.
I can only assume that your BIOS is trying to find a bootable partition on those externals. If they're mechanical, it has to wait for them to spin up.
Check your boot order in your BIOS. If the USB/external devices is checked and/or has higher priority than your system drive, move it below, or untick it.
Jane Mansfield
Banned
Anyone have experience on upgrading Windows Vista?
So I'm FINALLY going to upgrade my Windows Vista to Windows 7 (and if possible, upgrade to Windows 10 for free) on my HP Pavilion a1700n desktop. I did the Windows 7 Upgrade Adviser, and it says I need Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit DVD.
I'm looking at W7 products on Amazon and Ebay, and I see there are 2 versions for the software: one that is intended "for refurbished PC installation" ($50) and one in "new packaging" ($120).
Can anyone explain what "for refurbished PC installation" means, and should I buy that one?
And before I upgrade, is there any specific and important instructions on doing the clean installation on my computer? I already have an external drive and lots of blank DVD-R CD's just in case.
So I'm FINALLY going to upgrade my Windows Vista to Windows 7 (and if possible, upgrade to Windows 10 for free) on my HP Pavilion a1700n desktop. I did the Windows 7 Upgrade Adviser, and it says I need Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit DVD.
I'm looking at W7 products on Amazon and Ebay, and I see there are 2 versions for the software: one that is intended "for refurbished PC installation" ($50) and one in "new packaging" ($120).
Can anyone explain what "for refurbished PC installation" means, and should I buy that one?
And before I upgrade, is there any specific and important instructions on doing the clean installation on my computer? I already have an external drive and lots of blank DVD-R CD's just in case.
Hours Left
Member
Having a weird problem with Windows 10.
Any time I right click a file, the right click menu won't appear (the context menu I think it's called?) and I'll just see the little loading icon indefinitely until it crashes, or if I end the task with Task Manager. I can still right click on empty space and see that pop-up menu, and I can still right click links and pictures when browsing the internet, but any actual files on my computer, it doesn't work. For example, I can save a picture to my desktop, but if I then try to right click that picture to rename it, the context menu doesn't appear at all, and I just see the loading icon.
Some brief googling seems to indicate this is a common problem for Windows 10, but the solutions being offered seem to vary wildly, so I thought I'd ask for some direct advice. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
Any time I right click a file, the right click menu won't appear (the context menu I think it's called?) and I'll just see the little loading icon indefinitely until it crashes, or if I end the task with Task Manager. I can still right click on empty space and see that pop-up menu, and I can still right click links and pictures when browsing the internet, but any actual files on my computer, it doesn't work. For example, I can save a picture to my desktop, but if I then try to right click that picture to rename it, the context menu doesn't appear at all, and I just see the loading icon.
Some brief googling seems to indicate this is a common problem for Windows 10, but the solutions being offered seem to vary wildly, so I thought I'd ask for some direct advice. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
Massingberd
Member
Thanks. There's an option in the BIOS to ignore the LAN cable check which is a good enough workaround. Still having trouble with the external HDD drives, but there is a tip about a legacy USB option which I'll try.
My boss sent us a PowerPoint presentation via e-mail this morning, and the pictures in it have all disappeared. Instead are just broken links, and the file size is tiny (sub-1MB). Somehow the pics all got lost in translation.
This is the second time it happens. I don't know about this time - I'll ask her later today when I see her -, but last time it happened after she'd changed the name of the file. I suspect PowerPoint treats all the inserted content as links, and when she changes the name of the file, Office/MacOS doesn't update the path accordingly.
She's been using PowerPoint 2016 on the latest version of MacOS for the last couple months. She'd never had any problem of the sort prior to these two incidents.
Any idea what's wrong and how to fix this? I've found some stuff on Google, but nothing really helpful so far.
[EDIT] For reference, the error message in the broken message is this: "the image part with relationship ID rId3 was not found in the file".
This is the second time it happens. I don't know about this time - I'll ask her later today when I see her -, but last time it happened after she'd changed the name of the file. I suspect PowerPoint treats all the inserted content as links, and when she changes the name of the file, Office/MacOS doesn't update the path accordingly.
She's been using PowerPoint 2016 on the latest version of MacOS for the last couple months. She'd never had any problem of the sort prior to these two incidents.
Any idea what's wrong and how to fix this? I've found some stuff on Google, but nothing really helpful so far.
[EDIT] For reference, the error message in the broken message is this: "the image part with relationship ID rId3 was not found in the file".
In Powerpoint, you can either include the images into the presentation, or link to them.
In the first case, the file is big, but portable. In the second case, should you want to share the presentation, you have to mail both the file and the images, and be ready for a lot of work. It's obviously the second case here, so you'll need to ask to your boss either to merge the images into the presentation, or mail them to you.
Last time I checked, Powerpoint was also really bad at managing linked files, using absolute paths IIRC (which means if you just move the directory with the presentation and images, you'll lose the images). I hope this, at least, has changed...
More_Badass
Member
Have a browser related question.
There's a site I visit often. No problem for months. All of a sudden, today, the site won't load on my computer
I keep getting this error:
Now this is annoying, because I write for the site, and I can't even get into the writing portal for it. The other writers say the site's working for them
The problem seems to be related to my network. I've tried on my iPad and the site doesn't load there either. I tried resetting my router, and that didn't work.
Any help here?
There's a site I visit often. No problem for months. All of a sudden, today, the site won't load on my computer
I keep getting this error:
Now this is annoying, because I write for the site, and I can't even get into the writing portal for it. The other writers say the site's working for them
The problem seems to be related to my network. I've tried on my iPad and the site doesn't load there either. I tried resetting my router, and that didn't work.
Any help here?
Procarbine
Forever Platinum
Hello tech support GAF. If you want to only help with my main concern head to the second part, the first is more academic at this point since I've ordered replacement parts.
I've been having some strange issues with my PC, it randomly restarts sometimes during gameplay for certain games. I get no blue screen, nothing other than generic crash error code in event viewer, and computer just powers off, then immediately back on. Often times before a crash, or just when my computer seems to be under strain, I notice a popping or cracking in my headphones. It isn't a static or background noise, the pops always attach to another sound that would be played. I use non-usb headphones plugged into jack on the mobo, they aren't blown out or anything and are decent quality, Sennheiser HD 598s.
This has occurred while playing Dota2, CSGO, Street Fighter V, and Diablo 3, but is very inconsistent with frequency. Sometimes I can play for 2 hours without issue, other times I start getting restarts after about an hour. Once one occurs they usually occur with more frequency until I stop playing, often times after restart I have to immediately reconnect to the game to finish it. Although sometimes it does not. Restarting the games in between matches seems to help, but other times does not. Yesterday the computer failed to boot up properly after the first crash, I had to power it down and restart again to get to the BIOS. Then on the next crash it came back just fine.
The restarting has not occurred playing Stick of Truth, Path of Exile, and Tabletop Simulator, regardless of session length, up to about 3 hours I think. Restarting also never occurs if the computer is just at desktop, web browsing, streaming video, whatever.
I ran a memory test with no issues, malware checks with MalwareBytes and Windows Defender, and stress tested my CPU and GPU, using Prime95 and Furmark, and no crashes occurred within ~20 mins of testing. I probably should've run it longer on my CPU, but I started getting the cracking in my headphones listening to people speak in Mumble, voip program. I replaced my power supply initially thinking that may be the issue, but it went unresolved. I have ordered a new mobo, cpu, and ram, so I'm essentially rebuilding, and I hope this resolves the problem.
Do you guys have any idea what could've been the issue? I figured it was just failing mobo thanks to the crackling, seemed like a signal getting messed up. The board is also about 6 years old, so it could use replacement anyway.
PART 2
I'm replacing my motherboard, cpu, and RAM but would like to avoid having to format my disk to reinstall windows. Worse comes to worse I could, I have a double SSD set up, one for my OS and a handful of apps and the other for media and all my other stuff. Everything is formatted to AHCI, so that should be fine, but going into trying this I will have to uninstall all of the device drivers relating to my current motherboard and chipset, correct? and then use the disk they give to load the new ones after the rebuild. What snags could I run into, or should I even try this? Follow up, if I format my drive that has the OS on it, everything on my secondary drive should still be fine, right? Or will it not be recognized?
I've been having some strange issues with my PC, it randomly restarts sometimes during gameplay for certain games. I get no blue screen, nothing other than generic crash error code in event viewer, and computer just powers off, then immediately back on. Often times before a crash, or just when my computer seems to be under strain, I notice a popping or cracking in my headphones. It isn't a static or background noise, the pops always attach to another sound that would be played. I use non-usb headphones plugged into jack on the mobo, they aren't blown out or anything and are decent quality, Sennheiser HD 598s.
This has occurred while playing Dota2, CSGO, Street Fighter V, and Diablo 3, but is very inconsistent with frequency. Sometimes I can play for 2 hours without issue, other times I start getting restarts after about an hour. Once one occurs they usually occur with more frequency until I stop playing, often times after restart I have to immediately reconnect to the game to finish it. Although sometimes it does not. Restarting the games in between matches seems to help, but other times does not. Yesterday the computer failed to boot up properly after the first crash, I had to power it down and restart again to get to the BIOS. Then on the next crash it came back just fine.
The restarting has not occurred playing Stick of Truth, Path of Exile, and Tabletop Simulator, regardless of session length, up to about 3 hours I think. Restarting also never occurs if the computer is just at desktop, web browsing, streaming video, whatever.
I ran a memory test with no issues, malware checks with MalwareBytes and Windows Defender, and stress tested my CPU and GPU, using Prime95 and Furmark, and no crashes occurred within ~20 mins of testing. I probably should've run it longer on my CPU, but I started getting the cracking in my headphones listening to people speak in Mumble, voip program. I replaced my power supply initially thinking that may be the issue, but it went unresolved. I have ordered a new mobo, cpu, and ram, so I'm essentially rebuilding, and I hope this resolves the problem.
Do you guys have any idea what could've been the issue? I figured it was just failing mobo thanks to the crackling, seemed like a signal getting messed up. The board is also about 6 years old, so it could use replacement anyway.
PART 2
I'm replacing my motherboard, cpu, and RAM but would like to avoid having to format my disk to reinstall windows. Worse comes to worse I could, I have a double SSD set up, one for my OS and a handful of apps and the other for media and all my other stuff. Everything is formatted to AHCI, so that should be fine, but going into trying this I will have to uninstall all of the device drivers relating to my current motherboard and chipset, correct? and then use the disk they give to load the new ones after the rebuild. What snags could I run into, or should I even try this? Follow up, if I format my drive that has the OS on it, everything on my secondary drive should still be fine, right? Or will it not be recognized?
D
Deleted member 245925
Unconfirmed Member
Maybe your DNS cache hasn't updated yet. If you're on Windows, open a command window and type: ipconfig /flushdns
Zepp Twofist
Member
You don't need to uninstall anything. Just plug in the drives and see if it boots alright. Most of the time it will. If Windows Update doesn't find all the drivers for your new stuff (or you need a network driver) you use the CD that came with the board to install whatever is missing.
If this doesn't work and you have to reinstall windows, the other drive is not affected.
Clone iften require the exact same size, which can be tricky.
Samsung SSD drives come with a cloning tool that works wonders, I've been told. Maybe it works with other brands...
Or else, I would probably boot linux on USB and try a full dd copy...
Try using google's DNS servers (if you aren't already): 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4
Procarbine
Forever Platinum
To follow up, I ended up doing this, just with drivers downloaded from the mobo's site so they were newer rather than using the disk.
Everything went through without a hitch, one failed boot because I missed a BIOS setting but after just fine, no issues with windows at all.
Older notebook (ASUS U43JC-X1) is failing to upgrade to windows 10 in a strange way. Which is on the first restart of the upgrade process it begins to boot into the Windows 10 install but then powers off. When powered back on it goes back into Windows 7 with no issues, but also no sign of the upgrade going on (or any sign of the upgrade failing).
When I google this issue I get a ton of results about a boot loop issue, but I don't see this as a boot loop issue. Any ideas?
Update, when I try to even do a fresh install of Windows 10 from a USB drive the same thing occurs when the Windows 10 startup screen appears.
When I google this issue I get a ton of results about a boot loop issue, but I don't see this as a boot loop issue. Any ideas?
Update, when I try to even do a fresh install of Windows 10 from a USB drive the same thing occurs when the Windows 10 startup screen appears.