Support NeoGAF

[Cloudius12]

What graphics card do you have? Try rolling the drivers back to the previous drivers.

I would try chkdsk command.


It might be a RAM issue. Try booting with 1 stick and add an extra stick each time.

 

[PGamer]

What graphics card do you have? Try rolling the drivers back to the previous drivers.

I would try chkdsk command.


It might be a RAM issue. Try booting with 1 stick and add an extra stick each time.

Graphics card is a PNY GeForce GTX 580. I might try previous drivers but they were giving me some unrelated (as far as I know of) issues earlier that the latest ones seem to have fixed so far so I'm not really keen on using them. I guess I'll try chkdsk and take a look at the RAM. I kind of doubt it's a RAM issue though, both sticks have been working fine for over a year now and I haven't touched them since I installed them.

 

[GWX]

Hey guys, I need some help.

My computer has been crashing everytime I try to access a flash-powered website or watch a video using a flash-powered video player (like YouTube or GameTrailers). This happens using both Windows 7 Ultimate x64 and Windows 8 Consumer Preview. I won't post my whole PC configuration here (will gladly do so if someone tells me it's needed), but I have a NVIDIA GeForce 9800GTX+ graphics card with 512MB of VRAM and the current NVIDIA driver installed in my PC is the version 301.42 (most recent one). Before installing the new driver (my Win 7 was running a 285.62 version of the driver), I didn't get those crashes. I could revert to the old drivers, but that version doesn't support Windows 8 officially. I googled about this and haven't found a solution, but I wonder if anyone else here has the same problem and know how to solve it.

 

[ChoklitReign]

My Logitech G400 mouse is broken (I'm not going to say how) - the left click will not work at all; every other button works fine. Of course that renders it useless anyway. I have heard Logitech has a generous warranty and I've only had it for 3 months. Do I have to tell them that it was an accident and will they send a replacement anyway?

 

[Shiloa]

For ages I've been able to plug my laptop to my TV via HDMI. Today, suddenly, the laptop refuses to recognise the TV. I've reinstalled the graphics driver but to no avail.

 

[wolfmat]

Hey guys, I need some help.

My computer has been crashing everytime I try to access a flash-powered website or watch a video using a flash-powered video player (like YouTube or GameTrailers). This happens using both Windows 7 Ultimate x64 and Windows 8 Consumer Preview. I won't post my whole PC configuration here (will gladly do so if someone tells me it's needed), but I have a NVIDIA GeForce 9800GTX+ graphics card with 512MB of VRAM and the current NVIDIA driver installed in my PC is the version 301.42 (most recent one). Before installing the new driver (my Win 7 was running a 285.62 version of the driver), I didn't get those crashes. I could revert to the old drivers, but that version doesn't support Windows 8 officially. I googled about this and haven't found a solution, but I wonder if anyone else here has the same problem and know how to solve it.

Try deactivating hardware acceleration for Flash content.

 

[chaostrophy]

Ok, got a question related to couch-based PC gaming. I have a basic gaming/HTPC setup based on a Core i3-2100 and Intel HD2000 graphics. It is hooked up through HDMI through my surround receiver. The problem is that when playing games in fullscreen, the edges are cut off by the edges of the TV, like the image is too large and needs to be scaled down. Initially this problem was present in desktop display mode as well, but that was solved by adjusting the scaling sliders in the Intel Graphics and Media Control Panel. But using fullscreen seems to ignore the scaling. Any way to make this work? Would a dedicated video card not have this problem?

 

[MrBig]

Ok, got a question related to couch-based PC gaming. I have a basic gaming/HTPC setup based on a Core i3-2100 and Intel HD2000 graphics. It is hooked up through HDMI through my surround receiver. The problem is that when playing games in fullscreen, the edges are cut off by the edges of the TV, like the image is too large and needs to be scaled down. Initially this problem was present in desktop display mode as well, but that was solved by adjusting the scaling sliders in the Intel Graphics and Media Control Panel. But using fullscreen seems to ignore the scaling. Any way to make this work? Would a dedicated video card not have this problem?

If the TV has a computer mode (may be a software setting or specific hardware input) go through that. If it doesn't you can try to see if the intel drivers have a way to get around overscan and positioning, I don't know if they do. If there isn't you need to make a custom resolution, either from the game menu or from its ini file if it doesn't allow you to inside the game. When I had to play on a 720p TV I had to set the game resolution to 1176x664 to be within the overscan.

 

[Emwitus]

Hey guys,

Me again! Quick question. For vaio laptops, are the LCD screens unique? Is there any way i can know my vaio LCD screen number without opening it? Please help. I tried to send it back to sony and they are charging like 700bucks to replace it while fry's is charging me 150 to replace if i can find the screen....Agh! So frustrating.

 

[ACE 1991]

Hey guys, so I built a nice rig late last August. I've noticed a whine emitting from the PC for the past couple months, and I decided today to do something about it. Using a paper towel tube I've isolated the noise to the PSU (I'm rocking a 620w Antec). Is there anyway to get rid of it other than doing an RMA? Thanks!


EDIT: After screwing around with BIOS settings, it became clear that the issue actually lies with the CPU aftermarket cooler fan. I've got a cooler master hyper 212 on my i5 2500K. Initially I had smart CPU fan disabled but after enabling this setting and setting the parameters suggested by the calibration test, the noise mostly goes away but starts to come back when the CPU is under load. Is this an issue I can fix, or do I need to RMA the hyper 212?

 

[FoxMcCloudDS]

Hey guys!

I just did my first ever PC build today, and I was wondering what everyone uses to monitor the heat inside the case, particularly the CPU.

I have the i2500k

Also, I have this fan that I installed as an extra, and it has this 4 pin connector (very small, not the large peripheral 4 pin connector, smaller than that) and I have absolutely no idea where it should go. I have all my other fans plugged into the 4 pin connectors. One other thing, should my fans all be running a constant speed? I know my CPU fan kicks in when I start a game, but the rest are always the same. Do these have to plug into the Mobo somehow?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[Johnny Cage In The Shower]

I have a Desktop PC running Windows 7 (64 bit)

Recently when I leave the computer on for a long time (unattended) the monitors only go to sleep mode ( maybe the GPU???) and not the computer itself: And the monitors do not wake up from sleep mode!!

The computer is constantly on, I can see the lights on and the fans humming, computer is running, but the monitors ( I have dual) stay sleep, in standby mode, no matter how many times I hit the keys on the keyboard and wiggle the mouse etc. the monitors don't turn on,

But I can tell the computer is wide awake: I have the Power Options on "Balanced" with

"Turn off display" on 10 minutes and "Put computer to Sleep" on 30 minutes, these used to work just fine, a simple tap of the spacebar woke up the monitors and the computer.

It's worth to note that recently I installed an HP mini media keyboard and a mini mouse as a secondary mouse and keyboard for the coffee table, and they both run on a micro USB 2.4Ghz receiver, I have a feeling These may be interfering with the PC's Sleep options? My main Keyboard/Mouse are an old USB wireless Logitech Kb, and an old Logitech wired mouse. Please help!

 

[Visualante2]

My monitor has decided to give up. Occasionally it starts, flashing grey and black, but it can be pot luck whether I can get it to boot. Sometimes taking 30 reboots to get into the OS. Not sure what sort of problem this is.

4 year old monitor, very generic brand. Is there any change of salvaging it? I've never had symptoms like this or PC problems. Mostly I'm just glad it's not the PC!

 

[krzy123]

I have a Desktop PC running Windows 7 (64 bit)

Recently when I leave the computer on for a long time (unattended) the monitors only go to sleep mode ( maybe the GPU???) and not the computer itself: And the monitors do not wake up from sleep mode!!

The computer is constantly on, I can see the lights on and the fans humming, computer is running, but the monitors ( I have dual) stay sleep, in standby mode, no matter how many times I hit the keys on the keyboard and wiggle the mouse etc. the monitors don't turn on,

But I can tell the computer is wide awake: I have the Power Options on "Balanced" with

"Turn off display" on 10 minutes and "Put computer to Sleep" on 30 minutes, these used to work just fine, a simple tap of the spacebar woke up the monitors and the computer.

It's worth to note that recently I installed an HP mini media keyboard and a mini mouse as a secondary mouse and keyboard for the coffee table, and they both run on a micro USB 2.4Ghz receiver, I have a feeling These may be interfering with the PC's Sleep options? My main Keyboard/Mouse are an old USB wireless Logitech Kb, and an old Logitech wired mouse. Please help!

Wireless devices tend to mess up sleep profiles. Th USB ports are probably powered down, therefore the wireless transceivers are also powered down. You can keep the usb ports from powering down through the device manager and/or the system bios. Even that may not work on some mobos. In device manager, check the usb power management settings tabs for the usb root hubs (there should be also an option for "Let this device wake the system").

I had a mobo that would not wake up usb devices from sleep unless i unplugged and plugged the devices back in. Then I set it to never power down usb and haven't had the issue since.

 

[Heretic]

Gaf, we have a couple of wireless access points around our office each with a different wireless key. We're looking to unify our signals so that no matter where we go, we're always connected. We use a software that needs constant connection to our network and right now it's a pain in the butt for our doctors to keep closing the program, move to the next access point then reopen the program.

Any recommendations on what we should use?

 

[Shadybiz]

Hey all, I couldn't find a specific thread for it, and didn't want to create one for what is probably a simple question.

My xbox 360 recently RROD'd, and I want to get a new one. Mine was the old Jasper model, I think, so I would be upgrading to the 250 GB Slim model. Does anyone have any anecdotes/data on the failure rates of these new ones? I'm probably going to get the extended warranty/Black tie, etc from Best Buy anyway, but I was curious as to what the odds are of it failing. I did some Internet searching, but nothing really comes up post-2010.

Thanks!

 

[MrBig]

Gaf, we have a couple of wireless access points around our office each with a different wireless key. We're looking to unify our signals so that no matter where we go, we're always connected. We use a software that needs constant connection to our network and right now it's a pain in the butt for our doctors to keep closing the program, move to the next access point then reopen the program.

Any recommendations on what we should use?

Look up how to set the routers in bridge/access point mode, and have only one router as a central hub that extends its connection to the rest.

 

[Phoenician_Viking]

Stick the HDD in another system, back up all your data, format the drive, and then wipe it. Then put it back in your laptop, install windows, and then only copy over things that you need. No virus remover will guarantee anything, so this is really your only option.

There should just a be a panel on the bottom that can be removed with a few screws, google the model number to find out exactly what to do if it isn't obvious when you flip it over.

There should be a sata power cable coming from the PSU in the desktop, most likely hanging from the HDD that's currently on there. If there isn't a spare sata data cable in there they should just be a dollar or two at an elctronics store like Radioshack or Fry's.
Otherwise you could just go ahead and re-install windows from a CD/USB and format from it's installer and skip wiping the drive since it's not vital.

I tried this method several times but my PC could not recognize the HDD of my lap top. I found the system recovery disc and i tried to restore system. it said i needed to load drivers so i used my drivers disc. I don´t know what i am doing. So i went to YT to see how does one format windows Vista. I tried to re-install windows, so i can format my laptop. I entered a partition number and it told me

Destination partition size for windows vista installation is less than 10 GB or incorrect partition size was entered

How would i know what partition size i have to put? It´s frustrating to have to go through hoops so i can format my lap top.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Levyne]

Hey guys. I'm not well versed on this stuff so sorry if this sounds...unlearned or something:

I have a dual-band netgear router, so I have a 5 band and a 2 band. During e3 I was doing a lot of streaming and the sort and ever since the 2 band have been going very slow and sometimes not connecting at all. However, the 5 band (of which only one of my devices can connect to) seems mostly unaffected (though maybe a tad slower).

The devices that have trouble connecting have no problem connecting to other networks, such as on campus so I know it is my connection. Is this something that is fixable or do I need a new one. I have tried the common fixes (ie, unpluged it a couple times) but no dice.

If more information is needed I can provide it.

 

[01DragonFly]

Hey guys. I'm not well versed on this stuff so sorry if this sounds...unlearned or something:

I have a dual-band netgear router, so I have a 5 band and a 2 band. During e3 I was doing a lot of streaming and the sort and ever since the 2 band have been going very slow and sometimes not connecting at all. However, the 5 band (of which only one of my devices can connect to) seems mostly unaffected (though maybe a tad slower).

The devices that have trouble connecting have no problem connecting to other networks, such as on campus so I know it is my connection. Is this something that is fixable or do I need a new one. I have tried the common fixes (ie, unpluged it a couple times) but no dice.

If more information is needed I can provide it.

go to the settings and try to change the wireless channel for your 2 band , probably your router has the default channel , which I think other people near you are also using.
If you don't know how to access the settings of the router ,check your manual or the netgear website

 

[Levyne]

go to the setting and try to change the channel for your 2 band , probably your router has the default channel , which I think other people near you are also using.
If you don't know how to access the setting of the router ,check your manual or the netgear website

I used to know but haven't had to in forever. So basically I'd be setting my 2 band to a slightly different frequency?

 

[GWX]

Try deactivating hardware acceleration for Flash content.

Yeah, that has been working for me so far. But using Windows 8, I have been getting some crashes that weren't happening before. When trying to watch a random video (most recently, it happened while trying to watch a *.mp4 video) on Windows Media Player (the only player I've tested), the video just stopped working (my monitor showed the power saving mode message) and I had to manually reset my computer. This never happened using Windows 7. Should I do a fresh install of the NVIDIA drivers, or even Windows 8 itself? It's weird, I've never seen this happening before.

 

[NervousXtian]

Maybe someone can offer me advice on this. Wife got us a Dell 8100 a couple years back, I wanted to build, but she wanted it done... she won. Anyhow, it came with a ATI 5770.. but I want to upgrade from that.

That be PCI 2.0 I think, right? Anyhow.. what's a good upgrade solution, I want to play ARMA II at higher settings without chugging like shit. It'd have to be similar size, and I don't believe there's much more room to put a longer card in.

What's a good option for under $250?

 

[Jzero]

Maybe someone can offer me advice on this. Wife got us a Dell 8100 a couple years back, I wanted to build, but she wanted it done... she won. Anyhow, it came with a ATI 5770.. but I want to upgrade from that.

That be PCI 2.0 I think, right? Anyhow.. what's a good upgrade solution, I want to play ARMA II at higher settings without chugging like shit. It'd have to be similar size, and I don't believe there's much more room to put a longer card in.

What's a good option for under $250?

what size is your card?

 

[01DragonFly]

I used to know but haven't had to in forever. So basically I'd be setting my 2 band to a slightly different frequency?

yes, basically routers come with the same channel frequency set by default( I think is channel 5 or 7) by changing the channel might have less interference by other routers that are using the same channel(most people just use the CD that come with the router so they use default settings).

sorry by the late response
http://support.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1027/~/improving-wireless-range:-tuning-equipment this might explain it better

 

[Fracas]

I think this is the best place to post this:

Something's messing up with my internet connection. Every 20 minutes or so, it just goes out for about 30 seconds at a time. I checked all connections, reset my router/modem, and I've done everything I can think of. Anyone know anything about this?

 

[-KRS-]

I think this is the best place to post this:

Something's messing up with my internet connection. Every 20 minutes or so, it just goes out for about 30 seconds at a time. I checked all connections, reset my router/modem, and I've done everything I can think of. Anyone know anything about this?

It's hard to determine with only that info, but does this happen simultaneously on all computers/devices that are connected to the router? And does it happen only with wifi connections or with ethernet as well? If it happens with both, try to connect one computer directly to the modem instead of the router and see if the same thing happens then. If it still happens it's not the router, but the modem or perhaps some failing switch/router on the ISP side. You could also try to share something (preferably something big that takes time to transfer) between your computers in the network to determine if it's something with the Internet connection or simply the router failing.

 

[Phantast2k]

Wtf?

On win7, chrome. Tried to clear the browser cache and that didn't do shit.
Anyone else getting that?

/edit
Going html5 now: http://www.youtube.com/html5

 

[Fracas]

It's hard to determine with only that info, but does this happen simultaneously on all computers/devices that are connected to the router? And does it happen only with wifi connections or with ethernet as well? If it happens with both, try to connect one computer directly to the modem instead of the router and see if the same thing happens then. If it still happens it's not the router, but the modem or perhaps some failing switch/router on the ISP side. You could also try to share something (preferably something big that takes time to transfer) between your computers in the network to determine if it's something with the Internet connection or simply the router failing.

Yep, everything on the network loses connection simultaneously, both wired and wireless. I hooked up my laptop directly to the modem last night, and it worked flawlessly for the hour or so that I had it connected. I'd guess it's my router. Hasn't messed up so far today with a wireless connection, but we'll see I guess. If it goes out again today, I'll be getting a new router. Crossing my fingers

 

[paskowitz]

W7 64bit. Dell Studio XPS16.

Ok I have a problem. Sometimes my computer will not go to sleep and even worse shut down (force shut is my only method when this happens). When it refuses to go to sleep it just hangs at this black screen with only my mouse visible. When it refuses to shut down, it just hangs at the shut down screen.

Other times it will not wake up from sleep. After I log in, I don't make it to the desktop.

Now, this only seems to happen after I successfully put my computer to sleep and wake it up again. The next time I try to put it to sleep or shut it off my problems occur.

This is about all I can say, but it is very, very, very annoying.

Diagnosis? Cure?

 

[Futureman]

what is a decent backup system for a small media company? I would be doing TV commercials, photos and websites.

 

[Milchjon]

OK, total noob at it again:

My HDD crashed recently. Luckily, I was able to make a System Image on an external HDD.

Now I've replaced the crashed HDD. How do I proceed? My laptop didn't come with a recovery disk.

I got a Win7 (Professional) install disc from a friend, but when I try "Repair Computer", it first lets me choose the System Image from the external backup, but then gives me a error message saying it didn't find anything.

My questions:

1. Are the problems maybe connected to the fact that my PC had Home Premium, and the new disk is Professional?

2. Is there a way to check if I installed the new HDD correctly? The error message is cut off, and maybe it actually says something different ;-)

3. Could I jusT install Win7 professional and then restore the System afterwards or is my home premium image incompatible with Professional?

4. What would be my other options?

Sorry for the general incompetence, any input would be much appreciated.

 

[Milchjon]

Bump. Anyone?

 

[Tideas]

this might be a wrong place to ask this, but anyone got a good hosting company to host a website on?

Need best bang for buck as far as latest tools and bandwidth at low cost, etc

 

[Visualante2]

HP have some terrible customer support! UK department contacted me today and said the team who helped me (guessing American) wasn't supposed to help me and that the UK office should be responsible for replacing my monitor. Even though they transferred me around 5 departments over 30 minutes before they realised this.

If their American office (via India) spend hundreds internationally same day shipping me a monitor because of the incompetence of a UK team, then holy crap what a hilariously bad operation. Can't tell because the tracking number doesn't work, but it's DHL.

Hard to believe Dell could be worse than this.

 

[NinjaFridge]

We upgraded our broadband recently and had to move the router to the other side of the house as a result. I use wireless and since moving the router I'm not getting the benefit of the new speed. I want to bring a length Cat5e from the router to my room but i want to share the connection with my PS3,360 and other devices. Do I need a switch or a repeater? Are there any switches/repeaters with wireless so i can increase the wireless range at the same time?

 

[BuggyDClown]

Okay here is my problem. I get a java related error when trying to play ticket to ride. The game is from Steam. I have uninstalled and re-installed it.

CPU is a 27inch iMac.
Windows 7 home -bootcamp
3.4Ghz i7 Quad
2GB HD Radeon 6970
8GB Ram

I tried completely re-installing and uninstalling java multiple times. I did the same with the game as well. I am at a total loss. Can anyone help. These are the error messages.

Error#1

The JVM found at .\jre is damaged. Please reinstall or define EVE4J_JAVA_HOME to point to an installed 32-bit JDK or JRE.

Error#2

The JVM could not be started. The maximum heap size (-Xmx) might be too large or an antivirus or firewall tool could block the execution.

Any ideas?

 

[NinjaFridge]

We upgraded our broadband recently and had to move the router to the other side of the house as a result. I use wireless and since moving the router I'm not getting the benefit of the new speed. I want to bring a length Cat5e from the router to my room but i want to share the connection with my PS3,360 and other devices. Do I need a switch or a repeater? Are there any switches/repeaters with wireless so i can increase the wireless range at the same time?

Got this working. For those curious, i just connected an old router to my computer via Ethernet cable. Then go into the settings and turn off DHCP and assign it an IP address. Then you just need to connect the two routers together, which i did with a long bit of Cat5e.

 

[LowTecky]

Hey Gaf, need some help here.

I recently built a computer using the "I need a New PC!" thread as my main source of information. Everything has been running incredibly smoothly for a few weeks now, until today after work I noticed that my mouse (G400) was not being recognized by my PC. Switching USB ports fixed it, but only temporarily. I naturally restarted a few times to see if that would help, and now my computer won't even go past the initial motherboard logo. I have a BIOSTAR TZ77XE3, and the LED code is displaying "99". Haven't even been able to find out what this error code corresponds to, it's not listed in the manual. Any ideas?

 

[beelzebozo]

what's the cheapest video card i can get that will let me play a decent number of computer games? no need for cutting edge horsepower, per se, just stuff like AMNESIA and maybe the newer telltale episode games.

 

[terrdactycalsrock]

I have always used an HDMI cable to hook my laptop up to my tv, and now that I have a desktop it isnt working. The Pc has the right port, why isnt it working?

 

[Korey]

Hi,

I have a problem with my computer losing its internet connection after waking up from sleep mode. Does anyone else have this problem?

I've googled it and unchecked the box in my network card's power management setting "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" but it didn't solve it.

Any suggestions?

 

[Joe]

Anyone with electrical know how?

I received a used flat panel TV with no power cord for free. The TV requires a 12v 5a power adapter; the closest I had laying around the house was 12v 750ma.

When I plugged it in the TVs standby light comes on (red led) and when I turn it on the red led becomes a blue led but the screen does not come on.

Is it at all possible that this is due to the the wrong power adapter or should it still turn on regardless and the TV is just fried?

 

[clav]

Anyone with electrical know how?

I received a used flat panel TV with no power cord for free. The TV requires a 12v 5a power adapter; the closest I had laying around the house was 12v 750ma.

When I plugged it in the TVs standby light comes on (red led) and when I turn it on the red led becomes a blue led but the screen does not come on.

Is it at all possible that this is due to the the wrong power adapter or should it still turn on regardless and the TV is just fried?

Mathmatically speaking, you were using a power adapter that was weaker by 4250 milliamps.

There's not enough current available to fully power on your TV, so it should not be able to turn on.

To put it another way:

Power (watts) = Voltage * Current (in amps)

Your original adapter power: 12*5 = 60 Watts
The one you're using: 12*0.75 = 9 Watts

 

[Joe]

very interestng and informative!

thanks a lot, i appreciate it!

im going to order a proper adapter pronto and keep my fingers crossed

 

[Famassu]

Youtube and any other sites like it (Vimeo etc.) don't work for me. Updated Adobe Flash yesterday and since then Youtube always just says "An error has occurred. Please try again later" (or something to that effect), and other sites' vids etc. don't load at all (either there's just a blank spot or there's a black box with no buttons). I'm using Firefox (and no, don't want to switch browsers) and this seems to be only a Firefox-related problem, as Youtube worked just fine on Internet Explorer when I tried it just now. One other peculiar thing is the fact that even when trying to watch a Youtube vid on the actual Youtube-site, there's that small "watch on Youtube" button in the player, which should only appear when the vids are embedded outside Youtube.

Can I somehow downgrade something that went bonkers or is there another kind of fix for this?

EDIT: Nevermind, noticed someone else seemd to have the same problem and he fixed it by going to www.youtube.com/html5 and picking the "I'll participate in using HTML5" thingie and now it works again. Or at least Youtube works again, none of others do...

 

[codhand]

I have a gtx570 connected to a Sony Bravia, using HDMI. When I display PC games on my TV, they have really bad aliasing present, even though, both my TV, and in game resolution are set to 1080p. I will try to post a picture later, but as an example, if a Steam notification displays on my TV in the lower right corner, it is basically illegible, games themselves are still playable and still look good, but the resolution seems to have way more aliasing problems. Help.

 

[Mitsurux]

What i'm trying to do: Record from a mixing board to a IMac, using the garage band software

Problem: Signal is not getting to the IMac (all i get is a buzzing)

Setup:

The Mixing board has a Record Out channel (with independant volume), the record out out puts to L and R RCA style connections.

I'm using a cord with a few different cord connections to get to the IMacs Line In jack

Garage band is set to pull from the Line in (instead of the built in mic)


I've done a little testing and know the following:

The Record out on the Mixing Board is working (as i can connect it to a tape deck and record fine)

Garage band can record from the internal mic


So i'm guessing that either i need to get a better wire (with no convertser etc)
Or
I 'm missing an option or something in the Garage band program


An ideas? Am i missing someting?

 

[MrBig]

I have a gtx570 connected to a Sony Bravia, using HDMI. When I display PC games on my TV, they have really bad aliasing present, even though, both my TV, and in game resolution are set to 1080p. I will try to post a picture later, but as an example, if a Steam notification displays on my TV in the lower right corner, it is basically illegible, games themselves are still playable and still look good, but the resolution seems to have way more aliasing problems. Help.

Possibly a problem with the TV's scalar. Is there a hardware connection or software mode for gaming or computers? It should turn off scaling and any post effects.

 

[Combichristoffersen]

what's the cheapest video card i can get that will let me play a decent number of computer games? no need for cutting edge horsepower, per se, just stuff like AMNESIA and maybe the newer telltale episode games.

Radeon 5770 should be fairly cheap by now. I have one myself in my desktop PC, and it works fine.