Never considered that, lol. Thanks!
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Never considered that, lol. Thanks!
RangersFan
Member
I had a lot of old pc parts sitting in a box (most notable a Lian Li PC7b plus II modded case) in my basement I decided to do build using as many parts I could and spending as little money as possible for a semi decent rig that can do light gaming. I spent about $260 on newegg buying an AMD A8 3850 FM1 and Asus mico atx board and a copy of windows 7 OEM (which accounted for $100 of the $260). PC is running great, but I decided not to activate Windows 7 until I had every up and running perfect the way I wanted. I decided to spend another $50 on a new hard drive and ordered it a few days ago, it just arrived today and I plan on re-installing windows 7 on the new hdd and using the old one as a secondary storage, HOWEVER I just checked and the windows 7 oem copy activated itself either today or yesterday, I think it was a 3 day activation window as opposed to the 30 day.
My question is will I be able to install on the new HDD without any activation issues? I've done many builds before, but never had to activate an oem copy twice in a short period of time. Also can I do a system recovery install on the new HDD using an image I just backed up from the old hdd the other day or should I just do a fresh one with the new hdd?
My question is will I be able to install on the new HDD without any activation issues? I've done many builds before, but never had to activate an oem copy twice in a short period of time. Also can I do a system recovery install on the new HDD using an image I just backed up from the old hdd the other day or should I just do a fresh one with the new hdd?
Im in desperate need of help. I have googled this problem many times, and it eludes me on how to fix this.
I have a PC running Windows 7. When Diablo 3 came out, I updated drivers for my AMD card and started having BSOD issues. I found a similar problem on the WoW forums and was able to eventually fix it, that was months ago obviously. I bought Civ recently and Steam updated my drivers again. The same issue started happening again, except now I cant find the post from the person who was able to fix their PC after updating drivers.
This is what I get from the minidump when I look at it with BlueScreenView.
ntoskrnl.exe
ntoskrnl.exe+10a9b
fffff800`0321f000
fffff800`03807000
0x005e8000
0x4fa390f3
5/4/2012 3:18:59 AM Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
NT Kernel & System
6.1.7601.17835 (win7sp1_gdr.120503-2030) Microsoft Corporation
C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
Please! Someone help me! I have uninstalled and reinstalled the video card repeatedly. I use driver sweepers to completely get rid of the old drivers and I cannot solve the problem.
I do not Blue Screen after I uninstall my card.
I have a PC running Windows 7. When Diablo 3 came out, I updated drivers for my AMD card and started having BSOD issues. I found a similar problem on the WoW forums and was able to eventually fix it, that was months ago obviously. I bought Civ recently and Steam updated my drivers again. The same issue started happening again, except now I cant find the post from the person who was able to fix their PC after updating drivers.
This is what I get from the minidump when I look at it with BlueScreenView.
ntoskrnl.exe
ntoskrnl.exe+10a9b
fffff800`0321f000
fffff800`03807000
0x005e8000
0x4fa390f3
5/4/2012 3:18:59 AM Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
NT Kernel & System
6.1.7601.17835 (win7sp1_gdr.120503-2030) Microsoft Corporation
C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
Please! Someone help me! I have uninstalled and reinstalled the video card repeatedly. I use driver sweepers to completely get rid of the old drivers and I cannot solve the problem.
I do not Blue Screen after I uninstall my card.
I have a quick question. I see people a lot on here say something about chrome brings up malware warnings on various threads, usually older ones that are linked. Does that work alongside antivirus' like Norton? I mean I could test it by clicking the link but if Norton overrides Chrome and doesn't pick up on it like Chrome does then I'm potentially screwing myself.
canadian crowe
Member
So I'm having a bit of a problem with my CPU temperature.
After downloading and starting to play Darksiders 2 last night, my CPU temp sky rocketed to 90 degrees. Ever since then it sits at an idle temp of 60 degrees. I thought it might need cleaning so I blew some compressed air through it, now my idle temp is 70 degrees.
My CPU is an i3 2120. It's only 3 months old.
What could the problem be, and how do I fix it?
After downloading and starting to play Darksiders 2 last night, my CPU temp sky rocketed to 90 degrees. Ever since then it sits at an idle temp of 60 degrees. I thought it might need cleaning so I blew some compressed air through it, now my idle temp is 70 degrees.
My CPU is an i3 2120. It's only 3 months old.
What could the problem be, and how do I fix it?
RangersFan
Member
assuming you are on stock cooling that sound normal. I would definitely invest in an aftermarket cooler.
canadian crowe
Member
Thanks, I think I'm going to pick one up tomorrow. Any idea why the sudden change in idle temps? I can barely turn my PC on now without it over heating.
Metroid Killer
Member
Gah trying to connect my PC to my Samsung LCD TV and I cannot get the sound to work.
For video I have used a hdmi cable with a DVI adapter (my pc doesn't have a hdmi socket, only DVI) and it works perfectly.
But using the audio cable I bought, mini-jack to phono-jack, nothing happens.
The back of my TV looks like this. I have tried all the audio sockets, but I assume I am to use the DVI IN Audio (otherwise I would get video and sound in different 'channels' on my TV, right)
What am I doing wrong? Is it the combo of Hdmi with DVI adapter that messes with the sound somehow, or am I just a complete retard and overlooking something crucial?
Thanks for the help
For video I have used a hdmi cable with a DVI adapter (my pc doesn't have a hdmi socket, only DVI) and it works perfectly.
But using the audio cable I bought, mini-jack to phono-jack, nothing happens.
The back of my TV looks like this. I have tried all the audio sockets, but I assume I am to use the DVI IN Audio (otherwise I would get video and sound in different 'channels' on my TV, right)
What am I doing wrong? Is it the combo of Hdmi with DVI adapter that messes with the sound somehow, or am I just a complete retard and overlooking something crucial?
Thanks for the help
Is audio switch suppose to be automatic? or is there a tv setting, to change the input type detection from an Auto Detect mode to a Manual.
something like this:
http://techfilipino.com/fix-for-samsung-lcd-led-tv-hdmi-dvi-no-sound-with-audio-jack/
wolfmat
Confirmed Asshole
Make sure you're using the right audio out (usually the green port on your soundcard). Make sure the output is not set to digital. Make sure it has level. Confirm that the cable is working properly. Confirm that the audio port of the TV is working properly (plug a different audio source in, iPod or w/e). Check the audio settings of your TV, there might be an audio source setting for the HDMI channel.
Why even route audio thru the TV? I'd recommend going through your Hifi Line In, for obvious reasons.
Why even route audio thru the TV? I'd recommend going through your Hifi Line In, for obvious reasons.
So you want to send the audio output of your PC via HDMI to your LCD so it uses the LCD's speaker, yes?
I did the exact same thing yesterday (HDMI cable via DVI adapter to LCD), and I only had to activate the HDMI output in Windows' Audio settings:
(It is disabled for me, since my LCD currently isn't turned on)
If you set is as default device, all sound is routed to the LCD. No need for additional cables.
It's (usually) safe. Ejecting is needed when connecting the drive to an apple computer for example (or was it the other way around?)
Disconnecting the drive when rebooting would be unwise since there would be a power surge when the computer starts. Likely nothing will happen but it's better to reboot into the OS, remove either through ejecting or just unplugging it.
I actually lost a Camera that was plugged in my computer when i rebooted. Luckily i still had warranty but after that i try to keep most of my peripherals disconnected when starting and rebooting.
wolfmat
Confirmed Asshole
It's safe to yank it out when the drive does not do any write operations.
It's very likely to break shit if you yank it out while write operations are ongoing.
If you eject a drive with the operating system thing, then cached write operations are guaranteed to complete under normal circumstances, which means that it's always safe to yank it out when ejection is complete. That's why you do it.
More generally speaking, external HDDs cannot guarantee atomicity from ACID in every scenario.
The operating system is completely irrelevant to this. Well, on Linux, all transactions can be cached if you look at the external drive as an FDD, but that's not how it's done anymore, really. So the operating system is not a variable.
Note that an OS shutdown means all transactions are guaranteed to complete. Same SHOULD be the case for sleep mode, but I can't really guarantee it myself right now. It HAS to be the case for hibernate (aka suspend to disk).
It's very likely to break shit if you yank it out while write operations are ongoing.
If you eject a drive with the operating system thing, then cached write operations are guaranteed to complete under normal circumstances, which means that it's always safe to yank it out when ejection is complete. That's why you do it.
More generally speaking, external HDDs cannot guarantee atomicity from ACID in every scenario.
The operating system is completely irrelevant to this. Well, on Linux, all transactions can be cached if you look at the external drive as an FDD, but that's not how it's done anymore, really. So the operating system is not a variable.
Note that an OS shutdown means all transactions are guaranteed to complete. Same SHOULD be the case for sleep mode, but I can't really guarantee it myself right now. It HAS to be the case for hibernate (aka suspend to disk).
Hibernate would be fine. But like you said, sleep mode should also be safe (if you have suspend disk on in advanced power options).
However, i recall reading an article (or on forums) that it's best to leave disk suspension off, even if it means stuff such as battery drainage for laptops. This is because spinning the drive up and down all the time shorten its lifespan.
Agent Cooper
Member
I'm trying to delete a font, and it keeps saying it's in use and cannot be deleted.
It's one I installed myself, so I know it's not something important. I have Windows Vista.
Please help.
It's one I installed myself, so I know it's not something important. I have Windows Vista.
Please help.
Jzero
Member
have you tried this?I'm trying to delete a font, and it keeps saying it's in use and cannot be deleted.
It's one I installed myself, so I know it's not something important. I have Windows Vista.
Please help.
wolfmat
Confirmed Asshole
Sometimes, it suffices to restart the system. Sometimes, it's even enough to logout and login.I'm trying to delete a font, and it keeps saying it's in use and cannot be deleted.
It's one I installed myself, so I know it's not something important. I have Windows Vista.
Please help.
You could also get Process Explorer (link) and check whichever process uses that font, and shoot it in the head to then delete the font.
Or you could restart the system in Safe Mode and then delete the font (no guarantee on that one).
Or you could force-delete from cmd.exe (no guarantee on that one either).
Here's some docs on that:
http://ss64.com/nt/del.html
Most notably:
My computer is being really weird. At night I usually leave it on and go to sleep. Lately I have been noticing that it's restarting by itself or something. Actually I'm not even sure that's what's going on. Last night I signed off AIM, and minimized Chrome.
I wake up this morning and my AIM is signed in, and my Chrome is on top. What the fuck? If it was restarting, the Chrome shouldn't be opening.
Also, one time I was using the computer and suddenly my monitor went into power save mode, the mode it goes on when I shut down my comp and there's no signal. The comp was still on, but I have no idea if it was actually responding.
Any ideas?
I wake up this morning and my AIM is signed in, and my Chrome is on top. What the fuck? If it was restarting, the Chrome shouldn't be opening.
Also, one time I was using the computer and suddenly my monitor went into power save mode, the mode it goes on when I shut down my comp and there's no signal. The comp was still on, but I have no idea if it was actually responding.
Any ideas?
So I can barely understand these logs, but I think I may have a problem with my Windows Update. Every night at around 3am there are Windows Update installation errors. I just tried to manually update it now and it downloads, restarts the computer, but then on the Configuring Update screen it fails and reverts the changes. Any ideas?
Yeah, don't worry about the error codes and stuff, you usually can get an idea of the problem by the event message. An immediate solution would be to disable the fully automatic installation of Updates (which would prevent the automatic reboots). But it would be better to indentify the faulty update (should be also in the eventlog, the ID of the update should look like KB[somenumbers]). Then try installing every other update besides that one, and try again. Maybe that already solves it. Or installing only a few updates at a time, check if it works and then trying the next.
Help Gaf!
I woke up this morning and turned on my pc. I had no internet access at all. It had been running just fine the other day.
Okay, long story short:
1. No internet on the pc, but the wireless network still worked.
2. Tried resetting modem, router, etc, none of that worked.
3. Comcast rep sent the signal to the modem, that didn't work.
4. I finally did a System Restore, and then it started working again.
Here is where I think I pinpointed the problem:
5. Downloaded an Adobe update right after the restore, one that does not take effect until you Restart.
6. Later on, I restarted the computer, and the Internet access was gone again. Just did another Restore, and it's back up.
So basically, I am fairly certain that the Adobe update is what screwed me up the first time. It's very strange.
What can be done to eliminate this problem, aside from never updating Adobe again? It's very strange, and I've never had this issue before.
I woke up this morning and turned on my pc. I had no internet access at all. It had been running just fine the other day.
Okay, long story short:
1. No internet on the pc, but the wireless network still worked.
2. Tried resetting modem, router, etc, none of that worked.
3. Comcast rep sent the signal to the modem, that didn't work.
4. I finally did a System Restore, and then it started working again.
Here is where I think I pinpointed the problem:
5. Downloaded an Adobe update right after the restore, one that does not take effect until you Restart.
6. Later on, I restarted the computer, and the Internet access was gone again. Just did another Restore, and it's back up.
So basically, I am fairly certain that the Adobe update is what screwed me up the first time. It's very strange.
What can be done to eliminate this problem, aside from never updating Adobe again? It's very strange, and I've never had this issue before.
It seems odd that an Adobe update would screw with your internet. Do you have your PC set to receive automatic updates from MS? If so I would check it's not downloading a nic update automatically and installing it. And that update is only taking effect after a reboot.
You're right, that does make more sense. I do have it set to update automatically... I can turn that off, and select updates individually I guess. Still really strange, though.
Anyway, thanks for the tip!
Over the weekend I suffered the unfortunate mishap of dropping my laptop with my headphones still plugged in, which broke the tip of the audio jack off inside the port. I fiddled around with it before deciding to open up the casing (it was well out of warranty so I had nothing to lose) and push it out through the front.
However, during this endeavor I managed to bend the pins that do sound stuff so my port only produces sound for the right headphone/speaker. Since the whole audio gizmo thing is attached to the motherboard, am I fucked?
However, during this endeavor I managed to bend the pins that do sound stuff so my port only produces sound for the right headphone/speaker. Since the whole audio gizmo thing is attached to the motherboard, am I fucked?
Hey Tech Support GAF,
Bit of a problem with my Rampage II Gene MB. The Heatsink on the NB Chip popped loose sometime yesterday and straight up fell off. When investigating the cause of the problem I saw that the little black plastic... thing with a spring that retained the heatsink had dislodged and allowed it to remove itself.
So my question to you is, what the hell is that black plastic thing, and can I re attach it with the same plastic thing or do I just need to get a new heatsink? (Will be reapplying thermal paste regardless)
Secondary Question: Is my NB Chip fucked now that it's overheated due to heatsink suicide?
I've never seen this type of retainer clip before or had an NB Chip overheat, so I'm not sure how to proceed.
Bit of a problem with my Rampage II Gene MB. The Heatsink on the NB Chip popped loose sometime yesterday and straight up fell off. When investigating the cause of the problem I saw that the little black plastic... thing with a spring that retained the heatsink had dislodged and allowed it to remove itself.
So my question to you is, what the hell is that black plastic thing, and can I re attach it with the same plastic thing or do I just need to get a new heatsink? (Will be reapplying thermal paste regardless)
Secondary Question: Is my NB Chip fucked now that it's overheated due to heatsink suicide?
I've never seen this type of retainer clip before or had an NB Chip overheat, so I'm not sure how to proceed.
Did some more looking into this on the Windows forums. This problem is not unheard of, and from what I can tell, can be caused by malicious software updates conflicting with third-party firewalls. I remembered that I am letting McAfee use their firewall. I think I might uninstall McAfee, and download MSE. Hoping that will fix the issue. If that is the case, though, I find it strange that more people who use McAfee aren't having this problem (I am seeing cases from 2 years ago, but nothing very recent).
Im looking to upgrade my video card. I have a few in mind, but im leaning towards
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SMUT70/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Do you guys know if this would support 3 monitors? Sadly, ive been out of the hardware side of PCs for quite a few years so im not really sure.
Any help is appreciated
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SMUT70/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Do you guys know if this would support 3 monitors? Sadly, ive been out of the hardware side of PCs for quite a few years so im not really sure.
Any help is appreciated
wolfmat
Confirmed Asshole
Well, the description certainly says it does.
"[...] and combine up to three displays for the ultimate in 3D entertainment." (Obviously, you can just use the 3 monitors like a normal person)
"Connections are 1 Mini-HDMI 1.4a connector and 2 Dual-Link DVI-I HDCP Capable connectors."
So you need the cables, but you should be able to drive 3 monitors.
Edit: HANG ON. http://www.tweakpc.de/hardware/tests/grafikkarten/nvidia_geforce_gtx_570/s05.php
Translation: "While a current AMD video card of the HD 5000 or HD 6000 series supports using 1 to 3 screens, or even 6 via display port, an NVIDIA card of the GTX 400 series supports only up to 2. This is no different with the GTX 570/580."
2 monitors. Need SLI for 3. So you might want to look for an AMD card, I reckon.
Yeah, i saw the writeup but i did some research and saw that people couldnt run 3 monitors. So i wasnt entirely sure which one to believe. It does have a display port as well as two DVI so why wouldnt it be able to run 3 monitors with an adapter?
Edit: thanks for your response btw
Is anyone having an issue with gmail displaying an incorrect number of unread messages? Just started yesterday, gmail is showing 370 unread messages for me when looked at through a web browser, on my ipad, or through mail on mountain lion (most annoying here - I'm constantly getting new notifications for emails that I received two years ago - had to turn it off). The only place it's not happening is on my iphone but I think that's because I have it set up as an exchange account to receive push notifications. I don't have any actual unread messages so I'm not sure what's going on, or how to fix it.
Not a PC issue, but wasn't sure where else to post this:
Since Sunday, my phone has been on the fritz. Basically I switch it on, and it has signal for a certain amount of time (usually around 15-20mins) and then the signal just goes away, meaning no incoming/outgoing calls/texts. I restart it, and it fixes it temporarily. I've tried it in 3 separate phones all with the same result. I told AT&T this, and they gave me a new SIM card, which worked for about half a day, and now I'm back to the same thing happening. I've called AT&T again and they are going to have a technician call me tomorrow, but, if anyone else has experienced something similar, I'd love some guidance on this. Maybe I could lead the technician in the right direction, because, so far, they haven't been too much help.
Since Sunday, my phone has been on the fritz. Basically I switch it on, and it has signal for a certain amount of time (usually around 15-20mins) and then the signal just goes away, meaning no incoming/outgoing calls/texts. I restart it, and it fixes it temporarily. I've tried it in 3 separate phones all with the same result. I told AT&T this, and they gave me a new SIM card, which worked for about half a day, and now I'm back to the same thing happening. I've called AT&T again and they are going to have a technician call me tomorrow, but, if anyone else has experienced something similar, I'd love some guidance on this. Maybe I could lead the technician in the right direction, because, so far, they haven't been too much help.
PumpkinPie
Banned
I need you help, GAF. My parents' laptop has developed a fault where a line of keys will not work e.g. 3, E, D, C. We replaced the keyboard but it didn't fix the problem. I know my Brother was fucking around with it and took it apart, so do you think he has broken one of the tracers on the mobo?
Jzero
Member
I fixed a mac that had that problem before but it got fixed when i replaced the keyboard.
Did you try spraying compressed air near the ribbon to make sure there's no dust or whatever?
PumpkinPie
Banned
No, but I'll try that. Thanks.
I'm currently having a problem with a co-worker's mac. She's not savy in the least so I have no idea what she did. Her Safari doesn't work at all anymore. Google hasn't helped one bit so I come here to GAF .
Her OS is 10.4.11 (yes it's old)
I've gone in and deleted prefs, the .plist, the folders, everything and then reinstalled. Still didn't work. The icon jumps like it's loading and then nothing. No windows open nor do the regular menus appear at the top bar. I've even reinstalled from scratch and logged onto a guest account I created and the same thing happened. She completely hosed it somehow.
Any advice/help from GAF Tech?
.Her OS is 10.4.11 (yes it's old)
I've gone in and deleted prefs, the .plist, the folders, everything and then reinstalled. Still didn't work. The icon jumps like it's loading and then nothing. No windows open nor do the regular menus appear at the top bar. I've even reinstalled from scratch and logged onto a guest account I created and the same thing happened. She completely hosed it somehow.
Any advice/help from GAF Tech?
Just wanted to pop in and note that this issue was resolved (for anyone that might have the same problem later).
It turns out that it was McAfee that was causing the non-connection issue. Something about the third-party firewall conflicting with one of the windows updates. I uninstalled McAfee, and installed Microsoft Security Essentials. Installed the windows updates, restarted the pc, and I still had Internet access. I am sure this problem could be caused by other things for different people; this is just what happened to work for me.
goldenticket
Member
hi gaf. so i need some help. i just got a batarang wired xbox controller for my mac so i can use it for steam games. i downloaded the xbox controller mac driver but my computer isnt recognizing it. Ive read in reviews this controller works on mac. When i go to system preferences and xbox controller it says no devices found. I plugged the controller into my 360 and it works. can someone please help me get this working. mac is running 10.8 (mountain lion) could that be the problem?
jossueinacoma
Member
Ok here goes nothing.
Restored a copmputer (desktop,XP pro, intel Pentium D) , installed the drivers but still wont get online. The latest network driver is installed, no drivers are missing or have that yellow triangle next to it. it gets an IP address. but still wont get online. Ive run ipconfig /release and /renew. Still nothing. Any ideas GAF?
Restored a copmputer (desktop,XP pro, intel Pentium D) , installed the drivers but still wont get online. The latest network driver is installed, no drivers are missing or have that yellow triangle next to it. it gets an IP address. but still wont get online. Ive run ipconfig /release and /renew. Still nothing. Any ideas GAF?
Trying out the Windows 8 preview and realized my 'Microsoft Account' is no more than an old hotmail email address I don't use anymore. When I tried to update my email address to my current gmail one, it said that the service was unavailable and to try again later.
Kind of suspicious that it just won't work because I'm trying to use a non-Microsoft email, which I wouldn't be surprised at because I recall them being picky about that in the past.
Basically just wondering if anyone has had success making their gmail the primary address tied to their Microsoft account.
Kind of suspicious that it just won't work because I'm trying to use a non-Microsoft email, which I wouldn't be surprised at because I recall them being picky about that in the past.
Basically just wondering if anyone has had success making their gmail the primary address tied to their Microsoft account.
Jzero
Member
I'm pretty sure you have to use a Microsoft account. You can't sync your Google bookmarks while using a hotmail account
Wafflecakes
Member
Every year or so I like to do a full wipe of my system so I can start from scratch. I just did this today and I have never had problems before but this time I am stuck.
Did a full win 7 reinstall but now I cannot connect to the internet. I use one of those USB network adapters but now its dark and the pc is not recognizing it at all. Anyone know how to fix this?
Alternatively I am supposed to be able to just plug my pc into the Ethernet jack in my dorm room but I never bothered before now and I have no clue how I would go about setting that up.
(Posting from my phone. Will not have access to another pc till Monday)
Did a full win 7 reinstall but now I cannot connect to the internet. I use one of those USB network adapters but now its dark and the pc is not recognizing it at all. Anyone know how to fix this?
Alternatively I am supposed to be able to just plug my pc into the Ethernet jack in my dorm room but I never bothered before now and I have no clue how I would go about setting that up.
(Posting from my phone. Will not have access to another pc till Monday)
BackwardsSuggestions
Member
I bought a copy of Windows 7 about 2 months ago. I want to format and start with a fresh install, can I just use the same key and disk again?
@Wafflecakes - Most USB network adapters need the right drivers to be installed, tried that? Also, if you have an iPhone or similar smart-phone using 3G, you can plug it in by USB and tether it so you can internet on the PC. It's simple with an iPhone.
@Wafflecakes - Most USB network adapters need the right drivers to be installed, tried that? Also, if you have an iPhone or similar smart-phone using 3G, you can plug it in by USB and tether it so you can internet on the PC. It's simple with an iPhone.
Jzero
Member
Yes sir.
BackwardsSuggestions
Member
Thanks, both. May try tomorrow.
Wafflecakes
Member
Hrm will.attempt the install the stuff on some of the discs that came with my pc. Maybe one of them contains network drivers. We will see.
Shouldn't it be able to connect to the internet via Ethernet either way?
Wafflecakes
Member
Ok got my tetherine up and running. My phone is essentially just acting as a usb network adapter (I don't have a data plan...too poor). Going to download updates and hope everything gets fixed.
Also ordered a new network adapter because the one I had wasn't cutting it before now anyways.
Also ordered a new network adapter because the one I had wasn't cutting it before now anyways.
Femmeworth
Banned
Will using my router's QoS feature improve the performance of video-on-demand services like Netflix? I want to know if it's worth looking into. For reference, there are three computers on my network and I mainly use my PS3 for Netflix.
Wafflecakes
Member
Thanks for the tethering tip. Everything rolling now.
One last thing. I need to re install Adobe design premium 5.5. I have my product serial number to register it but all the links on the Adobe website to download it are either dead or direct you to 6.0. I am not 100% sure where my installation disc is. Anyone know somewhere were I can download it?
One last thing. I need to re install Adobe design premium 5.5. I have my product serial number to register it but all the links on the Adobe website to download it are either dead or direct you to 6.0. I am not 100% sure where my installation disc is. Anyone know somewhere were I can download it?