Television Displays and Technology Thread: This is a fantasy based on OLED

Anyone have any experience with this TV or this model range:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRHC4LQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Can't seem to really find reviews or impressions anywhere (unless I totally missed it), but it seems really nice to me. I'm totally good with LED for the next few years (OLED looks great but I need a big set and the prices are just insane right now) and this seems like a good choice but I'll admit I'm not the most technical when it comes to TV stuff. Thanks all
 
when you get a TV really well calibrated, like ISF calibrated, and it's a high-end set... it can almost look 3D / like you're looking through a glass window.

it's really stunning if you get the colors accurate, because it tricks your brain into thinking it's real
 
jstevenson said:
when you get a TV really well calibrated, like ISF calibrated, and it's a high-end set... it can almost look 3D / like you're looking through a glass window.

it's really stunning if you get the colors accurate, because it tricks your brain into thinking it's real
Click to expand...

I remember having David Abrams calibrate my Sony RPTV like 15 years ago. It was a game changer. Those sets had a red push (makes them 'pop' on the showroom floor) in addition to a hot (blue) color temperature in general. Getting it set to a proper D6500K made it like a whole new television. Best $500 I ever spent.

And that was on a set that only did 1080i/480p/960i, and with a wideband video amplifier that only could resolve about 1,000 horizontal resolution out of 1920, which was typical of all consumer sets at the time.
 
Speaking of calibration, are the ISF settings (ISF Bright and ISF Dark room) of LG's OLED TVs generally at least somewhat accurate out-of-the-box?

I'm one of those people who just tweak the settings a bit until I like the picture, screw accuracy, but I'd definitely appreciate having at least one or two presets that could be considered somewhat accurate. I just know fuck all about calibrating these things myself.
 
aravuus said:
Speaking of calibration, are the ISF settings (ISF Bright and ISF Dark room) of LG's OLED TVs generally at least somewhat accurate out-of-the-box?

I'm one of those people who just tweak the settings a bit until I like the picture, screw accuracy, but I'd definitely appreciate having at least one or two presets that could be considered somewhat accurate. I just know fuck all about calibrating these things myself.
Click to expand...

the ISF settings are somewhat accurate.

not great, but a good starting point, between them and a calibration disc you can improve the picture quite a bit
 
jstevenson said:
when you get a TV really well calibrated, like ISF calibrated, and it's a high-end set... it can almost look 3D / like you're looking through a glass window.

it's really stunning if you get the colors accurate, because it tricks your brain into thinking it's real
Click to expand...

Some Samsung intern is going to suggest this as the tag line for their 2018 models.
 
henhowc said:
i would just try contacting LG support. worst comes to worse you could probably buy one of those universal stands. i think they just attach to the back of tvs and via the standard vesa mounts.
Click to expand...

RedlineRonin said:
Yeah I would just call LG. Not going to be at a lot of third party suppliers since the set is so new.

Otherwise there are a ton of "one size fits all" replacement stands on Amazon.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys! I called them and they actually shipped me one at no cost haha.
 
CEMU is a god send. Though BOTW is not fully playable @8k (towns really), even without HDR I think it's one of the most beautiful images I've ever seen on my OLED. The infinite contrast and these colors are just wow. Pushing 30 x 33.2 MP frames a second is a sight to behold as well.
 
It's definitely going to take some getting used to the warmer tones on my set. Out of the box it's so bright and vivid, and then you calibrate it and you think "damn, this sucks!" lol.

Something I did notice, I think I had been watching my Plasma TV wrong all this time. There's a setting on the plasma to increase black level detail, and when you turn it off, the blacks are very black, but it also crushes other stuff in the blackness, so I would turn it on, making a greyish black.

Saw that the LG OLED has the same thing pretty much. I turn it off because blacks on an OLED should be black. I feel like it still crushes some details but it's leagues better than the greyish black. I should have been watching like this on my plasma!

aravuus said:
Speaking of calibration, are the ISF settings (ISF Bright and ISF Dark room) of LG's OLED TVs generally at least somewhat accurate out-of-the-box?

I'm one of those people who just tweak the settings a bit until I like the picture, screw accuracy, but I'd definitely appreciate having at least one or two presets that could be considered somewhat accurate. I just know fuck all about calibrating these things myself.
Click to expand...

Rtings said to start with ISF Dark Room for calibration, so that's the profile I use. I found a happy medium by going with their settings, and choosing Warm 1 instead of Warm 2. Slightly cooler temp
 
Noticing some ghosting in PES2018 during replays whilst TV is in game picture mode

What setting could be causing that? LG TV
 
Tip for LG C7 users using HDR Game mode - Instead, change the input icon to PC and switch to HDR Standard - the brightness in that mode is back, and the input lag (to me) seems identical to HDR game mode. I believe rtings confirmed this in their measurements. For whatever reason, HDR Cinema and Cinema Home in PC mode are not as bright with the PC input icon.

I'm loving my C7 65" after exchanging the 55 E7 (it had a defect)..
 
Dez said:
Tip for LG C7 users using HDR Game mode - Instead, change the input icon to PC and switch to HDR Standard - the brightness in that mode is back, and the input lag (to me) seems identical to HDR game mode. I believe rtings confirmed this in their measurements. For whatever reason, HDR Cinema and Cinema Home in PC mode are not as bright with the PC input icon.

I'm loving my C7 65" after exchanging the 55 E7 (it had a defect)..
Click to expand...

Is this just for the LG C7?
 
A word of warning. I just came to the realization that my 49XE9005 only has 100mbit Ethernet port. :-/ [and most likely all other high-end Sony TVs]

This means that DLNA streaming of high-bitrate 4K content will be met with some stuttering during bitrate spikes. If the video has average bitrate of lets say 40-50mbits, it will most surely have a lot of spikes to over 100,000 kbits or even more, and since it looks that this TV cannot even sustain a full 100mbit connection, expect a lot of stuttering.

Playing videos directly via USB storage fixes this. Another solution can maybe be using USB 3.0>GigabitEthernet adapter, but I don't know if Android TV can detect and use them properly. Anybody knows?

TV also supports WiFi AC [which could supposedly be much faster than 100mbits], but since my internet router is old I cannot test that.
 
DieH@rd said:
Playing videos directly via USB storage fixes this. Another solution can maybe be using USB 3.0>GigabitEthernet adapter, but I don't know if Android TV can detect and use them properly. Anybody knows?
Click to expand...

The Nexus Player can use a USB ethernet adapter, so there's a good chance, since this is Android TV, also.
 
I have a very particular TV problem that I'm trying to solve: I'm trying to buy a TV for our kitchen wall (in our 1950 home) so that we can listen while we cook and watch while we eat. There are a power, heat, and depth requirements.

* 43-49"
* 1080p
* <3" depth
* <25 lbs
* High quality sound
* <$300
* <50 W
* VESA Mount

Normally this would be an easy buy, but the sound requirement is really throwing things off. If I didn't care about sound quality, i'd get the TCL D100. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
derder said:
I have a very particular TV problem that I'm trying to solve: I'm trying to buy a TV for our kitchen wall (in our 1950 home) so that we can listen while we cook and watch while we eat. There are a power, heat, and depth requirements.

* 43-49"
* 1080p
* <3" depth
* <25 lbs
* High quality sound
* <$300
* <50 W
* VESA Mount

Normally this would be an easy buy, but the sound requirement is really throwing things off. If I didn't care about sound quality, i'd get the TCL D100. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Click to expand...
How "high quality" are you talking about? High quality compared to other flat-screen TVs, or actual proper quality speakers?
Consider connecting external speakers. Even basic 2.1 PC speakers should outdo TV speakers.
 
shockdude said:
How "high quality" are you talking about? High quality compared to other flat-screen TVs, or actual proper quality speakers?
Consider connecting external speakers. Even basic 2.1 PC speakers should outdo TV speakers.
Click to expand...

We only have one outlet available and given it's position, we can't use a power strip :/
 
Just came back from CEDIA 2017. Wow lots of nice tech coming out. Went to a demonstration where a 65" Q9, Z9D, A1E, E7, and the 40k Sony oled mastering montior were all compared and we evaluated the differences. They are so close in all regards among the TV's, with exception of the Samsung that display is kind of trash lol. That mastering monitor is no joke though holy shit. Clean super clean picture. No noise at all. It's pretty amazing how far off these displays are. The difference between the LG an Sony oleds is so small unless you see them side by side you would be hard pressed to see the difference. I will say though the Sony has a slightly cleaner less noisy picture and motion is a little better with some sacrifice of detail on some scenes.

I'm actually considering picking up a Z9D for my office though.

Lots of good stuff audio wise coming down the pipe also. Good stuff from paradigm for soundbar users. Nice pre/pro options as well. Marantz and savant have some cool stuff also.

Pretty good show this year
 
derder said:
We only have one outlet available and given it's position, we can't use a power strip :/
Click to expand...
What TV(s) do you currently have, and are its speakers "high quality" enough for you? Or do you need something better?
Can you take a picture of your proposed location and the outlet?
 
Night Hunter said:
So, what you're saying is, it looks properly calibrated...
Click to expand...

The "guide" on Rtings has very specific settings. You can't use the settings from one TV and expect to get the exact same results on another, especially when factoring varying lighting levels (unless both are in completely dark rooms). The only truly useful guides without external hardware are those that make the simplest adjustments e.g. picture mode, contrast, brightness, backlight, gamma and color temperature. But those are still only useful when explaining the methodology, not the settings they ended up with. If he tried applying the IRE settings that Rtings used, it's no wonder the picture turned out bad. You'd have to be extremely lucky to get a set that ended up almost exactly the same as another.

There's no "properly" calibrated TVs without external hardware. When only the most basic functions are used, that's not really calibration. It's part of one, and getting your TV to look better than it does out of the box. That being said, one that has been properly calibrated beyond the basic controls isn't going to give you this night and day, "3D look" that was claimed in this thread. It's going to look better, but not mind-blowingly so compared to what you can do on your own. If you've already paid $3000+ on a TV and don't want to spend the extra time and money on how to truly calibrate it yourself, another $300 - $500 is probably worth it depending on how long it would take a calibrator to finally arrive.

Ashhong said:
Something I did notice, I think I had been watching my Plasma TV wrong all this time. There's a setting on the plasma to increase black level detail, and when you turn it off, the blacks are very black, but it also crushes other stuff in the blackness, so I would turn it on, making a greyish black.

Saw that the LG OLED has the same thing pretty much. I turn it off because blacks on an OLED should be black. I feel like it still crushes some details but it's leagues better than the greyish black. I should have been watching like this on my plasma!
Click to expand...

You aren't just talking about black level here? No idea what other control you would be referring to, but it's typically just High or Low. Unless you have the TV hooked up to a PC with it set to RGB Full, you'd want the black level to bet set to Low (or whatever the equivalent is called). Otherwise, you get awful crushing to the point of it being unwatchable. Limited+Low, Full+High. If you have the color output set to Full and the black level to Low, the picture will look completely washed out. If you have it set to Limited and the black level to High, it will look miasmic.
 
shockdude said:
What TV(s) do you currently have, and are its speakers "high quality" enough for you? Or do you need something better?
Can you take a picture of your proposed location and the outlet?
Click to expand...

I'm into HiFi equipment and TV speakers have always made my skin crawl -- budget speakers moreso.

I think I might get a USB powered speaker and find a way to mount it.
 
derder said:
I'm into HiFi equipment and TV speakers have always made my skin crawl -- budget speakers moreso.

I think I might get a USB powered speaker and find a way to mount it.
Click to expand...
Edit: Corrections after additional research.

Keep in mind that a standard USB port can usually only deliver 2.5W (500mA 5V); this is what you'll find on most TVs. If you're lucky you'll have a 5W (1A 5V) port.
Some Bluetooth speakers claim they can play while charging. I don't know how (they tend to have 5Wx2 at least), but that's what they claim.

What prevents the use of a second power outlet? If you mounted a power strip behind the TV, you might be able to rearrange other devices/appliances and make it work.
 
Sanctuary said:
The "guide" on Rtings has very specific settings. You can't use the settings from one TV and expect to get the exact same results on another, especially when factoring varying lighting levels (unless both are in completely dark rooms). The only truly useful guides without external hardware are those that make the simplest adjustments e.g. picture mode, contrast, brightness, backlight, gamma and color temperature. But those are still only useful when explaining the methodology, not the settings they ended up with. If he tried applying the IRE settings that Rtings used, it's no wonder the picture turned out bad. You'd have to be extremely lucky to get a set that ended up almost exactly the same as another.

There's no "properly" calibrated TVs without external hardware. When only the most basic functions are used, that's not really calibration. It's part of one, and getting your TV to look better than it does out of the box. That being said, one that has been properly calibrated beyond the basic controls isn't going to give you this night and day, "3D look" that was claimed in this thread. It's going to look better, but not mind-blowingly so compared to what you can do on your own. If you've already paid $3000+ on a TV and don't want to spend the extra time and money on how to truly calibrate it yourself, another $300 - $500 is probably worth it depending on how long it would take a calibrator to finally arrive.
Click to expand...

This, a million times this. As someone who does paid calibrations jobs off and on for the past 6 years going on 7 years, paid, and calibrating 3 years prior to starting to take paid jobs and spending thousands on meters, pattern generators (most recently a Videoforge Pro which is soo good), software, service remotes, etc and just a straight time investment of learning various techniques and ways to circumvent displays controls due to issues with various controls or color decoding issues, nothing bugs me more than someone saying they calibrated their display when all they did was copy settings.

Most people do not realize that the same display can vary as much as 20% in it's grayscale and color decoding. When the EF9500 came out I did 3 basically back to back and the difference in settings was huge. Another example 2 co workers got a KS8000, I calibrated one of theirs, the other opted not to have it done. Came back saying the picture was worse then a 300 dollar Vizio, the one who I calibrated went over to his place, said it looks like shit. surprise surprise he copied settings from some site. I came over ad fixed it. Now he can't stop raving about how much he loves his display.

I think what gets me most about it is that one it kind of discredits people that do ISF calibration, also it gives a bad representation of calibration if it makes the picture worse, and also makes a great display look bad which hurts peoples opinion of said display and the brand, because for whatever reason people don't shop models they shop brand.

With all that said for minimal investment someone can get a cheap meter, a basic version of calman, chromapure, lightspace, and if they are willing to learn do it themselves. would cost just about the same as having someone come out and do it. Or just pay to have someone do it.
 
Has anyone updated their LG OLED to firmware version 5.30.03 that was released yesterday? Before I upgrade, I am wondering if it fixes the issues with delayed audio over optical and HDMI ARC.

Thanks all!
 
blakdeth said:
Has anyone updated their LG OLED to firmware version 5.30.03 that was released yesterday? Before I upgrade, I am wondering if it fixes the issues with delayed audio over optical and HDMI ARC.

Thanks all!
Click to expand...

I would be careful with this firmware since it apparently raises the TVs black level, thus destroying perfect blacks.
 
FrankNitty said:
With all that said for minimal investment someone can get a cheap meter, a basic version of calman, chromapure, lightspace, and if they are willing to learn do it themselves. would cost just about the same as having someone come out and do it. Or just pay to have someone do it.
Click to expand...

Great to hear from a professional like yourself.

I noticed you did not mention HCFR, any reason why? Anything I am missing out on using it?

I have had good success with HCFR and my I1DP on my home TV's. Also investment is ~$150, + the time it takes to learn.
 
KharmaPolice said:
I would be careful with this firmware since it apparently raises the TVs black level, thus destroying perfect blacks.
Click to expand...

Man.

Didn't LG have an issue with a previous firmware update that messed up HDR? What is going on with their software team. This doesn't inspire a lot of confidence if they can just outright mess with your PQ like this from either incompetence or other reasons.
 
Beer Monkey said:
Thanks a LOT. I really appreciate it.

I can certainly live with 3X and 5X if that's what works on the set, and if 1200P works well scaled (no uneven geometry noticeable) that might be my favorite, we'll have to see. On the other hand somewhat soft images look good to me for CRT simulation sometimes, depending on the implementation, so maybe I'll go with 720p 3x. What I can't tolerate, at all is the geometry issues from poor scaling where some lines are noticeably thicker than others.

I'll probably go with 720p no matter what on the Analog NT Mini just because I don't like the look of the scanlines in 1080p on that system! There is opportunity for much improvement on how the NT Mini handles scanline processing, though that's greatly offset by the complete lack of lag and the ability to simulate over a dozen systems so far!

Anyhow, thanks for helping. One last question. For convenience sake, are options like pixel orbiting and OLED light level assignable on a per-input basis?

I think that's all I've got for questions until I find the right price on the right set, which hasn't happened this week.
Click to expand...

I am glad I was able to help! Yes, I think the 3x or 5x modes are the best ones available. The 4x mode just doesn't make much sense with the 1200p 5x working fine. I wouldn't say 3x is very soft, but 5x is certainly a bit sharper. It really comes down to preference since neither mode appears to have any issues.

I was really concerned about poor scaling with scanlines activated. Even when using the DVDO Edge I had issues with geometry on the Kuro. The only way to get even size scanlines was by zooming in until I reached a very specific level (111x) which, not surprisingly, resulted in the same crop as the 5x 1080p mode. No issues on the C7 at all.

I bet I can get the 5x 1080p cropped mode working by using the DVDO Edge. That was how I was able to get the mode to work on my Kuro as well. I'll have to give it a try sometime but I am completely happy with the other modes so I'm not really seeing the point.

OLED light level can be adjusted on a per-input basis but the pixel shifter can not. I currently have the OSSC set up on its own input (as opposed to running it through an switch, AVR or scaler), with the scanlines activated by default. Since the OLED light can be changed per-input, I have it set higher on that input to make up for the light loss due to scanlines. OLED is pretty much ideal for this since it doesn't depend on a backlight and maintains perfect blacks, yet it can still get bright.
 
III-V said:
Great to hear from a professional like yourself.

I noticed you did not mention HCFR, any reason why? Anything I am missing out on using it?

I have had good success with HCFR and my I1DP on my home TV's. Also investment is ~$150, + the time it takes to learn.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with HCFR honestly that's what I started with back in 2008. HCFR and a display LT.

There are some things you are missing out on if you want to use various other hardware. One is you are limited to a smaller selection of meters. You also are missing out on external pattern generator automation and some nice features within the software. Ex with calman I hook up my videoforge pro and select a patch and it sends it to the pattern generator displays it and when read is complete starts next sweep. Now what is nice is if I'm doing a lower apl patch that takes longer to read and I'm working on an oled I can insert break that keeps asbl from triggering. Maybe it has that now? Not sure I haven't used it in years.

Reports, as well as support and more frequent updates and work flows, and custom work flows.

I see HCFR as having having one pretty large plus and pretty large minus. 1 the lack of a work flow. It just kind of drops you in with no real direction. This is both the plus and minus. You have to really learn. There are guides online etc but you have to read them. By the time you are done though it's super satisfying and the user is probably fairly proficient. If you want a more guided introduction and workflow. I would suggest chromapure for starters.

If the price of entry is too high for someone to use paid software and a cheap meter then HCFR is more then sufficient. HCFR is pretty powerful.

Most users start with HCFR and move to something else later when they need to do something HCFR cannot.
 
FrankNitty said:
Nothing wrong with HCFR honestly that's what I started with back in 2008. HCFR and a display LT.

There are some things you are missing out on if you want to use various other hardware. One is you are limited to a smaller selection of meters. You also are missing out on external pattern generator automation and some nice features within the software. Ex with calman I hook up my videoforge pro and select a patch and it sends it to the pattern generator displays it and when read is complete starts next sweep.
Click to expand...

Right, so this is really the next step for me, if I ever decide to continue with external pattern generation.

FrankNitty said:
Now what is nice is if I'm doing a lower apl patch that takes longer to read and I'm working on an oled I can insert break that keeps asbl from triggering. Maybe it has that now? Not sure I haven't used it in years.
Click to expand...

Not the version I have, but I have yet to purchase an OLED, so not a biggie for me.

FrankNitty said:
Reports, as well as support and more frequent updates and work flows, and custom work flows.

I see HCFR as having having one pretty large plus and pretty large minus. 1 the lack of a work flow. It just kind of drops you in with no real direction. This is both the plus and minus. You have to really learn. There are guides online etc but you have to read them. By the time you are done though it's super satisfying and the user is probably fairly proficient. If you want a more guided introduction and workflow. I would suggest chromapure for starters.
Click to expand...

Yes, learning is key, as it is a bit of a trial by fire. Anyone that does not have a lot of confidence in their ability to really dig in to figure it out maybe pass. I know for me, it was about 20 hours investment, if not more. And I treated it like I would a college level course.

FrankNitty said:
If the price of entry is too high for someone to use paid software and a cheap meter then HCFR is more then sufficient. HCFR is pretty powerful.

Most users start with HCFR and move to something else later when they need to do something HCFR cannot.
Click to expand...

Thanks again!

BTW, about 6 months ago, I purchased R. Masciola's HDR test patterns. Have you had good experience with these? My set doesn't reach 1000 nits but it was interesting to see where its limitations were.
 
jstevenson said:
when you get a TV really well calibrated, like ISF calibrated, and it's a high-end set... it can almost look 3D / like you're looking through a glass window.

it's really stunning if you get the colors accurate, because it tricks your brain into thinking it's real
Click to expand...

I had my KS8000 done and I can hardly tell much of a difference. Big waste of $300 IMO. It was close enough out of the box in Movie/Warm 2.
 
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