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The Automotive Discussion Thread

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Y

YuriLowell

Member
NoLoveForFailWheelDrive said:
Just an FYI... valve cover gasket is no big deal. You can fix it yourself. Very common issue that happens on all M50/M52/M54 and S50/S52's from time to time. Pretty cheap to fix too. That M54 motor is rock solid.

So I went and saw my friend's E36 M3 today that he's selling me... wow Estoril Blue looks so much better in person than in pics. It does need $1-2k worth of TLC but it'll be worth it. E36 M3 is such a great car to drive. I just wonder how much fun it'd be with 400+ whp on tap. :) It'll hold me over a month or two til I pick up another Evo 9 or the Z06...
Click to expand...

F/I on an S52 is like playing with fire.
 
rokkerkory

rokkerkory

Member
TylerD said:
Someday, girl... someday...

http://www.esstuning.com/products/M54B30-Twin-Screw-Stage-2-%28TS2%29.html
Click to expand...

yummmm....

here is a pic of my S65 with Akra Evolution exhaust:

150047_464956798757_5242203_n.jpg
 
A

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Hottttttt.

I see that the Italians have taken cues from the British though...the interior looks very much like the minimalistic insides of the McLaren MP4.

But good riddance to the Gallardo. I drove one a few weeks ago in Miami, and it's such an awful looking car inside. That interior looked dated by 2005. That's what happens when you use a recycled Audi TT interior.
 
rokkerkory

rokkerkory

Member
Mattlikewhoa said:
You've got nice tastes in exhausts...

...You also know how to ball...

My friend bought one (complete system), and I think it was like $6K at the time...
Click to expand...

Thanks... Yeah (the evolution = complete system) is a grip but sooo worth it? lol

Oh wells, she's my baby and gets the best. I also picked up some rims earlier this year as well. Bit hard to see from this angle but best pic I have right now:

527755_10151485146123758_300907202_n.jpg


HRE 19in P40SC in satin black
 
Hesemonni

Hesemonni

Banned
ayqKvUt.jpg


Should I?

I know 4-series is coming and all, but this one is up for grabs for a pretty fair price. Decent spec, xDrive..47 km on it and manufactured May 2013.
 
A

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Hesemonni said:
ayqKvUt.jpg


Should I?

I know 4-series is coming and all, but this one is up for grabs for a pretty fair price. Decent spec, xDrive..47 km on it and manufactured May 2013.
Click to expand...

Is it a 335 or 328? If 335, get it.

The 4-series is a bloated pig with crappy steering.
 
C

coldfoot

Banned
rokkerkory said:
4 series looks better in every way... but let's see how it drives? hopefully since it is lighter and they get the electro steering down it should be good.
Click to expand...
If you're buying a coupe, looks should be first and driving experience second IMHO, since you're giving up all the practicality of having more doors.
This is why I don't understand why people buy ugly 2-door cars like the Nissan 350/370Z (Trolling Alphasnake :)).
Not to mention, the 4 won't drive that much differently than the existing 3 coupe.
 
rokkerkory

rokkerkory

Member
coldfoot said:
If you're buying a coupe, looks should be first and driving experience second IMHO, since you're giving up all the practicality of having more doors.
This is why I don't understand why people buy ugly 2-door cars like the Nissan 350/370Z (Trolling Alphasnake :)).
Not to mention, the 4 won't drive that much differently than the existing 3 coupe.
Click to expand...

Well people have different priorities but for me perf over looks generally.
 
T

TxdoHawk

Member
Can I throw questions about dealing with dealers in this thread?

Specifically, how do you guys like to negotiate, and what do you do about low prices that have the "require dealer financing" stipulation? I've been shopping around after securing a used car loan online, and AutoTrader is filled with low prices with the "must finance through dealer" caveat.

- Many dealers I deal with in the lower end of the price bracket want to negotiate my trade-in instead of the price. Lots of them point to an "accident" (one of my idiot relatives backed the corner of my bumper into a brand new parked Toyota while going less than 5MPH, no real damage to the car) and want to knock off like $2500 from my TIV, then often relent and put it back when I make it clear I'm about to walk out. Is there an easy way I can skip the bullshit, or will I continue to have to play hardball?

- How do you deal with dealers that seem eager to get you in to talk, but their price is a few thousand higher compared to the competition? Nobody wants to negotiate with me until I'm actually at the dealer, but I don't have time to visit every dealer on the planet, especially if after haggling they are still going to be a few thousand short of what I want. Are these people just a lost cause?

- What's your experience with putting dealer prices and TIVs against each other? I've had mixed success, most try to tell me it's not an "apples to apples" comparison because of some lame excuse like the car has a thousand less miles on it, or it's a more popular color, or something else equally dumb.

Any advice is appreciated. Dealing with these people makes me want to never buy a car again.

Oh, and for the curious, I'm shopping for a new-gen (2011-2013) Chrysler 300C. Yes, I know, I know.
 
D

David Incorporated Esq.

Member
TxdoHawk said:
Can I throw questions about dealing with dealers in this thread?

Specifically, how do you guys like to negotiate, and what do you do about low prices that have the "require dealer financing" stipulation? I've been shopping around after securing a used car loan online, and AutoTrader is filled with low prices with the "must finance through dealer" caveat.

- Many dealers I deal with in the lower end of the price bracket want to negotiate my trade-in instead of the price. Lots of them point to an "accident" (one of my idiot relatives backed the corner of my bumper into a brand new parked Toyota while going less than 5MPH, no real damage to the car) and want to knock off like $2500 from my TIV, then often relent and put it back when I make it clear I'm about to walk out. Is there an easy way I can skip the bullshit, or will I continue to have to play hardball?

Don't mention you're trading something in until you've settled on a price for the new car. They'll try to confuse the negotiations with the TIV.

- How do you deal with dealers that seem eager to get you in to talk, but their price is a few thousand higher compared to the competition? Nobody wants to negotiate with me until I'm actually at the dealer, but I don't have time to visit every dealer on the planet, especially if after haggling they are still going to be a few thousand short of what I want. Are these people just a lost cause?

Don't go to the dealer. Settle on exactly what you're looking for and send out e-mails to all the dealerships in the area carrying that car asking for their best price. You'll get some quotes, see if you can get them lower by playing off each other.

- What's your experience with putting dealer prices and TIVs against each other? I've had mixed success, most try to tell me it's not an "apples to apples" comparison because of some lame excuse like the car has a thousand less miles on it, or it's a more popular color, or something else equally dumb.

The dealer is there to make money. They're not going to buy your car for anywhere near the price they're selling one. You're much much better off selling your car privately.

Any advice is appreciated. Dealing with these people makes me want to never buy a car again.

Oh, and for the curious, I'm shopping for a new-gen (2011-2013) Chrysler 300C. Yes, I know, I know.
Click to expand...

Do some research on the value of the car and try to get close to that. If you're walking out of dealership after dealership without getting a purchase it means you're asking too little. If dealerships don't call you back to take you up on an offer it means there's no money in it for them at all.

What's your current car? Do you think you can sell it privately? The only thing you get out of trading it in is convenience, and it's expensive convenience. I just sold a car for $6500 that dealers were offering me $3500 on trade; just takes a little time and patience.
 
T

Tallshortman

Member
TxdoHawk said:
Can I throw questions about dealing with dealers in this thread?

Specifically, how do you guys like to negotiate, and what do you do about low prices that have the "require dealer financing" stipulation? I've been shopping around after securing a used car loan online, and AutoTrader is filled with low prices with the "must finance through dealer" caveat.

- Many dealers I deal with in the lower end of the price bracket want to negotiate my trade-in instead of the price. Lots of them point to an "accident" (one of my idiot relatives backed the corner of my bumper into a brand new parked Toyota while going less than 5MPH, no real damage to the car) and want to knock off like $2500 from my TIV, then often relent and put it back when I make it clear I'm about to walk out. Is there an easy way I can skip the bullshit, or will I continue to have to play hardball?

- How do you deal with dealers that seem eager to get you in to talk, but their price is a few thousand higher compared to the competition? Nobody wants to negotiate with me until I'm actually at the dealer, but I don't have time to visit every dealer on the planet, especially if after haggling they are still going to be a few thousand short of what I want. Are these people just a lost cause?

- What's your experience with putting dealer prices and TIVs against each other? I've had mixed success, most try to tell me it's not an "apples to apples" comparison because of some lame excuse like the car has a thousand less miles on it, or it's a more popular color, or something else equally dumb.

Any advice is appreciated. Dealing with these people makes me want to never buy a car again.

Oh, and for the curious, I'm shopping for a new-gen (2011-2013) Chrysler 300C. Yes, I know, I know.
Click to expand...

Like Dave mentioned, request quotes from all the dealers within a distance you're willing to drive. Definitely refuse to "come in" to the dealership, it's a fairly common tactic, tell them you're not going to unless they give you a quote and are willing to come to an agreement beforehand. I've found that finishing negotiations before going to the dealership saves a lot of time and hassle, as well as giving you a stronger negotiating position because it's way easier to walk away when you're at home.
 
C

chickdigger802

Banned
And w/e you do, look prepared. bring notes, (researched prices etc). dress up nicely.

Do remember that there are dealers that deliver cars, so don't just restrict yourself locally, especially if you live in a place where this specific car is selling at a high price.
Even getting a quote from out of state could be a powerful bargaining chip.
 
S

Smokey

Member
Am I the only one that gets mindfucked when seeing a 5 series? It looks almost the same size as a 7 now. 3 looks like size of a old 5.

I don't have this problem with the Benz or Audi. I see an E or S and they are easily distinguishable.

Btw seen a few of the new S Cars. Dat road presence
 
W

weekend_warrior

Banned
TxdoHawk said:
Can I throw questions about dealing with dealers in this thread?

Specifically, how do you guys like to negotiate, and what do you do about low prices that have the "require dealer financing" stipulation? I've been shopping around after securing a used car loan online, and AutoTrader is filled with low prices with the "must finance through dealer" caveat.

- Many dealers I deal with in the lower end of the price bracket want to negotiate my trade-in instead of the price. Lots of them point to an "accident" (one of my idiot relatives backed the corner of my bumper into a brand new parked Toyota while going less than 5MPH, no real damage to the car) and want to knock off like $2500 from my TIV, then often relent and put it back when I make it clear I'm about to walk out. Is there an easy way I can skip the bullshit, or will I continue to have to play hardball?

- How do you deal with dealers that seem eager to get you in to talk, but their price is a few thousand higher compared to the competition? Nobody wants to negotiate with me until I'm actually at the dealer, but I don't have time to visit every dealer on the planet, especially if after haggling they are still going to be a few thousand short of what I want. Are these people just a lost cause?

- What's your experience with putting dealer prices and TIVs against each other? I've had mixed success, most try to tell me it's not an "apples to apples" comparison because of some lame excuse like the car has a thousand less miles on it, or it's a more popular color, or something else equally dumb.

Any advice is appreciated. Dealing with these people makes me want to never buy a car again.

Oh, and for the curious, I'm shopping for a new-gen (2011-2013) Chrysler 300C. Yes, I know, I know.
Click to expand...

The most important thing to always remember is "he who holds the cash holds the power". The biggest bargaining chip you have is walking away, a dealership can't just walk away from a car they own. Just make sure you're not giving off a vibe like you're not actually interested in buying, because nobody wants to help someone wasting their time.
 
T

TxdoHawk

Member
Thanks for the advice guys. I've got a pretty agreeable setup for a local dealer Sunday who just dropped their price to a range within my tastes, so hopefully that will be my ticket.

bcl0328 said:
BMW i8 key fob
Click to expand...

I don't even want to think what replacing one at the dealer will cost. D:
 
D

Dineren

Banned
Feel free to mock me if this is a stupid question, but I've been driving a 94 altima for about 14 years and know only the basics when it comes to cars. I just went out yesterday and bought a 2014 Mazda3 i GT and it has a mode where you can apparently change the gears manually. Is there any point to actually using that? Is it just try to simulate driving a manual for those who enjoy it? I would assume (perhaps incorrectly) that there would be no fuel or performance advantage.

Like I said I know very little about cars beyond basic maintenance, so feel free to mock me if this is an incredibly ignorant question.
 
R

reilo

learning some important life lessons from magical Negroes
Dineren said:
Feel free to mock me if this is a stupid question, but I've been driving a 94 altima for about 14 years and know only the basics when it comes to cars. I just went out yesterday and bought a 2014 Mazda3 i GT and it has a mode where you can apparently change the gears manually. Is there any point to actually using that? Is it just try to simulate driving a manual for those who enjoy it? I would assume (perhaps incorrectly) that there would be no fuel or performance advantage.

Like I said I know very little about cars beyond basic maintenance, so feel free to mock me if this is an incredibly ignorant question.
Click to expand...
It's just a signal switch telling the automatic transmission to shift up and down at your desired RPM. It's similar to paddle shifting, but unless it's a dual clutch transmission, it's pretty useless.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual_clutch_transmission

Congrats on the new car, you did good.
 
A

asdad123

Member
So I recently got a good job, and I want to buy myself a new car. Been going off consumer reports reviews.

Ive been looking at the 328i xDrive, Audi A4, and infiniti G37 (seems like the best choice).

Any other recommendations for a Sedan with AWD under 35,000? Looking to buy a certified 2011+
 
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