Bitmap Frogs
Mr. Community
BlueTsunami said:
M Series Leicas are already mirrorless. That's why they're so compact.
What they're talking about is going with an electronic rangefinder instead of the current system.
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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread
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M Series Leicas are already mirrorless. That's why they're so compact.
What they're talking about is going with an electronic rangefinder instead of the current system.
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
Bitmap Frogs said:
Oh, I know this but the system they're probably talking about is mirrorless in the DSLR segment. No rangefinder mechanism to deal with, just a sensor and an EVF. Coming out with such a camera would be great since they've got the X1 which is almost like a Point and Shoot, the future Leica Mirrorless next and then the M9 and future M10 their crown jewel.
Instigator
Banned
equap said:
You come here boasting about your shiny new lens and you won't even tantalize us with what it can do? Hence why I said post some photos taken with that lens. It's completely on-topic.
Max Armstrong
Member
He's not the one who bought it, you quoted the wrong guy.Instigator said:
Instigator
Banned
ha ha my bad
sweetvar26
Member
I didn't know this thread existed.
Where do you think I can get polarizing filters for my Canon EOS 450D with 18-55mm lens and 55-250mm lens?
I live in Toronto area, so would be better if I can pick locally.
Are there different kinds that I will have to pick them up? It would be nice if there is a kit sort of thing for a decent price so I can try different ones for my needs.
I'm kinda new to DSLR's but I liked the shots being taken with polarizers, want to try some out.
Thanks.
Where do you think I can get polarizing filters for my Canon EOS 450D with 18-55mm lens and 55-250mm lens?
I live in Toronto area, so would be better if I can pick locally.
Are there different kinds that I will have to pick them up? It would be nice if there is a kit sort of thing for a decent price so I can try different ones for my needs.
I'm kinda new to DSLR's but I liked the shots being taken with polarizers, want to try some out.
Thanks.
Here's my flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/crackalacking/ ... not an awful lot yet, but more to come for sure.Instigator said:
You can also check out the lens's flickr group, tons of shots: http://www.flickr.com/groups/1505867@N20/pool/with/5845096412/
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
ChryZ said:
Wow, you can see the great resolution it provides, even at websize. Great detail. Which is amazing for such a fast lens.
theusedversion
Member
Anyone have any experience with these lenses?
Canon EF 50mm f1.8 II
http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_171462_-1
Canon EF 24mm f2.8 Wide Angle Lens
http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_171390_-1
Pretty inexpensive lenses. I've heard great things about the 50mm but am wondering if any gaffers have it.
Canon EF 50mm f1.8 II
http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_171462_-1
Canon EF 24mm f2.8 Wide Angle Lens
http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_171390_-1
Pretty inexpensive lenses. I've heard great things about the 50mm but am wondering if any gaffers have it.
sweetvar26 said:
Different lenses will take different filter sizes, so you may need to buy different filters for your two lenses or buy an adapter. The lens' filter size is usually printed somewhere on it. Typically they are in the 40-70mm range.
Prices can vary a lot. If you're just experimenting, I would recommend buying something for $10 or less.
Need some advice.
My gf wants a DSLR for taking pictures of her niece and nephew and my niece and nephew along with our vacations to DC , Disney World , Boston and hiking around.
She has settled on the Canon T3i , Her brother in Law works for canon and gets very good discounts . The main question we have is if she should buy the standard kit or get the body only and a better Lense ... or the kit + a better lense .
We are wondering what lense would be best for something like Disney world where you have a lot of vistas but then alot of fast moving events and things like the electrict light parade.
Any help would be great
My gf wants a DSLR for taking pictures of her niece and nephew and my niece and nephew along with our vacations to DC , Disney World , Boston and hiking around.
She has settled on the Canon T3i , Her brother in Law works for canon and gets very good discounts . The main question we have is if she should buy the standard kit or get the body only and a better Lense ... or the kit + a better lense .
We are wondering what lense would be best for something like Disney world where you have a lot of vistas but then alot of fast moving events and things like the electrict light parade.
Any help would be great
The_Inquisitor
Member
theusedversion said:Anyone have any experience with these lenses?
Canon EF 50mm f1.8 II
http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_171462_-1
Canon EF 24mm f2.8 Wide Angle Lens
http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_171390_-1
Pretty inexpensive lenses. I've heard great things about the 50mm but am wondering if any gaffers have it.
My first post kit lens. Fanastic piece of work. Can't go wrong with nifty 50.
I recently bought a t3i (first dslr, had it for about a week). The kit I got was with the 18-135 lens. While it's great and will easily do what you're after, I feel it's just a bit too big to be a social, walkaround lens.eastmen said:
For that very reason, I'm trying to get my hands on a sigma 1.4 30mm. It's not big, good in low light/freezing action, and will be very flattering for portraits as it's a "normal" 50mm focal length when attached to the t3i. It's a prime lens, so no zooming, but it'll be fantastic for what you're after.
Note though that I don't actually have this lens yet, so I can't give first-hand impressions.
The_Inquisitor
Member
eastmen said:
A lot of people will say learn with the kit. I think that sucks. I suggest going body only, then spending a little extra and getting the Tamron 17-50 non-IS lens. Worth every penny and blows the kit lens out of the water.
I have the 50mm 1.8 II. Apart from the flimsy construction, the pictures are amazing. However with a cropped x1.6 sensor, the focal length is too zoomed in for my taste (about 80mm), so I'm going to return it and get the sigma I mentioned above. It'd be perfect with a full frame sensor though.theusedversion said:
I too have the 50mm 1.8 II, and I use it on my 7D a lot. Pretty much the perfect first lens to go with. Cheap, sharp, and produces some great images.
My only gripe is the focus ring has the lip on it, which I find quite annoying as I mainly use my 7D for video, so I ended up buying a cheap 50mm 1.4 with an M42 mount and adapter.
Other than tat, great lens.
My only gripe is the focus ring has the lip on it, which I find quite annoying as I mainly use my 7D for video, so I ended up buying a cheap 50mm 1.4 with an M42 mount and adapter.
Other than tat, great lens.
Kamakazie!
Member
chaostrophy said:
I'd suggest waiting till the end of the month and seeing what the new Olympus E-P3 is like. Should fit the bill of plenty of manual controls, hopefully a good sensor upgrade from the E-P2, faster focus and an every improving range of lenses from Oly & Panasonic!
The_Inquisitor said:
If you're getting a good discount, and if she doesn't want to be changing lenses a lot (who does, walking around disneyland), the 18-135IS kit is pretty good. Good flexible focal lengths and an improvement over the 18-55 kit. You could manage very well with just that lens permanently attached.
The_Inquisitor
Member
mrklaw said:
Very true. However, I found with a crop sensor body that the 17-50 is pretty darn good as a walkaround lens itself. Didn't find myself really needing the extra reach unless I was trying to shoot a bird. In that case, my 70-200mm telephoto was used and is probably vastly superior in image quality (spoiled by my non-IS L, though I may be selling it soon to upgrade to the IS version)
I just think the Tamron lens is a better piece overall. It's sharper and the glass is nicer.
Also, invest in a nice polarizer. Makes a HUGE difference, especially in landscape.
It is. Superzooms are generally pretty sucky and the Canon 18-135 is no different. I'd stay well away.The_Inquisitor said:
Seriously jump all over the Tamron and if you need more reach, buy a real telephoto lens. Switching may be annoying, but leaning on a superzoom for convenience makes your IQ suffer dramatically.
I have the 18-135 and personally I feel it's fantastic for an everyday lens. If not for myself preferring a smaller, lightweight lens when on the go, I'd use it for just about everything. The ergonomics are great for its price, and the IQ isn't something to laugh at.Danoss said:
Of course I'm not in any way objecting to the Tamron (haven't used it myself), but the 18-135 shouldn't be something people "stay well away" from.
Might be the wrong place to ask but here goes:
Is there any way to send RAW files off of the iPad to an FTP or even email? I can only send the generated JPG files that iPad makes when importing with the official camera connection kit. I want to use the iPad to make backups of some image files when I'm away from the computer.
(EDIT) Nevermind, actually found that you can email RAW files through the Photos app. Slow as hell but it works.
Is there any way to send RAW files off of the iPad to an FTP or even email? I can only send the generated JPG files that iPad makes when importing with the official camera connection kit. I want to use the iPad to make backups of some image files when I'm away from the computer.
(EDIT) Nevermind, actually found that you can email RAW files through the Photos app. Slow as hell but it works.
DodgyGeezerFella
Member
Forgive me if I sound like a dunce, but I really want to try some macro photography, and maybe its me being thick, but im getting a little confused by some of the lenses available. Some specifically say "macro lens", while others dont yet are 300mm. Are they both the same thing anyway ?
True Macro lenses allow you to obtain 1:1 magnification of the subjects. You're not alone in being confused as some lenses tagged as "Macro" simply mean it has quite a short focusing distance and will allow focusing close to subject matter.Ogs said:
Now, I'm assuming you shoot Canon as they are by far the best choice for macro shooters.
If you want to give it a try, just run out and grab some extension tubes and use them with your existing lenses. I use the Kenko set myself, but brand doesn't matter too much (except don't buy the Canon one, it's poor value). Then if you like it, go out and buy an actual macro lens (and you can still use the extension tubes for extra magnification).
If you want to jump in and buy a macro lens, probably look at the Sigma 105mm Macro. If you want to spend more, have a look at the Canon 100/2.8 Macro which I have and it is excellent, or its newer, bigger, sexier brother the Canon 100/2.8L IS.
If you REALLY like macro, you can then go for the big daddy pure macro Canon MP-E 65. Damn, I want that lens, but I don't shoot enough macro to warrant it.
Also, you will want a flash to go with it, luckily this can be (and is actually better) done on the cheap if you want. Have you got an external flash like a 430EX?
Sorry, that was very poorly written, but I can't be bothered to go back and fix it.
Magnification factor 1:2 = cheap Macro
Magnification factor 1:1 = real Macro.
Some Sigma "Macro" zoom that doesn't tell you the MF = not really Macro.
Cheap Macro lens are 50mm, 60mm; the 100mm range are expensive Macro lenses; real expensive ones are the 200mm ones. Most Macro lenses are f/2.8, and have very long focus ring rotation to fine tune the focus plate.
A very popular Macro lens for the money is the Tamron 90mm, there are many versions, read it up.
Magnification factor 1:1 = real Macro.
Some Sigma "Macro" zoom that doesn't tell you the MF = not really Macro.
Cheap Macro lens are 50mm, 60mm; the 100mm range are expensive Macro lenses; real expensive ones are the 200mm ones. Most Macro lenses are f/2.8, and have very long focus ring rotation to fine tune the focus plate.
A very popular Macro lens for the money is the Tamron 90mm, there are many versions, read it up.
WanderingWind
Mecklemore Is My Favorite Wrapper
Photo-editing questions...do they belong here or is there a better thread?
The Buzz Out Loud podcast has the Lytro guy who is making news with the light field camera on the podcast.
As far as I can tell, it uses 10X10 array of lenses and sensor to capture the scene with 3D matrix information.
If thats the case, the dynamic range and color reproduction is going to lose a lot of steps, maybe 2-3 steps, due to the sensor being 100 times smaller. Unless they put sensor of different sensibility in the sensor array like the old fuji.
The resolution is going shot to hell since the lens is so much smaller, however you can make the camera package very flat, very thin. And the overall sensor can be much bigger for a point and shot.
On their website you can play with the photos, but they are simply faking the out of focus effect with a dumb blur filter, not even making real bokeh. Although I pressure you can do it with a more powerful filter.
It can probably improve video capture, but I don't see it that much more useful for still photography.
As far as I can tell, it uses 10X10 array of lenses and sensor to capture the scene with 3D matrix information.
If thats the case, the dynamic range and color reproduction is going to lose a lot of steps, maybe 2-3 steps, due to the sensor being 100 times smaller. Unless they put sensor of different sensibility in the sensor array like the old fuji.
The resolution is going shot to hell since the lens is so much smaller, however you can make the camera package very flat, very thin. And the overall sensor can be much bigger for a point and shot.
On their website you can play with the photos, but they are simply faking the out of focus effect with a dumb blur filter, not even making real bokeh. Although I pressure you can do it with a more powerful filter.
It can probably improve video capture, but I don't see it that much more useful for still photography.
I wouldn't get the 50 1.8. it's a great lens but it's around $120 right now when it used to be $80!!! I'd save up a little more to get the 50mm 1.4 around $350.theusedversion said:Anyone have any experience with these lenses?
Canon EF 50mm f1.8 II
http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_171462_-1
Canon EF 24mm f2.8 Wide Angle Lens
http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_171390_-1
Pretty inexpensive lenses. I've heard great things about the 50mm but am wondering if any gaffers have it.
HenryGale said:So two things I wanted to share.
Magic Lantern. Amazing.
Installed this on my T2i still in beta and it works like a charm. no bugs, and not worried about anything gong wrong. Plus I can turn of Auto Gain Control now and get great audio with a Rhode Mic Pro. On board HRD which auto takes the amount of photos I want up to 9 stops of exposure? Amazing. On board intervalometer? Amazing. Zebras for video? Incredible.
Seriously gives me the Audio control of a 5D Mark II and software you wouldn't otherwise get, and that even hardware can't replicate. So amazing. Makes my T2i VERY powerful. Can also double the nitrate of my video recording.
DSLRSolutions Follow Focus. Greatest rig out there for under 100$.
Used a Zacuto once before at school, the knob follow focus is a bit more elegant, but this is better than any DIY rig I have ever seen. Also it was only 60$. Just came in today, been having a blast with it. I can set up to 4 stops of focus and rack with it, which gives it features that even 400$ follow focus rigs don't have. If you're not using a follow focus rig, buy this.
I came across this cheap ($3) follow focus solution;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wr7ODWNcMoY
DodgyGeezerFella
Member
Danoss said:
Very informative, thanks
I have a Nikon D3100 though. I think i will take your advice and get some extension tubes first, just to give things a whirl tino said:
1:1 is what to look out for then, once again thanks for clearing this up for me
My pleasure. I hope you didn't miss one thing in my post earlier about a flash. When shooting macro, light is quite often an issue. It is a rare occasion when you can shoot using natural light, so a flash is essential and E-TTL or in your case with Nikon, I-TTL is a blessing. Do you have an external flash to use, such as a Nikon SB-600 (had to google to find this models as my knowledge of Nikon is severely lacking)? Basically you want a swivel-head flash with I-TTL for what I am about to suggest.Ogs said:Very informative, thanks
So, to make your own macro flash on the cheap, without going out and spending money on a macro ring light you will need these things.
- External flash unit that supports E-TTL/I-TTL.
- Off-camera E-TTL/I-TTL cord. Choose the appropriate cord from the linked site (cheapest I've found with great service).
- Hakuba LH1 flash bracket, just search for one of these on eBay. Picture at link.
- Coke can.
- Gaffers tape.
- Heavy duty kitchen toweling paper.
Looks dodgy, but it is very effective and many prefer it to the "proper" macro ring light options as this light gives more definition and softer shadows. I stole this idea from the forum user LordV on another site. I have a Canon MR-14EX and am still going to use this setup (just waiting on the flash cord).
eastmen said:
If you are getting that kind of discount, definitely buy both lenses. If you find that you don't use one of them or decide to upgrade later, you will easily be able to recoup your costs (and make a profit for the 18-135IS) selling the lens on the used market. An "excellent" condition used 18-135IS sells for $380 on KEH.
The_Inquisitor
Member
So I got a D60 last month, and to be honest I am a little lost on all the new features I now have after upping from my XS.
Is there a good website that easily teaches the difference and applications between the different light meter modes (center weight, ect) and other things? THanks!
Is there a good website that easily teaches the difference and applications between the different light meter modes (center weight, ect) and other things? THanks!
The_Inquisitor said:
There are some good intro guides to Nikon cameras that are put out by Thom Hogan
http://www.bythom.com/d60guide.htm
and
David Busch
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002POEQWM/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Congrats on the purchase, btw. You're going to love what a DSLR and Nikkor lenses will do for your photography.
Also, for people who want to upload their photos on the go - Best Buy has the Eye-Fi Pro on sale for $60 this week. Amazon keeps on price matching and then running out of stock and going back up to $90.
theusedversion
Member
The_Inquisitor said:
Thanks, I think I will go for the 50mm.
Fleet_of_Foot
Member
irfan said:
That's pretty awesome. I'm going to Target today.
WanderingWind
Mecklemore Is My Favorite Wrapper
So it looks like this is the lens I've been looking for - Tamron 28-75mm.
Why on earth is the Tamron lens $350 versus $1,200 for the Canon one though?
Why on earth is the Tamron lens $350 versus $1,200 for the Canon one though?
Fleet_of_Foot
Member
WanderingWind said:
Simplest answer I've been able to determine is this: Lenses are hard to make. It takes a lot of work and good materials to build a good lens. The Canon lenses are expensive because they've perfected the method of construction, they have the best build quality, and they're just better.
sixteen-bit
Member
This is pretty cool.irfan said:
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