• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

Status
Not open for further replies.

XMonkey

lacks enthusiasm.
how do I clean my 5D II sensor? It's pretty dirty. Can you just send it in to Canon and they'll do it? I did buy mine about 2.5 years ago though.
You can send it into Canon but it won't be free. They do a very good job of cleaning it. You can also buy sensor cleaning kits at most places, although I've heard it's a little hit or miss in terms of effectiveness.
 

Ember128

Member
how do I clean my 5D II sensor? It's pretty dirty. Can you just send it in to Canon and they'll do it? I did buy mine about 2.5 years ago though.
I would highly recommend using the Delkin Sensor Scope kit with the Vacuum instead of sending it off to Canon. I've heard things.

1. Give your battery a full charge.

2. Go Aperture priority, F/22, take a white piece of paper, overexpose by 1 1/3rd -> 2 stops, take a photo of it.

3. Take a look at the photo. Dust that appears in the top right corner is actually on the bottom left.

4. Lockup the mirror, and very gently, very carefully, use the vacuum the clean the sensor.

5. Never never never never never use the wet cleaning part of the kit. Unless you have condensation on your sensor, and then, only the smallest bit of the solution. Dumping a lot of solution onto the swab will destroy your sensor.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
The Tamron 17-50/2.8 is half that.

True, but in the long run the canon is cheaper. Loses less value if/when you sell it.

Really though a 2.8 is not going to give him that much noticeable AF improvement in low light. He needs a 1.8 prime. IMHO everyone needs a 1.8 prime! 1.4 or 1.2 if you can swing it :)

One thing I have found (not so sure about the T3 but most cameras are this way...) is that the center AF point is usually a cross type and the most sensitive. Most lenses (pretty much all consumer zooms) are also brightest and sharpest at the center so the AF has more to work with.
 

Danoss

Member
True, but in the long run the canon is cheaper. Loses less value if/when you sell it.

Really though a 2.8 is not going to give him that much noticeable AF improvement in low light. He needs a 1.8 prime. IMHO everyone needs a 1.8 prime! 1.4 or 1.2 if you can swing it :)

I'm seeing the loss of value for resale to actually be about the same for both the Canon and the Tamron, so in the long run, they both work out about the same. The difference in quality between the two aren't that great to warrant such a large initial outlay, despite the fact the Canon is out of his budget anyway, by a lot.

While a prime will perform better in low light, it's not going to give him any range to work with. Since these two things in tandem are what he's after, the Tamron is a great option. Saying a prime is superior in low light, while true, doesn't solve his problem.

A prime is great and is a valuable learning experience when it is the only lens on your body. If it's the only lens in your collection that needs to be applied to a multitude of different situations, it's frustrating.

One thing I have found (not so sure about the T3 but most cameras are this way...) is that the center AF point is usually a cross type and the most sensitive. Most lenses (pretty much all consumer zooms) are also brightest and sharpest at the center so the AF has more to work with.

Or if you have something like a 7D, they're all cross-type. :D
 

RuGalz

Member
The 28-80mm did the job pretty well and I got some stellar pics, but I definitely realized that I needed a better lens as the lowlight stuff (Coliseum at night) was maddening when using the AF.

What could help if you don't want to switch to MF completely or change lens is that, change the focus to center point only, point the camera at something that has contrast and is within the DOF of the main subject you want to take picture of to let the camera AF, switch to MF then re-frame. Obviously it's not going to work if the subject is moving; otherwise it works well.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
What could help if you don't want to switch to MF completely or change lens is that, change the focus to center point only, point the camera at something that has contrast and is within the DOF of the main subject you want to take picture of to let the camera AF, switch to MF then re-frame. Obviously it's not going to work if the subject is moving; otherwise it works well.

Anothing thing one could do if they're going to focus and recompose is split the function of the shutter button. When I had my camera I had it so the shutter button would lock exposure and the back * button would trigger the AF. You should be able to access this setting in the Custom Function area if using a Canon.
 
I would go for a prime then, a wide aperture zoom (like ef-s 17-55 2.8) is going to be up there in $1000 range.

While that looks to be a great lens, the price is beyond what I want to spend.

The Tamron 17-50/2.8 is half that.

This was one of the major things I saw when considering a lens. I hadn't ever considered an off-brand lens as I didn't really do any research into a new all purpose lens until I realized I needed and wanted something better.

True, but in the long run the canon is cheaper. Loses less value if/when you sell it.

Really though a 2.8 is not going to give him that much noticeable AF improvement in low light. He needs a 1.8 prime. IMHO everyone needs a 1.8 prime! 1.4 or 1.2 if you can swing it :)

One thing I have found (not so sure about the T3 but most cameras are this way...) is that the center AF point is usually a cross type and the most sensitive. Most lenses (pretty much all consumer zooms) are also brightest and sharpest at the center so the AF has more to work with.

I definitely want a low aperture prime and will probably take the plunge at some point. I'm going to start shooting with my 50mm prime and see what that is like. I like the idea of having to work harder to get the right picture and forcing to change my perspective.

I'm seeing the loss of value for resale to actually be about the same for both the Canon and the Tamron, so in the long run, they both work out about the same. The difference in quality between the two aren't that great to warrant such a large initial outlay, despite the fact the Canon is out of his budget anyway, by a lot.

While a prime will perform better in low light, it's not going to give him any range to work with. Since these two things in tandem are what he's after, the Tamron is a great option. Saying a prime is superior in low light, while true, doesn't solve his problem.

A prime is great and is a valuable learning experience when it is the only lens on your body. If it's the only lens in your collection that needs to be applied to a multitude of different situations, it's frustrating.



Or if you have something like a 7D, they're all cross-type. :D

This is the biggest thing. I was looking for a general all purpose lens that was of better quality, and all of the suggestions here have helped narrow it down.

What could help if you don't want to switch to MF completely or change lens is that, change the focus to center point only, point the camera at something that has contrast and is within the DOF of the main subject you want to take picture of to let the camera AF, switch to MF then re-frame. Obviously it's not going to work if the subject is moving; otherwise it works well.

That's an interesting idea. This sounds awful but I just noticed yesterday that I could have changed to center focus. Like I said, I'm still learning the ins and outs of my camera and photography in general. This trip really opened my eyes to the possibilities and I learned a ton of basic stuff by just doing it as opposed to trying to read a bevy of information that I was having a hard time grasping with no frame of reference.

Anothing thing one could do if they're going to focus and recompose is split the function of the shutter button. When I had my camera I had it so the shutter button would lock exposure and the back * button would trigger the AF. You should be able to access this setting in the Custom Function area if using a Canon.

This sounds intriguing and I'll be screwing with the custom stuff today.
 

Pepto

Banned
What are the best compact cameras now for low-light shooting then?

I think Canon G1X does ISOs up to 12800 but the lens is only 2.8. I'm not 100% sure but the Fujifilm FinePix X100 should be the best one out there. The lens is faster (2 vs 2.8) than the one in the Canon and it still does a pretty decent ISO 12800.
 
Thanks for all of the input on a lens to get. I went with the Tamron 17-50mm. After reading up on it, it seemed like the best bet. Also, I will definitely be getting the 50mm prime EF 1.8 Canon puts out, thanks to you guys as well, so I'm excited to start shooting with them.
 

giga

Member
T4i looks like the first real upgrade for the series. Apes a lot of xxD features except for the actual body. Pentaprism is surprising.

18 MP APS-C
SDHC slot, USH-1 complaint
Current xxD’s AF system (9 cross-type points, found in 40D, 50D, 60D)
T3i metering system (63 zones like 7D and 5DIII)
~5 fps
Pentaprism Viewfinder
ISO 100-12,800 expandable to 25,600
Articulated touchscreen LCD
Hybrid AF during video shooting

Touchscreen videos: http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/06/canon-eos-rebel-t4i650d-example-videos/
 
T4i looks like the first real upgrade for the series. Apes a lot of xxD features except for the actual body. Pentaprism is surprising.

18 MP APS-C
SDHC slot, USH-1 complaint
Current xxD’s AF system (9 cross-type points, found in 40D, 50D, 60D)
T3i metering system (63 zones like 7D and 5DIII)
~5 fps
Pentaprism Viewfinder
ISO 100-12,800 expandable to 25,600
Articulated touchscreen LCD
Hybrid AF during video shooting

Touchscreen videos: http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/06/canon-eos-rebel-t4i650d-example-videos/

How would the ISO be expandable?
 

tino

Banned
Could get is used so no money goes to them but I can see where you're coming from

I still think that's a cop out and indirectly give money to Nikon. Basically my purchase will take away one used lens from the market and maybe encourage the next guy to buy a new Nikon lens. I think I will just get the Voigtlander 58/1.4. It's better for APS anyway.

In other news, Sony totally blow the door open with the RX100 P&S. Thank god they announce the camera in time the Japanese P&S cameras almost lost the IQ crown to a Nokia phone lol.
 

Great King Bowser

Property of Kaz Harai
Im guessing just like me you went for those cameras instead of a pocket camera like the S100 because you crave the image quality.

I ended up getting a X100, on one hand the image quality is nice and also the looks of it really helps taking pictures in public without anyone noticing you there. On the other hand I miss my Canon P&S because they are freaking tanks and I would just take it out anywhere without fear of theft or accidents.

If I had the choice again I would still get the Fuji, they are beautiful and they produce awesome JPG, its exactly what I want from a non-dslr camera.

A plus with the G12, is that you can use any flashes that you own for the 40D, then again, using a Flash in a camera like this looks a bit silly.

YN565EX%252520with%252520G12%252520and%252520580EX%252520gb111027%252520-%252520011%252520%252528web%252529%25255B3%25255D.jpg

Yep, that's precisely why I was looking at the two. I just want something I can throw into a bag, pockets aren't so important.

Did you mean the X100 or the X10? Not sure I can justify spending that much on an X100 for a second camera. :p
 

tino

Banned
They are a global corporation and they don't want to receive death threats. The ultra nationalists within Japan are extremely insane. Can't blame them for not taking a stance.

I am not trying to convince anyone else to do so, just want to vote with my own wallet.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Very tempted by the 650d when the price has settled down . Don't suppose it has dual dials. (wishful thinking on my part).

Don't care about touch but everything else is very cool, especially the metering and AF

Is the 18-135IS a new model?
 

VNZ

Member
Ugh, even though I love the results my 5D mark II gives (and my 500D before it) seeing another Canon DSLR update is always equally depressing, design-wise. Sure, the ergonomics are alright (not amazing, really), but these bland black blobby camera designs are just so got damn forgettable. Bring on some new finishes and shapes, Canon and Nikon.
 

RuGalz

Member
Ugh, even though I love the results my 5D mark II gives (and my 500D before it) seeing another Canon DSLR update is always equally depressing, design-wise. Sure, the ergonomics are alright (not amazing, really), but these bland black blobby camera designs are just so got damn forgettable. Bring on some new finishes and shapes, Canon and Nikon.

Can't get caught copying Pentax - a brand no one gives a second look at - can they? ;) I guess Nikon has started to do colors with entry level ones. I doubt we will see much color variation with high end models though since they are typically made of metal instead of plastic. And there's always that stigma that if the camera isn't black you are not 'professional' or even good enough. I have no idea how many times people commented on my previous white camera looking awesome but thought it was a toy; until I showed them the results anyway.

 

tino

Banned
Ugh, even though I love the results my 5D mark II gives (and my 500D before it) seeing another Canon DSLR update is always equally depressing, design-wise. Sure, the ergonomics are alright (not amazing, really), but these bland black blobby camera designs are just so got damn forgettable. Bring on some new finishes and shapes, Canon and Nikon.

They have been looking like this since the first film EOS camera.
 

giga

Member
Welp. Anyone have a samyang/rokinon 14mm? Bought it without even thinking. All the samples I see look amazing and photozone practically jizzed all over its MTF figures. Don't need AF when shooting landscapes!

mtf.png
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
Welp. Anyone have a samyang/rokinon 14mm? Bought it without even thinking. All the samples I see look amazing and photozone practically jizzed all over its MTF figures. Don't need AF when shooting landscapes!

mtf.png

I've heard great thing about it. Only issues are the build quality in the insane amount of distortion.
 

VNZ

Member
They have been looking like this since the first film EOS camera.
Exactly. For no real good reason, I'd say. The 1D's are one thing, they might as well look like that for pragmatic, on-the-field, reasons. But the 5D series, which is obviously more geared towards studio, landscape and street use could for example take cues from classic medium format cameras, or in some other way enable better waist-level operation. I don't know, I'm just bored with the exceedingly utilitarian design of these things.
 

giga

Member
I've heard great thing about it. Only issues are the build quality in the insane amount of distortion.
Yeah, distortion was the main drawback I've read about. Hopefully it's not too big of a deal since LR corrects it so easily now. It's just the insane MTF and minimal CA that drew me in.

I looked at the Canon 14mm and it looked pretty nice until I saw the $2000+ price. I think sacrificing AF but maintaining very similar optics at $300 was a good choice…hopefully.

Now if only we could get a full frame for $1000.

Gotta hate those LBA. LOL
I know right. I've been off the itch for a while now but primes + good prices always lures me back in.
 

waxer

Member
Exactly. For no real good reason, I'd say. The 1D's are one thing, they might as well look like that for pragmatic, on-the-field, reasons. But the 5D series, which is obviously more geared towards studio, landscape and street use could for example take cues from classic medium format cameras, or in some other way enable better waist-level operation. I don't know, I'm just bored with the exceedingly utilitarian design of these things.

Either its durable or colorful IMO. Black is going to hide dings, marks and shadows better than a color finish. At least that is what I have found with most my electronics like cellphones.
 

tino

Banned
Camera gaf..

whats opinion of the pureview 800?

I know its a camera phone..not a replacement for a real camera..

Its 808. Image quality is better than every current point and shoot camera except the RX100. But it has no zoom and no "camera" features. It also has a retarded smartphone OS. Hopefully Nokia will bring it to the US so you can pick it up for cheap when Nokia get brought out.
 

Its 808. Image quality is better than every current point and shoot camera except the RX100. But it has no zoom and no "camera" features. It also has a retarded smartphone OS. Hopefully Nokia will bring it to the US so you can pick it up for cheap when Nokia get brought out.

oops typo..

so not worth importing?
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
oops typo..

so not worth importing?

If you want a fixed focal length (as in it will not zoom) Point and Shoot and can live with the awful OS (Nokia's Symbian) then I'd say go for it. I mean, as long as it can make calls and whatnot. If you wait you'll probably see this camera system in their Windows Phone 8 phones this Fall with a far better OS. From the samples I've seen the quality is the real deal as far as being far ahead of the game.
 

XMonkey

lacks enthusiasm.
Exactly. For no real good reason, I'd say. The 1D's are one thing, they might as well look like that for pragmatic, on-the-field, reasons. But the 5D series, which is obviously more geared towards studio, landscape and street use could for example take cues from classic medium format cameras, or in some other way enable better waist-level operation. I don't know, I'm just bored with the exceedingly utilitarian design of these things.
Can't say I agree. I don't give two thoughts to how my DSLR looks, only how it performs in my hand and what kinds of images it produces.

Maybe Canon will get stylish with their mirrorless camera, but I want the DSLRs to stay how they are for the most part.
 

Dreaver

Member
I have a Cannon Rebel T2i (EOS 550D) and I am looking for a decent (not too expensive) tripod.

- I'd like to use it for movie recording mostly, so the option for fluid pans would be nice.
- I'd prefer to spend around €50-100 ($60-125) and not too much above it.
- I am using the kitlens and a Rode videomic and I don't expect to use any heavy lenses.
- I would to expand my accessories like a nice viewfinder but I am not in a mood to spend a lot of money (which I probably will have to do...) if people have any tips for *must have* cheap accessories for my T2i I'd love to hear it (Ebay and such).

If it matters.. I live in the Netherlands and I would like some advice for a nice tripod.
 
If you want a fixed focal length (as in it will not zoom) Point and Shoot and can live with the awful OS (Nokia's Symbian) then I'd say go for it. I mean, as long as it can make calls and whatnot. If you wait you'll probably see this camera system in their Windows Phone 8 phones this Fall with a far better OS. From the samples I've seen the quality is the real deal as far as being far ahead of the game.

I already have a decent android phone that I will keep, so I can live with the crappy OS.

I just want something to bring with me when I go hiking ...or anywhere I won't be browsing the internet.
 

RuGalz

Member
Either its durable or colorful IMO. Black is going to hide dings, marks and shadows better than a color finish. At least that is what I have found with most my electronics like cellphones.

That's not true. I can't speak for other brands but the colored Pentax cameras don't just have color coding on the exterior, the entire plastic is that color inside out. So scratches are not any more visible than on the black body. I dropped my previous camera once and the scratches were pretty much not visible until I pointed it out to the person I sold it to.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
I already have a decent android phone that I will keep, so I can live with the crappy OS.

I just want something to bring with me when I go hiking ...or anywhere I won't be browsing the internet.

In that case I think it'd be best to get a dedicated camera to bring along with your Android unless I'm missing a reason for having two smartphones? Pureview is supposed to be pretty good but I believe this is in the context of other smartphones and average P&S. For the cost of the 808 you could get the new Sony RX100 (as suggested by Tino). They both share an aspect too, they both using the same lens manufacture, Zeiss.
 

Danoss

Member
I have a Cannon Rebel T2i (EOS 550D) and I am looking for a decent (not too expensive) tripod.

- I'd like to use it for movie recording mostly, so the option for fluid pans would be nice.
- I'd prefer to spend around €50-100 ($60-125) and not too much above it.
- I am using the kitlens and a Rode videomic and I don't expect to use any heavy lenses.
- I would to expand my accessories like a nice viewfinder but I am not in a mood to spend a lot of money (which I probably will have to do...) if people have any tips for *must have* cheap accessories for my T2i I'd love to hear it (Ebay and such).

A tripod is one thing you definitely don't want to cheap out on, and with a budget like that, it's all you're going to get. If you double your budget and add a bit more, then you'll be able to find something that's worthwhile owing. If not, you're looking a a cheapy, but don't say I didn't warn you if something unfortunate happens to your camera equipment. Please don't read this as condescending or whatever, I'm just telling you how I see it.

There might be some better suited stuff out there for video, but I currently use Manfrotto tripods and ballheads for my photography. They offer fluid heads for video and looking at them, your budget barely covers the cheapest appropriate fluid heads, let alone the legs to attach it to. I use the Manfrotto 190XPROB legs, but if you're a taller person that me, which is quite likely, the 055XPROB are a better option, again these legs a lone are already outside your budget and they're not terribly expensive at all. They are photography legs though and it seems that video uses different legs for some reason or another, perhaps for dolly attachments and such. I'm not up on the whys and such for video but since you're using a DSLR, photography equipment might suit just fine.

Photography and videography can be rather expensive hobbies depending on how deep you go, corners can be cut in a number of areas with minimal or no consequence to the quality of output, or safety of your equipment; a tripod is not one of these things. I can't stress enough that it's not worth cheaping out on a tripod since if you buy right, you buy it once and that's it.

With all that said, maybe none of what I said applies to the video arena and maybe there's some secret that I don't know of that will save you money, though unlikely. In any case, the Video and Fimmaking Thread might be able to offer some advice, though it's not the fastest moving thread around.
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
you're pretty much dead on. Buy a more expensive tripod now or pay more in the long run by buying multiple cheap ones as you build up to more expensive ones.
 
So I'm going to start taking photos at a nightclub. What camera is going to be the best bang for my buck?

I'm looking for something where I can get the whole kit for $250-350 on Ebay.

A reference group for this would be the Canon EOS Digital Rebel XTi or the Sony α (alpha) NEX-5. (The former is what the other camera person has).

May main concerns are:
- Looks great in the darkish club setting (can't find the words for this)
- Good battery life
- Reliable brand
- Something where I can really play around with the aperture
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom