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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

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Danoss

Member
So I'm going to start taking photos at a nightclub. What camera is going to be the best bang for my buck?

I'm looking for something where I can get the whole kit for $250-350 on Ebay.

NdKa6.jpg

"Furthermore to this beer, I would also like three of your finest, cheapest cigars. Here's my ID which confirms my adultivity."

You're asking to put a cheap SLR camera in one of the most difficult lighting situations there is. I take it you're relatively new to this whole camera thing?

If you add a decent wide angle lens and an external flash and off-shoe TTL cable or wireless triggers to the mix, then you're starting to get somewhere. Without these things you're going to be struggling to take pictures that would be worthwhile.

This video is quite old, but the guy has the right idea. I'll let someone else fill in the gaps.
 

Antiwhippy

the holder of the trombone
If you'd want to take photos in a dark/low light setting like that I'd say it's going to be very hard to find a camera/lens combo that can deliver satisfactory performance at that price, unless you're okay with using mediocre flashes.

One good way to improve your flash though is you can put a plastic cup over to diffuse it.

If not though the Nex can go to higher ISOs, though I wouldn't use it pass 1600. It's selection of fast lenses are pretty mediocre compared to the canon though, and you can probably find the canon 50mm/1.8 (which would allow you to take low light photos better) pretty cheap.

Also what kind of photos are you taking in the club? Portraiture? The 50mm/1.8 on an XTI should be pretty good at that.
 
NdKa6.jpg

"Furthermore to this beer, I would also like three of your finest, cheapest cigars. Here's my ID which confirms my adultivity."

You're asking to put a cheap SLR camera in one of the most difficult lighting situations there is. I take it you're relatively new to this whole camera thing?

If you add a decent wide angle lens and an external flash and off-shoe TTL cable or wireless triggers to the mix, then you're starting to get somewhere. Without these things you're going to be struggling to take pictures that would be worthwhile.

This video is quite old, but the guy has the right idea. I'll let someone else fill in the gaps.

Okay, than something that is similar to that Canon Xti as thats acceptable enough (maybe not for pros like you, but for what I'm doing its satisfactory as thats what the other camera man uses whos been there for years.). Your definition of "good enough" and mine are likely very different.


Also what kind of photos are you taking in the club? Portraiture? The 50mm/1.8 on an XTI should be pretty good at that.

Just picture of people in the crowd. Again the other camera man uses that Canon I linked earlier and the owners have no problem with it at all. I don't need something very high end, just something that can do the job. Thats why I used those cameras as a reference group. This isn't for a magazine but for facebook.
 

Danoss

Member
Your definition of "good enough" and mine are likely very different.

Clearly.

WGdB6.jpg


If you're looking for images like this, you're on the right track.

Fake edit: I just realised that I've made the mistake of misreading your post. You wanted something that suited your budget, not something appropriate for the job. My apologies.
 

RuGalz

Member
Okay, than something that is similar to that Canon Xti as thats acceptable enough (maybe not for pros like you, but for what I'm doing its satisfactory as thats what the other camera man uses whos been there for years.). Your definition of "good enough" and mine are likely very different.

A Pentax K-x (a bit better than Xti but much better low light performance) and an used manual Pentax-M 50mm f1.7 (runs around $50 usually). Might work for you.
 

Ember128

Member
After 10+ years of Canon DSLRs I am seriously considering jumping ship to Nikon.

I think the D800 offers a better value proposition for what I want to do.

I'm renting a 5D Mark III this weekend and then a D800 a week or two after. It should be interesting since I have literally never so much as held a Nikon DSLR before.
It depends on what you shoot.

If you shoot landscapes, the D800 is the better camera, definitely. If you want to make large (bigger than 12 x 18) prints, the D800 is better.

If you do not want to deal with Moire', or need a faster framerate here and there, or (somewhat better) low light performance, then the 5DMKIII is the better option.

Keep in mind that while a Camera can have a 22, or 36, or in the future, an even higher MP sensors, the truth is that what the best Canon/Nikon lenses can resolve is only about 11MP, and that's something like the Canon 24mm F1.8 L, which is a godly prime lens among prime lenses. I asked the local Nikon Rep whether lenses exist that can resolve 36MP. He said there was a few that can. I asked him to put which lenses can in writing for me. He refused to do so.
 
Clearly.

WGdB6.jpg


If you're looking for images like this, you're on the right track.

Fake edit: I just realised that I've made the mistake of misreading your post. You wanted something that suited your budget, not something appropriate for the job. My apologies.


Actually the images are like this:
CNSfj.jpg


This was taken with that Canon. Again not professional quality but this the level it needs to be.
 
Clearly.

WGdB6.jpg


If you're looking for images like this, you're on the right track.

Fake edit: I just realised that I've made the mistake of misreading your post. You wanted something that suited your budget, not something appropriate for the job. My apologies.


Actually the images are like this:
CNSfj.jpg


This was taken with that Canon. Again not professional quality but this the level it needs to be.
 

Antiwhippy

the holder of the trombone
For that you need a pretty good flash, not the one built in.

Though you can improve it by diffusing it with a white plastic cup.
 
May main concerns are:
- Looks great in the darkish club setting (can't find the words for this)
- Good battery life
- Reliable brand
- Something where I can really play around with the aperture
- By "looks great," you mean the images the camera produces look great, right? If you know how to use the equipment, anything should meet your requirements.
- Battery life isn't going to be a real concern, cameras aren't smartphones.
- Any of the brands getting tossed around here on a regular basis are reliable enough.
- Just get a lens with a wide aperture in your price range. Given your price range, look for a used, wide prime. f/2.8 or faster.

Couple of points of advice:
- Consider getting whatever the other guy is shooting so you can borrow equipment.
- With your price range, off-camera lighting is right out. Use the built-in flash, but diffuse it with something like this.
- Also with your price range, consider getting just a used body only, then add the lens you want separately. Normally, I recommend getting the kit lens because it's a really cheap way to get another lens, but you need every dollar.

Okay, than something that is similar to that Canon Xti as thats acceptable enough (maybe not for pros like you, but for what I'm doing its satisfactory as thats what the other camera man uses whos been there for years.)
The body's not going to be the problem, the lens is.
 
Now this is what I expected some great advice.

How much would a decent flash cost used?

A Pentax K-x (a bit better than Xti but much better low light performance) and an used manual Pentax-M 50mm f1.7 (runs around $50 usually). Might work for you.

So wait the Pentax is better in low light performance than the Xti?
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick

RuGalz

Member
So wait the Pentax is better in low light performance than the Xti?

Compared K-x to Xti, quite a bit better. Plus it has in body image stabilization so you still get that benefit with old manual lenses. But it looks like the type of shot you want is with flash anyway so maybe it doesn't matter that much.
 
Compared K-x to Xti, quite a bit better. Plus it has in body image stabilization so you still get that benefit with old manual lenses. But it looks like the type of shot you want is with flash anyway so maybe it doesn't matter that much.

I was leaning to the alpha I posted earlier (how is that) but I think I"ll just get a K-x with that lens you recommended. What type of flash should I get for my budget?
 

RuGalz

Member
I was leaning to the alpha I posted earlier (how is that) but I think I"ll just get a K-x with that lens you recommended. What type of flash should I get for my budget?

I found a Pentax AF-200FG for $50 on eBay... But if it's hard to find, I think you can just use any cheap 3rd party flash (like Yongnuo/Promaster) and manual control it. It shouldn't be too hard since the condition doesn't change drastically... I'm sure a lot of older Pentax made flash works too but I'm not familiar with them.

Edit: You said you want something that has great battery life. K-x is about average, nothing phenomenal. But it uses AA batteries, which can be pros or cons to you.
 

RuGalz

Member
How long do the batteries last? I mean in the setting I'm doing them in?

It really just depends on how much you use the LCD screen on the back. When I was out shooting at night a few times, for about 4-5 hour sessions, the batteries didn't die on me. (No flash and only review pictures every now and then.) It will out-last the batteries in the external flash most likely.

Here are the official ratings...

K-x battery life: AA lithium batteries 1900 pictures 1110 pictures (with flash used for 50% of pictures) 680 minutes playback

AA NI-MH batteries 640 pictures 420 pictures (with flash used for 50% of pictures) 390 minutes playback

AA alkaline batteries 210 pictures 130 pictures (with flash used for 50% of pictures) 350 minutes playback
 

Danoss

Member
Actually the images are like this:
CNSfj.jpg


This was taken with that Canon. Again not professional quality but this the level it needs to be.

Oh look, there's an external flash used to take that image. Did I say that was a good idea in my first response? Yes I did. If you take that thing off the camera body with a TTL cord or wireless triggers you can get even more creative and have more control over direction of light and how those shadows fall in that sample image. Did I mention that too? Yes again.

I bet you didn't even watch the video I linked which gives you an idea why it's a good idea to try these things (the video is old, but the XTi you looked at is older than the video). It even gives you sample settings so you don't even need to understand what dragging the shutter is or does as you can just shoot, move the camera and presto, club-style images with ambient light and the light trails people like so much if you're in the right spot.

If you want some decent flash options, look at the real SLR options that people are throwing at you. If you go with that NEX, you have no hotshoe, so no external flash for you, which is not good for the photography you're planning on doing.
 
SquirrelKiller, what type of lens would you recommend?

Oh look, there's an external flash used to take that image. Did I say that was a good idea in my first response? Yes I did. If you take that thing off the camera body with a TTL cord or wireless triggers you can get even more creative and have more control over direction of light and how those shadows fall in that sample image. Did I mention that too? Yes again.

I bet you didn't even watch the video I linked which gives you an idea why it's a good idea to try these things (the video is old, but the XTi you looked at is older than the video). It even gives you sample settings so you don't even need to understand what dragging the shutter is or does as you can just shoot, move the camera and presto, club-style images with ambient light and the light trails people like so much if you're in the right spot.

What are you trying to get at with the tone of this post?

Not to mention all of your posts have been smuggy without any reason to be well smuggy. First you act condescending toward me for me asking which camera would be the best bang for my buck for me in a certain price range, I even reinforce this statement by posting other cameras that are in my reference group. Then you try to troll me by linking some photo someone took with their iPhone or something.

Now you are calling me out for not talking about external flash (I did just a few posts above yours, did you not notice it or did you misread that too). You now go on about creative little things I can do with the camera. Well that would be cool if I asked in my post "getting a camera need some tips" but no that is not what I asked in my post I specifically asked "hey what type of camera should I buy". Of course I'm not going to watch the video you posted, because you aren't giving anything I asked for. And now you are criticizing me for not looking at the "real" SLR options people are giving me and stop stubbornly going with the NEX when in reality there's been little (if any) other suggestions thus far.

So again whats with the attitude? Are you just bored or what?

It really just depends on how much you use the LCD screen on the back. When I was out shooting at night a few times, for about 4-5 hour sessions, the batteries didn't die on me. (No flash and only review pictures every now and then.) It will out-last the batteries in the external flash most likely.

Here are the official ratings...

K-x battery life: AA lithium batteries 1900 pictures 1110 pictures (with flash used for 50% of pictures) 680 minutes playback

AA NI-MH batteries 640 pictures 420 pictures (with flash used for 50% of pictures) 390 minutes playback

AA alkaline batteries 210 pictures 130 pictures (with flash used for 50% of pictures) 350 minutes playback

Thanks. That should do fine
 
If his budget is really inflexible, he could get away with going with an older, used dSLR that has a built in flash and just using a home-made diffuser on it. Yeah, it'll be more flat than with an external flash, but it'll get him photos that he's fine with even if most of the guys in this thread wouldn't be.

If you're going to be using flash, you don't need a 1.4 or 1.8 lens.
 

Danoss

Member
What are you trying to get at with the tone of this post?

Not to mention all of your posts have been smuggy without any reason to be well smuggy, its just really weird.

Aaaand I'm done assisting newbies. If you don't handhold them through everything, it's not good enough, especially these days where a little bit of knowledge is dangerous. You caught me on a bad day so I didn't go through every little detail to solve your problem, sorry it wasn't good enough for you.

Grab a used S95 and knock yourself out.

I haven't done a lot of club shooting, but wouldn't he be killing the ambient at f/4 or f/5.6?

Flash is controlled by aperture, ambient light is controlled by shutter speed.

With that, I am done.
 
Aaaand I'm done assisting newbies. If you don't handhold them through everything, it's not good enough, especially these days where a little bit of knowledge is dangerous. You caught me on a bad day so I didn't go through every little detail to solve your problem, sorry it wasn't good enough for you.

This is hilarious.
 
Could probably achieve that with any camera that can take an off body flash. So maybe a cheap Rebel with a Canon 430EX II?
Can you walk me through the lighting on this one? To me, it doesn't look like the pop-up flash, but it definitely look on axis and only a little higher than the camera.

Flash is controlled by aperture, ambient light is controlled by shutter speed.
The ambient in his example doesn't look slow.

SquirrelKiller, what type of lens would you recommend?
I have to re-iterate that I haven't done a lot of this type of shooting. One time when I went as a second shooter for a party in similar lighting conditions, the first shooter ran with a kit lens and a diffused flash. Decent shots of the subjects, but no ambient to speak of.

I would try to ape whatever the first shooter has within your budget constraints, the clients seem to like his photos and you can swap gear if you go with the same brand. I don't know the Pentex line up, but for Canon, I'd get a used body (whatever in the Rebel line that has the same or more resolution (if they're used to 12mp images, you don't want to start giving them 8mp images) is fine,) a used EF 28mm f/2.8 or EF 35 mm f/2, and either that commercial pop-flash diffuser or build a DIY version. If you need the zoom, stick with the kit lens and keep the aperture as wide as possible.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
Can you walk me through the lighting on this one? To me, it doesn't look like the pop-up flash, but it definitely look on axis and only a little higher than the camera.

Judging from the highlights and shadows it looks like the flash was head on. I'm thinking an stronger flash was used since the illumination looks nice and even between the three subjects. So off body flash which tends to add height to where the flash is coming from.

The photog seemed to account for the ambient light too which I think is why the photo doesn't scream flash photography since the subjects aren't taking over in regards to exposure. Or he/she shot as they usually do but the illuminated bar added to the ambient light.

Definitely stopped down to some degree or using a slow zoom.
 
flying phoenix i'd say just pick up any NEX kit with the 16mm f/2.8 pancake lens and the bigger flash. it's not the best lens in the world but it's pretty much perfect for club shots, and that kit has the advantage of being a lot more convenient to lug around at night than a DSLR.

don't have any examples of the style you shot because anything i use flash for i tend to go for lower shutter speeds (which i like for preserving ambience), but this was with a NEX-3 and the shitty little clip-on flash. a little overboard but here you are:

kySu2.jpg


i'm sure with more judicious flash work you could recreate a facebooky style!
 
Well thanks a lot people. I have an idea of what I want. Great recommendations.

flying phoenix i'd say just pick up any NEX kit with the 16mm f/2.8 pancake lens and the bigger flash. it's not the best lens in the world but it's pretty much perfect for club shots, and that kit has the advantage of being a lot more convenient to lug around at night than a DSLR.

don't have any examples of the style you shot because anything i use flash for i tend to go for lower shutter speeds (which i like for preserving ambience), but this was with a NEX-3 and the shitty little clip-on flash. a little overboard but here you are:

kySu2.jpg


i'm sure with more judicious flash work you could recreate a facebooky style!

Thanks.



Love the late edit mate, don't talk to me about attitude. I've got some water here if you need to wash that sand out of your vagina.

Do you really have nothing better to do than try to get a reaction from people over the internet asking for information about a camera? lol Holy shit. And I thought I did stupid shit kill time. "Sand in your vagina", well that must have took you the whole night to figure out, a common insult phrase that was popularized when most were in adolescence. Don't bother typing anything else cause I won't respond, actually no, type something, anything, I'll enjoy wasting your time.
 

Pepto

Banned
I've shot a few nightclubs. In my experience you need one of the following setups: a great camera with a 1.4 or faster lens that is quite a bit wider than what a 50mm is on a APS-C sensor or just about any camera body, a decent flash and a fast lens.

The thing is that you can't get either of these setups for cheap.
 

XMonkey

lacks enthusiasm.
If you're getting paid (please tell me you are), maybe look into renting a camera and flash for the first few gigs? $250ish is pretty tough to work with for that environment.
 

phisheep

NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
I've shot a few nightclubs. In my experience you need one of the following setups: a great camera with a 1.4 or faster lens that is quite a bit wider than what a 50mm is on a APS-C sensor or just about any camera body, a decent flash and a fast lens.

The thing is that you can't get either of these setups for cheap.

You sure about that?

I'm by no means a regular at nightclubs, not for the last 30 years anyway, but I guess so long as you have a decent flash preferably off-cam then a bit of messing with the shutter speed would do it, no need to kill the ambient, but on the other hand a bit of motion blur in the background won't do anything but add to the atmosphere.

All I'm saying is maybe you don't totally need a super-fast lens here.
 

Danoss

Member
If you're getting paid (please tell me you are)

Damn, I hope not. A person who has the absolute vaguest grasp of photography, hasn't yet owned an SLR, and you hope they already has a paying job lined up? It's those who operate and charge for services when they don't have the requisite skill and necessary equipment that contribute greatly to giving photographers a bad name.

I like watching footy on TV, maybe I should try my hand at coaching...

All I'm saying is maybe you don't totally need a super-fast lens here.

You don't, it's fascinating to read stuff like that. I shoot macro photography with a lens stopped down to f/8 or f/11 for decent DOF with a flash and can still get tack sharp images.

For nightclub photography, a low power flash will freeze the motion, flood the subjects with sufficient light, and you can drag the shutter for some ambient light. Second curtain flash will usually stop people from moving too much before you're done.

Shooting wide open on a fast prime is a sure-fire way to get OOF images of people, especially when the subjects don't really want to stick around for a number of shots to make sure you nailed it. The difficulty is multiplied since couples and friends are often photographed together and not often on the same focal plane.

But I'm a troll apparently, so none of the above counts for much.
 

XMonkey

lacks enthusiasm.
Damn, I hope not. A person who has the absolute vaguest grasp of photography, hasn't yet owned an SLR, and you hope they already has a paying job lined up? It's those who operate and charge for services when they don't have the requisite skill and necessary equipment that contribute greatly to giving photographers a bad name.

I like watching footy on TV, maybe I should try my hand at coaching...
No, it's doing work for free (even if it's not much because you're new) that ruins it for the rest of us photographers.
 

Danoss

Member
No, it's doing work for free (even if it's not much because you're new) that ruins it for the rest of us photographers.

A whole different argument, and one I completely disagree with. The ones that are working for free aren't taking jobs that would ever be offered to photographers worth their salt.

Edit: Watch this hilarious video of a terrible wedding photographer who charged for their services and turned up with entry level equipment. Tell me they don't make other photographers look bad. She charged $1300, that money could have gone to an honest photographer with real skills and decent equipment to get the job done. I've seen some wedding photographers in my area who charge $1200 and they should honestly charge more.
 

RuGalz

Member
Thanks. That should do fine

Since I don't really know how big the club is and what exactly you want to achieve or your experience with manual focusing etc, I just gave you what I think would perform the best within your budget. But the lens might be too long for your situation or focusing might be too difficult, so YMMV, definitely read up on them before diving in imo.

Edit: Also, with the example you showed us, the usual 18-55mm kit lens with external flash should do a fine job; no need for something special. But I will say, the M 50mm f1.7 is cheap and fun to play with and has great optical quality for the price.
 

RuGalz

Member
Edit: Watch this hilarious video of a terrible wedding photographer who charged for their services and turned up with entry level equipment. Tell me they don't make other photographers look bad. She charged $1300, that money could have gone to an honest photographer with real skills and decent equipment to get the job done. I've seen some wedding photographers in my area who charge $1200 and they should honestly charge more.

Man I'm not a pro but it always makes me wonder why I'm not doing weddings every time I see photographers with worse gears and probably same level of skill as me, other than I'd feel guilty cuz I know my skill level isn't there and give pros bad reps!
 
That really is a shame, I'll surely miss your expert grasp of the photographic medium and your yearning for knowledge. You've certainly showed me up.
You really come across as quite a dickhead in this thread. Go get laid before erupting at people for asking questions you don't feel are good enough.
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
It depends on what you shoot.

If you shoot landscapes, the D800 is the better camera, definitely. If you want to make large (bigger than 12 x 18) prints, the D800 is better.

If you do not want to deal with Moire', or need a faster framerate here and there, or (somewhat better) low light performance, then the 5DMKIII is the better option.

Keep in mind that while a Camera can have a 22, or 36, or in the future, an even higher MP sensors, the truth is that what the best Canon/Nikon lenses can resolve is only about 11MP, and that's something like the Canon 24mm F1.8 L, which is a godly prime lens among prime lenses. I asked the local Nikon Rep whether lenses exist that can resolve 36MP. He said there was a few that can. I asked him to put which lenses can in writing for me. He refused to do so.

two things.
You're almost never going to see moire on the d800. I've read several articles on luminous landscape, where they tried to get it to produce moire and it couldnt. And two if it produces moire other cameras are going to produce moire in the same situation. Also moire will never occur in a landscape situation, because natures patterns are random.

Of course the nikon rep isn't going to write down lenses that he thinks can resolve the full power of the sensor, because he knows your going to do exactly what you did, come here and other places on the internet and claim that he said something and get him in trouble because you now have it in writing.

also the best canikon lenses only resolving 11mp? thats not even close to accurate.
Off the top of my head i would say the nikkor 300f4, 400f2.8 500f4 and 600f4 could all resolve it.


@danoss - you really did come off harsh. Yes we get newbie questions from time to time if you can't deal with that dont post.


However, if you come in and ask a question and multiple people take the time to respond and basically say the same thing, they might be on to something.
 

XMonkey

lacks enthusiasm.
A whole different argument, and one I completely disagree with. The ones that are working for free aren't taking jobs that would ever be offered to photographers worth their salt.
I disagree. From my experience in in big markets like LA, a lot of people get away with cheap/no-pay for good gigs because there are good photographers out there who are willing to work for nothing just to get experience. It lowers rates for every photographer.

Edit: Watch this hilarious video of a terrible wedding photographer who charged for their services and turned up with entry level equipment. Tell me they don't make other photographers look bad. She charged $1300, that money could have gone to an honest photographer with real skills and decent equipment to get the job done. I've seen some wedding photographers in my area who charge $1200 and they should honestly charge more.
Funny video, but I'd appreciate it if you could explain why some shitty photographer ruins it for the good photographers. People making a poor choice when hiring a photographer isn't a very compelling case as it happens all the time. I have a portfolio of work and a client is welcome to evaluate my rates based on that work. Someones shitty experience with a bad photographer doesn't really have much to do with me. They aren't going to swear off all photographers based on one bad experience.
 

Pepto

Banned
About the resolving power of modern lenses.

This is a 1:1 crop from a 16mpix APS-C camera with a lens wide open (1.4):

DSC_3888.jpg
 

Danoss

Member
Man I'm not a pro but it always makes me wonder why I'm not doing weddings every time I see photographers with worse gears and probably same level of skill as me, other than I'd feel guilty cuz I know my skill level isn't there.

I've considered it, but it truly is the one of the most difficult areas of photography to do well. The equipment needed to do it right is expensive, especially since you need backups of that or similar equipment in case of failure. Your organisational and people skills need to be top notch so you can get the right people together and the images you require as efficiently as possible, since many of them are impatient.

I've been asked on a few occasions to shoot peoples weddings for them and have declined each time. I was asked again today actually by a friend to shoot his in December. I'll bring my camera and take photos anyway, and they're welcome to the images, but they have to get their own photographer.

One day I may show some photos around to some established wedding photographers and see if I can assist them. That's the best way to get experience if you want to eventually go your own way and do it yourself. You get the feel for the flow of a wedding, so it's much easier to predict and be ready for certain shots you'll need and that will sell. You can't mess up too bad as you're usually getting some of the filler shots like the preparation of the bridal parties, the rings, different angles of the ceremony, and the reception of course. Most of those shots won't sell anyway, though if you grab good photos of the flower girl, page boy and some other kids, some of those will sell quite well indeed.

It's all experience and if you don't end up enjoying it (cause it's certainly not for everyone) you'll at least learn something that'll make you a better photographer.

You really come across as quite a dickhead in this thread. Go get laid before erupting at people for asking questions you don't feel are good enough.

Haha, really? Where exactly did I erupt? I may have been a little condescending in my initial reply, but erupting, hardly. There was info in that reply that has been echoed and fleshed out in later posts by others in this thread, perhaps you missed that. Maybe you instead want to focus on where all contents of my post were ignored for containing mild condescension, and I pointed that out, to receive a hilariously long and angry reply. How dare I make light of someone wanting equipment to perform out of its depth, cause that never happens on these forums to worse degrees, for far less, right?

Why don't you offer some constructive advice to that person instead of charging in here calling people names?

@danoss - you really did come off harsh. Yes we get newbie questions from time to time if you can't deal with that dont post.

I usually don't mind, but that one was comical. While harsh, there was useful information in my post, not in great detail, but it was there. That video was useful too, they were free to ignore all of it, and they certainly did. I'm glad I didn't put any further effort into it.

If this thread had started off better instead of evolving into its current state, we could have an OP with information about different equipment that people could be pointed to and could be updated from time to time as things change. Not much of a concern doing this, things really don't move that quickly in the camera world.

Now, let's have more people tell me how shitty I was, because the message hasn't been received at all.

I disagree. From my experience in in big markets like LA, a lot of people get away with cheap/no-pay for good gigs because there are good photographers out there who are willing to work for nothing just to get experience. It lowers rates for every photographer.

How long do you think free photography is sustainable for these people? Until housing, food, electricity, camera and computer equipment, studio space, make-up artists, assistants and so on become free, I would say not very long at all. The places that are willing to exploit free photographers do so, mostly because they weren't willing to pay someone to do it anyway.

I don't hear anyone complaining about interns at different companies. Technically they're taking jobs away from people who are experienced in those areas, but the employers weren't willing to pay anyone for the job anyway, so what's the harm really?

XMonkey said:
Funny video, but I'd appreciate it if you could explain why some shitty photographer ruins it for the good photographers. People making a poor choice when hiring a photographer isn't a very compelling case as it happens all the time. I have a portfolio of work and a client is welcome to evaluate my rates based on that work. Someones shitty experience with a bad photographer doesn't really have much to do with me. They aren't going to swear off all photographers based on one bad experience.

You didn't see that in the video, why they make good photographers look bad? They charged $1300 for that rubbish. I know people who currently charge about the same and output amazing work. Weddings are pretty serious, and photography is often of the lowest importance. Now, people see that crap, hear about it from others, and tell others about it. One thought process is "Clearly the people in that price range aren't worth it, they're too cheap and it shows..."

Different results can come out of it:
  • "...I'll have to get a more expensive photographer instead then, I want nice pictures"
  • "...I've found this other person who'll do it for half that price, I'll just use them"
  • "...I'll just get disposables and give them to the guests, that should cover it"
  • "...I'll just get my cousin to shoot it, he's got a nice camera"

You might even feed some of those free photographers you dislike so much.

Don't forget that the customer liked the photographers portfolio to begin with, so it's hardly their fault for picking the bad photographer after seeing work that they liked. I was terrible at photography when I started out (I still have a long way to go, learning never stops in this hobby) and even then I could produce some gem photos, like happy accidents.

People paying and getting crap hurts more than not paying anything and getting crap. Which do you think they'll complain about more?

Just a question, how often do people here use high pass filter?

Less often now than before I started using Lightroom with the sharpening masking option in the develop module.

I've yet to try using it for that skin softening technique, it seems interesting.
 
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