That's a damn good price. It will probably be a gigantic step up from the 3N. Hope you enjoy it brother, do report back! I'll stick to waiting for the a7000 and hope for massive price cuts on the 6000
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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread
- Thread starter demon
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I'd like to hear more about your experience with the 750 vs the 810. Have the D810 for work and I love it to bits. Was thinking of getting a 750 for personal use since I sold my D7000.
Will do, in the meantime it looks like the D750 is being recalled due to the flair issue, can't i say i care about it personally considering i bought it mainly for shooting weeding receptions.
I think the D750 with a 35mm 2.0D would be an amazing everyday camera, it's so fucking small, and the wifi connection is awesome, i tried it a couple of days ago and it was great being able to upload my pics without having to use a computer, is just so practical if you use instagram or facebook at all. I was torned between getting that small 35mm + the 24 2.8 but went for the Sigma 35 1.4 instead, it was my go to lens on my 5D and i just couldn't be without it even if the Nikkor 2.0 sems like a really comfortable option, my hand gets really cramped after hours of shooting with the way heavier sigma 1.4(i shoot weddings) but i love the images i get with it.
I think the D750 with a 35mm 2.0D would be an amazing everyday camera, it's so fucking small, and the wifi connection is awesome, i tried it a couple of days ago and it was great being able to upload my pics without having to use a computer, is just so practical if you use instagram or facebook at all. I was torned between getting that small 35mm + the 24 2.8 but went for the Sigma 35 1.4 instead, it was my go to lens on my 5D and i just couldn't be without it even if the Nikkor 2.0 sems like a really comfortable option, my hand gets really cramped after hours of shooting with the way heavier sigma 1.4(i shoot weddings) but i love the images i get with it.
I know, but the main reason why i got it is to shoot the reception, i had a couple of 5D MkIII and the autofocus in low light is crap, it was driving me nuts. The D810 will be my main camera during the day and then i'll switch to the D750 during the reception in the dance floor.It was a wedding photographer who first posted about it.
Edit: i will probably use mine for a couple of months before i decide if i need a replacement, i have three weddings coming up in february plus several photo sessions, i ussualy shoot at sunset/golden hour during the day and it will give me a clear picture about this issue, we'll see how prominent it really is.
Totally didn't know this thread existed so apologies for the cross posting from the quarterly thread.
I've really gotten into photography lately. Got myself a Fuji X-M1 for Xmas and a nice fast XF 23mm 1.4 prime lens along with a XF 18-135mm 3.5-5.6 telephoto daytime travel lens.
I'm self teaching myself since last month but there's an insane amount to know, it's a little overwhelming.
On the train right now but going to post some shots I've taken recently when I get home
Some Q's:
1) Do you guys always shoot in RAW? I'm coming over from P&S land where I always shot in JPG but only now am I starting to read up on the benefits of shooting in RAW. The most daunting part for me though is figuring out how to use Lightroom in order to tweak the image. The amount of options in there is staggering.
2) I treat my prime lens as my low-light / nighttime shot and my wide telephoto lens as my daytime do-everything lens. I figure unless I want very shallow depth of field / bokeh there's no real point using the fast prime lens during bright sunlight. Is that a good way to think about my lenses or am I missing something? The 1.4 lens gets sharpest around f5.6 which is better than the 18-135mm lens which is sharpest around f8.0 but I notice in bright daylight I'm always shooting f9 or higher anyway.
3) What am I missing out on not having a camera with a viewfinder? I find that I can't judge depth of field very well on the LCD when I adjust my aperture but is that something that is vastly easier on a good body with a good viewfinder?
Here's my favorite shot so far that I took with the 18-135 lens.
I've really gotten into photography lately. Got myself a Fuji X-M1 for Xmas and a nice fast XF 23mm 1.4 prime lens along with a XF 18-135mm 3.5-5.6 telephoto daytime travel lens.
I'm self teaching myself since last month but there's an insane amount to know, it's a little overwhelming.
On the train right now but going to post some shots I've taken recently when I get home
Some Q's:
1) Do you guys always shoot in RAW? I'm coming over from P&S land where I always shot in JPG but only now am I starting to read up on the benefits of shooting in RAW. The most daunting part for me though is figuring out how to use Lightroom in order to tweak the image. The amount of options in there is staggering.
2) I treat my prime lens as my low-light / nighttime shot and my wide telephoto lens as my daytime do-everything lens. I figure unless I want very shallow depth of field / bokeh there's no real point using the fast prime lens during bright sunlight. Is that a good way to think about my lenses or am I missing something? The 1.4 lens gets sharpest around f5.6 which is better than the 18-135mm lens which is sharpest around f8.0 but I notice in bright daylight I'm always shooting f9 or higher anyway.
3) What am I missing out on not having a camera with a viewfinder? I find that I can't judge depth of field very well on the LCD when I adjust my aperture but is that something that is vastly easier on a good body with a good viewfinder?
Here's my favorite shot so far that I took with the 18-135 lens.
I have a regular DSLR and X-M1. I typically shoot X-M1 in JPEG and Raw on my DSLR. Fuji's jpeg engine is quite nice, probably the best among all manufactures imo. Generally Jpeg is fine out of the Fuji. I still tune my Jpeg a bit in Lightroom though, no matter what camera it is from; however, I find I need to tune Fuji's the least. In difficult conditions or photos I'm taking purely for photography sake, I'd still go back to shoot Raw just so that I have more room to work with in post.
It just depends on what you want to achieve. For general usage, that's about right. If you want to shoot with wider aperture in bright light you will need ND filter. Sharpness isn't everything about a lens. Each lens captures colors and reacts to lights a bit differently; there are a couple primes I always take with me on my DSLR for this reason. Also, sometimes I'd take just a prime for portability reasons.
It's not just DOF. You can see your framing and exposure much better with a viewfinder. The 'proper' exposure may not always be what you want.
Nice one.
RAW is just nicer to work with. Lightroom is pricy, but it looks very simple to use for light editing like exposure, white balance, color saturation and contrast (details in shadow, highlights etc.) and means you don't have to worry as much when shooting.
I'm guessing Fuji is similar, but with a Nikon D5200 I took an ISO 100 and 3200 picture with the same settings (manual exposure) and the boosted ISO 100 image had the same noise as the ISO 3200 one, but also much nicer highlights.
I'm guessing Fuji is similar, but with a Nikon D5200 I took an ISO 100 and 3200 picture with the same settings (manual exposure) and the boosted ISO 100 image had the same noise as the ISO 3200 one, but also much nicer highlights.
I shoot everytjing in RAW but i'm trying to change that for storage reasons, i shhot wedding for a living and those will always be sht in raw of course but everything not work related i want to start shooting in JPEG this year, RAW is more useful when shooting in low light or tough lighting conditions in generel, when shooting stuff during the day, in exteriors RAW won't be so useful.
I shoot my little fuji x10 in jpeg, it seems like lightroom has a harder time with fuji RAW files, and I am mostly using it for family snaps that will end up on Facebook.
Just keep it off the super contrasty vevlia film simulation and it produces a pretty solid jpg without much need for adjustment.
Just keep it off the super contrasty vevlia film simulation and it produces a pretty solid jpg without much need for adjustment.
Reading around the net it seems the complaints about Lightroom and the X Trans sensor are never ending. Iridient Pro seems like a good app though for Fuji's.
Thanks for the tips. I'm still a bit puzzled from reading all the tutorials about using LR to bring out the details in the shadows. I guess from shooting with JPEG for so long I'm used to the thought process where if part of the image is shadowed or too dark then I can't do anything about it and it's a loss.
Is the JPEG being shadowed because the camera is doing processing on it and setting its own exposure, and that with RAW it does none of that?
Yes, it would look flat if they weren't black. Look up flat picture profile which is especially popular for video work and produces a very flat picture that is supposed to be processed.
The JPEG is a finished image which ditches data that isn't needed. The RAW file is pretty much a dump of the raw data the sensor captured to be processed by something else.
Always RAW+JPG. I use the jpegs as quick proofs. Plus I have the jpegs set to output in B+W so I can get an immediate preview of how each shot looks in monochrome vs. color.
Astral/H3X
Member
I've so far always shot in RAW. There was a bit that I was doing RAW+Jpeg, but when I went to the a6000, the increased photo size convinced me to drop the JPEG part. Plus I think it seems to improve saving times, which means better shot to shot times.
Also, I just signed up for Lightroom+PS for $10/month, so it doesn't really feel very expensive to me. :3
Also, I just signed up for Lightroom+PS for $10/month, so it doesn't really feel very expensive to me. :3
Victory Red
Member
Camera: Nikon D3200
1.) What is the best entry level telescope lens for my camera? Sigma, Nikon, or any other brand?
2.) What Fish-Eye lens works best for action sports that is compatible with my camera.
1.) What is the best entry level telescope lens for my camera? Sigma, Nikon, or any other brand?
2.) What Fish-Eye lens works best for action sports that is compatible with my camera.
Joel Was Right
Member
I shoot with the 23mm 1.4 and I've never had any complaint about my images. Lightroom has been updated since the issue was noticed, and it has improved.
It'd be nice to see your shots with the prime, though!
The reviews I've been reading are quite positive. One of the best WA lenses you can find for a crop body.
Upgraded my body too btw. Selling the 1DSMKIII and got the 5DMKIII instead. 24-70 F2.8 L II is also joining my kit later this month.
I'm delving into new territory (portraits/models/concerts/party/festivals) and there's one thing I have no experience in, and that is flashes. I'm probably getting the 600EX from Canon, but I've never used a flash in my life. Is the learning curve of working with a flash that steap?
I wonder how the build is. I was kinda bitten by the 17-55, fantastic lens other than build. Ended up using my 17-40 more.
Might go to a store to try one out.
I have a 430ex. Flash photography of you don't know anything about it is like a whole new branch of photography.
The learning curve is only steep if you're unprepared to learn about a whole new facet of photography that comes complete with its' own nomenclature and skillset. Depending on what you're shooting specifically, I'd recommend a flash with TTL capabilities if you're shooting on the go and don't want to be constantly adjusting your flash exposure manually. When I started working with on-camera flash and wireless strobes, I used cheaper Yongnuo flashes to learn the particulars of strobes and how they fit into my workflow before investing in an even more expensive setup. I'm a portrait photographer primarily and my current flash setup can be completely replicated with cheap Yongnuo alternatives and cheap eBay reflectors for maybe $160.
For concert photography though, the high speed sync speed that your Canon flash gives you trumps most of the cheaper competition so it seems like you're on the right track so far.
I got started here and here.
If you are comfortable with manual exposure its really not that difficult. You can use the TTL auto modes but eventually you will want more control.
I would really recommend getting a stand and an umbrella at least (and probably a reflector) for doing single flash portraits.
http://strobist.blogspot.com <- tons of tips, theory, DIY stuff.
If you're not too invested in Canon gear i'd really consider a D750 for concerta and night events, i ahot for a year with a couple of 5D MkIII and while they're amazing cameras they are not very good with low light situations cause they have a hard time autofocusing, just an observation.
I made the switch not long ago and i'm loving both the D750 and D810.
I made the switch not long ago and i'm loving both the D750 and D810.
I could always sell my canon material, but I just don't want the hassle of selling all my stuff.
I always thought the 5d was quite good at Af in lowlight situations though. And since I just bought a 5dmkiii I'm not planning on switching over any time soon. I'll probably just start with the one flash and start from there. Umbrella and reflector are also a possibility. Coming month the 24-70 and 600ex will be joining the kit. Together with my 70-200 f2.8 IS they'll make a great set to start in that area.
My D750 is on the list for the free repair. Not noticed the problem but then not looked for it or tried to replicate.
On the flip side, I just got the last Christmas present that was sitting at my mums and now have the money saved for the Nikon 85mm 1.8.
For the RAW question, here is an example of what I could pull from a RAW file in Lightroom, and just how far I could push it, 3.5 stops in this case from my D750.
"Just gotten around to looking at some shots taken a few weeks ago in Greenwich and I came across this one which as you can see isn't quite right. The first 2 shots are the original and a crop SOOC, the second two are the same ones with the settings applied. Ignore the image itself, I don't even think I took it! Nothing else was done to the images."
On the flip side, I just got the last Christmas present that was sitting at my mums and now have the money saved for the Nikon 85mm 1.8.
For the RAW question, here is an example of what I could pull from a RAW file in Lightroom, and just how far I could push it, 3.5 stops in this case from my D750.
"Just gotten around to looking at some shots taken a few weeks ago in Greenwich and I came across this one which as you can see isn't quite right. The first 2 shots are the original and a crop SOOC, the second two are the same ones with the settings applied. Ignore the image itself, I don't even think I took it! Nothing else was done to the images."
Sony sensors /bow
Just finished an executive portrait session and am blown away by the D810 files as usual. Does the D750 do 64 native ISO? I didn't think it would make a huge difference but shooting studio strobes at ISO 64 is fucking sick.
still need to do skin retouching... if you look real hard you can see a self portrait of me reflected in his eye
I really want that 85mm 1.4 DBT85. Enjoy.
I just picked up a go pro 4 black edition 4k30p or 1080p120fps. Can't wait to do some crazy shit with it
Just finished an executive portrait session and am blown away by the D810 files as usual. Does the D750 do 64 native ISO? I didn't think it would make a huge difference but shooting studio strobes at ISO 64 is fucking sick.
still need to do skin retouching... if you look real hard you can see a self portrait of me reflected in his eye
I really want that 85mm 1.4 DBT85. Enjoy.
I just picked up a go pro 4 black edition 4k30p or 1080p120fps. Can't wait to do some crazy shit with it
Yes, the D750 has crazy lattitude, insane really. I am also loving the 36mp sensor on the D810, it was the perfect time to make the switch for me.
Tonight i'll be taking both for my first event of the year and i can't wait. Wedding season is coming next month for me here in Mexico, good times ahead.
Tonight i'll be taking both for my first event of the year and i can't wait. Wedding season is coming next month for me here in Mexico, good times ahead.
The D750 will do 100 at the base, and then go down to Lo .3, .7 and 1. So ISO 50 is the very lowest. But of course the base ISO is the cleanest.
Only getting the 85mm 1.8, not the 1.4.
While I've spent money on the 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8, I can't justify £1,180 on the 1.4 compared to £350 for the 1.8. Bang for buck the 1.8 is a great option. Money to burn then it would be the 1.4.
Only getting the 85mm 1.8, not the 1.4.
While I've spent money on the 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8, I can't justify £1,180 on the 1.4 compared to £350 for the 1.8. Bang for buck the 1.8 is a great option. Money to burn then it would be the 1.4.
hitsugi
Member
early a6000 impressions:
huge step up from the Nex-3N.. the EVF is really nice although perhaps a bit overly sensitive at times - not complaining. Shoots way faster than my 3N did, but I have a lot to learn with all of the additional controls / buttons everywhere.
Right now my only lenses are the kit lens and the Sigma 30mm 2.8, which I like, but I'm kind of curious try Sony's 35mm 1.8.... it's just costly. If anyone has any E-Mount lens recommendations under $1,000 I'm all ears. Seems the bar is set somewhere between $500-1k and then $1k+ for "the best" options.
huge step up from the Nex-3N.. the EVF is really nice although perhaps a bit overly sensitive at times - not complaining. Shoots way faster than my 3N did, but I have a lot to learn with all of the additional controls / buttons everywhere.
Right now my only lenses are the kit lens and the Sigma 30mm 2.8, which I like, but I'm kind of curious try Sony's 35mm 1.8.... it's just costly. If anyone has any E-Mount lens recommendations under $1,000 I'm all ears. Seems the bar is set somewhere between $500-1k and then $1k+ for "the best" options.
Joel Was Right
Member
The AF hunting issue on my Fuji is frustrating me. Looking across the web, it seems to be an issue others are facing across the Fuji range. I'll have a decision to make.
Yeah, the AF is not the greatest with Fuji cameras. Animals are especially a problem.
For most things though, its good enough and I enjoy shooting with the bodies enough to not switch.
Doc Holliday
SPOILER: Columbus finds America
Yea, if you want fast AF go with Olypus, or sony.
I'm trying to learn zone focusing so i dont really care
AF is indeed not Fuji's strong point. I've had a XE1 (selling it tomorrow coincidental) with the 35mm, and while the IQ is just fantastic (used it with the fixed 35mm 1.4), AF was just too damn slow. Perfect for portraits, landscapes,... but not made for fast moving objects, sports,...
Have you checked the modes? I remember hearing the XT1 had a high performance mode that improved AF. Bigger AF points also seem to work better.
And BTW, all of you with modern Sony sensors (or non Canon) try taking a picture at ISO 100 and 6400 all in RAW and fully manual with identical settings. Then boost the 100 shot to 6400 (6 stops) and compare them. With a D5200 (24MP) and using ISO 100 and 3200 I saw no difference in noise. The only difference I noticed was that the boosted ISO 100 shot had much nicer highlights.
For the record, I picked up the EF-S 10-18 mm.
Heading to NZ South Island in a week or so's time. I'm a but out if the game regarding landscape photography, but should be fun at least!
I had an event last night, first event in a church at night using my D750+D810 combo, holy shit.
I never use flashes at churches, i have pics with 12000 iso that are so fucking clean, and that D810 shutter sound, it's like the camera is making love to my ears lol, love it.
I was also using the Nikkor 85mm 1.8 and 24mm 2.8 for the fist time, damn good lenses, so sharp even wide open, but the 35mm + 85mm is a perfect combo for these kind of events.
I'm in love with all this new awesome Nikon gear coming from shooting with a couple of 5D MkIII, this is on another level so far.
On a side note, my Sigma 35mm has front focus issues at long distances :/ guess i'll have to buy the calibration tool now.
I never use flashes at churches, i have pics with 12000 iso that are so fucking clean, and that D810 shutter sound, it's like the camera is making love to my ears lol, love it.
I was also using the Nikkor 85mm 1.8 and 24mm 2.8 for the fist time, damn good lenses, so sharp even wide open, but the 35mm + 85mm is a perfect combo for these kind of events.
I'm in love with all this new awesome Nikon gear coming from shooting with a couple of 5D MkIII, this is on another level so far.
On a side note, my Sigma 35mm has front focus issues at long distances :/ guess i'll have to buy the calibration tool now.
sechsterangriff
Member
Take a look at this article from DxO for a good technical comparison. Take note that those are launch prices and that it doesn't include some very good lenses like the Samyang/Rokinon/Wallimex (full manual lenses) and SEL1670Z.
I have the SEL35F18 and it's a very good lens for low light but it kind of left me down in sharpness. If I knew better I would've saved a bit more and bought the SEL24F18Z instead.
For use with the A6000 I can personally vouch for the Samyang 12mm f/2.0 NCS CS. It's the sharpest native wide angle lens I've tried on an APS-C sensor.
I also use a SEL2870 (a full-frame lens equivalent to 42-105mm on APS-C) when I need a bit more reach with auto-focus and it's a great budget solution if you use primes at smaller focal lengths. If I had the money though, I would be using a SEL1670Z.
Also, never forget the beautiful thing about having a mirror-less camera is that you can use just about any SLR lens using an adapter. So just do some research about it and you're bound to find some really great bargains. Some legacy glass even offers comparable image quality to much more expensive lenses minus de auto-focus.
theepicoftyler
Member
I was wondering if anyone has used Samyang / Rokinon lenses. Looks like a budget lens dealy. I like taking photos, but I'm not in a position to spend a lot of money on expensive lenses.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PPKG5U/?tag=neogaf0e-20
How's the build quality on their stuff?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PPKG5U/?tag=neogaf0e-20
How's the build quality on their stuff?
Mediocre.
650D, with basically a 55-250 3.5-5.6
(but I rented a 100-400 4.0-5.6 when I wanted more, and that was great)
The 2.8 is ridiculously fast. It really shows me that you are getting what you are paying for with lenses. Costs a ton, but damn.
Also the 10fps of the 7d2 is unbelievable.
Ah ok, that's quite a jump!
I used my bosses 7D for a week on holiday after my D7000 was stolen (3 days before the holiday ffs) and took some of my favorite pictures with it. Having to take my time and check that I'd set everything right because all the buttons are in the wrong place helped
The 7Ds 8fps was pretty beasty so I imaging 10 must be a bit nuts. I don't think I've owned a camera that did more than my current 6.5fps, but I've honestly not felt it was something I was missing.
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