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Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right!

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Conezays

Member
That transcoder is the only one I've ever seen available and has gotten good reviews by all who tried it here. The audio extractor you linked is made by the same company and is probably fine, but I bought the one sold by retro_console_accessories because I trust her quality and her unit doesn't have a composite video out on it. I don't know if it makes a difference but if I just want audio extracted the safest option is a unit that doesn't even have parts to do anything else.

Awesome, thanks. I'm looking forward to spamming this thread with CRT Scart pictures in the near future :)

Just confirmed girlfriend is giving me her parent's CRT with component inputs. Super hyped. Lol

Deflated Edit: Turns out it was LCD :p A Symphonic CSTL1506 Flat Panel Television. Given it was a nice free gesture, I can't complain too much. It has composite, S-video, and component outputs. Is a SCART setup still advantageous on an LCD? (S-video is a dirt-cheap upgrade for it). All in all, I got a CIB Saturn with Virtua Fighter, demo disc, Sup Pop VF Album, Panzer demo, 3D Controller, and this TV for $89 CDN total today, so not too bad.
 

TeaJay

Member
That is how you do it. You can adjust the RGB values so they're very vibrant and colorful. Below is an old post about adjusting my 20M4U. I have done similar for a BVM and small PVM.


My BVM does have what I think is a weak blue gun which causes a too warm picture. I compensated by boosting B levels very high while lowering R and G enough to get something approaching a neutral image. It means my picture is not quite as vibrant as my little PVM which is very sharp and seems to have had very little use. I could be wrong and it's something else entirely giving the warm color cast. I have a BVM auto calibration tool coming in soon which should fix my settings as best as possible.

Thanks for the tip. I fiddled with the numbers a bit and I got some good results. All the values were near maximum but the brightness was also turned high up, so adjusting them and turning brightness down worked well in my case.

There's also a slight geometry problem with my PVM so I have to compensate by using a lot of overscan but it doesn't cut any text or information, so I'll live with it. Worst offender is Super Metroid but it always did seem hard to get it to fit properly on a screen on my CRT too.

Oh well. The picture quality is really good, though. Like I said I was really surprised how much it affects even composite signal, and how less of an issue dot crawl is now. I think I will seriously have to consider getting an RGB mod for my AV Famicom.

Last thing I gotta find is an RCA cable that allows me to run audio from my NES/AVF composite cable (audio part) to my amplifier. I'd imagine I need a 1xfemale - 2xmale if there are those.
 

Teknoman

Member
So those with RGB modded NES/Famicom: Which color scheme do you prefer? Natural, Improved, or Garish (which I guess is Playchoice10)?
 

D.Lo

Member
After many many many back and forth tests over months of playing my entire library on original and improved, I run improved all the time now.

It just pops and has great contrast. It brings out extra detail sometimes - the rocks on stage 1 of Contra have much more character for example.
 

Huggers

Member
Improved here as well. Just looks that much more vibrant to me.

I got all the necessary adapters for my PVM and let me tell you, it's glorious. I hooked up my RGB devices to my amplifier and home theater system and playing Streets of Rage 2 on the MD is already blowing my mind. It's such a pleasant experience for both eyes and ears. Those basslines! (unfortunately my cellphone camera blows chunks, hopefully I can get some good pics soon.)

Even the composite picture of the AV Famicom and NES really benefits from the PVM quality. I was especially amazed by the NES picture quality in comparison to my old CRT.

I wish the RGB side of the picture would be just a tad more vibrant. It's not bad, but I wish I could adjust it easily. With composite output I can adjust the chroma button but on RGB it does not seem to work. Any owner of this model (PVM-20M4E) know how to adjust it other than individual colors on the menu?

Congrats man that is a nice screen. I remember when I got my broadcast monitor, completely blew me away. RGB looks stunning on mine, I have everything hooked up that way. This was without messing about with settings too
 

Mega

Banned
I had it on Natural by default, but Improved is definitely the way to go. It adds a needed pop of color to most games, makes Natural look dull. Garish is just crazy in 99% of games.
 

Turrican3

Member
Hi guys, technical advice needed.
I got back from the good old Amiga days a 15-31 Khz monitor for retrogaming purposes.

Which would be awesome in itself... until I noticed it only has RGBHV input, i.e. with separate, required (?) horizontal and vertical sync. :-\

So, question is: would it be possible to tweak output from consoles like Genesis/Megadrive, SNES, etc. to get native, 15Khz RGBHV with as little extra hardware as possible? Read as, no xrgb/framemeister and the like - if technically feasible of course.

I've already tried a sync separator circuit with LM1881 but it only works with the Amiga, and not entirely as expected, since image is *heavily* distorted on the upper half of the screen, and slightly distorted on the lower half.
Would a TI LMH1980 do the trick, as per its datasheet it explicitly supports both horizontal and vertical sync separation output as opposed to LM1881? Or is this not relevant at all? (I'm definitely not an expert at electronics...)
 

Khaz

Member
How does the math actually work? I'm just intellectually curious.

This is far out of my league, but as I understand it, Component (YUV) is three signals: Y, R-Y, B-Y; Y being the luminance, R and B the red and blue channels. Getting these two channels back, and the green one by subtraction is relatively easy. This is obviously more complicated than that, in real life, the three colours are weighted and they can be compressed.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YUV has loads of info.

In regards to the hardware we are talking about, I don't believe there is any compression in the output Component signal, but I haven't seen them myself. There is loss of information because of the nature of analogue signals transformation, but it should be negligible (unnoticeable to the human eye).
 

D.Lo

Member
How does the math actually work? I'm just intellectually curious.
To put it simply, the brightness signal is extracted from all three colours, and put on the Y (luma) cable with the sync. That gives you a black and white picture that is actually compatible with composite.

PB is then calculated as the difference between blue and luma (B − Y).
PR is calculated as the difference between red and luma (R − Y)

Between the three separate signals, you can reconstitute blue as Y-PB, red as Y-PR, and green as Y-PB-PR.

It's a much more efficient method of carrying video, as it reduces the bandwidth by more than half in most scenarios, with very little loss of colour information. It has been argued that component will produce a better signal in most scenarios, because the small colour loss from the conversion is less than you'd get from the signal loss over any cables longer than a foot or two, and signal degradation is amplified at the higher bandwidth of a full RGB signal.
 

Turrican3

Member
Nope, first time I see it... and immediately there's something that I think I should definitely try: that CSYNC to "real HSYNC" small circuit! :)

have you tried feeding your monitor csync through its hsync or vsync input? or both?
Actually, since I have already built that LM1881 schematic, what I was sending to the monitor as HSYNC was in fact CSYNC, or whatever the chip outputs from pin 1, that is.
This led to the distorted, but yet still somewhat intelligible image I talked about before with an Amiga, and a totally scrambled picture when connecting a Megadrive (but for the latter I have to doublecheck the pinout, there might be a mistake)

But I haven't tried to connect it to vsync, and to be honest, I'm a bit afraid of doing so: I mean, would it be safe putting a khz-range signal to a 10's hz range input?!
(sorry if that sounds dumb, as I said I'm not really into electronics :-\)
 
I have an over scan issue with some games through the mini. Here are 2 shots of Sonic 1 where the title screen shows blue bars on the sides and a game play screen shows purple ones.
IMG_2021.jpg

IMG_2022.jpg

I feel pretty in the dark about the settings, usually I oscillate between natural, picture or game mode, for 240p games those don't make much difference to me. I haven't noticed this problem playing Link to the Past through my Wii VC though. I don't want to mess with the vertical and horizontal settings because I don't understand what exactly they do.
 
I have an over scan issue with some games through the mini. Here are 2 shots of Sonic 1 where the title screen shows blue bars on the sides and a game play screen shows purple ones.
IMG_2021.jpg

IMG_2022.jpg

I feel pretty in the dark about the settings, usually I oscillate between natural, picture or game mode, for 240p games those don't make much difference to me. I haven't noticed this problem playing Link to the Past through my Wii VC though. I don't want to mess with the vertical and horizontal settings because I don't understand what exactly they do.

A lot of Genesis games do this, you can cut it off if you like with zoom settings. I think I turn zoom on, zoom_scale=93, zoom_overscan=93.
 
A lot of Genesis games do this, you can cut it off if you like with zoom settings. I think I turn zoom on, zoom_scale=93, zoom_overscan=93.
Thanks, but will that cut off some of the top and bottom? The overscan is several times larger on the left and right than top and bottom.
 
Another Sega Genesis question: We should all now know about the model 1 sound being better than the model 2, but what about the Sega CD models? Model 1 Sega CD systems are pretty expensive on eBay, and I think I like the stacked look a little better, but is there an advantage to that one or to the model 2 Sega CD that sits side by side in that tray? Also the 32X, if I get a 32X I would have to trade in my model 1 Genesis SCART cable for a model 2, does that change anything? Is the sound quality of the 32X and the Sega CD systems as good as the Genesis model 1? I would love to have a power stack of Genesis stuff but don't want to compromise the quality of regular ole' Genny games I would still want to play via that setup.
 

IrishNinja

Member
yeah, i wanna say i eliminate most of the genny's overscan with mini settings like those...good luck with the horizontal scan of the NES though

can't attest to the exact cables, but:

- I adore the Model 1 sega-CD, but its way pricier and has a lot more than can break down. the model 2 is cheaper and way more trusthworthy.

- you're fine with the sound on that, as well as the 32X. only variation i know offhand is the 32X puts out cleaner composite than the model 1 but you shouldn't be using that (unless you absolutely must!) anyway.

- my setup is a model 1 genny/CD and i totally have to use another RGB cable for the 32x, pretty sure that's a model 2 one, yeah. biggest bitch of it for me? can't do master system stuff with the 32x attachment, even on mega everdrive...so i can't just leave it hooked up all the time. it's a pain, but despite what theSlacker says, it's worth it sometimes!
 
- my setup is a model 1 genny/CD and i totally have to use another RGB cable for the 32x, pretty sure that's a model 2 one, yeah. biggest bitch of it for me? can't do master system stuff with the 32x attachment, even on mega everdrive...so i can't just leave it hooked up all the time. it's a pain, but despite what theSlacker says, it's worth it sometimes!
Do you still use your model 1 SCART cable? I am under the impression you plug the AV out from the Genesis to the 32X with an 8 pin male to male cable, and have a model 2 cable go out of the 32X. Can you still get stereo out that way, with model 1 sound? My model 1 cable takes the sound from the headphone jack, I'm assuming the crossover cable doesn't have any options for that.
 

IrishNinja

Member
nah, the model 1 SCART is just for the genny; retro_console_accessories (ebay) sold me a model 2 with a stereo cable plug that i use just for said 32X...so yeah, i'm still using that headphone jack!

god, the 32X uses so many cables, thank fuck my trio at least takes care of the power concerns.
 
nah, the model 1 SCART is just for the genny; retro_console_accessories (ebay) sold me a model 2 with a stereo cable plug that i use just for said 32X...so yeah, i'm still using that headphone jack!
Does the 32X cable had a stereo lead that goes all the way to the model 1 headphone jack?
 

IrishNinja

Member
Does the 32X cable had a stereo lead that goes all the way to the model 1 headphone jack?

yes, exactly that - again i think i let retro know that's what i'd need, and she made it happen at no extra cost. i'm not sure if her model 2 cables usually do that or not? but if not, it's done at no extra cost & works seamlessly!
 
I use a model 2 Genny with my 32X always connected, along with a composite to scart/RGB cable on a CRT. I like the look of the Model 1 but the model 2 works for my setup. Also the Sega CD front loaders are expensive and run into problems with the trays not opening up.
 

catabarez

Member
I'm using a model 2 cable with my model 1 genesis. retro console accessories was able to make me a patch cable that plugs into the model 1 a/v out and stereo out and converts it to a model 2 a/v out port. So I only need one cable whether I have my 32x plugged in or not.
As outlined here http://retrorgb.com/32x.html

This male to female socket cable with stereo seems like the best option:

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...a-32x-to-mega-drive1-patch-cable-stereo-sound

Leave it plugged into your Genesis at all times and all you need is the Genesis 2 scart cable for both it and the 32X.

This is what I have but I got it from retro console accessories. Just send a message over and they should be able to make it for you. It's cheaper if you're in the US and shipping will be faster.
 

KC-Slater

Member
I use a model 2 Genny with my 32X always connected, along with a composite to scart/RGB cable on a CRT. I like the look of the Model 1 but the model 2 works for my setup. Also the Sega CD front loaders are expensive and run into problems with the trays not opening up.

Does it matter which Genesis you use with the 32X from a image/sound quality standpoint?

Or does the 32X basically negate any advantage one console model would have over another? (model 1 vs model 2, etc)
 

IrishNinja

Member
I'm using a model 2 cable with my model 1 genesis. retro console accessories was able to make me a patch cable that plugs into the model 1 a/v out and stereo out and converts it to a model 2 a/v out port. So I only need one cable whether I have my 32x plugged in or not.

This is what I have but I got it from retro console accessories. Just send a message over and they should be able to make it for you. It's cheaper if you're in the US and shipping will be faster.

damn, i should just try this! be nice to just have the one
 

Mega

Banned
This is what I have but I got it from retro console accessories. Just send a message over and they should be able to make it for you. It's cheaper if you're in the US and shipping will be faster.

Good to know she does that, but I have a Genesis 2 and yet to pick up a 32X. A local shop had one but not the patch link cable. At the time wasn't sure if I needed that AND another scart cable, so I put it out of mind until just now. The Mega ED can play all the 32X games. May as well jump in...
 
I'm using a model 2 cable with my model 1 genesis. retro console accessories was able to make me a patch cable that plugs into the model 1 a/v out and stereo out and converts it to a model 2 a/v out port. So I only need one cable whether I have my 32x plugged in or not.
Ok so the modded AV out is sending the video signal from the model 1 AV out and the audio pin is coming from the headphone jack plug in? And it works with the 32X crossover plugged in or not, and has the same performance without 32X as the regular model 1 cable?
 

Mercutio

Member
There's nothing wrong with the Model 2 Genesis, provided it's the VA4. I've got one of those and I prefer the sound to the VA2 and VA6 Genesis Model 1's I used to have.
 

Mega

Banned
I remembered why I put the 32X out of memory. It only has 40 games!!, most of which are probably not that good.

There's nothing wrong with the Model 2 Genesis, provided it's the VA4. I've got one of those and I prefer the sound to the VA2 and VA6 Genesis Model 1's I used to have.

Exactly, that's the one I have. In fact I think you're the person who steered me away from staring at Genesis 1s with blinders and take other options into consideration.

I'd love to hear it side by side with a VA2 to compare, but from what I can hear my Genesis 2 sounds amazing.
 

Mercutio

Member
I remembered why I put the 32X out of memory. It only has 40 games!!, most of which are probably not that good.



Exactly, that's the one I have. In fact I think you're the person who steered me away from staring at Genesis 1s with blinders and take other options into consideration.

I'd love to hear it side by side with a VA2 to compare, but from what I can hear my Genesis 2 sounds amazing.

The VA4 is excellent. There are video comparisons of the sound out there, and I know people who won't give up an early (unfiltered) version of the Model 1, but I genuinely like the sound of the VA4 better.
 

catabarez

Member
damn, i should just try this! be nice to just have the one

Do it! It works great and you only need one cable for both models.

Ok so the modded AV out is sending the video signal from the model 1 AV out and the audio pin is coming from the headphone jack plug in? And it works with the 32X crossover plugged in or not, and has the same performance without 32X as the regular model 1 cable?

Yup, stereo audio with a Model 1 + 32x. I've tested it and it works when it's plugged into the 32x and without the 32x. You would still need a 32x patch cable, but just the part that connects the 32x to a Model 2 Genesis. The video output quality is exactly the same as without the patch cable.
 

D.Lo

Member
Yeah but does your Terminator Genesis 2 have an AV Intelligent Terminal?

Is it suitable for High Grade Multipurpose Use?

I didn't think so.
 

Huggers

Member
What are the best 32x games? I don't think I've ever got to play on one. Have been tempted to pick on eup in recent years though
 

Peltz

Member
LOL... I'd laughing so hard right now.

I heard there is a pretty great port of NBA Jam TE on there. And a great Space Harrier port as well if I'm not mistaken.

Truth be told, I only have a vanilla Model One with HD Graphics. I should really think about grabbing at least a power base converter to experience the 8 bit stuff I'm missing.

Can I still output RGB with the powerbase?
 

televator

Member
LOL... I'd laughing so hard right now.

I heard there is a pretty great port of NBA Jam TE on there. And a great Space Harrier port as well if I'm not mistaken.

Truth be told, I only have a vanilla Model One with HD Graphics. I should really think about grabbing at least a power base converter to experience the 8 bit stuff I'm missing.

Can I still output RGB with the powerbase?

Yep.
 
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