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[Peagles]

Just something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221262872137

Looking at SCART wiring diagrams it should be wired up correctly. I don't see any pins for Y Pb or Pr so I'm guessing it would just be wired to R G B anyway and maybe wiring to composite would be the same as having composite sync? I don't really know though. If it wasn't you could just open up the end and put them where you need them, then get 4 RCA-BNC connectors for the R G B S ends. And of course add resistors where needed if they weren't already there.

 

[lostinblue]

^ Run from that like the plague, the colors give out that it's wired to split signal.

Only the yellow cables will be 75 Ohms, the rest of the cables are 50, even if you opened it and rewired some results wouldn't be pleasing.

Yes, YPbPr is wired like good old RGB, which is why component to scart manages to work with RGBS, but that's a different scenario altogether.

 

[GayForMaster]

Hey guys, if I want to feed muh component devices (GCN, Wii, PS2 and orignal xbacks), would I use this?

http://www.solarisjapan.com/d-terminal-to-component-adapter-cable-female/

Problem is this thing looks like it might work but it doesn't even have audio jacks.

Shameless requote; can anyone help me out here?

 

[baphomet]

Shameless requote; can anyone help me out here?

That's exactly what you want. Audio plugs into the back of the mini.

 

[Superblatt]

Gents - need feedback on the Sony Trinitron BVM-20F1U. I have confirmed I can get one for $200 in excellent shape. I currently have a 14 inch PVM. Worth it?

 

[theSlacker]

Gents - need feedback on the Sony Trinitron BVM-20F1U. I have confirmed I can get one for $200 in excellent shape. I currently have a 14 inch PVM. Worth it?

What is included with it and what is it's manufacture date? IIRC that monitor doesn't have the control panel as part of it and is a separate thing that may or may not be included with what you are trying to buy. Also I'm pretty sure that one also has all the connections in the form of expansion boards, so make sure it has the RGB/Component one included as well. That one is with it by default so should be there unless it was removed. Also unlike PVMs I think that has no speakers at all included, not even the mono that PVMs come with, so be prepared for that.

If everything checks out, then yeah, that is one of the best 20" monitors and I am very jelly.

 

[GayForMaster]

That's exactly what you want. Audio plugs into the back of the mini.

Oh okay.

So from my understanding, the D-Terminal goes into the front which accepts r/g/b from the cable and the red/white from the same cable goes into the front? So does that mean component devices also use HDMI from the mini to the TV?

If that's the case, how would I go about switching from component to scart? I'm planning to feed all my component and scart devices into the thing.

 

[BocoDragon]

Oh okay.

So from my understanding, the D-Terminal goes into the front which accepts r/g/b from the cable and the red/white from the same cable goes into the front? So does that mean component devices also use HDMI from the mini to the TV?

If that's the case, how would I go about switching from component to scart? I'm planning to feed all my component and scart devices into the thing.

Nope, the mini has a d-terminal port on the back.

Your SCART RGB will go in the front, your component>D-terminal will go in the back.

You will switch between them with mini remote.

 

[GayForMaster]

Nope, the mini has a d-terminal port on the back.

Your SCART RGB will go in the front, your component>D-terminal will go in the back.
You will switch between them with mini remote.

That's great!

Thank you for answering me, purchase confirmed.

 

[Superblatt]

What is included with it and what is it's manufacture date? IIRC that monitor doesn't have the control panel as part of it and is a separate thing that may or may not be included with what you are trying to buy. Also I'm pretty sure that one also has all the connections in the form of expansion boards, so make sure it has the RGB/Component one included as well. That one is with it by default so should be there unless it was removed. Also unlike PVMs I think that has no speakers at all included, not even the mono that PVMs come with, so be prepared for that.

If everything checks out, then yeah, that is one of the best 20" monitors and I am very jelly.

I know it has no speakers. Here are the pictures I've been given. I pretty certain those are BNC inputs for RGB and that's the monitor controller on top. If I'm going to get this thing my wife is going to kill me.

 

[Peagles]

^ Run from that like the plague, the colors give out that it's wired to split signal.

Only the yellow cables will be 75 Ohms, the rest of the cables are 50, even if you opened it and rewired some results wouldn't be pleasing.

Yes, YPbPr is wired like good old RGB, which is why component to scart manages to work with RGBS, but that's a different scenario altogether.

Are you talking about the idea in general or that listing in particular? I just gave an eBay example for my international audience here, I'm actually checking out cables in my local area.

 

[Emperor Bohe]

so I have a SCART RGB to Component YUV adapter that I bought off of ebay a few years ago, but I never really used it at all because I found out that it is incompatible with both of my HDTVs.

this is the converter that I own

I'm planning on getting a CRT with component eventually, and I plan to use the same converter. I was looking at my adapter and I realized that it doesn't even output audio, it just has the three component video outputs. how would I get it to output audio as well? do I have to buy some sort of breakout box or something? I would prefer a solution that doesn't involve soldering or anything, because I have no experience soldering and I don't even have access to the tools.

can I use something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200581819388

or

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Scart-to-Aud...Video-Converter-CVS287-CSY-2100-/221190880604
i'm guessing this one might be better?

also, another random question. what's the best device for capturing gameplay for all consoles (classic to modern)? something that'll support old consoles (SCART to Component), dreamcast (VGA) and modern consoles (HDMI)?

 

[GayForMaster]

so I have a SCART RGB to Component YUV adapter that I bought off of ebay a few years ago, but I never really used it at all because I found out that it is incompatible with both of my HDTVs.


this is the converter that I own

I'm planning on getting a CRT with component eventually, and I plan to use the same converter. I was looking at my adapter and I realized that it doesn't even output audio, it just has the three component video outputs. how would I get it to output audio as well? do I have to buy some sort of breakout box or something? I would prefer a solution that doesn't involve soldering or anything, because I have no experience soldering and I don't even have access to the tools.

can I use something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200581819388

or

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Scart-to-Aud...Video-Converter-CVS287-CSY-2100-/221190880604
i'm guessing this one might be better?

also, another random question. what's the best device for capturing gameplay for all consoles (classic to modern)? something that'll support old consoles (SCART to Component), dreamcast (VGA) and modern consoles (HDMI)?

I've had experience with the second one used with the YUV scart converter.

It was great to me but eventually realized it was really loose, like loose enough that you'd need duct tape to keep it secure, otherwise the image would appear really green. I ended up selling it to pool cash towards the xrgb mini but it is good at what it does.

I have just one more question regarding the Xrgb mini as well:

I'm planning to feed a bunch of retro consoles into it (rgb), but I'm not sure what adapter to buy. Retro_console_accessories is selling a "Micomsoft XRGB Mini Passive adapter for Euro SCART to XRGB Mini 8 pin" and a "Micomsoft XRGB Mini Sync booster for Euro SCART to XRGB Mini 8 pin"

I read that the passive has more compatibility with obscure consoles (not sure what they mean by that, would it be relevant if I only had nintendo/microsoft/sony/sega consoles?), and it also says EURO SCART. I'm not sure if my cables are even euro scart, but I bought them all from retro_console_accessories and I'm using them on my NTSC consoles.

 

[Sixfortyfive]

also, another random question. what's the best device for capturing gameplay for all consoles (classic to modern)? something that'll support old consoles (SCART to Component), dreamcast (VGA) and modern consoles (HDMI)?

If you require 240p support, then you need one of these:

http://www.startech.com/AV/Converte...re-Card-1080p-HDMI-DVI-VGA-Component~PEXHDCAP
http://micomsoft.co.jp/sc-512n1.htm
http://micomsoft.co.jp/xcapture-1.htm

The first of those three maxes out at 720p60 or 1080p30. The others go up to 1080p60.

If you buy an upscaler for your 240p sources, then your options for decent capturing devices increase quite a bit.

 

[ToD_]

I know it has no speakers. Here are the pictures I've been given. I pretty certain those are BNC inputs for RGB and that's the monitor controller on top. If I'm going to get this thing my wife is going to kill me.

I have a BVM-20F1U and I think it's quite an amazing display. It produces an extremely sharp image. This can be a positive and negative as it will not distort the image in ways most CRTs do. If you're looking for something that will make the pixels look a little less pronounced, you may want to look elsewhere. Because of the high quality tube, the lines do not bloom, resulting in very thick scanlines. I'm trying to say that it's almost too perfect I love that, however.

One of the best things about this screen is the availability of full digital controls of geometry. You'll never have to worry about an image not being centered on the screen, or having too much overscan. This thing has tons of options for adjustment.

Another pro is that it's completely flat on its sides, meaning you can 'tate' it easily for vertical shooters.

Judging by the pictures, yours has all the inputs it needs and comes with the remote control unit. I can't see in the pictures if the remote comes with its cable, but if it happens to be missing you can just get a standard serial cable. If you haven't already, look for any scratches on the screen. Mine sadly has some minor scratches which can sometimes distract.

I took a picture of mine earlier in this thread:

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=108136035&postcount=2355

 

[Danny Dudekisser]

Hey, homies:

I have a generic-ass RGB cable for my PS1. It seems to work fine, but I haven't used it very much, either. But I noticed that retro_console_accessories is selling a sync on luma scart cable for the PS1. People seem to swear by these cables (at least, for the SNES), so would it be worth shelling out for these?

I'm not sure what to think. The seller's picture on Ebay makes her look like a generic RPG shopkeeper, so I'm not sure I believe the wares are worth $21, in this case.

 

[theSlacker]

I know it has no speakers. Here are the pictures I've been given. I pretty certain those are BNC inputs for RGB and that's the monitor controller on top. If I'm going to get this thing my wife is going to kill me.

Yep that is defiantly the control unit on top, and that looks like the RGB expansion board. Grats. I hope to be able to get one someday, but not in a rush since I'm rocking a pvm 20m4u. Only other issues you may want to check are things I don't know how or if you can do. Think you can check operational hours on the BVM units, just not sure how or what would be a good number there. Getting something with a manufacture date past 2000 seems to be running advice for PVMs and BVMs. Manufacture date should be on the back of it lift left of where the picture shows on your top pic.

 

[antibolo]

Hey, homies:

I have a generic-ass RGB cable for my PS1. It seems to work fine, but I haven't used it very much, either. But I noticed that retro_console_accessories is selling a sync on luma scart cable for the PS1. People seem to swear by these cables (at least, for the SNES), so would it be worth shelling out for these?

I'm not sure what to think. The seller's picture on Ebay makes her look like a generic RPG shopkeeper, so I'm not sure I believe the wares are worth $21, in this case.

What? She makes really good cables that would otherwise be almost impossible to find. There's a good reason many people swear by her. The only other stable provider out there is that british site "retro gaming cables", and their stuff is often out of stock. She's also US-based which makes her a better option for NA buyers, as her cables are made for NTSC in mind.

But to answer your question, no, if you already have a cable and it works fine, I'd say don't bother.

 

[Superblatt]

Yep that is defiantly the control unit on top, and that looks like the RGB expansion board. Grats. I hope to be able to get one someday, but not in a rush since I'm rocking a pvm 20m4u. Only other issues you may want to check are things I don't know how or if you can do. Think you can check operational hours on the BVM units, just not sure how or what would be a good number there. Getting something with a manufacture date past 2000 seems to be running advice for PVMs and BVMs. Manufacture date should be on the back of it lift left of where the picture shows on your top pic.

I was just told it has 18,000 hours on it. Sounds like a helluva lot to me. What do you guys think?

 

[Voliko]

I was just told it has 18,000 hours on it. Sounds like a helluva lot to me. What do you guys think?

For a broadcast level monitor like a BVM, that really isn't a lot. Seems pretty decent to be honest. I've seen people rocking BVMs with 80k+ hours and they were still going strong. I'd say as long as the picture is good, a large number of hours isn't a massive deal, but I wouldn't consider 18k a large amount. I would go for it if I were you.

 

[lostinblue]

I was just told it has 18,000 hours on it. Sounds like a helluva lot to me. What do you guys think?

It's pretty good and not a lot at all, it should behave like new.

I mean, it has been used, but most CRT's will easily last 60.000 before hitting "half life" with is the same as saying dim as fuck; and a BVM is not a regular CRT at all.

In fact some BVM have been bought and figured out to have more than 100.000 hours, nobody would say that to be the case though, because they were working just fine.


I'm jealous!

 

[lostinblue]

Are you talking about the idea in general or that listing in particular? I just gave an eBay example for my international audience here, I'm actually checking out cables in my local area.

That listing in particular.

You need four 75 Ohm cables and two 50 Ohm ones, correctly wired to carry RGBS+LR sound or you'll see snow, lots of it.

If the apparatus looks like that, two yellow, two white and two red it's splitting signal but it's two 75 Ohm and four 50 Ohm, not to mention not correctly wired for what you want.

 

[Peagles]

That listing in particular.

You need four 75 Ohm cables and two 50 Ohm ones, correctly wired to carry RGBS+LR sound or you'll see snow, lots of it.

If the apparatus looks like that, two yellow, two white and two red it's splitting signal but it's two 75 Ohm and four 50 Ohm, not to mention not correctly wired for what you want.

Good, the ones I'm looking at are coloured red/blue/green, red/white, and I'm trying to work out what the other one is, maybe composite but people aren't very good at answering questions about them online.

I just didn't see the point in linking you guys to an example which was only for NZ, hehe.

 

[Voliko]

Man, this stuff kinda went over my head. I'm probably gonna just shell out $40 for the scart to BNC cable.

 

[Peagles]

Man, this stuff kinda went over my head. I'm probably gonna just shell out $40 for the scart to BNC cable.

For the record, I have one already and it was well worth it. I got the female SCART one and run a male to male SCART cable to my switch.

 

[theSlacker]

I was just told it has 18,000 hours on it. Sounds like a helluva lot to me. What do you guys think?

Yeah, if you don't buy that and it isn't some local deal that can't be shipped I would love the contact info to get it. If that is $200 shipped then that is a crazy deal though since shipping alone would cost a ton.

 

[Superblatt]

Yeah, if you don't buy that and it isn't some local deal that can't be shipped I would love the contact info to get it. If that is $200 shipped then that is a crazy deal though since shipping alone would cost a ton.

Ok you guys have sold me. Lol. I'm going to try and get it tmrw!!! Will keep everyone posted.

 

[lostinblue]

Good, the ones I'm looking at are coloured red/blue/green, red/white, and I'm trying to work out what the other one is, maybe composite but people aren't very good at answering questions about them online.

I just didn't see the point in linking you guys to an example which was only for NZ, hehe.

The other one, if the thing is wired like that is almost for certain the composite pin, which is the sync pin also.

I understand finally what you're trying to do, it's a video return cable to plug into a normal TV again, yes?


Anyway, depending on the prices, consider this instead:

-> http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_t...&_nkw=hama+component+scart&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Then plug 75 Ohm RCA's coming from the PVM to your hearts content. I can confirm it works.

(Source: I never shelled out big bucks for expensive PVM cables, probably never will!)

I'm a rebel. (you wouldn't need the coupler to flip the chain backwards like I do)

I'm planning on getting a CRT with component eventually, and I plan to use the same converter. I was looking at my adapter and I realized that it doesn't even output audio, it just has the three component video outputs. how would I get it to output audio as well? do I have to buy some sort of breakout box or something? I would prefer a solution that doesn't involve soldering or anything, because I have no experience soldering and I don't even have access to the tools.[

You can do it like that, I mean just look at this post above, I'm doing it. (albeit reversed)

You want to derive the sound before feeding it to that.

 

[theSlacker]

Ok you guys have sold me. Lol. I'm going to try and get it tmrw!!! Will keep everyone posted.

Good luck on nothing else being wrong with it, it really looks to be a great deal. I know I'm going to end up paying double that when I can find one.

 

[Peagles]

The other one, if the thing is wired like that is almost for certain the composite pin, which is the sync pin also.

I understand finally what you're trying to do, it's a video return cable to plug into a normal TV again, yes?


Anyway, depending on the prices, consider this instead:

-> http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_t...&_nkw=hama+component+scart&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Then plug 75 Ohm RCA's coming from the PVM to your hearts content. I can confirm it works.

(Source: I never shelled out big bucks for expensive PVM cables, probably never will!)

I'm a rebel. (you wouldn't need the coupler to flip the chain backwards like I do)You can do it like that, I mean just look at this post above, I'm doing it. (albeit reversed)

You want to derive the sound before feeding it to that.

Nah I'm just looking at my SCART-BNC cable and wondering why I couldn't use a SCART-Component cable with BNC ends on it, if that makes sense?

 

[lostinblue]

^ you can, but that's an atypical cable to be built because RGBS being "separate" is something of a mutant need.

Hence why those cables end with BNC's, every machine I know that gobbles RGBS signal in cables uses BNC ends, it's just standard in it's own nonstandard ways.

You can use component to scart cables, but component (YPrBr) setups/breakouts on top of being a hack for scart standards are usually missing sync, unless an extra cable is provided in that setup for sync/composite fallback. Again, this doesn't happen very often (I only know of that hama adapter that does it like that); I've never seen a prebuilt non-BNC cable that does it.


This will fail due to missing sync:

As will this:

There's gotta be a cable/plug for sync.

 

[antibolo]

Nah I'm just looking at my SCART-BNC cable and wondering why I couldn't use a SCART-Component cable with BNC ends on it, if that makes sense?

No because you would be missing the 4th channel, ie. the sync (which is actually the composite signal per SCART standard).

 

[Sixfortyfive]

No because you would be missing the 4th channel, ie. the sync (which is actually the composite signal per SCART standard).

As an aside, I've discovered that this is one minor advantage in convenience of going with JP21 instead of SCART when dealing with older XRGBs: csync is part of the JP21 standard, but it isn't part of the SCART standard. That's why you have all of these specially made SCART cables from retro_console_accessories and other gaming vendors that output csync or have sync strippers or boosters or whatever. Some Japanese video processors work much better and have less interference with those instead of trying to pull the sync signal from the composite video pins, but it just causes issues on others. With JP21 you never seem to have to worry about that because everything is already to-spec.

 

[Danny Dudekisser]

So, I take it that Micomsoft never did fix the issue with it taking forever to switch between 240p and 480i signals? I'm guessing it was something that would be have to fixed via hardware rather than a software update, but yeah. That's the reason I've kept my XRGB-3 instead of springing for the Framemeister -- while it's not quite instantaneous, it switches over in about a second. Still kinda annoying in games like Chrono Cross, with the hi-res menus.

 

[IrishNinja]

yeah, i dont play many games that do that but it is indeed a bitch. speaking of, do the menus for SOTN on the Saturn change up or is that terrible loading time always there? i gotta assume my upscaler's adding at least a bit, no way that's standard.

 

[Emperor Bohe]

is there a downside of using a widescreen CRT vs a 4:3 CRT?

 

[Rich!]

is there a downside of using a widescreen CRT vs a 4:3 CRT?

Widescreen CRT TV's usually have extra post-processing.

 

[Emperor Bohe]

Widescreen CRT TV's usually have extra post-processing.

ah, good to know. i'll just pick up a 4:3 one

 

[Peagles]

No because you would be missing the 4th channel, ie. the sync (which is actually the composite signal per SCART standard).

Except these are 6 RCA cables with a yellow one on the end, as well as a red, green, blue, white, and red, the yellow I assume is composite. I have a working custom cable so I know it has RGBS and audio, so that's what I'm comparing it to. Obviously if they only have 5 RCA, something is missing, but the ones I'm looking at have 6.

 

[antibolo]

As an aside, I've discovered that this is one minor advantage in convenience of going with JP21 instead of SCART when dealing with older XRGBs: csync is part of the JP21 standard, but it isn't part of the SCART standard. That's why you have all of these specially made SCART cables from retro_console_accessories and other gaming vendors that output csync or have sync strippers or boosters or whatever. Some Japanese video processors work much better and have less interference with those instead of trying to pull the sync signal from the composite video pins, but it just causes issues on others. With JP21 you never seem to have to worry about that because everything is already to-spec.

Actually from what I heard (from Fudoh on the system11 forum I think??), the official JP21 Super Famicom cable uses composite video for sync.

Being JP21 doesn't guarantee anything.

From my understanding only upscalers have problems with composite video as sync (probably due to their digital nature?), and those didn't exist back when most official JP21 cables were made, so the manufacturers didn't care.

 

[Sixfortyfive]

Actually from what I heard (from Fudoh on the system11 forum I think??), the official JP21 Super Famicom cable uses composite video for sync.

Being JP21 doesn't guarantee anything.

From my understanding only upscalers have problems with composite video as sync (probably due to their digital nature?), and those didn't exist back when most official JP21 cables were made, so the manufacturers didn't care.

Weird. Guess it varies by console then.

 

[sixteen-bit]

Bapho?

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=110423836&postcount=186

 

[ZealousD]

If that statue ever gets put up, I will go down and offer my NESRGB unto it.

 

[baphomet]

Bapho?

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=110423836&postcount=186

I grew up in Edmond, which is basically a suburb of okc. I have tons of family still living in the area. I will absolutely go get my picture with that thing if it ever goes up.

 

[ZealousD]

I grew up in Edmond, which is basically a suburb of okc. I have tons of family still living in the area. I will absolutely go get my picture with that thing if it ever goes up.

Of course that basically has zero chance of happening. I think Oklahoma would sooner take down all religious monuments before letting a Satanic monument go up.

 

[Jamix012]

Sorry I just happened to wander into this thread and noticed people having the same problem I recently had (or I think it is.) IE you need a Scart to RGB + Sync and Audio cables. Well I emailed Retrogamingcables and they made one for me and shipped it all for £15. (It was a Fem Scart connector so I don't know if that's what you're looking for)

 

[meanspartan]

Ok, so here is the new episode of our podcast containing the interview with a Hyperkin rep that I had talked about previously. It begins at the 74 minute mark, for those of you who want to go straight to it. http://thepodcast.ctrlalttech.com/the-podcast-episode-3-han-hyperkin-more/

We go over a lot of stuff including the release date controversy, them not being responsive on Facebook lately, and I even got him to give us price confirmation.

Additionally, given this is the first interview I have ever done, I would love to hear any criticism you guys have of me so I can correct any mistakes I made and not repeat them in future interviews.

For those of you who do give The Podcast a shot and enjoy it, feel free to like us on Facebook here: https://www.facebook.com/thepodcast1

Thanks guys, hope you enjoy and find it informative

 

[Lynd7]

Just got home with my Sony PVM-20M4A, looks great. It was apparently only used in an OB truck, so hasn't been run constantly for years and years.

Only thing is I want to centre the image slightly, it seems that it is pushed slightly to the right. There might be other adjustments I should do, but it seems good already.

Also, should the Degauss button light up and activate when powering it on all the time?

 

[Peagles]

Ok, so here is the new episode of our podcast containing the interview with a Hyperkin rep that I had talked about previously. It begins at the 74 minute mark, for those of you who want to go straight to it. http://thepodcast.ctrlalttech.com/th...hyperkin-more/

We go over a lot of stuff including the release date controversy, them not being responsive on Facebook lately, and I even got him to give us price confirmation.

Additionally, given this is the first interview I have ever done, I would love to hear any criticism you guys have of me so I can correct any mistakes I made and not repeat them in future interviews.

For those of you who do give The Podcast a shot and enjoy it, feel free to like us on Facebook here: https://www.facebook.com/thepodcast1

Thanks guys, hope you enjoy and find it informative

I'm getting a page not found when I click the link on my iPad. I would like to listen to it though.

 

[meanspartan]

I'm getting a page not found when I click the link on my iPad. I would like to listen to it though.

Apologies, try this link: http://thepodcast.ctrlalttech.com/the-podcast-episode-3-han-hyperkin-more/

I edited the above as well.