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Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right!

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Dwayne

Member
Depends, does the beer cost $250?
That's what I was quoted once. Only reason I haven't recapped my arcade monitor. That and fear of death.

It costs the price of the capacitors + labour. $250 is insane, you could easily buy a replacement chassis for your arcade tube for that money.
 

Dwayne

Member
This is a problem with convergence. As seen in all next-gen games as a post processing effect. :)
Monitors have convergence rings you can adjust to fix this. See this video. I'm not sure if PVMs do or not.
Of course it is incredibly dangerous to mess around inside a monitor. Especially if it has not been safely discharged. And I would not attempt it if I were you. It can kill you, seriously. You can get a tv repair shop to do it. Or find someone local who works on arcade monitors.
Also generally, recapping the monitor can fix this. Which you should have done, if you can afford it. The same tv/arcade guy can probably do this. :)

I'd look at applying some convergence tape, see how that goes. Guide here: http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...-owners-make-your-own-edge-convergence-strips

While discharging seems super scary, provided you follow a good guide, you're pretty safe. I've done it a great number of times and i'm still here today :)
 
I have my NA DC, JP DC, and NA 360 set up on a VGA switch box to an old CRT computer monitor. Any recommendations on a scanline generator for these consoles over VGA?
 

antibolo

Banned
I was about to make some smartass remark about the price tag on the Analogue Nt, but then remembered that I did buy a similar device for more than $400 a few months ago (although in my defense it did have a PC10 PPU inside it, so the price was somewhat justified).
 

Ms. Tea

Member
Thanks guys.

I have a Dreamcast, does it matter if I hook it up through composite? I have a VGA adapter, should I try and get that plugged in somehow?

The DC VGA adaptor has super, super good image quality and almost all games support it. I'd recommend it.
 

ZealousD

Makes world leading predictions like "The sun will rise tomorrow"
Aren't the PC10 PPU colors funky though?

I think its overstated. I tend to prefer the default composite palette in most cases but there are actually some games that look great with the PC10 palette. Its hit or miss. But its not gonna make your eyes bleed.

I actually think its better than the FCEUX pallete in most cases. Like the FCEUX palette turns the Zelda overworld an awful yellow color instead of tan.
 

antibolo

Banned
But the PC10 palette also replaces tan with super bright yellow.

The SMB3 World 1 map is painful to watch.

But overall I'd agree that they're "better" colors. Just not the ones we're used to seeing.
 

plc268

Member
So here it is. First component SNES mini I've done like this. Click on the image for more pics.


I modded my other mini for component and rgb over the weekend, and it mostly works, but I must've swapped the red and blue on the convertor board because the colors are off. Easy fix, but I haven't bothered to fix it yet. I might take the time later to restore svideo as well once I got it open again.

Perhaps I'll take some pics of mine some time later. I put my power led under the power switch and mounted the component conversion board on top of the metal rf shielding.
 
People, I have a quick little question: what would be the best scaler option (good pq, lowest possible lag) for 480i only stuff (ps2, gc), possibly with scart rgb input?
Thanks
 

Danny Dudekisser

I paid good money for this Dynex!
People, I have a quick little question: what would be the best scaler option (good pq, lowest possible lag) for 480i only stuff (ps2, gc), possibly with scart rgb input?
Thanks

Framemeister. Wouldn't recommend earlier versions of the XRGB, as they're not great with 480i content.
 
Does the Mini XRGB support component video input? From the images it doesn't look like it does, so this might be a stupid question! Would like one for my GC and PS2, both of which I have components video cables.
 

IrishNinja

Member
Does the Mini XRGB support component video input? From the images it doesn't look like it does, so this might be a stupid question! Would like one for my GC and PS2, both of which I have components video cables.

i got mine from Solaris & ordered a D-terminal adapter (i think it's called?), so yeah it absolutely does if you have that, use mine for my GC with no issues.
 
i got mine from Solaris & ordered a D-terminal adapter (i think it's called?), so yeah it absolutely does if you have that, use mine for my GC with no issues.

Is that Component to D-terminal adapter? So XRGB has D-terminal input? I thought that was VGA, or is that the same thing?
 
D-terminal is not the same as VGA. D-terminal is the equivalent of component -- it's basically Japan's version of component.

Does XRGB have D-terminal input? I'd have to invest in those two cables for PS2/GC unless you can get D-terminal to Component adapters.

Ah it does, D5. From the photos I assumed it was VGA input (which I could have used with my Dreamcast).
 

Lynd7

Member
I just had a thought, for the test patterns I could load the 240p Genesis test through Wii homebrew right? That way I can get component to my PVM. Its probably the only easy way I can get the patterns up.
 

Peagles

Member
I just had a thought, for the test patterns I could load the 240p Genesis test through Wii homebrew right? That way I can get component to my PVM. Its probably the only easy way I can get the patterns up.

Yep, that should work. Well, I don't see why not.
 

Lynd7

Member
Yep, that should work. Well, I don't see why not.

Yeah, I'll try it later.

Setting the PVM for 240p, would that make gamecube games not have the right output? Or would it not matter?

Sorry, Im trying to work this stuff out. Is there a guide out there for beginners?
 

Peagles

Member
Yeah, I'll try it later.

Setting the PVM for 240p, would that make gamecube games not have the right output? Or would it not matter?

Sorry, Im trying to work this stuff out. Is there a guide out there for beginners?

Is there actually a setting for 240p on your PVM? Mine just auto detects. I run my Gamecube via RGB though.

If your inputs are RGB/Component just make sure you set it to Component, otherwise the colours will be messed up. Don't try and force Progressive Scan on the GC either.
 

Lynd7

Member
Is there actually a setting for 240p on your PVM? Mine just auto detects. I run my Gamecube via RGB though.

If your inputs are RGB/Component just make sure you set it to Component, otherwise the colours will be messed up. Don't try and force Progressive Scan on the GC either.

Yeah I've got it plugged in and the image displays.

I was just wondering about the geometry, if I use that grid to set the image, will it display correctly for everything?
 

Peagles

Member
Yeah I've got it plugged in and the image displays.

I was just wondering about the geometry, if I use that grid to set the image, will it display correctly for everything?

It works for me and all my systems well enough, though I have heard of people having trouble with the odd system shifting off centre to either side. It should be good as a catch all thing though.
 

Lynd7

Member
It works for me and all my systems well enough, though I have heard of people having trouble with the odd system shifting off centre to either side. It should be good as a catch all thing though.

Cool. Should I use that grid pattern in underscan mode? That's what the red set of squares are for right?

Thanks.
 
D

Deleted member 22576

Unconfirmed Member
Yeah, I was considering making a lowball offer but I'm not in so much of a rush anymore.
I'm starting to realize I'm gonna have to actually have to maintain this thing and lug it around, etc. Thats why the small one was so appealing to me.

I am having a delightful time nerding out over all this though. On some of them the input buttons light up like spaceship control pod lights.

Do you guys typically play games with underscan on? It seems like that'd be the way to go but maybe not.
 

antibolo

Banned
No, not much point in using the underscan option, a (properly configured) PVM will give you exactly the display area you're supposed to see, that consoles were designed to work with.
 

IrishNinja

Member
Florida heads like Mzo and Irish, you know what to do.

lol, Irish is anti-#TeamCRT I forgot

i mean...again when ive got the space one day, ill need something for lightgun games/TATE/etc
but 9 hours for it? nah, gun's right

Does modding the VGA box to SCART take away the VGA clarity? I'll look at the monoprice option too.

nope! its sharper than when i had it over the HDMI converter, and i had an additional switch modded for RGB use since games like Bangai-O, Dino Crisis (I believe) and others don't support VGA. for me, it really is the best of both worlds.
 

Voliko

Member
Also it appears to have a pretty bad case of the RGB horizontal lines at the top of the screen, which is a common aliment of the *M2U series, due to a faulty capacitor. My 20M2U actually has this issue, there's a workaround to make them disappear without changing the capacitor, but you should still be aware that for $100 you should really want a problem-free monitor.
What's the workaround for this by the way?
 

antibolo

Banned
What's the workaround for this by the way?

As I wrote that post, I searched my Chrome bookmarks for it, but alas, it seems I was mistaken, apparently I did not keep it for future reference... :(

What I do remember is that it's really just about tuning a variable in the service menu. If someone needs it, I can look into the service menu of my PVM and find the variable I changed. Maybe I'll do it this weekend if I have the time (and if I remember how to access the bloody service menu ifself).

In any case it's a pretty cool workaround, as it saved me from having to change capacitors on my PVM, which is definitely not something I'd be able to do myself. The lines are still visible in 16:9 mode though, but I never use that mode anyway.

For reference, here's a (really terrible) photo of the problem, before the workaround:
ITqIohw.jpg
 

Voliko

Member
As I wrote that post, I searched my Chrome bookmarks for it, but alas, it seems I was mistaken, apparently I did not keep it for future reference... :(

What I do remember is that it's really just about tuning a variable in the service menu. If someone needs it, I can look into the service menu of my PVM and find the variable I changed. Maybe I'll do it this weekend if I have the time (and if I remember how to access the bloody service menu ifself).

In any case it's a pretty cool workaround, as it saved me from having to change capacitors on my PVM, which is definitely not something I'd be able to do myself. The lines are still visible in 16:9 mode though, but I never use that mode anyway.
You have to hit degauss and enter at the same time after you are on the normal menu screen. I've been messing around in the service menu but I can't get rid of those, I would appreciate it if you found out again! I was also reading the service manual, and it said the lines are a normal phenomenon caused by an internal test signal...
 

antibolo

Banned
Alright, that was easy, apparently the service menu remembers the last variable you were on, haha!

So the variable you want to change is V BLANKING. There is a separate variable for 50Hz and 60Hz, but the one for 60Hz is variable #91 (I did not bother changing the 50Hz one as I don't have any 50Hz devices, so I don't know its number).

Start by booting up a device that does 240p and have it display on the screen, as the problem is less pronounced on a blank screen. Then increase the variable until the lines are completely hidden by the underscan. That's it.

Naturally this workaround does jack and shit for 16:9 mode since there is no vertical underscan to work with.
 
Oh yeah, it's a beast. Displays almost anything you can throw at it, although I'd recommend getting an Extron sync processor for some setups... Heh.



XM29 Xtra on the left, BVM-20G1U on the right.

i thought porn wasn't allowed on gaf


...I think I have that same Sony remote, lol
 
Haha!

I just can't get rid of that remote, funny that it actually syncs to some of these professional monitors.

I picked mine up at a thrift shop. Really weird remote. Once I noticed that electroluminescent panel I knew I had to get haha. I never bothered programming it, but it worked with my trinitron CRT without doing anything, so I've kept it around.
 
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