Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen

Abe's of maine website. They have it for the lowest price. Is that website any good?

Also, is there another LED/LCD TV you would recommend over the 8000?
what size?

If 55", the Sony 55W900 is a much better TV

If 65" one of the Sony 4K models
 
Some more 4K reviews...

Another review of the Sony X900B/X9005 4K TV



And the Samsung non-curved 8550/7500 4K TV



And the first review I've seen of the new Panasonic AX800 edge-lit 4K TV

Strange that only one of the HDMI inputs will accept a 4K signal though it does also have a DisplayPort 1.2a input.
I don't understand this curved TVs obsession. Seems like an awful gimmick.

That Sony looks great but I don't like how it has huge speakers on the side - already have a 5.1 setup in the living room!
 
Just ordered a 65" Sony XBR-850A. Super excited! Can't wait!

Regarding curved displays, there was an article on Ars Technica about them fairly recently. The takeaway for me (which lines up with my brief experience with an in-store display) is that the picture looks bigger if you're directly in front of it, but if you're at an angle, your picture looks askew.
 
I don't understand this curved TVs obsession. Seems like an awful gimmick.

That Sony looks great but I don't like how it has huge speakers on the side - already have a 5.1 setup in the living room!
They make a model without them, that's cheaper, same display and tech otherwise.
 
The only differences between the 900 and 850 series are apparently the side speakers and the glossiness of the screen. I went for the 850, since I don't want the extra speakers of the 900.

The 900A has passive 3d while the 850A has active 3d as well.
The 55x900A has 540p passive 3d while the 65x900A has 1080p passive 3d.

The 2014 models have switched this more or less
Most 850B's have passive 3d while the 900As have active 3d
 
Sony XBR55X850A or Samsung UN55F8000 (this is the last year model)
I think these are the 2 I've come down to. Which one would you recommend. This is all for cable/movies. No gaming. No Plasma.
 
I decided to go the Sony XBR65X900A route after four months worth of research. Was going to pick it up tonight when I arrived in Portland. My flight is delayed. Sad face.
 
Sony XBR55X850A or Samsung UN55F8000 (this is the last year model)
I think these are the 2 I've come down to. Which one would you recommend. This is all for cable/movies. No gaming. No Plasma.
Sony X850. It's essentially the w900 in a 65" size but at 4K resolution.
 
If you missed out on the Sony w900a, take a look at this year's w800b. It apparently uses the same panel in the 900a, while the display that replaced the 900a uses an IPS panel with horrid black levels.
 
So... Help, please?

If my budget is $1300 and I don't care about 3-D, 4K, or having a smart TV with apps or Wi-Fi, what is the absolute best 60 inch+ 1080P LED TV I could get? I will basically just be using it to watch Blu-rays and play PlayStation 4 on.

I'm not super into TV tech, so please let me know if I can pretty much accomplish what I want for under $1000; but I definitely want the best bare-bones 1080P LED TV I can get.

Thanks!
 
Wait until you have seen one in person. The only negative is that you can't wall mount them easily(yet).

I've seen the LG OLED one in person. The curve brings nothing to the viewing experience. Absolutely nothing.

If you missed out on the Sony w900a, take a look at this year's w800b. It apparently uses the same panel in the 900a, while the display that replaced the 900a uses an IPS panel with horrid black levels.

Is this true? How do the W905A and the W850B compare, all things considered, not just the panel?
 
Is there a w900a or equivalent with PASSIVE 3D? I don't get why anyone would want active 3D (yes the resolution is 'better' but it's too uncomfortable to even matter).
 
The higher input lag of UHD sets is likely due to the scaling going on. I bet if you tested with a native 4K source PC at 60 Hz, bypassing the scaler, input lag would be lower.

of course, any upscaling is unavoidable if you are gaming on console.
 
I decided to go the Sony XBR65X900A route after four months worth of research. Was going to pick it up tonight when I arrived in Portland. My flight is delayed. Sad face.

I would seriously recommend you to pick up the new B if you have the cash since it seems to both bet the A in picture and sound quality as well as it supports the new streaming format which the old one does not. The only benefit the A seem to have is if you prefer passive over active 3D.
 
I would seriously recommend you to pick up the new B if you have the cash since it seems to both bet the A in picture and sound quality as well as it supports the new streaming format which the old one does not. The only benefit the A seem to have is if you prefer passive over active 3D.

Ehh, better to pick up a 4k streaming box when they're available and pocket the $1k+ difference between the sets.
 
I have a choice:

- KDL 50 W829 @ £899, or
- KDL 46 W905 @ £799 (got £100 discount for price matching).

Which is the better to go with?
 
Similar look, 4k and hdmi 2.0.

I'm looking for the most affordable HDMI 2.0 4K TV... anyone have any words on the Seiki models? I know they don't have HDMI 2.0 yet, would it be worth it to wait for them to upgrade to that so I can do 4K at 60hz?

Or should I just be smart and wait for 4K @ 120hz?
 
xbr-55x900a or xbr55x850a

which one would be more like the w900a 2013 model

Those 2 TVs are much identical other than the side speakers, the glass front, and the Active 3D vs the passive 3D.

I own the XBR-65X900A.

If you like 3D, the XBR-65X900A is pretty much the best 3D TV out there. And if you don't like 3D, the 65X900A might make you like it! Zero cross talk due to the passive 3D, plus you get a full 1080p going to each eye. The 55X900A is slightly worse because the polarizer is half the resolution of the 65" version for some reason.

40ms of lag is actually pretty good, just not as incredible as the 13ms of the recent Sony 1080p TVs. But before those TVs came out, 40ms was considered quite good.

I wouldn't look at a Samsung. Those TVs seem to have a lot of firmware issues. Bugs like the TV won't turn on unless you unplug it, Netflix not working, etc... I've been following the threads on AVSForum.
 
They keep pushing these 4K sets ... and I still don't understand why anyone would want (or need) one right now, unless it's for high-end PC gaming.
 
I'll keep my Panny plasma as long as it keeps working. I have no idea what I'm going to do after that, because I've been a plasma owner for years.
 
They keep pushing these 4K sets ... and I still don't understand why anyone would want (or need) one right now, unless it's for high-end PC gaming.
The 4k upscale on Sony sets is pretty good. Also as the poster above said, Passive 3D at full 1080p looks absolutely stunning on the 65x900a
 
They keep pushing these 4K sets ... and I still don't understand why anyone would want (or need) one right now, unless it's for high-end PC gaming.

apparently, a lot of their profits come from 4K TVs now, and they are significant part of revenues right now... no wonder everyone is releasing them this year.
 
They keep pushing these 4K sets ... and I still don't understand why anyone would want (or need) one right now, unless it's for high-end PC gaming.

Well the Sony streamer have a lot of 4k films right now and more gets added all the time. Also the upscaling and alot of other things are really good in the new 9000b take this review for instance.http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/kd55x9005b-201405123771.htm

Like they say if you are an enthusiast why not.
 
Found a guy on Craigslist with a mint 55" VT60... gonna pick it up for $1500. Figured it was worth paying $1k less than a 65". Either way it should be a pretty good upgrade over my 50" S64.
 
So I've been tinkering with the settings on the Sony W653 that I'm using as a display on my PC, and I really don't think I can get it to look right next to the EIZO Foris FS2333 I have sitting right next to it. I have no doubt the EIZO produces colors better no matter circumstances, but I feel like getting myself some proper tools to make the 42'' TV look at least half as good next to it. I ran some pictures I side-by-side and got it to look adequate, but I'm thinking of putting some money into proper calibrating tools.

I'm currently eyeing the Spyder 4 tools by Datacolor, specifically the Spyder 4 Elite. At 200€, it sits at deep-end of my budget for a calibrating device - for home use, as a first timer anyway. Does anyone here have experience with these things, or similar ones by other manufacturers in the 140-200€ range? I'd be interested in calibrating the Sony LCD TV, looking at the EIZO monitor again for good measure and checking on my ZT60.

I'll just bump this once.
 
They keep pushing these 4K sets ... and I still don't understand why anyone would want (or need) one right now, unless it's for high-end PC gaming.

Well, Netflix has UHD support now and other shows and services will follow. As I see it, if you want a high end TV this year, you might as well get a 4k set that can last a bit. I did.
 
look at http://www.xrite.com/i1display-pro

or this

http://color.spectracal.com/c6-colorimeter.html

these have better low light reading and are fairly fast with measurements. you will need that low light reading for the ZT60

The X-Rite seems to be option more approachable option with my budget at 224€.

Generally speaking, how does calibrating work with these devices? As I understand it, all of these things come with software that walks you through calibrating your display. But does the software ask you to default your display's settings, and then make changes to how the computer displays colors - or are you just tweaking things within display's menus, and waiting for the the colorimeter to show a green light after you tweak one setting and then you move on to the next? I'd assume them to work like the latter example, but as previously stated I'm a complete novice with these.

And in the case of my living room TV, which isn't hooked up to a computer - I assume I would have to do the calibrating with laptop or drag a desktop PC with the software installed and hook it up, right? Also, to which standards should one generally calibrate these displays to for (entertainment purposes, not dealing with print media or such), and does the software included with a lot of these walk you through what you should be doing with each setting?

/walloftext, Thanks for the reply.
 
Kanuuna, I'm currently researching the same thing, so I can relate to the confusion. From what I've gathered so far ...

Generally speaking, how does calibrating work with these devices? As I understand it, all of these things come with software that walks you through calibrating your display. But does the software ask you to default your display's settings, and then make changes to how the computer displays colors - or are you just tweaking things within display's menus, and waiting for the the colorimeter to show a green light after you tweak one setting and then you move on to the next? I'd assume them to work like the latter example, but as previously stated I'm a complete novice with these.

When it comes to PC monitors and popular colorimeters (with software) like the Spyder4, it's generally all done automatically, at the press of a single button. No need for manual tweaking via the monitor's menus, since the colorimeter/software has full access to the display.

And in the case of my living room TV, which isn't hooked up to a computer - I assume I would have to do the calibrating with laptop or drag a desktop PC with the software installed and hook it up, right?

Yeah, but in this case, you'd still have to tweak everything (to get the right white balance, color accuracy, etc ...) by hand and tinker with a myriad of picture settings on your TV, since for some reason most TVs, even flagship models, don't support AutoCal (ISFccc). Your ZT60 does, btw, so you're good to go there. Your Sony W653 doesn't. You'd have calibrate it manually. The software included with something like the Spyder4TV HD will help you do just that. It's probably not as easy as it sounds though, at least if you want to get your TV to near perfect levels, as that will likely include tinkering with stuff that's under the hood (service menu). There's a right way to go about calibrating a display, which I guess is why there are ISF and THX-certified calibration technicians out there.

Also, to which standards should one generally calibrate these displays to for (entertainment purposes, not dealing with print media or such), and does the software included with a lot of these walk you through what you should be doing with each setting?

I don't think there are really 'different' standards. You want your TV to display colors, including black and white or greyscale, that are as close as possible to 'reference' (ISF?) levels. As I understand it, THX is not really a standard per se, it's a certificate that attestates that your TV actually meets those reference levels or is very close anyway.

Take a look here ...

Greyscale & color calibration for dummies

CalMAN 5 Tutorial for Novice Calibrators


P.S. I might be COMPLETELY wrong about everything. I don't really know what I'm talking about. :P Not yet, anyway.
 
The X-Rite seems to be option more approachable option with my budget at 224€.

Generally speaking, how does calibrating work with these devices? As I understand it, all of these things come with software that walks you through calibrating your display. But does the software ask you to default your display's settings, and then make changes to how the computer displays colors - or are you just tweaking things within display's menus, and waiting for the the colorimeter to show a green light after you tweak one setting and then you move on to the next? I'd assume them to work like the latter example, but as previously stated I'm a complete novice with these.

And in the case of my living room TV, which isn't hooked up to a computer - I assume I would have to do the calibrating with laptop or drag a desktop PC with the software installed and hook it up, right? Also, to which standards should one generally calibrate these displays to for (entertainment purposes, not dealing with print media or such), and does the software included with a lot of these walk you through what you should be doing with each setting?

/walloftext, Thanks for the reply.

You are manually calibrating the display. Any software it comes with is not something you would use unless you got it from curtpalme, spectra, etc. Then it would come with either calman, or chormapure. Both good solid products. You also have HCFR which is free but you may or may not be able to find a profile for the meter. (Profiled meaning it has the offsets of a reference meter used to calibrate X type of display)

The meter can be either contact or non contact. meaning it is either touching screen or it can sit away. With these you would touch the screen. You then go through and do a prilimnary to see where you are at with measurements. You then start your calibration. Some programs have a workflow in place but you cannot always follow a workflow. Sometimes you have to do certain things you wouldnt normally do to get a good calibration. ZT60 is one for example. Like when I calibrated them I did the basics first, then did a CMS with APL patterns, then standard 12 or 10% with 100% lum/sat, then did grayscale, then did cms pass again with 75% lum/sat 10% windows. Reason why is because red dE was too high. that was the only way I found to fix it.

Anyways you take a measurement and see the effect and just go one by one. If you are doing panasonics I recommend getting control cal as the GUI is great for making adjustments on your laptop, because the on screen gui of the display throws off readings and makes calibrations long. No green light or anything to tell you when you are done lol.

They do a pretty good job of hand holding i guess. I learned how about 5 years ago, maybe 6 with HCFR and a eye one pro lol. No hand holding or guides or anything. all trial and error and some tips from AVS. Now I have like 4 meters, multiple software, and do it on occasion for extra cash.

Also if you do isf you dont have to worry about the service menu unless you are changing the actual base of color temp or calibrating THX mode. Which if you havent been in there before I would suggest stay out of the service menu. Like I only go into the service menus of pioneers, panasonics, samsungs, and LG's cause im comfortable with them and know how to navigate them. if you are confident give it a whirl if you arent stay out of there lol.

Alos you calibrate to either video or pc so limted (video) or full (pc). thats really the only 2 options outside of rec709 and rec601 (hd or sd)

Here is the calibration I did for my ZT the before was a 3rd pass I think, then I settled on my 4th and final though I have a few different professional settings to choose from

http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/261656/

http://cdn.avsforum.com/6/67/67047548_z6xh.jpeg

http://cdn.avsforum.com/d/d1/d1f0924e_yvkn.jpeg
 
Any advice on what the best TV would be for around the £300 mark in the UK? I watch films every so often, so its mainly for gaming.
 
Hi GAF tv experts.
I'm in the market for a new tv set, and I was wondering what Gaf felt were some of the best sets and features- for gaming sp mostly and watching blu-rays.

I know OLED is huge, but looking at Best Buy, they start at around 6,500$ and that's just out of my price range and too rich for my blood.

I'm looking for a price range of 2,500$ or below.

So, I started looking at LEDs and mainly Sony. And I was thinking I wanted 240 hz- I heard that eases the motion blur and ghosting found in 30 fps games.

Which all actually led me to a Samsung 4k within this price range.

Will 4k on the tv up-convert games to 4k? If so, how does it look?

Do I really want 240 hz? Or 120? Or when it comes to games they're the same as 60 hz? Don't the hz help 30 fps- regardless of most tvs 'Game mode'?

The input latency of 30 milis or less and all that is another factor I know. But its not front and center to me as long as its reasonable.

So is LED what I should want since Panasonic are no longer making Plasmas?

Is Sony the brand I want over Samsung and the rest?

Please help. Thanks in advance!
 
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