what size?Abe's of maine website. They have it for the lowest price. Is that website any good?
Also, is there another LED/LCD TV you would recommend over the 8000?
If 55", the Sony 55W900 is a much better TV
If 65" one of the Sony 4K models
what size?Abe's of maine website. They have it for the lowest price. Is that website any good?
Also, is there another LED/LCD TV you would recommend over the 8000?
I don't understand this curved TVs obsession. Seems like an awful gimmick.Some more 4K reviews...
Another review of the Sony X900B/X9005 4K TV
And the Samsung non-curved 8550/7500 4K TV
And the first review I've seen of the new Panasonic AX800 edge-lit 4K TV
Strange that only one of the HDMI inputs will accept a 4K signal though it does also have a DisplayPort 1.2a input.
I don't understand this curved TVs obsession. Seems like an awful gimmick.
what size?
If 55", the Sony 55W900 is a much better TV
If 65" one of the Sony 4K models
They make a model without them, that's cheaper, same display and tech otherwise.I don't understand this curved TVs obsession. Seems like an awful gimmick.
That Sony looks great but I don't like how it has huge speakers on the side - already have a 5.1 setup in the living room!
They make a model without them, that's cheaper, same display and tech otherwise.
http://m.store.sony.com/products/27-XBR65X850AWhich one is it? Link?
The only differences between the 900 and 850 series are apparently the side speakers and the glossiness of the screen. I went for the 850, since I don't want the extra speakers of the 900.xbr-55x900a or xbr55x850a
which one would be more like the w900a 2013 model
The only differences between the 900 and 850 series are apparently the side speakers and the glossiness of the screen. I went for the 850, since I don't want the extra speakers of the 900.
Any idea whats the input lag of the 850?
40ms
The only differences between the 900 and 850 series are apparently the side speakers and the glossiness of the screen. I went for the 850, since I don't want the extra speakers of the 900.
Sony X850. It's essentially the w900 in a 65" size but at 4K resolution.Sony XBR55X850A or Samsung UN55F8000 (this is the last year model)
I think these are the 2 I've come down to. Which one would you recommend. This is all for cable/movies. No gaming. No Plasma.
Wait until you have seen one in person. The only negative is that you can't wall mount them easily(yet).
If you missed out on the Sony w900a, take a look at this year's w800b. It apparently uses the same panel in the 900a, while the display that replaced the 900a uses an IPS panel with horrid black levels.
They make a model without them, that's cheaper, same display and tech otherwise.
I decided to go the Sony XBR65X900A route after four months worth of research. Was going to pick it up tonight when I arrived in Portland. My flight is delayed. Sad face.
I would seriously recommend you to pick up the new B if you have the cash since it seems to both bet the A in picture and sound quality as well as it supports the new streaming format which the old one does not. The only benefit the A seem to have is if you prefer passive over active 3D.
If you missed out on the Sony w900a, take a look at this year's w800b. It apparently uses the same panel in the 900a, while the display that replaced the 900a uses an IPS panel with horrid black levels.
Similar look, 4k and hdmi 2.0.
xbr-55x900a or xbr55x850a
which one would be more like the w900a 2013 model
I'll keep my Panny plasma as long as it keeps working. I have no idea what I'm going to do after that, because I've been a plasma owner for years.
The 4k upscale on Sony sets is pretty good. Also as the poster above said, Passive 3D at full 1080p looks absolutely stunning on the 65x900aThey keep pushing these 4K sets ... and I still don't understand why anyone would want (or need) one right now, unless it's for high-end PC gaming.
They keep pushing these 4K sets ... and I still don't understand why anyone would want (or need) one right now, unless it's for high-end PC gaming.
They keep pushing these 4K sets ... and I still don't understand why anyone would want (or need) one right now, unless it's for high-end PC gaming.
So I've been tinkering with the settings on the Sony W653 that I'm using as a display on my PC, and I really don't think I can get it to look right next to the EIZO Foris FS2333 I have sitting right next to it. I have no doubt the EIZO produces colors better no matter circumstances, but I feel like getting myself some proper tools to make the 42'' TV look at least half as good next to it. I ran some pictures I side-by-side and got it to look adequate, but I'm thinking of putting some money into proper calibrating tools.
I'm currently eyeing the Spyder 4 tools by Datacolor, specifically the Spyder 4 Elite. At 200, it sits at deep-end of my budget for a calibrating device - for home use, as a first timer anyway. Does anyone here have experience with these things, or similar ones by other manufacturers in the 140-200 range? I'd be interested in calibrating the Sony LCD TV, looking at the EIZO monitor again for good measure and checking on my ZT60.
They keep pushing these 4K sets ... and I still don't understand why anyone would want (or need) one right now, unless it's for high-end PC gaming.
I'll just bump this once.
Well the Sony streamer have a lot of 4k films right now and more gets added all the time. Also the upscaling and alot of other things are really good in the new 9000b take this review for instance.http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/kd55x9005b-201405123771.htm
Like they say if you are an enthusiast why not.
look at http://www.xrite.com/i1display-pro
or this
http://color.spectracal.com/c6-colorimeter.html
these have better low light reading and are fairly fast with measurements. you will need that low light reading for the ZT60
Generally speaking, how does calibrating work with these devices? As I understand it, all of these things come with software that walks you through calibrating your display. But does the software ask you to default your display's settings, and then make changes to how the computer displays colors - or are you just tweaking things within display's menus, and waiting for the the colorimeter to show a green light after you tweak one setting and then you move on to the next? I'd assume them to work like the latter example, but as previously stated I'm a complete novice with these.
And in the case of my living room TV, which isn't hooked up to a computer - I assume I would have to do the calibrating with laptop or drag a desktop PC with the software installed and hook it up, right?
Also, to which standards should one generally calibrate these displays to for (entertainment purposes, not dealing with print media or such), and does the software included with a lot of these walk you through what you should be doing with each setting?
The X-Rite seems to be option more approachable option with my budget at 224.
Generally speaking, how does calibrating work with these devices? As I understand it, all of these things come with software that walks you through calibrating your display. But does the software ask you to default your display's settings, and then make changes to how the computer displays colors - or are you just tweaking things within display's menus, and waiting for the the colorimeter to show a green light after you tweak one setting and then you move on to the next? I'd assume them to work like the latter example, but as previously stated I'm a complete novice with these.
And in the case of my living room TV, which isn't hooked up to a computer - I assume I would have to do the calibrating with laptop or drag a desktop PC with the software installed and hook it up, right? Also, to which standards should one generally calibrate these displays to for (entertainment purposes, not dealing with print media or such), and does the software included with a lot of these walk you through what you should be doing with each setting?
/walloftext, Thanks for the reply.