KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

I don't know if anyone is still confused on this issue, as it seems we've settled most debates, but this was still bothering me until last night, so I thought I'd chime in with what I've found. This post is long, but I wanted to get down to the nuts'n'bolts, both for my own compulsive need to understand and so others + newcomers can know exactly what's happening.

I feel like I've learned an absolute ton in this thread, and I have so many of you to thank for it.

My best color results have indeed come with PS4's RGB set to Full, and the TV's HDMI Black Level (HBL) set to Normal. A big thanks to others for pushing me to investigate this further.

As best I can tell, here's the definitive answer on why this is the case:

When the KS8000 detects the 2160p - RGB resolution from your PS4 Pro, it enables the HDMI Black Level setting to allow customization of the color range. I believe this is because, even though the PS4 is set to 2160pRGB, there is some content (movies and shows) that don't leverage the full 0-255 RGB range. They're programmed at 16-235, instead. So you, the user, gain the freedom to match things as appropriate--the TV's HDMI Black Level setting becomes enabled so that you can tailor the TV's interpretation to match the content.

If you force your PS4's RGB setting to Full (0-255), then you want the TV to similarly display 0-255 (the "Normal" setting). Because HDMI Black Level setting only becomes selectable when an RGB source is connected, we can interpret the Normal setting as "Normal for an RGB output, or 0-255". "Low," meanwhile, means "a Low range for an RGB output, or 16-235".

PS4 Full = HBL Normal
PS4 Limited = HBL Low
PS4 Auto = TV Auto (Low)

^^ this last one is important, as my testing indicates PS4 Auto will always default to a Limited color space, hence why I thought "Low" looked better at the time. It did, because 16-235 seems to be the PS4's default on Auto.

Once I thought about the way these numbers and settings interact, I started to understand why this works, and why mismatches caused poor picture. If the PS4 RGB is set to Full (0-255) and my TV is set to Low (16-235), any brightness value reported below 16 gets crushed as "pure black". Those subtle gradations of black, from 1 to 16, get lost and flatly reported as 16, which is the theoretical minimum at that setting. The same thing happens on the high end, with whites getting crushed above 235. In-between, things seem more contrasting because of that compression, but it's not accurate, and both the high and low ends lose detail. I noticed this in both COD:IW and Rise of the Tomb Raider.

In the reverse scenario, where PS4 RGB is Limited (16-235) and HBL is Normal (0-255), a brightness value of 16 reported by the PS4 is meant to look pure black. But the TV interprets it as a dark grey. Voila -- the whole picture gets washed out, with paler colors than expected.

Then, PS4 = Full / HBL = Normal and PS4 = Limited / HBL = Low should look near-identical. This was also my experience in testing. In theory, for games (which are developed using PC RGB monitors), Full/Normal should be a slight, near-imperceptible improvement over Limited/Low since it is able to make use of 36 additional gradations of brightness.

So if I follow this correctly, you don't believe auto/auto is doing us right? Ps4 straight to tv? What settings do you believe are correct and what was the proof you had again?


Yeah it's X1. When I switch to 10 bit and do the black square test I can't see the first 15. In 8 bit I can.

This bothers me. I was just told I could set xbox to 29 bit and forget it. You are claiming it is working properly only on 8bit?

Just trying to follow along so I have the right settings when I do figure out the replacement plan.



I also have an idea to settle color tone settings.

What about this video from polygon. What if you watch it on an ipad air or something and compare it to your tv settings?

https://youtu.be/Qoex6qNW6lI

I could be way off. Just an idea? An official gameplay video or something might be better but i figure polygon is trusted
 
Ok thanks all. The settings seem pretty nice from the OP. I like the way it looks on my dashboard but have yet to launch a game. Other than setting the back light to 20 during HDR games, I'm good I guess?

EDIT: Oh, and is the all in one connector that came with the TV good? I hooked up my sound bar and my other consoles to it. I just got my Xbox One S upgrade, too. Is the HDMI that's included with the system the better/updated ones (kind of like how the PS4 Pro comes with one)?
 
Where did you Canadians end up buying your KS8000? I'm looking at the 65" and having a tough time picking the best place.

I'm leaning towards Amazon but am weary because of the third party sellers. Best Buy may have it on sale during their VIP sale on Thursday so I am waiting until then.

Any other suggestions?

B&H Photo. Even with shipping from the States and Canadian border taxes, I still got the 65" $600 cheaper than BestBuy.ca's current price. Hit up the Canadian Deals thread - that was where I was tipped off.
 
From the Buying a 4K TV for PS4K thread!. In case people were interested in the 6300. Will do some more shots and record a video in the near future. Just in finals right now so it's difficult to find time.

I'm really astounded by the quality of the KU6290/6300 (UK6000)

Picked this guy up today for my folks and did some quality comparison shots. Obviously It can't really show the expanded color gammut as the display turns it to SDR when we share here. But the TV is fantastic and I couldn't recommend it more. It does a very amicable job at HDR too. Do not be afraid to buy this set. and to those who said it's a bottom of the barrel TV, you couldn't be more wrong. This is some incredible value on display here.

Sorry for some blooming on some, I didn't let the camera settle on a few of the shots and got some weird lens flare.

Album Here

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B&H Photo. Even with shipping from the States and Canadian border taxes, I still got the 65" $600 cheaper than BestBuy.ca's current price. Hit up the Canadian Deals thread - that was where I was tipped off.

What did it cost you total? Im trying to figure out how to replace my tv right now. I paid 1600 all in on the perksatwerk deal.

Bestbuy has it for like 1800 plus tax on black friday.

Im assuming im going to have to go through credit card assurance or home owners insurance. Just curious what that deal runs.
 
Sorry, I'm not following. I also lack a 4K receiver, so I've had to give up 5.1 lossless audio by plugging my PS4 Pro directly into the KS8000 and the receiver into HDMI 4. That way ARC still gives me 5.1 DD and/or DTS. I also lost any OSD from the receiver in order to adjust settings.

I guess I'm not understanding how dual outputs would help me. Although perhaps it doesn't!

One hdmi from the player to your 4k tv, and the other hdmi from the player to your receiver just for audio. So the player passes the 4k hdr video to your tv (since your receiver cant pass through the video) and the other hdmi just sends the audio to your receiver.
 
One hdmi from the player to your 4k tv, and the other hdmi from the player to your receiver just for audio. So the player passes the 4k hdr video to your tv (since your receiver cant pass through the video) and the other hdmi just sends the audio to your receiver.

Does that mean that player can output Linear PCM 7.1 and other "HD" audio formats like DTS-MA, etc.? If so, damn, wish there was a way to do that with my PS4 Pro.
 
Does that mean that player can output Linear PCM 7.1 and other "HD" audio formats like DTS-MA, etc.? If so, damn, wish there was a way to do that with my PS4 Pro.


Its rediculous that the Pro doesnt hav audio out hdmi. Im praying scorpio has 2 hdmi outs for this reason
 
So if I follow this correctly, you don't believe auto/auto is doing us right? Ps4 straight to tv? What settings do you believe are correct and what was the proof you had again?

I played around with the HBL settings and definitely found that if my PS4 was set to Auto and the HBL to Normal, the picture looked very washed out. I could somewhat counteract that by changing the Color Space to Native.

PS4 Auto + HBL Auto + Color Space Auto = Good, but blacks are somewhat crushed
PS4 Auto + HBL Auto + Color Space Native = Unrealistically vibrant
PS4 Auto + HBL Normal + Color Space Auto = No more crushed blacks, but terribly washed out image.
PS4 Auto + HBL Normal + Color Space Native = OK, but colors are a bit too bright and image is still washed out.
PS4 Full + HBL Auto + Color Space Native = Colors are unrealistically vibrant, and blacks are crushed. I think I might like this mode for cartoons though.
PS4 Full + HBL Auto + Color Space Auto = Realistic colors, but crushed blacks.
PS4 Full + HBL Normal + Color Space Native = Good, but bright colors unrealistically pop out.
PS4 Full + HBL Normal + Color Space Auto = Realistic looking colors, and no crushed blacks. Definitely the best setting for games with realistic graphics.
 
Thanks silver.

Seems you believe full and normal are the way to go. It seems you believe the difference between that and auto/auto is crushed blacks.

Would you reccomend these settings for SDR gaming? your tv media like UHDs as well? Or do you change your settings? I ask becuase im still a bit lost on these settings no matter how much info i read. It doesnt sink in.

If the thread can come to an agreement than i would be willing to update the OP settings. Wish i could test it myself.
 
Thanks silver.

Seems you believe full and normal are the way to go. It seems you believe the difference between that and auto/auto is crushed blacks.

Would you reccomend these settings for SDR gaming? your tv media like UHDs as well? Or do you change your settings? I ask becuase im still a bit lost on these settings no matter how much info i read. It doesnt sink in.

If the thread can come to an agreement than i would be willing to update the OP settings. Wish i could test it myself.

I've really only tested around Rise of the Tomb Raider, which is SDR. I'll test around how HDR looks when I get Final Fantasy XV on Tuesday. First thing I'm gonna try is Rtings recommendation to just change Color Space to Native, and max backlight. I'm leaving Smart LED off for now. I find the sudden brightness adjustments distracting.
 
None, but I haven't had any time to test it out either really.

HDR for Youtube was added. Still no 2nd save slot for Game Mode HDR settings....

So tonight I'm going to see if they've hopefully figured out a way to stop the judder on Cable TV with automotion lol.

Was hoping for dynamic metadata hdr.

I played around with the HBL settings and definitely found that if my PS4 was set to Auto and the HBL to Normal, the picture looked very washed out. I could somewhat counteract that by changing the Color Space to Native.

PS4 Auto + HBL Auto + Color Space Auto = Good, but blacks are somewhat crushed
PS4 Auto + HBL Auto + Color Space Native = Unrealistically vibrant
PS4 Auto + HBL Normal + Color Space Auto = No more crushed blacks, but terribly washed out image.
PS4 Auto + HBL Normal + Color Space Native = OK, but colors are a bit too bright and image is still washed out.
PS4 Full + HBL Auto + Color Space Native = Colors are unrealistically vibrant, and blacks are crushed. I think I might like this mode for cartoons though.
PS4 Full + HBL Auto + Color Space Auto = Realistic colors, but crushed blacks.
PS4 Full + HBL Normal + Color Space Native = Good, but bright colors unrealistically pop out.
PS4 Full + HBL Normal + Color Space Auto = Realistic looking colors, and no crushed blacks. Definitely the best setting for games with realistic graphics.

What about PS4 Limited + HBL Low + Color Space Auto? Should be the same as Full + Normal + Auto, yea?
 
Does that mean that player can output Linear PCM 7.1 and other "HD" audio formats like DTS-MA, etc.? If so, damn, wish there was a way to do that with my PS4 Pro.

not sure, i dont have the player, but i think the player will just send the audio to the receiver, so it's up to the receiver to decode the audio.
 
For whoever was recommending this page http://demo-uhd3d.com/categorie.php?tag=hdr for some 4k HDR demos, the wonderland one comes up as a ".ts" format. Didn't find that on rtings list of playable formats but I guess the KS8000 plays it anyway ?

yes it plays them. There was only 1 file that i had trouble playing, it think it was called landscape. The audio would not play, and the video stuttered a little at the beginning.
 
What about PS4 Limited + HBL Low + Color Space Auto? Should be the same as Full + Normal + Auto, yea?

I think that'd actually be the same as Auto + Auto + Auto actually. HBL Auto usually seems to be Low, and since I get a difference in HBL performance when I change my PS4 to Full, I can only assume that PS4 Auto is defaulting to Limited. I'm not really sure though. I never tested PS4 Limited.
 
What did it cost you total? Im trying to figure out how to replace my tv right now. I paid 1600 all in on the perksatwerk deal.

Bestbuy has it for like 1800 plus tax on black friday.

Im assuming im going to have to go through credit card assurance or home owners insurance. Just curious what that deal runs.

Oh man, I so hope this helps you. I'm empathising aggressively with your situation. I got the 65" TV for $2700 CAD all in, shipped to Manitoba. That's with the 4 year Squaretrade warranty though - shave off a couple of hundred if you don't want that.
 
From the Buying a 4K TV for PS4K thread!. In case people were interested in the 6300. Will do some more shots and record a video in the near future. Just in finals right now so it's difficult to find time.

I'm really astounded by the quality of the KU6290/6300 (UK6000)

Picked this guy up today for my folks and did some quality comparison shots. Obviously It can't really show the expanded color gammut as the display turns it to SDR when we share here. But the TV is fantastic and I couldn't recommend it more. It does a very amicable job at HDR too. Do not be afraid to buy this set.

I posted something similiar about this in the other thread. The 1000 cd/m2 is just peak brightness, most content dont reach that level of brightness. Even ks8000 cant maintain that level of brightness more than a few seconds.
 
From the Buying a 4K TV for PS4K thread!. In case people were interested in the 6300. Will do some more shots and record a video in the near future. Just in finals right now so it's difficult to find time.

I'm really astounded by the quality of the KU6290/6300 (UK6000)

Picked this guy up today for my folks and did some quality comparison shots. Obviously It can't really show the expanded color gammut as the display turns it to SDR when we share here. But the TV is fantastic and I couldn't recommend it more. It does a very amicable job at HDR too. Do not be afraid to buy this set. and to those who said it's a bottom of the barrel TV, you couldn't be more wrong. This is some incredible value on display here.

yea that's what I've been telling folks. My friend got the 55" from an amazon warehouse deal with a 2 year warrant for $420. I think it is the best budget 4k tv available. Absolutely destroys the ips budget lg tvs.
 
I posted something similiar about this in the other thread. The 1000 cd/m2 is just peak brightness, most content dont reach that level of brightness. Even ks8000 cant maintain that level of brightness more than a few seconds.

I Wouldn't go that far. There is still a pretty big difference a camera can't cover. Most scenes don't need to maintain that brightness either though because the scene is usually switching pretty frequently. The pictured I posted are in a very dark room, darker than you standard viewing room even tbh. If you go that dark make sure you have bias lighting or you're going to hurt your eyes.
 
OK I taken a picture. This is running on the PS4 pro YouTube app. It's as you can see running at 4k. The issue is the Internet speed or YouTube servers it self. I have tested both TV and Ps4 youtube app and it changes a lot from 1440p to 4k while playing.

 
I Wouldn't go that far. There is still a pretty big difference a camera can't cover. Most scenes don't need to maintain that brightness either though because the scene is usually switching pretty frequently. The pictured I posted are in a very dark room, darker than you standard viewing room even tbh. If you go that dark make sure you have bias lighting or you're going to hurt your eyes.

But is the difference solely caused by HDR? I'm only talking about HDR here.
The UHD movies that i see in reviews normally have about 200-300 cd/m2 on average. So imo this tv can compete just as well as the higher end models for normal viewings. If you feed it super bright demo materials then yes, the difference wld be big (and even then its only for peak brightness that lasts a few secs).
 
But is the difference solely caused by HDR? I'm only talking about HDR here.
The UHD movies that i see in reviews normally have about 200-300 cd/m2 on average. So imo this tv can compete just as well as the higher end models for normal viewings. If you feed it super bright demo materials then yes, the difference wld be big (and even then its only for peak brightness that lasts a few secs).

You do make a compelling argument. The biggest differences are in the panel's native 120hz for lack of judder, and the color gamut, (Some minor differences in the uniformity and contrast, but they're both phenomenal, especially black unformity) Under most viewing situations this TV can truly stand alongside the KS8000. The KS6300/6290 after having played around with other sets recently is my absolute value pick.
 
What did it cost you total? Im trying to figure out how to replace my tv right now. I paid 1600 all in on the perksatwerk deal.

Bestbuy has it for like 1800 plus tax on black friday.
You can get the 55" with 2 years warranty from Square Trade to Ontario for $1303.72 USD or 1754 CAD all-in. Way cheaper than bestbuy pre-tax price.
 
From the Buying a 4K TV for PS4K thread!. In case people were interested in the 6300. Will do some more shots and record a video in the near future. Just in finals right now so it's difficult to find time.

I'm really astounded by the quality of the KU6290/6300 (UK6000)

Picked this guy up today for my folks and did some quality comparison shots. Obviously It can't really show the expanded color gammut as the display turns it to SDR when we share here. But the TV is fantastic and I couldn't recommend it more. It does a very amicable job at HDR too. Do not be afraid to buy this set. and to those who said it's a bottom of the barrel TV, you couldn't be more wrong. This is some incredible value on display here.

Yes, I agree this TV is a steal. Likely the best picture quality for $ around. I picked one up for my mother in law about 6 months ago at $500, and was happy then. At $200 this is outrageous. I took a similar shot back then, here it is for comparison. I fully calibrated the set 10-pt gray scale and full CMS calibration. It is quite accurate with dE's less than 2% in all cases.

Jt7TBIA.jpg
 
Anybody have a recommendation for a wall mount for a 60-inch version of this?
 
Yes, I agree this TV is a steal. Likely the best picture quality for $ around. I picked one up for my mother in law about 6 months ago at $500, and was happy then. At $200 this is outrageous. I took a similar shot back then, here it is for comparison. I fully calibrated the set 10-pt gray scale and full CMS calibration. It is quite accurate with dE's less than 2% in all cases.

Jt7TBIA.jpg

Oh wow, yea I have a Display Rite colorimeter I use for calibrating my monitors with Argyll but I'm not sure if that will work to calibrate a TV, especially ones with wider color gamuts. I'm looking into it now. The TV's are remarkably close out of the box with some minor adjustments, but next to my proper calibrated monitor I can definitely see a subtle difference.

Wait... mistyped or did you mean to say $200? If so where?

On my Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge all of the pictures look so funny because it's trying to display it in a limited color space or rec 709. So the metal on the shield and helmet are just extremely blue lol.
 
Oh wow, yea I have a Display Rite colorimeter I use for calibrating my monitors with Argyll but I'm not sure if that will work to calibrate a TV, especially ones with wider color gamuts. I'm looking into it now. The TV's are remarkably close out of the box with some minor adjustments, but next to my proper calibrated monitor I can definitely see a subtle difference.

Wait... mistyped or did you mean to say $200? If so where?

On my Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge all of the pictures look so funny because it's trying to display it in a limited color space or rec 709. So the metal on the shield and helmet are just extremely blue lol.

Should be $299 or $300 sorry on Black Friday.
 
Sorry, I'm not following. I also lack a 4K receiver, so I've had to give up 5.1 lossless audio by plugging my PS4 Pro directly into the KS8000 and the receiver into HDMI 4. That way ARC still gives me 5.1 DD and/or DTS. I also lost any OSD from the receiver in order to adjust settings.

I guess I'm not understanding how dual outputs would help me. Although perhaps it doesn't!

I'm not too familiar with ARC; is that preferable to optical? I currently have the tv box and ps4 into the ks8000 and then optical from the input box to my receiver...is doing it via HDMI (ARC) better?
 
We've been happily using our Sony Bravia KDL46XBR2 for 10 years. We paid $4500(!) for it back then--which we knew was outrageous--but at the time that's what they cost, we were moving into the 1080P era, and we wanted something made to last, and so it has.

However, recently a close family member got a PS4 Pro and a 65 inch KS8000 (for $1800 2 months ago) and I swooned over it's image quality, ease of use and thin profile. Much to the chagrin of my wife I began to heavily consider a 4K TV + PS4 Pro, and so I began reading through threads like this.

A few days ago pricing recently began to drop and once the 55inch hit $1000 on Amazon I jumped. I loaded everything I needed into the cart and sat at the checkout screen for, like, 15 minutes haha. I jumped back to a few KS8000 threads for reassurance--because, frankly, I was sweating at spending that much more no matter how good the deal--and I saw one post exclaiming Best Buy had matched Amazon pricing.

I couldn't believe it because there's a BB 4 blocks from my house. I mean, if I have a defective panel I would much rather drive to the store than pay the shipping for a return/exchange, plus I could have it THAT day! :)

Anywho, ran to BB and sure enough all the KS8000's were marked down. I ended up with a 65inch KS8000 for $1499! I got home, removed + cleaned up the old TV and installed the KS8000 and we absolutely LOVE it. (keep in mind we came from a 10 year old TV that had zero networking capability and no apps)

It's AMAZING!

It's not just the image quality, but the painless setup process, super-easy firmware updates, Apps that actually work well (like Netflix, Amazon Video and YT), the remote is well designed and just works with everything we need it to, the sound quality is fantastic. I mean, the remote paired with everything including out Frontier TV box and now we no longer need our Harmony (which served us well for years!).

So, thanks GAF. Thanks Haines for not only starting this thread but remaining active in it. It's contributions like these that make a healthy community, and a lot of us appreciate it without sometimes saying it. I don't think we spread out enough love and appreciation at times and here it's certainly deserved.



Edit question: To enable HDR mode while in Gaming Mode, one must simply enable Game Mode (and not just enable HDR mode, because then Game Mode is greyed out) and with just Game Mode enabled it will auto-detect HDR content? Please tell me this is true.


Quoting this bc I think a lot of people missed it. :)
 
Should be $299 or $300 sorry on Black Friday.

Ok, I was like I want $100 back lol. The one that came from PC Richard was broken, returned it and grabbed another today at BB for $299.99. So that's what I expected. It's a winner, my parents are not ready for a high cost upgrade yet as they don't see the benefit. But maybe I can slowly ween them over. My mom was blown away by the LG demos when I showed her.

Only took the holidays for them to let me upgrade something for them.
 
From the Buying a 4K TV for PS4K thread!. In case people were interested in the 6300. Will do some more shots and record a video in the near future. Just in finals right now so it's difficult to find time.

I'm really astounded by the quality of the KU6290/6300 (UK6000)

Picked this guy up today for my folks and did some quality comparison shots. Obviously It can't really show the expanded color gammut as the display turns it to SDR when we share here. But the TV is fantastic and I couldn't recommend it more. It does a very amicable job at HDR too. Do not be afraid to buy this set. and to those who said it's a bottom of the barrel TV, you couldn't be more wrong. This is some incredible value on display here.

Sorry for some blooming on some, I didn't let the camera settle on a few of the shots and got some weird lens flare.
Sounds really good. I heard that this tv can suffer from judder when watching 24fps content. Do you think this is a big downside? I would only use this tv for gaming and watching netflix, I don't watch blu-rays, and I always play/watch stuff in a well lit room. I'd rather not break the bank on a new tv, and a KS8000 is a 1000 euro more expensive here.

At this point I mostly just want a bigger tv (my current one is 32 inch), I'm not sure how much I'd use HDR outside of a couple of games that are out now, if the difference is worth it I would have no problem saving a little longer, but this set looks really attractive.
 
Quoting this bc I think a lot of people missed it. :)

Congrats on the purchase.

If you're on about the HDR question, I already answered you :P

You just go to settings > expert settings > HDMI UHD Color > ON for whatever input you're using. This will switch to HDR and notify you whenever HDR source is detected.
 
Sounds really good. I heard that this tv can suffer from judder when watching 24fps content. Do you think this is a big downside? I would only use this tv for gaming and watching netflix, I don't watch blu-rays, and I always play/watch stuff in a well lit room. I'd rather not break the bank on a new tv, and a KS8000 is a 1000 euro more expensive here.

At this point I mostly just want a bigger tv (my current one is 32 inch), I'm not sure how much I'd use HDR outside of a couple of games that are out now, if the difference is worth it I would have no problem saving a little longer, but this set looks really attractive.

Some people notice it more than others. Do you notice it on your phone? Almost all phones have judder. Some sources also aren't really going to have judder. Gaming for instance isn't going to suffer from it because the panel is 60hz and your games are going to be running at 30 fps or 60 fps. So you won't have judder. The noticeable if ever times are sources at 24 frames per second. Most movies for instance. Essentially what happens is its pushed 24hz to your TV put its running at 60hz so theres a few frames that essentially hang very very slighty due to the mismatch in refresh. 120hz is a perfect divisible for 24hz which is why it doesn't have the issue.

tldr: It's up to the user. Games won't be an issue, movies and Netflix could be, but if you've ever watched movies or TV on your phone you know what to expect.
 
not sure, i dont have the player, but i think the player will just send the audio to the receiver, so it's up to the receiver to decode the audio.

I have it. That's exactly what it does. HDMI out to TV for 4k/HDR; HDMI audio out to receiver for lossless audio. Great feature. I was going to have to upgrade my receiver, which I didn't feel like doing just yet because I only bought it a couple years ago. Losing lossless audio for PS4 games wasn't ideal, but it's too big of a loss for movies for me.
 
1080p content quality is significantly better on my KS8000 than my old 2014 Sammy. Better colors, better blacks, sharper image.

Good to know. Fingers crossed this will do it for me.

I feel like I'm abnormal or something when people continue to praise LG's OLED as superior while not commenting at all about the lower brightness. It's not like I want the TV blasting my eyes into oblivion, but when something as simple as a white background from a show like Bob's Burgers fails to be pure white:

Screen-Shot-2015-10-07-at-3.50.41-PM.png


I just can't accept the trade-off.

Is it just an apples and oranges thing where people prefer LCD/LED over Plasma/OLED?
 
Just got a 55 inch Samsung KS8000 at $899. Price matched Micro Center at Best Buy. The TV looks amazing, but one thing immediately concerns me. There are no analog inputs! No Component, RCA, etc. So I can't use my Wii or PS2 with the TV, which I frequently play. What's the best solution for this?
 
Just got a 55 inch Samsung KS8000 at $899. Price matched Micro Center at Best Buy. The TV looks amazing, but one thing immediately concerns me. There are no analog inputs! No Component, RCA, etc. So I can't use my Wii or PS2 with the TV, which I frequently play. What's the best solution for this?

There's adaptors you can get for either the console or HDMI.
 
Appreciate the help in this thread so far -- another general question though.

How does 4K Amazon Prime video and 4K YouTube work? Do things just display in 4K on Prime Video, or are there designated movies? Also, I'm assuming YouTube 4K is a totally different deal?
 
So if I follow this correctly, you don't believe auto/auto is doing us right? Ps4 straight to tv? What settings do you believe are correct and what was the proof you had again?

I believe "Auto" on PS4 defaults to a limited, 16-235 color range. That's why "Low" HBL setting looks good when PS4 is in Auto.

HBL "Auto" also defaults to 16-235. That's why Auto/Auto works, but isn't theoretically the best picture.

I can definitely say that Full/Normal, Limited/Low, and Limited/Auto all look near-identical. Same color depth and vibrancy. But Full/Normal is theoretically the best for gaming. See below second quote.

I don't have screenshots, but it was the literal definition of crushed blacks when I did Full/Low. A brown cabinet with details in COD:MW became pure black, with no detail. Same with Tomb Raider. A dark Lara, where I was still able to make out shirt wrinkles and fabric, became a pitch-black silhouette. This is how I deduced what the settings mean.

I played around with the HBL settings and definitely found that if my PS4 was set to Auto and the HBL to Normal, the picture looked very washed out. I could somewhat counteract that by changing the Color Space to Native.

PS4 Auto + HBL Auto + Color Space Auto = Good, but blacks are somewhat crushed
PS4 Auto + HBL Auto + Color Space Native = Unrealistically vibrant
PS4 Auto + HBL Normal + Color Space Auto = No more crushed blacks, but terribly washed out image.
PS4 Auto + HBL Normal + Color Space Native = OK, but colors are a bit too bright and image is still washed out.
PS4 Full + HBL Auto + Color Space Native = Colors are unrealistically vibrant, and blacks are crushed. I think I might like this mode for cartoons though.
PS4 Full + HBL Auto + Color Space Auto = Realistic colors, but crushed blacks.
PS4 Full + HBL Normal + Color Space Native = Good, but bright colors unrealistically pop out.
PS4 Full + HBL Normal + Color Space Auto = Realistic looking colors, and no crushed blacks. Definitely the best setting for games with realistic graphics.

The bolded part makes perfect sense, and all of these findings reflect my own. In "Auto," the PS4 defaults to 16-235 (because movies and shows). That means the darkest part of your game's picture (what the game maker wants to look "pure black") is reported as 16. Your TV, set to Normal (0-255), reads that 16 value as dark grey instead. Across the board, as a result, the picture gets significantly washed out. But when your settings are Auto/Low, the TV's 16-235 matches what PS4 is reporting.

That's why Auto/Low and Full/Normal look near-identical. I took two pictures on my phone and compared them, but it wasn't really necessary. When there's a mismatch happening, the wash-out on one end or the crushed blacks on the other are dramatically obvious. My two photos looked identical.

PS4 Full, HBL Normal is the theoretical best setting for gaming -- matched color ranges, both set to 0-255, with 36 extra gradations of brightness beyond 16-235. Not every TV supports 0-255, but this one does, so anything less is cutting yourself at the ankles.
 
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