I'm curious on this-- I know film is designed with 6500k in mind, what about games?
KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
- Start date
I'm curious on this-- I know film is designed with 6500k in mind, what about games?
Rbk_3
Member
This is a reference standardized and used across all display technology; thus, if warm 2 is the most accurate for movies, it will be most accurate for games as well, one would imagine.
But warm 1 isn't terrible. At least it isn't cool.
Does anyone know if it's possible to make the KS8000 support 60 Hz at 1440p? It seems that only 4K and 1080p resolutions allow 60 Hz, the others are limited to 30 Hz for some inexplicable reason. Adding a custom resolution in Nvidia control panel I don't get picture at 2560x1440 @ 60 Hz.
Could someone check if they get that resolution when connected to the PC so I can be sure that it's not the long cable fucking me over again?
Could someone check if they get that resolution when connected to the PC so I can be sure that it's not the long cable fucking me over again?
That's odd... I've played games @ 1440p/60 off my PC with the KS8000...
TV still upscales it to 4K, but the game itself was outputting @ 1440p.
Quick Mustard
Member
Aye, when I turn on either the PS4 Pro or the Xbox One, it switches to that HDMI port.
Options are turned off in the TV menu and in each console menu, yet it still switches.
I have now learned to live with it.
Oh I use warm 1 or 2 myself, just curious about this. I mean, games aren't real life, the sun doesn't affect lighting and colors, like it would in film. I don't want to derail this thread, was just thinking out loud.
Filth
Member
I connected my pc to the tv on pc mode and games werent going past 30 fps for me. I also had to up my resolution to 4k cause my monitor was 1080p
You can choose the resolution you like for the desktop, I personally have never changed it from 4K. (You can use the Windows scaling if you find the text too small...)
I imagine that having the desktop set to 1080p would look pretty bad, but I've never really tested it. In any case, you should be able to set the desktop to 1080p and then use the resolution you prefer for the game.
Edit: I agree with you in that the scaling isn't great with Windows, so I only use about 125% scaling. I sit close to the TV, so it's good enough for me.
Also, just to ensure there are no conflicts, when switching between my PC monitor and the TV, I disable the monitor.
I guess I'll chalk it up to the 15m active cable which doesn't even give me 4:4:4 subsampling at 4K. Will be replacing it with a shorter one and see if that fixes the issue.
You set resolution to 4K and then set DPI scaling to your liking. Works fine for Steam too.
It most likely is, I eventually had to reorganize the room the TV is in, because I couldn't find a reliable cable to use with the PC. (I'm currently using a 15ft Amazon one, that seems to be OK.)
Not giving you the option for 4:4:4 is usually the tell-tale sign of the cable being an issue.
infinityBCRT
Member
Listen to this: http://ca.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ks8000/settings (same one linked in OP). They have the most correct settings. Assuming they got to these settings via calibration using special calibration tools.
Since this thread is almost primarily KS8000 owners, I was wondering if you could tell me how the TV handles bright and colorful content? I'm talking anime, animation, Nintendo games, RPGs, things of that nature.
I bought the LG OLED E6 from the online sale due to the overwhelming recommendations here, but I think I'm going to nab the KS8000 instead as I just can't get used to the drabber and duller lighting due to the way the set handles auto brightness. I've tried all sorts of settings but when it comes to 1080p content, stuff that was previously bright and vibrant on my Samsung LED don't shine nearly as much on this set. It's just not worth the sacrifice even if I'm getting what is technically a "better" picture.
It looks like the sets are held hostage from Best Buy for Black Friday, according to a manager I spoke to over the phone, as you can't order them online for pickup. I'm hoping I'll be able to nab a 60 inch and pick it up Saturday, then I can see for sure which TV I'll keep (but I'm having a feeling I'm going to like the LED more).
I bought the LG OLED E6 from the online sale due to the overwhelming recommendations here, but I think I'm going to nab the KS8000 instead as I just can't get used to the drabber and duller lighting due to the way the set handles auto brightness. I've tried all sorts of settings but when it comes to 1080p content, stuff that was previously bright and vibrant on my Samsung LED don't shine nearly as much on this set. It's just not worth the sacrifice even if I'm getting what is technically a "better" picture.
It looks like the sets are held hostage from Best Buy for Black Friday, according to a manager I spoke to over the phone, as you can't order them online for pickup. I'm hoping I'll be able to nab a 60 inch and pick it up Saturday, then I can see for sure which TV I'll keep (but I'm having a feeling I'm going to like the LED more).
Isn't it odd that xbox calibration reccomend warm1 for games than?
I literally just smashed my tv 5 minutes ago. Moving a new couch in and we had a client walking to the door. Got super rushed wasn't think clearly and we caught the edge of the tv and over it went.
Not a big deal. It's just a thing. Will get it figured out.
In all honesty I just have to laugh about it. If I get another one some hoe I just hope I get lucky with the panel again.
Cool, thanks!
I'll go with this.
Just honestly mind-blowing there are almost 2000 posts here lol.
Confusatron
Member
I'm not sure. I'll see if I can get a measurement when I get home from work.
WHAAAT. thats nuts
Me and my wife are normally very careful.
It was a combination of things leading to us not thinking clearly.
The 2 couch pieces were very heavy and we were going up very twisty tight places. One of them beside the brand new tv.
We had 15 minutes to get this done before the client arrived and bit off more than we could chew.
So being strapped for time we didn't think things through at all.
Lady pulls up when we are on the very last push and next thing I know my tv is falling.
I'm just venting now. Getting it off my chest. We have a 3 year old and 1 and a half year old and I'm just happy nobody was hurt. A tv is just a thing and my family is safe.
I just keep telling myself that I'm human allowed take a mistake and not beat myself up over it.
infinityBCRT
Member
The hilarious thing is just did all this dam effort to hunt down crazy deals on the tv trading my ps up to a pro and and xbox s yesterday. Today was replacing the 10 year old gross couch. My living room was going to be done.
And now no tv so everything is useless. Lmao. You have to laugh.
And now no tv so everything is useless. Lmao. You have to laugh.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
Haines that is the worst. I'm glad you can laugh about it!
dcx4610
Member
This is my logic as well. Film cameras themselves are tuned to D6500k so you want Warm 2 to replicate that experience for movies. With games, the only way Warm 2/D6500k would be accurate is if every single programmer and artist had their computer monitor set to Warm 2 as they designed their game and that just isn't feasible.
For games, it's Standard or Warm 1 for me. It's not real life so I want my reds to be reds, whites to be white, etc. How eyes see color in outside daylight should have no bearing on video games.
Except your reds aren't reds and your whites aren't whites. You are choosing to have both with added blue. It not about how colors look in daylight its about how colors look everywhere. Its fine if you prefer inaccurate colors but your justification isn't correct. The only reason it looks off for you is because you are used to an innacurate color space.
Oh and WTF HAINES
dcx4610
Member
If I look at a plain white screen with Warm 2, it's red/yellow and not pure white. To me, this is adding red rather than blue while standard is a compromise. Not trying to argue, just trying to find the logic.
Rbk_3
Member
FallingEdge
Member
KyleOnTheRun
Member
I don't know if anyone is still confused on this issue, as it seems we've settled most debates, but this was still bothering me until last night, so I thought I'd chime in with what I've found. This post is long, but I wanted to get down to the nuts'n'bolts, both for my own compulsive need to understand and so others + newcomers can know exactly what's happening.
I feel like I've learned an absolute ton in this thread, and I have so many of you to thank for it.
My best color results have indeed come with PS4's RGB set to Full, and the TV's HDMI Black Level (HBL) set to Normal. A big thanks to others for pushing me to investigate this further.
As best I can tell, here's the definitive answer on why this is the case:
When the KS8000 detects the 2160p - RGB resolution from your PS4 Pro, it enables the HDMI Black Level setting to allow customization of the color range. I believe this is because, even though the PS4 is set to 2160pRGB, there is some content (movies and shows) that don't leverage the full 0-255 RGB range. They're programmed at 16-235, instead. So you, the user, gain the freedom to match things as appropriate--the TV's HDMI Black Level setting becomes enabled so that you can tailor the TV's interpretation to match the content.
If you force your PS4's RGB setting to Full (0-255), then you want the TV to similarly display 0-255 (the "Normal" setting). Because HDMI Black Level setting only becomes selectable when an RGB source is connected, we can interpret the Normal setting as "Normal for an RGB output, or 0-255". "Low," meanwhile, means "a Low range for an RGB output, or 16-235".
PS4 Full = HBL Normal
PS4 Limited = HBL Low
PS4 Auto = TV Auto (Low)
Once I thought about the way these numbers and settings interact, I started to understand why this works, and why mismatches caused poor picture. If the PS4 RGB is set to Full (0-255) and my TV is set to Low (16-235), any brightness value reported below 16 gets crushed as "pure black". Those subtle gradations of black, from 1 to 16, get lost and flatly reported as 16, which is the theoretical minimum at that setting. The same thing happens on the high end, with whites getting crushed above 235. In-between, things seem more contrasting because of that compression, but it's not accurate, and both the high and low ends lose detail. I noticed this in both COD:IW and Rise of the Tomb Raider.
In the reverse scenario, where PS4 RGB is Limited (16-235) and HBL is Normal (0-255), a brightness value of 16 reported by the PS4 is meant to look pure black. But the TV interprets it as a dark grey. Voila -- the whole picture gets washed out, with paler colors than expected.
Then, PS4 = Full / HBL = Normal and PS4 = Limited / HBL = Low should look near-identical. This was also my experience in testing. In theory, for games (which are developed using PC RGB monitors), Full/Normal should be a slight, near-imperceptible improvement over Limited/Low since it is able to make use of 36 additional gradations of brightness.
I feel like I've learned an absolute ton in this thread, and I have so many of you to thank for it.
My best color results have indeed come with PS4's RGB set to Full, and the TV's HDMI Black Level (HBL) set to Normal. A big thanks to others for pushing me to investigate this further.
As best I can tell, here's the definitive answer on why this is the case:
When the KS8000 detects the 2160p - RGB resolution from your PS4 Pro, it enables the HDMI Black Level setting to allow customization of the color range. I believe this is because, even though the PS4 is set to 2160pRGB, there is some content (movies and shows) that don't leverage the full 0-255 RGB range. They're programmed at 16-235, instead. So you, the user, gain the freedom to match things as appropriate--the TV's HDMI Black Level setting becomes enabled so that you can tailor the TV's interpretation to match the content.
If you force your PS4's RGB setting to Full (0-255), then you want the TV to similarly display 0-255 (the "Normal" setting). Because HDMI Black Level setting only becomes selectable when an RGB source is connected, we can interpret the Normal setting as "Normal for an RGB output, or 0-255". "Low," meanwhile, means "a Low range for an RGB output, or 16-235".
PS4 Full = HBL Normal
PS4 Limited = HBL Low
PS4 Auto = TV Auto (Low)
^^ this last one is important, as my testing indicates PS4 Auto will always default to a Limited color space, hence why I thought "Low" looked better at the time. It did, because 16-235 seems to be the PS4's default on Auto.
Once I thought about the way these numbers and settings interact, I started to understand why this works, and why mismatches caused poor picture. If the PS4 RGB is set to Full (0-255) and my TV is set to Low (16-235), any brightness value reported below 16 gets crushed as "pure black". Those subtle gradations of black, from 1 to 16, get lost and flatly reported as 16, which is the theoretical minimum at that setting. The same thing happens on the high end, with whites getting crushed above 235. In-between, things seem more contrasting because of that compression, but it's not accurate, and both the high and low ends lose detail. I noticed this in both COD:IW and Rise of the Tomb Raider.
In the reverse scenario, where PS4 RGB is Limited (16-235) and HBL is Normal (0-255), a brightness value of 16 reported by the PS4 is meant to look pure black. But the TV interprets it as a dark grey. Voila -- the whole picture gets washed out, with paler colors than expected.
Then, PS4 = Full / HBL = Normal and PS4 = Limited / HBL = Low should look near-identical. This was also my experience in testing. In theory, for games (which are developed using PC RGB monitors), Full/Normal should be a slight, near-imperceptible improvement over Limited/Low since it is able to make use of 36 additional gradations of brightness.
That is because you are used to seeing white with blue and now that has become your standard definition of white. You are trying to find a compromise between accurate colors and what your mind is telling you is accurate based on poorly calibrated TV's. Real white has yellow in it. Its not meant to look like how you are used to it looking. Having accurate whites is the first step in making sure all colors look accurate as well. If your whites are off everything will be off.
The reason you are used to this is because TV manufacturers made their TV's err on the blue side because it made the picture look more "bright". Introducing blue into picture adds a false brightness. Manufacturers used this to make their TV's stand out in extremely well lit store showrooms. Its why a lot of TVs would come out of the box on "standard" or "natural" settings rather than movie mode. As a result many many people now think inaccurate colors are correct. You aren't the only one. It took me awhile to get used to Warm2 back when HDTV's were first coming out and I started to care about calibration.
Skin tones are also inaccurate. You are shifting the grey scale toward the blue side of the spectrum which makes skin tones more red then they should be. Warm 2 makes them more natural and "yellow".
Furthermore you are making the assumption that video game developers for some reason aren't using professionally calibrated equipment (which would be at the 6500k standard that Warm2 is closest to).
damn haines... sorry to hear that. Glad that everyone was ok though...
Either way, thanks for all your posts and info in this thread, helped me and others a bunch
You're welcome. A few people have thanked me and I never got around to acknowledging.
Your welcome guys.
So where do you guys keep your one connect box?
I keep mine hidden in of the the TV stand windows
I remember opening my KS8000 sunday and staring at the box going "are you fucking kidding me....separate box just to hook up my stuff."
After hooking it up....if a TV now doesn't have a breakout box for inputs.....it can fuck off lol. It is a godsend for mounted displays and easily allowing me to unhook stuff when I wish to take my stuff to a buddies house.
SilverArrow20XX
Walks in the Light of the Crystal
No. It does not. Real white has no hue at all. By definition. White tends to appear yellowish in nature because of impurities and light sources affecting it.
Warm 2 is definitely more accurate to what nature looks like, but that doesn't mean they are the "real" versions of the color. They are just the most accurate to what would be perceived if you were to see that scene in nature.
Absolutely. If only they could just cram all the connectors on one side rather than on nearly every side. Especially having the optical on the side is such a stupid move as with that it actually matters how much the cable is bent.
My credit card damage assurance might cover 1000 out of my 1600 bc 1000 is the limit if the claim goes through.
So that helps some of the sting. Bloody tv is still 500 more here in canada on black friday than the deal i got in states after spending 4 hrs driving across border.
I might move in with you guys down there,
So that helps some of the sting. Bloody tv is still 500 more here in canada on black friday than the deal i got in states after spending 4 hrs driving across border.
I might move in with you guys down there,
Humdinger
Gold Member
Bummer, haines! Damn, that would frustrate the hell out of me. I'm glad you're able to maintain your sense of humor and perspective. We get really intense in these discussions sometimes -- people use hyperbolic phrases like "it will change your life," etc. -- but in the end, they are just things. If I had a nickel for every time I'd made some bonehead move that cost me money, well ... I'd have a lot of nickels.
Aztechnology
Member
Odd I have a huge bevy of options to choose from in the Nvidia control panel. 1440p@60hz is on the list as well.
Oh just something additional. Rtings finally posted a video review of the 6300 today. So I thought I'd post it here for those who are on a tighter budget.
https://youtu.be/xqhmi8zm8eg
You can stay with me if you find a way to get me Canadian Citizenship
Maybe I can divorce my wife so she can marry you, thus granting both citizenships... Then divorce and we go back to our normal wives.... Yes... YES! Sorry about your TV man... I hope the rest of these holiday days treat you better.
Quick Mustard
Member
Man Haines, that sucks
Cross posting from the PS4 Pro thread as it might get some notice in here as well.
I dont think its the TV as the TV app works fine for 4K. but when I try and play any 4K YouTube video through the Pro, it only ever tells me its HD on the little bit where it tells you the type.
Ive deleted and redownloaded the App to be safe.
Does anyone know if its supposed to say 4K or..?
Title Card Bit: (Is this supposed to say 4K like it does on the TV?)
Video Information Bit:
Not too sure what to make of it all.
Cross posting from the PS4 Pro thread as it might get some notice in here as well.
I dont think its the TV as the TV app works fine for 4K. but when I try and play any 4K YouTube video through the Pro, it only ever tells me its HD on the little bit where it tells you the type.
Ive deleted and redownloaded the App to be safe.
Does anyone know if its supposed to say 4K or..?
Title Card Bit: (Is this supposed to say 4K like it does on the TV?)
Video Information Bit:
Not too sure what to make of it all.
Goose_Se7en
Banned
I feel for you brother and I want to thank you for this awesome and very helpful thread.
Man Haines, that sucks
Cross posting from the PS4 Pro thread as it might get some notice in here as well.
I dont think its the TV as the TV app works fine for 4K. but when I try and play any 4K YouTube video through the Pro, it only ever tells me its HD on the little bit where it tells you the type.
Ive deleted and redownloaded the App to be safe.
Does anyone know if its supposed to say 4K or..?
Title Card Bit: (Is this supposed to say 4K like it does on the TV?)
Video Information Bit:
Not too sure what to make of it all.
It's correct. It doesn't say UHD , Just HD. And if you get the 1152 software off of the Korean site, you can now add it saying HD HDR on certain videos
Quick Mustard
Member
It's correct. It doesn't say UHD , Just HD. And if you get the 1152 software off of the Korean site, you can now add it saying HD HDR on certain videos
So, the YouTube app on the PS4 Pro is slightly worse then?
The videos played straight through the TV App look so much better than the YouTube app on the PS4 Pro.
It just strikes me as odd that the TV will state 4K and the PS4 app states HD.
I'll wait for the firmware to come to the TV, but thanks!
Both will just say HD. Not sure though if the PS4 is limiting the bandwidth for the videos, which would be the only reason I could think it would look worse.
Or instead,
Obviously by "real" I meant how human beings realistically perceive white through our human being eyes living on planet Earth affected by everything that entails. Pure white has no hue at all.
Hostile_18
Banned
Well call me crazy but I think I prefer the "Natural" setting without changing anything for Blu Rays... Haven't tried messing about on settings for games yet.
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