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[Aztechnology]

Went to the AVS thread and saw this:


Seems like the DC fight continues...

I mean personally it still appears to be the case. Depending on your lighting situation you might want to consider using DC. However for the optimal accuracy I feel like it's pretty much confirmed at this point that off is best. Saying the DC is awful and should never be used in HDR isn't right though in my opinion.

 

[Aske]

Apologies if I missed it, but I'd love some Xbone S settings. I don't have the system yet, but I decided to buy one for multimedia playback - I doubt I'll buy a ton of UHD Blu-rays, and it'll be nice to play Gears and Killer Instinct. But for mixed use, I'll have to constantly switch Game mode on and off, right? How much will my Blu-ray/Netflix experience be impacted by leaving Game mode on? I'm a set-it-and-forget-it user: I don't want to muck around with settings every time I use the X1 unless I absolutely have to. I used a PS2 for DVDs, a PS3 for Blu-rays, and I'll be goddamned if I'll let corporations bully me into buying a dedicated disc player after all these years!

I already know the HDR backlight issue is really going to bug me. Have Samsung acknowledged the issue and said they're working on a fix? Hard to believe the TV shipped with a bug like that since almost noone will be able to feed a given input nothing but HDR content.

 

[shakey]

I mean personally it still appears to be the case. Depending on your lighting situation you might want to consider using DC. However for the optimal accuracy I feel like it's pretty much confirmed at this point that off is best. Saying the DC is awful and should never be used in HDR isn't right though in my opinion.

It at least hasn't really been settled lol

Even on AVS forums, many of the "guru's" there believe that for movies at least, you should put DC on low or medium, depending on movie. Some off, but others on.

 

[dragonzdogma]

Warm1

Standard all the way

 

[Aztechnology]

It at least hasn't really been settled lol

Even on AVS forums, many of the "guru's" there believe that for movies at least, you should put DC on low or medium, depending on movie. Some off, but others on.

Yea I'm basically of this mindset. I really don't see low or medium crushing very light or very dark gradients. Some content extreme brights medium will, but it's generally just a brighter overall image. People forget that a lot of the reviews that they point out calibrations are based on a theatre dark viewing experience and generally doesn't relate to gaming either as the experience is different. I'm team DC at your viewing pleasure for HDR.

SDR off.

 

[MastAndo]

Count me in for a touch of Dynamic Contrast in some cases. I try to leave it off when possible, but I watch in a pretty bright room, and I find that it creates a more pleasing image to me when the content is either pretty dim to begin with (HDR) or doesn't necessarily need to be realistic (video games).

 

[Quick Mustard]

Quick question, what do I need to do to stop or minimise banding on screen?
I think what I'm seeing is the game and not the TV but want to be sure.

 

[noomi]

Warm 1 and DC medium for HDR.

Warm 1 and DC low for SDR for me.

I wont budge on the normal/full thing though, i'm 100% convinced that setting is the best for gaming.... unless proven otherwise.

Also could someone please enlighten me on what the actual input lag for the TV is? I was under the impression that is was a flat 20ms no matter what resolution/mode the tv was running at. Now finding out that HDR games are 21ms and non HDR are....?

 

[III-V]

Edit: OK this should be required viewing for anyone selling an HDR TV and everyone in this thread too.

Lol exactly.

Guess it's time to get calibrating...


Speaking of, Disney needs to make an 'HDR WOW' disc. I use that for my eyeball calibrations but seems like i'll need something else for my HDR content.

Although, does the TV have different presets when HDR is activated (e.g. +50 brightness on standard, +40 brightness on HDR)?

Sadly, Disney has not embraced any of the UHD HDR stuff yet. You cannot even find WoW for a reasonable price anymore. I recommend the AVS 709 disc %100 free nowadays, but I own an original WoW blu-ray as well.

HDR calibration is not even possible on some HDR sets. I fully intend to buy a new set in less than 2 years time.

I do not remember exactly, but off the cuff, yes I think it does remember different settings as you would hope it would

Warm 1 and DC medium for HDR.

Warm 1 and DC low for SDR for me.

I wont budge on the normal/full thing though, i'm 100% convinced that setting is the best for gaming.... unless proven otherwise.

It has been a few months since I had a Samsung, and my notes I did not run test with notes the first time around, as the Pro wasn't released yet, so i am willing to accept that I may not be correct on the Samsung. On the Sony, I am positive of the test results. It could be that Samsung is reporting incorrectly during the EDID, but this doesn't really make sense either...

I also agree that sometimes the Samsung needs D.C., although I never use it on my Sony. My current conspiracy theory leads me to believe that the 2084 map is incorrect on some content, and needs to be corrected via D.C. Also, I never use with SDR.

 

[SilverArrow20XX]

Just rechecked.

PS4 Resolution set to Auto puts it to 2160p - RGB. Switching between Auto and RGB does nothing. Switching between either and YUV changes it. (Screen goes black to adjust)
PS4 RGB Range set to Auto puts it to Limited. Switching between Auto and Limited does nothing. Switching between either and Full changes it. (Screen goes black to adjust)

I need to manually set it to Full. I am 100% sure.

 

[Bojanglez]

I heard the PS4 pro rest mode consumes alot of energy,
so I guess I'm out of luck.




My old LG Never turned My PS4 PRO on it's own,
it was only when I turned the PS4 PRO on, then the Tv would turn on.

So whose fault is it, Sony's or the TV?
who should I contact about this?

Hmmm I got my KS8000 on the same day as my Pro so never checked to see if the 'issue' existed with my normal PS4. I'm pretty sure it is the TV sending an HDMI-CEC command to the PS4 when it switches on (as the PS4 is presumably the last active HDMI connection you were on when the TV was last on.

Now having said that, the other night I was watching Amazon (via the KS8000 app) and I switched the TV off. This triggered my PS4 Pro to switch on (whilst the TV switched off). So I think there is definitely something strange going on with the TV.

I can't see any advanced options for Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) in the TV other than the ability to toggle it on/off altogether. I'm pretty sure my LG let me control this per port and even set the default HDMI input to activate upon power on (if any). So it's a shame a 2016 Samsung can not do the same.

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

I'm eagerly awaiting the conclusion to the auto/auto full/standard debate.

Lol.

Thanks for waiting!

What I found confirms my experience from earlier.

PS4 Resolution = 2160p - RGB (manually set)
RGB = Automatic
HDMI Black Level = Automatic AND Low
-> Picture looks proper. Dark spaces and good contrast with discernible detail.​

BUT, at:

PS4 Resolution = 2160p - RGB (manually set)
RGB = Automatic
HDMI Black Level = Normal
-> The picture gets washed out. Way too pale and grey to be natural.​

This tells me that even when the RGB resolution is forced (2160p - RGB), the PS4 does gameplay in a way that matches the TV's Low setting.

But when I do:

PS4 Resolution = 2160p - RGB (manually set)
RGB = Full
HDMI Black Level = Auto AND Low
-> This is a mismatch. Blacks are crushed. A cave opening in Tomb Raider that's dark but still shows subtle details of rock outcroppings and the like becomes just pitch-black -- no detail whatsoever.​

Interestingly, it seems the TV's Auto setting is not distinguishing when the PS4 Pro setting changes. No matter what, Auto is always the same effect as Low, whether that means a match (because the PS4 is in Auto/Limited) or a mismatch (when PS4 is in Full)

Finally,

PS4 Resolution = 2160p - RGB (manually set)
RGB = Full
HDMI Black Level = Normal
-> This is a great picture and near-identical to Auto/Auto | Auto/Low​

TL;DR - PS4 Full plus TV Normal is a match and looks near-identical to PS4 Auto plus TV Auto, which is also a match. However, my 55" KS8000's "Auto" setting is just a synonym for "Low" -- it always matched whatever "Low's" effect on the picture was (regardless of whether I was outputting Full or Limited), so I'm not even sure HBL Auto is working like how we expect.

Indeed, switching between Limited and Auto on the PS4 caused nothing to change. No momentary screen cut-out, no color range, nada. But switching from Auto to Full caused a 1-2 second blackout.

Unless I'm missing something, I've concluded that PS4 RGB "Auto" outputs a limited range of 16-235, which both TV Auto and TV Low match. That's why Auto/Auto is a fine setting that will look great for all kinds of content. But upon forcing PS4 RGB to Full, Normal is the setting that matches. If you want to play your games with the Full RGB range of 0-255, I believe Full/Normal is the only way to do that.

 

[pgharavi]

I'm not too familiar with ARC; is that preferable to optical? I currently have the tv box and ps4 into the ks8000 and then optical from the input box to my receiver...is doing it via HDMI (ARC) better?

One plus of using ARC is that you only have to use one remote, and one less cable. But both methods are limited to 2.0 PCM or 5.1 DD/DTS.

Sucks to lose uncompressed Linear PSM 5.1 and DTS-MA

 

[III-V]

Just rechecked.

PS4 Resolution set to Auto puts it to 2160p - RGB. Switching between Auto and RGB does nothing. Switching between either and YUV changes it.
PS4 RGB Range set to Auto puts it to Limited. Switching between Auto and Limited does nothing. Switching between either and Full changes it.

I need to manually set it to Full. I am 100% sure.

So your saying changing the video range to auto then changes the output to RGB 4:4:4 limited?! Does that even make sense?

Double check your video output settings and make sure it did not switch to YUV...

Does the set have an auto setting for video level? If so, then that is what it needs to be in to conduct the test.


1st test: all in auto... then check PS4 video output settings to confirm resolution. Should be RGB 4:4:4. Then Switch the TV output from auto to low/normal...

In all auto do you see confirmation of RGB 4:4:4 in PS4 video output settings?

 

[noomi]

My testing resulted in the same findings as Kyle.

RGB range auto sets the ps4 to limited, checking output settings shows exactly this. I can try to take a video later, but i promise you this is what is happening.

 

[TLZ]

Good to know. Fingers crossed this will do it for me.

I feel like I'm abnormal or something when people continue to praise LG's OLED as superior while not commenting at all about the lower brightness. It's not like I want the TV blasting my eyes into oblivion, but when something as simple as a white background from a show like Bob's Burgers fails to be pure white:

I just can't accept the trade-off.

Is it just an apples and oranges thing where people prefer LCD/LED over Plasma/OLED?

I've had my beloved plasma for 7 years and loved it to bits and love this one as well.

Just got a 55 inch Samsung KS8000 at $899. Price matched Micro Center at Best Buy. The TV looks amazing, but one thing immediately concerns me. There are no analog inputs! No Component, RCA, etc. So I can't use my Wii or PS2 with the TV, which I frequently play. What's the best solution for this?

My KS9500 came with component. Are you sure yours didnt? And my box does have component inputs too, just looks different.

 

[SilverArrow20XX]

So your saying changing the video range to auto then changes the output to RGB 4:4:4 limited?! Does that even make sense?

Double check your video output settings and make sure it did not switch to YUV...

Yes. Changing Resolution to Auto from anything else changes it to 2160p - RGB, and changing the RGB Range to Auto from anything else puts it to limited.

It doesn't make sense. A 1150 bug perhaps?

I would think Auto SHOULD give me Full and afterwards, my TV's HBL auto SHOULD give my Normal. The autos always give Limited and Low though for some reason.

 

[SeanR1221]

I just put auto everything and the picture is awesome

 

[pgharavi]

Reds are a little...too red? What would be the proper course to tone down the reds?

 

[SilverArrow20XX]

Reds are a little...too red? What would be the proper course to tone down the reds?

Color Space Native makes reds way too ......red. So make sure it's on Auto.

 

[CrimsonEclipse]

Damn, I all into tech but this shit feel confusing af to me. Also, has anyone noticed their KS8000 not being able to connect to Wi-Fi after it's powered off and turned back on? Mine seem to have an issue with not re-connecting.

 

[pgharavi]

Color Space Native makes reds way too ......red. So make sure it's on Auto.

Auto since day 1. Thanks though.

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

1st test: all in auto... then check PS4 video output settings to confirm resolution. Should be RGB 4:4:4. Then Switch the TV output from auto to low/normal...

In all auto do you see confirmation of RGB 4:4:4 in PS4 video output settings?

For me, it's just "RGB" there, not RGB 4:4:4. But yes, it says so whether I'm in Auto, Limited, or Full. When I enter HDR or manually switch resolutions, it can say YUV420.

Bottom line for me that on PS4, Auto is the same as Limited, and on TV, Auto is the same as Low. That second part is true no matter what the source, so when I force PS4 to Full RGB, it gets crushed on TV Auto. That's why I'm going Full/Normal.

 

[ViciousDS]

It's time

 

[SilverArrow20XX]

Hmmm. Just updated to 1152, which supposedly added youtube HDR support, but it's not activating when I play HDR youtube videos.

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

It's time

Dang, The Martian HDR is probably exceptional.

 

[Sleeping Lesson]

It's time

Neither of those movies are true 4K, so they may not be the most impressive demos for the TV.

 

[Veitsev]

Auto since day 1. Thanks though.

What is your color tone setting?

 

[III-V]

For me, it's just "RGB" there, not RGB 4:4:4. But yes, it says so whether I'm in Auto, Limited, or Full. When I enter HDR or manually switch resolutions, it can say YUV420.

No doubt you have a method that is working properly, and I do not question that, as I do not have this set handy to verify results. I will not recommend that KS8000 users use auto/auto for 8-bit RGB 4:4:4 (full).

What isn't clear is why all auto outputs 8-bit RGB full to other sets, such as mine which I have thoroughly tested and verified with other users and not this one.

So- to be clear: all auto in the Samsung KS8000 and PS4 Pro results in RGB limited for non-HDR content? And the Samsung FAQ is incorrect in that there is now way to properly receive RGB video levels with low, as it states?

 

[Haines]

Well it seems full/Normal it is. How come we are.forcing resolution in your notes and not just using Auto on that setting?

And I belive you guys said it can be left on that just like you would auto /auto right?

I forget kyle. Do you use DC for HDR. Also curious what you think of color tone for gaming.

You seem to be a stickler for best setting so wondered what your conclusions on these were.

I think I settled at warm 1 and dc off.

But some people claim different games need different DC etc and I've only tried a few.

 

[FarFromAnyGame]

Thanks for waiting!

What I found confirms my experience from earlier.

PS4 Resolution = 2160p - RGB (manually set)
RGB = Automatic
HDMI Black Level = Automatic AND Low
-> Picture looks proper. Dark spaces and good contrast with discernible detail.​

BUT, at:

PS4 Resolution = 2160p - RGB (manually set)
RGB = Automatic
HDMI Black Level = Normal
-> The picture gets washed out. Way too pale and grey to be natural.​

This tells me that even when the RGB resolution is forced (2160p - RGB), the PS4 does gameplay in a way that matches the TV's Low setting.

But when I do:

PS4 Resolution = 2160p - RGB (manually set)
RGB = Full
HDMI Black Level = Auto AND Low
-> This is a mismatch. Blacks are crushed. A cave opening in Tomb Raider that's dark but still shows subtle details of rock outcroppings and the like becomes just pitch-black -- no detail whatsoever.​

Interestingly, it seems the TV's Auto setting is not distinguishing when the PS4 Pro setting changes. No matter what, Auto is always the same effect as Low, whether that means a match (because the PS4 is in Auto/Limited) or a mismatch (when PS4 is in Full)

Finally,

PS4 Resolution = 2160p - RGB (manually set)
RGB = Full
HDMI Black Level = Normal
-> This is a great picture and near-identical to Auto/Auto | Auto/Low​

TL;DR - PS4 Full plus TV Normal is a match and looks near-identical to PS4 Auto plus TV Auto, which is also a match. However, my 55" KS8000's "Auto" setting is just a synonym for "Low" -- it always matched whatever "Low's" effect on the picture was (regardless of whether I was outputting Full or Limited), so I'm not even sure HBL Auto is working like how we expect.

Indeed, switching between Limited and Auto on the PS4 caused nothing to change. No momentary screen cut-out, no color range, nada. But switching from Auto to Full caused a 1-2 second blackout.

Unless I'm missing something, I've concluded that PS4 RGB "Auto" outputs a limited range of 16-235, which both TV Auto and TV Low match. That's why Auto/Auto is a fine setting that will look great for all kinds of content. But upon forcing PS4 RGB to Full, Normal is the setting that matches. If you want to play your games with the Full RGB range of 0-255, I believe Full/Normal is the only way to do that.

If you leave the TV on auto it will change to Full when you set PS4 to Full(after setting the TV to Auto).
But if you keep changing the TV's while PS4 is on full, it will auto to low. it only changes appropriately when it detects a new signal (it goes black to adjust).

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

So- to be clear: all auto in the Samsung KS8000 and PS4 Pro results in RGB limited for non-HDR content? And the Samsung FAQ is incorrect in that there is now way to properly receive RGB video levels with low, as it states?

Yes, this is accurate as I've observed. PS4's Auto is the same as Limited and TV's Auto has the same effect as Low, which means at Auto/Auto, you do get a proper match but it's a Limited range. To optimize, you force PS4 to Full, but the TV's Auto is still equivalent to Low -- crushing blacks unless you go Normal.

If you leave the TV on auto it will change to Full when you set PS4 to Full(after setting the TV to Auto).

No, it won't. When the TV was on Auto, and I forced PS4 from Auto to Full, the TV stayed in Auto, which is identical to the Low setting in that it crushes blacks. Only when I *manually* set the TV to Normal does it properly sync with Full for a proper combination of the two.

 

[III-V]

If you leave the TV on auto it will change to Full when you set PS4 to Full(after setting the TV to Auto).
But if you keep changing the TV's while PS4 is on full, it will auto to low. it only changes appropriately when it detects a new signal (it goes black to adjust).

Well that would explain some inconsistencies if this is accurate.

No, it won't. When the TV is on Auto, and I forced PS4 from Auto to Full, the TV stays in Auto, which is identical to the Low setting in that it crushes blacks. Only when I *manually* set the TV to Normal does it properly sync with Full. TV Auto does not.

This is exactly what I am describing. If you are in auto, TV and you change PS4 Pro from auto to full, and there is no change, As in the screen does not go black, then it was in Full the entire time! Only when you see the TV go black do you know it is changing.

 

[TLZ]

Well it seems full/Normal it is. How come we are.forcing resolution in your notes and not just using Auto on that setting?

And I belive you guys said it can be left on that just like you would auto /auto right?

I forget kyle. Do you use DC for HDR. Also curious what you think of color tone for gaming.

You seem to be a stickler for best setting so wondered what your conclusions on these were.

I think I settled at warm 1 and dc off.

But some people claim different games need different DC etc and I've only tried a few.

Imo, DC depends on the content. For example, I've had infamous on medium because without it it's very dark. Whereas for FFXV jp demo and ratchet & clank DC was off and looked perfect without it, just the backlight maxed. I'd also recommend trying in-game brightness first before playing with DC.

 

[ViciousDS]

Neither of those movies are true 4K, so they may not be the most impressive demos for the TV.

The Martian is actually 50% 4K, any scenes that use CGI though is 2k


I got mad max more for HDR as I heard it's amazing

 

[DreadfulOmen]

Went to the AVS thread and saw this:


Seems like the DC fight continues...

Youll also see people say to turn it off. Not everyone at avs is a industry standard supporter. You have the purist that wont turn on DC, and you also have a lot of people that dont like 6500k settings. It's preference.

 

[Pantz]

Testing some pictures from my phone of a boulder in Skyrim on PS4 Pro. Sorry they are from a phone so it's not super accurate.
If I were to guess I'd say that there is 0 difference between full auto and forced RGB/Black Level settings.
If there really is an extra 1-15 black level or whetever I can't see it. I'll continue watching though to see if anyone can prove the extra 1-15 black levels are really there or not when forced.

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

This is exactly what I am describing. If you are in auto, TV and you change PS4 Pro from auto to full, and there is no change, As in the screen does not go black, then it was in Full the entire time! Only when you see the TV go black do you know it is changing.

The opposite was happening, though. When I switched from PS4 Auto to PS4 Limited, there was no change. The black screen and change happens when I go from PS4 Auto to PS4 Full. Hence, Auto is equivalent to Limited.

But if you keep changing the TV's while PS4 is on full, it will auto to low. it only changes appropriately when it detects a new signal (it goes black to adjust).

This put another idea in my head. For a higher level test, I did the following:

1. Make sure TV black level set to Auto
2. Make sure PS4 RGB manually set to Full
3. Put PS4 in Rest Mode and immediately awaken

Under the above conditions, the color was properly displayed. All of a sudden, Auto = Normal! I could tell because it looked the same when I switched it to Normal.

BUT BUT BUT when I went back to Auto, suddenly, Auto matches Low again and crushes black. This is all happening within the same settings window, without ever leaving. It's like the Auto setting is sticky or something and wants desperately to mimic the Low setting.

 

[shakey]

No doubt you have a method that is working properly, and I do not question that, as I do not have this set handy to verify results. I will not recommend that KS8000 users use auto/auto for 8-bit RGB 4:4:4 (full).

What isn't clear is why all auto outputs 8-bit RGB full to other sets, such as mine which I have thoroughly tested and verified with other users and not this one.

So- to be clear: all auto in the Samsung KS8000 and PS4 Pro results in RGB limited for non-HDR content? And the Samsung FAQ is incorrect in that there is now way to properly receive RGB video levels with low, as it states?

Yes. It's an issue with the PS4 and Samsung sets. The signal is getting mixed up somehow and results in limited on the PS4.

Found this out a bit ago on AVS KS800 thread. It's how we all came to the conclusion of settings PS4 to full and the TV to Normal.

Not sure why, not sure who's side it actually lies on... And a fix would be great. But at least we know it's an issue and have ways to correct it.

 

[DreadfulOmen]

Reds are a little...too red? What would be the proper course to tone down the reds?

Adjust the cms. If you need to make changes to red.

 

[Y2Kev]

How do I make it stop autodimming when it gets dark in my room? It's like bipolar

 

[III-V]

If I were to guess I'd say that there is 0 difference between full auto and forced RGB/Black Level settings.
If there really is an extra 1-15 black level or whetever I can't see it. I'll continue watching though to see if anyone can prove the extra 1-15 black levels are really there or not when forced.

This is what I saw as well.

This put another idea in my head. For a higher level test, I did the following:

1. Make sure TV black level set to Auto
2. Make sure PS4 RGB manually set to Full
3. Put PS4 in Rest Mode and immediately awaken

Under the above conditions, the color was properly displayed. All of a sudden, Auto = Normal! I could tell because it looked the same when I switched it to Normal.

BUT BUT BUT when I went back to Auto, suddenly, Auto matches Low again and crushes black. This is all happening within the same settings window, without ever leaving. It's like the Auto setting is sticky or something and wants desperately to mimic the Low setting.

Oh shit!

Yes. It's an issue with the PS4 and Samsung sets. The signal is getting mixed up somehow and results in limited on the PS4.

Found this out a bit ago on AVS KS800 thread. It's how we all came to the conclusion of settings PS4 to full and the TV to Normal.

Not sure why, not sure who's side it actually lies on... And a fix would be great. But at least we know it's an issue and have ways to correct it.

Lmao - where were you an hour ago?

So I think this must get chalked up to an EDID issue, as a certain boot sequence results in proper auto TV function.
in this case, best to force settings and that really stinks.

 

[DreadfulOmen]

How do I make it stop autodimming when it gets dark in my room? It's like bipolar

Turn off eco settings.

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

Yes. It's an issue with the PS4 and Samsung sets. The signal is getting mixed up somehow and results in limited on the PS4.

Found this out a bit ago on AVS KS800 thread. It's how we all came to the conclusion of settings PS4 to full and the TV to Normal.

Not sure why, not sure who's side it actually lies on... And a fix would be great. But at least we know it's an issue and have ways to correct it.

Lmao

What the eff i don't even

I also agree that there isn't a perceptible difference in the Skyrim example above between Auto/Auto and Full/Normal, but without a doubt, seems the Auto setting on the TV is glitched in some way.

I forget kyle. Do you use DC for HDR. Also curious what you think of color tone for gaming.

You seem to be a stickler for best setting so wondered what your conclusions on these were.

I think I settled at warm 1 and dc off.

But some people claim different games need different DC etc and I've only tried a few.

TBH, I've just been following the consensus on those options. I do notice that DC crushes blacks at Medium and High when I played FFXV in HDR.

The Full/Normal vs Auto/Auto discussion to me has an objective answer, but the other settings we talk do have a small degree of personal preference. FWIW, I love how my games look at your suggested settings and I'm hesitant to change them lest the madness go even deeper.

 

[Aztechnology]

How do I make it stop autodimming when it gets dark in my room? It's like bipolar

Go to settings/system/eco solution and turn off eco sensor and energy savings mode.

 

[AngelOFDeath]

The opposite was happening, though. When I switched from PS4 Auto to PS4 Limited, there was no change. The black screen and change happens when I go from PS4 Auto to PS4 Full. Hence, Auto is equivalent to Limited.



This put another idea in my head. For a higher level test, I did the following:

1. Make sure TV black level set to Auto
2. Make sure PS4 RGB manually set to Full
3. Put PS4 in Rest Mode and immediately awaken

Under the above conditions, the color was properly displayed. All of a sudden, Auto = Normal! I could tell because it looked the same when I switched it to Normal.

BUT BUT BUT when I went back to Auto, suddenly, Auto matches Low again and crushes black. This is all happening within the same settings window, without ever leaving. It's like the Auto setting is sticky or something and wants desperately to mimic the Low setting.

Funny my test showed the opposite of what you said, auto to full, TV HBL auto to normal did zero change making me believe auto/auto is full/normal.

 

[FarFromAnyGame]

No, it won't. When the TV was on Auto, and I forced PS4 from Auto to Full, the TV stayed in Auto, which is identical to the Low setting in that it crushes blacks. Only when I *manually* set the TV to Normal does it properly sync with Full for a proper combination of the two.

It will. I'll make a video showing it when I have time.

This put another idea in my head. For a higher level test, I did the following:

1. Make sure TV black level set to Auto
2. Make sure PS4 RGB manually set to Full
3. Put PS4 in Rest Mode and immediately awaken

Under the above conditions, the color was properly displayed. All of a sudden, Auto = Normal! I could tell because it looked the same when I switched it to Normal.

BUT BUT BUT when I went back to Auto, suddenly, Auto matches Low again and crushes black. This is all happening within the same settings window, without ever leaving. It's like the Auto setting is sticky or something and wants desperately to mimic the Low setting.

Yeah, that's my observation. If you set it to Auto on the TV and forget about it, it will work properly. But if you try to change it, it will be Auto = Low (TV black level) until you turn the PS4 off and on again.

 

[DreadfulOmen]

I just picked up a pro last night. Auto/auto and it looks great. Hdr in uncharted is pretty nice. The way the light reflects off of certain things looks really good.

 

[Y2Kev]

Go to settings/system/eco solution and turn off eco sensor and energy savings mode.

good lawd it's like turning a light on

1000 nits goooooo

 

[SilverArrow20XX]

It will. I'll make a video showing it when I have time.



Yeah, that's my observation. If you set it to Auto on the TV and forget about it, it will work properly. But if you try to change it, it will be Auto = Low (TV black level) until you turn the PS4 off and on again.

Yup. This is how it is for me too. When I change to Full it autos to Normal, until I touch it, then Auto becomes Low. So there's part of the puzzle. 1152 didn't fix it. Wonder if it's on Samsung's or Sony's side.