KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

Still trying to decide if I wanna keep this set, I also have a 850D Sony. So debating between the two. On the Samsung, how do you turn on HDR? On the Sony I know you have to set the HDMI input to enhanced but I don't see an option like that in the Samsung. All I see is HDR+ for special viewing.

Sorta jist jumping in on the thread so sorry if this has been answered already.
 
Still trying to decide if I wanna keep this set, I also have a 850D Sony. So debating between the two. On the Samsung, how do you turn on HDR? On the Sony I know you have to set the HDMI input to enhanced but I don't see an option like that in the Samsung. All I see is HDR+ for special viewing.

Sorta jist jumping in on the thread so sorry if this has been answered already.


Check out first post. I think my settings i have further down are accurate.
 
I belive they were claiming ps4 on auto only puts in limited and not full. Not entirely sure. I tried to update the OP. Hopefully it's right. I can't test it myself to see.

Can you tell me the setting name and the exact setting word.

RGB = Full or whatever it is

This is good to know. I think, for me at least, I have a lot of distrust for "auto" features, but it seems the KS and PS4 Pro speak well enough to each other that you'll get the right RGB range (specifically, getting YUV for HDR content and RGB for non-HDR).

The auto feature works, I tested it multiple times and am 100% certain. The TV will recognize the HDMI Black Level (RGB Range on the PS4) setting the PS4 is using. However, if you set the PS4 RGB Range To Automatic it will always default to Limited.
 
I belive they were claiming ps4 on auto only puts in limited and not full. Not entirely sure. I tried to update the OP. Hopefully it's right. I can't test it myself to see.

Can you tell me the setting name and the exact setting word.

RGB = Full or whatever it is

Full/limited refer to RGB Video levels. Is that what your asking?

We have had several posters in the other thread confirm that Pro puts out 4:4:4 full RGB when set to auto.

This is good to know. I think, for me at least, I have a lot of distrust for "auto" features, but it seems the KS and PS4 Pro speak well enough to each other that you'll get the right RGB range (specifically, getting YUV for HDR content and RGB for non-HDR).

The KS8000, the and Sony Bravia models are all confirmed to function properly with video levels set to auto... Samsung did have a known bug with color space set to auto, but supposedly this is now fixed.
 
I'm a bit curious about input lag with the KS8000. I'm looking at the rtings review that has different modes tested for input lag.

I don't really understand what all these different modes mean, or which ones the PS4Pro uses... maybe someone can elaborate .

0f4eMKP.png


Out of these ^^ which ones would the PS4Pro ever use?

1080p @ 60hz - for regular games
4k @ 60Hz - for native 4k games

what about HDR, and what about games that uses resolutions between 1080p - 4K. Some use 1400p, some 1800p...etc

PS4 Pro doesn't switch down to lower resolutions for non Pro games. It does it's own internal scaling thus its only ever in 4k @ 60Hz or 4k @ 60Hz + HDR. I'm not sure if it uses 4:4:4 unless you force it.

When I tried to force 4:4:4 my PS4 Pro stopped displaying correctly on my KS8000, but I only tried it once, might've been a weird glitch.
 
Ok I can't look at my ps4.

Rbg range = Full

For gaming. Correct? Auto only does RGB in limited is the problem?

Just lemme know if the op settings are wrong in any way. I was going to do it up nicely last night but ended up dealing with insurance instead.
 
PS4 Pro doesn't switch down to lower resolutions for non Pro games. It does it's own internal scaling thus its only ever in 4k @ 60Hz or 4k @ 60Hz + HDR. I'm not sure if it uses 4:4:4 unless you force it.

When I tried to force 4:4:4 my PS4 Pro stopped displaying correctly on my KS8000, but I only tried it once, might've been a weird glitch.

Got it! This is what I was looking for! :D

So basically anything that is not native 4K, gets up-scaled to 4K anyway.

Just out of curiosity, how would you even force 4:4:4

Ok I can't look at my ps4.

Rbg range = Full

For gaming. Correct? Auto only does RGB in limited is the problem?

Just lemme know if the op settings are wrong in any way. I was going to do it up nicely last night but ended up dealing with insurance instead.

Yeah man you got it.

For gaming only you want:

HDMI Black Level: Normal & RGB Range: Full

For Media you want:

HDMI Black Level: Low or Auto & RGB Range: Low or Auto
 
Pro tip:

set the PS4 Pro video output settings and your TV set RGB (video) range to auto for the exact same result.

Standard Pro game will output 2160p 8-bit RGB 4:4:4 (full) and HDR game will be YUV 422 or 420 limited, 10 or 12 bits.

This only has to be as difficult as we want it to be.

When both are set to Auto, the picture does indeed look good. But when my PS4 Pro is set to Auto and I manually set HBL to Normal, the picture in-game gets really washed out--a sure sign that things aren't in sync, and that PS4's "Auto" does not represent the entire 0-255 range.

Meanwhile, at Full and Normal, things look appropriate. Same at Auto/Low, or Limited/Low. Because they match. But Auto/Normal does not (for me).

The two things don't compute. If what you're saying is true, and RGB = Auto properly puts out the full 0-255 color range in-game, then either my console is different or my understanding of this, top to bottom, is wrong.

Which isn't impossible. But I feel pretty good about what I found.

EDIT:

Auto on PS4 Pro outputs RGB Limited.

Yeah, all the puzzle pieces fit if this is true. Which is visible when you adjust settings to create matches and mismatches.
 
Lol so I changed from auto to full/HBL changed from auto to normal and got the exact same picture, it didn't even change. Only changing my tv to Low crushed blacks, so why isn't auto the way to go again?
 
Lol so I changed from auto to full/HBL changed from auto to normal and got the exact same picture, it didn't even change. Only changing my tv to Low crushed blacks, so why isn't auto the way to go again?

Auto (16-235) matches Low (16-235)

Full (0-255) matches Normal (0-255)

In both cases, the colors are accurate, but the latter fits games, which are developed on 0-255 RGB monitors, slightly more accurately. There are additional gradations of brightness (1-15 and 236-235) on either end.
 
HDMI Black Level on the TV Set to Automatic:
Change PS4 to Limited, the TV will change to Low/Limited.
Change PS4 to Full, the TV will change to Normal/Full.

RGB Range on the PS4 Set To Automatic:
Change the TV to Full, the PS4 will remain at limited.
Change the TV to Limited, The PS4 will remain at limited.

There is communication between the set and the PS4 Pro, it's called the EDID. This communication tells the Pro if your TV is 2K or 4K or HDR capable or not. Changing the video level settings of the TV will never affect the PS4 output. The Pro is the signal generator, the TV is the load.

Are you testing with a Pro-patch enabled game? That could be the cause of the discrepancy.
 
Unfortunately, I do not know.

So much truth here. It's what first caused me to think Full/Low was correct -- colors do appear more vibrant. The fires and sunlight in Tomb Raider felt eye-searing.

But then I loaded up Modern Warfare Remastered. In the first room of training, there's a cabinet on the right that was just bathed in black. I couldn't see anything except a pitch black silhouette, and pitch black shadow around it. It just looked wrong. Correcting my settings caused me to realize: the cabinet is actually dark brown! And, wow, I can see the hinges and door knob, and the ground around it!

You see, I've been arguing about this for a while,
with my settings I get all these details and I'm still able to have DC on.
So i'm lost for words at this point.
 
Auto on PS4 Pro outputs RGB Limited.

Only if you force a 2160p w/ YUV chroma subsampling resolution.

When both are set to Auto, the picture does indeed look good. But when my PS4 Pro is set to Auto and I manually set HBL to Normal, the picture in-game gets really washed out--a sure sign that things aren't in sync, and that PS4's "Auto" does not represent the entire 0-255 range.

Meanwhile, at Full and Normal, things look appropriate. Same at Auto/Low

What is your output video resolution setting? If YUV....
 
You see, I've been arguing about this for a while,
with my settings I get all these details and I'm still able to have DC on.
So i'm lost for words at this point.

Oh, I've no idea how DC factors into this. I've only been discussing HDMI Black Level.

I think with DC, you're probably distorting the intended color palette a bit, but I imagine you can still make out some details in dark places with it on.

What is your output video resolution setting? If YUV....

Sorry, I'm making too many edits, too quickly. I'm at Resolution Auto, which I can see is 2160p - RGB in the Video Output Settings.

At Resolution Auto and RGB Auto, in Rise of the Tomb Raider (Pro-patched), the Normal setting for HDMI Black Level is washed out. At Low, it's fine.

If I force RGB Full, then HBL Normal looks fine. Full matches Normal.

How could people have found that RGB Auto = Full? It's the opposite for me and at least a few other users.
 
Oh, I've no idea how DC factors into this. I've only been discussing HDMI Black Level.

I think with DC, you're probably distorting the intended color palette a bit, but I imagine you can still make out some details in dark places with it on.



At Resolution Auto and RGB Auto, in Rise of the Tomb Raider (Pro-patched), the Normal setting for HDMI Black Level is washed out. At Low, it's fine.

If I force RGB Full, then HBL Normal looks fine. Full matches Normal.

So, despite the Pro patch, RGB Auto is Limited for me.

How could people have found that RGB Auto = Full? It's the opposite for me and at least a few other users.

I've been saying that, in the FFXV latest demo with HDR
it's the only way I'm able to enable HDR for that game with my set, if DC is not on, the image looks lifeless, or well the original way.
but here's the interesting part, if I enable DC with other games (non hdr compat), it does almost nothing for other games, other than slightly adjust the gray colors a bit darker or lighter.

Anyhow-I don't want to beat a dead horse anymore-
I'm currently wanting to know if people enable that motion option,
it makes 30FPS games feel like they are running at 60FPS, but there is some stuttering, even tough the toggle says "to avoid stuttering"
 
I will be getting mine delivered tomorrow, and I was wondering about HDMI cables. Will the one that came with my launch PS4 be sufficient to transmit HDR/4K from streaming?
 
There is communication between the set and the PS4 Pro, it's called the EDID. This communication tells the Pro if your TV is 2K or 4K or HDR capable or not. Changing the video level settings of the TV will never affect the PS4 output. The Pro is the signal generator, the TV is the load.

Are you testing with a Pro-patch enabled game? That could be the cause of the discrepancy.

Yup, this is what I though as well. The PS4 tells the TV what to set HDMI Black level to, not the other way around.

All I was saying is that if the RGB Range on the PS4 is set to Automatic, it will always default to Limited.

As Kyle and a few others have mentioned, the best setting for gaming is HBL=Normal and RGB Range=Full.

Alternatively, you could also set:
HBL=Low and RGB Range=Limited (this results in 16-235)
HBL=Auto and RGB Range=Auto (this also results in 16-235 since the PS4 Auto setting is always defaulted to Low)
 
How could people have found that RGB Auto = Full? It's the opposite for me and at least a few other users.

I do not think Samsung's black level setting works the way that you think that it does. It is very poorly worded, but Read the description:

http://www.samsung.com/in/support/skp/faq/1050424

It not clear cut that normal is always full and low is always limited. It states low can be set to get full from a YUV chroma compressed source!

I can assure you that on the Sony X800D, the PS4 Pro all auto output does default to 8-bit RGB 4:4:4 full, and an HDR enabled game does output at limited YUV420 or 422. I had a Samsung for a few weeks, but do not have it anymore to go take screenshots.

My suspicion is that this Samsung setting has confused the piss out of 100% of people. I am able to validate the bit depth and chroma with my AVR. I can take photo evidence but not until maybe Sunday.
 
I do not think Samsung's black level setting works the way that you think that it does. It is very poorly worded, but Read the description:

http://www.samsung.com/in/support/skp/faq/1050424

. . .

My suspicion is that this Samsung setting has confused the piss out of 100% of people. I am able to validate the bit depth and chroma with my AVR. I can take photo evidence but not until maybe Sunday.

Going by that link's description, it makes sense why Limited/Low and Full/Normal would look near identical. The issue I've had is, with PS4 RGB = Auto and HBL at Low, it looks the same as Full/Normal. Which is how I got on the track of Auto = 16-235 = Limited.

When I get home from work (damn this TV calibration black hole!!), I will set HDMI Black Level to Auto, turn on the PS4 Pro, and manually set a 2160p - RGB resolution, with RGB at Auto. Then I'll boot up Tomb Raider.

Following your logic, if the PS4 Pro does in fact output at full 0-255 when in Auto, then the TV should recognize this, and the HBL "Auto" and "Normal" settings should look the same.

I believe I've tried this exact thing, but I'm happy to do it again. I'd rather learn than speak blindly, but my conclusions came after a great deal of time and comparison.
 
When I get home from work (damn this TV calibration black hole!!), I will set HDMI Black Level to Auto, turn on the PS4 Pro, and manually set a 2160p - RGB resolution, with RGB at Auto. Then I'll boot up Tomb Raider.

Following your logic, if the PS4 Pro does in fact output at full 0-255 when in Auto, then the TV should recognize this, and the HDMI Black Level "Auto" and "Normal" settings should look the same.

I believe I've tried this exact thing, but I'm happy to do it again. I'd rather learn than speak blindly, but my conclusions came after a great deal of time and comparison.

couldn't you just leave TV to auto and have the PS4 forced to do what range you want instead of messing with both?


Since I want 21ms input lag.....my settings will permanently stay most likely at the YUV setting
 
couldn't you just leave TV to auto and have the PS4 forced to do what range you want instead of messing with both?

Yeah, I will double-check that too. I've been focused on the manual matching and not trusting Auto, but if Auto/Auto is indeed the same as Full/Normal, that would be excellent. I'm just positive that I tried that already, but I'll happily double-check when confronted with similar confidence.
 
Following your logic, if the PS4 Pro does in fact output at full 0-255 when in Auto, then the TV should recognize this, and the HBL "Auto" and "Normal" settings should look the same.

I believe I've tried this exact thing, but I'm happy to do it again. I'd rather learn than speak blindly, but my conclusions came after a great deal of time and comparison.

I ran a whole slew of tests and documented the results in another thread. I used inFamous Second Son so I could also test HDR on/off, let me see if I can dig that up. If you are willing to repeat those tests (or similar) on your set that would be awesome.

Edit: See below




I ran the signal thru my Denon AVR-X1300W (full HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0a compliant) where I can view the HDMI signal information and can confirm the following:

Auto PS4 settings:

Game does not implement HDR:
Resolution: 4K:60Hz
Color Space: RGB
Pixel Depth: 8-bit
RGB Range: Full

Game does implement HDR*
Resolution: 4K:60Hz
Color Space: BT. 2020 YCbCr (YUV 422 from PS4 Video Output Test)
Pixel Depth: --- (assumed 12-bit)
RGB Range: Limited

Forced YUV 420 Settings

Resolution: 4K:60Hz
Color Space: BT. 2020 YCbCr (forced YUV420 from PS4 Video Output Test)
Pixel Depth: 10-bit
RGB Range: Limited

A few notes:
1.) with HDR on, the display should be in RGB Range: Limited, always. In fact, it has been made idiot proof on the PS4 side, as changing RGB Range in the PS$ with HDR active does nothing: the PS4 puts out limited. Make sure your display is not forced to FULL., as its will wash out.
2.) If you have a Sony X800D (which a few of us do) I did not see any problems such as banding with everything set to auto on both sides. In each case, auto PS4 settings were accurately received by the display.
3.) If you are seeing visible banding with Auto settings, or know your display will not properly accept the 12-bit 422 signal use the PS4 to force YUV420.
 
I ran a whole slew of tests and documented the results in another thread. I used inFamous Second Son so I could also test HDR on/off, let me see if I can dig that up. If you are willing to repeat those tests (or similar) on your set that would be awesome.

Yeah, happy to. I do hope that, in 2160p - RGB, Auto/Auto does equal Full/Normal, though it would mean I've spent a couple pages advocating for the latter when the former is just fine!
 
KyleOnTheRun,
does your TV turn on the PS4 when you turn the TV on?
I have a PS4 pro and it's turning itself on when all I want to do is watch TV.

Mine does this. I had to turn off "Enable HDMI Device Link" in the PS4 Settings. It is actually the TV's fault though. On my old LG I used to be able to tell it how to act upon TV on (e.g. default to Input X) but this TV seems to default to whatever you had on last, So if you were playing the PS4, switched it off, then came back to the TV and switched it on, it would use the PS4 input and auto trigger it to power on.
 
Nice. I don't have the equipment to reproduce, but if PS4 Auto / HBL Auto = PS4 Full / HBL Normal in SDR, but HBL Auto and Low look the same in HDR, that should confirm what you've found.
IIRC, your set black level setting will be "greyed out" when HDR game is playing.
 
IIRC, your set black level setting will be "greyed out" when HDR game is playing.

So, Auto TV/Auto PS4 defaults to RGB Full for Non-HDR games, and defaults to Limited with an HDR signal?

Would that not throw off some of your settings if you've, presumably, calibrated the set when it was displaying Full or Limited?

EDIT: Actually, thought about it more and it shouldn't. If the PS4 and TV are locked into the correct RGB spectrum, the calibrations should look the same...I think.
 
Mine automatically turns on a console if I change to its input. So if, your TV was on the PS4's input when you turned it off, it'd make sense that it automatically gets turned on.

IIRC, your set black level setting will be "greyed out" when HDR game is playing.

Yeah, it'll always be grayed out if you're on YUV.
 
So, Auto TV/Auto PS4 defaults to RGB Full for Non-HDR games, and defaults to Limited with an HDR signal?

Would that not throw off some of your settings if you've, presumably, calibrated the set when it was displaying Full or Limited?

EDIT: Actually, thought about it more and it shouldn't. If the PS4 and TV are locked into the correct RGB spectrum, the calibrations should look the same...I think.

I typically calibrate in the video limited with SDR and Rec 709 color space. To properly calibrate with HDR enabled, you would need a signal generator that can send HDR metadata. Then, you could calibrate greayscale to smite 2084 and Rec2020 50% saturation and below.

The TV and PS4 Pro will at least be in the same video range on the KS8000. On my X800D you can force the incorrect video level on the set if you don't know any better.

In other words, yes, things can go wrong, and many aspects of the SDR calibration have no bearing on what you see in HDR
 
What are your guys settings for Wii U? I kept it similar to my regular display. I can't handle warm2, and use warm1. With contrast at 90, sharp at 10, gamma at -1, low black level and native color space, everything looks pretty good. Color Splash looked very nice.

I haven't tried my regular PS4 yet. Still debating on Pro. I get 15% off from Target but I have to order before the end of the day.
 
I typically calibrate in the video limited with SDR and Rec 709 color space. To properly calibrate with HDR enabled, you would need a signal generator that can send HDR metadata. Then, you could calibrate greayscale to smite 2084 and Rec2020 50% saturation and below.

The TV and PS4 Pro will at least be in the same video range on the KS8000. On my X800D you can force the incorrect video level on the set if you don't know any better.

In other words, yes, things can go wrong, and many aspects of the SDR calibration have no bearing on what you see in HDR

So is it fair to assume that when receiving an HDR signal, the TV hasn't been technically calibrated correctly unless you've calibrated the set while feeding it an HDR signal?
 
Joining this thread late so I'm sure it has been discussed

I was considering this TV (U.K./Ireland) version

I googled ks7000 and PS4 pro to see what people thought, and I was met with some forums of people unable to get the HDR feature to work at all

And I saw no real conclusion as yet.

Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated
 
It does not, but mine is almost always in Rest Mode, so that could be why. I haven't touched any setting that would affect that.

I heard the PS4 pro rest mode consumes alot of energy,
so I guess I'm out of luck.

Mine does this. I had to turn off "Enable HDMI Device Link" in the PS4 Settings. It is actually the TV's fault though. On my old LG I used to be able to tell it how to act upon TV on (e.g. default to Input X) but this TV seems to default to whatever you had on last, So if you were playing the PS4, switched it off, then came back to the TV and switched it on, it would use the PS4 input and auto trigger it to power on.


My old LG Never turned My PS4 PRO on it's own,
it was only when I turned the PS4 PRO on, then the Tv would turn on.

So whose fault is it, Sony's or the TV?
who should I contact about this?
 
So is it fair to assume that when receiving an HDR signal, the TV hasn't been technically calibrated correctly unless you've calibrated the set while feeding it an HDR signal?

I would say that is technically correct. The standard 2.2 power function gamma doesn't exist in HDR. 100% of that signal level only corresponds to about 50% of the smtp2084 curve. The colors are mapped to a different container, even if the saturations remain the same.

Cool video here if you like to geek out. It's a mix of technical and layman s terms, not a strict seminar.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=M0JAKAUu6IE
 
I would say that is technically correct. The standard 2.2 power function gamma doesn't exist in HDR. 100% of that signal level only corresponds to about 50% of the smtp2084 curve. The colors are mapped to a different container, even if the saturations remain the same.

Cool video here if you like to geek out. It's a mix of technical and layman s terms, not a strict seminar.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=M0JAKAUu6IE

giphy.gif


Sounds perfect for me.

Edit: OK this should be required viewing for anyone selling an HDR TV and everyone in this thread too.
 
I'm eagerly awaiting the conclusion to the auto/auto full/standard debate.

Lol.

Everytime I enter this thread, theres a either a new debate, an on going debate or one coming to an end.
Usually around the following:

Auto / Limited Levels
RGB or YUV
Dynamic Contrast on or Off

Usually, the debates are settled, most people come to the same agreement and then within an hour, a new challenger enters the thread and questions everything agreed upon and the entire debate is thrown into chaos, with opinions coming from every which way.

I fucking love it, lol
 
Went to the AVS thread and saw this:
For HDR content, Dynamic Contrast will make the image brighter. For HDR, recommend values are Low or Medium; Off will likely make the image too dark, while High may make the image too bright.

Seems like the DC fight continues...
 
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