Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen

I don't give a shit about 3D or tuners, so unless they fuck it up royally somehow the B7 is going to be my next TV

EDIT: But man, EU prices really are depressing. 3270€ for the 65" B6 here.

German prices are even worse.
Bought the B6 this week for 3579. Lowest it has ever been here

But worth it!
 
Did it. Ordered the LG OLED55B6P yesterday. First new TV since my 50 inch Panasonic Viera TH-50PZ80u. That's a 2005 Plasma. I just couldn't bring myself to replace it even as the brightness failed. Even the best LCD TVs didn't seem to cut it.

Delivery date is almost 3 week though. Going to be a hard wait. I hope that LG comes through with that HDR game mode lag patch. Doesn't look like it would bother me too much, but less lag isn't a bad thing.
 
At Best Buy now, was going to get the 60' KS8000, but the store rep insists the 65' KS9000 is the better value and picture.

Opinions? I see KS8000 mentioned constantly, but wondering if 9000 is worth the extra cash.
 
Exactly, yesterday I left the TV for like 10 minutes on a result screen of Sonic Generations (Which looks incredible on this thing in 4K) and I noticed some pattern on the display that stayed, but left like 20 seconds after starting to play again.

I think Digital Foundry left it on a still screen for 24 hours and the stuff left after a minute, don't worry about burn-in! :) I friend told me that, but I can't find the source so, forget that. :lol

Read the CNET article about it regarding Plasma.

Samsung's 3D model from 2013 (a fabulous set btw) was accidentally left on overnight and didn't exhibit any burn in.

https://www.cnet.com/news/samsung-plasma-wins-cnets-accidental-burn-in-test/
 
At Best Buy now, was going to get the 60' KS8000, but the store rep insists the 65' KS9000 is the better value and picture.

Opinions? I see KS8000 mentioned constantly, but wondering if 9000 is worth the extra cash.

not sure you'll see a difference for what you're going for
 
At Best Buy now, was going to get the 60' KS8000, but the store rep insists the 65' KS9000 is the better value and picture.

Opinions? I see KS8000 mentioned constantly, but wondering if 9000 is worth the extra cash.

No, for all practical purposes they are identical aside from the design/housing. Not worth the extra cost.
 
I bought the 55" LG B6...

Gonna pick it up after work with my friend. She gotnme tocave. I am so hype right now!
 
So... LG OLED and HDR.
Is there a definite answer on wether dynamic contrast must be on to display hdr mode correctly ? I see a big gap when switching the setting but not sure if that's correct or overblown.
 
Oh god, you guys are making it really hard to hold on until the B7 is out. My only fear is that the input lag will be to high for me, does anyone here use it with their PC and has some feedback on how it feels/looks?

I use the E6 as my PC display, no issues with input lag on SDR content.

It's HDR games which have a little too high input lag for my liking but LG are apparently working on a firmware update for that. So we'll see how that goes.

It's almost December though, I think you should wait to see the new OLEDs at CES next month.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idn_TX2-1Pg

This video was kind of interesting, was about input lag on the OLED's. I think most people worried about it are the ones that don't actually own the TV. I think theres a case to be made for the lag in HDR mode though.

But other than that, if 34 is too high for you on the OLED's then the KS8000 with its 20 is going to be too high for you as well.

I think the guy makes a fair point. If you care that much, you should probably be gaming on a monitor instead. He gives examples of games he manages to play after it.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idn_TX2-1Pg

This video was kind of interesting, was about input lag on the OLED's. I think most people worried about it are the ones that don't actually own the TV. I think theres a case to be made for the lag in HDR mode though.

But other than that, if 34 is too high for you on the OLED's then the KS8000 with its 20 is going to be too high for you as well.

I think the guy makes a fair point. If you care that much, you should probably be gaming on a monitor instead. He gives examples of games he manages to play after it.

I get over pretty looks in competitive gaming.

When I used my Sony W900a, I wouldn't play in Game mode for single player games... I'd turn on a few bells and whistles. Heck in DriveClub I wouldn't play in game mode, I still did great.

but for my competitive gaming (FPS, Madden, Street Fighter) I'd play in Game Mode...because after a few games, you want to just win.

so for my C6, same thing. For story based games, it's going to be in HDR (if the game supports it).... for Madden, which I've been playing on my C6 in 4K (upscaled) 60fps, its been great....for kicking field goals that require timing and response. It's been great. No issues.

Don't get me wrong, I still hope LG adds HDR in Game Mode...and reduces it in other modes if possible. But I use this TV for many things. I'm looking forward to finally starting my backlog with games that don't have HDR or a patch... like The Order 1886. I'm sure it's going to look AMAZING on my OLED. :D
 
So all these goofy little features and doodads and bullshit modes and whatnot; you're never actually supposed to use any of them unless you're a rube that doesn't care about performance or gaming or anything?

Are there any that ARE beneficial and not just ornamental bullshit? I'm sure it's discussed many places in this thread. It's a confusing arena to wander into. There a ton of manufacturers and models and years and the terminology is pretty confusing for neophytes so I'm really sorry for my ignorance.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idn_TX2-1Pg

This video was kind of interesting, was about input lag on the OLED's. I think most people worried about it are the ones that don't actually own the TV. I think theres a case to be made for the lag in HDR mode though.

But other than that, if 34 is too high for you on the OLED's then the KS8000 with its 20 is going to be too high for you as well.

I think the guy makes a fair point. If you care that much, you should probably be gaming on a monitor instead. He gives examples of games he manages to play after it.

the 4K + HDR input lag is too high for a lot of people. all other modes are fine, for me at least

i just sold an older LED tv i had in the basement, if the new firmware they are making brings it inline with the other modes (30 - 40 ms), i'll be in for a 65" b6

if not, i'll wait it out and see if the b7 is better. i already have a ks8000 in the living room that i'm super happy with
 
What AV receiver you guys running?

I've been using a Denon X1100w for the last 2 years, but it can't pass through HDR.

Went into the store looking at the X1300w or maybe the X2300w. Salesman told me the x1300w would be too underpowered for my Klipsch Reference speakers with SVS PB2000 sub and the X2300w was sold out.

In the end, I bought a Yamaha RX-A860 for $900, which was twice what I was planning to spend. Haven't unboxed it yet. Did I make a mistake or do good?
 
What software and hardware can I use to calibrate a tv? What is recommended?

Sure, I use the AVS709 disc, and then HCFR to measure. If you have the i1DisplayPro, HCFR should pick it up easily, no adjustments necessary.

Burn the disc AVCHD to a DVD. Then pop that in the Pro and it will output in Rec709 at 1080p res, just like a Blu-ray.

Start with measure, grey scale and colors, save the file, and then begin on your adjustments.

AVS 709
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

HCFR
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/1393853-hcfr-open-source-projector-display-calibration-software.html

Both are free, but consider donating if you like them, people put some real effort into it.

What AV receiver you guys running?

I've been using a Denon X1100w for the last 2 years, but it can't pass through HDR.

Went into the store looking at the X1300w or maybe the X2300w. Salesman told me the x1300w would be too underpowered for my Klipsch Reference speakers with SVS PB2000 sub and the X2300w was sold out.

In the end, I bought a Yamaha RX-A860 for $900, which was twice what I was planning to spend. Haven't unboxed it yet. Did I make a mistake or do good?


I purchased a X1300W, an while it is not as loud as my older 1912, it does the job, and the sound quality is quite improved. You may want to demo it and find out for yourself.
 
Sure, I use the AVS709 disc, and then HCFR to measure. If you have the i1DisplayPro, HCFR should pick it up easily, no adjustments necessary.

Burn the disc AVCHD to a DVD. Then pop that in the Pro and it will output in Rec709 at 1080p res, just like a Blu-ray.

Start with measure, grey scale and colors, save the file, and then begin on your adjustments.

AVS 709
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

HCFR
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/1393853-hcfr-open-source-projector-display-calibration-software.html

Both are free, but consider donating if you like them, people put some real effort into it.




I purchased a X1300W, an while it is not as loud as my older 1912, it does the job, and the sound quality is quite improved. You may want to demo it and find out for yourself.
Thank you so much!

I just looked for that i1DisplayPro here and it is insanely pricey. :(
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idn_TX2-1Pg

This video was kind of interesting, was about input lag on the OLED's. I think most people worried about it are the ones that don't actually own the TV. I think theres a case to be made for the lag in HDR mode though.

But other than that, if 34 is too high for you on the OLED's then the KS8000 with its 20 is going to be too high for you as well.

I think the guy makes a fair point. If you care that much, you should probably be gaming on a monitor instead. He gives examples of games he manages to play after it.
It's variable input lag that cycles between 34-58ms actually.
 
I purchased a X1300W, an while it is not as loud as my older 1912, it does the job, and the sound quality is quite improved. You may want to demo it and find out for yourself.

Thanks. May I ask what speaker setup you are running?

I've got 2 Klipsch RF-82 floorstanding speakers, RC-62 center, and 2 RS-52 surround paired with an SVS PB2000 subwoofer.

Would that setup would I be able to tell the difference between the x1300w and Yamaha 860, which competes with the x3300w?

It's variable input lag that cycles between 34-58ms actually.

I believe the cycling is only in HDR mode. It's supposed to be a consistent 34ms in Game mode SDR which is what most people will be using.
 
Hrrm.. What about the ColorMunki?

Same. I live in an underdeveloped country, so these things are costly here. I got the TV at least, I think I'll just stick to the calibration settings people post online, like the ones from Rtings.

But thanks for your help anyway.
 
Thanks. May I ask what speaker setup you are running?

I've got 2 Klipsch RF-82 floorstanding speakers, RC-62 center, and 2 RS-52 surround paired with an SVS PB2000 subwoofer.

Would that setup would I be able to tell the difference between the x1300w and Yamaha 860, which competes with the x3300w?



I believe the cycling is only in HDR mode. It's supposed to be a consistent 34ms in Game mode SDR which is what most people will be using.

Polk 2 floor standing and center, overhead 4 yamaha in-ceiling. Running an Atmos type setup. Really do not recall speaker models, i have had them for 10 years or more.. also a 12 inch powered sub from mono price I believe..
 
I believe the cycling is only in HDR mode. It's supposed to be a consistent 34ms in Game mode SDR which is what most people will be using.
Ah, you're right.

Too bad Color Gamut is locked to Wide on the C6P's Game mode or I wouldn't mind using it. I doubt LG will address that though :(
 
Ended up cancelling my ks8500 order. Won't have a 4k player til Scorpio anyway so I decided to wait. Maybe by then OLEDs will come down further in price and input lag. Badly wanted to upgrade my 7 year old set but it seemed prudent to wait.
 
Ended up cancelling my ks8500 order. Won't have a 4k player til Scorpio anyway so I decided to wait. Maybe by then OLEDs will come down further in price and input lag. Badly wanted to upgrade my 7 year old set but it seemed prudent to wait.

In the grand scheme of things, holiday 2017 will offer you waaaaaaay more 4K content, specially if you're waiting on Scorpio anyway.
 
In the grand scheme of things, holiday 2017 will offer you waaaaaaay more 4K content, specially if you're waiting on Scorpio anyway.

Definitely. There are only like five 4k movies out that I want right now. I could have bought an Xbone S for 4k playback in the interim but that seemed like throwing money away.
 
Definitely. There are only like five 4k movies out that I want right now. I could have bought an Xbone S for 4k playback in the interim but that seemed like throwing money away.

Yeah, don't beat yourself up. As much as "4K" is a major buzz word right now, content isn't entirely there yet (again, unless you're gaming in 4K) to mandate it.
 
Problem is that I'm not that interested in the Xbox/Scorpio as long as I have a powerful PC, so I hope that they'll at least introduce UHD blu-ray PC drives in the near future.
 
Yes it does, but when getting back to the ps4 menu for example everything is dim until I activate the dynamic contrast option on my EG920. So I tried in-game and there is a massive difference.


You need to calibrate your non-hdr settings. The TV stores a separate set of settings for both HDR and non-hdr modes. I personally use a calibration disc some people just like to tune it until they get an image that is appealing to them.
 
Same. I live in an underdeveloped country, so these things are costly here. I got the TV at least, I think I'll just stick to the calibration settings people post online, like the ones from Rtings.

But thanks for your help anyway.

You are better off just using the default settings. Using other people's gamma and colour settings they have posted online, is a bad idea. They won't be accurate for your panel and viewing circumstances, and will do more harm than good.
 
Got home. Got the LG 55" B6 hooked up. Figured some stuff out. A bit of tuning.

Sweet. Baby. Jesus.

I am in love. Only draw back is that i will have to grab an optical cable to use my sound bar. No big.

This thing is glorious. I want to watch everything on it.
 
Got home. Got the LG 55" B6 hooked up. Figured some stuff out. A bit of tuning.

Sweet. Baby. Jesus.

I am in love. Only draw back is that i will have to grab an optical cable to use my sound bar. No big.

This thing is glorious. I want to watch everything on it.

Does your soundbar not support ARC?
 
What AV receiver you guys running?

I've been using a Denon X1100w for the last 2 years, but it can't pass through HDR.

Went into the store looking at the X1300w or maybe the X2300w. Salesman told me the x1300w would be too underpowered for my Klipsch Reference speakers with SVS PB2000 sub and the X2300w was sold out.

In the end, I bought a Yamaha RX-A860 for $900, which was twice what I was planning to spend. Haven't unboxed it yet. Did I make a mistake or do good?

The more channels you run the more the output per channel will drop anyways. Yamaha tend to drop off a little more once you get into the 5 and 7 channel range. The difference in power output between the 2 denons is not a lot what you are really getting is more features and inputs.

That denon is probably about 105w And if you are driving all 7 channels you are really only getting about 60 to 70 watts per channel with the X2300 and will have a decrease of about 5 watts with the X1300W

Really comes down to what kind of flexibility you want in the future. I would probably go with the Denon X2300 out of the 3.

I do think yamaha is a better build quality though and if you like DSP modes they have tons.
 
Problem is that I'm not that interested in the Xbox/Scorpio as long as I have a powerful PC, so I hope that they'll at least introduce UHD blu-ray PC drives in the near future.

Next Christmas season you could probably get a One S for $99 (used?) or a dedicated player for less, if PC drives aren't out yet.
 
Does your soundbar not support ARC?

I dont think so? Its an older one. Can test more after work.

Edit. Expanding on this, i dont know if my soundbar supports hdmi arc. When i try to run hdmi through the soundbar, the xb1 for example will come back with the notice that it wont run 4k. Its a Samsung HWE450 bar.
 
As gorgeous as the current OLEDs are, I think I'm going to try to rock my Panasonic Plasma for one more year. I'll let the content grow and snag a Scorpio plus UHD blus next black Friday season.
 
As gorgeous as the current OLEDs are, I think I'm going to try to rock my Panasonic Plasma for one more year. I'll let the content grow and snag a Scorpio plus UHD blus next black Friday season.
That was my initial plan as well, but I managed to grab an E6 for a great price on BF. Will probably sell it in a couple of years and buy a Panasonic OLED, but will luckily lose very, very little money on the E6.
 
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