"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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theSlacker said:
Too bad more game developers don't feel the same way. The real blame has to be put on the gamers and consumers though who for the most part are fine with sub 30 fps dips in games in the name of EPIC GRAPHICS BRO. Not going to go looking for it, but I remember a study done by some dev a few years back that had people picking "I like it when there is slowdown because it is like a reward for doing something crazy". They determined that a higher stable frame rate didn't effect the sales or review score of a game, so it wasn't something that they were going to keep striving for. Think it was Insomniac.
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It's more that most media is in print format, and you can't show off frame rate in screenshots
 
brentech said:
I'm assuming your replacing the bolded product with it? If so than yes, if your planning to overclock or even live in warm climate. Cool cpu is a longer lasting cpu, or capable of over clocking higher.

Does it see it n the Bios? Is this all fresh build, not adding it on after the fact?
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knitoe said:
Does it show up in the Bios? If yes, most likely, you need to go into Disk Management and activate/format the SSD before it will show up /be usable in Windows.
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Infinite Justice said:
Does the bios see it but its not found in windows?

if so go to Disk Management and activate it (had to do that with my 1TB HDD)
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I found the problem. I didn't have the power supply connected to it. :derp

I installed my two of my hard drives, and they are both running different copies of Windows and running on my rig just fine. I just gotta get my copy of Windows 8 on the SSD and I'm mostly set.
 
Whatever, bring on more graphics. My gaming experience isn't determined by a pre set hardware configuration. The glory of an open platform.


Also, in response to the advice given to Pandemic, reposting here to let others know.

H100s are crazy overkill for Ivy. Apologies if you knew this, but I'll just explain the whole situation in case.

Ivy Bridge CPUs were manufactured with a major flaw when it comes to overclocking. Instead of the chip being soldered to the heat spreader (that's the metal top), they use a thick glob of really crappy quality TIM (thermal grease - thermal interface material). As a result, all Ivy Bridge processors have what people call a 'heat wall'.

This heat wall will show its face at fairly low voltage - somewhere between 1.2V and 1.35V, or around 4.4-4.6GHz. Since these are fairly low frequencies and volts, it really doesn't take much cooling to get there. With this in mind, something like the Hyper 212+ is essentially just as effective as even a $300 custom water loop. You might have higher temps before the heatwall, but it doesn't really matter as lower temps doesn't really equate to anything if you can't clock higher.

If you specifically really like the look of the closed loop coolers, then just get the cheapest one possible. I'm partial to the H60 as I think it looks gorgeous.
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cpp_is_king said:
Disclaimer: This is why I hate building my own computer. Sigh...

Anyway, I did a very mild overclock of my Core i7-3930k to 4.1GHz. I did it through the ASUS AI Suite Auto Tuning option and just choosing the "Fast" option, not the extreme. Today I tried to resume my computer from sleep and after a few minutes of black screen I had to do a hard power off. When I restarted my computer and got an "Overclock Failed" failure at POST. After a few reboots and restarts it finally worked and is still overclocked, I didn't have to reset BIOS or anything. I'm using this liquid cooling system.

I feel like this is a pretty mild overclock given that I'm using liquid cooling, so I don't think I should be having this problem. And it's not like the CPU or anything else was under load at the time anyway, as the problem happened on a cold boot after resuming from a sleep.

Any ideas?
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Don't use the auto tuning for overclock. There are some settings that an overclock ruins in regards to sleep mode.
I don't know how the auto tuning works, but are you wanting a fixed overclock or offset (can idle at lower frequency (less power, more importantly, less heat)).

Some people will die by the fixed overclock. But I use offset and I think? most do here as well.

edit: and what motherboard and cpu do you have again? can at least look for a guide specific to it. your bios is going to label things differently than my own
 
knitoe said:
Not sure if it's the same problem, but on socket 1155, there is a problem with having Internal PLL enable and crashing coming out of resume / hibernate. Try disabling it in your socket 2011 MB in the Bios. Also, it's best to manually overclock. Use the auto OC future to get an estimate what settings you need for X speeds, and then, set it manually yourself.
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Im looking at power settings in my bios and have no idea what any of it means. Almost everything is set to Auto though, and i dont see anything that says PLL
 
brentech said:
Don't use the auto tuning for overclock. There are some settings that an overclock ruins in regards to sleep mode.
I don't know how the auto tuning works, but are you wanting a fixed overclock or offset (can idle at lower frequency (less power, more importantly, less heat)).

Some people will die by the fixed overclock. But I use offset and I think? most do here as well.

edit: and what motherboard and cpu do you have again? can at least look for a guide specific to it. your bios is going to label things differently than my own
Click to expand...

ASUS P9X79 Pro
Core i7-3930k

Btw, when i do auto tuning, all it does is test various settings and then set them manually in the bios. its not like theres an option on the bios that just says "auto"
 
mkenyon said:
---------------------------------------------------------

My oh my.....

900x900px-LL-ce097312_111c.jpeg


Looks good.
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This looks really sleek and nice.

Man I was all in the mood to get a new case (900d) until I went back to the FT02, and the thought has completely went out of my mind. Such a solid case for both air and water. And it was delegated to closet duty for close to a year ;_;
 
mkenyon said:
Whatever, bring on more graphics. My gaming experience isn't determined by a pre set hardware configuration. The glory of an open platform.


Also, in response to the advice given to Pandemic, reposting here to let others know.

H100s are crazy overkill for Ivy. Apologies if you knew this, but I'll just explain the whole situation in case.

Ivy Bridge CPUs were manufactured with a major flaw when it comes to overclocking. Instead of the chip being soldered to the heat spreader (that's the metal top), they use a thick glob of really crappy quality TIM (thermal grease - thermal interface material). As a result, all Ivy Bridge processors have what people call a 'heat wall'.

This heat wall will show its face at fairly low voltage - somewhere between 1.2V and 1.35V, or around 4.4-4.6GHz. Since these are fairly low frequencies and volts, it really doesn't take much cooling to get there. With this in mind, something like the Hyper 212+ is essentially just as effective as even a $300 custom water loop. You might have higher temps before the heatwall, but it doesn't really matter as lower temps doesn't really equate to anything if you can't clock higher.

If you specifically really like the look of the closed loop coolers, then just get the cheapest one possible. I'm partial to the H60 as I think it looks gorgeous.
Click to expand...

And if you are spending $100+ on a CPU cooler then you might be the kinda of person who should delid your ivy bridge. It's really quite simple and in my case temps dropped 30C going from 4.6 -> 5.0Ghz
 
cpp_is_king said:
Tried that and now i cant even turn my computer on. No bios no nothing. black screenAm i screwed? All i did was start with defaults, set strap to 100, bclk to 100, and multiplier to 42
Click to expand...

Reset the CMOS, do you have the RoG board? It's a button on the back

EDIT: saw you have a regular asus board, the manual will tell you how to reset.
 
scogoth said:
Reset the CMOS, do you have the RoG board? It's a button on the back

EDIT: saw you have a regular asus board, the manual will tell you how to reset.
Click to expand...

Thanks, it works. Guess I just have to settle with leaving everything at defaults. The guide was like "if you're a novice just set the strap and the BCLK and leave everything else alone and you should be good to go". Even that doesn't work right for me, so whatever.
 
Quick question:

Because I use a discrete GPU, as 99% of you guys do, is the iGPU in my 3570K completely wasted?

I understand that it's drivers aren't even installed, but wanted to know if there were any uses for it at all. I know LucidLogix Virtu allows you to render games using the discrete and integrated GPUs at the same time to reduce microstutter and framerate, but it's hit and miss according to reviews I read. It's kinda sad that most of us will never use the iGPU in our procs.
 
cpp_is_king said:
Thanks, it works. Guess I just have to settle with leaving everything at defaults. The guide was like "if you're a novice just set the strap and the BCLK and leave everything else alone and you should be good to go". Even that doesn't work right for me, so whatever.
Click to expand...

I guess I just don't know when to quit. Anyway, I played around with it some more, it seems what's making it be completely dead on power-on is related to memory frequency. I have 2400MHz memory but when I bump it higher than 1866 it won't start.

Do I need to adjust some voltages or something? CPU voltage or memory voltage?

I read the guide that mkenyon posted, but since I have a specific problem (too high memory frequency causes computer not to boot), I'd like to understand specifically what affects this, as solving problems one by one is better than just changing every number all at once. I did try setting all the numbers as the guide suggested, but it didn't seem to help. My Motherboard apparently has a set of Debug LEDs on it which might help diagnose the problem, but my manual doesn't list what the codes mean and I can't find it online.


On another subject, people earlier suggested to disable sleep mode. I don't even seen an option for this in my BIOS. The APM (Advanced Power Management) menu only has options for when to WAKE the system. I can do it in Windows by having Windows set to not put my computer to sleep after being idle, but this seems like a subpar solution, because some else using my computer could accidentally hit Sleep from within Windows start menu. Is there a bios setting to disable sleep mode?

I found something onlien that suggested you don't need to actually disable sleep, but instead disable "PLL Overvoltage". My BIOS doesn't ahve that option, but it does have the option to change PLL voltage directly. It defaults to Auto (no clue what that means), would entering a value manually here be the same as disabling "PLL Overvoltage"?
 
So over the last couple of days I've noticed that my CPU fan is starting to rattle, I'm not really sure why? I have the cooler master 212, anyone with similar problems?
Edit: yeah pretty sure it's on the way out, I've made sure there are no cables in the way, and the fan can be moved quite a bit which is causing the rattle. Can anyone recommend a replacement fan for my cooler, I'm looking for something that's quite.
 
Hey guys, going to upgrade my GPU from GTX580 to a GTX 670 but which is better, 2GB or 4GB? Also I heard that today Nvidia is starting a campaign that if you buy a GTX GPU from 660 and higher you get Metro Last Lights for free. is that true?
 
Posted this in the tech support thread:

So a few of my games are having problems on my PC.

Everytime I run them I go straight to the desktop and the "Change Screen Resolution" display pops up as if I just connected a monitor or something.

Happened in Dark Souls, Crysis 2, and DmC4. But Binary Domain worked and whats strange DmC4 worked in non-Direct x 10 mode.

My GPU/CPU temps seem fine. Is my PSU dying? :(

Any help is greatly appreciated!
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Just a heads up, got an email from newegg with a promo code for the seasonic x850 psu (overkill maybe for some?). Use EMCXSWP38 to bring the price down to $129.99. They even have a $20 rebate I believe.

I wonder if these codes work though for people who aren't part of their newsletter (I'm guessing yes)
 
georaldc said:
Just a heads up, got an email from newegg with a promo code for the seasonic x850 psu (overkill maybe for some?). Use EMCXSWP38 to bring the price down to $129.99. They even have a $20 rebate I believe.

I wonder if these codes work though for people who aren't part of their newsletter (I'm guessing yes)
Click to expand...

yeah, pretty sure that unless they are account specific, they can be used by anyone
 
Gigabyte GTX 660 Ti OC 3 GB, Windforce 3 and factory overclocked - 285 €
Gigabyte GTX 670 OC 4 GB, Windforce 3 and factory overclocked - 389 €

which one to recommend to a friend ? should he go for the 660 Ti and spend the extra cash on a better CPU / RAM ? I'm more of a 7950 Boost fan but my friend loves the Batman games and Borderlands 2 (PhysX).
 
Hmm...currently trying to overclock my i5 3570k, and with a 0.004 turbo voltage I'm able to get to 4.2 with temps of around 70 (using this guide). Would it be wise to try to get to 4.5? I'm using an 212 evo cooler, board is ASRock Z77 Pro4.

I may also try to overclock my GPU (Club 7870 XT), but this may be pushing it a bit with just 3 case fans.
 
cpp_is_king said:
I guess I just don't know when to quit. Anyway, I played around with it some more, it seems what's making it be completely dead on power-on is related to memory frequency. I have 2400MHz memory but when I bump it higher than 1866 it won't start.

Do I need to adjust some voltages or something? CPU voltage or memory voltage?

I read the guide that mkenyon posted, but since I have a specific problem (too high memory frequency causes computer not to boot), I'd like to understand specifically what affects this, as solving problems one by one is better than just changing every number all at once. I did try setting all the numbers as the guide suggested, but it didn't seem to help. My Motherboard apparently has a set of Debug LEDs on it which might help diagnose the problem, but my manual doesn't list what the codes mean and I can't find it online.


On another subject, people earlier suggested to disable sleep mode. I don't even seen an option for this in my BIOS. The APM (Advanced Power Management) menu only has options for when to WAKE the system. I can do it in Windows by having Windows set to not put my computer to sleep after being idle, but this seems like a subpar solution, because some else using my computer could accidentally hit Sleep from within Windows start menu. Is there a bios setting to disable sleep mode?

I found something onlien that suggested you don't need to actually disable sleep, but instead disable "PLL Overvoltage". My BIOS doesn't ahve that option, but it does have the option to change PLL voltage directly. It defaults to Auto (no clue what that means), would entering a value manually here be the same as disabling "PLL Overvoltage"?
Click to expand...

RAM questions - RAM is a complicated beast, you may have to change timings, voltage, frequency, memory controller voltage or live with 1866. Just because its rated for 2400 doesn't actually mean it will achieve that in every setup. It's not really an issue because unless you are trying to achieve a world record superpi score than the difference between 1866 and 2400 is pretty much nothing.

Debug LEDs- your 100% sure they aren't listed in the manual?

Sleep stuff - You have to disable the c states in the advanced power menu. Disable C3 and C6 at least and C1E if you don't care at all about power saving. You can also disable speedstep for more stability at the cost of power saving

Leave PLL at auto unless you are doing some very high BLCK frequencies.

Unfortunately X79 overclocking is just a lot more complicated than Z77. Some patience and lots of reading will help you learn more about computers and overclocking then you thought possible. I went through the same thing with X58.
 
Guys I have a question about headsets. Will you get good sound by connecting a headset to the headset port on your PC or do you need a separate amplifier?
 
JB1981 said:
Guys I have a question about headsets. Will you get good sound by connecting a headset to the headset port on your PC or do you need a separate amplifier?
Click to expand...

A gaming headset? Gaming headsets don't generally produce the best sound quality either way; they will sound fine in the 3.5mm headphone jack, but compared to "proper" audio headphones they won't be as clear etc etc. Audio is a dangerous path to walk down, once you start you may end up constantly upgrading everything. If you're not too bothered about "audiophile" things, a gaming headset in a 3.5mm jack will sound perfectly fine. I haven't used onboard audio in a while, but even when I had it could go loud enough. You wouldn't need an amp.
 
cpp_is_king said:
I guess I just don't know when to quit. Anyway, I played around with it some more, it seems what's making it be completely dead on power-on is related to memory frequency. I have 2400MHz memory but when I bump it higher than 1866 it won't start.

Do I need to adjust some voltages or something? CPU voltage or memory voltage?

I read the guide that mkenyon posted, but since I have a specific problem (too high memory frequency causes computer not to boot), I'd like to understand specifically what affects this, as solving problems one by one is better than just changing every number all at once. I did try setting all the numbers as the guide suggested, but it didn't seem to help. My Motherboard apparently has a set of Debug LEDs on it which might help diagnose the problem, but my manual doesn't list what the codes mean and I can't find it online.


On another subject, people earlier suggested to disable sleep mode. I don't even seen an option for this in my BIOS. The APM (Advanced Power Management) menu only has options for when to WAKE the system. I can do it in Windows by having Windows set to not put my computer to sleep after being idle, but this seems like a subpar solution, because some else using my computer could accidentally hit Sleep from within Windows start menu. Is there a bios setting to disable sleep mode?

I found something onlien that suggested you don't need to actually disable sleep, but instead disable "PLL Overvoltage". My BIOS doesn't ahve that option, but it does have the option to change PLL voltage directly. It defaults to Auto (no clue what that means), would entering a value manually here be the same as disabling "PLL Overvoltage"?
Click to expand...

Yea, sorry, I got caught up in researching something on my car and then went to bed. I 'think' I found another guide you to at least view. It's best to read it over first, to get at least a basic idea of what they are doing, then try to change things.

Haz has mentioned all the basic solutions to the problems you're having. Such as sleep being related to C states. Usually under a section in the bios related to CPU advanced power settings. Most boards show C1E, C3, C6, and 'Package C State Support'. All with enable/disable as options.
As for your RAM, the package or the RAM sticks themselves should have the voltage they use and the some numbers generally listed like X/X/X/X (commonly 9/9/9/24). Or you can look up the specs online and see them listed the same way. On the motherboard this usually shows up in DRAM Configuration. You definitely want the voltage to be correct, instead of just using auto, since this is overclocked RAM. Voltage and the 4 other settings will probably determine whether or not you reach the 2400mhz.

Thread below is for your board, but I don't have an ASUS account to download the images or PDF where someone made a guide for it:
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?9247-BIOS-Screensots-of-Stable-4.6-Overclock-P9X79-Pro

The guide for ASRock boards, which I have, does a decent job of breaking down what some of the settings mean, which may be of help. I'd give it a read through.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/...-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition

For starters, I would default all your changes in BIOS, make sure it runs, then make changes to your RAM voltage and DRAM settings to the specifications that your RAM states. If you can't get 2400 with those all correct, just go down to the 1866, but try to get all the settings spot on first.
 
abunai said:
A gaming headset? Gaming headsets don't generally produce the best sound quality either way; they will sound fine in the 3.5mm headphone jack, but compared to "proper" audio headphones they won't be as clear etc etc. Audio is a dangerous path to walk down, once you start you may end up constantly upgrading everything. If you're not too bothered about "audiophile" things, a gaming headset in a 3.5mm jack will sound perfectly fine. I haven't used onboard audio in a while, but even when I had it could go loud enough. You wouldn't need an amp.
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Yes I'm referring to a pair of Senheisser's as linked in the OP. Do you need a separate amp to drive headsets like that or are you good just connecting them to the headphone jack on your PC? I am awaiting the arrival of an Alienware X51 which supports 7.1 audio and was curious.
 
Vinegar Joe said:
Hmm...currently trying to overclock my i5 3570k, and with a 0.004 turbo voltage I'm able to get to 4.2 with temps of around 70 (using this guide). Would it be wise to try to get to 4.5? I'm using an 212 evo cooler, board is ASRock Z77 Pro4.

I may also try to overclock my GPU (Club 7870 XT), but this may be pushing it a bit with just 3 case fans.
Click to expand...

I used the same guide and got similar results (lower temps though, around 60ish). I just followed the guide, kept going until I was hitting 80c with prime and reached 4.6ghz. I guess if you don't need it, you should be fine with 4.2. I generally use pcsx2 and dolphin so I try to get the mosy hz possible
 
JB1981 said:
Yes I'm referring to a pair of Senheisser's as linked in the OP. Do you need a separate amp to drive headsets like that or are you good just connecting them to the headphone jack on your PC? I am awaiting the arrival of an Alienware X51 which supports 7.1 audio and was curious.
Click to expand...

Nah, no amp required :)
 
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