Scroll up/back, like, half a page. All the reasons why you want to keep playing when full.
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Clash Royale |OT| Should I keep playing when Im full on chests?
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Scroll up/back, like, half a page. All the reasons why you want to keep playing when full.
No need for a wizard if you have a princess, which is 2 elixir cheaper and has infinitely more range. I don't have a princess ;(
I'm in Arena 7 and I run into Wizards fairly often. I personally don't use it because I have Ice Wizard which is better utility overall, but of course is not very common for most players to have.
Looking at my game history, almost everyone I've gone against has either Musketeer or Wizard in their deck. Both are definitely good cards to use. The Musketeer has a little more health, which may help the popularity that it can take an extra shot or so.
D
Deleted member 59090
Unconfirmed Member
You just give someone 1 of your cards and get gold and xp in return.
Baroquemantic
Member
Is the princess one of the legendary cards?
Go to the Clan tab. On there you will see the Request Card option in the lower left. If you have one available it will be a Yellow button you can take action on. If not, you will see a timer (like in my screenshot). You can request cards every 8 hours. You can get up to 10 common cards or 1 rare card per request. You can't request/donate Epic/Legendary cards.
If someone has a request out, you will see it there. You can simply hit the donate button. If they are requesting a common card you can do up to 2, rare is just 1. Note: You are limited to 60 donations per day (commons are worth 1 per card, rare is worth 10 per card, so you could do 60 commons or 6 rares, or any combo of them).
It's a benefit to request when available and to donate. It helps with ranking up, and you get a little bit of gold with donations as well.
I think that covers the basics of it, I'm sure someone will chime in if I missed anything.
Looking for suggestions for some kind of deck to surpass Arena 3 and get to Arena 4? Just flip flopping from 800-900 after basically steamrolling to this point.
I have Prince, Wizard, and Baby Dragon. Was using Tombstone along with those cards and Giant to split push and it worked to perfection for a bit...but now, ehhhh.
The players I'm encountering are either using a similar split push strategy (with higher level cards) or are using this kind of...swarm strategy, like basically a goblin hut and a barbarian hut, or a goblin hut and a tombstone, etc. Just completely overwhelming me on both sides since the Dragon can only clear one side.
I have Prince, Wizard, and Baby Dragon. Was using Tombstone along with those cards and Giant to split push and it worked to perfection for a bit...but now, ehhhh.
The players I'm encountering are either using a similar split push strategy (with higher level cards) or are using this kind of...swarm strategy, like basically a goblin hut and a barbarian hut, or a goblin hut and a tombstone, etc. Just completely overwhelming me on both sides since the Dragon can only clear one side.
Yes, along with Ice Wizard. Princess can drop in Arena 7 and Ice Wizard can drop in Arena 5. They are pretty rare though to get.
Go to the Clan tab. On there you will see the Request Card option in the lower left. If you have one available it will be a Yellow button you can take action on. If not, you will see a timer (like in my screenshot). You can request cards every 8 hours. You can get up to 10 common cards or 1 rare card per request. You can't request/donate Epic/Legendary cards.
If someone has a request out, you will see it there. You can simply hit the donate button. If they are requesting a common card you can do up to 2, rare is just 1. Note: You are limited to 60 donations per day (commons are worth 1 per card, rare is worth 10 per card, so you could do 60 commons or 6 rares, or any combo of them).
It's a benefit to request when available and to donate. It helps with ranking up, and you get a little bit of gold with donations as well.
I think that covers the basics of it, I'm sure someone will chime in if I missed anything.
So it's not just a temporary thing like Clash of Clans?
If I give somebody a card, it's theirs forever?
Yeah, they own it forever. Keep in mind you are only giving them 1 or 2 cards out of your extras - you'll still have the card itself, but you are giving away your extras. You'll never actually lose the card itself.
My wife has been pretty addicted to this since it came out. She started playing my game also when I'm too lazy to get get the 10 crowns or to get more chests. Works for me!
I'm a pretty terrible strategist though. I just rely on the rocket like a crutch, get their towers down to around 400 HP, spam my cards until I see the rocket, and let it fly.
I'm a pretty terrible strategist though. I just rely on the rocket like a crutch, get their towers down to around 400 HP, spam my cards until I see the rocket, and let it fly.
BreezyLimbo
Banned
Yup. The upside is once you unlock a card yourself, you always have that card, even if you give your last copy away
Right, thanks for the answers.
Wavering back and forth right now on whether I want to spend the 400 gold upgrading some of the cards I have now, or save up the gold for potential cards I might unlock in the future.
BreezyLimbo
Banned
ALRIGHT
OPENING OF THE GAME AND Y OU!!
So when you start a match, the most important thing is to look at your options, and wait. There are various openings depending on what type of deck you're running, but we'll get into that later. The first thing you want to do is wait. Save up your Elixir. Only react to an opponents move. If you're getting full to Elixir, try dropping a slow unit behind your main castle to buffer the time of your opponent dropping a card. This is also advantageous to you, I'll go into it. Now, your opponent my try to all in a lane or wait to drop units like you are. That's no problem, because if you drop a slow unit, you're maximizing on your elixir and your opponent isn't. If you react, you're maximizing on your elixir and your opponent is it. The only way to put yourself in a disadvantage is if you drop a unit to try and attack one of their towers. This tips the scale into their favor.
THE SCALE, TOWERS, AND YO U!
Think of the map of the game as a scale. When you put a unit on your side, the scale tips into your favor. But the second that unit crosses into your opponents side, then they have the advantage if they can react to this. This is the Tower buffer.
THOSE NEFARIOUS TOWERS!
There are two ways to approach the tower. One, they are something you have to defend. Or two, they are there to defend you. I prefer the latter, since offense is greatly rewarded in this game. So what is the tower buffer? It's simple, when an opposing unit crosses to your side, they start getting pelted by arrows. They may even attack your tower! But this is ok. You want this, because it gives you unit advantage. If you drop a ranged unit behind your tower, then you're able to cost efficiently take out their unit and you end up having the elixir advantage on your side of things. Not only that, but because units tend to stop to attack, that means you can create a huge wave of units on your side, while their units died by crossing to your side. So use your tower offensively, that is, if it's full health don't be afraid to let your enemy attack it, even if it's with a prince or pekka. As long as you gain the advantage on units, then it's worth it.
SCALE BACK TO THAT SCALE.
This is all represented in what I like to call the 'Scale'. Think of a physical scale, evenly balanced, only moving when a unit is dropped on a side. If you have a unit on your side, your scale is heavier and thus stronger than the opposing side. If your opponent has a unit cross over to your scale, then you still have the advantage because of your tower. The trick to being able to overpower their side is to have them throw units at you, and for your units to overpower them and them spill over to their side.
For example, let's say they throw a giant. The second it hits your side, drop your units next to your tower so they have to walk up to the Giant, and don't put them close to the giant because they can counter with their own units behind the giant. The Giant will probably take a bit to take out, so you're growing elixir while your own units are attacking the giant, meaning when he goes down you can start an offense with your stack of units. Because a giant takes a while to take down, that means that you have time to still have elixir reserves to enforce your offense and overpower their tower and their reactions.
KNOWING YOUR OPPONENTS DECK
It's also important to try and 'count' your opponents deck. Each deck has 8 cards, and in a match you tend to use each card once. Low costs let you cycle faster, high costs can be a bit harder to predict but can prove advantageous. Either way, knowing what your opponent can drop can help you tip the scale of power. If they just used a fireball, chances are they can't react with another fireball immediately unless they have a mirror. Dropping your Barbarians right after a fireball can be better than blindly dropping them even in a defensive position. Sometimes you can try baiting card drops, IE you have a Knight+Musketeer combo you want to use, but dropping your goblins and skeletons might scare him into using a fireball.
Knowing the costs of cards is important to in reacting. If they drop a PEKKA behind their castle, then you know they just used 7 elixir and only have 3-4 elixir to react, or if they dropped a Golem then they just used 9 elixir and are open to attack. Keeping mental note of values is helpful in knowing when to counter attack and where. Dragon And Prince is 9 elixir, Skele Giant and Musketeer is 10, etc. If you know you have a response ready for when those units come to your side, then dropping a Prince on the opposing side can effectively win you the game.
OPENING MOVES AND Y O U!
This is the deck part of the strategy. There are various decks. Low, high, mid cost, hut decks, giant decks, zerg decks, either way what kind of deck you have will determined your opening move, and to an essence what cards you have in your starting hand. If you have the Elixir card, usually you want to drop that immediately and drop it in front of your castle. The first reason is because you want it to start producing elixir immediately. The 2nd, if they make a mistake in a fireball or Rocket, they might end up hitting your castle, thus activating its defenses and passively making your towers stronger because it aims that far.
For hut decks, opening with a barbarian Hut is common, but you might want to wait until you have a goblin hut out to make the most of it. Hut decks run counter to a reactionary deck, in that it's always attacking one side, and it can build up if your opponent is playing reactionary. In essence-Hut decks counter reactionary players, and reactionary players have to play offensively to counter a hut deck even if it seems disadvantageous.
As for other Card openings, dropping a fat slow unit behind your castle when you get close to 10 elixir lets you remain defensive while telling an opponent "I have this here, are you going to react to it?". So let's say we drop a PEKKA that will go down the right side. Your opponent will either save cards to stop him, or immediately attack your other side, in which case you can still reaction and put him at a disadvantage. But it also gives you time to build elixir as the PEKKA travels down, and once it reaches the river crossing you can drop heavy support on it OR pull a fast one and attack the opposite lane at the same time, and this can cause your opponent to make mistakes trying to stop both or try and all in that PEKKA, giving a free opportunity to take a tower. This type of strat can be used mid game also, dropping a slow unit behind your castle 1 minute in can be advantageous because by then you know what your opponent has and can counter it, and it lets you create a ball of units.
CARDS AND DECK BUILDS
So let's look at deck builds. A deck with Golem or PEKKA needs to be supported by either The Elixir Generator, or low level cards like Goblins, Archers, Knight because you have to be able to react and support your PEKKA. Bomb Skeletons are powerful for their cost, able to wreck groups of barbarians if placed behind your pekka. Goblins can do work either at range or melee. Usually a fireball or arrows is necessary to be able to counter minions, since your anti air will be your weakest part.
Giants are good as meatshields, and common in mid-cost decks, but their effectiveness varies. Skeleton giants are good for having a big explosion at the end, and good at countering Pekkas or Barbarians because of that. Regular Giants are great if you can build a ball of units behind them, but because they're single minded they'll die fast if you can't defend it. Royal Giants..................we don't talk about them. Other mid-cost supporting cards are hog rider, Prince, Baby Dragon, Witch. All good for specific things, either gunning down a turret, creating a threat that can deal major damage, countering mass units, or creating units whilst having decent aoe spam. Witches can be treated like heavy units, in that you spawn them behind your castle so they can build up skeletons. Princes you want to use to counter assault a lane, baby dragons in conjunction with an air balloon can devastate a lane if your opponent isn't careful, and hog riders are good at diverting an opponents attention from another lane or doubling down on taking down a tower.
Low cost decks tend to be about the unit spam, capping out at barbarians or Giant, and having cards like Knight, bomb marauder, skeleton army, goblins and archers as well as minions. In conjunction with freeze or rage you can deal high damage extremely fast and unexpectedly.
Some staple cards are arrows and fireball. Able to counter low cost units immediately, at an area is great. Fireballs are good for the slightly heavier units, like Barbarians, huts, or towers. The lightning spell is also good to have for taking down towers or huts, or mid-cost units like Valkyrie/minipekka. The Zap spell is decent for stunning and at a low cost, it's also good at taking out skeletons or lower health units. It can also stun magma towers, resetting their damage gains.
Spell cards are useful in any situation. Freeze, Rage, and Poison are all great. Personally I'm favoring Poison right now, because it's a huge area of effect, it slows, and does damage while units are in it. Freeze is good in rush decks, or in combination with hog rider. Rage is good in decks where you can get a little mass of units going, but I don't see it as much. Lightning and Zap I mentioned above.
~~~
So that's it. Go out there and get trophies n' stuff!
For specific deck strats, post your deck and I'll give you a rough idea on what to open with/how to react/ and any suggestions.
OPENING OF THE GAME AND Y OU!!
So when you start a match, the most important thing is to look at your options, and wait. There are various openings depending on what type of deck you're running, but we'll get into that later. The first thing you want to do is wait. Save up your Elixir. Only react to an opponents move. If you're getting full to Elixir, try dropping a slow unit behind your main castle to buffer the time of your opponent dropping a card. This is also advantageous to you, I'll go into it. Now, your opponent my try to all in a lane or wait to drop units like you are. That's no problem, because if you drop a slow unit, you're maximizing on your elixir and your opponent isn't. If you react, you're maximizing on your elixir and your opponent is it. The only way to put yourself in a disadvantage is if you drop a unit to try and attack one of their towers. This tips the scale into their favor.
THE SCALE, TOWERS, AND YO U!
Think of the map of the game as a scale. When you put a unit on your side, the scale tips into your favor. But the second that unit crosses into your opponents side, then they have the advantage if they can react to this. This is the Tower buffer.
THOSE NEFARIOUS TOWERS!
There are two ways to approach the tower. One, they are something you have to defend. Or two, they are there to defend you. I prefer the latter, since offense is greatly rewarded in this game. So what is the tower buffer? It's simple, when an opposing unit crosses to your side, they start getting pelted by arrows. They may even attack your tower! But this is ok. You want this, because it gives you unit advantage. If you drop a ranged unit behind your tower, then you're able to cost efficiently take out their unit and you end up having the elixir advantage on your side of things. Not only that, but because units tend to stop to attack, that means you can create a huge wave of units on your side, while their units died by crossing to your side. So use your tower offensively, that is, if it's full health don't be afraid to let your enemy attack it, even if it's with a prince or pekka. As long as you gain the advantage on units, then it's worth it.
SCALE BACK TO THAT SCALE.
This is all represented in what I like to call the 'Scale'. Think of a physical scale, evenly balanced, only moving when a unit is dropped on a side. If you have a unit on your side, your scale is heavier and thus stronger than the opposing side. If your opponent has a unit cross over to your scale, then you still have the advantage because of your tower. The trick to being able to overpower their side is to have them throw units at you, and for your units to overpower them and them spill over to their side.
For example, let's say they throw a giant. The second it hits your side, drop your units next to your tower so they have to walk up to the Giant, and don't put them close to the giant because they can counter with their own units behind the giant. The Giant will probably take a bit to take out, so you're growing elixir while your own units are attacking the giant, meaning when he goes down you can start an offense with your stack of units. Because a giant takes a while to take down, that means that you have time to still have elixir reserves to enforce your offense and overpower their tower and their reactions.
KNOWING YOUR OPPONENTS DECK
It's also important to try and 'count' your opponents deck. Each deck has 8 cards, and in a match you tend to use each card once. Low costs let you cycle faster, high costs can be a bit harder to predict but can prove advantageous. Either way, knowing what your opponent can drop can help you tip the scale of power. If they just used a fireball, chances are they can't react with another fireball immediately unless they have a mirror. Dropping your Barbarians right after a fireball can be better than blindly dropping them even in a defensive position. Sometimes you can try baiting card drops, IE you have a Knight+Musketeer combo you want to use, but dropping your goblins and skeletons might scare him into using a fireball.
Knowing the costs of cards is important to in reacting. If they drop a PEKKA behind their castle, then you know they just used 7 elixir and only have 3-4 elixir to react, or if they dropped a Golem then they just used 9 elixir and are open to attack. Keeping mental note of values is helpful in knowing when to counter attack and where. Dragon And Prince is 9 elixir, Skele Giant and Musketeer is 10, etc. If you know you have a response ready for when those units come to your side, then dropping a Prince on the opposing side can effectively win you the game.
OPENING MOVES AND Y O U!
This is the deck part of the strategy. There are various decks. Low, high, mid cost, hut decks, giant decks, zerg decks, either way what kind of deck you have will determined your opening move, and to an essence what cards you have in your starting hand. If you have the Elixir card, usually you want to drop that immediately and drop it in front of your castle. The first reason is because you want it to start producing elixir immediately. The 2nd, if they make a mistake in a fireball or Rocket, they might end up hitting your castle, thus activating its defenses and passively making your towers stronger because it aims that far.
For hut decks, opening with a barbarian Hut is common, but you might want to wait until you have a goblin hut out to make the most of it. Hut decks run counter to a reactionary deck, in that it's always attacking one side, and it can build up if your opponent is playing reactionary. In essence-Hut decks counter reactionary players, and reactionary players have to play offensively to counter a hut deck even if it seems disadvantageous.
As for other Card openings, dropping a fat slow unit behind your castle when you get close to 10 elixir lets you remain defensive while telling an opponent "I have this here, are you going to react to it?". So let's say we drop a PEKKA that will go down the right side. Your opponent will either save cards to stop him, or immediately attack your other side, in which case you can still reaction and put him at a disadvantage. But it also gives you time to build elixir as the PEKKA travels down, and once it reaches the river crossing you can drop heavy support on it OR pull a fast one and attack the opposite lane at the same time, and this can cause your opponent to make mistakes trying to stop both or try and all in that PEKKA, giving a free opportunity to take a tower. This type of strat can be used mid game also, dropping a slow unit behind your castle 1 minute in can be advantageous because by then you know what your opponent has and can counter it, and it lets you create a ball of units.
CARDS AND DECK BUILDS
So let's look at deck builds. A deck with Golem or PEKKA needs to be supported by either The Elixir Generator, or low level cards like Goblins, Archers, Knight because you have to be able to react and support your PEKKA. Bomb Skeletons are powerful for their cost, able to wreck groups of barbarians if placed behind your pekka. Goblins can do work either at range or melee. Usually a fireball or arrows is necessary to be able to counter minions, since your anti air will be your weakest part.
Giants are good as meatshields, and common in mid-cost decks, but their effectiveness varies. Skeleton giants are good for having a big explosion at the end, and good at countering Pekkas or Barbarians because of that. Regular Giants are great if you can build a ball of units behind them, but because they're single minded they'll die fast if you can't defend it. Royal Giants..................we don't talk about them. Other mid-cost supporting cards are hog rider, Prince, Baby Dragon, Witch. All good for specific things, either gunning down a turret, creating a threat that can deal major damage, countering mass units, or creating units whilst having decent aoe spam. Witches can be treated like heavy units, in that you spawn them behind your castle so they can build up skeletons. Princes you want to use to counter assault a lane, baby dragons in conjunction with an air balloon can devastate a lane if your opponent isn't careful, and hog riders are good at diverting an opponents attention from another lane or doubling down on taking down a tower.
Low cost decks tend to be about the unit spam, capping out at barbarians or Giant, and having cards like Knight, bomb marauder, skeleton army, goblins and archers as well as minions. In conjunction with freeze or rage you can deal high damage extremely fast and unexpectedly.
Some staple cards are arrows and fireball. Able to counter low cost units immediately, at an area is great. Fireballs are good for the slightly heavier units, like Barbarians, huts, or towers. The lightning spell is also good to have for taking down towers or huts, or mid-cost units like Valkyrie/minipekka. The Zap spell is decent for stunning and at a low cost, it's also good at taking out skeletons or lower health units. It can also stun magma towers, resetting their damage gains.
Spell cards are useful in any situation. Freeze, Rage, and Poison are all great. Personally I'm favoring Poison right now, because it's a huge area of effect, it slows, and does damage while units are in it. Freeze is good in rush decks, or in combination with hog rider. Rage is good in decks where you can get a little mass of units going, but I don't see it as much. Lightning and Zap I mentioned above.
~~~
So that's it. Go out there and get trophies n' stuff!
For specific deck strats, post your deck and I'll give you a rough idea on what to open with/how to react/ and any suggestions.
Great post, thanks.
Baroquemantic
Member
Awesome post, Breezy!
BreezyLimbo
Banned
Giants are one of those cards that you have to 'buffer' with a support unit. Giant+Musketeer can right down wreck things, add in minions or a minion horde and you can clear a path to the enemy tower.
Incitemaybe
Member
Saw this thread earlier today and decided to download the game......I'm liking it a lot so far, very fun and has kept my interest 🌼
I haven't reached level three yet to join a Gaf clan.....but when I do, what should I think about when picking or joining one? Thanks!
I haven't reached level three yet to join a Gaf clan.....but when I do, what should I think about when picking or joining one? Thanks!
Clans area really just about giving and receiving cards. There's pretty much nothing else to them, so you shouldn't hesitate as long as you're cool with giving cards to get cards. I've always just joined random active ones. I think I'm in some Canadian one right now.
Incitemaybe
Member
Clans area really just about giving and receiving cards. There's pretty much nothing else to them, so you shouldn't hesitate as long as you're cool with giving cards to get cards. I've always just joined random active ones. I think I'm in some Canadian one right now.
So you can jump from clan to clan or be in multiple ones?
Yeah, that's how I always used it, but in the early game it's too expensive, and in the late game it gets taken out within seconds, Musketeer + Valkyrie are a better and more effective combo, if you send them out + skeleton army, they wreck towers very fast.
Let's be honest, there is one reason you favor using poison. kappa
More of DestinyGAF should play Clash
Nice write up! Definitely useful for people who may be struggling in matches.
Awesome post! Definitely some strategies in there that I had never considered, and am anxious to try out.
just one and there's a cooldown period of a few hours where you can't donate or request cards. i've just switched a couple times myself basically into higher-level ones so i could request and get rare cards
Incitemaybe
Member
Ah! I see...thank you! 🐉
Saucycarpdog
Member
Awesome post Breezy!
Can you give me an idea on the strategy with this. I'm obviously not doing something right in Arena 6 with it lol.
BreezyLimbo
Banned
Really depends on your starting hand. Placing a giant behind a castle, by the time it reaches the bridge you have 10 mana again and can combo it with a baby dragon+Other unit and it can be devastating.
Let's be honest, there is one reason you favor using poison. kappaMore of DestinyGAF should play Clash
Nice write up! Definitely useful for people who may be struggling in matches.
Yes, I love my poison @_@ And thanks~
Thanks~ I'll probably do a write up on the cards later on and specific strats/analysis on them..
Wolf Akela
Member
Pretty good. Bait arrows out by using Minion Horde or Skele Horde, then throw a barrel. Or vice versa.
I think it also pairs well with big push cards (eg golem, giant, etc) because they put a lot of pressure just by itself.
broz0rs
Member
it works really well with cannon heavy builds or if you're a defensive player. you make your opponent overreach with a big army, and use goblin barrels and hog rider to slowly chip away at the tower when they have limited elixir to spend on defending.
===========================
what do you guys do when someone goes full on starcraft mode? meaning they place cannon, bomber, tesla on their base and just turtle all day.
They've won me games in overtime, or forced overtime last second. They do a surprising amount of damage to towers if left unchecked.
Saucycarpdog
Member
Faced a tower deck recently and would like to know this as well. He spaced out his towers quite liberally so my rocket was all that effective.
Just hit Spell Valley/1500 trophies playing with my affectionately-named "Flying Pigs" deck that I crafted. I've been playing this lineup since about 750 trophies:
It's a stealthy quick-attack deck where the basic offensive play is built around a Hog Rider + Winged combo (hence the name). HR pairs up great with the Minions, Swarm, or Dragon. If he's not available, or you see an opening with your opponent, the Mini Pekka is a legit substitution with a Dragon or Swarm.
The Bomb Tower is a huge part of the deck, as that play helps extinguish any immediate counter-attacks (which come often since I don't have a tank in the deck). Barbarians, Goblins, and Valkryies get crushed in seconds and I even throw it as a distraction if there's an air swarm coming if you wait until your castle's defenses kick in.
Minions are my lowest elixir card and I often use as a utility play. They are a great throw when I already have enemies distracted by a Bomb Tower, and they also are a good play at the 50-yard line if there's a large land swarm coming.
The fireball also becomes a hugely important card for often finishing off a tower or fending a counter-attack if I don't have the Bomb Tower available. I rarely use the fireball to aid in offense strikes unless it's against a building.
Anyone else using a similar deck? It's treated me really well but takes some finesse to get used to because it's a quick-attack deck.
It's a stealthy quick-attack deck where the basic offensive play is built around a Hog Rider + Winged combo (hence the name). HR pairs up great with the Minions, Swarm, or Dragon. If he's not available, or you see an opening with your opponent, the Mini Pekka is a legit substitution with a Dragon or Swarm.
The Bomb Tower is a huge part of the deck, as that play helps extinguish any immediate counter-attacks (which come often since I don't have a tank in the deck). Barbarians, Goblins, and Valkryies get crushed in seconds and I even throw it as a distraction if there's an air swarm coming if you wait until your castle's defenses kick in.
Minions are my lowest elixir card and I often use as a utility play. They are a great throw when I already have enemies distracted by a Bomb Tower, and they also are a good play at the 50-yard line if there's a large land swarm coming.
The fireball also becomes a hugely important card for often finishing off a tower or fending a counter-attack if I don't have the Bomb Tower available. I rarely use the fireball to aid in offense strikes unless it's against a building.
Anyone else using a similar deck? It's treated me really well but takes some finesse to get used to because it's a quick-attack deck.
I'm in the "neogaf" clan and so far I don't think anyone's had issue getting the cards they want donated, some great charitable people around Trying to give back where I can, at the moment I'm trying to figure out what I might want to upgrade...
Trying to give back where I can, at the moment I'm trying to figure out what I might want to upgrade...My IRL friends joined some random clan but a lot of people in there are inactive so it's pointless. I left the clan for the new GAF clan. You only need the clan for donating activities so the bigger and the more active the clan, the better it is. Constant requests so you can donate is very important.
I'm in the "neogaf" clan and so far I don't think anyone's had issue getting the cards they want donated, some great charitable people around
It's not about charity. Actively donating benefits the donor as well since they get gold which is very important resource.
Even if I need a card, I would still donate it if I see a request. You can always request for it next and wait a bit more for the level up. Everyone in a clan needs to understand this as active requests and donations is a virtuous cycle that benefits everybody.
AbandonedTrolley
Member
Yep, very much so this, if I have the card it gets donated, as you say, can always request it on the next time around.
Great post, lots of useful tips. Currently in the NEOGAF clan with Vinny and having great fun, thanks for letting me join!
I can only speak to Arena 3 or so, but I find Rage at 3 Elixir cost a cheap way to overwhelm a lane with zoo type tactics. The damage output gets crazy and it's easy to generate unit advantage really fast. I just think the 3 Elixir cost makes it incredibly valuable.
IMO no epic is worth 2000g unless you're sure you want to build around it.
Epics are not necessary to be successful.
Rage is good in a Zerg deck, but it's one of the lesser used epics. I personally prefer freeze as it has more defensive utility.
Stephen_drewz
Member
Started playing on the weekend, currently level 5 and have breezed my way up to 800 cups but am now in a constant cycle of win a few and get close to 900, then get completely smashed 3-4 games in a row. Rinse repeat. Time to do some research I guess.
This is all awesome advice.
Here's what I'm currently working with. I tend to play defensively until I see an opening and I drop a prince or giant. So basically counter counter counter attack. Any advice?
My current deck is pretty awesome and I win nearly every game expect against tower decks. :-/
I have:
Witch (lvl 3)
Barb hut (lvl 5)
Spear Goblins (lvl 7)
Skeleton Army (lvl 2)
Minions (lvl 7)
Minion Horde (lvl 7)
Musketeer (lvl 4)
Baby Dragon (lvl 2)
Baby dragon is a nice bait for the beginning so I don't necessarily want to get rid of it in exchange for a fireball.
Any hints how to go against towers?
I have:
Witch (lvl 3)
Barb hut (lvl 5)
Spear Goblins (lvl 7)
Skeleton Army (lvl 2)
Minions (lvl 7)
Minion Horde (lvl 7)
Musketeer (lvl 4)
Baby Dragon (lvl 2)
Baby dragon is a nice bait for the beginning so I don't necessarily want to get rid of it in exchange for a fireball.
Any hints how to go against towers?