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[ElyrionX]

I looked around and seems like there isn't a GAF OT for rock climbing. There's an old one on bouldering but bouldering is only a small subset of the sport and that thread is pretty much dead so I thought it's a good time for this thread given the increasing popularity of the sport.

This OT is sparse on decor and info for now but I will probably spruce it up more if the thread takes off.

I started climbing about 3-4 months ago and have been at it at least once a week since. I do mainly indoors top-toping and some bouldering for now and want to work towards leading at some point. No outdoors for now due to lack of outdoor climbing locations in my country (Singapore) but I might do a trip in the near future. It's been great fun and the community as a whole has been really good.

Watching climbing competitions on youtube and watching skillful climbers IRL is pretty inspiring and I am working hard at improving my technique and form. I am making good progress but still need to work on improving my footwork and trusting my feet more.

So what's your experience been like so far, GAF?


Indoors vs Outdoors Climbing and Tips for Beginners

I highly suggest going to a gym for at least a month or so first. Gyms typically have classes to teach you the skills you'll need. For outdoor climbing, you'll need to know how to tie in, lead climb, lead belay (using an ATC is typically preferred for lead belaying), and you'll need at least one person in your group that you can rely on being able to clean the route (ideally more than one person can clean a route so you aren't SOL if they can't get to the top for whatever reason).

It's also expensive to get all the stuff that you'll need to climb outdoors, and maybe with your disposable income getting all of it at once is doable, but for most people acquiring the gear necessary for outdoor climbing over time makes more sense. Plus, I think you would have more fun climbing outdoors after building your skills up some first.

Edit: For indoor climbing, I suggest getting a chalk bag first since they're so cheap, after that, get a pair of shoes so you aren't using the gross used ones (I only started climbing without socks on after getting my own pair), then after that get a harness. If you want to belay for people and belay devices aren't provided at your gym, I suggest getting an ATC or a GriGri as soon as you can (and after you know how to properly use them). ATC's are much cheaper and are generally preferred for lead belaying, but GriGri's auto-lock, which makes them much more idiot proof, so make sure you really know your shit if you're going to use an ATC. Whatever gym you're climbing at should require you to test out first before you're belaying for people unsupervised anyway.

Another super late edit: GriGris are often preferred for top rope climbing because they're safer, but an ATC can also be used.

Jargons for Newbies!

Sport Climbing: Climbing with carabiners that are attached to bolts on a wall.

Trad Climbing: Climbing where all carabiners are attached to devices that you place in the wall yourself, and then take down in the same climb.

Bouldering: Climbing not too far off the ground (< 20 feet, generally). Usually done with "crash pads", or giant mattresses that keep a person from hurting themselves when they fall. "Spotters", or people who try to keep the climbers head from hitting rock or anything, are also frequently used.

5.xx: A climbing scale that is widely used in the US, named the Yosemite system, because of its place of origin. The 5 refers to the exposure level (not to be attempted without ropes), and the numbers after refer to the difficulty. Technically, it starts off at 5.1 and goes to 5.&#8734;, but it's an exponential scale.

• 
  5.1-5.5 are generally ignored, as they are pretty trivially easy for anyone with the slightest experience.
  5.6-5.9 are fairly easy and can be taken on without too too much effort, even by beginners.
  5.10-5.11 are moderate difficulty, meaning it'll take some work to get up them but it's doable if you put in the effort.
  5.12 is difficult, and will likely take you a while before you do your first 5.12.
  5.13 is very difficult, and it takes a monumental amount of training to be able to do consistently.
  5.14 is generally considered to be difficult enough that if you can do one, you are an "expert" at climbing. I know a few people who have done them, but it's way above my skill level.
  5.15 has only been done by a few climbers in the world, and not a single one without weeks or months of effort trying the route over and over again. (Margo Hayes just this year was the first woman to ever climb a 5.15(a), which is pretty fucking inspirational).

It is also subcategorized by a,b,c,d in the higher grades. a is the easiest and d the hardest of a particular grade.

Of course, this is just my opinion on the matter, but I think this is the view of the climbing community, with slight changes from person to person.

v1. v2, v3,... etc: The Hueco or "Vermin" scale. Named after John "Vermin" Sherman, a pioneer in bouldering. Similar to the Yosemite scale, it has no upper limit. Going from V0-V&#8734;, but realistically from V0-V17 currently. Rather than being exponential as the Yosemite scale is, it tends to be pretty linear, as there is no way to subclassify the scale.

• 
  V0-V2 aren't too difficult and can be done by most beginners with some amount of training.
  V3-V6 are moderately difficult.
  V7-V9 are very difficult, taking people a long while of hard training before doing.
  V10-V17 are increasing level of difficulty from hard as hell, up to what only a few climbers can do.

I'm probably highballing the difficulty, as I don't boulder too much. It's difficult for me to understand the difference between a V10 and V11 because I've never done either : p

Projecting: Trying a "project" climb over and over again until you either get the climb, give up, or run out of time. It is the only way to do what is at the upper limit of your skill. Generally a project is only considered completed when the person climbs from top to bottom without falling or taking a break on the rope.

I hope this helps for any beginners not understanding climber lingo.There's a lot more, which I may cover later, but this is just the lingo that I used in my post. Of course, as there is a culture that develops around climbing, so it can be kind of confusing for beginners. Nobody is going to be hard on you for not knowing terms though. I didn't know how to pronounce "Yosemite" until I mispronounced it in front of all my climber buddies when I was 15 : o

Resources!
Neil Gresham's Climbing Masterclass - Pretty much the default youtube channel that all climbing newbies should watch
Mani the Monkey - Lots of good videos and tips for beginners here

More to come!

 

[Fulminator]

I have actually been wanting to get into climbing

Dunno how big of a community there will be on GAF but any tips on getting started would be great

 

[M52B28]

I've fucked my shoulders up climbing. It's not a sport I'm interested in due to how strenuous it is on the body. It does provide a great workout.

I have quite a few collègues that climb fit recreation and sport. Cool stuff to watch.

 

[Ethelwulf]

Nice op! Subbed. I've been climbing for many years. Best sport ever.

 

[S-Wind]

I've been rock climbing for a little over 10 years. I started in the gym. A few months later I mentored under a "old school" tradster, from whom I learned all about trad climbing and multipitch climbing.

I now work in the industry.

Sport climbing and trad climbing are my preferred types of rock climbing. Bouldering does not interest me - I like to go higher than a few metres off of the ground.

Every year I go on several rock climbing road trips.

 

[S-Wind]

I have actually been wanting to get into climbing

Dunno how big of a community there will be on GAF but any tips on getting started would be great

Are there any climbing gyms in your area?

 

[ElyrionX]

I have actually been wanting to get into climbing

Dunno how big of a community there will be on GAF but any tips on getting started would be great

Most people get started at a local gym near them. Finding a friend to go with you would be ideal. You don't need gear as the gym would have equipment for rent though you'd want to buy your own gear asap if you think you will be doing this for a while. As for the basics, the gym would probably have staff who can teach you the basics but this may require you to sign up for a day-long course. It really depends on the gym. I'd suggest finding a local gym and calling them up to find out what the options are for a new climber.

 

[Fulminator]

Are there any climbing gyms in your area?

There's a rock climbing gym near me, but I'm more interested in outdoor climbing

I imagine you'd start with the rock wall and work your way up though ?

 

[ElyrionX]

There's a rock climbing gym near me, but I'm more interested in outdoor climbing

I imagine you'd start with the rock wall and work your way up though ?

Outdoors climbing is trickier. Try looking up social media platforms like FB to see if there are any regular climbing groups near you and ask if they are open to newcomers.

Edit: Also, you're going to need your own gear before going which might be tricky if you have no idea what to look for. I highly recommend making a trip or two to the indoor gym before you go outdoors.

 

[M52B28]

There's a rock climbing gym near me, but I'm more interested in outdoor climbing

I imagine you'd start with the rock wall and work your way up though ?

Indoor and outdoor climbing are two different worlds of climbing. Definitely start at a gym to get the basics.

 

[hao chi]

There's a rock climbing gym near me, but I'm more interested in outdoor climbing

I imagine you'd start with the rock wall and work your way up though ?

I highly suggest going to a gym for at least a month or so first. Gyms typically have classes to teach you the skills you'll need. For outdoor climbing, you'll need to know how to tie in, lead climb, lead belay (using an ATC is typically preferred for lead belaying), and you'll need at least one person in your group that you can rely on being able to clean the route (ideally more than one person can clean a route so you aren't SOL if they can't get to the top for whatever reason).

It's also expensive to get all the stuff that you'll need to climb outdoors, and maybe with your disposable income getting all of it at once is doable, but for most people acquiring the gear necessary for outdoor climbing over time makes more sense. Plus, I think you would have more fun climbing outdoors after building your skills up some first.

Edit: For indoor climbing, I suggest getting a chalk bag first since they're so cheap, after that, get a pair of shoes so you aren't using the gross used ones (I only started climbing without socks on after getting my own pair), then after that get a harness. If you want to belay for people and belay devices aren't provided at your gym, I suggest getting an ATC or a GriGri as soon as you can (and after you know how to properly use them). ATC's are much cheaper and are generally preferred for lead belaying, but GriGri's auto-lock, which makes them much more idiot proof, so make sure you really know your shit if you're going to use an ATC. Whatever gym you're climbing at should require you to test out first before you're belaying for people unsupervised anyway.

Another super late edit: GriGris are often preferred for top rope climbing because they're safer, but an ATC can also be used.

 

[ElyrionX]

I've fucked my shoulders up climbing. It's not a sport I'm interested in due to how strenuous it is on the body. It does provide a great workout.

I have quite a few collègues that climb fit recreation and sport. Cool stuff to watch.

What shoulder injury did you pick up? It is a strenuous sport but a lot of it is conditioning and it's not generally advised to do it too intensively when starting out.

 

[modernlifeisANDY]

Nice to see a climbing OT. I've climbed for years but haven't hit the gym in months since there isn't really one near me (south shore MA) - closest is 40 min away. I'm waiting for my savior to open up a big gym in my area since it'd make a killing.

Climbed 5.11a at my peak, bouldered V5.

Anyone in the MA area that's up for some outdoor climbing, PM me. I need to get on real rock - it's been a while since I've done anchor setting and I want to learn trad badly.

Subbed!

 

[Xe4]

Nice OT! Thanks. Haven't been climbing too much recently (busy with school and work) but I still go from time to time. I'm sure I could project a 5.12 without too much effort to get back into it, though that is a far cry from me projecting solid 5.13's a few years back.

I don't really boulder too much, as I much prefer sport (and some single pitch trad), but I can probably project a v5/6. My raw strength is pretty shit compared to my endurance.

I should really get back into it sometime...

Edit: I feel like this post has a lot of jargon, so I'll explain some terms to anyone who wants to know.

Sport Climbing: Climbing with carabiners that are attached to bolts on a wall.

Trad Climbing: Climbing where all carabiners are attached to devices that you place in the wall yourself, and then take down in the same climb.

Bouldering: Climbing not too far off the ground (< 20 feet, generally). Usually done with "crash pads", or giant mattresses that keep a person from hurting themselves when they fall. "Spotters", or people who try to keep the climbers head from hitting rock or anything, are also frequently used.

5.xx: A climbing scale that is widely used in the US, named the Yosemite system, because of its place of origin. The 5 refers to the exposure level (not to be attempted without ropes), and the numbers after refer to the difficulty. Technically, it starts off at 5.1 and goes to 5.&#8734;, but it's an exponential scale.

• 
  5.1-5.5 are generally ignored, as they are pretty trivially easy for anyone with the slightest experience.
  5.6-5.9 are fairly easy and can be taken on without too too much effort, even by beginners.
  5.10-5.11 are moderate difficulty, meaning it'll take some work to get up them but it's doable if you put in the effort.
  5.12 is difficult, and will likely take you a while before you do your first 5.12.
  5.13 is very difficult, and it takes a monumental amount of training to be able to do consistently.
  5.14 is generally considered to be difficult enough that if you can do one, you are an "expert" at climbing. I know a few people who have done them, but it's way above my skill level.
  5.15 has only been done by a few climbers in the world, and not a single one without weeks or months of effort trying the route over and over again. (Margo Hayes just this year was the first woman to ever climb a 5.15(a), which is pretty fucking inspirational).

It is also subcategorized by a,b,c,d in the higher grades. a is the easiest and d the hardest of a particular grade.

Of course, this is just my opinion on the matter, but I think this is the view of the climbing community, with slight changes from person to person.

v1. v2, v3,... etc: The Hueco or "Vermin" scale. Named after John "Vermin" Sherman, a pioneer in bouldering. Similar to the Yosemite scale, it has no upper limit. Going from V0-V&#8734;, but realistically from V0-V17 currently. Rather than being exponential as the Yosemite scale is, it tends to be pretty linear, as there is no way to subclassify the scale.

• 
  V0-V2 aren't too difficult and can be done by most beginners with some amount of training.
  V3-V6 are moderately difficult.
  V7-V9 are very difficult, taking people a long while of hard training before doing.
  V10-V17 are increasing level of difficulty from hard as hell, up to what only a few climbers can do.

I'm probably highballing the difficulty, as I don't boulder too much. It's difficult for me to understand the difference between a V10 and V11 because I've never done either : p

Projecting: Trying a "project" climb over and over again until you either get the climb, give up, or run out of time. It is the only way to do what is at the upper limit of your skill. Generally a project is only considered completed when the person climbs from top to bottom without falling or taking a break on the rope.

I hope this helps for any beginners not understanding climber lingo.There's a lot more, which I may cover later, but this is just the lingo that I used in my post. Of course, as there is a culture that develops around climbing, so it can be kind of confusing for beginners. Nobody is going to be hard on you for not knowing terms though. I didn't know how to pronounce "Yosemite" until I mispronounced it in front of all my climber buddies when I was 15 : o

 

[ElyrionX]

That's a great post Xe4. Will put it into the OT when I get home later. Was planning to beef up the OT eventually but looks like you guys are doing the job way earlier than I intended lol.

 

[Cindres]

I hit up my local bouldering place once a week, try to get on the ropes monthly. Only been out to do some proper outdoor climbing once for the first time this year but I'm hoping to get into that some more, girlfriend's parents, and Dad in particular, are pretty big climbers and always trying to get us to go out with them.

 

[Fulminator]

Outdoors climbing is trickier. Try looking up social media platforms like FB to see if there are any regular climbing groups near you and ask if they are open to newcomers.

Edit: Also, you're going to need your own gear before going which might be tricky if you have no idea what to look for. I highly recommend making a trip or two to the indoor gym before you go outdoors.

Indoor and outdoor climbing are two different worlds of climbing. Definitely start at a gym to get the basics.

I highly suggest going to a gym for at least a month or so first. Gyms typically have classes to teach you the skills you'll need. For outdoor climbing, you'll need to know how to tie in, lead climb, lead belay (using an ATC is typically preferred for lead belaying), and you'll need at least one person in your group that you can rely on being able to clean the route (ideally more than one person can clean a route so you aren't SOL if they can't get to the top for whatever reason).

It's also expensive to get all the stuff that you'll need to climb outdoors, and maybe with your disposable income getting all of it at once is doable, but for most people acquiring the gear necessary for outdoor climbing over time makes more sense. Plus, I think you would have more fun climbing outdoors after building your skills up some first.

Edit: For indoor climbing, I suggest getting a chalk bag first since they're so cheap, after that, get a pair of shoes so you aren't using the gross used ones (I only started climbing without socks on after getting my own pair), then after that get a harness. If you want to belay for people and belay devices aren't provided at your gym, I suggest getting an ATC or a GriGri as soon as you can (and after you know how to properly use them). ATC's are much cheaper and are generally preferred for lead belaying, but GriGri's auto-lock, which makes them much more idiot proof, so make sure you really know your shit if you're going to use an ATC. Whatever gym you're climbing at should require you to test out first before you're belaying for people unsupervised anyway.

Another super late edit: GriGris are often preferred for top rope climbing because they're safer, but an ATC can also be used.

Ok thanks a lot guys, I'm going to look into this gym and see if there are any climbing groups in my area and go from there.

 

[ElyrionX]

Updated the OP!!

 

[modernlifeisANDY]

Ok thanks a lot guys, I'm going to look into this gym and see if there are any climbing groups in my area and go from there.

Re: ATC v. gri-gri - I belayed for years using only an ATC, and it's perfectly safe when you pay attention. I prefer a gri-gri for top rope climbing, though - easier to lower your climber and it's nice to have that extra protection.

 

[M52B28]

What shoulder injury did you pick up? It is a strenuous sport but a lot of it is conditioning and it's not generally advised to do it too intensively when starting out.

I don't think it was due to climbing alone, but I nearly tore my rotator cuffs through and through. I used to do lots of weight lifting, so that did me in, too.

 

[strang]

I've been climbing for going on 15 years now, mostly bouldering. Unfortunately not much outdoor bouldering near where I live but I try to get out as much as I can, and I do competitive bouldering as well.

Happy to answer any questions if people have them.

 

[Finn of Ooo]

Cool thread, been climbing about 8 years and I'm stuck at a plateau between V6 and V7. Don't know what I have to do to get past it. I can flash nearly any 6 I come across but I can only get the easiest of 7s.

 

[strang]

Cool thread, been climbing about 8 years and I'm stuck at a plateau between V6 and V7. Don't know what I have to do to get past it. I can flash nearly any 6 I come across but I can only get the easiest of 7s.

Sounds like it's time to hit the hangboard.

 

[Finn of Ooo]

Sounds like it's time to hit the hangboard.

Man I've been doing hangboard routines, weighted pull-ups, finger curls with 135lbs, one arms, core workouts. I just cannot break this plateau &#128557;

 

[bennywhatever]

Took a rock climbing class in college and did a 5.10 in Illinois. One of the most mentally challenging things I've done in my life. Loved every minute of it, but it's a hobby that's hard to get into around here in the midwest. Basically limited to indoor climbing gyms, which is too expensive for my taste.

 

[Babalu.]

i started indoor rock climbing (top rope) in february. Ive been trying to go weekly since then. Its so fun and such a good workout.

My first time i could only do 7s and would only make it 3/4 to the top on 8s and get stuck. But every time i'de go back i would do a little better and make progress. I'm doing 11a routes now but have to take a break before reaching the top.

I go to sender one in santa ana and sometimes sender one LAX.

Shits expensive though. $31 each time.

Ive taken about 3 first dates there by using the groupon beginner class voucher. Chicks seem to always be down to climb and i'm always looking for people to go with.

I can only flash about most 10c routes. I'm hoping to get into lead climbing next year. I'm still not where i want to be athletically or weightwise. I started climbing when i was about 250lbs. I'm at 195 now and dropping and its just getting easier and easier haha.

But its really about technique. Im strong and sometimes just overpower routes uneffeciently when i really gotta look up how to get better techniques down so i dont blow my arms out so fast.

Bouldering is fun too but i'm afraid of heights or more specifically falling so i hate having to climb down or jump down.

 

[strang]

Man I've been doing hangboard routines, weighted pull-ups, finger curls with 135lbs, one arms, core workouts. I just cannot break this plateau &#128557;

What's your hangboard routine like?

Anyway, it's definitely odd if you can flash V6 but can't do hardly any V7s. If you're talking about outdoor grades, what area do you mostly climb in?

 

[bennywhatever]

Ive taken about 3 first dates there by using the groupon beginner class voucher. Chicks seem to always be down to climb and i'm always looking for people to go with.

True story, my wife and I's first date was to a rock climbing gym. Friend of our's too. I think it's awesome you said this.

 

[Finn of Ooo]

What's your hangboard routine like?

Anyway, it's definitely odd if you can flash V6 but can't do hardly any V7s. If you're talking about outdoor grades, what area do you mostly climb in?

Mostly one arm lock offs on the smallest holds I can do for ~6 seconds. So dead hang, 90 degrees, then fully locked off. I'm in Florida so it's mostly gym climbing, I can only make it outdoors a couple times a year if I'm lucky.

Honestly my gym is a big part of the problem, the grading is inconsistent, there are weeks where I have nothing to project and I'm just stuck training.

 

[strang]

Mostly one arm lock offs on the smallest holds I can do for ~6 seconds. So dead hang, 90 degrees, then fully locked off. I'm in Florida so it's mostly gym climbing, I can only make it outdoors a couple times a year if I'm lucky.

Honestly my gym is a big part of the problem, the grading is inconsistent, there are weeks where I have nothing to project and I'm just stuck training.

Yea, that sucks about the gym setting, super de-motivating.

If you want to try a different hangboard routine, try doing hangs on a larger edge (maybe one pad to ~half pad) and adding weight with a harness or weight belt. There's not much research on climbing training, but the little there is suggests this is the better approach. Then vary your grip (open, half-crimp, pinch, etc.) instead of your arm position.

 

[hao chi]

I'm flattered to have my post included in the OP! I would have been a bit more detailed if I knew it'd be added though, haha (I'm not trying to complain at all, btw, I'm genuinely flattered).

I haven't actually been able to climb since January, but after I get back from a vacation in early July I plan on getting a membership to a gym. The downside is it's 50-60 minutes away from my apartment, but from there I believe it's about 20 minutes from my work, so my plan is to go climbing at least a few times a week before work, and then once or twice on weekends.

Ive taken about 3 first dates there by using the groupon beginner class voucher. Chicks seem to always be down to climb and i'm always looking for people to go with.

I've actually thought about this, and it seemed like it'd be a good first date idea. I wouldn't in my case though, since having a ~60 minute drive each way could be awkward on a first date unless I really hit it off with them right away.

 

[Xe4]

Re: ATC v. gri-gri - I belayed for years using only an ATC, and it's perfectly safe when you pay attention. I prefer a gri-gri for top rope climbing, though - easier to lower your climber and it's nice to have that extra protection.

I used to always lead with an ATC, but I changed to Gri-Gri a few years back. It's safer, especially in an emergency if for whatever reason you can't get your hands in the locking position. It's pretty easy to give slack too, just flip the roe over and push your thumb against the locking mechanism. In a lot of ways, it's quicker than giving slack using an ATC.

Though, for a beginner, I always teach on an ATC. Its so they don't come to be over reliant on the locking mechanism. So any beginners should definitely get an ATC first, they're a lot cheaper too!

 

[captscience]

Happy to see this thread!

Started climbing two years ago here in NYC. I almost only boulder and climb v5ish. It's tough to get outside over here but I'm hoping to do a lot more of it soon!

Red Bull looks to be streaming a bunch of the Reel Rock videos for free. They're excellent: https://www.redbull.tv/show/AP-1MD65N6X92111/reel-rock

 

[y2dvd]

Perfect! I just started climbing 2 weeks ago and enjoy it a lot. I signed up for a 3 month membership since there was a special. I can definitely see myself extending it.

 

[strang]

Just to get some discussion going, does anyone have outdoor projects this summer?

I don't have much time in Squamish this summer, but I'm hoping to put some time into The Method, a really cool technical boulder problem with bad footholds. I spent a few hours on it a couple years ago and did the first crux move, so hopefully I can make some more progress this year.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlAexWZF7TI

 

[ElyrionX]

Perfect! I just started climbing 2 weeks ago and enjoy it a lot. I signed up for a 3 month membership since there was a special. I can definitely see myself extending it.

Great! Do check out the youtube channels I posted in the OP. They will help you a lot. It's important to get the techniques and basics right from the start.

 

[hao chi]

Out of curiosity, do any of you do yoga to help you with climbing? The gym I'm going to get a membership at soon does yoga lessons geared towards helping you with climbing on Saturdays. I do yoga occasionally with lessons on YouTube, but I've never done climbing yoga, so I'm curious how it's different.

 

[strang]

Out of curiosity, do any of you do yoga to help you with climbing? The gym I'm going to get a membership at soon does yoga lessons geared towards helping you with climbing on Saturdays. I do yoga occasionally with lessons on YouTube, but I've never done climbing yoga, so I'm curious how it's different.

It certainly won't hurt, it'll help with flexibility which can help with plenty of routes/problems. But it probably won't make you climb a grade harder or anything.

 

[hao chi]

It certainly won't hurt, it'll help with flexibility which can help with plenty of routes/problems. But it probably won't make you climb a grade harder or anything.

Yeah, I don't anticipate it making a very noticeable difference. I'm guessing it will be like normal yoga and help with core strength, balance, and flexibility, which would have benefits for climbing, but strength and especially technique are more useful.

The first lesson is free with their memberships, so I have no reason not to try it.

 

[ElyrionX]

Just went climbing today with a new pair of shoes. I got the La Sportiva Solution which is a big upgrade over my old pair of Mad Rock Drifters. The thing is, I downsized a little from my previous pair (which were tight but never painful, not even when new) and my feet hurts when using the new pair and it's affecting my climbing. I am definitely pulling more with my arms. Plus, the Solution has a big downturn at the front and I find that I need to approach footholds differently when compared to my old shoes which were flat and stiffer.

Any advice or experiences to share, anyone?

 

[modernlifeisANDY]

Just went climbing today with a new pair of shoes. I got the La Sportiva Solution which is a big upgrade over my old pair of Mad Rock Drifters. The thing is, I downsized a little from my previous pair (which were tight but never painful, not even when new) and my feet hurts when using the new pair and it's affecting my climbing. I am definitely pulling more with my arms. Plus, the Solution has a big downturn at the front and I find that I need to approach footholds differently when compared to my old shoes which were flat and stiffer.

Any advice or experiences to share, anyone?

I can only speak to my own experience. I've heard about the aggressive downturn on the Solutions but haven't worn them personally. I had a similar adjustment period with my shoes - I went from a pair of super simple Mad Rocks sized for my street shoe, to a 1.5 downsized pair of 5.10 Anasazis. It hurt for weeks, and I would rip them off after every climb.

Eventually, though, they broke in. It definitely forces you to change your climbing a bit, but you will adjust.

 

[phazedplasma]

Out of curiosity, do any of you do yoga to help you with climbing? The gym I'm going to get a membership at soon does yoga lessons geared towards helping you with climbing on Saturdays. I do yoga occasionally with lessons on YouTube, but I've never done climbing yoga, so I'm curious how it's different.

yoga kinda helps with everything imo, not just climbing.

Been climbing for around 12 years now. Was a lot more serious before I moved to CO and started mountain biking all the time.

Finally in striking distance of the Grand Tetons though.

 

[strang]

Just went climbing today with a new pair of shoes. I got the La Sportiva Solution which is a big upgrade over my old pair of Mad Rock Drifters. The thing is, I downsized a little from my previous pair (which were tight but never painful, not even when new) and my feet hurts when using the new pair and it's affecting my climbing. I am definitely pulling more with my arms. Plus, the Solution has a big downturn at the front and I find that I need to approach footholds differently when compared to my old shoes which were flat and stiffer.

Any advice or experiences to share, anyone?

I've been wearing the Solutions for a while now, they'll break in but they don't stretch much, so if you bought them from somewhere with a good return policy I'd think about exchanging them. Go up a half size at a time and see how they feel.

As for the downturn, you'll get used to it. A more comfortable size will help, but you can also focus on placing your big toe on footholds.

 

[ElyrionX]

I've been wearing the Solutions for a while now, they'll break in but they don't stretch much, so if you bought them from somewhere with a good return policy I'd think about exchanging them. Go up a half size at a time and see how they feel.

As for the downturn, you'll get used to it. A more comfortable size will help, but you can also focus on placing your big toe on footholds.

I can't return them. Local shops here don't take back used goods. And I don't think I downsized much so I definitely think I can get used to it.

Anyway I went climbing again today and it was much better. I felt quite a lot more comfortable and while it was still painful, it did not really affect my climb much. I definitely feel stronger on small footholds but slabby holds are kind of tricky as are situations which call for aggressive smearing.

 

[MrOogieBoogie]

I live in NYC and the climbing community here is expanding at a rapid pace. Off the top of my head there are like 7-8 gyms that are all worth visiting. Since I work at one of them I get to climb at every gym for free.

I took up bouldering as a sport and fitness activity in February of last year. I love it as it comes pretty naturally to me--someone already with a strong base in calisthenics and body movements. It's not my absolute MAIN workout. I combine it with weightlifting and running and hiking so that I'm a strong all-around athlete. Every gym is different, but at my gym I can comfortably climb V4s and V5s, with a sprinkling of 6s here and there. Only ever managed one V7. But again, every gym is different.

I need to do more outdoor climbing for sure.

 

[captscience]

I live in NYC and the climbing community here is expanding at a rapid pace. Off the top of my head there are like 7-8 gyms that are all worth visiting. Since I work at one of them I get to climb at every gym for free.

What gym do you go to? I'm a regular at the original BKB and climb close to your level.

 

[MrOogieBoogie]

I mostly climb at The Cliffs. In fact, I trek up to their location in Westchester every now and again for a change of pace.

 

[captscience]

I mostly climb at The Cliffs. In fact, I trek up to their location in Westchester every now and again for a change of pace.

Ah, cool. Have you been up to Ice Pond? Nice little outdoor area only 30 minutes or so north of Cliffs Valhalla. I had a quite a bit of fun there a month or so ago.

 

[MrOogieBoogie]

That's Brewster, NY, right? Haven't climbed there, but thanks for the suggestion.

 

[captscience]

That's Brewster, NY, right? Haven't climbed there, but thanks for the suggestion.

Yup. There's not a ton of info out there about it unfortunately. I found a few Reddit posts and watched a handful of youtube videos but I ended up making up a bunch of problems with my friends. Still it's a nice alternative to the Gunks that isn't quite as much of a schlep.