ShariaBear's Guide to How to Take a Photo:
Let's dance....
All right, promised I would shed a few of my techniques about how to take a decent looking photo. Couple things I want to get out the way first:
- Everyone has their own style.
- Not all angles work.
- Lighting is everything.
- If your color doesn't pop, photo failed.
- Watch your reflections.
- Some cars are just NOT photogenic.
1:
Everyone has their own style: You need to decide what kind of photo you're going to take: Realistic, or Game. Some people take excellent photos that are realistic, and some people take excellent photos that remind you that it's a game. In my opinion, they're both equally as important. Myself, I started as taking sub-par "game" style photos, but I found my niche in taking realistic shots. You need to make this choice moving forward...BEFORE starting the photo process.
I'll be focusing on realistic photo shots and using older pictures to illustrate points moving forward.
2:
Not all angles work: Just because it's a great looking vehicle doesn't mean it'll translate into a great picture from the rear driver's side tail light. Case in point:
Garbage. Yes, it dominated the field....and it IS one of the best cars ever crafted....but that shot is completely garbage. Finding the angle to photo you car from is completely relevant to the course you choose. In my experience, if you want an awkward angle, make sure the course/car compliment that angle to make it a great shot....and not just an upside down photo. >_< I try to incorporate SOME part of the course into the shot and not simply relying on the car itself to make the picture. That's a problem I struggled with at first. Here's an awkward angle that WORKS with the background and the car itself.
3:
Lighting is everything: This is the absolute most important part of my photo capturing. Bad lighting can kill a perfect angle. Thanks to the bloom in this game, finding the right lighting can be a real hassle. Some courses are just NOT playing fair in terms of lighting. The ground glows, the signs glow, metal pieces glow, and sometimes the reflective housing in the headlamps glow. It all leads to an unbelievable picture. So, this is where careful color selection comes into play. Take time selecting the right color for the vehicle. Your favorite color may not work well with the time of day on a track. In my experience, reds don't translate well on daytime tracks. Just like blacks come out flat on tracks with a sunrise.
Lighting works in conjunction with angle, car color, and reflections. All of it has to come together to get that realistic feel. It's trial and error, unfortunately, until you just *click* with what colors work on each course setting. Like, I'd never use a white car on Silverstone. The ground glows too much, there's too much bloom, and the shading I'm going to need to make it realistic is going to be offset by the color of the ground. It'll ultimately look flat.
You'll know when you find the right angle for lighting....because the car will have little to no sunspots, will reflect crystal clear, bloom will be at a minimum, and you'll have plenty of room to play with color temperature, exposure, vignette, and sepia.
4:
If your color doesn't pop, photo failed: I mean, no other way to put it. Your color needs to be spot on. It needs to instill the flavor of what the car is. Whether it's a slightly flat paint job because of the intense heat, or showroom clarity...the color needs to bleed out in just the right way. Again, this is completely dependent of what setting you choose to have the car race in (the track), the angle, and the time of day. No one wants to see a highly reflective paint job on Nurbugring GP. Just like no one wants to see a dull, lifeless paint job coming out of the warehouse on Benchmark.
This is the too glossy (amongst the other 100 or so problems) for the track:
This is much more believable:
5:
Watch your reflections! - So, yea, reflections. We all drool over them. They make the car look showroom new and our pants slightly tighter. So you've got your lighting, you've picked out the right track, selected the color that works, found your angle....and it's REALLY reflective. Ok, that's all good, but sometimes these reflections work against us as well if we're not paying attention to what's been reflected. These reflections should look natural...and not just a bunch of blurred out shapes.
Notice the mid line of the BMW. It's trying to reflect something.....but in the end it just looks fugly. Yes, these are still all my photos that I'm talking crap about. It may take some fine tuning of lowering the shot....or raising the shot so the sun reflects the course/object correctly, but in the end you're left with something more eye appealing such as this:
Notice the course beautifully reflected in the mid line of the ZR1. This is the desired effect of reflections on the vehicle itself....if the shot calls for it. Not all shots will be dependent on highly reflective surfaces. Especially older cars. The paint was just different back then.
6.
Some cars are just NOT photogenic: hate to admit it, but that Lamborghini Countach is just NOT a beautiful car.....from ANY angle. Sure, it's subjective, but some cars are going to need some real picky angles, lighting, and course selection to become realistic. Because even in real life, the car is a fucking design nightmare. Therefore, rather than become frustrated and spend nearly two hours on a single bigshot that captures the car correctly, it might be best to accept the reality of the situation and move on to a different project.
7.
Sliders: Of course, even if you have your angle, your working car color, your course, your time of day, your reflective surfaces, etc....it all comes down to your slider settings. First and foremost.....please make sure your television and computer monitor are properly calibrated. Otherwise you'll be altering your bigshots shot by shot to match from TV to monitor. A real hassle.
Meat and Potatoes:
- Contrast - above average contrast. This let's me adjust the shading a touch, though generally worthless. I usually toggle from 65 down to 58 depending on the shot.
- Exposure - Course dependent, but I toggle from 80 all the way down to 50 depending on the light source. I jack it up to 100, then slide down slowly until I have glass like clarity on the car and no overly bloomed bits of the shot.
- Color - works in conjunction with Sepia. Consider it a see-saw effect. Again, jacking color up to around 75-85 works best, then slowly applying our orange filter(Sepia) until intensity is toned down and realistic car/background color is achieved.
- Sepia - works in conjunction with Color. Have to be careful because this shit can easily tarnish an entire work of art. :/ But, it will help to make a realistic color temperature. I usually dibble anywhere from 25-35.
- Vignette - Style is completely up to you...i use the third option (the one that if too dark creates a white line through the middle of the picture). This helps tone down the intensity of the exposure and nets a more natural lighting effect. I don't add too much. Around 10-25.
- Brightness - I use this to add shading to the car as well. Too dark and the colors are too saturated. Too bright and it looks like you took white crayon to the entire picture. I usually stop darkening it right before the undercarriage turns completely black because i have a small color difference from my tv to my monitor. -__- Somewhere around 40-60.
Other options (Aperature, Focus, Shutter Speed) I haven't played around with much, so that's completely up to you. But, I've netted great results so far with these settings and knowledge. Of course, it always helps to have other forum members to get inspiration/advice from.
Such as rocksteady, G Rom, Op Ivy, Jube, etc. These guys are pros and you can learn a lot of little things that will take your photos from D-class....to S-class.
I'm no pro myself, but I'm very satisfied with my growth and shot selection. Hopefully this has helped at least ONE of you, and if there's any questions please ask!