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Forza 4 |OT| Where Porsche Are Driven
- Thread starter G Rom
- Start date
evil_as_skeletor
Member
Took this photo while messing around.
I liked it.
I liked it.
Without going into the details of fine-tuning individual gears, a final gear should generally be set to whatever the top speed of a track is at the end of the longest/fastest straight so you're just reaching the rev limiter in top gear at that point. There's exceptions, but you dont want to spend time hitting the limiter on a straight(losing a lot of time), nor do you want to be only 2/3's of the way through the powerband at the end of a straight.
Make adjustments to camber based on tire temperatures. You generally want the tires to be working from 180-210 degrees and with as little difference between outer and inner temps as possible, particularly at the front. Generally, you want to aim for a 10 degree difference maximum between the inner and outer contact patches of the tire. If the outer part of the tire is much hotter than the inner part, you need to run more negative camber. Adjust in -1/+1 intervals and then go out and do 2 laps to check the temperature. 1 to get the tires heated to the new settings and then 1 to make sure the car is still balanced. Sometimes changing the front camber individually from the rear(or vice versa) can cause balance problems so sometimes you'll get best results from changing them together.
Toe is something used to fine tune your turn-in. If your car is very hesitant to turn-in, a degree or two of positive toe at the front usually helps. Its easy to overdo it here, so keep changes to a minimum. And equally, if your car is very unstable on turn-in, a degree or two of negative toe can help.
Anti-roll bars are usually the first thing I go to when dealing with a car that understeers/oversteers. Often enough, I'm dealing with a rear end that likes to step out when holding a corner speed, so a slightly softer rear end usually helps calm things down. Sometimes, it helps to increase the front stiffness a bit too, if the front isn't quite sticking.
okay, not nearly as hardcore as some here and have not gotten the Expansion yet but...
Does anybody else wish that there was a way to choose one of your cars in your garage and select "generate event for this set up". Whereby you have the game give you a random SP event. Simliar to event list but randomly generated to quickly match the car you want to drive and that gives competetive events based on car/set up/class?
Does anybody else wish that there was a way to choose one of your cars in your garage and select "generate event for this set up". Whereby you have the game give you a random SP event. Simliar to event list but randomly generated to quickly match the car you want to drive and that gives competetive events based on car/set up/class?
evil_as_skeletor
Member
So set the individual gear ratios (to default FD) in a nice smooth/close feel, then adjust FD to suit straight? How far apart do I make the initial gear ratios, is there a good/optimal set of gear ratio numbers to go by?
Because it seems like a bit of a chicken/egg type thing...
So toe and camber are mutually exclusive? If I adjust camber, it should not affect my toe and vice versa?
I see a lot of base tunes at 0.9 degrees for F and R camber, then adjust for mid corner?
And so toe will fix a twitchy front end or sluggish turn in; but what about rear? Negligible?
This might need further breakdown for me...
Thanks heaps SS.
Perhaps I just need a bit of time and T&E...
And I love how Forza OT is made out of my title-proposals, so Post-Meta
CrudeDiatribe
Member
The default sequential is decent, though I usually make sixth 1.00 and adjust the rest (fifth to second fit with that.
Mutually exclusive implies you can have one but not the other. Instead they are independant, they affect different axis of the wheel.
I think 0.9 is too much as a default; 0.5 makes more sense to me. You adjust so that after a few laps around a non-oval course the tire temperatures are even. If the insides are too cold, you have too little, and if too hot, you have too much. Overall temperature is adjusted via tire pressure.
This might need further breakdown for me...
If the car is rolling through the corners, increase front and rear roll bar stiffness. If it is skittish, decrease stiffness.
If you have steady (midcorner) understeer, stiffen rear in relation to front (lower front a bit, raise rear by same amount). If you have steady oversteer, do the opposite.
I'm sure the free car in the June DLC pack will resolve this.
twinturbo2
butthurt Heat fan
Anyone read Jalopnik's review for the new Boxster S? I really hope that it shows up in Forza 4 in the future.
evil_as_skeletor
Member
So you kind of work backwards to forwards here? Even, smooth spacing between gears? I use manual and clutch and notice that certain times I get the over rev buzz on shifting. Should I be concentrating on my torque and hp rpms?
Durr, I'm a bit of a potato. I think I knew what I meant to say, but that wasn't it. Thank you for correcting me!
I understand the corellation between toe and camber I just fail to comprehend how I can distinguish which certain driving feelings are due to my setup of either component. So tuning camber can and will affect toe and vice versa? If I make a camber (0degrees on cornering) adjustment will I in turn need to tweak toe? Or is that only if I am not getting the turn in on entry etc?
This portion seems to be the easiest to govern (along with camber) and I think I have this sussed now. I have settled on 0.6F and 0.5R for my RX8, I've watched telemetry and I'm getting a lot of contact during turns. I've also got good tire temps after running a few. My race temp is between 86 and 98bar (185-200 fahrenheit).
This is the area I've next got to concentrate on. This and bound, rebound and spring rates...gulp! I notice if I lift off, my car will oversteer and if I get back and feather the throttle it only exacerbates this situation.
I ultimately want a car that I can accelerate hard out of turns without having to worry about losing grip and having to modulate throttle too much.
Thanks very much.
Ps. Could I perhaps send you my tune for one of you guys' perusal? Maybe offer some suggestions that way?
Pps. I'm not after a blistering leader board car, just something I enjoy driving.
Pppppps. I am mainly tuning for Catalunya GP, and am having difficulties (mainly oversteer under lift off and also gear selection on turn 16) in the two sections indicated here:
Shortt Sirket
Member
I am not the greatest tuner, but I have messed with all of these settings a LOT since the first Gran Turismo. I can try to help if you want to send me the car. I can at least run it a bit and make some modifications and you can tell me how they feel for you.
The spacing between gears really depends on the track. I dont tend to mess with them too much unless its a big deal in a certain corner where I'm in the wrong gear and its costing me too much time. I usually just adjust final drive ratio to match my top speed at the end of the longest straight and then the spacing between individual ratios goes up or down with it. I'd have to see exactly what you were trying acheive or what was going wrong with your case.
The overrev buzzing you get is normal to a tiny degree when using manual w/clutch, but you could also just be shifting too late and hitting the limiter the classic way. This doesn't necessarily mean your gears are wrong, but maybe that you need to shift an instant earlier. There's not many cars where you're looking for shift points that aren't just 'right before the limiter'. As a general rule, that sort of shifting is just fine.
No, they should be able to be adjusted independently without worrying about the other.Durr, I'm a bit of a potato. I think I knew what I meant to say, but that wasn't it. Thank you for correcting me!
I understand the corellation between toe and camber I just fail to comprehend how I can distinguish which certain driving feelings are due to my setup of either component. So tuning camber can and will affect toe and vice versa? If I make a camber (0degrees on cornering) adjustment will I in turn need to tweak toe? Or is that only if I am not getting the turn in on entry etc?
If you have turn-in problems, be it a lazy turn-in or a twitchy, unbalanced turn-in, then you look to mess around with toe, the front being the priority.
Camber is a matter of acheiving maximum grip so you're not going to notice a camber 'problem' most of the time, its just that by setting the camber properly, its an easy way to get more grip out of the car.
Like Crude said, overall temperature is mainly dictated by tire pressure(which looks good there), but with camber, you're looking for an even temperature across the contact patch. Again, general rule is to get it within 10 degrees from the outside to the inside. More than that and you likely aren't getting max grip.
I'm not sure what car you're using, but be aware some cars are just not 'tameable'. I've had cars where no matter how much I tried myself and no matter how many tunes I bought, nobody could really make the car drive how I like(I'm similar to you, I like a car that you can really get wild with the throttle). It might be the case with yours or it might not, just wanted to warn you.
Also, if your car's build is more power-orientated rather than grip-built, a bit of throttle control is just a necessary thing. Cant have your cake and eat it, too, for the most part.
Drugstore Cowboy very generously gifted me his spare Fanatec sequential and h-gate shifter set recently (thanks once again, Jack!), so here are my impressions in case anyone has them under consideration. Hope you find the comments useful.
A bit of background first. Ive been an avid clutchless paddle shifter ever since owning a MS FFB wheel with Forza 2, with a brief venture into clutched h-gate shifting using the Logitech G27 on Othergame 5. I found the h-gate on the G27 to be a sloppy mess though, with the imprecise shifts leading more to frustration than enjoyment. Until very recently Ive only ever played Forzas 2-4 using a FFB wheel/paddle combo, despite having a GT2 and Clubsport pedals (with a never-used clutch) for about a year. In the real world I drive manual company cars regularly for business purposes, but my current car has paddle shifters, and the one before that had sequential tiptronic.
Over to the Fanatecs:
Sequential Shifter:
Mounting with the supplied stainless steel chopsticks was an absolute breeze, and provided a much more stable base than I ever imagined they would. Shifts are tactile and precise with a noticeably loud microswitch click in both directions. Weirdly, the default setting is to push forward to upshift, and pull back for downshifts, the very opposite of what you would expect. This can be reversed in the Forza control menus, but reverting back to the wheel-mounted paddle shifters for whatever reason would then mean resetting the menu every time, which might quickly get annoying. A quick look inside the casing revealed that swapping the micro-switches over is a two-minute job, so the shifter now works as the God of motorsport intended.
Even moving from sequential paddles to clutchless shifting with a stick, the level of involvement is instantly dramatically increased. Shifting mid-corner is now a much greater challenge (especially in fat-tyred cars with heavy steering) due to having one hand momentarily off the wheel, and the sensation of single-handedly banging up and down through the gears is a lot more visceral than merely flicking paddles with your fingertips. Its hard to explain but you definitely feel like youve earned your lap a lot more using the sequential stick than with the paddles. An excellent upgrade.
H-Gate Shifter:
Again, mounting with the chopsticks was very straightforward, but the extra lateral energy that goes into shifting around the h-pattern (especially in the heat of battle) means that the unit can move around ever-so-slightly. It looks a lot worse than it feels (in fact, it feels great), and you should never have to look at the shifter during use anyway. Shifts always felt precise and predictable, but the first thing that struck me was the noise of the actual shifts themselves, consisting of a SERIOUSLY loud metal-on-plastic click as a spring-loaded ball-bearing engages into grooves in the housing. Its apparently a well-known issue and I know that Jack had tried several established YouTube mods with varying levels of success. I took the shifter apart and tried cutting one coil off the spring to release its tension slightly, and it worked an absolute treat. Theres still enough tension to engage the bearing in the grooves and locate the shifts accurately, but the action is now almost silent. If anyone is put off the Fanatec h-gate because of the noise, then rest assured there is a quick and easy fix that definitely works.
In use, the h-gate and clutch pedal add yet another dimension to Forza, far above and beyond the improvements already offered by the sequential shifter. The sense of reward in nailing a perfect shift, in getting the revs just right at the start of a race, in banging down through the gears attacking a hairpin at high speed, in heel-and-toe double-declutching its all brilliant. Absolutely brilliant. This is how driving games were meant to be played, and Im eternally grateful to Jack for presenting an opportunity that I might not otherwise have investigated. I was more than happy shifting the default way until I tried the stick shifters, and now I cant imagine ever going back to the paddles. It would be a definite downgrade. Id heartily recommend the shifter set to anyone with a Fanatec wheel and Clubsport pedal set. It really does complete the package.
Thanks again, Jack youre an absolute star, buddy!
A few other general notes:
The black rubberised finish of both units looks & feels great, and is very classy compared to the usual hard plastic you get on similar products. The sticks are very comfortable in use.
However, the way the PS/2 cable projects from the underside of each shifter is madness. Its very easily knocked (and potentially damaged) when getting in and out of the cockpit, and can actually get in the way of leg movement when operating the pedals, depending how your rig is set up and adjusted. It would have been far better to have the cable socket at the front of each shifter, projecting horizontally. This could be a simple mod if it turned out to be a real problem.
A bit of background first. Ive been an avid clutchless paddle shifter ever since owning a MS FFB wheel with Forza 2, with a brief venture into clutched h-gate shifting using the Logitech G27 on Othergame 5. I found the h-gate on the G27 to be a sloppy mess though, with the imprecise shifts leading more to frustration than enjoyment. Until very recently Ive only ever played Forzas 2-4 using a FFB wheel/paddle combo, despite having a GT2 and Clubsport pedals (with a never-used clutch) for about a year. In the real world I drive manual company cars regularly for business purposes, but my current car has paddle shifters, and the one before that had sequential tiptronic.
Over to the Fanatecs:
Sequential Shifter:
Mounting with the supplied stainless steel chopsticks was an absolute breeze, and provided a much more stable base than I ever imagined they would. Shifts are tactile and precise with a noticeably loud microswitch click in both directions. Weirdly, the default setting is to push forward to upshift, and pull back for downshifts, the very opposite of what you would expect. This can be reversed in the Forza control menus, but reverting back to the wheel-mounted paddle shifters for whatever reason would then mean resetting the menu every time, which might quickly get annoying. A quick look inside the casing revealed that swapping the micro-switches over is a two-minute job, so the shifter now works as the God of motorsport intended.
Even moving from sequential paddles to clutchless shifting with a stick, the level of involvement is instantly dramatically increased. Shifting mid-corner is now a much greater challenge (especially in fat-tyred cars with heavy steering) due to having one hand momentarily off the wheel, and the sensation of single-handedly banging up and down through the gears is a lot more visceral than merely flicking paddles with your fingertips. Its hard to explain but you definitely feel like youve earned your lap a lot more using the sequential stick than with the paddles. An excellent upgrade.
H-Gate Shifter:
Again, mounting with the chopsticks was very straightforward, but the extra lateral energy that goes into shifting around the h-pattern (especially in the heat of battle) means that the unit can move around ever-so-slightly. It looks a lot worse than it feels (in fact, it feels great), and you should never have to look at the shifter during use anyway. Shifts always felt precise and predictable, but the first thing that struck me was the noise of the actual shifts themselves, consisting of a SERIOUSLY loud metal-on-plastic click as a spring-loaded ball-bearing engages into grooves in the housing. Its apparently a well-known issue and I know that Jack had tried several established YouTube mods with varying levels of success. I took the shifter apart and tried cutting one coil off the spring to release its tension slightly, and it worked an absolute treat. Theres still enough tension to engage the bearing in the grooves and locate the shifts accurately, but the action is now almost silent. If anyone is put off the Fanatec h-gate because of the noise, then rest assured there is a quick and easy fix that definitely works.
In use, the h-gate and clutch pedal add yet another dimension to Forza, far above and beyond the improvements already offered by the sequential shifter. The sense of reward in nailing a perfect shift, in getting the revs just right at the start of a race, in banging down through the gears attacking a hairpin at high speed, in heel-and-toe double-declutching its all brilliant. Absolutely brilliant. This is how driving games were meant to be played, and Im eternally grateful to Jack for presenting an opportunity that I might not otherwise have investigated. I was more than happy shifting the default way until I tried the stick shifters, and now I cant imagine ever going back to the paddles. It would be a definite downgrade. Id heartily recommend the shifter set to anyone with a Fanatec wheel and Clubsport pedal set. It really does complete the package.
Thanks again, Jack youre an absolute star, buddy!
A few other general notes:
The black rubberised finish of both units looks & feels great, and is very classy compared to the usual hard plastic you get on similar products. The sticks are very comfortable in use.
However, the way the PS/2 cable projects from the underside of each shifter is madness. Its very easily knocked (and potentially damaged) when getting in and out of the cockpit, and can actually get in the way of leg movement when operating the pedals, depending how your rig is set up and adjusted. It would have been far better to have the cable socket at the front of each shifter, projecting horizontally. This could be a simple mod if it turned out to be a real problem.
soundscream
Member
Maybe its just my shifter but I found getting into 5th and 6th was a bit harder than it should have been.
CrudeDiatribe
Member
Yes, working backwards; progressively less adjustment as I go towards first.
1.00/1.11/1.25 (or 1.29?) jogs my memory a bit on gears 6/5/4.
Width of power bands on some cars was why I usually just tighten things up as above— too long in one gear at high speeds for many cars with a lot of drag. I don't worry about peak torque and power RPMs. I think people that do track-specific tunes will adjust some of the ratios to avoid awkward changes.
Camber might affect the effect of toe-in, but I adjust for tire temperatures first, then other things, so I don't know. If you feel your car is reluctant to turn in, you need some toe-in. If you feel like that car just isn't turning fast enough through a corner (assuming a correct entry speed), adjust the roll bars.
Those numbers match a lot of the cars I've done (the TransAm inspired ones are 0.6 or 0.7 front and 0.5 or 0.6 rear). Some have been more, a few have been less.
Lift off oversteer is a real thing. Typically affects mid- and rear-engined vehicles more though. I do not know how to tame it in a cars setup, but instead in cars susceptible to it, to really avoid trail-braking and instead have a later apex turn and throttle through the corner.
Like Seanspeed, there are cars I just don't like driving. I had an A-Class RX8 that I could never get right for me. Love the RX7. I also haven't liked the few 'leaderboard' tunes I've tried; so much of this is personal preference.
I largely leave the shock and spring settings alone, aside from lowering the car. I will adjust the F/R balance on some of the car's suspensions if I haven't put roll bars on and I need to tame understeer.
Here's a question on brakes: When Forza lists the brake balance as 50/50, is it really 50/50 or is it the factory setting and you're deviating from it? It's my impression that no car has a 50/50 brake balance, that you always want the fronts to lock first. The front brakes on every car from shitbox to supercar has beefier brakes at the front.
That might be another possible side-effect of the BB spring tension. 5 & 6 slide in very easily since the tension mod.
How is yours for noise?
U n i o n 0015
Member
Badned, one thing that has always fascinated me is how the cars are chosen for the game and for the DLC. Does T10 have an internal committee where they roundtable about what cars they want to put on the "build" list?
Any funny stories, like employees building their own cars to put in dev builds?
Any funny stories, like employees building their own cars to put in dev builds?
Hmmm..for the first time, i've been let down by a car's sound....the Porsche Carrera GT.
Was expecting something a little less civilized...
I still miss FM2's style of sounds. From FM3 onwards, the vehicle audio was beefed up for the stock, production cars from the get go (in the vein of NFS) while FM2 took a more realistic approach.
FM2's cars sounded quiet,tamed (as they should) when in stock form but turned into absolute beasts when upgraded.
Was expecting something a little less civilized...
I still miss FM2's style of sounds. From FM3 onwards, the vehicle audio was beefed up for the stock, production cars from the get go (in the vein of NFS) while FM2 took a more realistic approach.
FM2's cars sounded quiet,tamed (as they should) when in stock form but turned into absolute beasts when upgraded.
nismogrendel
Member
I like fast cars with a lot of grip, are there any certain cars in the Gaf garage I should check out?
I tried a few of the A class ones in a lobby the other night, it's hard for me to tell which cars are just A600 and which are A600 with good suspension setups.
I tried a few of the A class ones in a lobby the other night, it's hard for me to tell which cars are just A600 and which are A600 with good suspension setups.
All cars I put up in the Garage are typically built to handle well and to be competitive online.
I've got
A600 Ferrari 360 Modena - absolutely effortless to drive fast
B500 BMW Z8 - high power and no aero, but it actually handles quite well and the handling stats are not representative of how good it is, very good on brakes considering its weight and no aero
S700 Lambo Gallardo - very competitive and great handling
S700 Ferrari F40 - a bit more high-speed than the Gallardo but handles very predictably and goes well online at faster tracks
I dont have any fancy paintjobs for any of them if you're sifting through the Garage looking for them. Just keep an eye out for a simple, single-color paint and black wheels.
soundscream
Member
Loud, so loud I don't use it past midnight cause the old lady in the apartment beneath me most likely can hear it.
I'm 100% convinced that the noise is all down to over-aggressive spring tension in the bearing. If you can use a screwdriver you can do something about it. I had a head start from Drugstore Cowboy, who had already disassembled the bearing housing to expose the spring, but Googling the problem just now revealed another solution whereby the bearing assembly housing is sanded down by a few mm so that the bearing sits deeper, effectively reducing the compression necessary in the spring as the shifter is used.
Well worth attempting, and easily reversible if you don't like the silence..!
nismogrendel
Member
Nice I'll look for those. I normally work on D/C class tunes I'll upload a few tonight.
Anyone else enjoy D/C class racing? I like it much more than A+ classes
U n i o n 0015
Member
If you have the Porsche pack, try the 997 GT3RS. Holy cow, tons of grip even with all the assists off.
Amar, official thread title supplier since 2011 !
I thought it was appropriate to change it for the release.
I just looked at the rivals mode. There's around 6000 people in each Porsche event in the monthly channel. For comparison, the Venom one (which requires the May Top Gear Pack) has 25000 people in it. Obviously those can't be taken as sales number as you have to be gold and have posted a time to be counted, but it at least gives a rough idea.
BTW, the game is nearing on 2.4M people in the circuit leaderboard, last time I checked, it was slightly below 2M.
I warned you Saladine. The Carrera GT (or should I say, the Carerra GT) is the disappointment of the pack for me. I was expecting an amazing engine sound as well (NFS games nail its sound each time).
The surprise of the pack is by far the 997/2 GT2 RS though. I'm having so much fun with it in S Class races. It's very fast, has tons of grip and dat sound !
I thought it was appropriate to change it for the release.
I just looked at the rivals mode. There's around 6000 people in each Porsche event in the monthly channel. For comparison, the Venom one (which requires the May Top Gear Pack) has 25000 people in it. Obviously those can't be taken as sales number as you have to be gold and have posted a time to be counted, but it at least gives a rough idea.
BTW, the game is nearing on 2.4M people in the circuit leaderboard, last time I checked, it was slightly below 2M.
I warned you Saladine. The Carrera GT (or should I say, the Carerra GT) is the disappointment of the pack for me. I was expecting an amazing engine sound as well (NFS games nail its sound each time).
The surprise of the pack is by far the 997/2 GT2 RS though. I'm having so much fun with it in S Class races. It's very fast, has tons of grip and dat sound !
Amar, official thread title supplier since 2011 !
I thought it was appropriate to change it for the release.
I just looked at the rivals mode. There's around 6000 people in each Porsche event in the monthly channel. For comparison, the Venom one (which requires the May Top Gear Pack) has 25000 people in it. Obviously those can't be taken as sales number as you have to be gold and have posted a time to be counted, but it at least gives a rough idea.
BTW, the game is nearing on 2.4M people in the circuit leaderboard, last time I checked, it was slightly below 2M.
I warned you Saladine. The Carrera GT (or should I say, the Carerra GT) is the disappointment of the pack for me. I was expecting an amazing engine sound as well (NFS games nail its sound each time).
The surprise of the pack is by far the 997/2 GT2 RS though. I'm having so much fun with it in S Class races. It's very fast, has tons of grip and dat sound !
hows the 956 sound?
Talking of engine sounds: remember this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjdguZvTUOI&feature=youtube_gdata_player
THAT'S what I want FM5 to sound like.
Edit: Christ, I fucking love that promo.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjdguZvTUOI&feature=youtube_gdata_player
THAT'S what I want FM5 to sound like.
Edit: Christ, I fucking love that promo.
-MikePriester-
Member
Zonda sounds gorgeous.
For one who couldn't stand the stupid handling of Shift 1, is it worth me picking up Shift 2? (360 I'm talking) always hesitate after Shift 1.
For one who couldn't stand the stupid handling of Shift 1, is it worth me picking up Shift 2? (360 I'm talking) always hesitate after Shift 1.
no, its pretty similar.
100% yes, absolutely, especially for the five quid/bucks/groats you can bag it for now. Google some recommended settings, fire up a night race on SpaHurst and start fapping away.
There's plenty thrills in them thar hills.
The 962c sounds and looks great.
It finally is properly represented with accurate stock speed and livery. It makes me want to see even more Group C cars an more old race cars in general added, from before safety became the main concern and when speed was the only goal.
Give me Group C cars, Can-Am cars, pre-WWII race cars, etc...
Anyway :
It finally is properly represented with accurate stock speed and livery. It makes me want to see even more Group C cars an more old race cars in general added, from before safety became the main concern and when speed was the only goal.
Give me Group C cars, Can-Am cars, pre-WWII race cars, etc...
Anyway :
-MikePriester-
Member
Wow! That last shot is amazing Grom! The lighting, colour and contrast really make it. 'passionate' shot as well.
RE: Shift 2. Just started the download for the Shift 1 demo again to see if I can forgive it somehow, lots of people bang on about it and could do with some variety.
RE: Shift 2. Just started the download for the Shift 1 demo again to see if I can forgive it somehow, lots of people bang on about it and could do with some variety.
Big Takeover
Member
As much as I'm disappointed in the déjà vu car selection, finally seeing Porsches in FM4 is really exciting. It makes you realize how much they've been missed up until now.
I was gobsmacked when I first heard that. I played that video over and over..
if i remember correctly it only reached about 180mph in the first 3 games, does it now finally reach 210+?The 962c sounds and looks great.
It finally is properly represented with accurate stock speed and livery. It makes me want to see even more Group C cars an more old race cars in general added, from before safety became the main concern and when speed was the only goal.
Give me Group C cars, Can-Am cars, pre-WWII race cars, etc...
Spaceman Spiff
Member
I warned you Saladine. The Carrera GT (or should I say, the Carerra GT) is the disappointment of the pack for me. I was expecting an amazing engine sound as well (NFS games nail its sound each time).
The surprise of the pack is by far the 997/2 GT2 RS though. I'm having so much fun with it in S Class races. It's very fast, has tons of grip and dat sound !
Yeah the Porsche flat-sixes all sound superb. The 997 GT3 RS is my favorite; it's positively feral.
It's a shame Nick couldn't work the same magic with the CGT-- one of the very rare cars in FM4 that sounded more authentic in FM2/3. The model is excellent though, especially now with the moveable wing, and I just love the way it drives.
The Cinque? It does make a great noise, but as much as I hate to be "that guy," it sounds like a steroidal version of the 6.0 l V12 in the Zonda C12, and nothing like the 7.3 l M120 in the real car .
-Deadpool-
Member
My favourite toys from last night. Glorious.
My favourite toys from last night. Glorious.
Excellent picture. Gorgeous
evil_as_skeletor
Member
It's an A600 tune on the RX8 R3 that had around 260kW (350hp), I think it's at around 1100kg (2425lbs) and has race tyres maximum width in the rear.
To put it into perspective; it only reaches about 250-260kph (160mph) at the end of the Catalunya straight, so not exactly a handful.
I always go grip and weight over power, I just think its a more enjoyable car. I like out braking into corners and being able to overtake around the outside in bends rather than just ball-tearing down the straights.
Thanks for your tips guys, I might send the tune off to you guys for some suggestions if that's still ok.
soundscream
Member
Or Fanatec could release the damn clubsport shifter ( -_-)
Spaceman Spiff
Member
Now that Forzacentral is back up, does that mean BADNED will leave us out in the cold?
:'(
:'(
CrudeDiatribe
Member
Seanspeed and SarBear, sorry for ditching: my damn Xbox froze on the car selection screen and it wouldn't let me rejoin you.
Beat my time around Camino Extreme in the stock S638 Devon I had with my B500 930 Turbo. :lol
Beat my time around Camino Extreme in the stock S638 Devon I had with my B500 930 Turbo. :lol
Have they altered the internal design much?