If you really want a Micro, you might be able to find one for a good price on craiglist. I got one for $15 sans faceplate not too long ago. If you keep looking you're bound to have some good luck.
Thanks. I have never visited Craigslist before, but I will have a look. Was the one you got in good condition?
Yep! It had no faceplate so I got a couple on eBay but it was in terrific condition otherwise. What you want is to find people selling games and systems on there who don't know the value of what they're selling and are just trying to offload their stuff, and willing to negotiate on price. Since it's an unregulated listing site, just be careful meeting people in person to exchange goods. It's always good to try to meet people in a public and densely populated place if possible, like in a fast food restaurant or something.
Here's my GameBoy collection:
I live in the UK, so I won't be meeting anyone by the look of things. I have noticed a few on US page, but not sure if it works similar to eBay. What is the best way to find one through a search, as it goes by countries and cities?
Ah, I see. No, it works generally only as an in-person site. Is there no UK equivalent for craigslist?
I'm in Australia and I use Gumtree. You should try the UK site.I live in the UK, so I won't be meeting anyone by the look of things. I have noticed a few on US page, but not sure if it works similar to eBay. What is the best way to find one through a search, as it goes by countries and cities?
Not sure to be fair. The only site that works similar to my knowledge is, Gumtree.
I'm in Australia and I use Gumtree. You should try the UK site.
Tried it, but none up for sale ATM. Will keep an eye out for one.
Yeah, if you keep an eye on the site some should pop up at a low price I'd say. The site doesn't look to be super popular, though, so maybe a different site would be a better bet.
I have seen a few on Gumtree, with the best being one for £25. The bad thing is, it doesn't come with a charger, and the seller doesn't know if it still works.
I think it might be best to give it a miss.
Might be. You could still keep an eye out for the time being and see if something good pops up. A modded GBA is could definitely be pricier than a Micro, I think (unless it's cheaper to mod it yourself, maybe? I'm not sure about that). I think what it comes down to is which system's size and form factor you prefer. I ended up selling my Micro because it was so frickin' tiny it hurt my eyes to play on. So that might be worth considering, too. It looked super slick, but the screen and system itself were just ridiculously small.
I have heard many people say it depends on preference. I am preferably after something that is backlit unlike my SP 001. The modded GBA looks good, but not only are they more expensive; they are harder to get in the UK.
FWIW my own personal preference for playing backlit GBA is the OG DS Lite. I regularly play GBA games on it and the form factor and d-pad are terrific to me.
I was never a fan of the DSL d-pad to be honest. The OG fatty DS had the best one, if you ask me.
I was never a fan of the DSL d-pad to be honest. The OG fatty DS had the best one, if you ask me.
Any reason to use a GBC over an SP to play Game boy (color) games?
You just weren't on the lookout for it.Oh, okay. That makes sense, thank you. How noticeable is it? I have a DS Lite and 3DS and never noticed anything like this.
I'm not 100% on this because it's been a while, but I want to say Kirby Tilt 'n' Tumble doesn't really work because the cart is upside down. At least with a regular GBA, the cart still goes in the top.Any reason to use a GBC over an SP to play Game boy (color) games?
Definitely possible.I have a Ceramic White JP PSP-1000 from 2005 and it's ghosty as fuck. Did they also switch over to Samsung?
You just weren't on the lookout for it.
You tend to judge screens by relation with... other screens. That's why US and PAL PSP-1000 screens were regarded as ghosted as fuck, because japanese weren't lagging by comparison (japanese were sharp, US were samsung), same thing when from PSP-2000 to PSP-3000 some things changed. Same for the yellow tint DS screens people only noticed them because one screen had the tint and the other didn't, otherwise they'd have top fetch another console in order to compare it. I could go on.
Anyway, I do notice it, but that's because of the screens I tend to use and the importance I give to ghosting time. I wouldn't a few years ago, it's a case of paying up to get picky.
Panels take time to change and "stabilize" a color, so a huge ass transition like black (0,0,0) to white (255,255,255) or vice versa takes the longest to stabilize, hence you usually see no ghosting on grey-to-grey transitions (the name given to normal gradations) but will most definitely see it if big gradations are asked and stuff is going faster than the screen can keep up with. Your eyes and brain can get used to it and "filter it out" though.
If you had a screen for a DS/3DS with zero ghosting you'd notice. Thing is we don't.
EDIT: This is a ghosted to hell and back panel. You might also remember passive matrix LCD's from the 90's, it was impossible not to notice the ghosting.
That sounds like it's related to motion resolution, LCD's usually have it on the 300/350 lines range for a 1080p image (should be 1080 lines).Really interesting post, thank you. Not to get too off-topic, but I've always (well, for a while now, at least) felt like my eyes have trouble "tracking" movements like that in movies and TV shows especially, less so in games, so I wonder if that's related somehow.
That sounds like it's related to motion resolution, LCD's usually have it on the 300/350 lines range for a 1080p image (should be 1080 lines).
If not it's down to ghosting. Moving objects lack sharp detail on a ghosted panel, thing is everything LCD has ghosting so I'd have to suggest testing "that" against plasma (6 ms max ghosting time and usually full 1080 lines) or OLED (0-2 ms ghosting time but 300/350 lines of motion)
It might also be down to framerate, films are using 24 frames after all, did you see the Hobbit on the cinema at 48 fps?
You can also try engaging motion enhancements on sets that support them, Clear Motion set to high on Samsung 240 Hz LCD's (series 8 and 9) or impulse on Sony sets via strobing.
Only testing in order to scratch some possibilities off the list.
I have it. It's a solid puzzler, with pretty unique and interesting gameplay mechanics (beyond the tilt sensor gimmick.) Building and exploding the bomb blocks is very satisfying. I bought it full price at retail when it was new-ish and I felt I got my money's worth.Anyone ever played this:
Koro Koro Puzzle Happy Panechu!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Koro_Koro_Puzzle_Happy_Panechu!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXq_BAb3JEI
Only heard about it yesterday and thought it looked interesting.
So I've fixed an error of mine and got myself a micro finally. I will get a blue/black one of these days though!
I wish I could find one locally. I'm pretty distrusting of a lot of the online sellers on ebay and amazon too, but one of these days i'll just take the plunge. I'm mostly worried about screen condition on a lot of them.
I wish I could find one locally. I'm pretty distrusting of a lot of the online sellers on ebay and amazon too, but one of these days i'll just take the plunge. I'm mostly worried about screen condition on a lot of them.
It also came with both a glass and plastic lens, but the glass one didn't have any adhesive on it. Not sure what kind of glue would work best so I stuck with the plastic one for now which was pre-adhesed.
He sent me a roll of super thin double sided tape, so I used that for my glass lens.
Based on the pictures from Lee Chan's other items, it looks like the GBA backlight mod doesn't require soldering. The frontlight kid they sell has an extra wire attached to the screen, and that's what I see people soldering in how-to videos... but their backlight kit doesn't have that.
Are the pictures just not showing it, or is there now a solderless option?
Awesome, thanks a lot. I noticed the listing said only 3 remaining, so I bit the bullet.No soldering required for the kit I just got from him.
No soldering required for the kit I just got from him.
Is it easy to put together, and how much did it cost?
Pretty dang easy. The hardest part was trying to keep my fingerprints off the screen while installing it. here is where you can buy a screen and shell. I only payed $55 for mine so the price might go back down once he gets more in stock.
I'm also considering this because I think the Japanese Toys R Us midnight blue GBA is my holy grail. The motherboard in the auction is different from the one I was planning to mod, so I'd probably gut it and only use the shell.
I'm assuming the 32 and 40-pin motherboards are physically the same (same size and screw holes) besides where the screen's ribbon cable attaches.